(Part 2) Best measuring & layout products according to redditors
We found 1,295 Reddit comments discussing the best measuring & layout products. We ranked the 560 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
I would strongly suggest against most of those tools, especially that hand plane.
I'm sure the stone is fine but I can't vouch for it. I'd rather recommend wet sandpaper w/ rough to fine grits. And some compound for stropping. Initially, you can strop it on anything -- even cardboard.
That square is dumb as f and useless as f. Unless you're doing framing or construction. Yes, I bought one when I started out. I still kept it as an example of a stupid purchase. Get this instead or something similar. It won't be as accurate as a starrett, obviously, but more than enough for 99% of woodworking.
Coping saw...eh, buy whatever you want. They're decent and better ones cost significantly more.
Chisels....those chisels suck. They're made out of butter instead of steel. Get these instead.
As for hand plane, buy a No4 pre WWII stanley from ebay or you'll have to fork over some serious cash to get a lie nielsen or a veritas. Don't ever touch the new stanley shit.
So...sandpaper (buy them from wherever),
Stropping: $12ish
narex chisels $38 ish
empire square $11 ish
japanese handsaw $27 ish
Coping saw: $6 ish
About $94. Leaves you with a couple of bucks for sandpaper--maybe. Get em from home depot/lowes to get started. Be sure to finish off all cutting edge with stropping on the compound.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01018D7MS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483084707&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=measure+roller&dpPl=1&dpID=31a6cddgyaL&ref=plSrch
Let's look at some numbers then.
You need a cable tester, that's $370 for this, the bare minimum tester you can use.. The right tester is like $7k to buy, probably around $500 to rent for a week, so we're cutting corners.
Then, you need a spool of plenum cat6a. It makes no sense to use cat6, because you can't do 10g over it for any real distance. That's $275, again, the bare minimum you can buy.
Then, you need a tool set. $60, they're cheap, but you'll only use them once. I don't buy cheap tools, your company is less discerning.
Lets spec for 10 wall plates. 13.95 for keystones, $12 for wall plates, 10 mud rings for $85 because you need retrofits for existing construction for a section total of 110.95
Then you need a patch panel to punch all the cables down. That's 47.81 for the bare minimum. Make sure you punch it right the first time, because you'll get maybe 3 punches out of a port before you have to toss it.
You'll also need this $32 fish tape, and this pull string for 14.73
To hang the cable, you'll need these plus some zip ties and some screws to attach everything. Also, you'll need a couple rolls of plenum velcro to wrap cables and get everything tidy-ish. Let's be conservative here and call that $50 all told.
That's 950.49 before you've even paid taxes or shipping, but whatever, we've left off the biggest cost here.
Your Time
Now, let's assume you make 20 bucks an hour (it's probably more). You probably cost the company 30 bucks an hour with everything else they pay for to have you employed (again, it's probably more). You'll spend 15 hours to complete this project provided you work fast and don't make mistakes. That's two full workdays in fairy tale land where you're already good at this. So let's call it 20 hours of learning how to cable and making mistakes and actual cabling, plus say 2 hours to clean up the mess you'll make (there will be mess).
All told, it'll cost the company 1610.49 for this install.
100 bucks more than you were quoted to have a guy with zero experience to install a network that will be critical to business operations for years. Sounds like a deal!
I recommend going slow with hand tools. Buy them one or two at a time, and then learn to use, sharpen, and care for those before buying more. This will help you get the best stuff for you while spending as little as possible. Let your projects guide your tool purchases.
Amazon isn't a great place to buy hand tools. Most people shop at either Lee Valley, Lie-Nielsen, or eBay for planes, chisels, saws, rasps, etc. That said, there's a surprising amount of stuff you'll need that's not the tools themselves. Personally, I wouldn't want to saddle myself with an inferior tool just to use a gift certificate.
Anyways. Stuff you SHOULD buy on amazon:
Hand Tools
Clamps
Measuring/Marking
Sharpening Gear
Consumables
Safety Gear
No it isn't, it's inertia. Telling a 50 year old architect who's been using stupid US measurements for years to change units completely is difficult because you need him to do the complex conversions in his head that the article writer couldn't even do between centi and millimeters.
And the "Metric Maven" really doesn't understand how to use amazon. Bad article.
i used this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J3TLZQC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Placed it on cutting mat and used an Xacto to get little shapes.
Air brushed each layer.
paints: xv-88, tau ochre, and a brown lightly darker than the xv-88
Or you could just buy a real, self-leveling one for about $35.
https://www.amazon.com/Tacklife-SC-L01-50-Self-Leveling-Horizontal-Cross-Line/dp/B01N33JJ3R/ref=sxin_2_b2b_sx_ftd_qd?keywords=self+leveling+laser&pd_rd_i=B01N33JJ3R&pd_rd_r=ff7da6a5-c4b5-466e-932f-f1151ecae3d6&pd_rd_w=IgbHy&pd_rd_wg=HUoOl&pf_rd_p=96f4a28d-bbd4-4b1b-b36b-32fdf628e1b1&pf_rd_r=C1XHJF5E4S9Y5W3T90HB&qid=1568934347&sprefix=self+leveling+
If you decide to go the hand tool route, money and space are a lot less of a concern. Rather than throw out hypotheticals, I'll give you some examples of tools you can actually buy right now:
Panel saw. Yeah, 10 bucks. It's actually a nice saw too. The only issue is the teeth cannot be sharpened - but it's 10 bucks. Use this for breaking down big stock into smaller stock
Back Saw. Also 10 bucks. Same as above. Disposable but cheap and will last a long time (it's disposable because the teeth have been hardened). This is for precision cross cuts and cutting tenons.
Dovetail/fine joinery saw. 25 bucks plus a 3 dollar xx slim double taper saw file to make it not suck.
Now for some planes. These may seem kind of pricey for "broke" status, but these aren't POS-get-you-by planes. These are lifetime tools. To get something comparable new, you are looking at 150.00 to 300.00 a piece. You can get better deals by bidding on some planes, but these are all "buy it now"
Stanley #4. Needs some love but that's a good user for 30 bucks.
Stanley #5 for 42$
Stanley #7. 90 bucks.
Pick up a 4 dollar card scraper too.
Chisels
Narex $36. Use one of these and a block of wood to make yourself a router plane also.
Combination square 10 bucks.
A cordless drill of some sort and some bits (assuming you have one already)
70 bucks in 2x12's so you can make a knock down Nicholson style workbench which doesn't need vises. When you are done working, break it down and put it in the closet.
35 bucks for a pair of holdfasts from Gramercy
30 bucks worth of F style clamps from harbor freight will get you started there.
14 bucks to get sharp (not at all ideal but completely workable on a budget)
So for 410.00 or the price of a decent sander and miter saw, you can make literally anything in a small space with a small amount of localized dust. The trade off of course it time and labor.
Down the road you are definitely want to get some better saws, maybe some specialty planes, different chisels, some better measuring/marking equipment. But this will more than get you started.
At that distance they will likely be using their own rope/mule tape and only need a simple string to pull the rope in. Something like this or what I normally use as it's always on the truck anyway this.
There's a black on on Amazon for $15. It's not "contractor grad", but it's probably ok. Same brand. The red one is on Amazon, as well.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N33JJ3R/
$32 USD. Works great.
Were you using one of these?
I posted this in another thread asking similar things.
When you pull wire at a min you should pull two wires. Ideally you will pull 4-6 wires. You don't have to terminate all of them, you can leave service loop behind the wall or wherever. If I were to wire my house I would pull 4 Cat6a and 2 RG6 (coax) to every room (maybe two runs to each room). You can use one of the Cat6A for phone. The 2 coax allows for dish tv too.
I don't have my house wired because I use wireless network (Ubiquiti AP Pro) , wireless phone, and don't watch cable tv :)
http://www.ecmweb.com/content/basics-pulling-wire
https://www.homedepot.com/b/Electrical-Electrical-Tools-Wire-Conduit-Tools-Fish-Tape-Poles/N-5yc1vZbm7s
https://www.harborfreight.com/wire-running.html
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-6-500-ft-Pulling-Line-56110/100660172
https://www.lowes.com/pl/Fish-tape-poles-Electrical-testers-tools-Electrical/4294722452
https://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-430-500-Tracer-Green-500-Foot/dp/B001UKL6BG/ref=pd_sim_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KEVC38PW0T32VYWZDKP2
Edit: FYI I used to install IPTV for an ISP so I ran wire in all kinds of houses. Its not as hard as you may think once you start doing it.
Occer 12x25 Compact Binoculars... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N33JJ3R?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Link says binoculars but it’s the level.
Yes, when running in the ceiling (assuming normal drywall on joist ceiling), it will be monumentally easier to run cable in the ceiling on the short axis of the building (ie, in the joist bays). Anything that traverses the longer side will likely be easier in the basement or crawlspace. If you need to do runs perpendicular to the joists, then you will need to drill through the joists (IF you do this, PLEASE research and know what you are doing! Cutting in the wrong place or too big of a hole could cause serious structural issues! (Diagram of some restrictions, yours may differ)and conduit may be a good idea, but its certainly not required. Buy some poly line, and just run it with the wires. If, in the future, you need to pull more wires, you can tape some on the end and pull them through
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No need to avoid electrical wires, just dont run them in parallel for very far. In general, they should cross at a right angle, but if you dont follow this exactly, its usually not the end of the world
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Also, use Fireblock! Any opening that traverses floors should be fire foamed and sealed. The last thing you want to do is introduce life safety issues should you have a fire.
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Lastly, you forgot drywall tools (hawk/trowel, knives, texture in a can and mud). I ran a lot of ethernet through my new house when I first moved in. I cut a lot of holes and got really good at patching them seamlessly. Because no matter what you think now, if you want to do it right, you might need to open some walls.
Cheap acurite temp/humidity sensors. Use an rtl_sdr to capture the data and use rtl_433 software to decode it.
These
And
This
With this software
Incra t rule
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ECKOWQQ/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Flux is a good. If you go into the registry settings you can get your screen down below 1200K.
Best bet is to use blue blocking glasses. https://www.amazon.ca/Uvex-S1933X-Eyewear-SCT-Orange-Anti-Fog/dp/B000USRG90
Even better, blue/green blockers. https://www.amazon.ca/DEWALT-DW0714-Laser-Enhancement-Glasses/dp/B00093DJ4M
I've done business with Plaza Japan in the past, they have a good selection and low prices; you'll pay for shipping so best or order more than just one product to take advantage of that.
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Amazon isn't bad, just check the prices compared to other stores. I've gotten great deals, and I've seen items posted at silly prices too. If you got prime then shipping is covered, although keep in mind that lots of the low price ship kits are shipped from Japan so the free shipping takes a while. Also read the reviews, I've had a couple of sellers not ship but Amazon had my back every time.
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As for tips for a beginner, get the right tools right off the bat, this tool kit is a good start, I like these brushes (although you might want to get an additional bigger one as well), and I use this brush cleaner. Get a paint pallet for mixing, remember some paints like Tamiya need thinner while ones like AK don't. For more on brushes watch this quick video. You'll likely want some modeling masking tape. If you'll be doing something with lots of decals like a Carrier get some Microset & Microsol plus decal/hobby scissors. You'll need some kind of filler putty, I like miliput. Later on you'll want to mess with things like washes (vallejo makes a great out of the bottle wash) simple washes can make you stuff suddenly look pro because of what it does to small details, if you're going to be doing ships with specific paint schemes look in to the AK sets they'll be 5-6 colors all as part of a theme (like Royal Navy ships).
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Most importantly you should start with something cheap. Your first few models will be learning experiences, so play around with those cheap $10 IJN destroyer kits till you get comfortable, use it to test painting techniques, then build that $50 HMS Ark Royal kit.
I used to rent a 95 year old home with plaster and lath. The studpop was a godsend.
Studpop Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FRI5TMY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FJ3xzbJ5WAY5Q
Framing houses, we always called that tool The Dangle of the Angle.
We also always seemed to do just fine with the old school version:
Johnson Level & Tool B75 Structo-Cast 8-Inch Sliding T-Bevel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002N5OA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZcvJBb2G04YYB
I have this magnetic stud finder that works really well.
Edit: It was available for purchase when I first made my post and now it says it's unavailable.
I had the Wixey digital angle meter that didn't last two months. Figured it'd be more versatile than the digital angle gauge.
Ended up buying a Starrett miter saw protractor - has the added bonus of splitting angles for inside and outside miter cuts for me: https://www.amazon.com/Starrett-505P-7-Miter-Saw-Protractor/dp/B003CJSQ4S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518025692&sr=8-1&keywords=starrett+angle
True.
Though on obtuse inside angles I miter them and preassemble (if it's not a really long length) instead of coping. Use a gauge like this
Coping allows for faster installation because it can compensate for about 3 degrees of difference and still be tight as well there's only one cut to get accurate instead of two, whereas miters take two accurate cuts.
The back cut on the cope of an obtuse cope can get very extreme and really hard to do well.
Z-wave is solid. It may not be "open" but they keep standards. That means devices work as they are supposed to across various controllers. Now there are some more exotic things that don't work everywhere. Like the Homeseer switches get some extra functionality when using Homeseer controller. Speaking of Homeseer, they have a rep that is active in this sub as well as reps from GE/Jasco and Innovelli. All three are great, and very helpful around here.
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I also like using a RTL-SDR usb dongle to grab the 433mhz signals(using rtl_433) from my acurite temp/humidity sensor. That's an open RF band and is easy to parse the data into json and send via mqtt to home assistant. People use that bit of software and hardware to grab RF data from a bunch of products that are never gonna end up in the smart home section of the store.
http://www.amazon.com/Fastcap-PMMR-TRUE32-True32-Reverse-measuring/dp/B000GFHABG/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
This one?
I moved from Boston to Athens GA and bought my first real (but still cheap) home. Its a great functional house but all the storage space had this very cheap wire shelving that absolutely sucks. The 120sf master closet was not functional at all. Neither was the laundry room. Or the 4 other bedroom closets. Or the pantry.
So I called California Closets and Inspired closets. Two national chains and the only providers of a service like this in Athens GA. They both had very slow response times and took more than 3 weeks to visit my home to do a walk through and then another 2 weeks to get a quote. Inspired never showed up.
They were PRICEY. California came with this proposal for $2,929.
Our goal was to get rid of our dressers in our master bedroom and have some drawers in the closet so we could fit all of our clothing in there. California let us know that an option with 16 drawers (8 for each of us) would be $5,000 or more plus tax. He also let me know the install team is backed up and it would take 6 weeks until they could get to the job. I didn't bother hassling him for a quote.
So I shopped around a bit and decided to buy some Easy Track systems from Build.com. I looked around my house and decided to not only build out my master closet but also my laundry room, pantry, three guest bedroom closets and basement bedroom closet.
I measured each closet and drew some designs on a notebook. This and this.
Then I made this list of the Easy Track systems I would need to order to accomplish all of this.
Then I compiled my order on Build.com. I called them and was able to get a 10% discount on the pricing. Here is my receipt.
$2,710.02 + $189.70 tax for a grand total of: $2,899.72
Then I borrowed my neighbors miter saw and got to work. First I ripped out the old wire shelving and then spackled the holes and repainted. This took about an hour. I drank 2 miller lites while doing this. If you end up starting a business I recommend skipping that step.
I drank two more miller lites and listened to this audiobook while I put together all 16 drawers with wood glue and a rubber mallet. This took about 3 hours total and was the hardest part of the entire process.
The next morning I hung the track system on the wall using my laser level (which is the most handy tool ever for a home owner) and started the install. This took a total of about 8 hours for the master closet. I got a lot faster on the second half. If I were doing it again I would probably get it done in closer to 5 hours.
This is the final product:
Master closet empty. Full. Laundry room. Pantry.
We cleaned out all three of our dressers and fit all of the things from the previous closet layout in with ease. Then we listed them on craigslist.
I went on and did the other 4 closets and easily multiplied my available storage space in this home by at least 8x overall.
How much would all this work have cost me if I hired it out? No telling. Maybe $8k? $10k? 15k? Not to mention the fact it would have taken about 10 weeks from the desire to get it done to actually getting it done.
I spent about 20 hours and $3k. I think I could do the next one in 10 hours total.
Are you a little handy and a fast learner? Set something up and start offering this service! Doing this while you have a full time job is the perfect way to start. More on that here.
Don’t like closet building? Check out this list and take your pick.
You should check to see what he already has but my suggestions
One of these amazing rulers would be a great gift too
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X4P-I8b2rxs
A thread about them recently blew up on this subreddit. The 12" is only $15 on amazon http://www.amazon.com/Incra-RULE12-12-Inch-Rules-Marking/dp/B0000DD2U7/
http://www.amazon.com/Imperial-Blades-IBQD25F-1-QuickDraw-Contractor/dp/B00P14T90W
quick draw, $10 on Amazon
Hard to say for sure without knowing his shop, so you'd probably want to try to scope out any recommendations for specific stuff to see if he already has something similar before you buy.
A good suggestion that I think always works well for any budget is to go to a local hardwood dealer and just pick out a selection of interesting exotic lumber, any woodworker will always appreciate getting cool woods to use in their projects.
If you want to have some ideas for stocking stuffers / tools though I'll list some cool things that I think are not super common that I enjoy owning or make my life easier.
Tiny-T Pocket rule
6" precision t rule
A really nice miter gauge
Router setup bars
A nice marking knife
Marking gauge
Magports
Tapeboss
Grr-ripper
Dozuki & Ryoba
Alexa (Alexa, what is 5 and 3/8 times 16... Alexa set reminder for 30 minutes to spray the second coat... Alexa order shop towels... etc, it's actually really useful, and it plays music too)
Shop apron
Quick sanding strips
Digital Angle Gauge
Digital Height Gauge
Anything from Woodpeckers is pretty much guaranteed to be great, albeit kinda pricey
Fastcap makes a nice 5 m tape, which also has special markings to support 32 mm module carpentry system (which I admit I don't fully understand, only its ubiquity in variable shelf spacing)
Not out to shill for Amazon, available from many online vendors, but here is one link:
http://www.amazon.com/Fastcap-PMMR-TRUE32-True32-Reverse-measuring/dp/B000GFHABG
If brick and mortar stores won't carry metric tapes, screw them.
Good on you for jumping into it! First of all you definitely want to thin down your paints. Here is a good video on how to do so by the best 40k painter in the world. Secondly, if you are having trouble with some of the straight line bits like on the chest, neck, and leg pads of the commander, painters tape can help you practice and keep things straight. It's not the most reliable tool so I wouldn't use it as a crutch but it will help as you get more experience. Tamiya masking tape is decent and used a lot in the model painting community. Lastly, I'm not sure what size brush you're using but it could be that getting a smaller one will help. Keeping a medium brush around is good for painting large sections but I'd recommend picking up something like an artificer brush and painting with just the very tip of it to work on smaller detailed sections.
Buy a kit to find out if it is really black mold. Just becuase its color is black does not mean its "black" mold.
http://www.amazon.com/5-Minute-Home-Aspergillus-Penicillium-Stachybotrys/dp/B006JAERJK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&m=A2IPZHTEAJ3FQ3&s=generic&qid=1327725345&sr=1-1&gclid=CICg_rngxsQCFQgyaQodAbMAmA
Not HF but I bought this $38 self leveling laser level from Amazon and it's actually been working well -- always tested true level with my bubble levels
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N33JJ3R/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These things work fine: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002N5OA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
I have a Zircon I picked up on Amazon for pretty cheap. Nothing fancy, but has worked pretty well so far.
Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZF8Y6ZW
Yeah they do have smaller cheaper ones that work the same like this.
https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-T6-Professional-Stud-Finder/dp/B071LF2BRY
Plenty big enough to fully cover a stud. Actually I don't know why the longer ones need to be so long.
Thanks for the question! It's a marking gauge, which is used to scribe a line parallel to an edge. They're relatively cheap on Amazon and are awesome to have in the arsenal!
Here’s an inexpensive solution for similar glasses DEWALT DW0714 Laser Enhancement Glasses, Red
It looks a little bit like a surveyor's measuring wheel. But I'm not sure why the second handle.
Gods I wish I had just one friend like this lol
Cold Showers are so amazing I love it.
Since you haven't tried red glasses yet let me make a recommendation. Just buy these for at-home use: (also public if you don't care what others think)
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW0714-Laser-Enhancement-Glasses/dp/B00093DJ4M/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=red+glasses&qid=1566644414&s=gateway&sr=8-11
Red will block more than orange or dark orange. This will be cheaper and more effective than many "premium" blue-blocking glasses.
Also for cast-iron be sure to check out carbon-steel!
https://www.amazon.com/Incra-RULE06-6-Inch-Rules-Marking/dp/B0000DD2U5
https://www.amazon.com/T-RULE06-6-Inch-Precision-Marking-T-Rule/dp/B00004TRBW
https://www.amazon.com/Incra-RULE12-12-Inch-Rules-Marking/dp/B0000DD2U7
these are my favorite tools for measuring in the shop. might go for the 3 inch t-rule this year.
You're right, there are even "angle finders" that will automatically divide the angle for you.
Starrett 505P-7 Miter Saw Protractor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CJSQ4S/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_J3r-zbR08SVMS
Black mold can cause serious healthy problems. There are mold test kits you can get at hardware stores/Home Depot/Amazon.
Fungus and mold thrive where there is moisture and poor ventilation.
Did you see the movie Alien? It's exactly like that.
Definitely do not use White Out lol...you want White Testors Acrylic Plastic Model Paint and I would recommend using thin masking tape to help you from getting paint where you don’t want it to go - when you’re done, use Mod Podge to seal the parts you painted:
Paint
Masking Tape
Mod Podge
Here
QUICKDRAW DIY Self Marking 25' Foot Tape Measure - 1st Measuring Tape with a Built in Pencil - Best Steel Tape - Power Locking Tape Ruler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P14T90W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_F-AmDb3FY3S46
While engineer squares are usually the most accurate, and they're excellent for tool setup, they lack the functionality that a good combo square has.
If you need something that you know is square, find one of those plastic drafting triangles. Since they're cast in acrylic, they're guaranteed accurate, and they wont bend out of square (instead they'll just crack or shatter). Seems everybody I know has one left over from a geometry or drafting course.
I have this one. Zircon MetalliScanner m40- FFP... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZF8Y6ZW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I got mine on amazon for $11.
https://www.amazon.com/Fastcap-PMMR-TRUE32-True32-Reverse-measuring/dp/B000GFHABG/ref=pd_ys_c_rfy_rp_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000GFHABG&pd_rd_r=SSBGHWQC02CMR0JHKANZ&pd_rd_w=BRwEn&pd_rd_wg=xImtv&psc=1&refRID=02SRSDG8TA8J8R3S77J0
The problem with vintage is they are not commonly in good condition, or at a good price and are rarely both. You need help now. I like my two woodriver planes and think it's a great option. I have had the Stanley one there and it's not good. Also the z saw and the gyo are essentially the same thing.
Here are some things I think are better values or super useful.
https://www.amazon.com/Narex-Republic-Woodworking-Chisels-863010/dp/B00GPC74ZQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491542519&sr=8-1&keywords=narex+chisels
https://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Shop-Hammer-13-Oz/dp/B0037MHXVW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491542635&sr=8-1&keywords=japanese+chisel+hammer
https://www.amazon.com/DMT-D3EFC-Dia-Sharp-Extra-Fine-Diamond/dp/B00006IIO3/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1491542814&sr=8-11&keywords=dmt+diasharp
https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-34-707-Wheel-Marking-Gauge/dp/B00B3ZS2J2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1491542992&sr=8-2&keywords=marking+gauge
i'm not a fan of buying kits or any sort of bargain tool sets. you get what you pay for and those i have found are usually not worth thier weight.
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start with the basics. for pliers and screwdrivers i'd go for Klein Tools. thier 11-in-1 screwdriver is usually all I needed when going to figure out a problem in a tenant's apt. they even make precision screwdrivers. a pair of linesman plier and needlenose are both super handy. an adjustable wrench is a great tool to have. always helpful to not have to go digging for the right size. pump pliers are prefect for any stuck valve or even to get your garden hose on and off. i'd also get a voltage tester. if you do anything with electrical wiring before you zap yourself you can test if the power is on or off.
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for a tape measure you can't go wrong with a classic Stanley. there's lots of options in this department. stanley also makes decent saws. for general purposes the SHarptooth will work. hack saws are for cutting any sort of metal. a general socket set is also good to have. if you're working with any sort of wood you'll need a good block plane. same goes for for chisels. if you're nailing on trim you'll need a nailset so you can hit the head of the nail and not the wood around it.
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there's lots of types of utility knives available too. Stanley still makes thier classic model. Dewalt recently released a snap-off blade knife that's all-metal. i have a half dozen already, they feel good in your hand and it's easy to get a new sharp edge. Milwaukee makes flip-open utility knifes that are pretty handy too. or you could go for a classic Olfa. that metal tail doubles as a paint can opener.
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a good pair of Aviation Snips will do a lot for you. they're great for cutting sheet metal, siding, metal fencing or even some plastics.
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i buy all my Squares and Levels from Empire Tools. start with a torpedo level. they're the most handy and most often used in my kits. from hanging paintings to leveling your stove to building a workbench.
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i've had lots of hammers, currently use Stiletto ones but a good Estwing will last you a lifetime. they also make the best small pry bar.
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good paintbrushes are easy to find. Wooster makes a few. just make sure you clean them well after each use and store them either in the original packaging or wrapped in newspaper so you don't ruin the bristles.
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clamps are always handy in and around the house and shop.
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a good caulk gun like this Tajima is last you a lifetime.
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if you're doing any sort of furniture making get yourself a kregjig. it's a pocket hole jig. worth every penny!
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want to get fancy? get a stud finder. ditch the battery ones and go for a Studpop. it finds the screws or nails already holding up your drywall.
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don't know if you're considering cordless power tools. personally, i'd get into the Milwaukee M12 line. you can start with a basic set and expand from there. it's one of the largest lines of 12V tools and they're as powerful if not more powerful than some 18V tools. i know a plumber who uses them exclusively because every power tool he needs is run of the same battery. you can always add tools or bigger capacity batteries as you need them later from their full line.
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let me know if you want more info or ideas or need help sourcing particular tools. my brother used to run a tool and hardware store so i've been looking for the best of the best for years.
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Starett miter protractor, if he does finish work: Starrett 505P-7 Miter Saw Protractor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CJSQ4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_y2kXBb0GR5ZSV
Bosch laser measure is a good option and there are several versions under $100.
Awesome info! Yeah I hate to admit it but I'm just not sure how good I'll be at doing them by hand, but I'd love to know its me and not the tools if I fail lol. So I'm glad you told me what you started with. What do you think of this as a marking gauge? iGaging Wheel Marking Gauge
Tape measure: as big as you can get your hands on (at least 25 feet)
Combination square: This one is pretty good considering the low price
Chisel: Generally it's good to start with "one big and one small" which admittedly is very vague, but the exact sizes are generally not super critical except for certain specific operations. If you're going to be looking for used stuff at garage sales, really anything will do (as long as both the handle and blade are in reasonable shape from a structural standpoint; rust is not a problem) as long as you sharpen it properly.
Handsaw: For joinery you'll want a smaller saw with lots of teeth per inch (more teeth is slower cutting but a cleaner cut). Eventually, you will want a crosscut saw and a ripcut saw, but you can make do with just the ripcut saw for starters, as long as it's properly sharpened This video explains saws and saw sharpening really well.
Block plane: As long as you flatten the plane sole and sharpen the blade properly, you can use a variety of planes. I like the old Stanley #65 with the knuckle cap, but you can use others too. You might want to start with a low-angle plane to start, because it's particularly well-suited for trimming endgrain to adjust a piece to the exact length, squaring off the ends of pieces, or adjusting a miter cut to a really nice 45 degree angle. There are lots of videos on this on Youtube.
Sharpening: Look up the scary sharp method for starters. Eventually, you'll probably want to go to another method, but the scary sharp is the cheapest to get started with (but more expensive in the long run).
This exists already, it's a t-bevel.
Johnson Level & Tool B75 Structo-Cast 8-Inch Sliding T-Bevel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002N5OA/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_bwlMDbB45W58C
I've had studfinders like yours and had the the same issues. I recently bought this one and it works really well. Also lights up multiple lines, which makes it easy to find the center.
ProSensor T6 Professional Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LF2BRY?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Test for mold. See if the house has a warrantee on it.
Thanks a lot!
Are we talking about these?
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Yeah, I do think that one of the main problems may be in the fact that I use screens way too late, a little phone addiction..
Its actually very accurate. if you look at more detailed pictures of the unit, its very easy to line up the marks with where you want it on the ruler.
It has a lot of faults, but accuracy is not one of them.
I have this one and it seems ot do the job well enough: https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-34-707-Wheel-Marking-Gauge/dp/B00B3ZS2J2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525452451&sr=8-1&keywords=igaging+34-707
At a pop-up stall, it is a gimmick but not a scam. It is a practical tool when used with other measurements. No good doc will take the scan done at the pop-up and use it to actually evaluate their patient. They may do a re-scan in the office (and probably have a 20 second bit on why the in office scan is more accurate if there is a noticeable difference).
The gray box is likely a Tytron scanner.
The short version explanation is that it has two temperature sensing probes that measure the skin temperature on either side of the spine. While the specific temperature of the skin is not a major factor in the evaluation, the difference between the two sides is.
Without getting super technical, significant (+/- 2º to 5ºF) differences in lateral temperature are an indicator of a problem area of the spine. It does not prescribe what adjustment may be necessary, but the magnitude of temperature difference post-adjustment should be smaller.
The scanner has two small wheels that roll along the back or neck to keep track of distance traveled (Think a mini [one of these] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01018D7MS/)) and keeps a constant scan of temperature. The difference can be graphed in a line that shows Left, Difference, Right or as shown on that pop-up display with a bar chart showing scales of difference. The larger the temperature difference, the bigger the bar.
So in short: It's a good tool to assist in confirming an evaluation but it is not a specific diagnostic tool. It also happens to be a good non-invasive marketing tool.
Thx for the info. I just bought this one due to your post.
I'll second this - I have this one,which works really well and has definitely saved me some time and headache.
For true minimum you can use a hand saw, a drill, and something to support the wood, like some buckets or a pair of saw horses.
For angles, use a speed square or sliding bevel and kids protractor.
/u/whitetiger and /u/skinslip1 for helping me get through hours of solidworks on plug.dj. All of me, loves all of you.
http://amzn.com/B000ETUNEU , because I needed one in the shop today.
I feel you pain, because I'm in the middle of doing this in my home. After some experimentation, I'm replacing. It just wasn't worth the effort, even though all my trim is red oak.
Back to your situation...
With a newly finished floor, you don't want to use any chemical stripper or heat near the new work and risk damaging it. That leaves mechanical stripping.
Sanding will take forever as latex will gum up the pads. Then you're replacing the pads often and may still damage the floor. Using a scraper will get the paint off, but still leaves additional sanding and refinishing to be done.
If you like the style of the base, it looks like 4 1/2" clam, that's pretty common and fairly inexpensive. Personally, I'd replace with something little better, maybe colonial base, or if your home is older, a three-piece base (cap, base, show) stained to match the floor.
To install molding, you need a miter saw, coping saw, nailer or hand nail it, and one of these for the outside corners, and knowledge on how to cope an inside corner..
http://www.amazon.com/5-Minute-Home-Aspergillus-Penicillium-Stachybotrys/dp/B006JAERJK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408588717&sr=8-1&keywords=mold+test+kit
For those looking.
QUICKDRAW DIY Self Marking 25' Foot Tape Measure - 1st Measuring Tape with a Built in Pencil - Best Steel Tape - Power Locking Tape Ruler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P14T90W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7lvhDbQ1XHBJ2
Honestly I've tried a bunch of different stud finders with bad results like you indicated. I bought this one https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-T6-Professional-Stud-Finder/dp/B071LF2BRY a few years back and have never missed a stud for anchoring or cutting in new electrical boxes.
The magnet method works good as well. My pops used to use it with a little device like this one https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Stanley-47-400-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B002YCSIJC
Greenlee 430-500 Poly Fish Line, Tracer Green, 500-Foot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001UKL6BG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3ZP1AbM5A9E15
Greenlee 430 Poly Fish Line Tracer Green, 6500-Foot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001M0NTIC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_C0P1AbBNX9FH9
I assume you have not used hand tools much.
The first thing I would learn how to do and invest in is how to get your tools sharp, like really sharp. I mean shiny flat back and edge razor sharp. Without really sharp tools - hand joinery is not fun and much harder than it needs to be.
There is the scary sharp method, I am sure u/Peniceiling's suggestion works great, I use Shapton Stones, there are as many ways to sharpen as there are woodworkers.
But you will need to research and invest time in some way of sharpening and get good at it.
A simple Honing Guide can make things easier when you start.
This Small Rip Dozuki B. was recommended by the instructor I had for a hand joinery class last year as the best bang for the buck they knew of - I found it works great.
I'd get a 1/2in Chisel. When you get the chisel, it will not be sharp. You will have to spend time tuning it up.
A Mallet to hit the chisel.
I personally prefer a round marking gauge. This has to be sharpened just like your chisel so it cuts the wood fibers evenly and cleanly.
Small Sliding Bevel gauge to mark your dovetails.
A good quality double square is invaluable. Best $ value I have found for one of these is here.
A 2.0mm lead holder with sharpener is very helpful. Lets you mark into areas a regular pencil will not fit.
That would be everything I can think of to do all half blind and through dovetails, finger-joints etc.
A drill(press) and a couple more chisels sizes will get you mortise and tenons with standard 4/4 6/4 and 8/4 stock.
Good Luck.
I actually already have an empire 12 inch already but it's like a degree off. Yeah the starrett ones are sweet but really pricey. I think I may as well invest in it, if I can only afford one would this be a good option?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002CSBNO/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_bWABub16GPKRE
Or should I go with the other style?
Ooh and the saw is an old Atkins I don't really know much about it. It's like three feet long I think.
Sometimes it is just easier just to buy
https://www.amazon.com/AcuRite-06002M-Wireless-Temperature-Humidity/dp/B00T0K8NXC
You could use a tape wheel:
https://www.amazon.com/TR-Industrial-Collapsible-Measuring-Yellow/dp/B01018D7MS
https://www.amazon.com/TR-Industrial-Collapsible-Measuring-Yellow/dp/B01018D7MS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549555576&sr=8-3&keywords=rolling+measurement+wheel I just use one of these cheap and easy you just have to walk to make it work and super accurate.
I'm trying this one which I found recommended in another thread:
Zircon m40-FFP Handheld Electronic Metal Detector for Use on Dry Wall, Concrete, Plaster, Stucco and More with Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZF8Y6ZW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3oFPybX6HA6ZJ
When is he supposed to wake up in the morning? School start times are way too early for any sort of teenage mental health. What you're describing is severe sleep deprivation.
One way to shift his clock a little bit is by "darkness therapy" - i.e. isolating his eyes from all sources of blue light for about an hour before bedtime. Blue light blocks melatonin production in the brain, meaning that falling asleep will be near-impossible.
Give the kid a pair of blue-blocking goggles (like these: https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW0714-Laser-Enhancement-Glasses/dp/B00093DJ4M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487657661&sr=8-2&keywords=red+laser+goggles ) and have him wear them for about an hour before bedtime. Taking away electronics isn't enough - he is still exposed to white light from lightbulbs, which contains a significant blue component. The goggles will block all blue light from reaching his eyes and get his brain to start generating melatonin so he can fall asleep earlier.
Also, how much light does his bedroom get? He may need a sleep mask to cover his eyes during sleep. Blue light can filter through one's eyelids and interfere with melatonin production.
I do this myself, and it literally changed my life.
Also, let the kid sleep in on weekends as long as he wants. He's operating at a severe sleep deficit now, and needs to catch up.
There are basically 4 different sensor categories for my application.
  
1. USB logger
This plugs directly into the USB port on the Mac. They range wildly in price, sometimes costing close to $1k (which is way out of my budget).
Examples: TEMPerHUM, Omega, Lascar, Extech, TemperatureAlert, and more here
The problem is that, for whatever reason, these USB loggers are only compatible with Windows. The five above examples are Windows only.
The only logger that I have found that is Mac compatible is the Minnow. However, I spoke with the manufacturer and realized that it is not designed to be a real-time USB logger; the unit will quickly overheat. The workaround is to incorporate a USB relay switch to manually connect/disconnect the Minnow periodically from the Mac.
  
2. Bluetooth
Examples: Blustream, SensorPush, D'Addario Humiditrak, Eve Degree, and more here
The problem is that all of these products have an iOS app, but no macOS app.
But If I purchased the SensorPush sensor along with the $100 SensorPush WiFi Gateway, I can access the data over the internet.
But there are cheaper WiFi options, like the ConnectSense (won't be shipping until early 2019), Proteus, and La Crosse. But, I am hesitant to fully depend on an internet connection to get the data (i.e., if the internet goes down, then I would lose access to the data, which is not ideal).
  
3. RF
AcuRite sells a $13 Wireless Temperature and Humidity Sensor (model # 06002M) that transmits every 16 seconds using a 433 MHz wireless signal with a maximum range of 330'. This sensor is inexpensive because it is designed to be used with AcuRite Access and the AcuRite weather station products, which I do not want or need. It's all proprietary.
However, some people have reverse-engineered the radio signal to decode the data stream from this sensor if you have a USB RF receiver.
Examples:
This path appears frustrating and difficult to a neophyte like me.
  
4. DIY microcontroller
Unlike the other 3 sensor categories, this looks like the one area where proprietary protocols are not in the way of progress. Once you get everything set up, accessing the raw data is a breeze.
This is probably the most cost-effective option.
Examples: Raspberry Pi + this $10 DHT22 sensor, Arduino, Espressif esp8266/esp32 wifi module
The problem is that this is simply over my head. I have no real experience programming from the command line or really anything other than basic scripts. It would just be best if I paid someone to set this up for me, as I can easily envision myself spending 100 hours on this "simple" project.
  
Stud finders work terribly on lath and plaster. Buy this hand-held metal detector instead:
https://www.amazon.com/Zircon-m40-FFP-Handheld-Electronic-Detector/dp/B00ZF8Y6ZW
You'll use this to sense the metal nails that hold the lath strips to the stud. So it's basically a "stud finder" for lath and plaster.
Don't screw anything into the lath, even with toggle bolts. Find the studs and screw into them. Screw into the middle of the stud and you won't hit any wiring.
P.S. save up $70 for the speaker stands and don't destroy these awesome old walls.
Buy this thing fam
Just go slow, don't use too much pressure on the blade, and don't be afraid to make multiple passes. As long as you don't shift the straight edge you will get a perfectly clean cut even with three or four passes.
Using lines on the mat will not get you the precision that you need. Use a good square and line it by feel against your already perfect edge. The hardware store square from your garage is probably not actually square enough. Make plenty of layout marks with a sharp scratch awl. Look into the Incra t-square, it's very handy for parallels.
Also here's a method which I haven't tried yet but wish I knew about long ago: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1JAPRs6tx2w
Hey thanks for the quick response! Okay, so here's what I'm looking at ordering. If you could comment that it has all the right components for what you have set up, or if I'm missing anything, or if anything is unnecessary, I'd really appreciate the input!
Here's my shopping cart:
From my understanding with this I should be able to get everything I want, including the data logging/recording to PC.
For your signal strength issue, are you aware of this product at all? AcuRite 06053M Wireless Signal Extender for Sensors
Thanks for your input!
Awesome. Question though... what is the difference between the ruler in the first part of the video and the centering rule near the end?
http://www.amazon.com/Incra-RULE12-12-Inch-Rules-Marking/dp/B0000DD2U7
or
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002GU68M6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3N8FLE4WIU60I&coliid=I6W25CZPKUIS0
Does the centering rule have all the features of the first as well as just adding the centering features? It seems like it loses the center holes that the regular ruler has but it has the smaller edge holes? Does anyone know the true difference between them?
I used this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Masking-Tape-2pcs-Refill/dp/B00J3TLZQC
To do this: https://i.redd.it/rt3x5guaqtq31.jpg
If you do miter the corners, get one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Starrett-505P-7-Miter-Saw-Protractor/dp/B003CJSQ4S
It helps find the real angle of the corner and directly translates it into miter saw setting.
Thanks for the reply! Using a studpop to locate studs.
So I can't screw anchors into that metal drywall corner correct?
And you're saying I can use toggle bolts wherever on the wall even if there isn't a stud? That's awesome. The shades are a bit heavy but I'm not going to be putting my weight on them. So if I can just put those anchors in anywhere I'd be pretty satisfied with that as a solution. Also as a sidenote, I also ordered this. There's nothing in here that can freely support the curtains and curtain rod right?
OK. Let's do a quick test:
https://www.amazon.com/Healthful-Aspergillus-Penicillium-Stachybotrys-Consultation/dp/B006JAERJK/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_201_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=1Z8CMY8444APS7DSE25X
It is reliable, and you will hear within minutes "see, I told you so".
Franklin sensors are my personal preference.
Just hold the button and slide across the wall.
No other stud finder works as reliably or are as easy to use.
https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-T6-Professional-Stud-Finder/dp/B071LF2BRY/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1504561130&sr=1-8&keywords=stud+finder
A marking rule is good for smaller things: https://www.amazon.com/Incra-RULE12-12-Inch-Rules-Marking/dp/B0000DD2U7
It's still not easy finding basic (and purely) metric measuring tools on Amazon. I'm in the USA. To help others I'll link to what I've found.
Folding ruler
Retracting measuring tape, uses a 32mm system
3.5 meter tape
I'm not having any luck with finding a Celsius-only wall thermometer. Does anyone know of one on Amazon?
Also, US Metric Association has some awesome supplies on their website, but you have to snail mail in an order form.
Somewhat related, here's a really good 24 hour alarm clock. I had no luck finding a 24 hour alarm clock in local stores.
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW0714-Laser-Enhancement-Glasses/dp/B00093DJ4M
+ blocking all the blue & also green light (block 380 - 565 nm)
+ very cheap
- they let in some light from the bottom because of their shape
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https://www.amazon.com/Infield-Terminator-UV-400-Safety-Glasses/dp/B005IPPBNI/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=terminator+UV400&qid=1554721212&s=gateway&sr=8-1
+ they are perfect shape, covering from all sides
+ you can set the lenght and even the angle of the temples!
+ you can even drive a car with them
- they let in green light (block 400 - 495 nm)
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Non-mobile: Starrett Combination Square
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
Depends on what type of plaster and lath you have (wire mesh is going to be your worst case). Normal wood lath and plaster, use a zircon to get you roughly in the area, and then a magnet to find the lath nails
here's the magnet i like"
https://www.amazon.com/Studpop%C2%AE-100480-SP-Studpop-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B00FRI5TMY
and heres the zircon:
https://www.amazon.com/Zircon-MultiScanner-i520-FFP-Finding-Detection/dp/B01J39MJEI
You can use these with a RTL-SDR setup. It's well supported in linux.
Found on amazon. Some not-so-great reviews ... https://www.amazon.com/QUICKDRAW-Self-Marking-Foot-Measure/dp/B00P14T90W/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3E2TZDUEL71Y6&keywords=quickdraw+measuring+tape&qid=1556038526&s=gateway&sprefix=Quickdraw%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-1#customerReviews
If one is so inclined, they can make most of their own tools...
... but how many hobbyists in this sub are running Festool stuff or cabinet saws for 4 hours a month. Every day I see a "look at my new $1000 toy, how do I make a cutting board" post.
It's not really that major of an expense. This one here is about the same as mine and is only about $80. Realistically one half the size would be more than sufficient for most people. Most table saws will only expose 3-1/2 to 4" by about 6" of blade anyways. A Starrett Combination Square is $77 on Amazon, so it's not like it's a crazy expense.
I do agree with you overall that it is far beyond the precision you need for woodworking. I wouldn't dream of trying to cut joints to the thousandths of an inch. You'd come back the next day and the board would have grown/shrunk. Hell, the "ground" versions of these things are insane and belong in the inspection department of a precision machine shop.
For machine setups, however, I don't think it's a big deal to go a little overboard on precision. A well adjusted tool is like a well adjusted person... Less likely to hurt somebody.
Of course the best reason to have something like this... Sometimes you just need a 40# weight. Don't you want one with a nice handle? ;-)