(Part 3) Best power tools according to redditors

No this is the heaviest thing they ship for free:

http://amzn.com/B0064BFJ3W Item Weight 8,514 pounds

What's the difference between this and the knockoff scangrip I got for $50 on amazon? I can still find swirls and paint correct. I do all my work in my apartment outdoor parking lot in the shade.

Your plan is about as wrong as it could possibly be. I'm not trying to be an asshole but for the sake of your kid, I am being intentionally blunt.

Hitting it with a dremel is going to fling dust everywhere.

An ordinary shop vac with a HEPA filter is not safe for use with lead paint. You need an EPA RRP-certified HEPA vacuum like this one which is the cheapest that I know of. If you own an old house it's a good purchase and you should use it liberally whenever you cut into a wall or disturb things that may contain lead paint.

The EPA has lots of information available about how to work with lead paint. Read up.

Finally, same day shipping on that lathe i've been wanting.

I mean, you can get this 6700lb (3000kg) lathe shipped free on Prime:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0064BFJ3W/

Though, to be reasonable, the shipping cost is probably built in to the price, considering it's the price of a new car.

I love going to the flea market on the weekend. I live near Cincinnati and frequently hit up Caesars Creek and Pirates Cove (used to be Turtle Creek). It seems Caesar's has really died since they had a fire, everyone moved over to Pirates Cove.

It doesn't look like you have a lot of inside space. But maybe you can answer this for me. I often notice that a lot of inside vendors at the flea markets I go to are closed. Since the place is only open 2 days a week, this seems kind of odd. I mean, if you only have 2 days a week to make money, wouldn't you want to be there? But more often than not I'll walk through at 9 am and at least 1/4 of the vendors aren't open and its frequently the same ones every time. It seems to me if I ran a flea market I'd have a requirement that they need to be open, especially since people are paying to come in and shop ($2 for parking). Its only making the flea market management look bad when 1/4 of their vendors aren't there. I can't tell you how many times I've wanted to buy something but the owner isn't there to sell it to me. Whats the deal with this?

How do you manage vendors that just sell...crap? I see a lot of vendors that have been in the same spot for years that never have customers because what they sell is either over priced or just stuff no one wants. Do you only care as long as the vendor is paying their fees? Or, do you look to manage to ensure that you have quality vendors that people actually want to come in and shop with, rather than people just taking up space?

What about religious vendors? There is a booth at both Caesars and Pirates cove that has Jehova's witnesses accosting you as you walk by. Annoys the crap out of me.

How do you handle vendor / customer disputes? Eg - last year I was looking to buy a dewalt impact driver. There are several used power tool vendors at the flea markets I go to. One guy was asking $125 for a used dewalt impact, battery and charger. I said look dude, they go for cheaper than that new online - https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF885C1-20V-Impact-Driver/dp/B01LBT3AZU $92 for a new unit with a carrying case. I offered $75, which he begrudgingly accepted. Later, I found him at another tool vendors booth pointing me out and warning them that I was making up prices online (uh...I showed him the amazon listing on my phone) in order to haggle people down. I just about went and talked to management, as this seemed unnecessarily childish. He didn't need to accept my offer, and he certainly didn't need to tell others I was some kind of scammer.

A = 24 1/2"

B = 20 1/4"

C = 39"

D = 26"

A and B were hard to measure and eyeballed but I would say within 1".

There is an answer on the Amazon review with slightly different measurements: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F2CGXGG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hey! I started much where you are and had no real way of learning from someone else on what to buy, what to look for, etc. etc. I've got a few tips for you!

​

When I first started wrenching, I thought I needed air tools. Every mechanic's shop has airtools. Cars are big and mechanical, and it made sense that I'd need something beefy to pull them apart. TOTALLY FALSE. I'll let you know that 90% of my tools are handtools from harbor freight and I probably spent no more than $200 on the collection. Here's a rundown of my most used/invaluable tools:

• 3/8" drive socket wrench from harbor freight. Composite handle, great mechanism, very comfortable, very light. I have a nice set of kobalt socket wrenches. They don't shine a light on this bad boy in my experience. I have and use 2 pretty regularly. You might be able to get away with just an adjustable wrench.
  
• Impact sockets. Little bit beefier than regular sockets, but I very rarely come across an instance when these are not the answer.
  
• Color coded deep sockets. When the impacts aren't the answer, these are. I've only got a set of metric, and haven't needed to buy the SAE set yet. I won't buy them until I need them. The color coding seems trivial, but is HUGE when you're sick and tired of being under the car, just want to finish since the sun went down and your tired. Going for the blue socket is much easier than sliding around in relative dark trying every socket to see if it's right. That fucking sucks.
  
• Universal joints. Not 100% necessary, so don't buy them until you need them, but holy hell do they make life easier.
  
• Extensions. Access is everything when it comes to wrenching. These ones wobble, you might not like that. Try them in the store. Poking 18" of extension up into a crevice is all fun and games until your socket starts flopping around and you can't control it. Double entendre. The alternative are non-wobbling extensions. I have the non-wobbly ones. They've worked totally fine and I don't find that I need the wobble ones.
  
• Adapters to make all your junk work together.
  
• Breaker bar. When your arms fail you, this won't. Don't go for the cheapest. I did and snapped off the end. Totally fucked myself in my work parking lot.
  
• Torque wrench. Almost the most expensive tool in my arsenal. Torque specs are very important. This wrench is cheap as fuck, and people say it's a comparable buy to the snap on wrench. I love mine to death.
  
• Adjustable wrench Like having an entire socket wrench set in one single tool. More elbow grease, but very convenient.
  
• Body panel pry bars. You will need these for general "gentle" prying on body panel snaps. Where a screwdriver would mess up the paint, these are surprisingly effective.
  
• My crown jewel: The impact driver. This is my singularly most used tool. Get this with a set of bits, and you'll be unstoppable. Of course it's not necessary, but it makes 2 minutes of wrenching a 2 second affair. Add it up and it saves a lot of time. These and These are what make my impact driver the best tool in my arsenal.
  
• JACK STANDS. Cars are heavy, make sure it's safely supported and you'll be confident every time you go under your car.
  
• Jack to actually get your car up.
  
• Plywood squares to put under your jack stands, and jack. Jackstands have small feet that sink in grass and asphalt. Plywood stops them from sinking
  
• PB Blaster, or penetrating oil. This stuff will pay for itself the first time you use it. Loosens the bullshittiest of bullshit.
  
• OBD2 reader This bad boy combined with a $10 app on your phone (DashCommand) will let you communicate with your car's computer. I can read codes, clear codes, see voltage, and boost and vacuum pressures. I can see RPMs, engine timing, rich/lean conditions and any other shit that I'll never need to see. Troubleshooting is 100 times easier with this. Most auto stores will read codes for free, but they won't clear them.
  
  And that's basically it. Lift your car on level ground. Use jackstands. "Getting to" the actual issue is always like 80% of the work. The work itself is pretty easy generally. Youtube and reddit ( r/mechanicadvice, r/cars, and r/justrolledintotheshop ) are invaluable resources. These people know their shit and they know yours too. PB Blaster is magic oil. If something goes wrong, get it on video for the experts to see and hear instead of describing a skrrt skrrt sound when you're turning left then right, you know? Get cheap tools to start with. When they break, you know that you use them enough to justify better ones. If I've told you not to skimp somewhere, it's because I've skimped there before and I don't want you sitting there defeated. Buy tools as you need them. Start basic, then expand. It's not called a collection because you bought them all at the same time from the same place.
  
  ​
  
  I got my start by changing my oil. Then my brakes. Then replacing this, then that, and now I'd feel comfortable working on a brand new vehicle. I'm no expert either. Just casual stuff. Building confidence is a big part of it. I wish you luck my man. If you ever need anything, let me know and if I don't have the answer, I'll find it for you.
  
  ​
  
  To clarify. The tools I listed above are 99% of what I use.

Dewalt 12v Max ¼" Screwdriver. Compact, easy to handle, quick bit change, the belt clip is awesome, and the batteries charge fast. Just enough power to get the job done without trying to handle a full size drill. Has 3 LEDs around the ¼" chuck to make it easy to see in dark spots. Pair this with a magnetic bit to hold the rack screws and you're ready to go.
Amazon link

If you are looking for a truly BIFL cordless screwdriver, I highly recommend Hitachi's. Yes, they make tools. Yes, they are good. It comes with two lithium ion batteries and an external charger so you can always have a fresh battery, and the charge lasts a long time. It has a lot of power coupled with the invaluable feature of an adjustable clutch, to help you avoid stripping the heads of your screws. I have had mine for at least five years, use it a fair bit around the house, and it still works perfectly. I see they have a new model now but it looks to be even better than the one I have.

Here's an 8500 pound machine that has free 2 day shipping with Amazon prime

Have you looked at the Dewalt 8V gyroscopic screwdriver. It's very bizarre at first but after a few days it's very nice to use.

http://youtu.be/nggZn2kwsoI?t=519s

Yes, this is a much cheaper option, just need some labour hour:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I33UG8C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_vN.pzbPA9WWVN

This'll probably work too: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KL4UI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_6O.pzbMNCAMXZ

To save some time, this will do the trick nice and fast: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LBT3AZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_YQ.pzb7E4XC6F

Light weight.
Some kind of illumination.
Small size.
Variable Speeds on the trigger.
Variable torque is also highly desirable.
Less power than you think you really need. 6-15v
Too much power and you tend to strip screws.
Long bits, or a 6 to 9" bit extender, so you can get clear of cable managers.

Dewalt @ $99

Milwaukee @ $129

We used to have a big honking 24v Dewalt brute. But you just don't need that kind of power to put screws in a rack. You're not drilling into a cinder block, or Mahogany or something. And you're always one-arming them, while you hold the device with the other hand, so if it's too heavy it will fatigue you pretty quick. And that's no good if you've got a fresh pile of routers, switches & load-balancers to rack in the next 2 hours...


-----

Edited to change the Dewalt link to a complete kit that actually includes batteries.

I was recommended this and this when I asked this similar question a few days ago. Click my username to find the link.

I am currently dealing with this. I had to take down a small portion of a plaster ceiling and dust covered the entire house. I also did some small wall repairs that caused a layer of dust on every surface of my house. I went on a research tear (internet and talked to every expert I know as I work in the hvac industry). Here’s what I learned and what I now do to protect me and my family:

First, some facts:

• Lead is not your only enemy. When you drill into a wall you could potentially be drilling into asbestos and pulling that out from behind the wall and into the air. (Asbestos was banned in 1970’s, so your house almost definitely has some hidden in the walls)
  
• Lead is heavy and falls to the floor pretty fast, so inhalation isn’t much of a concern except for you when you’re doing the job. The biggest risk there is if you have pets or kids playing on the floor where the dust eventually settles.
  
• Asbestos is extremely light and will hang in the air for 2-3 days before finally settling.
  
• People who develop asbestos related lung disease are those who inhaled large quantities of asbestos on the job for decades without taking proper precaution (because they didn’t know. Bummer.). That’s not to say you shouldn’t protect yourself on the job, but you also shouldn’t lose sleep about dying of mesothelioma.
  
• The size of a lead atom: 1 micron
  
• the size of asbestos particles: .3 to .7 microns
  
• NOT ALL HEPA FILTERS ARE CREATED EQUAL. You must read the specification for the hepa filter you plan to buy. If it doesn’t filter out particles <= .3 microns - or doesn’t specify information on the particle size - don’t buy it for the purpose of filtering lead and asbestos. All you’ll be doing is kicking it back up into the air.
  
• Most household hepa vacuum cleaners are rated for allergens (dander, etc) and NOT lead and asbestos particles.
  
  With that, when you’re on the job, here’s what you do:
  
  
• Get yourself a proper mask to work with that supports filters you can change. Make sure you get the right filters. They must be specifically rated for lead and asbestos:
  
  This 3M face mask with 2091 filters will protect you:
  
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OZZZ7JU
  
  If you buy filters other than 9021 make sure you read the specification to ensue that they’re rated for particles at least as small as .3 microns.
  
  
• Buy a shop vac with an appropriate hepa filter that also supports tool attachments. I use this one and it works amazing:
  
  Vacmaster 8 Gallon HEPA
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ULBA4W
  
  It’s rated for the type of work we’re doing. You can attach a sander to it and it’ll suck up most of the dust before it hits the floor/air. It’s not 100%, but It’s way better than 0%. It’s also the most affordable one I could find.
  
  
• Remove or cover any furniture in the room (big jobs or sanding)
  
  
• Create negative air pressure in rooms where you’re going to create a lot of dust. This is easier than it sounds. You basically cover all doorways with plastic and duct tape and get a fan blowing out of a window. You can buy plastic sheets with zippers so you can easily go in and out of the room (try to limit this, though, and strip off your outer layer of clothes before leaving the room if you’ve created a lot of dust). You know you have negative air pressure when you turn on your fan and he plastic sheets are getting sucked into the room instead of pushed out. This will ensure that 90% of the dust is blown outside where it can safely spread out into the atmosphere.
  
  Here’s a short video on what negative air looks like:
  
  https://youtu.be/JvAOVT9CVVY
  
  
• if your super paranoid, you can ask your family to leave while you do the work.
  
  Now, when you’re done with the work, it’s time to clean up. Here’s the safest way to do that:
  
  

1. Put an air purifier with a properly rated hepa filter in the room and leave it for a day. This will let the dust settle while clearing the air of lingering dust. Austin air makes great air purifiers for this kind of dust, but they’re pricey)
   
2. Water reduces dust particles from being kicked up in the air by 80-90%. All you need to do is use a spray mist (use pump bottle that hair dressers use) to wet all surfaces where dust can settle. It doesn’t need to be soaked, just misted.
   
3. Use your hepa shop vac to vacuum up the dust from everywhere you just sprayed.
   
4. Mist the plastic you used to seal off the room.
   
5. Slowly roll up the plastic as you remove it so that the part that was inside the room is getting covered. Put directly into a contractor bag, seal it and throw it away.
   
6. Leave the air purifier running for a few days.
   
   Hope this helps!!
   
   Edit: changed when asbestos was banned from 1978 to the 1970s as it was phased out until 1980.

No worries! Below is a link to a circular saw by Skill (or you can search “circular saw” on amazon. It’s one of the first results and is just over $60). It’s kind of the bread and butter of circular saws. It’s the one everyone has. It’s the one I have (minus the laser)! Good saw and it can be used for a whole lot of stuff. Different tool than what is shown above, however. The posted tool is a planer which helps make boards a uniform thickness.

skill saw

Edit: After reading your comment again, he’s definitely asking for the circular saw; however, if you’re already buying tools and want to buy more tools, a reciprocating saw would work way better for something like cutting through a wall. It’s a good general purpose tool as well (I’d stick with the circular saw if you’re only getting one though).

reciprocating saw

I'm still a bit of a beginner and I've been working with a lot of the tools my dad has along with building my own set of tools and wood stock.

Here's my mid-range/semi-dream version but it's tools I work with every day:

Probably a bit controversial, but consider picking up a radial arm saw. You can find these used fairly easily and with a little TLC they'll be in great working order. These saws can do everything a miter saw can do with a bit more ease in my opinion. My dad has had his Craftsman since the '70s and is running like a champ. You can check out my thread on it here: https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/comments/7m0w22/any_radial_arm_saw_love/

I will say, you can't go wrong with a quality miter saw though. Get a dual bevel compound miter saw and there's nothing you can't make. My RAS can do this but requires a bit of set-up and isn't necessarily the most efficient.
Look at Dewalt, Makita, and Rigid for these. They'll be at a higher price point, but a Makita Miter Saw might just outlive you (my dad's Miter saw is older than me and still cutting through just about everything with ease).

As for sanders, I highly recommend picking up a Dewalt random orbit sander. I started with my dad's old makita palm sander but the orbital sander makes leagues of difference both in hand fatigue and speed of sanding.

While I recently picked up an impact driver, you honestly do not need one to start off with. Unless you find a deal on a drill/impact driver combo then skip it until you have a job that'll require a lot of driving.
Another point on this, when you buy a battery operated tool, stick with the brand as much as possible. Every company has their own rechargeable battery pack and mix and matching is a pain in the butt!

For a budget, Ryobi works great. Rigid is a step above that. If you feel like going for a higher quality, I'm a huge proponent of Milwaukee drills, impact drivers, sawzalls, etc. I've been using a Milwaukee M18 drill for awhile now and it hasn't let me down one bit.

Probably the next thing you'll need is clamps. Let me just tell you that you can't ever have enough clamps! Harbor Freight sells these phenomenal bar clamps that are amazing for any budget, really these things are awesome. Paul Sellers has a video on these as well as some improvements that can be made to them, too: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AyKiGmRq3wY
You're also going to want some C clamps. Something sturdy and a cast design. Any time I make a jig for cross cuts or need to hold something to my bench I rely on C clamps or a small set of bar clamps.

Next up, you'll want a good chisel set. I have the four piece Irwin chisel set that comes with three chisels and a mallet and you can't find a better deal for the money. Chisels are great because you can use them to create decorative aspects to a project, flush up an edge, smooth a surface, add a chamfer, etc.

Routers are great, but you really don't need one when you're starting out. Even then, I would say it's worthwhile to get a compact router like a Rigid or Makita for your first one because it's easy to use, you can use it for carving, decorative edges, flush cuts, etc. I have a full sized Porter Cable but I kind of wish I started with a compact router.
The downside of these is that routers can get expensive real quick with the bits and jigs and a table.

If you plan on working with sheet goods, you can't get by without a Skilsaw. I have a Makita Skilsaw that my dad used to basically build the home I grew up in, but I highly recommend going for the Skilsaw brand: https://www.amazon.com/5280-01-15-Amp-4-Inch-Circular-Single/dp/B01BD81BLO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518905277&sr=8-2&keywords=skilsaw
That link is for a budget Skilsaw, but if you have the funds a Skilsaw Wormdrive will probably outlive you if you treat it right!

For dust collection, you could for for a Rigid Wet/Dry Vaccuum. These guys are powerhouses and I've used them for dust collection and even dealing with flooded basements. Home Depot has a huge selection of these, I would go for the midrange option. I have a 12 gallon Rigid and it's perfect for everything I need it for. Alternatively, you could also use an electric leaf blower, which is what I started with to blow out my shop, but this isn't too good for the lungs.

Safety glasses, ear protection, and a decent dust mask are all musts. I use a 3M respirator for any sanding or heavy sawing on my RAS. I prefer this over the disposable paper masks because it's a little less stuffy and easier to wear.

Now here's the budget version:

For about $200 you can have a tool kit that'll just about do everything the above tools can do and it might teach some better fundamentals regarding woodworking than if you start withy all power tools:https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLrnohP1V87nCxxFaIJwc6PuvlhqThL0c1

That's a video series from YouTuber Wranglerstar and I really enjoy the videos he puts out. I don't think he's always the most relatable for all audiences, but he really puts out quality content, especially in regards to woodworking. The series I linked to covers some of the tools above, but bundles together a budget build of tools you can use to accomplish just about any woodworking project. Definitely worth the watch!


Lastly, I think your first build should be a workbench custom built to the size of your shop. Run it along the wall, maybe. Now, you can do this with just pine 2x4's and you'll have something extremely sturdy, durable, and cheap. You can laminate 2x4's along their width for a thick top surface, or you can purchase some MDF or plywood and use 2x4s as a frame and the plywood as a work surface.

Let me know if you have any questions! I'll be glad to help!

My friend does bevels like OP with a sander like this....
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAXSYT8/

In the 4th photo, you can see that the 36" belt sander has a small guiding platform. My friend's setup has a larger DIY platform and a 45" guiding block that's attached to a slide on the platorm. Once he marks the bevel in pencil, he dials in the distance on his guide and slides it.

I think a mounted edge router would be much faster but he makes do just fine.

Tomahawk and a circular saw!

Here's the listing url: http://www.amazon.com/26x80-Geared-Engine-Lathe-8-inch/dp/B0064BFJ3W/ref=sr_1_12

How is it possible?! Two days?!

A circular saw is basically an electric motor with an on-off switch, so they're pretty durable and for most purposes they're interchangeable. That particularly model is a 13 amp motor. You might want to consider getting the 15 amp version for the additional cutting power but honestly you'll probably be fine with the 13 amp version.

If you're doing any sort of fine woodworking you're much better off sinking money into a good blade. (As the Shop Talk suggests.)

This

> And yes, you had better believe that I would gladly use a beauty of a skilsaw like that:)

I like the part where the housing is live at mains and requires the grounding wire before grounding pins existed... Better not use it in the rain <3

Also, you have to consider, things were hand built. Hand milled. There were very limited automation, if any.

Which means


A. Expensive as hell to produce quality.

B. Things were beefed up to deal with variances introduced from human errors

Today, it's 95% fully automated with high precision and tight tolerances. Which allows manufactures to reduce materials to get the same job done while reducing the cost drastically.

I looked up the prices for circular saws in the 1940's. Can't find archive for the Model 77, but I found this sweet catalog for power tools, including the model 520 circular saw. Look, it costed $60 in 1940's. Sweet, it costed the same as a new one today!

Oh wait, better account for inflation.... oh....my... $1,000 in today currency. LMAO

Dewalt DCF680
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF680N2-Gyroscopic-Screwdriver-Battery/dp/B00DL7QDS2


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yxntkScF37U

Perfect for a range of tasks from racks to driving screws into mounting board.

15 Clutch Position Settings.

The LED light stays on for 15 or 20 seconds making it usable. Just tap the trigger.

If the bandsaw runs, it should still be useful. You can purchase a new blade if there's an issue with the existing one. The chisels will be fine, but you'll have to learn how to sharpen them. Sharpening systems can be expensive, though.

Otherwise it depends a little on what you want to build.

If I were starting out on a significant budget, I think I'd go with a skil saw, triangle square, tape measure, and drill/driver set. And I'd be thrilled to have a bandsaw & chisels. If you can, buy a good skil saw. Don't too much worry about the quality of the rest.

Those will all be very useful later, too, of course. Might build some sawhorses first and go from there.

A skil saw is really useful for breaking down pallets, as well, in case you plan on making use of them as a source of lumber while you're starting out.

If you want a more specific list, I own these products:

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-33-312-Powerlock-Tape-Rule/dp/B00002X2GN/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1497387060&sr=8-5&keywords=stanley+tape+measure

You don't need a 25' tape and a 12' tape is easier to use.

https://www.amazon.com/5280-01-15-Amp-4-Inch-Circular-Single/dp/B01BD81BLO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1497387078&sr=8-3&keywords=skil+saw

That skil saw isn't the best in the world, but it'll get you pretty far.

https://www.amazon.com/Swanson-S0101-7-inch-Square-Layout/dp/B00002255O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497387123&sr=8-1&keywords=triangle+square

Just a cheap, basic square.

You'll also want some clamps, no doubt. On a tight budget I'd get some walmart cheapies. They're not great, but they get the job done, and clamps are crazy expensive. You want them to be basically like this:

https://www.amazon.com/IRWINQUICK-GRIPOne-Handed-Mini-Bar-Clamp-1964742/dp/B00002244S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497387348&sr=8-1&keywords=woodworking+clamps+hand

But larger (12-36"). And walmart brand is cheaper, I think they're about $3 for a 12" clamp.

Good luck! Ask questions!

If your goals are to do fine woodworking, like interior furniture (that isn't "rustic")...or if your budget is much larger, then you'll be looking at an entirely different set of tools.

Table saw, planer, orbital sander, bandsaw (if yours is no good), bench grinder, miter saw, jointer, in order of importance (to me!). And lots and lots of hand tools. Marking gauge, marking knife, awl, variety of drill bits, counter sinks.

Belt sander, disc sander, jigsaw, router. Router can be way up there in importance if you make good use of it--very versatile tool. I just don't use it a ton personally, and bits can be very expensive.

I've been contemplating getting a cordless screwdriver for doing stuff around the house - things I don't need to go grab my drill from the shed to do, so I've been looking at a few on amazon. Most are stepping up a couple of levels price wise on the pictured drivers, you are looking at around $100 USD.

​

The only one I've used is an old Panasonic model, which I'm surprised, they are actually on amazon still. We have a couple of these at work, and they are great. They are nicad batteries, and while the batteries in the ones we have don't last too long these days, we have several batteries for them, and considering the drills and batteries are probably at least 15 years old, I really think they are top notch drivers.
https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-EY6220N-Cordless-Battery-Rechargeable/dp/B005AZ39LM

​

I'm surprised no one has linked to the milwaukee drives like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Screwdriver-Tool-Only/dp/B00VYNEEZO/

I haven't used them, but I'm sure they are top quality being milwaukee. I don't know too much about them though.

​

There are more options out there, like the dewalt gyroscopic driver - The tool looks good, but I'm not sure about the gyroscopic control, I personally would just prefer a trigger.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF680N2-Gyroscopic-Screwdriver-Battery/dp/B00DL7QDS2/

​

I was eyeing off the Hitachi / Metabo one on US amazon, as i have some amazon credit, but the chargers aren't universal chargers, they are 110 only :(, so i would need to find a local charger, which would add up cost wise pretty quickly

https://www.amazon.com/Metabo-HPT-DB3DL2-Screwdriver-Batteries/dp/B07L78Y72J/

​

​

Hopefully those options are useful for you. I'm interested to hear other peoples opinions of them.

SKIL 5280-01 15-Amp 7-1/4-Inch Circular Saw with Single Beam Laser Guide https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BD81BLO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gnuBzb5NNEHDQ

I'm sure there are better circular saws out there but for $60 I've been completely satisfied.

I use this for aeration.

Which basically punches the fruit cap, too.

I rack as much as "necessary." For this one, I expect:

• Near the end of fermentation, from bucket to carboy.
  
  
• About 1 month after fermentation ends, to leave behind the bulk of the solids.
  
  
• 3+ months after fermentation ends, to rack onto stabilizing elements and back sweeten.
  
  
• If, for some reason, I need to fine it (and history indicates that I will not - all my berry melomels seem to drop clear nigh-instantly), I'll rack it off the fining agents about a week after adding them.
  
  
• (Edit) And of course, I'll rack immediately before bottling.

Then what do you call these?

I would suggest a Dewalt portable vacuum. Highly reliable. You can get a 60v 6amp lithium battery for it with a charger it last forewer, also runs from a cord. It is wet/dry. Commercial quality. I have one and it's crazy good!
https://www.amazon.ca/DEWALT-DCV581H-20-volt-Cordless-Wet-Dry/dp/B00DD1UQ3Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?crid=3TGKJHD24XYN0&keywords=dewalt+vacuum+20v&qid=1554679295&s=gateway&sprefix=Dewalt+vacuum&sr=8-1

It's the same principle basically as the barn door; the barn door puts the wheel on top of instead of inside the channel, but essentially the same thing. Strut is better since you put it right on the ceiling -- barn door needs three inches or so of clearance for the top wheel so there would be a substantial gap if you used the barn door stuff. Send me a napkin sketch of the situation and I will draw up something more complete for you.

In terms of tools, you'll for sure need a good stud finder to locate either wall studs or ceiling joists, unless you want to just randomly drill holes all over the place ;). A useful tool to have in the kit.

The other reason I ask about tools is that the door panel itself will be somewhat tricky to make. There is no existing door that is that big, so you will need to make something. Depending on what kind of cutting services your local hw and lumber stores offer, you may need to cleanly cut some of the panels yourself. This is best done with a tablesaw, but you can use a circular saw and make a sawboard in the meantime.

I would use two sheets of 1" foamboard with a 2x2 frame and face it with 1/4 masonite on both sides. This will paint really nice and should cost about $50 total. You can also do something more creative like clad it with pallet wood etc. I'll draw this up an send later so it's clear

The right tool is a moving fillister plane, or a rabbet plane. Bad ones suck. Good rabbet planes have skewed blades and nickers and cost 5-6x as much as the options you linked above.

Here's a wooden one that I wouldn't mind using.


And a metal one that I'm planning to purchase soon.

I use this to cut rabbets now. It lacks a nicker + is not skewed, so it does a mediocre job at cross-grain rabbets. Generaly, when rabbeting cross-grain, I start out by using a carcase saw to perform the cross-grain cut, then use the plow to clear the waste. At the end, I come in with a skewed chisel or a scraper to leave a clean surface, since planing with a straight blade across the grain tends to leave a bit of a mess. It's a lot of work--all of the options that you linked will have the same shortcomings, since they are not skewed and lack nickers.

The only plane in your list that's truly made to cut rabbets is the Stanley No.78 copy. The rest are better described as shoulder planes or router planes.

To quote Schwarz on the 78, "After working with a No. 78 for years, I concluded that it does its best work in softwoods that are going to be painted and displayed in dimly lit rooms." Yeah. It's that bad. To add insult to injury, the modern copies are usually worse than the originals.

It's likely that the most cost effective solution here is to buy a $99 trim router like this or this and a straight bit. Both of those come with edge guides. TBH, even with a lot of nice hand tools in my shop, I reach for little routers like these all the time for quick rabbets/grooves/etc. They are incredibly cost effective and really nice to use because they're so small/light.

http://www.amazon.com/Cannon-Safe-CO54-Commander-Champagne/dp/B004Y0WET2/ref=sr_1_3?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1354033093&sr=8-3&keywords=cannon+commander+safe

This weighs a little less than a BRZ and they were offering Prime shipping when it was for sale :D They delivered it on a flatbed.

http://www.amazon.com/26x80-Geared-Engine-Lathe-8-inch/dp/B0064BFJ3W/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1HC6TQJ5K2YMPRP58383

This one weighs 3 BRZs and it's free shipping, but no prime :(

I've created my very first two dice! (IMAGE HERE) The A-B die is for playing Bivius. The other die is to use as a YES-NO oracle (includes symbols for Yes and, Yes, Yes but, No but, No, No and)

The painting method works fine, although it can be a little bit tricky.

Engraving them with the tool I got was easy, except that its potency doesn't last much because it uses 2 AAA batteries, and they run of juice fast! I've just bought a better tool to ensure I don't encounter such an issue anymore.

This is the least expensive real hepa vac I was able to find. Filters and bags get expensive.

Like others have said, read the EPA guide.

$45 shipped. Maybe you are thinking of a table saw?

I used a power drill for 95% of the drilling. I got one of these off of amazon. I typically had the speed set to the middle speed. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075N68KRZ

There were some spots that I used a pin vise but not to many. I couldn't imagine doing the whole thing with a pin vise. The bits would break so easily with out some type of vise to hold the model steady. One thing that did help, which I wish I had done for the main super structure. Was to drill the holes when the pieces are still on the trees. This made it much easer and faster for the trench. For the super structure you will have to cut away a lot of material on the main component to do this. However it will be worth it. I drilled the superstructure after glueing the detailed pieces onto the main component. So I was drilling through two layers of plastic. I broke a number of bits doing that.

​

​

What about using a HEPA rated shop vac? I've been considering getting one of these for vacuuming after home improvement projects now that I have a kid.

I'd like to get into woodworking and a have a few tools from being a DIY kinda guy, but I've never actually done any nice woodworking. I've had a bit of experience making some shelves, staining, and such. I need some advice for getting started.

I've got a pretty big workspace and built myself an L shaped plywood table against the corner wall. As far as tools, I've got a drill, circular saw, reciprocating saw (<-all the Dewalt battery operated kind), screwdrivers, and some cheap chisels.

I'd like help figuring out a beginner project. I like all the cutting boards I've seen. Or maybe making some more tools (I've seen mallets and screwdrivers). Something easier, but that I can be proud of when I get done. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I'd also like some advice on what tools I should get next. I'm thinking a table saw would be useful and I've been looking at this one. I realize it's not a cabinet table saw, but I'm not sure I want to shell out that much right now, and I have no idea what I'd be looking for if I were to go look for a used one. I've also been considering getting a couple of hand planes, but every time I see people ask about those, everyone responds with $150-200 hand planes. If i end up rarely doing woodworking, I can see the use of a table saw like the one above, but I'm not sure if expensive hand planes would ever get used. Is it necessary to spend so much on some hand planes? Or would I maybe be able to get a decent quality one for around $50 and then get some wet stones and sharpen it (only found out hand planes were really useful recently so I probably have no idea what I'm talking about here)?

noice, my wife bought me a sweet table sander on amazon that I used to shape my rests https://www.amazon.com/WEN-6502-36-Inch-6-Inch-Sander/dp/B00NAXSYT8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468878654&sr=8-1&keywords=wen+table+sander

This is the best response here as you already have the tool.

Dremels generally have a router attachment available for them, so you can control the depth that you're cutting to. Put a normal cutting bit into your dremel, and go to town routing a recess in the back of your piece to whatever depth you need.

Long term, pick up a router. The larger motor can handle bigger bits, and will save you a lot of time cutting these kinds of pockets quickly and easily.

https://smile.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW715-12-Inch-Single-Bevel-Compound/dp/B000ASBCK4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511842031&sr=8-1&keywords=dewalt+12%22+compound+miter

this bastard is at the cheapest it's ever been according to camelcamelcamel, I ordered it today!

That's funny. Every single tool I have ever bought at Harbor Freight went wrong.

Here's a decent saw for only $220. I just did 2 kitchens worth of crown moulding with this saw this week.

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW715-15-Amp-12-Inch-Compound/dp/B000ASBCK4/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1409267495&sr=8-11&keywords=12+inch+dewalt

Normal scratches that shouldn't be there should be easy to see without any inspection light. If your expectations are that the paint will be flawless and you won't accept anything less, I'm sorry but that is not realistic. Yes it's a new car. Yes you probably waited a long time. But realistically, there are high end car makers who's cars ship from the factory with holograms and micro marring.

This is the light I use:
Astro Pneumatic Tool 50SL Sunlight 400 lm CRI 97 Rechargeable Handheld Color Match Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CHP76CU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3S43AbYARM735

It's better than some random LED light you'd find at Home Depot, but not as expesive as a scangrip.

I'd 100% agree with the other answer here that a drill isn't the right tool for the job.

An impact driver, despite being called a "driver" is also much better than a drill for removing bolts too, with much more torque - they're not just for construction. The only reason I'd go for a drill over an impact driver is if you also do a lot of drilling that the B&D can't keep up with, although I'd note that you can get drill bits for an impact driver too.

This DeWalt is the same price as the drill above, with 3x more torque

I like this tool a lot, it works really well and goes when I need it to.

DEWALT DCF680N2 8V Max Gyroscopic Screwdriver 2 Battery Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DL7QDS2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8sFPyb38GPDTY

Do you plan on using drill bits more often, or driving fasteners more often?

If you are fastening, get an Impact Driver:

https://smile.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF885C1-20V-Impact-Driver/dp/B01LBT3AZU?sa-no-redirect=1

If you are going to be drilling more often, you could get a cheap corded drill, or either of the drill drivers you linked.

I find that even the hardest drilling tasks, a cheap HF drill works fine. It's going to be as good as the drill bit, basically... But fastening takes a quality tool, and it'll depend on the strength of the anvil as well.

That Impact that I linked hits very hard, and it's an amazing tool.

You will get lots of opinions on this. A "chop box" is just that, and is excellent for construction work, decks, framing, etc. Interior trim work as well. That's about it in my book as far as woodworking goes(with a bow to Ana White and her incredibly ill conceived and designed construction lumber furniture); for finer work, furniture, etc., out of hardwoods or furniture grade softwoods, you're not doing yourself a favor by investing large dollars. Also, and again if you are not doing carpentry work, sliders go out of alignment much more than a non-sliding compound miter saw, and if you get a 12" non-slider, you are not losing all that much in crosscut capacity. So, for the money, a good quality non-sliding 12" compound miter saw by either Makita, Bosch or DeWalt would be my recommendation. About $200-300 cheaper than the sliding variety, which you really don't need. https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW715-12-Inch-Single-Bevel-Compound/dp/B000ASBCK4/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1539969968&sr=1-4&keywords=12+inch+miter+saw

Go to a pawn store or craigslist and buy two named brand saw for the price of one good new one. Use one for the driveway/masonry work, the other for woodworking.

To test them, spin the blade/arbor. Is it smooth or are the bearings clunky/shot? Turn the saw on, motor still sounds strong or is it struggling even with no load? What's the condition of the casing/shoe/plate.

If you're dead set on buying new off amazon then whats your price range. Corded or Cordless?

Skil makes a good entry level corded.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BD81BLO/

Personally I'll never use another corded circular saw again.

After owning 3 and having all of them fail in various ways over the years, I gave up on them. I have been using this now which is a few dollars more and I find it a more robust compressor.

https://www.amazon.com/WEN-6502-36-Inch-6-Inch-Sander/dp/B00NAXSYT8/

to expand on this.

you'll want to buy a cheap powered router, a straight bit, a couple of clamps and HEARING and EYE PROTECTION.
i can't stress those last two enough.

once you've done that,

1. you'll want to install a wide-ish straight bit into your router.
   
   
2. mark off the area you want to route (make the marks on the waste side, where you're cutting away, or the other side, but be consistent).
   
3. set the router so the bit won't cut, but you can see it in the flat shoe on the bottom. you want to line the edge of the bit to your line, then mark where the edge of the router is.
   
4. you want to clamp your metal brackets to that line as a straight edge and guide.
   
5. don your eye and ear protection. it's going to get loud.
   
6. take a ruler or use the built in guides to set the bit to the depth you want (1/8")
   
7. double check your clamps are tight and the edge guide is straight. measure both sides of it, don't eyeball.
   
8. place the router on the work with the bit hanging off the edge. then turn it on while steadying it with your hands.
   
9. cut along the guide and any remaining bits from the edge until you have a nice level area for your bracket.
   
   i recommend practicing on a bit of extra wood. get the idea down and then do it on your final piece.

Certain dremels come with a router attachment that can help you route a rabbet. Here is an amazon link https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-335-01-Plunge-Router-Attachment/dp/B0000DEZK4

With drill presses, I like the old adage: a bad drill press is far better than no drill press.

I'd go pick up some 100 dollar thing, or (depending on your needs), even a dremel plunge router attachment will work. I use one of those for drilling butt joint pilot holes. obviously not as powerful/deep/etc as a full press, but good enough for my modest needs.

Yep, this one to be specific.

I got this one. It's been working pretty well for me so far. Thanks for the link, I'll check it out.

I have one like this, that I got from my LHBS

If you absolutely need portability without cords, this is probably a good option. I'd use the 20v lithium batteries for best results.

DEWALT DCV581H 18/20-Volt MAX Cordless/Corded Wet-Dry Vacuum https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DD1UQ3Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hI8hybCFB7YM8

Link for US buyers: https://www.amazon.com/Tacklife-PCG01B-3-7V-Cordless-Rotary/dp/B075N68KRZ

Yeah, I'm starting to think the Hitachi is probably garbage. Which is a shame because I love everything else of theirs I've used.

As far as the Bosch, I looked at that one too. I was able to get that one tuned in nicely, but the big dewalt has more rip capacity, which would be nice for handling sheet goods. I know that was one of the things I hated about the HF saw was how little rip capacity it has. With the fold out wings on the Dewalt it's still compact but the rip capacity can be up to 35". This one's the big boy dewalt https://smile.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWE7491RS-10-Inch-Jobsite-Capacity/dp/B00F2CGXGG?sa-no-redirect=1

Granted the 25" Bosch capacity is still 9" more than than the HF saw, so there's that.

I have this Bosch trim router, and I have been pleased with it.

It is pretty light weight, and I like the way the design of the base allows you to easily handle it with just one hand. Bit changes are easy, and height adjustment is smooth and convenient.

I haven't had a need to adjust the speed, so I think if I were to do it over, I might have considered getting the one without the adjustable speed.

I use it primarily for round over and chamfer, but I also use it for skinny dados (like for a drawer bottom).

One thing to remember is that these pony routers only accept quarter inch bits, so if you have been collecting quality half inch bits, you will need to re-buy any that you intend to run in these machines.

It doesn't come with any dust collection ability, but there are a variety of add-ons you can buy if that is important to you.

Routers have a pretty wide price range. People generally like Bosch for these kind of detail and precision things, sanders, routers, etc.

Bosch 1-handed 1hp for $99

Bosch big mama 2.25hp for $207

Have you read this guy's evaluations?

New Woodworker Routers



If it were me, I'd buy new only things you intend to keep for a lifetime, and buy an appropriately powerful and versatile tool. For instance, a compound mitre/chop saw can be had from DeWalt with MOST of the features except sliding to cut really wide boards for about 200 bucks, and it would take you awhile to outgrow it. Same with router. If you can afford this big honkin' Bosch and it does what you want, consider acquiring it for your 'lifetime' stable.

If you need a tool for a specific project but aren't sure of its general applicability, you should look on craigslist, particularly at estate sales, or consider Harbor Freight.

This is the Bosch variable speed router I have & it works a treat. Just remember that any router is typically too fast to be effective at cutting metal but fine for wood & plastics.

Astro Pneumatic makes lights for the auto industry.

This one is perfect for you,

https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-Tool-65SL-Rechargeable/dp/B01JBJVC1Q/

but they have others if very high CRI (color rendering) is important:

https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-Tool-50SL-Rechargeable/dp/B01CHP76CU/

That has 97CRI, which is practically as high as the flashlight industry makes at the current time.

If I was going to buy another compressor I'd probably get a Makita.

http://www.amazon.com/Makita-MAC700-Big-Bore-Compressor/dp/B0001Q2VK0/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1374779714&sr=1-1&keywords=makita+compressor

http://www.amazon.com/Makita-MAC2400-Big-Bore-Compressor/dp/B0001Q2VPK/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1374779762&sr=1-2&keywords=makita+compressor

http://www.amazon.com/Makita-MAC5200-Big-Bore-Compressor/dp/B0001Q2VPU/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1374779762&sr=1-3&keywords=makita+compressor

As it stands they have great CFM flow and are relatively overbuilt.

If you're doing just basic construction, I wouldn't splurge too much on the circular saw. I've had this saw for years and it hasn't failed me yet.

What you do need to invest in are solid blades. I've been a fan of Freud Diablo blades myself and they last quite a while. Just this past weekend I was ripping sheets of plywood with the aforementioned saw & a 60T Diablo blade. The results were fantastic.

We have this one at our shop: http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF610S2-12-Volt-4-Inch-Screwdriver/dp/B0043XX872/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367779737&sr=8-1&keywords=DCF610S2

I bought it so one of my techs wouldn't have to use a regular hand screwdriver to remove and replace 160 screws in order to get 40 serial numbers that we should have had in the first place (on 40 wall-mounted AV plates). We use it for cases, racks, projector mounts, etc. We don't usually use it on anything delicate, but the LEDs are rather nice for shedding light on an issue.

I worked as a warranty field service technician for Dell for half a year, and probably the best tool purchase I made was my DeWalt gyroscopic screwdriver (https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF680N2-Gyroscopic-Screwdriver-Battery/dp/B00DL7QDS2). A lot of people are (rightly) wary of using an electric screwdriver on electronics, but that electric screwdriver in particular is actually really well suited for the task — the gyroscopic control scheme makes it super easy to control precisely and gives plenty of feedback, plus the clutch actually goes down far enough to be useful.

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-335-01-Plunge-Router-Attachment/dp/B0000DEZK4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1xpWCpvsoEU

Or one of these...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DD1UQ3Y/

This vac is the one I have and is half the price.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ULBA4W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also have an old house and a young kid (7, 4, 2). My toddler has gotten a positive lead test after living here for about a year. I work from home, so he's basically here with me 24/7. 7 micrograms per deciliter, which is two over the current limit. For what it's worth, the old limit was 10 (changed in 2013) and neither the Department of Health or his pediatrician is particularly concerned.

He's getting a second test in a couple of weeks, which will be about 3 months since his initial positive test.

I had knob and tube replaced, which involved cutting into all the walls. Dust was everywhere and nothing was sealed off when the cuts were made in the walls. A cleaning service did come out and clean the entire house after the renovation was complete, which took 3 full days. Since the positive test, I've hired a cleaning service to come out every other week, since one of the main recommendations is to wipe down surfaces that might be contaminated with lead dust.

>Pumping air into it via a turkey baster

that visual just made me giggle.

it all depends on how much head room, and what container you have.

Shaking could give you a geyser, adding air via a turkey baster wouldn't likely do anything, but you could use it to stir slowly for a bit.

If your in a bucket and have good headspace, you could hook this up to a drill and give it a few spins mid bucket.

​

edit: wasn't done... hit save to soon.

No, I didn't include the saw in the price since I'll be using it for plenty of other things down the line. That saw was a little over $200. You can find it here.

Assuming hiring out remediation isn't feasible: isolate the area with plastic sheeting and tape (cover vent registers, too), turn off the HVAC, keep everything damp to minimize airborne fibers, wear Tyvek coveralls and an N100 mask, and clean up after demo with a RRP rated HEPA vac (surprisingly affordable). Double bag your waste, change the furnace filter after, and dispose of everything at a C&D landfill (they'll usually charge a small fee... $20 or so for a truckload).

Harm from asbestos comes from years of occupational exposure, and mesothelioma diagnosis is rare even among at-risk groups. You'd have to hoot lines of brake dust to even slightly increase your risk of cancer.

Video games rock!

and um... maybe a Skilsaw takes a lot of skill to use?

You may want to invest in a mitre saw. Cheaper than a table saw but better than a handheld circular saw. This is the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW715-12-Inch-Single-Bevel-Compound/dp/B000ASBCK4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524781731&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=dw715&dpPl=1&dpID=51sL-KnayUL&ref=plSrch

I don’t own a table saw, but this (http://www.woodworkerswebsite.com/Miterstand.html) portable mitresaw stand is on my list to build this summer.

I would assume that the cnc aproach can work with plastic prints as well, but you will have to watch out for the heat produced by the friction again. So you would need to spin at a low speed in order to avoid melting the print.

I personally recently tried this mini rotary tool. At speed setting 1 it's slower spinning than the big one I have and that helps to not heat up the plastic as much, so it doesn't melt
https://www.amazon.com/Tacklife-PCG01B-3-7V-Cordless-Rotary/dp/B075N68KRZ/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=Tacklife+mini&qid=1563179042&s=gateway&sr=8-9
You can even use regurlar size tools, as it has 2 fittings.
I also bought some of these which seem to work well with it.
https://www.amazon.com/Breynet-Sanding-Polishing-Grinder-Accessories/dp/B07GJKY5PD/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=dremel+600+grit&qid=1563179279&s=gateway&sr=8-4

​

I haven't used it for anything serious, just tried it on some old prints I had laying around, but it seemed to work fine.

They each have their purpose. For less than $200 you can have all 3.

https://www.amazon.com/Skil-5480-01-Amp-4-Inch-Circular/dp/B000P9H4VO

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-PCE345-6-Amp-Orbital-Jig/dp/B00OZEUL7Y

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-PCE606K-Oscillating-Multi-Tool-Accessories/dp/B00L47A9CC

I can unscrew the legs. I don't know if that would make it less sturdy. I was thinking of just trimming the edges, but they only come out to an inch. I have about 8 inches to spare on the other end: Imgur

How much do you think I can cut without messing up the balance?

And would one of these saws do?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-12-Amp-7-1-4-in-Circular-Saw-
CSB124/100634339
http://www.amazon.com/Skil-5480-01-Amp-4-Inch-Circular/dp/B000P9H4VO/ref=lp_552922_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1410487729&sr=1-1

Do I need to buy a higher toothed blade?

I can also replace that side of the table with this http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/00251338/ and these: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/30264301/

But then the table could only sustain 50 lb instead of 170.

You can get an attachment for the Dremel that will let you use it like a mini-router.

The secret to punching the cap is a wine whip like THIS You want stainless steel as the plastic one with the rubber stopper tends to leave rubber flakes in your carboy...not all that pleasant.

I just picked up this for my vehicle. Still haven't had the chance to try it on my car, but around the shop it's not bad.

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCV581H-20-volt-Cordless-Wet-Dry/dp/B00DD1UQ3Y/ref=dp_ob_image_hi

if you had a dremel, it has a router kit

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-335-01-Plunge-Router-Attachment/dp/B0000DEZK4

and a cheaper one that usually comes with it, for like 6-7 dollars

but ive only used it for smaller wires, ill be ordering that bigger one since it has a guide

I don't think you'll find anything decent in that micro size. Most of the good ones are 1/4" hex drive.

I've tried the Dewalt 12V, the Hitachi 3.6V, and the Makita 12V.

The Makita was my favorite and that's the one I kept. Most people in R/C like the Hitachi the best because the clutch has a slightly lower setting than the other 2. My Hitachi arrived with a defective power switch, so I returned it. I like the more traditional gun style of the Dewalt and the Makita, which also have the variable speed trigger. The Hitachi was just too long and cumbersome.

The Makita has a 2-speed gearbox and a better (lighter) clutch than the Dewalt. That's why I kept the Makita.

Not following the laminate idea, care to explain further?

Good idea about jigsawing a template and then routing. However, my one attempt, some time ago, to use a hand-held router to cut a smoothly curving line in a plywood board ended in disaster. The tool (a relatively cheap Black & Decker) was probably partly to blame, however. Would this one suffice?

Sounds like this might be out of your price range, but I'm looking to pick up one of these compressors http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001Q2VPK/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_ap_am_us?ie=UTF8

I own a Makita MAC2400:

http://www.amazon.com/Makita-MAC2400-Big-Bore-Compressor/dp/B0001Q2VPK

I bought this because it is more powerful than the cheap big box pancake compressors while still being small and relatively portable. I mostly use it for cleanup and light air tool use, inflating tires, etc. Another thing I like about it is that it is very quiet compared to most compressors.

Hard to go wrong with the Dewalt read the 1st review, by a high school shop teacher.

Also I don't understand the people here that never use one of these, or thinks it's too dangerous. How on earth do you cut things to length; especially long stock?

Also as OP stated if he is looking to prep kids for a trade, general construction is much more employable than fine WW, getting familiar with this tool seems would seem to be a necessity.

well it really depends on what size the knife is and what size the grinder is. I have a Six inch Hico bentch grinder and You cant properly shape anything bigger then about a overall length of 9 inches you end up bumping into the other disk. also you risk injury trying to grind something bigger and I have the scars to show it.
you can get wheels between at least 46 and 120 grit. i think i have seen 150 grit wheels but am not sure on that.

However you can get a small belt sander starting at about 92.04 on amazon. It's the same thing as a belt grinder, it just depends on the type of grit used for the belts.

Here is a link to that 92.04 plus tax belt sander. It also has prime free shipping so you can get it in two days. https://smile.amazon.com/WEN-6502-36-Inch-6-Inch-Sander/dp/B00NAXSYT8/ref=lp_552882_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1474260263&sr=1-1

hope this helps keep on making.

I’ve purchased about 4 or 5 Astro Pneumatic lights from Amazon. They work really well and the battery lasts quite a while. They have a magnetic base and they’re rechargeable. The old version is about $60 and the new one is about $80.

https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-Tool-50SL-Rechargeable/dp/B01CHP76CU/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=astro+pneumatic+light&qid=1562417705&s=gateway&sr=8-5

Would this do? It's in my upper max budget range... 80$ for a damn light ouch. Astro Pneumatic Tool 50SL

IMHO considering something like this will be used on every batch, I wouldn't hesitate to spend a little more on something I knew was made from the correct materials.

When you say whirlpool paddle, are you attempting to oxygenate or are you just trying to gather trub in the center of the kettle? If attempting to oxygenate, might as well just get a wine whip, e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Northern-Brewer-GK-FZ2V-0QIS-Stainless-Mix-Stir/dp/B0064OG79E/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=wine+degasser&qid=1568906877&s=gateway&sr=8-7 . Otherwise you can always use a spoon to stir the pot as it's cooling; the upgrade there is usually a pump system.

Amazing work. Do you think this is feasible using the Dremel 335-01 attachment?

I have a Craftsman pancake compressor similar to the Porter Cable you linked to. I would not buy it again. It's obnoxiously loud and I've been on job sites where we burned through two similar Bostitch models in a weekend. Oil-less compressors are generally a bad deal, IMHO.

If I were to make my purchase again I would spend a bit more and get the Makita MAC 2400. I bought one for a shop I managed and it was worlds better than my entry level POS.

I do use my compressor every time I'm in the shop, mostly for blowing air, so if you're on a budget I believe having a shitty compressor is better than no compressor at all.

Its this one I got on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-335-01-Plunge-Router-Attachment/dp/B0000DEZK4

if you dont like powery products (oxyclean) have you ever used one of these to mix with?

[mix stir tool] (https://www.amazon.com/Northern-Brewer-GK-FZ2V-0QIS-Stainless-Mix-Stir/dp/B0064OG79E) you can find them cheaper...

thats how i mix my oxyclean in when i clean a carboy, or my brew kettle.

I did mine with a $25 brad nailer from Amazon and 2" brads. It depends on how much you have to do. If you are a DIY person and can think of other uses for an air compressor (paint guns, tire inflation, cleaning, etc), I'd say it's worth it. I have this little baby air compressor and I love it because it's very light/portable and quiet. If you just have a single piece you can probably get away with a hammer but be careful of denting/marking the board. If you're doing more than say 10-20 linear feet of board I'd use a nailgun.

I have a few of These and they are fantastic. They come with two batteries and have really good speed control and adjustable torque settings. I even used this with a PH1 to take apart and re-assemble laptops. I have never stripped a screw.

Around the house, go with Hitachi bc its cheap but contractor grade is Senco.

The tiny little Senco compressor is awesome. It's a few bucks more than a bigger compressor of lesser quality but it is well worth the money and it's super light. It can easily keep up with a brad nailer and will work just fine for a trim nailer if you don't mind waiting a few seconds after a series of shots. (Do yourself a favor and tape up the soft handle material with half a roll of electrical tape.)

I use the Hitachi DB3DL2 3.6 Volt Lithium Ion Dual-Position Cordless Screwdriver for any non drilling application.

The interchangeable battery, variable speed, and a torque that has a much lower range than a drill is great. I have been using it for years for IT work, maybe it will work for electricians as well.

+1 for Dewalt. I've got both the 12v and 20v versions and also the Impact drills. You can get pretty good deals the larger kit you buy.

I also like my Hitachi DB3DL2 which is more agile but less powerful.

I got WEN 6502 4 x 36-Inch Belt and 6-Inch Disc Sander with Cast Iron Base

Maybe not the best one but good enough for a weekend warrior.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAXSYT8

I think we’re talking about different tools. This is my screw gun. At $97, I don’t think it’s that high end a tool.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0043XX872?colid=&coliid=I39YDGY165O97S&ref_=hit_wr_dt_vr_md_pt_mobile

I’m not trying to say you’re saying anything bad about anybody. My whole point was owning your own tools is still a level of “wealthy” that not everyone has, well before the “pay someone else to do it for you” wealthy.

Would something like this https://www.amazon.com/Tacklife-PCG01B-3-7V-Cordless-Rotary/dp/B075N68KRZ/ref=mp_s_a_1_10_sspa?keywords=dremel&qid=1559086310&s=gateway&sr=8-10-spons&psc=1
be able to do the job?

So air nailers actually take very little air... Especially anything besides a framing nailer. Brad nailers, 16 gauge, and 15 gauge all take surprisingly little volume.

The other air tools you mentioned, especially the sander, take a lot of CFM, but I'd you want something that just works well for nailers I would strongly recommend the senco 1 gallon. It is damn near silent, and super light. Easily keeps up with a 15 gauge nailer.

I actually purchased the 8 gallon hotdog Husky compressor you linked (still have it) and then bought the senco because I needed to work in a tiny attic. I have literally not used the bigger compressor since I bought the little, super quiet one.

Just saying judge your needs and realize how nice it is to be able to grab a 20 pound compressor super easily, plug it in and use it 30 seconds flat.

Senco PC1010 1-Horsepower Peak, 1/2 hp running 1-Gallon Compressor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AQK78/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LG22CbXV7RXKK

you can buy this bench sander for the same price and it won't be all used up. and ryobi is about the same level of quality.

1. Cordless Driver http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF680N2-Gyroscopic-Screwdriver-Battery/dp/B00DL7QDS2
   
2. RJ45 EZ Crimper http://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100054C-Clamshell-EZ-RJPRO/dp/B00939KFOU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1423770419&sr=8-3&keywords=rj45+EZ+crimpers
   
3. Heavy Duty Scissors http://www.amazon.com/Clauss-18081-Titanium-Adjustable-Ultraflex/dp/B00270XY1I
   
4. Folding Box Cutter http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWHT10035L-Folding-Retractable-Utility/dp/B0051QIBGI
   
5. USB Serial Adaptor http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-USA-19HS-High-Speed-supports/dp/B0000VYJRY
   
6. Flush cut snips http://www.amazon.com/Xcelite-2178M-Heavy-Duty-Shearcutter-Diagonal/dp/B002M6U5JG/ref=sr_1_10?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1423770726&sr=1-10&keywords=flush+cut+pliers
   
7. RJ45 Couplers http://www.amazon.com/Connector-Modular-Network-Coupler-Adapter/dp/B00K836DHI
   
8. Fiber cleaning Tool http://www.fiberoptics4sale.com/p/6210MF.html?gclid=CjwKEAiAgKu2BRDu1OGw3-KXokwSJAB_Yy2Qe4jogMWd-DK7Gz5p5LfMkTCwda6IBgaEzluP7vm-ARoCl-7w_wcB
   
9. Hex bit set http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW2166-45-Piece-Screwdriving-Set/dp/B002JWSNIS
   
10. Light Meter http://www.amazon.com/Optical-50dBm-Locator-Male-LC-Adapter/dp/B00D6BVRN4
    
11. Multitool http://www.amazon.com/Victorinox-Swiss-Cybertool-Pocket-Knife/dp/B00005ML8H
    
12. 1m SingleMode Simplex x8
    
13. 1m SingleMode Simplex x8
    
14. 1m SingleMode Simplex x8
    
15. 1m Multimode Simplex x8
    
16. 1m Multimode Simplex x8
    
17. 1m Multimode Simplex x8
    
18. Fiber Couplers SC/LC x8

We're doing a bunch of Ikea cabinets on one of our properties. I went with the 12 volt Dewalt screwdriver kit. It's light enough that my wife can work with it without getting worn out, the torque is adjustable and it comes with two batteries so we're never out of a charge. It's worked great for the Ikea stuff and I've also used it to screw in two and three inch #8 flathead wood screws any number of times without any issues.

[Update]. based on research and reviews I went with a this model Makita

This bad boy right here.

https://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-DB3DL2-Dual-Position-Cordless-Screwdriver/dp/B004Y74AU6

​

If you are trying to complete repairs in a hurry at the track, build a kit without wearing your hands out, or just want to get a lot of work done in less time, this thing is a must. absolutely love this tool.

https://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-DB3DL2-Dual-Position-Cordless-Screwdriver/dp/B004Y74AU6/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1496247149&sr=8-14&keywords=powered+screwdriver
has a torque limiter, and has 2 batteries, a case and a charger. I also carry an impact driver for stubborn screw removal and a hammer drill for installing external antennas for outdoor WAPs

I assumed he meant parallel to the edge, but here's that base - mine came with the dremel kit I bought years ago. I ended up adding a drill press base for it to. I don't use it much anymore, but 5 or so years ago I had no router, no drill press, really very little in the way of power tools other than a drill and a skillsaw. for about $100 I snagged a kit that let me do all of that stuff with varying degrees of effectiveness... all much better than I could do them before. it sounds like something very useful for OP which is why I suggested it.

The resin on the surface is uneven?

Are you doing a lot of this? Then you might want to buy what I bought

It'll take off a few MM of resin in about 20 seconds.

I think you also learned a lesson about, "Practice on one piece first, until you learn what you're doing." Also, here's a polishing tutorial

Just used the Astro Pneumatic Tool 50SL.

100% recommend.

APT 50SL

EDIT: Only about $60 on Amazon.

I bought one of these a while back, and it's great for this sort of work. It's cordless, and much smaller and lighter than a dremel. You can easily hold it like a pencil for really precise control. Obviously it doesn't have to power to do a lot of the stuff a dremel does, but for PCB work, it's perfect.

The DCF682 is the wrong tool for the job. You use the DCF680 and put the clutch on 1.

DEWALT DW734 15 Amp 12-1/2-Inch Benchtop Planer versus [Grizzly G0832 - 13" Benchtop Planer](http://www.grizzly.com/products/13-Benchtop-Planer-with-Built-In-Dust-Collection/G0832?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIp4u-1svQ2QIVBY3ICh2K7QFUEAkYASABEgKRE_D_BwE
). Ignoring the cost, which would you choose and why? Seems like the DeWalt is the more practical choice (more horsepower, cuts per inch, rpm, etc.), but there's just something that draws me to Grizzly.

Hands down the best one for very low torque applications. I use it for work all the time on boards on the lowest setting.
Hitachi DB3DL2 3.6 Volt Lithium Ion Dual-Position Cordless Screwdriver Kit (Lifetime Tool Warranty) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004Y74AU6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_C0ZMAb9C9BN9D

Yea, I use it all the time for lots of things besides the occasional cleaning of my desktops and laptops. Such as maintaining the air in my tires, cleaning the garage, cleaning the inside of my car, and dusting yourself off after doing the yard etc. You might look into just getting an electric air pump if you don't much need for a compressor other than cleaning electronics.

• edit - oh I thought you said would you recommend. I dunno what air compressor would work best for you. The one I'm using is pretty old. I usually just go on sites like amazon and google shop and read reviews when I want to buy something decent.
  
  This: http://www.amazon.com/Viair-00073-Heavy-Portable-Compressor/dp/B0012WHBSO/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1345955120&sr=8-6&keywords=air+compressor has decent reviews
  
  as well as this: http://www.amazon.com/Senco-PC1010-1-Horsepower-1-Gallon-Compressor/dp/B0000AQK78/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1345955120&sr=8-12&keywords=air+compressor
  
  not sure what exactly will work for you.

I just bought a planer from amazon. DEWALT DW734 15 Amp 12-1/2-Inch Benchtop Planer. Amazon is selling it at $360 plus an additional $25 off if you spend more than $100 on Dewalt products. That will bring it down to $335 before taxes, $355 after. It's $400 everywhere else before tax.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW734-2-Inch-Benchtop-Planer/dp/B0000CCXU6

I'm new to woodworking so I don't have a lot of experience and have only tried a handful of things. What I noticed is that a planer will always be helpful or needed in most projects. I could be wrong and there could be other ways to accomplishing the same thing using different tools. That's just been my experience so far.

What is your budget?

Here is my suggestion. Forget about getting hand screw drivers; IMO, waste of money unless if you are an electrician or need to pry something, they are bulky and waste time. I would suggest spend a few extra dollars and buy a electric screwdriver like this or an 12v impact like this with a bit set like this. Bit sets are great because your don't need to gave a bucket of screw drivers laying around and you with have every bit you need in a small form factor.

If our budget is tight check your pawn shops often and look for NEW or LIKE NEW versions of these tools. You can find them for cheap. Remember these tools will last you forever.

Price History

• Tacklife PCG01B 3.7V Li-on Cordless Rotary tool -- Three-Speed with   ^PureLink
  ReviewMeta: ★★★★☆ 4.2/5 from 512 valid reviews
  CamelCamelCamel - [Info] │ Keepa - [Info]
  
  _
  Don't make a Rookie mistake, check the prices.
  ^(Info) ^| ^(Developer) ^| ^(Inquiries) ^| ^(Support Me!) ^| **[^(Report Bug)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&subject=Bug+Report&message=%2Fr%2Famazondealsus%2Fcomments%2Fe3ergy%2Fcordless_rotary_tool_37v_expires_1129lighting%2Ff92khsc%2F%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0APlease+explain+here+what+you+expected+to+happen%2Fwhat+went+wrong.)**

The difference between good mead recipes and bad mead recipes is basically just nutrition. You take a gravity reading and adjust nutrition from there, or you target a OG in the first place. Nutrition is covered pretty extensively on the wiki, if you go and poke at it and don't understand I'll help you with whatever you need.

The ones that collapse really just degas, they don't aerate that great and they are kind of expensive, but they are better than trying to shake a carboy for sure

https://www.amazon.com/Northern-Brewer-GK-FZ2V-0QIS-Stainless-Mix-Stir/dp/B0064OG79E/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1CT39XMP9GDQ4&keywords=wine+stirring+wand&qid=1574100177&sprefix=wine+stir%2Cindustrial%2C194&sr=8-6

the one i was talking about has the same design as mine just is corded also https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCV581H-20-Volt-Cordless-Wet-Dry/dp/B00DD1UQ3Y/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2O787N03KFUNR&keywords=dewalt+20v+vacuum&qid=1574111580&sprefix=dewalt+20v+v%2Caps%2C202&sr=8-5

"Walnut is poisoning" what I hear. My first boards had walnut in them and reddit gave me shit about it. I use them for myself so I don't care that much. I'm not eating the wood.

This planer: (I love it)
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW734-2-Inch-Benchtop-Planer/dp/B0000CCXU6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480052378&sr=8-2&keywords=dewalt+planer

The zig zag pattern was the hardest one. Yes it drifted up to 1/8th. They are not my favorite.

I used a table router on some of them for the edge, but I like the sander better. Something about it just felt more solid and manly.


Feel free to ask more questions. I only have about 50 boards worth of experience. So I don't know everything. I learned a lot doing this.

The desirable feature of the DeWALT vacuum is that it is small??

Edit to add: I see that it is both cordless and corded.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCV581H-20-Volt-Cordless-Wet-Dry/dp/B00DD1UQ3Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479658542&sr=8-1&keywords=dewalt+shop+vacuum

I have this guy http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW715-15-Amp-12-Inch-Compound/dp/B000ASBCK4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373516554&sr=8-1&keywords=Dewalt+miter+saw

Very happy with it. You can do a lot with a circular saw and a straight edge clamp. Good luck, build your tool collection over time, and buy the best you can afford. If you stick with it, you'll just want to upgrade later

We both have the same Miter saw on our wishlists!!!, but that's probably pretty unrealistic.

How about this incense collection. It could make both of our homes very peaceful.

Buy quality tools. I suggest staying away from craftsman as they don't hold up and are basically junk. Keep an eye on Craigslist. I picked up a $1000 jet table saw with an exacta fence and a built in router table for $100. For your table saw I suggest investing in 2 good blades and a dato set. All 3 should run you less than $200. I like Freud blades. As for routers most are going to recomend one with a 1/2 collet but I would hold off on that at first and pick up a multi speed palm router. I have this one: http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PR20EVSK-1-Horsepower-Fixed-Base-Variable-Speed/dp/B000ANQHTA I absolutely love it and I know they hold up to heavy use. You can make a table for it with a peice of 1/4 Baltic birch of mdf core ply. As for a sander a 5in random orbit is a good starter sander and they can be affordable. Chisels are easy to come by, keep an eye out at garage sales- you can allways sharpen old ones and typically they are better quality than the crap sold at the big box stores anyway.

I am a finish carpenter and cabinet builder, my little business builds train tables and can be found here: http://www.modelrailroadbenchwork.com

If you are jsut looking for a planer, why not a 12 1/2" DeWalt?

I guess Bosch makes a nice smaller one, anyone have any experience with this router?
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PR20EVSK-1-Horsepower-Fixed-Base-Variable-Speed/dp/B000ANQHTA

Im new to woodworkong. Two weeks ago I bought the 15 amp Skil circular saw and have only been cutting 3/4 inch thick plywood so far without issue. I was trying to make Mathias wandel's sawhorses tonight. When I was trying to make the 18 degree cut through the 2x4s the wood started smoking and I could barely move the saw. I stopped and tried once more with the same results and then quit for the evening. My stupid question is am I screwing something up, my saw can't handle the cut, or is there something wrong with my saw?

Thanks!

References:


Saw: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BD81BLO/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484700942&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

Sawhorse plan: http://woodgears.ca/sawhorse/

Holes saws are great and have their place, but the impact/ spade bit combo seem to be the ticket for 90% of my uses. Also, I didn't bother to look up what drill you have before, but now I see it's a newer dewalt. Get an impact driver, the difference is night and day. And if you don't have a spare battery, it's super convenient to not have to wait for a recharge while working. Bare tool $70 https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007ML7GDE/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1484804561&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dewalt+20v+driver&dpPl=1&dpID=415uG8%2BV3dL&ref=plSrch

Or with battery $100

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LBT3AZU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484804561&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dewalt+20v+driver&dpPl=1&dpID=51oJlJzJjIL&ref=plSrch

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000P9H4VO/ref=pd_aw_vtph_469_lp_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0V21MN5QWDQ133XJ63Q5

This picture?

There were a lot of deeper scratches in the paint. I didn't have the time to go after all of them either.

I have a Nikon D5100 and I was using this light, not my phone.

Up vote for Makita. That 300 dollar one looks real nice. Can't wait to replace my hf pancake.

I have a dewalt but it’s the $500 one that comes with the rolling stand. It’s been really good. Seems to stay square and can accept an 8” dado, although I haven’t gotten one yet. It might be worth the extra money. I know you say you don’t need a stand but if you have limited space, it’s very handy.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F2CGXGG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524355924&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=dewalt+table+saw&dpPl=1&dpID=51Kr7wFoSFL&ref=plSrch

More impressive is that if you touch your phone is just the right spots you can have this

26,000, three and a half ton lathe

delivered to your house from smile.amazon.com and the shipping is free!

Nothing special. Its one made for finish nailing.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AQK78/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Its fairly quiet and anything with a tank helps with moisture and pulsing.

This is the HEPA vac I saw recommended on reddit when I was searching for posts about lead paint remediation.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ULBA4W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you get it on jet.com, they have a 15% off coupon for new users which puts it around $150. I bought through Amazon because I need it here ASAP and jet.com usually takes a week or so to arrive.

I bought this planar about a year ago and have had zero problems. Just made a similar cutting board to this cutting board and I think it turned out better than the original. Never had a planar and used relatively flat stuff from lowes. It changed my life.

Sure, https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DD1UQ3Y?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000CCXU6/ref=s9_simh_gw_g469_i2_r?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=1656R9796A1531CYPJMX&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=2079475242&pf_rd_i=desktop

I must had posted in the wrong section.

I did some research on gunpla before I got ready to invest into it.

So I was wondering what airbrush should I pick up as a beginner.
I'm looking to use these airbrush for everything and finer detailing on models.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BROVIO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1451755063&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=badger+20+20&dpPl=1&dpID=31BZaLebDGL&ref=plSrch

The iwata eclipse is a recurring brand I've seen on bunch of blogs and seems to be the most popular

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BQKFAI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1451755023&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=iwata+eclipse&dpPl=1&dpID=41EIKj727OL&ref=plSrch

So which one should I buy? Can anyone recommend any of these?

Last at least the air compressor and other parts.
I've also seen this recommended on one blog:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AQK78/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Apparently it's better then a hobby's air compressor cause of the constant air flow you will get?
I was wondering what kind of hose and connectors I would need for either the badger or iwata if I picked up the air compressor.

Sorry for any spelling or grammar mistakes in advance as I'm typing on my phone.

I just got a new DeWALT tool too, my first table saw!!

DeWALT DWE7491RS

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F2CGXGG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My next tool might be this planer but really I think I should get a nice bandsaw before getting a planer (correct me if I'm wrong). Me thinks hand planing will be nice.. something that's actually done by hand and not some electronic.

I use one of these without issues.
Makita MAC2400

$1500USD for a saw with a stamped aluminum body and table, rickety base using wheels for half its contact with the ground, direct drive? Maybe I'm missing something. It looks like most other jobsite saws like this DeWalt.

Edit: it appears that I was indeed missing lots of somethings. Thanks for the education :)

If you start building PC's for other people, Or if you do already a variable speed cordless screw driver becomes an invaluable tool.

There's lots but this is a good one. http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-DB3DL2-3-6-Volt-4-Inch-Screwdriver/dp/B004Y74AU6

They come with an on/off switch.

The pancakes are quite loud.

Some models such as a Makita 2.5 HP are designed to be quiet.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001Q2VPK

This used to be under $300:

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D55168-120-Volt-Electric-Compressor/dp/B000HZI6F4/

The Dewalt 15 gal is pretty quiet but it has a large enough tank capacity that you'd likely be able to run it during the day and you'd have enough compressed air for the evening's pinning activities.

Supposedly quiet:

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWFP55130-Heavy-Quiet-Compressor/dp/B00HQYFZGM/

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF885C1-20V-Impact-Driver/dp/B01LBT3AZU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482982083&sr=8-1&keywords=dewalt+impact+driver