(Part 2) Best seals & o-rings according to redditors

OK, buckle-up! I'm going to save you a several hour journey into the bowels of the internet to hunt down all this particular information. :-)

Better Ear Tips for the BLON BL-03:

For good ear tips, pick up some Sony MH755 earphones for the BLONs. (They are available for ~$5 on Aliexpress, roughly the same on Ebay). The tips off of these Sony's are a perfect fit/match for the Blons. An added plus is that they come with an assortment of different sized tips, so you can pick the ones with the best fit for you.

Another great option on ear tips for the BLONs are the Final Audio Type E tips. Here's a source for them on Amazon. (I like these a little better than the MH755 tips, but either are really nice upgrades for the BLONs.)

Another tip for tips on BLONs... (Hah! Sorry, couldn't resist!) Some folks (to include me) add these small gaskets around the BLON's stem base in order to help get whatever tips they use to extend up and further out - sort of a tip booster seat. :-) This really helps to deliver a better seal. (The BLON stems are notoriously short, so folks with larger ears will definitely benefit from doing this more so than folks with small ears.)

Better cables for the BLON BL-03:

The Blons use a square, protruded .78mm 2 pin connector. (NX7-style). These are a bit harder to find, but they are out there if you want a perfect match to the square connector housing. (Note that you may need to trim the pins down a little to make them flush with the connector housing though - easily done using a pair of wire snips. Thanks Tacanacy!) Cable example: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000129870705.html (Choosing the NX7 style option... Note these cables are probably overkill, but they are really nice cables.)

If you are willing to file/cut down the square edges of the Blon's cable connector to make it a bit more oval (using a hobby knife or small file), they can easily be made to fit any QDC or type "C" connector which is a pretty standard cable connector type. This will let you then fit any QDC connector based cable over the Blon's protruded plug and get a nice snug fit up against the housing of the Blon. Lots more options in types/brands of cable if you go this route. Here's a nice example: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33018785015.html (Choosing the "QDC 3.5" option)

If you don't want to do the above mod (shave down the square edges of the Blon's connector), any exposed (non-hooded) connector that uses two pins (.78mm) will work just fine with the Blons, but they will be flush with the connector and not cover or sleeve over it. They will still be 100% functional and work great though.

As to cable brands, I've found that all of these are really good quality (in my order of preference): Nicehck, Kbear, Tripowin, Yinyoo, TRN

Also, if you see a bunch of different cable plug connectors (2.5mm, 3.5mm, 4.4mm) and don't know which is which, the 3.5mm plug is the one you'll want - it's the standard that will fit pretty much every audio device out there. (The others are typically used more with esoteric/higher-end audio gear which utilize balanced cable connections - ones which don't share a common ground wire between the left/right channels and require more connector contacts and an additional wire in the mix.)

I'd also recommend that you pick out at least an 8 core braided cable as they tend to be a bit thicker and *much* less tangle prone then the stock cables or others that use thinner wires. I really like the look/feel of the 16 core cables myself, but they may be a bit on the bulky side for some, especially if you plan to use them for fitness activities or around the gym.

And finally, if you are still reading this wall of text, no matter which cables you get, be sure to get the orientation of the plug right otherwise your audio will be out of phase and may sound a bit odd. It's pretty easy to mix up the plug orientation on the connectors! Here's a site you can use to check to make sure you got them right: https://www.audiocheck.net/audiotests_polaritycheck.php

Hope all this info helped!

While I’m waiting on my Lumina to come in, I figure I’d do a cheaper, experimental tactile build.

Keyboard: Duck Sidewinder Gray

• Duck Sidewinder
  
  Stabs: GMK Screw in Stabalizers w/ Walker Mod (no adhesive sticker)
  
  
• GMK Screw in Stabalizers
  
  
• Permatex Dielectric Grease
  
  
• Orings
  
  Switches: Holy Razers
  
  
• Greetech SMD RGB bottoms
  
  
• Outemu ICE V2 tops
  
  
• Halo True stems
  
  
• Krytox 205 GPL 0
  
  Butyl Rubber
  
  
• Non Adhesive for the case
  
  
• Adhesive for the spacebar
  
  Keycaps:
  
  
• Blue Grey XDA Keycap Set
  
  I needed something to scratch my itch while I wait for my Lumina, so I decided to pick up the Duck Sidewinder and screw around with some mods. I have a bunch of halo’s and Outemu Ice V2’s lying around, so I decided to pick up some Greetech switches to mess around with. After lubing them up with Krytox 205, I had a good set of holy razers, and I’m pretty happy with them.
  
  I’ve used butyl rubber to deaden the sound in my keyboards before, but this is the first time using it on the spacebar. I actually like the added weight in the spacebar, and I had no idea if I would or not.
  
  As far as the caps go… Truth be told, I’m not much of a fan, but I was hoping the dark blue would bring out the blue tones in the case, and I think it did pretty well. I’ll keep them on for bit and see if they grow on me. It's just hard to find a good set of caps that are colemak compatible. Currently I'm waiting on these.
  
  I’m pretty excited to have this as my daily driver for awhile :)

ahh ok. I would say maybe put a low profile rubber ring around the button so it doesnt bottom out when it comes up.

Or a gasket similar to this, except being the right size of course;
https://www.amazon.com/Ochoos-39x30x2mm-Gaskets-Insulation-Sealing/dp/B07MNH3CGX

The ones on Amazon are mostly steel, while the one on the site you linked is aluminum. Not sure if it'll make a huge difference either way. They do tend to back off during shooting, so you might want to pick up some 12mm ID silicone/viton o-rings either way to help keep it in place - I picked up these.

could be a bit low on oil. you can isloate the sound by using a stethescope it doesnt always work brilliant but it will at least tell you in the general area to elliminate a crank or rod bearing but i think a crank or rod knock would be much much louder.

Also replace the CAS o ring. http://rallyways.com/specialty/cas-o-ring-miata-oil-leak/
I bought these but if you are willing to drive around places to find a viton 222 o ring you might save a bit of money. I had some other gaskets and junk I was waiting on so figured might as well order at the same time.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FN0YG2/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
if you dont get viton make sure you get buna n or some other rubber which is oil resistant and withstand the heat of the motor.

Most commonly in plumbing & faucets. Try searching for or asking for "silicone faucet o rings". Look into getting several sizes like 16mm, 19mm, and 22mm rings.

​

www.amazon.com/016-Silicone-Ring-Durometer-Width/dp/B000FMWOAW/ I found these on amazon through a Saudi VPn so they should be available to you.

Buy these. Think they are what I got and work perfectly
https://www.amazon.com/Rubber-3-00X1-00mm-Mechanical-Black-Washers/dp/B01J50NMLE/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=3mm+rubber+washer&qid=1571071572&sr=8-15

I would not glue them.

If you use these washers you can take them apart and store them were you keep the tiles and just keep the posts in a small box with the washers in the game. Use a washer at the top and at the bottom like in my example here.

https://imgur.com/FFEHCh3

Good Luck Conquering the Galaxy!

Tandy Leather sells nickel plated rings up to 3". You could also get some large rubber seals on amazon. Like this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CUR5YS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_W4aoybYYRD39A

That's an odd failure mode. Sounds like the clutch ring got stuck or something. Either way, the new one should be with you for a long time~

As for wobble, I did the tape fix, and it was dead solid for a little while, but I've since noticed the nib clicking on the inside of the barrel again while I'm writing. I'm planning to try Kapton tape instead of the clear packing tape that's currently on there, and I'm gonna try adding in an o-ring at some point once I either decide to buy 99 more than I need at that link or find a source for smaller quantities (gonna try Home Depot, they're size A005), for what that's worth.

Sounds like a missing fill valve o-ring.

Get these

002 Silicone O-Ring, 70A... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FMYEO6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Found these in my amazon purchase history, they fit my gas and liquid posts (pin lock, but I think ball lock is the same).

I think these work for the lids, but I don't think these are the exact ones I bought.

Theres these! Boeray 24 Size 740 pcs Nitrile Rubber NBR O-Ring Gasket Ring Assortment Kits Thickness 1.5mm 2.4mm 3.1mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077TPHPNC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Cp3qDbBV7XH1H

If you've already taken it apart (DJLSB has a breakdown in his review if not), why not do so again, and liberally clean all of the insides (including all visible solder joints and all circuit board parts as well as the fire button) with 90% isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) and a q-tip. The ISO is a good solvent and will remove all the ejuice, and also evaporates completely within a few minutes, and is not electrically conductive.

Then after letting it dry out for a few mins, you can reassemble and see if it works.

After that if it still works ok without autofiring, you might want to get some 7mm x 1mm o-rings, and insert one into and round the 510 pin at the top where you screw on your atty, and see if this helps to prevent the leaking.

You can find the o-rings here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTO0US6/

any idea on the general diameter or thickness i need? i dont have that issue on my other barrels. i have heard one guy who put teflon tape on the threads to thicken them up but i havent tried it myself.

edit: you mean these? https://www.amazon.com/Sur-Seal-ORBN013x250-Number-013-Standard-Durometer/dp/B01M6UMXW9/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1478226885&sr=8-3&keywords=013+viton+o-ring

I recently replaced the o-rings on my valve and I used a -117 silicone o-ring that I bought off of amazon. It was like $15 for a pack of 50, which will last me for a really long time (I think this is the one). I put my system together over the weekend and I don't have any leaks. One thing to watch for as you're tightening the inner bolt is that the o-ring can squeeze out and that will cause a leak.

Get some rubber O rings and install it on the KB so that you stop bottoming out, that's likely what you're hearing. The switches themselves are silent as opposed to something like a cherry Mx blue (or equivalent) switch that has a noticable click sound with each key press. Example O rings (there's cheaper out there though, I got some from china on ebay for like a buck)

https://www.amazon.com/Rubber-O-Ring-Dampeners-Cherry-200-Pieces/dp/B01F0SPWM2/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1487527929&sr=1-4

Parts for this project are

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Subaru-42072AE00A-Fuel-Filter/dp/B00L2OWO2U/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=42072AE00A&qid=1573520568&sr=8-1

And

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DZVFXUW/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

The first part might say its NOT compatible with your car, it’s wrong. You discard the filter / strainer portion and keep the metal “cap” portion. This part works for H4 and H6 engines. It’s the ‘work around’ you have to do unless you want to spend $300 for a whole new fuel pump and assembly.

The 2nd part is a 928 Viton o-ring that does not swell in ethanol. The OEM o ring ends up swelling in ethanol which ruptures the metal cap causing your car not to hold pressure when parked, which causes your car to starve for fuel on startup.

Sorry for the long link. I don’t know how to hyperlink on mobile. Is this what you are looking for?

Leak Stopper - Permanent O-Ring for CO2 Gas Cylinders https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018UNZLHU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4veOBbE7A76PM

$2 O-rings on Amazon

Be aware that different o-rings affect the key travel, key sound, and key feel in unique ways.

Have you replaced your CAS O-ring recently/ever? If not, this may be the root cause -- a slow oil leak from the CAS (at rear of exhaust cam) onto the heater hose, which over time degrades the hose. Feel around back there and see if the hose is covered in dirty oil.

If you do need to do that job, you can get a 5-pack of Viton O-rings in the correct size from Amazon. It's an extremely simple job as long as you don't try to do it without taking off the valve cover.

For the main plunger and pusher seal I use 217 sized Silicone O rings. You can get them right here off amazon.


The O ring seat I use is currently just a flat surface. I've experimented with floating seals and a sloped seat but really noticed no difference. The actual diameter of the O ring seat is highly variable, because of the high variation in the old Poly tube I had to individually tune each blaster's seat. The usual range of diameters was between 1.22" and 1.24".


For the prototype Alloy tube (Which actually has a slightly larger ID of 1.509") I've currently worked the O ring seat to a diameter of 1.232", and even at that I believe I can go a few thou smaller while maintaining a perfect seal. I'm hoping that once the alloy PT becomes production ready, because of it's greater consistency individual seal tuning for each blaster will be a thing of the past.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FMYSEM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1396656521&sr=1-1%CF%80=SX200_QL40

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWOAW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These work pretty well. And I got a lifetime supply for $4

They have the 1/8" thick ones for 10 dollars but I don't think it makes much difference.

So what I bought were:
https://www.amazon.com/111-Silicone-Ring-Durometer-Width/dp/B000FMWNZS/
and
https://www.amazon.com/109-Silicone-Ring-Durometer-Width/dp/B000FMWNS0/

I think I just bought the lid rings from the homebrew shop. These silicone ones last a lot longer than the typical black ones. The usual rings would always get gnarly and make it hard to remove the quick disconnects.

Hope that helps.