(Part 3) Best surge protectors according to redditors

Buy a surge protector. The cheapest one you can find with a protection guarantee.

http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-6-Outlet-Office-Surge-Protector/dp/B000IF51UQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1367791281&sr=8-3&keywords=surge+protector

This 6 dollar one has a $15,000 guarantee.

Not that you'll cash in on it, but those are the ones that are least likely to fail as the company is putting it's money where it's mouth is.

I've never had a problem but I turn all my sensitive electronics off during the bad T-storms in addition to the protectors.

Or just buy a power strip that doesn't suck monkey nuts:

http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Outlet-Pivot-Surge-Protector/dp/B000JE9LD4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1398438555&sr=8-2&keywords=power+strip

http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-BE112230-08-12-Outlet-Protector-Protection/dp/B000J2EN4S/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1398438555&sr=8-7&keywords=power+strip


My fav:

http://www.amazon.com/Fellowes-Mighty-Surge-Protector-99090/dp/B00006B8K2/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1398438566&sr=8-17&keywords=power+strip

Sorry to hear that man, definitely hope you can get everything back up without too much hassle and while your out at the store please please pick yourself up one of these.

This

Re-image them. If you're set up correctly it should take less time and be more effective.

The other poster's point about NTFS is both right but also misses the point. Yes, NTFS is a journaled filesystem, but it will also store exactly what it is told to store, which means it is susceptible to memory bit flips.

Assuming you aren't running ECC memory on clients because money; it is possible for anything from the bus through memory to get bit flipped and put the computer into an unknown state. UPS's help mitigate this, but if those aren't in the budget then a power strip with noise filtering properties can help somewhat (e.g. this one note the "Filters Rfi/emi Noise").

I'll go ahead and give you links to Amazon, but they're available everywhere. Tripp Lite, as /u/Knobodycares said, is a great brand. They're most known for their server racks, and UPS systems, but more importantly their PDU (power distribution units), which is what you need.

Their best (pricey but best-in-class), is the Isobar line. 4 outlet, 6 outlet, 10 outlet. They shutdown when a surge which would otherwise fry your equipment occurs, instead of simply allowing the power through.

Their other models, 7 outlet, 8 outlet, 10 outlet, are also much better than your average retail brand, and are generally cheaper. They all come with some form of insurance, as-well.

These are only a handful of options, check out the rest here.

PID temperature controller
PT100
5 125W tea cup heaters (these are better and cheaper)
25A Solid state relay
Small pond water pump
cooling racks to allow water to circulate above and below (brisket floats)
Lamp wire
6 outlet extension

The brisket came out pink, juicy, and tender.

This for the WiFi and Bluetooth and this surge protector are decent.

(note that with this card you'll lose 2 of your front USB ports, if that's not okay with you let me know and I'll look for something else)

Ah....well. The good news is that the UPS you're using is on ATT's approved list for Uverse equipment. The bad news the problem might be caused by your power configuration--any of the devices on that same circuit could be backfeeding bad voltage that only affects the ATT modem. If that's the case, it will be difficult if not impossible to isolate and fix. Maybe see if you have a way to monitor frequency fluctuations or power spikes in the output.

See what the technician says tomorrow. I hope he finds something like a bad splice in your yard or an unpolished fiber tip. If not, then I recommend focusing on your power configuration. Ask the technician if he has one of these on his truck--we informally refer to them as "Isobars".

Beyond that...I wish I had a specific recipe for you but unfortunately I don't. But at least you're a little closer to the answer now.

http://www.amazon.com/Philips-SPP1591WA-Protector-Flexible-Outlets/dp/B000XRXCCS

Furman Power Conditioner 15 Foot Cord

Furman PST-2+6 Power Station 8 Foot Cord

8-Outlet Power Strip Surge Protector 4,500 Joule 6-Foot Cord

12-Outlet Power Strip Surge Protector 4,320 Joule 10-Foot Cord

Quick amazon search came across this: http://www.amazon.com/3-Way-Switch-Selector-Splitter-XBOX360/dp/B004T8KZCM

I have all my systems hooked into my Vizio. So i'm pretty sure they can run on any television, just comes down to preference. And I know i've seen people post that they use splitters like this to connect all their systems. I'm not there yet, but once I move out i'll be investing in these and maybe a few of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Philips-SPP1591WA-Protector-Flexible-Outlets/dp/B000XRXCCS/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1334657097&sr=1-3

Hope I helped!

I have a 20yr old version of one of these that I only took out from under my monitor recently because it made it too high. I bought it brand new and it was on 24hrs a day for at least 15 years.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AKA90/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_6Gixub0KTGCXJ

Surge protectors with longass cords. Extension cables are against code and could catch fire/ void your renter's insurance if there is a fire.

https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-7-Outlet-Protector-12-Foot-BE107200-12/dp/B000JEC7CQ/

Server room equip is all on UPS, and the cables are run through the drop ceiling on the same route as the rest of the cables. They only differentiate from this standard route at the very end of the line where the office used to end, and now they pass through onto the new construction. There's nothing else up there besides fire suppression and brand new HVAC. Break room is in the opposite corner of the building, about as far from this run as possible.

I will have to check power fluctuations on the newly installed electrical. I'm not confident in the install job for that, since I blew a printer and a power strip when I plugged them into one of the new outlets. Turned out one of the wires was loose between the breaker and the outlets in that office. I have each PC plugged into one of these.

I'm just gonna get a couple of these instead. Thanks!

There are also units that have swappable battery packs too if you live in an area with frequent power issues so you don't have to replace the whole thing: https://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-IG2240-IMSK-Intermatic-Smart-Guard-IG2240-IMSK-Whole-Surge-Protector/dp/B00SBC0LTE/

It looks like you have a coax and standard power outlet.

First I would get a 90 degree coax adapter and fit that onto the outlet:
https://www.amazon.com/VCE-5-Pack-F-Type-Coaxial-Adapter/dp/B0107KMBJK

Second I would get (or keep the existing) power strip that has a flat head and sits closer to the wall:
https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-6-Outlet-Commercial-Protector-BE106000-06R/dp/B000JJI6XA/

Once the cables' ends are sitting flat, I would use a cable management cover to route and cover the cables from the outlets to the ground. These things can be painted so they blend into the wall better:
https://www.amazon.com/AVF-UA180W--Premium-Management-Length/dp/B004B33Z5O/

To cover the outlets I would find a way to create a box that can be stuck to the wall and matches your cable management covers. Something similar to this but better:
https://www.amazon.com/Arlington-CE1-1-Recessed-Cable-1-Gang/dp/B002W6ZPXM/

Depending on your needs, a simple in-line surge protector could work. Much cheaper than getting the power strip/surge protector hybrid.

External to the outlet itself, not internal. Something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/KMC-3-Outlet-Protector-Charging-Certified/dp/B0798M639B/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=usb+surge+protector+wall+mount&qid=1565242265&s=gateway&sprefix=usb+surge&sr=8-3

A little bit of This

A little bit of That

A few of These

Only one of These

And if you're feelin' frisky, one of These

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078162HNC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Gj9PDbTX00H3F

This thing right here changed my life

I have a question about turning on/off my new Schiit Magni and JBL LSR305 speakers through one of these things. I have the three things I just mentioned all connected to their own switch so I can turn them off without having to reach around to the back.

Is this bad for any of the equipment? Is there a reason I should really be using the power switch on the back of the device itself instead of the power strip thing?

Thanks.

Bonus pictures of why it's annoying to have to switch them off (specifically the Magni).

Another poster linked to this whole home surge protector with replaceable modules: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SBC0LTE

The modules: https://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-IModule-IG120RSM10K-Replacement-Module-Smart-Guard-Protector/dp/B00SBC0DMY

Here you go! All that has been done was a hole was cut into the wall and then the box was slid in and screwed to the studs. I then have this power strip mounted to the inside and everything is plugged into that. As stated by another on here, this is against code.

These are the ones I am looking at...

https://www.amazon.com/Kensington-Guardian-15-Foot-Protector-K38215NA/dp/B00PBWV6SW/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503596843&sr=1-6&keywords=power+strip+15+ft

https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-7-Outlet-Protector-12-Foot-BE107200-12/dp/B000JEC7CQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503596768&sr=8-2&keywords=belkin+power+strip+12ft

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Protector-INSURANCE-TLP615/dp/B0068LACAI/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503596843&sr=1-3&keywords=power+strip+15+ft

Get an under-monitor power strip?

Buy this and ground it to you rack or a metal shelf.

APC PTEL2 ProtectNet Standalone Surge Protector for Analog/DSL Phone Lines (2 Lines, 4 Wires) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006BBGS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UTm2CbKDACPBS


Or just buy this and plug it into an outlet.

APC 8-Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip with Telephone and DSL Protection, 2525 Joules, SurgeArrest Performance (P8T3) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012YLTSA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2Um2Cb7GKQHFD

Trying to get the home-office cleaned up a little bit. On this pic we have:

1. Dual 1257 Turntable.
   
2. ART DJPREII Phono Preamplifier (behind right speaker, can't really see it)
   
3. Klipsch Promedia 2.1 desktop speakers.
   
4. APC 7-Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip 1440 Joules, SurgeArrest Essential (PE76)
   
5. IKEA Alex
   
   This got the turntable off the work desk and cleaned up a bit. More cleanup is needed. But it's all there, at least.
   
   My next step is to buy a Roll Mx422 mixer and mix the sound in with my work computer, which has a pair of JBL 305P MK II Studio Monitors on it.
   
   Yes, I need to put something under the speakers. Getting to that. Baby steps.

Is it one of those cheapie extention cords, the ones that are generally a fire hazard? Like this?

If it is, those things are usually not enough to transfer the amount of power needed for the PS3. Maybe a surge protector with a very long cord will do better, like this.

If its an industrial-type extension cord, like one of the orange ones you would use for outdoor equipment, that may not be the best idea, either.

Electronics are confusing.

Here's the surge my PC/speakers/monitor are hooked up to: http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-7-Outlet-Office-Surge-Protector/dp/B000JEC7CQ/ref=sr_1_20?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1376326150&sr=1-20&keywords=surge+protector

It's pretty cheap but its got stellar reviews and has a light that lets you know when the tripping mechanism is broken (they can only trip a certain number of times).

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Belkin-Surge-Master%C2%AE-8-Way-Protection/dp/B00009RIP8/ref=sr_1_49?ie=UTF8&qid=1375202056&sr=8-49&keywords=power+extension+8

Something like this.

Something else to consider with an antenna if its mounted outside : lightening.

I'm far enough from towers I use a signal amplifier. You can find them with more outputs, which is helpful if you are running cables to several t.v.s. I ordered one of these : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003DRMKXW/

I installed one of these, where the coax goes to the input port on the amp: [link goes to small surge protector] https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L5JN0UQ

One thing I want to point out - if you use a surge protector and amplifier, it matters where you have your surge protection. Should be before the amplifier. I have used power strip / surge protectors that handily have a cable in / out for antenna surge protection, near the t.v., but over time, the amp will slowly burn it out (over the course of months.)

I got fed up with that too, that's why I bought a bunch of these wall mount (really should be called "outlet mount" imo) surge protectors with 4 USB ports and put one in every bedroom and another near the couch. No more wall warts blocking outlets.

Would the surge protector coax connections be sufficient? I have this surge protector that I planned on using in that location.

Thought it was something like that.

I'd recommend picking up something with a little more meat to it.

Here is one that I use

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0012YLTSA/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1500245418&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=apc+surge+protector&dpPl=1&dpID=41Y2Pzw8KnL&ref=plSrch

It has a flush 90 degree plug as a feature as well.

They are on the same circuit. I have all the outlets for the entertainment area hooked into a single breaker. Then at the entertainment center, I have all the equipment plugged into a belkin surge protector (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IF9QW0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1).

​

I do have a ground cable nut on my receiver. I don't have anything running to it at the moment as I believe this is more for turntable interference than actually grounding the receiver.

​

Do you have an easy way to see if it's a ground loop?

You do understand that there are different sizes for your needs right? You’re looking at a six plug outlet wanting it to have seven. Here your search is over.

Just gonna sneak a comment on my own thread...
Ive been researching now, I'm thinking this setup :

Smartthings hub. This should allow me to connect motion sensors and a bunch of other things that I may want to add in the future.

Then add a few of these bulbs.
GoControl Z-Wave Dimmable LED Light Bulb, LB60Z-1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PJH16UC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_JjfBybQV80Y2Y

And finally this to control the coffee maker and maybe a space heater that I want to turn on a bit before I wake up(so I get out of my comfy warm bed and don't have to keep the heat up high overnight)

Samsung SmartThings Outlet, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MI5V5N6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_npfBybVG81WFT


Thoughts? All that compatible and have limited reliability issues? I want to avoid WiFi devices because I've been reading if your network drops, so does the actions you schedule

After looking at what the harmony can connect to, Smartthings is in there. I'm hoping that means I can add activities to harmony that will allow me to voice control the lights?

Thanks!

A power strip. Somthing like this

I've thought about things like this too.

But then I observe the "state of the art" phone intercom systems some people still have in their homes, all fucked up and broken, and outdated and antiquated, and I thought to myself it probably wouldn't be a smart "future proofing" type of thing.

I would just do regular outlets and have some cool USB wall plugs from amazon that can do both and won't cause you a headache later to try and rewire things or have to replace all the outlets etc.

https://www.amazon.com/POWRUI-Adapter-Protector-Charging-Certified/dp/B078162HNC?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1

Like this?

As far as a battery backup, I don't use one but I haven't had a blackout/brownout in years. Even after Hurricane Sandy my power stayed on. My friend on the other hand lives in a rural area where he experiences brownouts and blackouts frequently. His computers are all on battery backups, with a diesel generator outside for the times where the power gets cut completely (frequent during storms, especially in the winter.)

As far as a surge protector, yes you should have one (with a rating in joules). They're a small investment (around $10-20 depending on the rating) and well worth it.

I don't follow you. This is one of the more popular "power bars" here:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Belkin-SurgeMaster-8-Way-Modem-Protection/dp/B00009RIP8/

After the modem, hue, pvr, tv, laptop, phone charger, and various other things demanding an outlet..... I decided to make one power bar with those "spaced out" plugs.

• https://www.homedepot.com/p/Tripp-Lite-12-Outlet-Power-Strip-SS3612/206998399
  
  Not cheap, so I look for a sale. But I no longer need to plug power bars into power bars to get enough plugs. Other variations...
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-8-Outlet-Commercial-Protector-BE108000-08-CM/dp/B002QPZXH2
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/OviiTech-Protector-Charging-Protection-Extension/dp/B074BTVRK7
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Woods-Power-Outlets-Heavy-duty-Design/dp/B000FPDF5M

Short answer -

But this Belkin BV107030-04-BLK AV Power Strip Surge Protector and Coaxial Protection

edit - or a more $$ one if you like. Belkin 8-Outlet Power Strip Surge Protector w/Flat Plug, 6ft Cord



And don't worry about grounding.

Try the antenna first, then hook this up (to a regular grounded outlet) to make sure it does not degrade the signal.

Lets see what the experts here have to say. But I stand by my recommendation.

I can chime in later with other thoughts. If needed.

I would have a surge protector installed on the main breaker panel of the RV or one that is inline on the power hookup.so that it protects the entire RV from surges. You never know the quality of power at RV parks.

For example:
Hard wire--> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013WINMK6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_d41JBbBPGFY2K

Inline--> https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Wiring/Camco/CAM55312.html plus it checks the incoming power before you hook up

A voltage regulator is good for compensating for low or high voltage but they are crazy expensive to cover the entire RV, they are only like $50 for plug in ones for any appliance you want one on.

Hi, thanks for the reply..
Yes, I believe "feedback" was the wrong term. The noises are inconsistent hissy/buzzy/crackling sounds, and they don't seem to have anything to do with any of the inputs. It sounds like they are haphazardly picking up some kind of messy little electronic signals.. Also, yes my monitors are powered and have 3 pronged power cables. I currently have everything plugged into this, but I don't know if that counts as a "conditioner."

I was previously running into the same monitors with a different interface (and using XLR cables instead of RCA to XLR), and had no problems.. so I'm assuming the culprit is either the new DAC or the new cables.. Any ideas?

You could integrate some /r/homeautomation using Presence Detection to detect when you are home and automatically power off the cameras and then automatically turn them back on when you are not present.

There are many ways to do presence detection and trigger things but here is one. With the following 3 items, you can set the outlet to automatically turn off/on the switch when you arrive/depart. Note: this (the hub) does require internet access (3/4g router?)

Arrival Sensor (for keyring): https://shop.smartthings.com/products/samsung-smartthings-arrival-sensor-new

Outlet automated switch: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Outlet-Works-Amazon/dp/B00MI5V5N6

Samsung SmartThings Hub (required): https://shop.smartthings.com/products/samsung-smartthings-hub

If you don’t want to spring for a full-on power conditioner, this isolated power strip made a big difference for me.

Also, keeping signal cables away from power cables, or crossing them at right angles only.

My project was pretty much a smart outlet. (Coincidentally one of my prototypes used the same zigbee communication standard that Samsung now uses.) The difference between these two was that I wanted my device to handle high current as well as non-linear loads without using relays (for increased reliability) so I made use of opto isolated solid state relays, which in the end produced a decent amount of heat that made high current loads challenging lol

Anyway, my team made three fully working prototypes and each one of our failures was a learning experience which is the whole point of the experience.

That's possible. I have everything in the house running through some kind of protection for that reason. I actually have the cable line for internet run through a surge protector (like this https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Cable-Coaxial-Protector/dp/B01L5JN0UQ) and then the ethernet line off that also run through a surge protector. We haven't lost any equipment since I did that and added UPSs over 10 years ago.

It's one of these.

The 6-gang also charges the OPO at a reasonable rate.

If you need something a bit more affordable, this is more than good enough for most homes:

http://www.amazon.com/APC-Office-SurgeArrest-Splitter-Protection/dp/B0012YLTSA/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1420586922&sr=8-13&keywords=surge+protector+apc

Wow. Thank you so much. What a fascinating and well-written answer (sincerely).

Is there any terminology that would distinguish the two kinds of 'surge protector'?

I would be interested in seeing a picture of the letter (that the telcos etc use to ground to earth) just to know what they look like.

I know very little about electrics and wiring, but would this be an example of the 'whole house' protector that you mentioned — which fits onto the breaker and routes a surge to earth?

https://www.amazon.com/Siemens-FS140-Whole-House-Protection/dp/B013WINMK6

Finally, as you obviously know so much about this, is there any type of surge protection you would recommend for private users? I have a great desktop and four monitors which I always worry about whenever there is lightning. I have one of those tiny retail surge protectors which you justifiably ridiculed, but would be prepared to invest in something that actually stood a chance of working.

You mean like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SBC0LTE/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_T.SLDbYKERS0B

Yeah, I'm more comfortable with the amazon basic model, same price, higher rating, apparently far less likely to burn my house down. Better yet, the APC 8 outlet for $5 more.

They might replace the vending machine with one of these devices. Of course with package and posting, installation costs, staff training costs etc, they are unlikely to ever see a return on their investment.

As a side note, this place is probably run by one of my friends who left the banking industry to give something back to society.