(Part 3) Best power finishing tool parts & accessories according to redditors

Okay going to make this short and concise. These are all my opinions to make blades.

• Steel from here (start with 1084 or 1095 and you can either start with .156 or .187 for thickness (.187 is on the THICK side), or you can also get .125 thick for thinner projects. And 1.5 inches wide is the smallest i would go, or you can get 2 inches wide to be safe)
  
  
• Lots of different files, this one will help to start with though
  
  
  
• This belt sander does amazing to start out with
  
  
  Going to need lots of belts for it, here are some. Would suggest getting the 50 grit (please remember he will need multiple amounts of these so get a few of them). I would also suggest grabbing the 120 grit to take some deep scratches out. However the 320 isn't necessary as you can do all that by hand with regular sand paper.
  
  
• 1x30 50grit
  
  
• 1x30 120grit
  
  
• 1x30 320grit
  
  
  Hopefully in the yard or somewhere he can have a workbench set up because having a benchvise is such a luxury.
  
  
• This vice would do the trick
  
  
  
• The magical angle grinder, you can pick this up locally or order online
  
  
• It will need some of these
  
  
  Hand sanding paper (The fun stuff)
  
  
• 320grit
  
  
• 600grit
  
  
• 1000grit
  
  
  Also a sharpening stone will be very helpful however i don't have much knowledge as the best way to go with these. After doing some research, This stone seems like it would do the trick for the most part
  
  I forgot about these, 2 should be okay if he doesnt already have some
  
  
  Assuming you do not buy the 320 grit belts, and buy (5) 50 grit, and (5) 120 grit belts.
  
  The total comes to right around 308.36
  
  I failed you by breaking the budget, but your man is worth the 8 extra dollars :b Make him give you a foot rub and take you out for a nice dinner or something to repay the debt haha. GL and let me know if you have any other questions.
  
  Would like to note that all of this is for making the process easier. You can do all of this with 1 bench vise, 1 hand file, a hack saw and some steel. It would just take a long time and be extra tough! But absolutely doable without all of these gadgets

Model by youngs66 on thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1753445
Printed with Hatchbox PLA at 0.16 layer height on my Ender 3. Whole project took about 3 weeks, but I couldn't be happier with the resultsModel by youngs66 on thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1753445
Printed with Hatchbox PLA at 0.16 layer height on my Ender 3. Whole project took about 3 weeks, but I couldn't be happier with the results

Edit: thought I'd give a more complete outline of the process since people seem to be interested:

Printing
As stated above, this model was printed on my Ender 3. I actually have two Ender 3's, but I stuck mostly to using one due to a lack of filament. The whole thing took about 1 and 1/4 rolls of filament (in my case about 1.25kg). I printed in black Hatchbox PLA using Cura 4.3's new creawesome settings with variable layer height. Most of the files were printed with supports, which I actually found difficult to deal with (as always) and I ended up having to use a brim on every print to make sure some of the larger support towers didn't fall over. My first step was calibrating my printers. I made an iron Man helmet a couple months back and it didn't fit together quite right, so I wanted to make sure that I had my printers properly prepared this time. The model itself was scaled to 94.4% of its original size although in hindsight I should have given more clearance for my big head because Its almost impossible to put on and take off. I don't have an exact figure for the total print time, but it was probably close to 120 hours, most of which were overnight. The hardest part was keeping my bed leveled throughout the whole project. I got to a point where I leveled it before every print, which I know is a good practice, but it's still annoying to have to do without any sort of ABL.

Sanding/Assembly
I started sanding the individual parts as bare plastic with 80 grit sandpaper, then moved up to 100 grit, and then got bored and jumped to 400 grit. All in all I could have used to do a little more sanding because the layer lines are still visible in some places, but it is what it is. After sanding to this point, I assembled the whole thing except the eye pieces using cyanoacrylate. This didn't actually take that long because cyanoacrylate sets pretty quick, but it was still quite a process making sure everything lined up correctly. After it was assembled, I filled in any unwanted seams with wood filler and sanded them down with the same process I used on the rest of the model. After I was happy, I wet sanded the whole thing with 1000 grit sandpaper to give it a super smooth finish. I then applied a few coats of filler primer and wet sanded again with the same grit sandpaper as before. The lenses of the helmet were cut from a piece of transparent red cast acrylic I found on Amazon. It came with a paper backing on both sides to protect it, so I used that to draw the circles I wanted to cut as well as to draw the grid pattern with pencil before I made anything final. I probably could have made the grid better by using geometry or something but I didn't feel like it so I used a ruler and eyeballed the rest. I drew it on the paper in pencil first, and then went back (still using the ruler) and went over my lines with a hobby knife.

Painting
I started painting with a coat of the base gray color. Once I was happy with the finish, I masked basically the whole helmet to paint the gold parts, which was a pain, but I think it would have been more difficult to mask the recessed areas had I chosen to do the gold first. I still had the eyepieces separate and hadn't yet installed the lenses. The bright silver color was done by hand because I figure that would be easier than more masking, especially with the details and tubing. After I was happy with my base paint job, I went back with the silver and did some dry brushing on edges and corners to make it look a little worn.

Electronics
The electronics were by far the easiest part of this project, although there are thing I would change if I were to do this project again. The whole thing is really as simple as a red LED strip hooked up to a 9v battery. The LED strips I used are linked below, although I would recommend not using them for this purpose. They've got a water proof coating across the LED side of the strip that covers all of the contact points so it's pretty much impossible to connect to a strip you've cut. I had to use the LED strip from the inside out and make it one continuous strip across both eyes. The battery holder I got had a switch on it, so that's convenient. After I had it all hooked up, I installed the lenses into the eyepieces, the eyepieces into the helmet and then stuck the electronics in with some cyanoacrylate just to be sure it wouldn't fall out, the battery is held in the front of the mask by some masking tape (I know, not the most glorious solution)

Links
Model: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1753445
Sandpaper: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MXB5M5K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Metallic Gray Paint: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00681T1UU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_dDNTDb3JRFXTB
Gold Paint: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006N6RA8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_3DNTDbKYMM9VC
Silver Paint: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GJDUN0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_YHNTDbWPQ9P83
Wood Filler: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001733MIG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Red Acrylic: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006FLYIYM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Red LED strip (again, I recommend a different option): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HRMPBQQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Battery Holder: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HQ5RT7Z?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Hope this helps!

I know exactly what this is, I've got one in my toolbox - It's a dressing wheel for a bench grinder, also known as a Grinding Dresser. This particular one is called a Star Dresser, or a Disk Wheel dresser.

Here's a similar one on Amazon.

And here's a similar tool in use. (Obviously, pretty noisy video, so might want to turn your volume down a little.)

It's a bench grinder wheel dresser, it's missing a few of the star-toothed cutters

this one is pretty similar
https://www.amazon.com/Chicago-1682-Grinding-Wheel-Dresser/dp/B001RWAXWA

Wow, I don't use anything much coarser than 400 grit; polystyrene is pretty soft stuff.

OP, when I'm using sandpaper, I use stuff like this. It works well wet or dry. For sanding, I use grits up to 2000. If you're feeling lazy and can wait a little while (they ship from the UK), I really like Flory's sanding sticks.

Sanding sponge- used by painters/ decorators for prepping wall surfaces https://www.amazon.com/3M-Sanding-Sponge-Fine-6-Pack/dp/B004MW4GFM

Sanding sticks, you can make these yourself by applying double sided tape to wooden popsicle/ ice cream sticks/ tongue depressors/coffee stirrers and then sticking sandpaper to the tape, using a craft knife to trim off the excess sandpaper. Or alternatively you can use pre-made ones from Revell https://www.revell.com/tools/88-7010.html

Chisels are good for removing large lumps of filler/heavy layer lines, but they are difficult to use and require excellent sharpening. if used properly however, they can give a smooth surface with really clean edges, especially when the sharp edge of the chisel can get right into a corner that sandpaper cant reach. https://www.greenparrotools.co.uk/model-building-hobby-supplies/fine-detail-small-wood-sculpting-carving-chisels-tools

hope that helps!

I think I have more sanding devices than paints. :)

Here's what I use:

Building

• 600 grit sheets, available anywhere from auto parts to hardware stores. I use this as a general cutting paper, to remove emblems, take out mold seams, etc.
  
• 1500 & 2000 grit sheets, same availability, used to remove scratches from the 600, or remove blemishes where I don't need to cut deep
  
• 3000 grit Trizact - this stuff is amazing. It's like a thin sponge, really easy to work with, and does a great job at removing scratches from the 1500/2000 grits. Also used to rough up entire surface before priming/painting to give the surface some "bite" for the paint
  
• Sanding sticks - probably what I use the most, these are great for anything and everything, from removing seams to trimming flash to shaping parts. A set usually as varying degrees of coarse, medium, fine, ultra-fine. These sticks by Stevens International are the best I've found after trying various brands
  
• Flex-I-File - great for curved pieces, awesome for sanding out seams on axles and other round parts. Order a pack of refills; though they work great, they do wear out fast.
  
• Sanding Sticks - these are so handy, great for tight spots, inside grills, interior, corners and edges, you name it. Always make several passes using successively finer grits.
  
  Paint & Finish
  
  
• 600 - as above, used to cut & remove material
  
• 1500 - same, removes scratches from 600, but mainly used to level surface after paint coats; removes orange peel and texture
  
• 3000 Trizact - give everything a once-over as mentioned above, can't express how much I love this stuff.
  
• 3200-12000 grit polishing pads - after the surface is level, start with 3200 and work up through 12000. The 3200 does a good job at cutting/creating a smooth surface. All other grits above that remove scratches from the previous passes until you get a near mirror-finish with the 12000
  
• Novus Polishing System - consists of heavy scratch remover, light scratch remove, and silicone polish. This is what takes your model from looking good to being show quality. You know that feeling of sliding a cloth over a freshly waxed car? Same thing here after using the silicone. Really gives it a slick, wax-like coating
  
  Here's an album of how I finish out a paint job.

These things work great

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Sanding-Sponge-Fine-6-Pack/dp/B004MW4GFM

https://www.amazon.com/Sackorange-Abrasive-Cleaner-Cleaning-Skateboard/dp/B07H3Q127R/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=belt+sander+cleaner+block&qid=1567882573&s=gateway&sprefix=belt+sander+c&sr=8-6

You can get these belt sander cleaning blocks for cheaper. They are the same thing just not branded by a skate company, been using them for years :)

It's a grinding wheel dresser. https://www.amazon.com/Chicago-1682-Grinding-Wheel-Dresser/dp/B001RWAXWA

I'm not really sure about leather. I know leatherette is generally made of some sort of plastic, so it may damage that.

I'd just sand down the stand with a finer grit (maybe 800 or something) and find some way to get rid of the sawdust in the grooves of the wood.

This may or may not be a terrible idea. I'm not exactly an expert at woodworking. :P

Good color matching. You can really smooth out the paint to make it look more seamless with a 3000grit sandpaper. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/3M-03064-Trizact-Performance-Sandpaper/dp/B005RNGL9O

I found it really improved my alters.

sand it with one of these. Just enough to scratch off the peeling paint and glossiness. rinse the pad and repeat if it gets too gummed up. don't spend more than 15 mins on this. https://www.amazon.com/3M-Drywall-Sanding-4-875-Inch-2-875-Inch/dp/B00125NQBC

and then paint it with ACRYLIC or OIL paint. Wait 24hrs. Paint second coat. Wait another 24 hrs to dry at room temp with a fan on it to speed it up

it'll last a long time.

the paint you're using may be okay too. but you need to let it dry between coats and give the final coat a good 24-48hrs before touching it. it has to dry at room temp and preferably with a fan on it.

Would this one be fine?https://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-30743-300mm-Vibration-Absorber/dp/B000UQ7CZK/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=sorbothane+sheet&qid=1562327281&s=gateway&sr=8-1

The following is what I use:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002MSY7M/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1MZHA7NQKX918&coliid=I381Y10SB6Q4CK

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B8UPMO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1MZHA7NQKX918&coliid=I2XWKP0K1DK5HA

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002MSY72/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1MZHA7NQKX918&coliid=I2DQO3NVC9FF6R

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002MSY7C/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1MZHA7NQKX918&coliid=I3GP1JSN86DPMD

Hopefully that helps.

Edit: Even modestly using sand paper, this may be more than what you need. See: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UbAo4RpM7oM

A wire brush to knock off any loose rust is good enough but I normally use a die grinder with a cookie on it to get it real smooth. Then, right before you put the rotor on, wash the hub off good with some brake clean to make sure no junk is on it. It's also important to torque the wheels properly.

*edit mobile app putting my replies in wrong spots

this isn't the exact brand, but i got a set of sandpaper just like this one. and it covers everything and you can get very finely tuned with the sanding/polishing.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H7KFT6F/ref=dp_cerb_1

Yep, this is what I use

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Wetordry-Sandpaper-11-Inch-5-Sheet/dp/B00004Z4BE

Works well.

Instead of sandpaper try 3m Sanding sponges. I use fine and superfine grade pads before I prime or paint. They really shine on curved or irregular surfaces.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-916DCNA-Contour-Surface-Sanding/dp/B00004Z49L/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1313506209&sr=8-1

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Contour-Surface-Sanding-Sponge/dp/B00004Z49M/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_text_b

Haha no problem.

The little tape things underneath are teflon feet, they make the mouse a little more slick and also protect the original feet a bit.

https://www.amazon.com/CS-Hyde-Removal-Adhesive-Diameter/dp/B0099AMQGS/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468707455&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=mouse+feet+hyde

Fast or slow is honestly just up to you, I like mine a little more smooth but it's 100% preference. QCK is on the more control side, if you go on amazon and look up the reflex lab mousepad that's supposedly pretty slick though.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R64PZ8N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_ecJ6Cb128KFMW

You can get them on amazon here CS Hyde Mouse Discs with One Side Clean Removal Adhesive, 0.002" Thick, 3/4" Diameter (100 pcs/roll) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0099AMQGS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TgUyDbS312CNQ

Also you can use carnauba wax on the board to make it slicker

You can sand those out with wet-dry sandpaper. Something this. If you have a power sander, you can use this.

Make sure you use water to lubricate, and sand the whole top evenly. Move through the grits until you are at ~3000. Between each grit, make sure you clean the top thoroughly. You don't want any of the old grit on the surface when you start with the new grit.

NOTE: you can stop before 3000 if you want a less polished look.

Then, you can optionally buff it out with an automotive buffer and polishing compound, if you want a polished finish.

Edit: Forgot to say that you should pick a "pattern", and stick to it. If you want it to be swirly pattern like this, use the circular sander. But, a straight pattern is more common.

For wood carving, I was looking at discs from this company. They aren't cheap.

I had been aware of large-scale rustic/crude work, but not finer work like those very stylized chairs. That's really eye-opening and makes me think I could use them on smaller objects.

So I jumped down the rabbit hole earlier and ordered one of these. Being able to see through it will be a huge benefit to me. And it sounds like this "fine" one will remove enough material for the scale in which I'm working.

I'd love that TurboPlane disc at Lee Valley, but $160 is a bit much!

https://www.amazon.com/Diane-Rectangular-Pumice-Stone-Tie/dp/B003SZ4C1W/ref=sr_1_9_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1503609134&sr=8-9&keywords=pumice+stone

or if you're feeling exceptionally manly

No, it was bought in a hardware store where I live. But it's literally just a mat you use to put under your floor to make your floor comfortable to walk on and to insulate sound.
Something like this will no doubt work, but that seems very expensive. The stuff I use cost around $14 for a pack like this which has 10 sheets, each of them 0.5 meters. If you have a hardware store that sells floor stuff near you, just go ask them for "That foam stuff you use to put under floors that helps insulate and dampen sound", it's super common

Whiz wheel with https://www.amazon.com/3M-07480-Coarse-Surface-Conditioning/dp/B0002STR90/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491244327&sr=8-1&keywords=angle+grinder+cookie

Plus one for /u/staff_guy comment. Get the teflon bushings and you won't have the sticking issue. Also, as you learned, the ca is unnecessary on acrylic and resin blanks. My 2 cents on micromesh is that it's a tad overpriced. FWIW Iwork with a lot of acrylics and resin. I typically use the following items and so long as you don't go too crazy they'll last a long time.

Large pack of 320 Grit as you'll use that the most to get your smooth shape down.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Z4BF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KOMiyb353ZW2H

A variety pack of 400-3000 Grit for polishing.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JFX9UWQ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_eLMiybQWJ11Q1

Lastly a small tube of tormek for final polishing.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00149DIBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7SMiybBCXAV66

You'll spend about $25 and that setup will last you for many pens.

Yeah, it's available at the hardware store. It's this stuff. Don't forget to flatten that nagura stone as well.

Concentrate on your angle holding first and foremost, but as that progresses think about distributing the sharpening workload over the stone's entire surface. This way you'll wear the stone more evenly and not need to flatten as often. Also, just fyi, fired mud stones like Kings are harder around the edges than in the center. Thus they tend to wear fastest in the middle. If you ever need to do tip repair by sharpening along the spine, lay the stone on it's side so that it's not a big deal if and when you gouge it. Good luck!

Maybe something like this?

3M Superfine sanding sponge. I also have the fine version. I just expected the scratches to be...less obvious I guess? There's also a some discoloration, but that might be me nitpicking. Maybe I'm sanding a larger area than I need to? Judging by the grits you posted it looks like the superfine I have should be the starter and I need something even finer for finishing.

??

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Q05OCO?ref_=sr_1_1&qid=1420516996&sr=8-1&keywords=600%20grit&pldnSite=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Z4BE?ref_=sr_1_1&qid=1420517037&sr=8-1&keywords=400%20grit%20sandpaper&pldnSite=1