(Part 3) Best refrigerator parts according to redditors

Today, I built an RF cable by hand that required a half degree phase match with a different RF cable. This went into a radar that is sensitive enough to track beach ball sized things at 80,000 feet. I'm pretty sure I can put my own heat shrink on things.

Reservoir/dual pump combo. $250

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18384/ex-res-475/Alphacool_Repack_Dual_525_Acrylic_Reservoir_-_Clear_-_Dual_D5_MCP655_w_2_x_Alphacool_VPP_Installed_50025.html?tl=g30c107s152

GPU water block x 2

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21661/ex-blc-1563/EK_EVGA_780_Classified_and_780_Ti_Classified_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Nickel_EK-FC780_GTX_Classy_-_Nickel.html?tl=g30c311s1996

CPU water block $95

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16688/ex-blc-1180/EK_Supremacy_Universal_CPU_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Full_Copper_EK-Supremacy_-_Full_Copper.html?tl=g30c325s1118

G14 threaded copper couplers. 18 needed.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21616/koo-384/Koolance_G14_Fitting_for_10mm_38in_OD_Soft_Copper_Tubing_NZL-CU10.html?tl=g30c101s2076

120mm quad radiator x 2 $144.99

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16237/ex-rad-412/Alphacool_NexXxoS_Monsta_Quad_120mm_Radiator_-_80mm_Thick.html?tl=g30c95s570#blank

120mm PWM controlled 400 - 1500 fans.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16921/fan-1051/Noiseblocker_NB-eLoop_B12-PS_120mmx25mm_Ultra_Silent_Bionic_Blade_PWM_Fan_-_400_-_1500_RPM_.html?tl=g33c165s358

50FT 3/8" copper tubing

http://www.amazon.com/Mueller-OD-50-Refrigerator-Tubing/dp/B001JT6JEW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405623778&sr=8-1&keywords=3%2F8+copper+tubing

That is currently the setup I'm looking at for cooling. I have all the tooling to bend rigid copper lines to my whims. I have access to the demineralized water plant on a warship. The water that comes out of that plant is way more pure than anything you can buy online outside of science supply places. Hundreds of gallons of that stuff is literally free to me.

This is super common. Buy this, and then do this.

Easy peasey. You will want to just clean it because there will probably be no visible defects, but that has a success rate of about zero because the problem is the rubber has changed properties with age/use. I'm no longer an appliance guy, but I have changed about a gajillion of those.

Good luck!

For the my fridge with $50 filters, I found that the manufacturer makes a filter bypass that screws into the filter slot, allowing me to use an inline-water filter on the supply-line.

https://www.amazon.com/SAMSUNG-DA97-07365G-ASSEMBLY-MAKER-Original/dp/B002UQY3LE

That's what is in my GE fridge.

• Frigidaire - FFBC4622QS
  
• GE - GVS04BDWSS
  
• Danby - DBC120BLS
  
  I use a Digital Temperature Controller with a small chest freezer. Shop around for the freezer, I just used this one 'cause I was on Amazon. Think I got mine at Sam's Club. This is inexpensive to set up and really frugal on electricity. All the cold stays in the compartment when you open it. Also - super insulated compared to a beverage cooler. It's not stainless, but you can get compact chest freezers in black. If you like DIY, you could buy a cheap chest freezer and cover it with [stainless steel laminate] (https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Appliance-BRUSHED-Nickel-Adhesive/dp/B00BAUPS9M/).

http://www.amazon.com/5304486359-242059501-242059504-Frigidaire-Refrigerator/dp/B009UW4LS6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454205038&sr=8-1&keywords=frigidaire+ffht1817lw0+handle

Lol it's a link to a fridge handle I sent me landlord. Ours snapped off.

The parts list I HAD been using:

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/463222/Frigidaire-Frt18s6a.html#product-FRT18S6A

(Illustrations on page 10, part numbers on page 11)

gave this part number - 5304433579 - which looks like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Frigidaire-5304433579-Refrigerator-Manufacturer-White-Westinghouse/dp/B004XL2VXG

(and cost a lot more a couple of days ago !?!?!?)

It wasn't until I took the old one out that I realized they can't be the same. The parts list mentioned IS for my fridge and has been right otherwise. No idea...

A different parts list, also for my fridge, gives something closer (starter - ptc): 218721112 OR 218721113 depending on model. Neither match what I have.

241707702 is the part I have. I understand what a relay is but don't know what a starter PTC is or does. I will google and read.

There are 3 tabs holding it closed. I did try for a little while to get it open but it's the kind of tab that make assembly easy, not the kind that make disassembly easy. The cover does move though, it can be done.

The part is light weight but not so light weight that I can say with certainty that nothing inside is potted.

I am in the US (MA).

I had run across that link a couple of days ago, I remember the packing peanut in the fan. I will really read it thoroughly but have no interest in trying the hack, the food storage situation is under control.

Can't express how much I appreciate you taking the time to help.

If you're handy, consider doing it yourself. You can get a replacement unit from Amazon for less than $70 (here's one for example). There are videos on youtube that show exactly how to replace it.

If you are pretty handy and have a work area, you might try rebuilding the transmission yourself. When they go, usually it is the neutral drain parts that fail.

Whirlpool 388253 Neutral Drain Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DM8MEJW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_By2qzbX9CMJKG

Couple videos on YouTube on how to do this. Includes instructions.

Aw man, I am sorry to hear that. At first sight, it looks very similar to the generic whirlpool motor that we used to sell:

https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-4389142-Evaporator-Fan-Motor/dp/B00DM8L7DG

it was super-generic and would fit just about any model. If you can find a local repair parts place, they'll likely have that in stock. Take yours with you and see if it matches up.

Don't overthink this one--you've done all the troubleshooting already. I'd replace the defrost thermostat. Here's a much cheaper alternative that will work fine.
https://www.amazon.com/General-Electric-WR50X122-Defrost-Thermostat/dp/B00A8O0CDS

I use these on all different refrigerators. The defrost thermostat is basically a switch that allows the heater to get power when the timer is in the defrost cycle. It only turns on (or more accurately closes) when the freezer is cold enough, and then turns off (opens) after the heater has melted enough frost...and in the process warms the thermostat back up (it sits at the top of the coils, and will warm up when the coils are defrosted). It basically determines if the heater needs to run (is it cold enough?), and for how long (again, the thermostat stops the heater from getting power once it has warmed up enough from the defrost cycle). When defrost thermostats (aka bi-metals) fail, they usually just never turn on... Preventing the heater from doing it's job. I run into these problems all the time and if you know the heater is good and the timer is good, the only other thing could be the defrost thermostat (or a problem in the wiring somewhere, but that's a lot less likely). I change defrost thermostats more than any other parts for this type of issue. For the price, i think it's worth a shot.

Hope I'm not too late here!

control board $130

water valve $20


WHY DON'T PEOPLE LEARN TO TAKE SCREWS OUT OF SCREW-HOLES!!! OR USE COLOR CODED WIRES!!!!

Glad, you're welcome! I've got myself one of those automatic ice cube making machines in my freezer. It came with the fridge that came with the apartment.

Here's one that I found that's vaguely similar to mine. The replacement for mine however is a couple of hundred dollars sadly, but this is cheaper.

Tell me how your iced tea came out tomorrow!

Fascinating. Thank you for the insight. The inner workings of appliances and electric and refrigeration is essentially magic to me.

Can that part be cleaned or repaired in some way or will it need to be replaced?

And am I correct then in assuming that this is the part:
http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Kenmore-Refrigerator-Temperature-Control-Thermostat/WP2198202/2299?modelNumber=106.55622500&ss=a4b6d699004-x746865726d6f73746174&mr=1

and using that part number listed (#WP2198202) i found it on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-2198202-Thermostat-for-Refrigerator/dp/B004XLE5DU

Thank you so much for your help.

Thanks - it's one of the these so I only know it does chlorine, not chloramine.

A pump? I don't think mine has a pump. Isn't it all fed through water pressure?

Anyways, I am thinking now that the culprit is the water filter housing. This part --> https://www.amazon.com/GE-WR17X11618-Filter-Assembly-Refrigerator/dp/B004H3XVX4/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1480476519&sr=1-1&keywords=ge+water+filter+housing

Does the ice maker get its water from this housing as well? Because the vibration/jackhammer sound happens whether it's making ice, or dispensing water.

Hard to say. Do you know where the water valve is to shut off the whole house? When you go to bed you can close that. Open in the morning when you get up.

I know it is a hassle, but it is only temporary.

NOTE: When it comes to icemakers, you can get one that is branded for your fridge. That may be expensive. But there is another option:

https://www.amazon.com/Supco-Replacement-Whirlpool-KitchenAid-RIM597/dp/B003IVGJBC

The above is just an example. It may not fit yours. You can enter your make and model number at the top of the Amazon page to verify suitability. But there is likely a universal one that will work for you.

Makes sense. I don't own a smart fridge, so I just grabbed the first result, looks like you could DIY it for $150-200

https://www.amazon.com/GE-WR55X10942-Refrigerator-Control-Board/dp/B003BIGDLI

Open up the rear wall of the freezer side and inspect the coil. It is nearly guaranteed to be frozen over. This and the higher temp is a symptom of the main problem. Your defrost coil (looks like a lamp or toaster coil in a glass tube) under the coil has probably burned out.


The part looks like this. You will want to find the exact one for your part number fridge. Its cheap and easy to replace.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-WR51X10055-Refrigerator-Defrost-Assembly/dp/B003BIGDIG?keywords=GSH25JFTACC+defrost+coil&qid=1540695627&sr=8-1-fkmrnull&ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1




I went through a number of years ago. Replacement is manually defrost the coil with a hair dryer, collect all the water that drains down, and swap out the heater coil. Shouldn't take more than a couple hours to sort out, defrosting it and all. No reason to replace the fridge at this point if this sorts it out.

https://www.amazon.com/Frigidaire-5304440067-CABINET-MOUNTING-KI/dp/B001DHGBV6