(Part 2) Best soils, fertilizers & mulches according to redditors
We found 1,390 Reddit comments discussing the best soils, fertilizers & mulches. We ranked the 574 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
Pot/Planter
Soil / Perlite mix (70/30)
Nutrients
pH test kit
Lights
Should be around ~$100 and good for 1 medium plant or 2 small plants.
I spent like 30 minutes on that list for y'all newbs. When you could have just gone through the sidebar and/or used the search function. Somebody better upvote me.
Combination of parts from Amazon and ebay. Not all of them are necessary, fittings and Brute trashcans and such are from Home Depot.
Runs the lights, pump, fans, and other electronics. Kind of excessive. 5A would be enough.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E6S0JS4
Don't cheap out on these. Crappy plastic check valves really screwed me early on.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KZOCQMA
Needed for priming the pump or flushing the nutrient reservoir.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018HMFG7O
This was roughly 4x what I actually needed.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B8PAAJW
Transplanting the sprouts into this was weird, but they took well to it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004IAM29K
Everything I chose was 5/16 inner diameter.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CGVJ9QG
Hydroponic pots, specifically for Leca substrate.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N9AE9BE
I think that dripping from two feet aerates the water naturally, but this can't hurt.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L17IPEO
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01339F5ZO
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01339G2F6
Wait for sales on these! The 270W light is $80 now, but I got it for $60.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RWQ4B50
To make the door airtight.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011CXIPO6
This will be enough for a bunch of grows. A little goes a long way.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017H73708
Will also last a long time. Only takes a few drops to balance a gallon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BNKWZY
This thing was bigger than I anticipated.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E582DV2/
For making the irrigation loops.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/302176243137
Loud as heck. Ended up using a quieter fan I had around.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/272508816366
Quiet as heck. Rated for 2.1GPM. It's enough, but I think that a 5GPM pump would have been better.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/272403296601
Never use baking soda on soil or to correct the pH! The sodium will interfere with potassium uptake and could kill your plant.
It's best to use pH up or pH down. pH down may be nitric acid, pH up is usually potassium hydroxide. These are both mineral acids/bases.
I use 5.5-8.0 pH strips since they are convenient, can measure a single drop, low cost, requires no calibration, and requires no special storage.
https://www.amazon.com/Hydrion-Chart-Dispenser-5-5-8-0-Range/dp/B00QLBVP74
I measure the nutrient solution before it is added and the water runoff from the soil.
You want a TDS/EC meter for dosage if not just following the label.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_conductivity_meter
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TDS_meter
https://hannainst.com/products/testers/ec-tds.html
> If you are growing in soil, I assume that you use a good soil that has aged and balanced itself.
What do you mean by "aged and balanced"?
Veg nutrients/formulas tend to have more nitrogen, flowering tends to have more phosphorus. This can depend on the plant to include how high the fertilizer levels are.
As a long term employee in the Denver cannabis industry, this strikes me as one of the saddest examples of market failure in the history of the world... And what's more ironic, is it's being continued primarily by a bunch of dumbass right-wingers who claim to be all about market driven economics!
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What a bunch of horse shit!
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myclobutanil (MCB) is an amazing fungicide. Farmers the world over use Eagle 20 on just about EVERYTHING, because it's cheap and it's effective AF! Unfortunately we discovered that when oxidized this compound yields cyanide gas, among other toxic nastiness. MCB can be safely eaten however!! This type of scientific data was only found because Colorado democratically chose to legalize and regulate cannabis.
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Imagine a future where this type of process could be utilized to the benefit of everybody, not just those lucky enough to live in a magical place like Colorado!
Fig rust is caused by spores from the fungus + humidity. It's only on the underside of the leaves that the spores are made when the fungus is further along it's life cycle. If you spray copper it kills the current fungus and prevents the existing spores from causing more rust for a while on whatever you've sprayed. Dispose of any fallen leaves (don't compost them because they are a source of more spores)
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this is a good thread about fig leaf rust
copper concentrate for spray
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edit: wanted to give you a better reference link for fig rust and what to do etc
...and just to add on some info, they are both varieties of quartz which is silicon dioxide (SiO2). You can just purchase food grade diatomaceous earth if you want to include it in any recipes. It will save you lots of money and have the same effect in any elixir!
Looks like you've got some cool stuff there, but are lacking primary/base nutes. The GObox is great for soil, but for DWC I would recommend their Flora Series nutes instead, which is also available with a couple other great products bundled in the GH Performance pack
For the most part, I stick to a single line of nutes so I can just follow the feeding schedule. It's not uncommon for growers to substitute a couple products with the rough equivalent from another brand. However, I wouldn't even know where to start with so many different product lines there. I would suggest you read up on those products you have to find their contents and role in the nutrient line so you can use them effectively together.
Hey! You can build your bucket in whatever way you would like. I suggest you check out spacebuckets.com for build ideas from others. There are so many ways to build and whatever suits your needs will be best to build for yourself. :)
The container adjust could work, but you'll need to make sure that it is all secure so it doesn't tip or fall over or anything.
I think you have early blight.
It is a fungus.
You should remove all of the diseased leaves and stems and give it a good dose of fungicide.
Once this stuff gets going, there usually isn't anything you can do about it except weep for your unborn tomatoes. But, you might be able to slow it.
Dispose of the infected plant material in your trash, not in your compost.
I use Diatomaceous Earth (here) to get rid of gnats and other bugs. It’s harmless to humans (you can technically eat it) but to bugs it’s like broken glass. I suggest re potting the plant (it can be in the same container just different soil) and them mixing DE into it evenly.
Disclaimer about Diatomaceous Earth, DON’T breath it in! Seriously wear a dust mask when handling it. It has a high concentration in silica, which while harmless if digested, can be dangerously breathed in in large quantities because silica will stay stuck in your lungs forever and can cause respiratory issues later in life.
That being said, you don’t gotta worry about that after it’s mixed in the soil and has been wetted down because it will not longer be in the air. And will never puff up again to be breathed in. 100% safe once put in the pot in soil
I used it on my plants that had gnats and they are completely gone
Cool yo congrats on the soon to be first grow! I'm no expert but I'll toss in my 2 cents.
The tent will support the lights (22 lbs), usually they give you poles for the roof to hang any equipment. You might wanna look into those adjustable carabiner type things for hanging lights and equipment.
I can't tell you how to hook up the filter but I'm sure there are instructions and dozens of YouTube videos. Depending on where you want to vent it to you may need some flex duct, but if the carbon filter is just for the smell you can have it exhaust directly into the room the tent is in, with a passive intake or something.
Good call on running some bag seed first to get experience and test your set up, just remember if you see signs of a male kill it immediately - don't want to polinate your new tent!
You do not need C02, at least not yet. Get through your first harvest and then reevaluate. Adequate air flow will give you plenty of C02.
As for nutes, fox farm soil is well reviewed, and after about 30 days the soil will run out of nutes. You can top it with fertilizer or similar things, or buy liquid nutrients and add them with water. I've been using
General Hydroponics Flora Series Performance Pack https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B008UCCCII/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_w2pMzb74TDKRG and it seems to be working great, easy to follow week by week schedule and everything, and at the rate I'm using it I think it will last for at least a few more grows.
This is a long post... So in summary:
Lastly, don't helicopter parents the seedlings. Germinate them, chuck them under a couple cfls like 6 inches away, don't over water them, no nutes, and give them time! Most minor problems that may come up in the first couple weeks (like a bit of nute burn from hot soil) will sort themselves out.
Good luck!
Edit: the carabiner things VIVOSUN Pair of 1/8" Adjustable Grow Light Reflector Clip Hanger Rope Ratchet with Zinc Alloy Internal Gears 75lb Each https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00P7TZNPQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VfqMzbYWA2VT9
I'm sorry, but I do not trust Pennington at all when it comes to turf recommendations, especially since they list Kentucky-31 as a proper turf grass.
Unless you have a fescue type that is designed to be cut that short, you really shouldn't be under 2.5". Even if you follow the 1/3rd rule, you'd need to be cutting as soon as the lawn reaches 3" if you are trying to maintain it with a 2" cut.
Clemson recommends 3 - 3.5" as a general rule of thumb depending on the time of year. (warmer climates compared to Penn St.)
https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/tall-fescue-maintenance-calendar/
Iowa St. recommends 3".
https://hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/2015/11-13/tallfescue.htm
University of Maryland recommends 3-4" for Tall Fescue.
https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/plants/mowinggrasscycling-lawns
Of course there's also always Pete from GCI turf on the ol' Youtube who has arguably the best looking Fescue lawn I've seen, and he likes 4.5 - 5" for hit cut height.
I used to work in the industry, and I know how to treat brownpatch. The article you linked is correct as I said that retail stores themselves don't really keep decent fungicides stocked.
However here's what you can get online for it:
Group 1
Clearys 3336F Fungicide
https://www.domyown.com/clearys-3336f-fungicide-p-1345.html
Group 3:
Propiconazole
https://www.domyown.com/propiconazole-143-p-16567.html?sub_id=16568
Eagle 20EW
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004S6ZZFM/ref=ox_sc_mini_detail?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2EO23QHLO0CX9
Tebuconazole
https://www.domyown.com/prime-source-tebuconazole-36-p-12199.html
Myclobutanil
https://www.domyown.com/myclobutanil-20ew-to-fungicide-p-16654.html
Group 3 and 11:
Armada 50 WDG Fungicide
https://www.domyown.com/armada-50-wdg-fungicide-p-1350.html
Group 11:
Fluoxastrobin
https://www.domyown.com/fame-granular-fungicide-p-15599.html
https://www.domyown.com/disarm-fungicide-p-13524.html
Azoxystrobin
https://www.domyown.com/heritage-fungicide-p-1343.html
Other (group M):
chlorothalonil
https://www.domyown.com/daconil-ultrex-turf-care-fungicide-p-2309.html
For Brown patch prevention when conditions first appear that favor a fungus outbreak (Lots of rain, followed by hot humid temps) A preventative application can be applied, and is good for 28 days.
For curative it's a bit more work. It typically takes up to 4 applications, 2 of one group, and one of another group, and then one of either the same group or back to the first group. All 14 days apart.
Typically my fungicide treatment revolves around the cheaper group 3 and group 1 products, with group 11's thrown in for rotation to prevent resistance from developing. If I'm doing Group 1 for my primary, my secondary application will typically be something like Armada. since it has both Group 3 and 11, if I'm using a Group 3 as the main application I'll use something like Heritage for my group 11.
You have to be really careful about where you get your information, as a lot of magazine articles or brochures are written by people who haven't really done the research. I don't trust Turf Mag or sales media to inform me on turf, the same way I don't just the verge to teach someone how to build a computer.
Hey, everyone starts somewhere, and look at it this way.. you made it further than anyone that just decided not to try.
I don't use rockwool when it comes to DWC/RDWC. A bag of cheap lava rock from home depot or the like, break it up with a hammer, fit it into your net pot, you're golden. As long as you rinse it pretty good anyway, otherwise your water will be red for a long time, and it won't be easy on your pump either. I don't use rockwool for the plain fact it isn't needed, and at worst can lead to root rot(the reason I don't use it). As long as you have water splashing onto the hydroton/lava rock/whatever you decide to use will wick it up to the plant, and has the added bonus of there always being o2 available.
I prefer to use the tough totes from home depot/lowes as opposed to 5 gallon buckets.
https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Friendly-Biological-Fungicide/dp/B00VXQG23O/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=southern+ag&qid=1562899180&s=gateway&sr=8-9
I also add just a dab of this stuff. It's basically Hydrogard.. But countless times more concentrated, and more importantly.. countless times cheaper. I don't know if it will cure your root problem, but it will certainly help keep them at bay and slow down what you do have going on.
Heres what i ordered.
FoxFarm GLCMBX0006 Liquid Nutrient Soil Trio-Pints, Grow Big, Tiger Bloom, 16 Fl Oz Combo Pack Fertilizer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C0PEBES/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EPqnDbS1C6Q0A
Heard good things on the brand
definitely not the "best" but you can achieve great results with it, that said where are you seeing $100 for the trio? You can get enough for a whole run of 2-4 plants with this for $40ish
> was ignorant and unaware of how to remedy her issues. But now, I'm back with a vengeance.
theres no nutrients in that mix which is fine for the first 2 weeks. have you thought if you want to go bottle vs organic? you might want to add one or all of these later: kelp meal/, kelp extract(trace minerals), oyster shell (calcium/chitin/), neem meal(integrated pest managment and nitrogen, gypsum (sulfur), dr earths organic fertilizer..
PHEW that was a lot of links. If you had to pick two id go with dr earths fertilizer with the liquid kelp and some quality compost preferrably local but this is good in a pinch.
theres bottle organics with biobizz thats not too expensive. they have a starter pack for $25.
by the way if you are having issues with PH you may or may not want to add a teaspoon or two of dolomite lime. this brings PH up to 7.0 as it is alkaline. this is good for PEAT based mixes as peat is acidic at about 5.5-6.0.
Since we all love videos heres one thing to take a look at
if you want to go bottle fox farms trio is popular or you can use pure blend pro grow/ bloom.
Looks like fungus. Try using this product.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015X6FIYS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AX6XB8XK2JAWT&psc=1
Or thishttps://www.amazon.com/Eagle-20-EW-Fungicide-Pint/dp/B004S6ZZFM/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1498485935&sr=1-1&keywords=eagle+fungicide
Some compost, worm castings, manure or composted manure added to the soil when transplanting outdoors will help feed the plants.
You can also add amendments like bone meal, blood meal, kelp meal.
For outdoor fertilizer I've used jack's classic, works well and has been around forever.
veg https://www.amazon.com/Peters-Classic-20-20-20-Purpose-Fertilizer/dp/B005LKNCZY
flower https://www.amazon.com/Jacks-Classic-10-30-20-Blossom-Booster/dp/B009YOIABY/
Get some food grade diatomaceous earth
Nature's Wisdom Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth 1 lb. Jar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00404X0AE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_slj1CbT7Q751N
Get the prime one of this manufacturer .
I can speak on this manufacturer as a purchased it. Sprinkle on and around counters windows patio doors I'm cabinets around plants etc.
Pet safe , don't allow it to get wet .
The ants will go in the DE and eat it , the silica will cut into them internally , also some will take it back to nest before the die, other pest that eat the ants will also die,
Gotta add it in the soil.
Great White Mycorrhizae, 4 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AU8JKR6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FarWzb0F08WWH
Real Growers Recharge (8oz) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J1CAEIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8arWzbSGAZKV3
I 1000% guarantee you if you take a sample and inoculate an agar plate, and incubate, you will observe microbes. You could inoculate your soil further with expensive (but apparently amazing, game changing) mycorrhizal inoculants like Great White or simply by supplementing with compost tea. Worms are beneficial in pretty much any soil situation and even in certain styles of hydroponics.
Most folks go with bottled nutes. There's lots of different brands I use fox farm trio. You only have to buy 3 bottles but for $33 all together it's a pretty good deal.
Here's a link to the 3pack
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01C0PEBES/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484020161&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=fox+farm+trio&dpPl=1&dpID=51d0Bx89s2L&ref=plSrch
I actually use both. Neem oil I combine with dish soap and water and use as a preventative spray. I mist my plants maybe once every 2 weeks. Copper fungicide I use if the problem is getting out of control in tandem with neem. Copper once a week. I dont have any issues since I grow indoor but my tomatoes get fungus infections every year after a wet period followed by a really warm one
I linked the concentrate which you dilute in water. They have a ready to use version also from the same company. Just more $ for less.
Bonide 811 Copper 4E Fungicide 16oz (473ML) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BSULSHA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uycqDb7DVNPP8
I actually grew mint in the back of my all-in-one 4.3g planted when I had it set up in my dorm room this spring! It grew like crazy, but that area of my room didn't get much natural light, so all the mint leaves wanted to grow up under the bulb after a couple weeks. It was really neat and made use of the unoccupied space in the back of the tank.
I grew the mint in hydroponic plant baskets that I designed, modeled, then 3D printed. It was originally a personal project idea, but it turned out to be my entry for a 3D printing competition. For my growing media I used LECA, which are those expanded clay balls. The water flooded the b (and plants)askets about 0.5-1" up. The roots were healthy and grew down through the holes and dangled in the water. As far as growth goes, you can always cut mint back as much as you want since it grows like a weed. Everything worked like a charm for me!
No, I planted it in a jiffy peat pellet https://www.amazon.com/Count-Jiffy-Pellets-Seeds-Starting/dp/B000EHJN7K. After it opened its starter leaves I transplanted, removing as much of the peat as possible without exposing the root. Put a layer of the bigger rocks on bottom, set her in there and filled the void with little fish tank rocks, finally topped it with another layer of the bigger ones.
Here's what I have so far and my quick write up.
My dad started the tomato plant that I am using in soil. He had too many for his garden, so I used that instead of starting one from seed in rockwool. My next plant will be started from seed.
I picked up a 5 gal bucket and Lid from Home Depot. <$5.
I cut a hole in the Lid to fit the 3" Net Cups. I put one right in the center. I quickly found out the cup it too small to support the plant so I had to use a support stick. I just bought this 6" net cup bucket lid.
The plant is supported in Expanded Clay balls. I chose this material as apposed to 'Hydroton, Coco coir, Viagrow stones, pearlite...' because from my very little research I found the clay to be the most environmentally friendly and easiest to use, disclaimer: I could be very wrong here.
The nutrient solution used General Hydroponics Maxi Grow. Simple to use, add X scoops per X gal of water. I am about to switch to Maxi Bloom. She is flowering and starting to produce fruit. I do now know when the best time to switch solutions. I am learning by experiment here.
To keep the nutrient solution oxygenated, I used this Air pump,two of of these air stones, and tubing. Any items will do, I used this products because I know an employee of Penn Plax and got them for cost $. Any pump will work, I got a two outlet pump for future expansion.
You should also be sure to have the correct pH for your particular plant. Here is a chart and a great site. I used this pH Test Kit and pH adjust.
It's that simple. Right now the plant is outside and gets about 8 hours of sun. I plan on keeping it outside as long as possible, then will bring it in and have to choose a light source for it.
tl;dr What I used for my first DWC tomato plant experiment. Step 1: Click all links above. Step2: Buy. Step 3: Tomatoes
Edit: Also, Watch this video
My favorite soil is Fox Farm Potting soil, but you're going to want to add a bit of perlite to it to help with drainage. I don't have a good link for cacti mix, but you could pick up almost anything and mix it with the Fox Farm soil.
edit: fixed links
Is the lettuce planted in a rock wool cube or something that can hold a lot of moisture? Zooming in on the photo there looks to be something slimy and green. Whatever that is it's most likely your problem.
Also, if you did use some kind of rock wool, I've found that i get better results not having them in an eb and flow setup. Imo it's better to have the plant just go naked roots in expanded clay. You want them to get oxygen! If you want a preventative beneficial bacteria that will out compete the bad bacteria and protect your roots I recommend southern ag garden friendly fungicide.
Southern Ag Garden Friendly Biological Fungicide,16oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VXQG23O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gzKtDb4BZTZH4
Super cheap and you only literally need a few ml in 40 to 50gallon reservoir. Haven't had root issues since.
Is that a soil pot in the middle of the grow bed? I'm no expert, but I feel like that could cause you a lot of problems, especially if it has nutrients already in it. Also, doesn't the soil get too wet? You might want to consider germinating your seeds using the paper towel method, and then transferring them to a soil-less option such as rockwool. Then you wouldn't have to worry about cleaning the peat off.
Here's a link for rockwool off of amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Grodan-A-OK-Starter-Plug-Sheet/dp/B00168EO48/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1395508987&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=rockwool
Mix these two chemicals together in a sprayer, only need to spray once at the beginning of the year. DILUTE HEAVILY because this stuff is super concentrated. Too much will cause harm.
http://www.amazon.com/Propiconazole-Honor-Guard-Spectrum-Fungicide/dp/B015X6FIYS?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
http://www.amazon.com/Bonide-Chemical-Mancozeb-Flowable-Fungicide/dp/B000BWZ9JO?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
Yep, people eat it, check out the amazon reviews "I went from a teaspoon to a tablespoon within about 6 weeks. Once I got up to higher doses, which I just drank in water, I did really notice a difference"
another review
I did pass a tapeworm or worms after I started DE. Terrible! I've noticed my hair has grown faster. I...I've been gradually loosing the belly pouch I had. ...I started taking DE 10 months ago because my stomach issues, swelling, bloating... they are gone. I am much happier person.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D4QW6DZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_qc-GDbSP58QKK
i been watching a lot of mike peace lately and i used his recipe. also splashed together some capn eddy shine juice while i had the measuring stuff out. boiled linseed, denatured alcohol and shellac
You'd have to check about the organic, but something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Great-White-Mycorrhizae-4-oz/dp/B00AU8JKR6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495862193&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=great+white
Painters tray $11
Perlite $12
Yea, I lost a lot of grass because of it. There's this fungicide Amazon that seemed to help. Also, as strange as it sounds, when it pours it seems to kill the fungus. I don't know if there's a lot of acid in the rain or what but it does something to the fungus. Regular watering from my sprinklers doesn't do anything to fix it, it was something with the rain water.
I did make one big mistake. After it was all gone I used a thatch rake to get rid of the dead grass and it seemed to have brought it back. So be careful removing the thatch because it's probably still alive underneath it.
If I find anything else I'll let you know.
For a few bucks less you can get can 2.5x the peat moss on amazon.
Combine with pearlite and for about $10 more you're getting a way better deal.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D4QW6DZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_gV22CbZ9VBBJT
Edit: I don't eat it, I'd forgotten that some people do...
I run all organic and here is a sample of my flower. Pic was taken during trimming.
Anyway, I'll give you my formula.
8ml/g gal of Nature's Nectar Nitrogen (this is derived from fermenting vegetable protein)
8ml/gal Humboldt Bloom Natural (This is derived from composting yucca, kelp, and soft rock phosphate which is used in organics)
2tbsp/5gal Soluble Seaweed (This product is amazing for potassium, iron, micronutrients, humic acid, and it builds a beneficials for rootzone health. It's an amazing product and there are many brands.)
These three products take care of my basic N-P-K. I use several other products to promote root growth and rootzone health, as well as some occasional micronutrients and foliar feeding.
In addition to these first three products add.
1 scoop/5gal of Great White beneficials (These are great for your roots. I use it until day 25 of flower)
8ml/gal Hygrozyme (This products is great for roots. The enzymes activate the beneficials and keep roots clean.)
8ml/gal Mendocino Honey (This product is mostly for feeding beneficials, but it contains a low dose N-P-K, magnesium, and a bunch of trace minerals and micronutrients)
1ml/gal Roots Excelurator (I use this until day 30 flower. It does what it says it will do... Roots grow faster and get bigger.)
During veg I alternate foliar feeding my babies with
15ml/gal Mendocino Cal/mag and then two days later...
10ml/gal Earth Juice Microblast (I foliar every other day during veg in order to avoid micro-nutrient deficiencies later on. )
I feed the above formula every other watering. I plant into 5 gal Happy Frog and immediately give them a half-strength feeding of the above formula (full strength Roots Excelurator). It usually takes 5-7 days for the plants to get dry right after transplant, and on the day they become light I feed plain water. Then the following feeding I switch to full strength nutes, and continue the every other watering-feeding. I give two weeks of flush at the end and the results are great.
I should also note that I don't PH the nutrients. It's not necessary at all, but I do filter my water. Also, I realize this is a somewhat expensive nutrient regimen, but it works fantastically. You can also grow with super-soil, which I am thinking trying soon. I love the idea of planting into soil and then feeding only water the whole time.
Hope this is helpful, good growing!
You can leave them in that pot longer if you would like. just becareful of them growing to much out the bottom of the pot, you can damage the plant when you transplant. if you dont want to go as big as a 1 gal, you can keep it in a 6 inch, doubling the pot size and it will do fine. When planted in the ground they can grow up to 3 feet!
if you plan on keeping it in a pot, than fertilizing it once a month is fine. here is some good stuff to use.
Mother Earth Coco Bale | 5kg |... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M69KV51?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
you have described my set up. its kinda like a shoe box inside a monotub.
i can get two trays in one STERILITE 32 Quart Gasket Box, 4qt of perlite, no liner.
150g dry coco coir, add 750ml boiling water, let cool.
then mix with one qt jar grain spawn, split into two food trays and let get
colonized for 10-14 days.
then uncover put into tub with hydrated perlite with a hydrometer, mist as necessary.
mine are prone to side pinning, but that doesn't bother me one bit.
the cake will shrink, sometimes i flip them and dunk them, others i just bottom or top water depending how what i think it needs.
I did some amazon searching found this Advanced Nutrients Micro. Am I correct that this would suffice my needs but id also have to purchase the Sensi AB formula as well? Sorry - I am getting a bit confused now.
Here! What kind of mushrooms do you grow?!
Okay, I have made the mistake you are about to make, so I'm going to say right now : DO not make the mistake I made of not taking care of your plants.
In college I attempted to grow 7 plants at once. All of them were female, and all of them were coming along nicely. At the time, I was dirt poor, so my roommate was paying for any expenses of the grow op.
You run a really high chance of your plants dying if you do not take proper care. That means you have to keep soil pH in check, make sure it's getting enough light, and potentially adding nutrients to the water if something goes wrong (Like a nitrogen deficiency).
Cannabis can be produced cheaply, and there are hundreds of guides out there for all sorts of budgets to get your grow right. Refer to GrassCity Forums or 420Magazine Forums for these guides.
When it comes down to it, growing your own plant is like having a child. You have a connection with it, you foster it to go from seed to beautiful plant. There's nothing more disappointing than to watch your baby die before it grows old. So take what I've said to heart and make sure you're taking care of it.
Remember that grow materials are a 1-time purchase for the most part. Sure it sucks to get a pH reader, but it will save you many headaches in the future. Better to get a pH reader and some pH Up, pH down, than to throw away a couple plants from $30 seeds.
Preventive maintenance is huge here. It's much easier to keep the plant going good from the beginning, than to have it hurt and try to fix it after the fact.
Good luck!
I got a little pushback on this but I like Mephisto for autos. Read their 'how to' guide for their plants. A couple of the things I like about them is they always send out 'bonus' seeds. The first time I ordered from them I ordered 4 seeds and got 8. Plus they were quick on the draw for answering my email. Opinions on Mephisto vary but for the most part I haven't heard much negative about them. Plus they always send me cool stickers with every shipment LOL. If you follow their 'how to' you'll probably do well. At the moment I'm working on seeding 2 every week so I'm continually harvesting but I have the room and the tents to do that. Lighting I'm no expert on but I'm warming way up to COB's that most people in this sub seem to be in love with. Downside is buying one built is expensive. Upside is everything I've heard about them and from some people on here that I respect is that they're the bomb.
You might be best suited to get your nutes based on what you read online but I make most of my own based on this https://drive.google.com/open?id=1W2oVzX79rwBrOLmXe_tudywjYaHE91U9 it's a pain in the ass but you can save some $$ going this route. I suppliment with this https://www.amazon.com/Advanced-Nutrients-Bloom-Micro-Grow/dp/B004FYSDFQ/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=micro+bloom&amp;qid=1554746704&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-2 when I'm running low or have been lazy :) but I'm sure some of the experts around here can recommend something better and easier.
Anyway I wish you nothing but the best of luck and keep us updated on your progress. We can all learn together and be brothers in weed :)
It's difficult to find in Dubai but "Food Grade Diatomacous Earth" powder is the safest and the most effective way of pest control for my experience. I have ordered it from Amazon and I can say that I am quite happy with the results. It's really effective. My two cats did not show any signs of disturbance or reaction to powder. You just need to reapply the dust time to time since they lose their effectiveness when they get wet due to humidity.
https://www.amazon.com/Harris-Diatomaceous-Powder-Duster-Included/dp/B07D4QW6DZ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=34YG4HEB9FMRI&amp;keywords=diatomaceous+earth&amp;qid=1555146035&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=Diatoma%2Caps%2C226&amp;sr=8-3
Well, fish fertilizer ain't great, but it's cheap as shit and it's easy to use. Here are some examples more ideal and popular products to start with:
Again, fish fert isn't great, but if you're looking to do things on the cheap, it's the way to go during vegetative state. The gallon size only costs like $12 or something at home depot. During flower, you're going to want to use Alaska Morbloom.
If you want to actually grow good shit though, you're going to have to shell out for some better products.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003YKDFAU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510806223&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=general+hydroponics+micro&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51%2B5fXIIUzL&amp;ref=plSrch.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004FYSDFQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510806302&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=advanced+nutrients+micro&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51EPL9em0LL&amp;ref=plSrch.
Advanced is coco or hydro only I’ll add bloom booster when I’ve thought about which ones to recommend that are cheap...
does the air channel look like it is meant to have "anything" in it? A normal channel will be at or about 5/32" of an inch.
I think your answer may lie in using the expanded clay such as [Nording Keystones] ( http://www.smokershaven.com/browseproducts/Nording's-Pipe-Keystones-100-gram-Large-Bag.html) however if you look around hydroponic supplies you may be able to find a suitable generic substitute, as this is commonly used as a growing medium. The most common form is the "pebbles" which are a trifle large to use in the bottom of the bowl at 8 to 16 mm. The 8mm would probably work, remember these are round for hydroponics, so 16 mm is .63 Inch in a bowl that is only .6 wide, and is 1.5" deep. i mean, they could be broken with a hammer, but I am sure that you can find smaller "expanded clay pellets". ... and I think I have with ones for growing orchids Here on amazon and $9.11 gets you two pounds, as compared to the $8.50 for 100 grams (less than a 1/4 pound).
You put the pellets in the bottom of the bowl to absorb any moisture in the smoke, throw out when they get clogged and dirty (5 bowls approx, on the Keystones).
For the cornmeal it's super cheap at feed stores or even hispanic/Mexican grocery store where you can find it in bulk, 25 or 50 lb bags for almost nothing. As far as synthetics I use this. Can do a combination of both for a faster response. Do this, mow as high as your mower will let you and keep the watering frequency low as it starts to warm up and come out of dormancy and you should see those spots filling in. To speed things up you could put some plugs down in the bare areas and they should send runners out from the inside, the rest of the grass from the outside. I prefer plugs to sod because the plugs will have the deeper roots already in place and can start sending runners laterally while with sod you have to wait for the roots to grow before you start seeing spread. Here's 2 really good threads from gardenweb that I had found when I started learning about my lawn. (1, 2).
You mentioned Randy Lemmon...check out his article on removing the thatch. He mentions it would ruin your St Augustine and that if the thatch really is a problem then aeration is the way to take care of it. Focus on the Take All first though. I know the name sounds like a death sentence for your lawn but it's definitely not and completely reversible.
Yea, i never heard of it before last weekend in a desperate ditch effort to find something that kills bugs and can be gotten on amazon fast lol.
Make sure you have the food grade diatomaceous earth, and not the pool grade. Pool grade is poisonous to all, food grade is killer to insects but mammals can eat it lol.
yea, the fact it never loses its potency since its mechanical is amazing. the only downside is how messy it can be, imagine tossing fine flour all over your house lol.
tonight after work, came home and inspected and have yet to find any mites crawling around. I think it may have worked totally now. I am still going to leave it there for at least another week JUST to be safe, as there may be eggs that will hatch and the newborn mites walk right onto the stuff and die. lol sounds cruel but fuck bugs!
This is the stuff I got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D4QW6DZ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I also dusted the empty hamper we have, and any clothes i toss in the hamper, I dust a little so no insect can live in my dirty clothes till they wash.
buns are more active and happy. I gave them an extra bowl of water JUST in case, as this stuff seems to suck moisture out of the air too, my hands are a bit dry so the buns need more liquid to drink. other than that and making sure they dont get any dust clouds around them, its totally safe. I saw a video of someone's two hedgehogs rolling around in a pile of it like a dust bath lol
I like Silica Blast on Amazon. I've used it for multiple grows now and it's only helped. Makes the leaves stand up really straight I find which is always good when you're trying to maximize how much light gets to all the leaves.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000EJZAWA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498245476&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=silica+blast&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41niBGp%2B15L&amp;ref=plSrch
Shit, they actually ran out.
&#x200B;
But there were a lot of other options I had found on amazon for about 0.03 cent per gram more expensive, I had spent about half an hour to forty minutes calculating values of products lol
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Things that are called "coco pith" are exactly the same as well btw
I use bleach and H202 as well depending on the use case. I use copper for when I'm spraying soils and keep the others for hydroponic use normally. No specific reason except that the copper stuff is just amazing. I've tried using bleach and water mixed on soil to manage fungus and its okay but a shot with the copper spray and most things just dissolve immediately.
This is what I use but the price on amazon is kinda... ouch, lol.
If you decide to try some it is probably more economical if buying online to shop elsewhere or get the concentrate and mix yourself.
I can't get hydroguard in my country but I found this alternative that is sooo much more concentrated and uses the same bacteria. I had to smuggle it across International borders, but I have enough to last me forever...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VXQG23O?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Oh I meant to drill the holes into the ceramic and just repot it into there without the plastic pot. I just moved it outdoors under a partially shaded area with only the plastic pot, since it has drainage holes.
I have this soil already, from a failed previous bonsai :(. I saw people talking highly about it here so Ill just use it for this one and hope for the best.
Would this soil be good for part of the mixture? http://www.amazon.com/Espoma-PR8-8-Quart-Organic-Perlite/dp/B002Y0AK6S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1407433678&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=perlite
I would buy ph up and ph down as well as some hydrion test strips (the ones that run from like 5.5 to 8 not the larger range). Use them to adjust the water after nutes are added, or if not adding nutes just adjust the water by itself (adding nutes to water affects ph so you want to adjust after, not before, adding them).
Your target range for soil should be 6.6.
6.4 or 6.8 is acceptable as well but no higher or lower if possible.
My advice: stop trying to do G2G from cakes to monotub; everytime I have tried spawning cakes to a monotub, it has resulted in contamination.
I have never worked with Penis Envy before, but I have found I can leave jars, whether they are cakes or grain spawn, for up to a couple weeks after they are done colonizing. I would wait for the other jars to colonize and then spawn them into a monotub all together.
I'm assuming you have just started growing. If you are going to use coir, it's vital to get the brick and not the bag. Here is a link, but I get mine from the local pet store. Pet stores sell the bricks in their reptile section, it's typically used as a bedding for reptiles, but it can also used for growing plants.
http://www.amazon.com/Natures-Footprint-Coconut-Coir-Brick/dp/B004W8BMS0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1397229833&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=coir
If this is your VERY FIRST GROW, I would just let you know, Penis Envy can be a more difficult strain to grow. Feel free to experiment but if you don't have experience, sometimes experiments go badly awry with contaminants, and then you have wasted time, wasted effort, and wasted money.
I recommend sticking to a specific tek. I believe it's good to get a couple PF grows done, to get the idea, before investing in a PC and doing a monotub, although a monotub will produce WAY more than cakes, when done correctly.
I have my own method, but this dude's tek is my bible.
http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/17897163
If you want simple, cheap and portable then DWC is the way to go. My DWC lettuce setup was super cheap to build and can be moved around easily, and I've had several very successful lettuce grows with it. I just bought a $15 container store plastic drawer and drilled some holes in it for net pots, and piped in some air for airstones. I used two of these powered by one of these. Medium is rockwool based in clay pebbles housed in standard plastic net pots.
So tallying it all up...
Container - $30 (could probably have found something much cheaper)
Air pump - $16
Air stones - $6 x 2 = $12 (could also have probably gotten away with smaller/cheaper stones)
Net pots = $6 (for a dozen, so that's 9 sites plus 3 to grow replacement seedlings to swap in)
Clay pebbles = $10
Rockwool = $16 (for a sheet that will last you through many harvests)
Lettuce seeds = $2
Grand total = $86 for absolutely everything needed (assuming you're using sunlight) you need to grow.
There's a few places I noted where you could probably buy cheaper than I did, so You could probably do the whole thing for under $70.
In terms of tools for assembly you will need a dremel or something similar to cut the holes, since the plastic is pretty tough. I suppose you could manage with some very heavy duty shears, but it would probably be a nightmare to cut by hand. And a drill for the air hose holes. Some black spray paint to keep down algae growth in the water supply would be good too.
Can't speak to climate, but leafy greens are pretty hearty and have continued to thrive during a few very high temp days here, so I suspect they'd do fine in Florida temps.
Do what he said but buy a digital ph meter and test the ph of your water. Some people have naturally high ph water, some have naturally low ph. You need to test to find out then figure out what you need to adjust ph.
I would also recommend "ph up" or "ph down" for hydroponic applications. http://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-pH-Up-Down/dp/B005LWS5Q8 Vinegar is fine but not great for plants.
Yes, I was growing tomatoes. The root system was huge by the time the plant was producing tomatoes. I got about 50 pounds of beefsteak tomatoes from 14 plants out of 64 so I cannot complain about that. The others died from the restricted waterflow. I ended up picking green for my last harvest because it was completely blocked by then.
I switched to DWC and have had much better success with stuff like that. I feel NFT is better for the smaller root systems such as lettuce.
If you're wondering what nutes I used for tomatoes:
General Hydroponics Flora Series
Botanicare Cal Mag Plus
Botanicare Silica Blast
General Hydroponics Liquid Kool Bloom
Thanks!
When I looked up sea of green, I got this, would using these work?
Sorry for all the questions, this is all a little overwhelming.
ATM, this is the plan. Would love more insight if you don't mind.
https://www.amazon.com/Count-Jiffy-Pellets-Seeds-Starting/dp/B000EHJN7K
and put in this with lids
https://www.amazon.com/Durable-Black-Plastic-Growing-Without/dp/B000E7MTUI/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524088888&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=10+Plant+Growing+Trays+%28No
then directly into soil.
We do have rabbit issues and I've read to be sure to protect them from a small age.
General rule here for planting outdoors is mother's day to avoid the last frost.
And we do have a boatload of rabbits so when placing in it's final spot
Have you tried “a popular online auction website”? That’s where I got mine, planted them in spring (kinda late, like...late May), and now the plants are 8’ tall. Super easy, to facilitate growth: I legit just had my first year planting my garden from seed. I have a thriving balcony (nearly “walkthrough”) garden, now. I had no idea planting from seed was so easy. I normally start with transplanting plants. Now it’s gorgeous. Will send pics of entire garden if interested.
Morning glories, cbd cannabis, Passion flower, red Krishna holy basil, khat, a rare yellow saffron, California poppy, red corn poppy, wild dagga, Klip dagga, pretty much, entirely a garden full of herbal therapies. My Mary is getting super stinky buds, too!
And yes, I can’t wait to toke a fresh joint of a Klip dagga flowering plant that I raised myself. Tip; don’t get frustrated if it is just leaves - they typically don’t start growing pods until they’ve hit 6’ tall.
Until then, they just grow huge leaves (to hold the nutrients, just, I presume..,) and then after hitting 6’ they grow pods at the top, then start cascading down the entire plant, from top to bottom.
Just do the following:
I promise as long as you have sun and don’t neglect them, you too can make this happen, in the spring/summer (warmer days of the year, in your climate, wherever it may be).
I think tonight I’m gonna toke what I grew for the first time, so much better satisfying growing it myself and confirming it is klip dagga, rather than getting “Klip dagga petals” from an eBay seller and ending up with subpar unclean wild dagga or whatnot, worrying about adulterants, etc... this is as pure and homey feeling as it gets.
Best of journeys! I believe you can do it!
TLDR: you can - i believe in you!
Awesome, thanks! Would the liquid stuff be just as good or is that meant for hydro systems? I’m growing in soil.
I’m looking at this :
https://www.amazon.ca/General-Hydroponics-Florabloom-Floramicro-Fertilizer/dp/B017H73708/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=general+hydroponics&amp;qid=1568638526&amp;sprefix=general+hydro&amp;sr=8-3
Would it be more wise to go with the full kit?
https://www.amazon.ca/General-Hydroponics-Flora-Performance-Pack/dp/B008UCCCII/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=general+hydroponics&amp;qid=1568638598&amp;sprefix=general+hydro&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;psc=1&amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyU1BPMVJBWTdEQTlZJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzI2MDk4MUI3QUpWQUFDRUY5OSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzYzNjM2MTdGNUpJSllIQlowVCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
Plant in ground or much bigger fabric pot asap. The smaller the pot the faster it'll dry out. Grab a basic nutrient profile like Fox farms trio; Basically a veg and a flower. The tri is nice because of the micro nutes. I've moved on to combining Fox farms Liquids, FF granular, and organic soil amendments myself but the trio is a decent place to start.
https://www.amazon.com/Fox-Farm-Liquid-Nutrient-Trio/dp/B01C0PEBES/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493212519&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=fox+farm+trio
Good luck.
I had a similar issue and realized I plugged my air pump into the timer power strip! I couldn't tell for a couple of days due to there being no problem with the lights on but i noticed it was suspiciously quiet walking by one day. If not this is a concentrated form of hydroguard. Same type of bacillus but higher percentage. Also enzymes like canna or hygrozyme. I've heard the powdered stuff for ponds works well too.
Hope this helps. I started my grow recently, so get another opinion on this haha.
Also it recently had a trunk chop that was growing straight up (from the store not me). I was wondering if I was still able to prune back branches because I read that work should not be done often to the tree. Is giving it a break my best option?
edit: another question while I'm at it. One plant I bought was from amazon, the other in the store at walmart. I feel like the soil is low quality. I would like to change it. Do you guys have ideas for top quality soil? does something like this work?
Look up silicablast for a silica additive. Link: https://www.amazon.com/Botanicare-Supplement-0-5-0-5-1-Formula-1-Quart/dp/B000EJZAWA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549207925&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=SILICA+BLAST
Recharge+ comes in a small plastic container that i think I paid $20 for. Link: https://www.amazon.com/Real-Growers-Recharge-8oz/dp/B00J1CAEIG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549207868&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=recharge%2B
I think you were looking at the 5lb bag.
my cardboard was pretty much soaked completely long before i transferred them outside. I read online and many people say its not the best (stunts growth).
I wanted to use peat pellets which are tiny pellets of soil that expand when you add water then you just pick them up and drop them in the soil when the sprouts are sprouted or peat pots which is basically compressed soil that you fill with more loose soil an the compressed soil loosen over time with water making it easier for the roots to go through. But i didn't use them because i got too excited to plant so i just ate some eggs and used the carton i had :p
Might be helpful if you post a few pics of your setup.
1: 18-24 inches. make sure you have good airflow over plants to minimize tip burn. Us a small fan if you can.
2: If you are only growing lettuce and harvest fast enough, you should be fine. The distance between plants is more important since lettuce will take up at least 8-10 inches per plant.
3: I have great luck with these rock wool cubes that drop right into 2 inch net pots after they germinate and send roots out (10 days or so) :
http://www.amazon.com/Grodan-A-OK-Starter-Plugs-Sheet/dp/B00168EO48
have fun
a good starter pack of nutrients - a small sized grow tent that can fit 4 plants - a fan ventillation system that will handle the smell when you get to flowering - airpots if you want to grow from soil - or DWC hydro buckets if you want to go hydro note that these are pretty easy to DIY, buckets are $5 ea and pumps run $20-50. LED lights to grow with for $160 or you can skip up to the good stuff and go with Quantum Boards which are far superior - not on amazon You can do a lot of your own work on these boards to make them not as expensive.
After your get some seeds, either from bag seed or from an online seller, its really just a matter of paying attention to what the plants are doing and keeping a good schedule with your nutrients or watering. There is a ton of information online, both on reddit and elsewhere that can guide you with anything.
https://www.amazon.com/Advanced-Nutrients-Bloom-Micro-Grow/dp/B004FYSDFQ
This is what i used. I haven't been PHing my water while using this and it's worked fine so far.
I have this product on its way. My lawn also has fungus issues I think.
Propiconazole 14.3 Select Honor Guard Broad Spectrum Fungicide by Honor Guard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015X6FIYS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TW5lzbY66DJ69
Also, confirm that you do not have grub issues.
The smell is like raunchy dead skunk. It's incredibly poignant! I can take more pics tonight.
I'm on Lucas Formula with the GH nutes. I have some autos going too who aren't such a fan of the Lucas Formula though. They're very cal hungry.
As for suggestions, I use Silica Blast at 5ml per gallon:
Botanicare Silica Blast 32 Ounce, Quart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EJZAWA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZpLKybSEH6BMB
Other people swear by Rhino Skin, or Amino Treatment by House & Garden for Silica.
Molasses is whatever you want, as long as it's unsulphured. I use this at 1tsp per gallon of WARM water:
Golden Barrel Blackstrap Molasses, Unsulphured, 32 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YOQOAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JwLKybR5BRGRS
If you want to try growing grass again.
Get this
Great White PRPSGW04 100049823 4 oz Mycorrhizae, 4 Ounce, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AU8JKR6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dpeECb3TRFB1F
Tear up the dirt and mix that shit in and keep the ground moist. Enjoy ☺️
Edit: or this
Vermicrop VCFIRE VermiFire Nutrient Rich Potting Soil, 1.5cf https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00823B1LE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LqeECbM0Y4PJD
Alright, awesome thanks man. That's a bit more than I need so I think I'll use this,
http://www.amazon.com/Natures-Footprint-Coconut-Coir-Brick/dp/B004W8BMS0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1414981257&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=coco+coir
Don't waste money on a pen. Get General Hydroponics ph test kit. The liquid kind are much more accurate.
MSU Fertilizer Well Water version (I have hard water). Backed by science, contains all the trace elements you need along with the proper proportions of elements. I'm not burning roots anymore.
I also used JR Peters 20-20-20 primarily because they added in the micronutrients.
I picked up a tip from the MSU fertilizer that I hadn't bothered to look up before. They encourage nitrogen levels at 125ppm during the winter and ~250ppm during the summer. This is where a TDS meter really comes in handy for verifying that you're pouring what you think you're pouring. My water measures in at 250ppm default (considered hard water), so with a full measuring cup using the measuring cup they supplied, my TDS reading came in at exactly 1250ppm (wow).
Using my weakly/weekly math - I can take that gallon container and pour exactly 16 ounces into my fertilizing container (1/4 its capacity), then fill the remainder with tap water and I'm right around 450/475.
The thing to remember and one of the things I'm looking for verification on is is that a TDS meter measures total dissolved salts. The MSU formulation I have contains ~20% nitrogen, so if you wanted to shoot for 250ppm, you'd want the total TDS value around 1250 to get what the vendor considers a full strength application.
Imagine my surprise when I measured my first pour and hit 1250 on the nose. The reason this exercise was important for me was because I poured what I thought was a quarter strength formulation of my JR Peters fertilizer (20-20-20) turned out to be 5x the recommended amount and sure enough I burned the shit out of some seedlings I'm growing right now.
Anyway - tl;dr - regardless of what you get - buy a TDS meter just so you can verify that what your pouring isn't over strength. I thought I was pouring quarter strength formula, I was in fact pouring 5x the recommended amount and plants died slowly as a result.
{edit} - ok so I was right about the calculations and total TDS numbers versus nitrogen %'s...
here's a handy calculator to verify dosages and you want to be in the 125 PPM range for slow feedings.
http://firstrays.com/free-information/feeding-and-watering/measurement-handling-application-of-fertilizers/fertilizer-tds-calculator/
Its not soil, for what it's worth, it's coconut shells, like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Natures-Footprint-650g-Coir-Brick/dp/B004W8BMS0
it's a sterile planting material.
If you're at 14 hours on they will not go into flower. There isn't a point to doing 15 minute intervals, you're over complicating it dude. Get on Amazon, buy this. Big bloom is for veg along with grow big. Tiger bloom is swapped with grow big once you start to flower. Use the nutrients at half strength. Veg them at 18 on 6 off until you see happy new growth and your plants are healthy. Do not flower a sick plant.
Edit: Didn't see that you were using the flora series.
I honestly don't know how much time I spend with it but i doubt it's much. I check water levels, test it with digital meters, and make any adjustments based on those readings 3 or 4 times a week. I don't really do a "harvest" because we just grab what we need when we need it.
In terms of cost, it can get somewhat expensive if you don't do your homework. For example, buying pre-mixed liquid fertilizer like this is easier to use but you're paying a premium for water and food coloring. You can get water soluble powdered fertilizers and add epson salt, which provides micros. I can't make a recommendation on those yet as I'm still testing various blends. I'm also going to try compost tea soon.
You'll also need a material to start seeds in. Rockwool is the most common but it can get expensive if you're just getting started because you'll likely kill a lot of plants. There are alternatives like coconoir but it is the easiest substance I've found thus far.
Finally, you'll need balancers that you'll use to adjust PH levels. That's something you won't need to buy often though.
It was a $5 ceramic pot from Walmart that was bigger than the one it came in. Forget what the bonsai purists say about what pot goes with what tree. Get one that you like that you think looks good with your tree. Bonsai is living art so have fun with it!
As for the soil I like to mix some Miracle Gro potting soil with either the tropical or all-purpose blend soil from tinyroots on amazon. I found the bonsai soil was too aerated by itself and the potting soil helped it retain a little moisture.
https://www.amazon.com/Bonsai-Tree-Soil-Purpose-Blend/dp/B007GS9ZGO
Keep in mind I haven’t even had this tree for a full season so I may not be the best advice :)
Mother Earth Coco Bale | 5kg | 100% Natural Coconut Fiber https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M69KV51/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4vRXDbEDV35PZ
Kempf Compressed Coco Fiber Growing Medium 11 Lbs. Block https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MOD2HY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pwRXDbFTHN8Z1
Or others similar if you want coco, I like prebuffered better than bricks but for shipping this is better
https://www.amazon.com/Peters-Classic-20-20-20-Purpose-Fertilizer/dp/B005LKNCZY/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=jacks+20-20-20&qid=1573336395&sr=8-4
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For very little $$ you will be set for end of veg and start of flower.
You need this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WP39T5Q/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
and https://www.amazon.com/Natures-Wisdom-Grade-Diatomaceous-Earth/dp/B00404X0AE/ref=sr_1_42?s=lawn-garden&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521582470&amp;sr=1-42&amp;keywords=diatomaceous+earth
I have 2 cats and both of these solutions are safe and work.
if planting in soil, I like to use jiffy peat pellets.
http://www.amazon.com/Count--Jiffy-Pellets-Seeds-Starting/dp/B000EHJN7K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1334178202&amp;sr=8-1
you soak them in water for 5-10 mins, they swell up to the size of an old film canister. Just use a pencil to poke a small hole in the top, drop the seed and GENTLY cover it with soil. You don't want to pack it down, but you don't want light shining on it directly.
I leave them in the jiffy peat pod until I see the roots busting through it (usually about a week or two) and then I just plant it in either the 7" container, or you can plant it in a party cup, then transplant it into a bigger container if you want.
You can plant the seedling directly into soil but make sure the soil is suitable for seedlings - I used fox farm ocean forest exclusively, but some people find that it kills their seedlings because it's too strong.
Most of us are making our own spawn from raw material.
Welcome aboard!
You can buy pre-made spawn online from a few sources.
My basic recipe is for 7 quart jars:
I use this coco coir, because it is not treated with tric
of this http://www.amazon.com/Natures-Footprint-650g-Coir-Brick/dp/B004W8BMS0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452306019&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=natures+footprint
perlite link
No, you don’t need a pressure cooker. A deep pot with a tight fitting lid will do just fine. You don’t really want to mix strains because different types require different factors for fruiting. a general rule of thumb is to stay consistent
I've got everything in my amazon cart now for a set up like you are looking for.
I purchased soil amendments from mephisto genetics as well as seeds and will have no need for extra nutrients. Also if you are fine with autos they have a great Black Friday sale going on.
http://mitch386.wixsite.com/mephistogenetics/product-page/35d08695-5331-6aab-5143-8d51f0df1fe1
These are the lights I'm going with, getting two.
Roleadro 300W LED Plant Grow Light Full Spectrum, 2nd Generation Series https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HI3AFYM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WR4nybSHBEVW8
32x32x63 tent
Giantex Indoor Grow Tent Room Reflective Mylar Hydroponic Non Toxic Clone Hut 6 Size (32''X32''X63'') https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PXK7ICK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2S4nybD1879PC
As far as soil I'm going to use coco coir for one plant and then a organic mix I used for my garden.
Nature's Footprint 650g Coconut Coir Brick https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004W8BMS0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AX4nybG2P84VD
As far as my ventilation fan I have one lying around the house and am using a cold plasma generator to neutralize odors instead of carbon filter.
That's kind of high. Do you have intake and exhaust fans set up? If you already do, I'd consider a supplement to help it do better in higher temperature.
General Advice:
Fertilizer:
Bugs:
Fungus:
Woh, that soil is WET and looks like it needs some pumice or perlite or something less organic. How long have you had these plants?
I was given an Aerogarden by my neighbor and when I went to add the provided nutrient package I realized that the salt had crystallized inside.
I have a small hydroponics setup besides the Aerogarden and use General Hydroponics nutrients in it. As soon I saw the crystallized salt I threw out the packs and used the nutrients I had for my other set up, and it has been doing good enough more me!
http://imgur.com/84YD9BU
I attached a link to the starter pack I bought. It has instructions on the bottles on how much to use of each product depending on the growth phase it's in.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B008UCCCII?pc_redir=T1
Here.
Add a spoonful or 2 of Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth to water in a shaker bottle and drink it. Do this twice a day and your hair, beard, and nails will grow faster and thicker.
It has no taste, just a slightly chalky texture. It's very good for you but FYI it will give you some lucid dreams for at least the first few nights. You'll also wake up super rested.
Adding hydroguard to the mix would probably solve your problem. Or you can get this, its the same bacteria in a more concentrated form.
You can try this.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004S6ZZFM/ref=ya_st_dp_summary?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This is my first grow so I just started looking at things on Amazon to be honest. Here is the link for it. I like the cosmetic effect also!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004IAM29K?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00
pH Up and Down, but I rarely use the pH Down
I'm using that same exact soil and also bought it from Amazon! I hope its not the soil. Mine would most likely die if I repot it again.
This is the soil:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007GS9ZGO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I was given this tree, this soil, and these pellets for my birthday recently. I live 10 feet away from a window at work and the idea was to keep the tree either next to my desk or on the window sill where it will be facing the east and be in sunlight from sunrise to about 3/4pm every day.
I have no idea how to get started, absolute no idea. This is what the tree looks like.
You dont need these size of bottles but these are what you want for the full grow, the ph up/down is to control your ph (obviously) so that's essential too.