Best rc servos & parts according to redditors
We found 104 Reddit comments discussing the best rc servos & parts. We ranked the 62 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 104 Reddit comments discussing the best rc servos & parts. We ranked the 62 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Would you happen to have a parts list? I'd love to make a 3D Printed version of this, but I'm an extreme novice when it comes down to what hardware would be required.
https://moderndevice.com/product/educato/ Educato
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MLR1498/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_NEvwDbMGHPGY5 4x 9g Micro Servos (only 3 needed)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X8YZJ64/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_xJvwDbXWTXEAR 9v battery terminal
Not sure what you're using for the Educato power plug. Could you share the power adapter specs? None of the kits seem to come with it.
Looks like a 3 pin toggle switch? is that a 2 or 3 position?
This is easy. The key here is you don't need to control it (IE you don't need remote control access), you just need to have a timer that flushes it more or less once a day.
I'd suggest get an Arduino kit and a High Torque Hobby Servo.
Write the Arduino sketch like follows (pseudocode):
Activate ServoControl on pin number whatever
Set Servo to position 255 (full rotation one way)
Wait 1 seconds
Set servo to position 0 (full rotation the other way)
Wait 1 second (so the servo has time to move)
Disable ServoControl
Wait 86400 seconds (one day)
Goto beginning
Assuming you have not removed the servo connector from your esc's you could use a servo tester. You will need to supply 5v to the tester as well if you are using opto esc's
I got an Eachine 250 racer about a month ago. It has been a lot of fun, but there are a lot of details. My next racer will probably be a smaller/lighter 180 frame.
For FPV goggles I have three ideas. One, is get the status quo Fatshark goggles at whatever level you can afford. Two, get the HeadPlay HD goggles I got. Three, get the Avegant Glyph, which has the really nice feature of letting you pop them up and down without a band. I do really like my HeadPlay HDs, but they are big and bulky. I haven't perfected how to adjust the straps to get them to stay on my head well.
Arms, managed to break one without breaking a prop.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016Y5U1JO/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Capacitors, they pop off very easily. I lost a capacitor at the same time I broke an arm. Or a hot glue gun, I Highly recommend putting hot glue over the caps next to each arm to help avoid the loss in the first place. You want a low temperature hot glue gun to not melt any plastic or traces. I consider the capacitor issue a design defect, but you can work around it with hot glue. The original revision seems to have lacked the capacitors, from pictures I have seen online.
Capacitors for Eachine 250 racer:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00W8YYMZA/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Youtube video exampling how to solder them:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sLYVZUpL0K0
Get a Taranis X9D Plus. It is a great transmitter. Also get a X4R-SB receiver, and use SBUS. The D4R won't let you control the lights too, because it can't do PPM and PWM at the same time. You can control them with the X4R-SB, SBUS+PWM. SBUS has great latency, 5-10ms. I was recently talking to a sponsored racer who told me that PPM, which is supposed to be 27ms with the D4R, is really more like 100ms. It averages the four last frames together. This link includes a case and X8R, which I think will work as well as the X4R, but you should do the research. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014IYSXL6/ref=mp_s_a_1_5
To do SBUS+PWM, requires a special bind procedure. You want channels 1-8 as SBUS, and 9+ as PWM. The most relevant part is "jump S1&S3: SBUS, 9, 10, 11 or jump S2&S3: SBUS, 9, 10, 11 (No telemetry)" Here is a link that talks about it.
http://www.frsky-rc.com/BBS/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=6793
Small tie wraps like the ones already on the arms to hold the ESCs. You break an arm, and you will need to replace the tie wrap.
Soldering iron, solder, etc, because you have to desolder the ESC from the motor to replace an arm, and then resolder it.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BRC2XU/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Qtips and rubbing alcohol for cleaning. Mix the alcohol 50/50 with water. The flying field was muddy after lots of rain.
Carrying case of some kind. You don't want it banged around in transport, and same with the transmitter. It is best to get the X9D with the case, because people price gouge on the case stand alone.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ABQS7YI/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Batteries, you can burn through them very fast. But watch out for their height. I bought some of the new "Graphene" 4S batteries, and they are really too tall to fit. Some people remove the back LEDs to make battery installation easier.
Battery charging/carrying bags to help with uncontrolled fires started by batteries. I have two, one for charging, and one for carrying.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HTH78W/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
A battery charger if you want to use 4S batteries. The included charger is 2S/3S only. I have a Hi-tech X1 which will only charge one battery at a time. You can also get the X4 which will do four at once.
Battery charger for 4S batteries:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005LH3392/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
XT60 banana plug cable for charging with the above charger:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XBSBYCG/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
A V shaped antenna mount to get the receiver antennas up in the air. When over head the carbon fiber body blocks the signal well.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WV04P62/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
A voltage monitor so you know to land when your battery voltage is low. The video signal includes the battery voltage as part of the OSD, but I prefer LoS while learning to fly. It lets me keep an eye on where I am in relation to trees. On the other hand I have yet to find a good place to mount a voltage monitor. With the length of the balance cable on batteries you are likely going to need a balance cable extension for 3S and another for 4S.
Voltage monitor:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EXPPF80/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
3S balance cable extension:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XP4IO88/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
4S balance cable extension:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JBP1RGG/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Double sided tape to mount things on the top of the body, like the antenna mount and receiver.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009NP1JQC/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Small x-acto knife to help remove the double sided tape.
Electrical tape to tape down wires for lights and receiver.
Size 2.0 hex wrench for the frame screws. It will be needed to replace arms.
Scale that can measure grams. You want to knowing and control weight.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010HKEDPK/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Sunglasses to avoid problems seeing on sunny days. Lets say you are flying LoS, and look into the direction of the sun. You can't see the quad well enough to control it, because of glare from the sun.
ESC flashing adapters to change/upgrade the firmware. I am not sure these are the right ones for the ESCs on the Eachine. I think they are, but I haven't tried it yet.
Atmel socket flashing tool:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00V2W467I/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Atmel USB programmer:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0051SRZWC/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
USB cable to use with transmitters and simulators. It is best to learn the basics in a sim, instead of replacing lots of parts.
USB cable for simulators:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DFDTU9G/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Old post of mine on learning in a simulator:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Multicopter/comments/3zr8o0/cheap_fpv_acro_simulator_with_real_transmitters/
Be sure to set a fail-safe, which is very easy with the Taranis. I had a fly away with my first Eachine, because of a defective Spektrum DX6 and lack of fail-safe. After that I switched to the Taranis, which doesn't cost much more and has way more capacity.
The Servo can only move 1 degree at a time, while the stepper motor can micro step a fraction of a degree
(like up to 1/256th of a degree).
Distance * tan (degree * π/180 )Moving the servo 1 degree will move the point of aim 2.09 inch at 10feet.
While a high res pwm into a stepper could microstep 1/256 degrees giving you 0.0072 inch movement at 10ft
something like this will work to move 15lbs at a point blank. (21ft/inch torque) 1.9A at 5V maxhttps://www.amazon.com/ANNIMOS-Digital-Waterproof-Crawler-Control/dp/B07GK1G5FV/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=metal+gear+servo&qid=1555433131&s=gateway&sr=8-17
Pins 6,7,8 9 on the Duo have high res 10bit PWM output, which will let you run a single Stepper motor at 1/256 degree steps, However, the current provided by the Arduino Due will not be enough to run the servos.
You will probably need an external control / power board like this : https://www.adafruit.com/product/815?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIw62z04vV4QIVnbrACh35pQzWEAQYASABEgIBf_D_BwE with a 5A 6V Max,
this pwm board can be used as a motor controller that could handle two of the previously mentioned Servo's. You will need to solder on the extra cap for high power. I personally use this PWM board for every project I can because of how easy it is.
Edit: 0.17455064928ft = 2.09 inch
This doesn't completely get rid of the need for a lot of servos but these ones are cheaper
https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Helicopter-Airplane-Remote-Control/dp/B072V529YD?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1
You could use just a couple linear servos to raise and lower the entire pin art toy up and down and use 14 servos underneath to move the individual segments into place.
If you don't want to go this route, I don't know if you have access to other materials or a 3D printer, but you could construct something like this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=la30_i-NDFM
and use one rotational servo for each number and do the same thing where you raise and lower the entire pin art.
When you say the servo has stripped gears, do you mean internally, or the white servo arm that goes on top is stripped?
If it's internal, then another Hitec HS300 series servo should be fine as replacement.
The kit is wedge only for now, to increase winningness. But next week when the CAD becomes open source, you'll be able to download and print the files for the servo lifter addition and throw some of these on.
https://www.amazon.ca/ANNIMOS-Digital-Torque-Servo-Waterproof/dp/B0769DFJVK/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1538005906&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=20kg+servo
This is probably the best you can get for your budget
Esc is universal in general as long as it takes a 540 size motor essentially for your purpose, something like the hobbywing 1060 brushed esc is pretty great for motors down too 12 turns i believe.
Hell if you have an old electric esc you might be able too reuse that if its not burnt up from something in the past.
As it has a built in lipo cutoff you can set via jumpers if you don't want too use an older type of battery like a nimh or nicd battery.
Servo is fairly standardized as long as it pulls less then the esc Bec circuit which most do unless you are looking at very high torque or very high speed brushless servo's
Something like a half-decent 15 kg & fairly quick regular cheap servo should do fine in the rc10 as its rwd & fairly light in the front hell you can go with a cheap 8 kg servo if you want too heh.
This one is pretty good on reviews it seems & has plenty of torque & speed even for larger models, order 2x of these imo, you might want another one for something else later or in case one of them turns up doa, which is a bit rare but happens.
https://www.amazon.com/ZOSKAY-DS3218-Digital-Waterproof-Control/dp/B01MU7TQV8/ref=lp_2234131011_1_6?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1568730244&sr=1-6#customerReviews
When it comes too radios you wont need anything advanced really 2.4 ghz pistol grip radio with built in memory too remember other models & receivers like a flysky gt3b & perhaps 2 - 3 receivers extra for other rc's perhaps down the line & then just lower steering dualrate and throttle dualrate if needed & if the radio happens to have that
(Some cheaper radios don't have throttle dualrate but almost always has steering dualrate.)
Hey, another Canadian made basically the same question once before, here's my guide to a quick start on R/C drifting with a Tamiya TT-02D:
For 400 you can get a kit like a Tamiya TT-02D and all you need to get driving with it. The advantage of the TT-02 chassis is it has cheap and widely available spare parts, and it comes not only as a drifting chassis. The -D spec has motor cooling and slippery drifting tires included, but if you mount ordinary sticky rubber tires on it, it will work just fine as a racer too (I do that myself).
What you'll need:
-Basic tools to assemble the kit such as phillips head screwdrivers, allen keys etc.
-https://www.amazon.ca/58605-Nismo-Z-Tune-TT02D-Drift/dp/B00T2DKL5K/ref=sr_1_2?s=toys&ie=UTF8&qid=1513262988&sr=1-2&keywords=tt02d+kit Car kit - there are other bodies available in the starter kit, but make sure you get a kit that actually includes a body!
-https://www.amazon.com/FLYSKY-Transmitter-FS-GT3B-2-4Ghz-Receiver/dp/B00HNJNXVY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511338151&sr=8-1&keywords=flysky+gt3b transmitter and receiver set
Battery pack and charger set: https://www.amazon.com/3800mAh-rechargeable-battery-Tamiya-Charger/dp/B01HDKBRKG/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1511341916&sr=8-14&keywords=7.2+nimh+battery+and+charger
-metal gear servo for the steering: https://www.amazon.ca/ANNIMOS-Digital-Torque-Servo-Waterproof/dp/B0769DFJVK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1513263076&sr=8-7&keywords=metal+gear+servo
-Some lexan paint for the body in your colour of choice - I recommend Tamiya PS-colour
The total for all this is about 335 CAD if I'm not mistaken - and it is just about the cheapest option, I really spent a lot of time working out how to try out R/C drifting cheaply when I bought mine. You can get additional wheel sets and such from China on ebay very cheaply.
EDIT: The Amazon links are a reference just to show it can be done - you should probably take a look at some R/C dealers instead since they'll have all the things you might need later on and you'll know they can deliver :) Here in Europe I shop in 4 different countries to get the things I actually want...
Yeah that'll work for now, just be careful not to create a short. Seriously, please be careful. These batteries can dump a lot of current very quick and will burn you best case, worst case burn your house down. In the future you'll probably be better off to pick up something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Jrelecs®-Charging-Banana-Phantom-Battery/dp/B00XBSBYCG
On Amazon its cheaper to buy them in 2 packs than 1. Can get them much cheaper on somewhere like HobbyKing but with shipping it might be a wash.
If you want a no-programming solution, and a servo suits your needs, you could also get a servo tester
and a servo.
Or even a linear servo... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kCD_b7aXHgM
Two recommendations in this thread
Or just get a savox if you've got the budget for it. https://www.amazon.com/Savox-SC-1256TG-Titanium-Standard-Digital/dp/B004K3FCHO
9 volt and just some servos
Edit: 9-volt dc micro gear motors for drive and this servo for a duck!-like wedge https://www.amazon.com/SunFounder-Waterproof-SF3218MG-Digital-Aluminium/dp/B07VJG5QTJ/ref=pd_di_sccai_10?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07VJG5QTJ&pd_rd_r=119bd719-653a-48a6-9b8a-2aaa94c91292&pd_rd_w=BW0EF&pd_rd_wg=7OavN&pf_rd_p=6e941abd-b4a2-4c12-8143-c53200ac8e44&pf_rd_r=3XFN6KJXKBZ9KGZNJ0MR&psc=1&refRID=3XFN6KJXKBZ9KGZNJ0MR
https://www.amazon.com/Savox-SC-1256TG-Titanium-Standard-Digital/dp/B004K3FCHO
Hmm, can you give more detail on your clock?
I expect that 42 servos is 7 segments * 6 digits. It that your plan?
Typically cost $5 or more each, which makes your idea $$$
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I did a quick search and found this link, I can't vouch for the part or the vendor
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https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Helicopter-Airplane-Remote-Control/dp/B072V529YD
You can get 10 pieces for $18, less than $2 each
I really like this line -- Sold by Miuzeipro and Fulfilled by Amazon.
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Maybe these links will be useful as well
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SERVO MOTOR SG90 DATA SHEET
http://www.ee.ic.ac.uk/pcheung/teaching/DE1_EE/stores/sg90_datasheet.pdf
Arduino Tutorial: Using a Servo SG90 with Arduino
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SfmHNb5QAzc
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You will need some type of servo driver board. I suggest Adafruit or Sparkfun
I have that same rc. Good choice. I had to upgrade my servo in it right away.
I bought this and a huge difference
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07569WJ1M/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_j7MgDb31PAEPE
You don't even need relays or angle position sensor at all if you use servos
Typical servo: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0015H2V72/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1492882723&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=arduino+servo&dpPl=1&dpID=41bJ6ryi1oL&ref=plSrch
Smaller servos:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01608II3Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1492882723&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=arduino+servo&dpPl=1&dpID=51yFqbET2aL&ref=plSrch
Arduino uno: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008GRTSV6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1492882886&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=arduino&dpPl=1&dpID=51-rsyPvHOL&ref=plSrch
Bare microcontroller chip used on arduino (use this later in final build): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00V2DVNYQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1492882925&sr=8-11&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=atmega328p
Its probably worth it to get a decent transmitter. I would personally recommend the Taranis Qx7 but you could also buy a Spektrum Dx6 or a FlySky-I6. Keep in mind these use different protocols so make sure to get a compatible reciever.
A word about flitetest: Their power packs and speed build kits are kind of expensive as they use drone motors, waterproof foam board, and laser cutting. Their construction methods, while they make great flying planes, they are a bit involved (require curved, symmetrical cuts, a folding, sometimes soldering skill), and they are not durable in my experience (particularly their wings). For example, the Storch with PP-C would run $100. You can build a plane for ~$60 using Experimental Airlines methods(Not including reusable stuff like Transmitter and batteries).
I stared with an Experimental Airlines Noobtube and I would recommend either this plane or the EA Axon for any beginner. The Noobtube is a bit fast and has a front mounted propeller, though.
As far as gear, here are some components I personally use:
30A ESC
Turnigy 2826-6 2200kv
9g Servos ($1.80 each!)
Pushrods
6x4 props or even a 3-blade 6x4.
A couple more things you may find useful: servo wire extenders, landing gear, gift cards, and duct tape.
I run these Annimos servos and they are great and are super cheap. This one has twice the torque of the spektrum one
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076CNKQX4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wFoUDbWRP70K1
Get these cables https://www.amazon.com/Jrelecs%C2%AE-Charging-Banana-Phantom-Battery/dp/B00XBSBYCG/ref=sr_1_4?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1541257646&sr=1-4&keywords=xt60+charging+cable&dpID=41AnRIEx4yL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
Use those to plug in the yellow xt60 connector into the charger (btw you do have an appropriate power supply to connect the charger to the wall right?), and plug the white balance connector directly into the charger.
Yeah, buying battery chargers for stuff like this is a pain in the ass cause nothing for r/c cars and planes is ever easy or cheap.
In electricity, there's a lot of components that will require you provide a +5v DC signal, 5v is a standard that we've set. There's also a 3.5v standard which is more common in phones.
With the use of relays and additional power sources, you can control more power than that if you need to, though.
Just keep in mind that electricity is largely about tolerances. Just because you have a 5v line doesn't actually guarantee that it will always be 5 volts. There's a range that is thought to be acceptable. Seeing 4.8v, if I recall correctly, is still a "5v line"
Here's a pretty standard servo. It's not an "arduino servo" it's just a normal electrical component that when you apply voltage to its line, it operates. Since it operates in the 4.8-6v range, you can absolutely control this servo with the power from your arduino.
These are the servos I’m talking about
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07KKCPC26/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=A2GPFK8B5LR2OX&psc=1
I’m also trying to conserve space so having one power supply would be pretty nice
I think you can run one off the 5v and ground if you power the board through usb. I was wondering how you could power two of them
I looked up your Lego Mindstrom EV3 motors and they can support 20Ncm = 2kgcm, so they can carry around 2kg.
I use lewansouls, they're pretty strong and they're 15kgcm at 6V motors:
https://www.amazon.com/LewanSoul-LDX-227-Standard-Digital-Bearing/dp/B077TXLWZS/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1525395925&sr=8-7&keywords=lewansoul
Also I've used this and it's pretty strong too:
https://www.amazon.com/LewanSoul-LD-27MG-Standard-Digital-Aluminium/dp/B07569WJ1M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1525395925&sr=8-2&keywords=lewansoul&dpID=51XF68PmHqL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
Yep, so far only 1 out of 12 has failed. That was due to a high speed.impact. so far waterproof,. ANNIMOS 20KG Digital Servo High Torque Full Metal Gear Waterproof for RC Model DIY, DS3218MG,Control Angle 270°
Here is the mobile version of your link
I'm not sure how you are trying to attach the servo to a 1/4" rod, however it might be a multi piece connector depending on application, here is an amazon link to a servo that comes with 5 generic connections that you can bolt a second clamp to.
if you are going to a direct connection to spin the rod, look at this
I am trying to find a couple that attaches to [this servo](http://YANSHON Digital Servo Motor Gear High Torque Servo, Control Angle 360, 25KG https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SMVFQCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hVB3DbFXXHQFQ) that can hold a 1/4" shaft. Everything I've read online says that if you count the teeth you'll most likely get the right coupler. It's a 25T but the couplers I order don't seem to fit. Any help would be appreciated.
Found it on amazon, and the specs show 25t, 5.9mm shaft. I'm not sure where you're looking, but online rc stores may be the key.
YANSHON Digital Servo Motor Gear High Torque Servo, Control Angle 360, 25KG https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SMVFQCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3UF3DbTYV7YQ4
Credit goes to my wife and her friend for the decoration. That was all faux fur from JoAnn's Fabric and acrylic paint. I did the frame and robot stuff :) I had to do a lot of work on the joints because they did not bend. I wanted it lower to the ground so the tail did not have to be so long and to give it a better look and more stability.
Dog skeleton (on sale right now for 10 bucks!):
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Home-Accents-Holiday-3-ft-Animated-Skeleton-Greyhound-with-LED-Illuminated-Eyes-6342-36559/206770838
Servos:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076CNKQX4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hardware:
Raspberry Pi 3 B+
Servo control: Adafruit 16-Channel PWM / Servo HAT (https://www.adafruit.com/product/2327)
UI: Adafruit OLED Bonnet (https://www.adafruit.com/product/3531)
I was able to stack both the servo control board and OLED Bonnet on the Pi. I love this OLED Bonnet because it has a joystick and buttons so it provides a mini UI. I wrote a menu program for the Bonnet that loads on boot and lets me start the program for the tail and do an orderly shutdown.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/SIKAF-MALL-Digital-Consistency-Controler/dp/B06WVM46KB&ved=2ahUKEwiowMasndneAhWPuVkKHTFtCmwQFjAAegQIBBAB&usg=AOvVaw1EAvUvcIBAQf07PF1_X-X8
take all screws out and make sure the front piece almost falls off on its own
Get a cheap servo motor
http://www.amazon.com/Hitec-31311S-HS-311-Standard-Universal/dp/B0006O3WVE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411634957&sr=8-1&keywords=servo+motor
hook up wires to motor,
probibly a 5V motor so connect 3 AA batteries together for a total of 4,5V, connect switch
when actor bangs tv, someone presses switch, servo pushes top off TV
Budget: 12-ish $
Great work!
I do agree, that the 'multi arm' approach is the way to go (EDIT: triple arm minimum, as I just did some testing and with only two arms there is really no way to effectively stabilize 'anything' that you are holding as the item tends to easily rotate out of control), unless you have access to a 3d printer and effectively free filament, etc.
The geared linear approach was done as a 'cheapest' first attempt to duplicate TempestVR's and tomotomox's work in linking a robot directly to VAM. After having done that, and then done the tcp/ip connection, I moved directly now to the multiple servo/axis approach. It is funny how much less printing will be required, lol.
Also, in ref to the geared linear approach, I was working on modifying the gear for the 20kg amazon servo I had bought DS3218MG ( https://www.amazon.com/ANNIMOS-Digital-Waterproof-DS3218MG-Control/dp/B076CNKQX4) as seen here ( https://imgur.com/a/OMaqHPL ), and per the dimensions in the images for the servo, the arm has a stated furthest hole of 23.5mm, turns out I had to do a few prints of test gears as the hole was actually at 24.5mm! Not to mention, where the central 'hub' is, it is different from the MG995R, so, that then now threw off the 'gearing' being properly mated and so then there is play between the rack and pinion, lol! With a multiple servo/axis setup, that wouldn't be an issue at all! The only alignment issues are effectively those due to the proper synchronized control of the 2+ servos.
I looked into using the ram mount too, and like it, but I think I'm going to go with this https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Monitor-Adjustable-Articulating-STAND-V001/dp/B00B21TLQU/ , it is meant for holding up 22 pound monitors, so I think it shouldn't oscillate too much while the robot is in motion. In addition it can be mounted to a desk, to the side of a bed, and has a nice long articulating arm and 75 and 100mm VESA mounts which will be easy to 3d print something to attach to. A non-clamped version that you could 'sit around' is here https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Computer-Free-Standing-Adjustable-STAND-V001H/dp/B01FE2BCR8/
So at this point, I'm currently printing the housing for the new multi axis robot for testing, it will be a 3-4 servo setup in the end, might have a few variants. Going to be using an adafruit servo hat https://www.amazon.com/2327-Raspberry-Servo-Development-Board/dp/B00SI1SPHS/ and a raspberry pi and the tcp/ip VAM connection.
Lastly, once I get the multiple axis setup, I will then move to the code/algorithms such that there can be a seemless transition from the VAM 'movements' to the new robot(s) based on it's features. The idea is to make all this as seemless and easy as possible for anyone to do themselves.
And all thanks to TempestVR for all his contributions, without him I wouldn't have done any of this!
Thanks! I was debating between those and those red metallic ones on Amazon but I think I'll just get the Towerpro ones.
Any chance you could link me with some lipo batteries as per recommendation? Im not to keen on soldering.
Edit: so i checked, and the kit does not come with a servo. Would this servo be okay? [servo](Futaba S3003 Standard Servo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015H2V72/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_paBhzbPF0JSN1)
Im on mobile. So formatting...
Haven't had any trouble with the smaller servos, but they really don't get used very often (maybe a half dozen times per run, if that). The servo I use now is this one: https://www.amazon.ca/ANNIMOS-Digital-Torque-Servo-Waterproof/dp/B0769DFJVK/
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I also have it in a 1/16 rock crawler. Strong (something like 2x the touque compared to the stock TRX-4 servo), drop in without mods, long cable that doesn't require an extension, and it includes a metal servo horn. I've bought several more and will be replacing the servos in other trucks as they die. I also own a $100 Savox 1210, which is still in the original box because the 20kg servo has been working so well. LOL
https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+control+motor+esc+with+arduino
These are useful for testing https://www.amazon.com/SIKAF-MALL-Digital-Consistency-Controler/dp/B06WVM46KB
As others have stated. Look up a servo tester like this one on Amazon. Simple, cheap, and effective.
https://www.amazon.com/ASMC-04B-Support-180kg-cm-Steering-Dedicated/dp/B07P5R7THY/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=ASMC-04B&qid=1558194247&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
Here ya go, direct replacement for the 2060 and 2065, and it's metal geared. 2 pack for $10 bucks. I can't believe how cheap these servos are, so be honest. Same servo horn spline count too.
A simple servo would do it; most have a movement range of about 120 degrees. Some like this have a much larger movement range https://www.amazon.com/Miuzei-Torque-Digital-Waterproof-Control/dp/B07HNTKSZT/ref=sr_1_25_sspa?keywords=servo&qid=1557374596&s=electronics&sr=1-25-spons&psc=1 those are cheap no-name servos but they have performed surprisingly well for me; if you want to get something expensive then HiTec is good. You can control it directly from the Pi if you want to, or you can use a dedicated controller board like a https://www.amazon.com/SunFounder-PCA9685-Channel-Arduino-Raspberry/dp/B014KTSMLA/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=servo&qid=1557374551&s=electronics&sr=1-5 which will sit between the servo and the Pi. The only concern is that the servo may need a maximum of 2 amps when moving, so you just need to ensure that the power supply for the system is sufficient - so a connection to a decent USB wall charger will be good, but a common PC USB port wouldn't provide enough power.
For the actual setup, consider where you actually mount the motor. You may not be able to attach it directly to the lampshade, but you may be mounting it to the table or base of the lamp and connecting it to the lampshade through a small rod. It's just one of the "oh, of course" things you'll run into when trying to bring the parts together. The pivot point for most lampshades is on the bulb, but you don't want to attach the servo to the bulb.
I’d start with the tires. Crazy as it sounds. Are the hubs 12mm hex or some pin type. The pin type wheels are getting harder to find. If you can easily replace the tires, I’d would do so and replace all the electronics too. Add some fresh shock oil and you are set to have some fun.
Cheap Amazon electronics: $164 plus battery of choice
Servo: $18
Motor and ESC: $46
Transmitter and receiver (tx rc): $48
Charger (any battery type): $52
These electronics are a “welcome to the hobby” kit. The transmitter can be used with up to 10 models by buying additional rx for $10 each. The battery charger can charge any battery type and is the cheap industry standard. You would have to decide if you want to go nimh or lipo. Either could be had for $30-$40.
The brushless combo will bring that car to life while hopefully being mild enough to not grenade your driveline.
Follow the directions and you'll be fine. You'll need a Phillips screwdriver to build it, and that's about it. If your Phillips screwdriver is one of those types with "bits", you'll need a regular one as there is a hole that those other ones won't fit in. Everything else should be included, including grease. You might want some threadlock for the metal to metal fastenings: https://www.amazon.com/DuraTrax-Pit-Tech-Threadlocker-2/dp/B0015H6DVC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1492756164&sr=8-2&keywords=hobby+thread+lock
You will need a radio, receiver, servo for steering, and battery and charger. You picked a non-performance model here, so you won't need high-end stuff. You could probably get by with a cheap Futaba servo: https://www.amazon.com/Futaba-FUTM0031-S3003-Standard-Servo/dp/B0015H2V72/ref=sr_1_4?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1492756615&sr=1-4&keywords=Servo
For radio and receiver I'm hoping someone else can help. I have a Spektrum radio and receiver that I like a lot, but there are cheaper ones - I see Flysky(?) thrown about here often.
For a battery, I recommend a 2S lipo pack such as this. A 5000mah pack will give you around 20 minutes of hard run time and maybe more. Pay attention to how the wires exit the pack! Wires that poke out the end won't work. Neither will the kind that exit the top. You want a pack with wires that come out the corner.
Shop around on the charger. Get a lipo balance charger. Maybe someone can recommend a good one for you as I've got a fairly expensive dual charger. Help me out guys!
I looked into the two brands you mentioned, and all of the Hitec servos only rotate 90º as opposed to 180º from the adafruit servos.
The Futaba servos seem a bit slower than the adafruit servos. (0.16sec/60º for adafruit; 0.19sec/60º for this Futaba servo)
I'm not sure if that speed difference will matter. I might end up buying that Futaba servo anyway. My only worry is that the Futaba servo from amazon doesn't look like it comes with all the extras that are in the adafruit pictures...is that something that comes with every servo no matter where you buy it from?
Go cheap futaba reciever and goolrc esc with a goolrc motor. Very affordable. Treat it right and it should last awhile. All purchasable on amazon. Don't skimp on reciever and controller sadness will insue. Same thing for servo go 3003 futaba. All affordable stuff even the knock offs are decent. Lowest grade but good stuff for the low price.
Reciever
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005EFZBB4/ref=sxl1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468889363&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65
Esc motor
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00Z9QF8UC/ref=sxl1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468889402&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65
Servo
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0015H2V72/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468889656&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=futaba+3003
Charger https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GYPG5JU/ref=sxl1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468893518&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65
My gool rc esc burned up after 6 or so runs. Got a better esc from them with 80amps and was very happy. But I'm pretty sure it burned up because I abuse the shit out of my cars and was running a 3s at very high gearing also was ramping my car onto my roof and it fell a lot. I really like goolrc product for price and quality. This is dollar store electronics. Pay any less and you are in toy range. Literally my goal was to go fast on a budget. Now not with the set up linked but with the companies linked I've gone 65 and the products lived to run again.
I've tried lesser electronics and was nothing but dissapointed. These products I have owned multiple and only lost 1 motor and 1 esc due to abuse.very happy and don't blame them for the loss. Gear this shit right and you are so good. Owned all these products no complaints