(Part 2) Best raw building materials according to redditors

This veneer had a 3m backing on it so it was as simple as applying a sticker.Here's what I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0161DR6IS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Glass fibers

Concrete plasticizer

Don't forget to look at tutorials on YouTube, and use the " brush on" method. Brush it into the corners and get all the bubbles out, let it dry to a semi-dry consistency, then fill your counter mold.

Quick edit: the plasticizer will make your concrete feel very "wet", but it's actually a water reducer.

https://www.amazon.com/Artificial-Grass-Synthetic-Fescue-Sizes/dp/B0716Y8VQQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1536803920&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=artificial+turf&psc=1

I filled all my cracks with Akona Concrete repair. No more weeds. https://www.amazon.com/Akona-Concrete-Repair-Tube-Pack/dp/B072KTKT7X, Just powerwashed the dirt out, let dry, then spread this in there.

Would this have enough blue for you?:

https://www.flooranddecor.com/porcelain-tile/lexington-blue-wood-plank-porcelain-tile-100378173.html

It's fireproof. More below:

http://www.jcfloorsplus.com/product/kauri-tasman-8-x-48-porcelain-wood-look-tile/

https://tilebar.com/brazilian-tiger-blue-8x48-matte-porcelain-tile.html

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N90RWTQ/ref=twister_B01MDUBUVQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.zazzle.com/old_cracked_blue_paint_on_wood_boards_tile-227593264982843140

Here's your starting point:

https://www.amazon.com/Boulanger-1248-BricoPine-Edge-Glued-Natural/dp/B01G5BVMHW/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1505795802&sr=1-2&keywords=lumber+48%22&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011

I use styrene thermoforming sheets:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JL63C7N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&fbclid=IwAR3PXpJ63HXVBxBC219D9ApE4xY2c7e5rGbemqg31Gg72IsYE6BKNnplGPg

It's a really easy material to work with. It comes in sheets of various sizes and thicknesses, you can use a variety of glues to bond it. To cut it you just need to score it with a razor and then snap it along the edge.

To hold the sheets together you can use Evergreen square tubing or L rails. These are made of the same kind of plastic and used by scratch model builders and model railroad folks. They come in a crazy variety of shapes.

Between the sheets and rails you can build damn near anything.

Almost anything should work. Cheaper but still strong would be fibreboard: amazon link and I'm sure you can get it at any hardware store. Even cheaper/thinner is chipboard which is pressed cardboard.

If you're even more low-commitment than that and don't care what it looks like in the back or how long it would last, I'm pretty sure any cardboard, flat plastic or any other sturdy flat material would work just fine in a pinch too with some glue or screws.

I'm guessing you're not the original home owner. The small hole on the exterior is most likely a hole cut to check for bugs and the opening near the window is due to in inept installer. Go to Amazon or home improvement store and purchase a repair kit. While your shopping also by caulk as the window frame near the window wasn't sealed.

"Mendyl Vinyl Siding Repair Kit"

https://www.amazon.com/Mendyl-Vinyl-Siding-Repair-Kit/dp/B0721JG1L3

As to the floor, it was probably a renovation where a underlayment wasn't put in to deal with uneven floors, the trim wasn't removed to install floor correctly and a lousy installer who didn't know how to measure wood who didn't know how or lacked quality in their installs. As you probably don't want to tear it up to correct there issues, then your resolutions are correct. Just take your time so it blends in cleanly.

I am surprised at how quickly they thaw. Maybe 15min to slushy-but-pourable, depending on sugar content? Microwaving can speed it up in a pinch. Unsure if the reheating impacts flavor, but I haven't noticed any change.

The bottles were just what I got when I searched on Amazon for "glass 4oz bottles". I got the brown ones because they felt classier, but I kinda feel that clear might be better to see how full they are and what's inside (by color).

https://www.amazon.com/Amber-Glass-Boston-Bottles-Ribbed/dp/B000AV16H0/

I just bought PSA maple veneer, but birch is cheaper.
https://www.amazon.com/White-Veneer-Rotary-Premium-Adhesive/dp/B00VES1I6C

The big trick is a laser cutter, which sometimes are available for use at schools, and some towns have makerspaces. If you happen to pull stuff together, I'd happily hit you with the files to make whatever labels you want (if you like my design). Wouldn't take me but 5 minutes! You could also grab a Cricut (https://home.cricut.com/) which is a razor blade cutter than can cut vinyl sticker stock (much cheaper).

There are plenty of websites where you can download a printable outlines to scale. Simply trace out the pattern or glue the stencil down. Use your jig saw with a fine tooth wood blade and take your time cutting it out. Drill holes in the corners where you need to sharp turns.

Go slow. There should be an adjustment on your saw for less aggressive cutting. The blade will stroke straight up and down.

Lastly I would finish the piece with some iron on edge banding. https://www.amazon.com/Birch-Wood-Veneer-Edgebanding-Preglued/dp/B01AYD52Q4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1537207528&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=edge+banding&psc=1

Good luck

Here's something I stumbled across that might help you.

You might also look into faster quick drying concrete.

I've done small casting in concrete but never in a rotocaster.

I would pay attention to:

Set time- Set is how long the concrete is going to take to set up so you're going to want to leave the rotocaster running for at least that amount time. And if you're looking for a high level of detail, you going to need to water it down even more, which adds to your set time.

Cure time- I wouldn't even take it out of the mold until it got closer to the end the cure time. That way you know it'll be safe to handle.

The speed of the rotocaster- As it drying, concrete will get thicker and likely to fold in on itself. But if it spinning fast enough, I don't think you'll have an issue.

Good Luck. :)

Also if you want reaaaal thin wood you may even buy wood veneer sheets (online is easy, hard to find in most stores, Home Depot didn't sell) , this is thin stuff you could cut with a razor and could probably attach to a substructure like chipboard (the back of a legal paper pad) for sturdiness.

https://www.amazon.com/Sauers-Walnut-Veneer-7-Piece/dp/B01B7BTWI6/ref=sr_1_29?crid=2EEUV2F42Y1QN&keywords=wood+veneer+sheet&qid=1573370847&sprefix=wood+ve%2Caps%2C206&sr=8-29

Very nice. If you want to cover up those plywood edges you could apply something like this.

​

Some like the aesthetic of unfinished plywood edges, but I prefer a more finished look.

Those bricks are for a fireplace not a forge and soak up heat instead of refracting it back to the forge. They can be used as the base for a charcoal forge. You want insulation or refractory fire brick. Kaowool works too, though most people coat it with ITC 100 not the stuff you link below which is also for fireplaces not made for the heat of a forge. Next your torch is only going to have enough output for a single knife forge. If that’s what you are going for great if you want to go any bigger or want to work a piece while the other heats then you’ll need a bigger torch. I’ve included a link to an instructable for a torch like mine. The main difference is I did not drill the hole for the propane pipe nipple in the reducer I bought a 2” nipple and drilled through the threads. Screw that in to tighten.

If you get the insulation fire brick keep it in compression or it will fall apart after a few uses.



http://www.instructables.com/id/how-to-build-a-gas-forge-burner/

https://www.amazon.com/GREENTHERM-30-LI-Insulating-Firebrick/dp/B0725Q98QP/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1523762897&sr=8-7&keywords=Refractory+fire+brick

Hey man, I know what it's like to make videos and get knocked on. I'm actually an 11 year manufacturing engineer who's poured molten metal on an industrial level, hundreds of thousands of pounds worth. I've Programmed and ran CNC machines, cut metals, drill welding, worked with water tools, abrasive tools, etc.

I've been trained by my grandfather who's been pouring metal since the 50's and my father who's been doing it since the 70's. Along with another half dozen men who all have a minimum of 20 years experience in industrial manufacturing. I'm going to give you some practical advice on how you could drastically improve your safety.

 

• I saw your DIY foundry once, you used cement in the slurry mix. I hope to god you aren't leaving that thing outside. Actually I hope you never use that furnace ever again. Good move using the aquarium stuff but cement is literally the worst thing you can use for anything with a flame on it. Cement is porous, it will absorb moister. If that thing ever absorbs enough and you fire it up, it WILL explode. If you are lucky it will just crack and i know you'll probably reply, "well I've been using it for ....". Ok, that's fine but what my father taught me the first time i stepped foot in our shop, "Dzuari, all it takes to kill you IS once." Don't ever fuck with mother nature or machines, you will always lose.
  
  If you are still using that furnace, please throw it out and remake it so my grandfather can stop rolling in his grave. Use one of these materials;
  
  Fine Kiln dried lapis sand
  
  Silica Sand 6lbs
  
  2200deg Rutland castable cement Fire Clay
  
  25lbs Rutland castable cement
  
  Kaowool Insulation Blanket
  
  Your best bet is to use silica sand but it's typically more expensive, however it will last the longest. The refractory is really where the durability is. I'd experiment with different types, you could even try adding in fiberglass reinforcement which may increase durability. Oh and here is a K-type thermometer. You can buy some thermocouple leads and figure out the math to accurately measure your burn temperatures so you don't over oxides your metals.
  
  And honestly, if it was me, I'd remove that video and remake it. Someone will watch that video, go out and buy cement and one day it will explode on them. That's an extremely dangerous way to make a furnace.
  
   
  
  
• Electricity and water. You can easily make your videos a whole lot safer just by distancing your water source from the electrical components with something like this for your Dremel. Pretty much apply this methodology to anything that involves electricity and water. The farther your motor and 120v input is to the water source, the better. You can make a quick plexiglass cover to help seperate it, make an extension shaft so the cutting wheel is further distanced and always wear heavy duty, insulated rubber gloves.. Hell you could even make your own retrofit abrasive water cutter with simple motor and pulley system. Matthais Wandel has a great belt sander build that wouldn't be hard at all to make your own water/abrasive wheel setup.
  
  The way you set up that cuttoff wheel.... smh. Please don't do that. Also I'm sure you already read the comments but there are times when to wear gloves and when not to wear gloves. You need to use a vice or clamp any time you can if it means avoiding using gloves when using a high-speed cutter of any kind. Especially if it's a wheel. Again, it only takes once.
  
   
  
  
• General safety. You should really read every single MSDS sheet you get on anything you buy retail or salvage. I've seen you light stuff on fire with zero respiration protection or use things that should have been done on a downdraft table or you were wearing improper clothing. Some of the stuff you work with can really fuck you up and you blatantly did not know of it's harmfulness or willfully disregarded it.
  
   
  
  Overall man I like your videos but in my opinion of everyone DIY'er i watch on youtube, you are hands down the lease safe. I usually spot something you did wrong in every video you post. Whether you feel responsible for your viewers and what they do with the information you give them, is up to you. I just figured I'd give you some pragmatic advice from someone who does this stuff for a living. I actually did a few youtube videos about 6 years ago on my Channel over industrial level green sand. I'm planning on quitting my job within the next mont or two to start my own workshop/foundry/DIY/Youtube/website marketing thing from scratch. Let me know if you have any questions and I'll gladly answer them.
  
  Here's some random tips;
  
  
  Don't use pop can metal for anything structural. It's 3000's series aluminum and it's mades specifically to be malleable. Good rule of thumb for scrap metal is, if it came from something cheap, the metals cheap. The highest quality aluminum you can get for CASTING is automotive parts. Typically made from A356-T6, very good aluminum. I see a lot of guys metal down "Aircraft" or "Aerospace grade" aluminum for casting thinking it's going to be strong. It will not be, 6000 or 7000 series aluminum is all wrought/worked aluminum. It gets it's strength from massive presses that squeeze the metal into shape. Once you heat it up it looses all that strength.
  
  T6 heat treat is the most common treat process for aluminum. If you are making something structural, heat treatment will greatly increase it's strength. But you have to use the correct aluminum for or it can't be treated (Automotive parts/A356). The process is usually 8hrs at 800-1000F then either a quench/2hrs at 300F or age hardening. With that K type thermometer you can easily set up your furnace to heat treat. Also, most aluminum age hardens once poured, usually around 21 days.
  
  Please never wear shorts ever again when working with molten metal. It's not that it will burn your leg. It's that it will hit your leg, then fall into you shoe. Then you have a burning foot and a ladle of molten metal in your hand. I've done this with high top boots and jeans on. My father would fire my on the spot if he ever saw me pouring with shorts on. I saw a guy poure about 2lbs of aluminum into his boot once. 6 years later his still on disability. Please don't ever do it again.
  
  
  Random informational videos
  
  Metallugical nature of Aluminum and crystalizing structures
  
  Grain Structure of Metal
  
  Cold work vs Hot work metal. E.I. this is wrought metal like 3000, 6000 & 7000 series aluminum
  
  Cermaic Material for Furnace Insulation
  

I purchased this and they even gave me an extra 2sqft free

Having made them before I would say wood veneers work quite well. They likely need to be one sided and you will have to play with your settings because it's fairly easy to burn through. That said I've had the best results with these two:

Cedar Wood Veneer and Veneer Variety Pack

The cedar veneers are super consistent in quality. Thin enough to feel like a biz card but thick enough that they are sturdy like card stock paper. Prints well and gives a reasonable differentiation between shades of light and brown so that you can get some complex imagery going if you feel like it. The variety pack comes with a whole selection of woods of varying color and quality. Some are full of burls which don't lend themselves well to lasering over, and others have such a grain pattern that distracts to much from small imagery as used in a biz card. On the other hand some of them have beautiful sheen as well as very striking color.

Here's an example of some done with two veneers from the variety pack.

Had high radon test, used this and it reduced from 6 something to 2 something from the same test kit.

Not sure when you say your replacing your concrete floor, I assume you meant you were pouring over the existing floor and not demo'ing all the concrete first. If so, use this product and put your mind at ease.

https://www.amazon.com/RadonSeal%C3%82-Deep-Penetrating-Concrete-Sealer-5-gal/dp/B013P3QE1W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481146030&sr=8-1&keywords=radon+paint

> Is amazon going to have a lumber yard? Plumbing fittings? Thousands of pieces of hardware? Home depot has over 1 million individual SKU's.

Well..