(Part 2) Best surge protectors according to redditors
We found 796 Reddit comments discussing the best surge protectors. We ranked the 250 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
6 AC + 2 USB almost as slim surge protector (same price, even)
you need one of these now. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F8ZQY5M/ i have one for my bench.
You can buy it HERE.
I like this Belkin one that has 2 USB charging ports.
write up on it
purchase here
edit:
also for those not caring about aesthetics and just want usb ports..try this
Get this if you must run Ethernet outside.
Ubiquiti ETH-SP-G2 Surge Suppressor/Protector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HXKRW1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bf5XCbXBD3XGE
It’s well known and cheap.
One on each end.
> Phone power brick+cord.
That's not a small profile plug. I'm talking something more like this: https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-6-Outlet-Power-Protector-Rotating/dp/B0090YEVSE?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1 something that is really low profile.
My solution was using a timer controlled surge protector: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002K8M9HM
​
I have it setup to turn off and on every night.
The audio had a lot of snapping to ground arc sounds. Something degraded causing that issue. Insulation breakdown on the utility cables? Your rain storms are great clues. Keep a surge protector on your electronics just in case.
If it doesn't help, you may need an actual line filter. like so... https://www.amazon.com/APC-2-Outlet-Mount-Power-Filter/dp/B000OF4R8C
Surge protects, like previously said, are good for like...MAYBE one little hit of bad weather. APC / UPS (they are the same thing) are designed, most of the time, with lightning strikes and really bad weather in mind.
We have them on all the computers at work, oh power went out...keep working for 10-20 mins getting everything saved that was open and then power down. Or if its just a small surge that briefly for a second kicks off power then you won't even lose power at all :)
I live in FL.... having a UPS is sooooo worth it. Doesn't even need to be crazy expensive. I have had this before and never a problem on my desktop with everything plugged in: UPS
Surge outlet for SMALL storm hits....would hopefully fry it before whatever is plugged into it : Outlet
Sorry this was the conditioner I got (UK specific obviously): http://www.amazon.co.uk/Tacima-Conditioner-Frequency-Interference-Filter/dp/B000PS5700/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1405533143&sr=8-14&keywords=ground+loop+isolator
>Edit: It's in frequently bought together section but I can't seem to find a North American one. Do you think just the isolator will do?
It definitely can't hurt to try. The mains conditioner is likely to not help much at all if it really is just ground loops. I only got one to cover all my bases just in case.
If you need a surge protector, get a Belkin. I bought a 8 socket for 1.2k - holds good till date. There are other socket options too.
https://www.amazon.in/Belkin-Essential-F9E400zb1-5MGRY-4-Socket-Protector/dp/B007T5S0G0
I know you're looking for some calculations and power consumption theory, but while we're on the subject I thought you might also be interested in ways to accurately measure this kind of thing.
Here are some items you can buy to help monitor power usage:
https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4330-Kill-Surge-Protector/dp/B004OG94VW
https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU
Sure!
The tent is a GGT4x4
The metal rack is a Grow Room Gear Board, also made by gorilla. It snaps to the top and bottom tent poles of any side and feels really sturdy. Definitely my favorite tent addition so far since I was hanging things in super wonky ways before this. ><
The power strip is just a cheapo all metal bar that I got from a Fry's electronics in Southern California several years ago. I've seen them around at other places as well, but for all intents and purposes it's just like these bars on amazon, Stanly Power Bar.
Get a "power saving power strip". I use these all over the house on computers, TVs, audio gear. You plug the TV into the master outlet. When that outlet is using power, it turns on the slave outlets. Then turns them off when the master goes idle. Perfect for soundbars, streaming devices, etc. I have used one of these on all my Rokus for at least 6 years without any problems.
Here's an example, but I haven't used this particular one, so I'm not recommending this specific product: https://www.amazon.com/Niagara-Conservation-energy-Protector-N9122/dp/B007C995YO/
Here are things from my wishlist (past and present)
Wera Screwdrivers
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0085NTQJK/
Oscillating blade set:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0109SELWA/
Clamp multimeter:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00NWGZ4XC/
Kreg Jig Jr.:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000J43A7W/
Angled Long Nose Pliers:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00N3VSS4S/
Groove Lock Pliers:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000FK1R0W/
11 ft wifi endoscope:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01MYTHWK4/
non contact voltage tester:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001UAHZAM/
claw nail puller:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0015YPJMY/
Workmate portable work bench:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000077CQ0/
Cable snake fish tape:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000BP7WBO/
9 Outlet metal power bar:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00F8ZQY5M/
Spade drill bit set:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00099E7WE/
36" bubble level:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000UKMWMO/
Power strip with master/slave switching would work https://www.amazon.com/Niagara-Conservation-energy-Protector-N9122/dp/B007C995YO/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1537187711&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=power+strip+saving
Has the TV got a USB port?
https://www.amazon.com/TrickleStar-Outlet-Advanced-PowerStrip-Joules/dp/B00JPDYYSM/
https://www.amazon.com/Niagara-Conservation-energy-Protector-N9121/dp/B007C995YO/
I would highly recommend investing in a high quality surge protector. I am an IT guy and would recommend either an APC Surge Strip or a Kill-A-Watt Surge Strip.
APC makes a solid product that we sell and recommend to all of our customers from home users to enterprise businesses. I use an APC Surge Strip on my entertainment center and PC setup. (Runs about $5000 worth of equipment)
I personally use the Kill-A-Watt for my grow room because of the extra display features and built in EMI filter to reduce line noise. (Runs about $2500 worth of equipment)
Belkin 6 Outlet Surge Protector with USB
$18, turns one outlet into 6 plus 2 usb, also surge protected
Surge protector or short extension cables.
Belkin SurgeMaster 6 Outlet Wall-Mount Surge Protector
I currently do this with 2 Unifi UAP AC Mesh AP (UAP-AC-M) units. I routed Ethernet to 1 unit outside the house. The 2nd unit is mounted outside my garage connected via wireless "mesh" to the house unit. I run POE to both, and the garage unit "supplies" network connections through the LAN side of the POE unit.
You should consider using surge protectors on any Wifi AP mounted outside. Ubiquiti makes these nice affordable units: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079HXKRW1/
Yeah. I like this one because it handles multiple wall-warts well.
They are very easy to install. The whole house SPD wires into its own 50A 2-pole breaker (+neutral bar +ground bar). The HVAC SPDs wire into the line-side of the disconnects (2 hot + ground). An electrician would probably charge for an hour of labor - so $80-100. They would probably prefer to sell you their SPD that they carry in their truck, which is rarely an Eaton. FYI - Steve Jenkins blog compares several whole house SPDs.
Something like this is probably more ideal.
Ubiquiti ETH-SP-G2 Surge Suppressor/Protector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HXKRW1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CKytDbHE9TC76
Yes there is! and it's cheap too! Its a simple outlet timer. My grandparents used to use these so they would never come home to a dark house after work. This [one] (http://smile.amazon.com/APC-P4GC-Power-Saving-Essential-SurgeArrest/dp/B002K8M9HM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1398351283&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=APC+SurgeArrest+Essential+Power-Saving+Timer) is digital and a surge protector.
My roommates and I need a router - and you might too! (Though they're a bit more than $10!)
Aside from that, the hollow ottomans you can find at Walmart, and apparently not on Amazon, are usually lifesavers. They can store bits and pieces that you generally want near you but don't want just lying around everywhere. They come in fun colors too.
Under the $10 mark though, I'd have to say power strips/surge protectors are always super handy. There will always be more plugs and chargers than there are outlets in your walls!
I'm currently attending Clarkson University up in Potsdam, NY for Digital Arts & Sciences. Read: half programming, half graphic design. I also have a Business Administration minor, and I hope to go on to graduate studies at some point in my life!
Belkin portable power strip
Great for coffee shops or airports when all of the outlets are being used. Also a great conversation starter, "Hey, do you mind if I plug you into a surge protector?" I've never had anyone say no.
I have only 2 wires in the sockets who makes noise as opposed to 3 in the good one, so I think it's not grounded.
I didn't know that about the surge protectors, I think I have to invest in another one because I didn't have this noise before. Do you have any ideas?
A power filter can also do the trick but they are expensive. I don't think you have to replace it in the future so it may be a good investment after all.
Your case is a bit more tricky because you have the problem at the university but a little surge protector can solve it. But like you said, they don't tell what technology they use...
You seem very opinionated on this topic. What is your opinion on something like this?
It's got surge suppression, its got a cover over the switch to reduce accidental turn-offs, and it's 20amp.
Yes, I have one of these and it was good enough to get a second. The only downside is they do reset on power loss, and they occupy the entire outlet.
They also make a power bar version:
https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4330-Kill-Surge-Protector/dp/B004OG94VW
I would recommend PowerStrip Pad PD and PowerPort Atom PD 2 for your situation. Do you really ever charge more than 2 or 3 PD devices at a time?
Outside of smartthings, you can have your TV on the trigger outlet on a power strip like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007C995YO/ so that your lights only receive power when the tv is on.
And inside smartthings, just have your bias lights turn on at sunset and off at sunrise.
Nevermind, I can post several links obviously
Indoor Outdoor Projector Screen,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F1VLRZ6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
J-Tech Digital Ultra HD 4K HDMI to HDMI + Audio (Spdif + RCA Stereo) Audio Extractor Converter(Support Apple TV 4 Gen) Premium Quality https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YHS5E6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_G8ZdIxDbFbxhh
VANKYO Leisure 510 Full HD Projector with 3600 Lux, Video Projector with 200" Projection Size, Support 1080P HDMI VGA AV USB with Free HDMI Cable and Carrying Bag https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G2Y5LX9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MxYBCbDMFNHW7
Jeteven Polyester Hanging... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075WWRRZV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
AUKEY Table Lamp, Touch Sensor... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AJ7F14I?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Mini Dj Disco Ball Party Stage... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074RKPSDK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Sennheiser HD 579 Open Back... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L1IIF1K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Flash Furniture High Back Black... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012JJ2EEY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
P3 P4330 Kill A Watt Ps 10 Surge... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004OG94VW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
LG 29WK600-W 29" UltraWide 21:9... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078GL93KG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Onkyo TX-SR373 5.2 Channel A/V Receiver with Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XVGCBZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kCYBCbJTN8QJ1
Polk Audio T15 100 Watt Home Theater Bookshelf Speakers (Pair) - Premium Sound at a Great Value | Dolby and DTS Surround | Wall-Mountable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002RJLHB8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OCYBCbX2TX5XM
Polk Audio PSW10 10" Powered Subwoofer - Featuring High Current Amp and Low-Pass Filter | Up to 100 Watts | Big Bass at a Great Value | Easy integration Home Theater Systems https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KVQBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mDYBCbWN7VD6T
TCL 43S425 43 Inch 4K Ultra HD Smart Roku LED TV (2018) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DK5PZFY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3DYBCbZ7TGJ9X
Plus an Asus rog laptop gtx 1060 16gb ram, two ps3s, Corsair hs60 headphones, vmoda Crossfade wireless, a Google chromecast
Yes it is possible. There are many thousands of EMI/RFI filters sold as electrical parts, which we electronics hobbyists build into our gear. Here are 758 of them at UK Mouser, an electronics distributor: (LINK)
All you need to do is find consumer end-products which contain one of these.
Perhaps one of these products from UK Amazon might contain an EMI/RFI filter:
LINK#1
LINK#2
LINK#3
If so then you're good to go. If not and if you are desperate, you can buy some EMI filters (as components) from UK Mouser, put them in an insulated chassis, hook up the appropriate AC mains connectors, and build your own.
Since your dad is an electrical engineer, he will be comfortable reading product selection guides from manufacturers. Forward him these so he can read up on what's available and how well it works
Technical Info A
Technical Info B
> I'm thinking of setting up an EFHW wire … in an inverted V
If you're going to support the middle anyway, why not put up a dipole instead? You will have fewer RFI problems (in both TX and RX).
> I'd also like to set up an upconverter, RTL-SDR, RPi3, and PC software to get a nice wide waterfall over HF bands - using the same antenna. … do I need to protect the upconverter/SDR/Pi from the transmitter power, switching it out with a relay or something?
You're going to need a switch of some sort anyway.
If you don't want to use the K2 and the RTL-SDR at the same time, you just need a simple switch (example).
If you do, then hooking up two receivers at the same time needs a power divider (what cable TV setups would call splitter), and you'll want to switch that out of circuit for transmitting (I wouldn't expect one to provide enough port-to-port isolation to protect the RTL-SDR). The common kind of switch (or relay-operated switch) that would fit this application is called a transfer switch — it has four ports and can be used to take the divider out of circuit temporarily leaving a straight path between the K2 and the antenna.
> We get very little convective weather here, but even so - it should be adequate to protect ethernet with https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008060BU0, and the long wire with the ground on the transformer box?
Lightning protection is hard. First read about lightning protection for outdoor antennas. Once you understand that topic, only then think about how to protect the additional stuff. (The outdoor part must be considered disposable
in this case no matter what, I think.)
Option One, Option Two, Option Three
I don't know how much your amps cost (mine are probably way cheaper) and they're on a beast of a power protection system.
Dude - Kill-a-Watt is so yesterday. I disagree with the contention that the Outlink is unreliable - my experience is that it maintains its on/off state even with the hub is disconnected from the internet. The crappiness of the Outlink is you cannot set the cost per kWh. Which sucks.
My recommendation is the "Belkin Conserve Insight Energy Use Monitor" - comes with a six foot long cord to the display unit - no issue with obstables. Check it out on Amazon - http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Conserve-Insight-Monitor-F7C005Q/dp/B003WV5DBU
> few times saying "Power supply surges detected" Asus Anti-Surge"
I have no idea what is causing this, but I always plug all my PC hardware into a surge protector.
If you need any suggestions on surge protectors, this is a pretty good one for a reasonable price:
http://www.amazon.com/APC-Outlet-2525J-Surge-Protector/dp/B0012YJQWQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1425249037&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=apc+surge+protector
http://www.musicplayers.com/reviews/guitars/2009/0609_Furman.php
I'd have to respectfully disagree. It is not the same as plugging into a power strip and a UPS is designed for proper shutdown of equipment in the event of a power failure.
And the difference between:
This
http://images.amazon.com/images/G/01/electronics/detail-page/B000I5LACO-1-lg.jpg
And this
http://www.musicplayers.com/reviews/guitars/2009/images/Furman_PLplusSmall.jpg
...is way more than just a price tag.
I've been using this the last few months:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DFFX34P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Charges great, and replaced a couple of other power bricks for my phone and watch, plus a couple of outlets for other things.
I have amps running on 240v, no easy way to surge protect, so have one of these installed.
http://i.imgur.com/80Lcifl.jpg
It's good to use these as well as strips when you can. For heavy duty stuff I was using these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00077IS32
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004OG94VW
I'm using a z270-P mainboard with both m2 pcie adapters in order to get 8 cards on each rig (I have two currently). I power 4 risers, and 4 gpu's on each PSU. The "main" PSU also has the load of the board power requirements as well.
I noticed I was using very close to the max capacity of the PSU's combined last week and tuned the cards down to 60%. Now each rig chugs along at about 1000W with each card putting out ~30MH/s ETH and 300MH/s SC (1070 FE's) for a total of ~240MH/s ETH and 2.4GH/s per rig.
In my testing AMD cards used about twice as much power when overclocking...if you don't have a power usage monitor you should get one so you don't have unexpected issues. I personally like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003WV5DBU
EDIT: rig's each have 2 evga 750 PSU's
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https://www.amazon.com/APC-Protection-SurgeArrest-Performance-P8VT3/dp/B0012YJQWQ
Socket Sense Expandable. Works.
You don't need to bury it, but you want to get CAT6 cable that's rated and shielded for outdoor use, something like this.
You should also get ethernet surge protectors, so that you don't fry your gear if you get hit by lightning or some critter chews your cables. You'd place one on each end of the run, like so:
[router]--~cat6~--[surge protector]--~cat6~--[surge protector]--~cat6~--[pc]
Hope this helps.
A surge suppressor (or protector) has a resistor in it that will protect your electronics from electrical surges. A basic one doesn't cost much since there isn't much to it. If you want a better one, go for something that's rated at least 600 joules. If you spend over $30 and didn't get a battery backup then you were ripped off. If it doesn't show a joule rating then don't buy it, it's not doing any surge suppression.
What are you VIN, VOC, LIN readings on the nest settings--->technical info--->power
Do you have a multimeter?
The lightning could have damaged the nest or the base.
How old is the thermostat?
I have never seen a surge protector installed on a hvac unit.....buy there should be more of them.
I install one on every boiler I install, I accually go one further, I install a APC Pro Pure Sine UPS with AVR to give extra protection against brownouts and quick blackouts. But my boilers plug into a receptical so its easier.
There are surge protectors you can wire into your hvac equipment to give protection here are a couple:
https://www.supplyhouse.com/MARS-83905-HVAC-Surge-Protection-Device-120-240v
Intermatic AG3000 Surge Protector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VM6MXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0hTzDbEYB4EX0
I would recommend having an electrician wite in a whole house surge protector for good measure.
Does the shielded mean that the surge protector is built in? Or do I also have to buy something like this?
http://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Protector--Outdoor--Gigabit-1000Mbs/dp/B008060BU0/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465012384&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=surge+protector+ethernet+outside
EDIT: How does that even connect my router/pc if it's closed on one side??
Like this?
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0090YEVSE/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_mLYnDbXW04PHG
A lot of times it could be the outlet you’re using. I would plug a standard surge protector to get “cleaner” power to your amp :)
BAH! I write too slow lol, what totalBS said :)
Also, is the surge protector being hooked up to a TV as well? if not i use this which is awesome since I have a smartphone. USB charging cable hooks right into it.
The monitor with comes with a DVI cable if that's what the extra HDMI cable is for. Get a headset you goof, no one uses stand alone mics :P
This one
Really? I had no problem finding one that was 6+6 and here is one that is 2+10:
http://www.amazon.com/Cyberpower-CPS-1220RMS-Rackmount-Power-Surge/dp/B00077IS32/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458151824&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=rear+outlet+pdu
It's a Tacima 6-way Mains Conditioner.
If it's any help, here is the product page: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Tacima-Conditioner-Frequency-Interference-Filter/dp/B000PS5700/ref=sr_1_25?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1413845493&amp;sr=8-25&amp;keywords=surge+protector+audio
Or buy a watt-meter and check how much power the oven draws:
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B003WV5DBU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_arwszb5MJWZS7 or https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00L6P2L0A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_ppwszbD2K4CHX
Not that I'd want to put anybody off the joys of BBQing :)
I have plans to get a UPS, I'm currently using this
My issue is while using my computer I can hear a somewhat high-pitched buzzing. It varies depending on the brightness of what is being displayed on my monitor and whether I am scrolling or not. If I am doing something intensive like running a demanding video-game then the buzzing will get really obnoxious.
My stop-gap solution has been to run the A500 at about 25% on the volume knobs and then run higher gain through my USP-1 preamp. I have put in an APC Power Filter but it hasn't solved the problem. Maybe if I run just the computer or just the amp into it....
I wouldn't say you need a UPS; those are only really common when sensitive data is at risk. Something like this would be a good shot. As for the PSU, I wouldn't RMA it as I doubt the problem lies with the PSU itself (I'm actually running the same one in my rig). If you have another already on hand you can try swapping it out anyways though.
The biggest risk is (depending on the size of the surges) is that you damage components (basically your whole computer could be at risk).
Thank you so much! I'm in the UK, but I found this and this. Any idea if those would work/which one would work better, or do you have any suggestions for a UK compatible device?
Thanks for your input.
I put the surge protector in because of the problem I've been experiencing, so yes it does happen either way.
I hadn't heard of power conditioners, but I've had a look into them. Some appear to be like more expensive surge protectors, and others look to be like serious rack mountable bits of kit that are significantly more expensive.
Are the ones that look like surge protected extension leads any good - or are they just mislabeled surge protectors?
Have you tried plugging the Christmas lights with the in-line dimmer into a quality power conditioner?
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/APC-2-Outlet-Mount-Power-Filter/dp/B000OF4R8C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480387480&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=apc+c2
I have solved similar issues using power conditioners in the past.
Nope.
https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-SurgePlus-6-Outlet-Protector-BSV602tt/dp/B00ATZJ606/
Nope again.
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CPS1220RMS-Protector-Outlets-Rackmount/dp/B00077IS32/
You are simply not correct.
hmm. thanx.
i think i will buy a surge protector extension board only then. something like this https://www.amazon.in/Belkin-Essential-F9E600zb2MGRY-6-Socket-Protector/dp/B007T5S0G0/ref=sr_1_5?crid=14MH0F5U232H8&amp;keywords=belkin+surge+protector&amp;qid=1556552142&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=belkin+%2Caps%2C279&amp;sr=8-5
So I've been out of radio for a decade or so, but I'm thinking about heating things up again.
I have an Elecraft K2/100, and a fairly small lot to fit an antenna into. I'd like to do digital modes on 40m to start with.
I'm thinking of setting up an EFHW wire, like http://myantennas.com/wp/product/efhw-8010/, in an inverted V (6' at the ends, 30' up in the middle).
I'd also like to set up an upconverter, RTL-SDR, RPi3, and PC software to get a nice wide waterfall over HF bands - using the same antenna.
Questions:
https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Conserve-Insight-Monitor-F7C005Q/dp/B003WV5DBU
You can plug in your cost per Kwh and it'll even tell you how much you're spending per month/year
This is a good time to remind everyone that lives in a place that is even remotely susceptible to inconsistent power grid issues to purchase a surge protector that is backed by some monetary amount from a reliable company such as APC.
A unit like this one is fairly cheap and is backed by a $75000 guarantee to prevent things like this from happening.
I have a CFL set up for seedlings and early veg. I like having multiple 23w bulbs so I can add/subtract as needed and move them around around easier. I bought this: http://www.amazon.com/Socket-SS1650W-06-6-Outlet-Expandable-Protector/dp/B0017RXJSK and with splitters I can get up to 207w (9 bulbs) plugged in it.
Good point. US uses ~110v outlets where as most of the rest of the world uses ~230v outlets. Potentially you could have a multiplug adapter with built in surge protector like this
Luckily all my stuff is from the UK so I rarely have this surge problem.
So Belkin or Tripp Lite? Would this be enough? 720 joules, if that matters:
https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-6-Outlet-Office-Surge-Protector/dp/B000I5LACO/ref=sr_1_2?s=aht&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504228476&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=surge%2Bprotector&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_four_browse-bin%3A7070213011%7C7070214011%2Cp_89%3ABelkin%7CTripp%2BLite%2Cp_72%3A1248879011&amp;th=1
4 foot cord is long enough and $15,000 warranty is way more than enough.
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=33045
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=33467
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=24425
I considered all three of these for myself, but decided on the third one since I only had one “fast charging” device at the time. I did quite a bit of testing on it, so you can AMA. The things I was most interested in:
The “12W” square is just the maximum output per A port, not the total for all three. I connected two Type A devices at the same time as a Type C device, and both A devices drew over 8 watts.
It can run the Switch in TV mode with the official dock and an unofficial dock. So it’s nice for traveling with them.
If you were looking for a hub with wall outlets, this Anker one has a 30 watt Type C port
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DFFX34P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fmLUDbHKM340W
I recommend using a wall charger whenever possible, as discharging a battery pack even once a day is going to quickly wear the battery down on all but the best brands. But if you still want some recommendations, I’ve also done some research on those and own quite a few.
Energizer XP20001PD Type-C 45W Power Bank
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D17NXXT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YOHUDb3VCBHJA
RAVPower Portable Charger 20000mAh PD 3.0 Power Bank QC 3.0 18W Tri-input and Tri-output https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TF73QZS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ATHUDbJRD7JR7
The Energizer one I got for 42 dollars, and the RAVPower for 37. I love the Energizer one. It can output from all 5 ports at once, and although I only have two usb meters, I haven’t noticed any big slouches in output when I charge multiple devices at once.
The RAVPower is not quite so good. It can only output 18 watts when one device is plugged in. If you plug another device in, or try to do pass-through charging, it drops to normal 10 watt maximum. But it does have triple input and output, which is nice if you want to use multiple kinds of devices and chargers.
If you want something even more powerful than those, you could look at the Zendure Superport and Supertank. I haven’t tried anything by them, just letting you know they exist.
I don't believe it's any, only laptops and PCs. I've tried plugging it into my TV as well as this and they don't charge my controller.
https://www.amazon.in/Belkin-Essential-F9E600zb2MGRY-6-Socket-Protector/dp/B007T5S0G0/ref=sr_1_5?crid=14MH0F5U232H8&amp;keywords=belkin+surge+protector&amp;qid=1556552142&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=belkin+%2Caps%2C279&amp;sr=8-5
https://www.amazon.com/Tupavco-TP303-Ethernet-Protector-Outdoor/dp/B008060BU0/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=ethernet+lightning+protector&qid=1556162082&s=gateway&sr=8-5
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http://www.l-com.com/surge-protector-outdoor-10-100-1000-base-t-cat6-lightning-protector-punch-down
Here is a surge protector made by intermatic that you can wire into a 120/240vac furnace:
Intermatic AG3000 Surge Protector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VM6MXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uyqQCbBP08VTK
Here is one for your compressor unit:
Intermatic CD1-024R Compressor Defender Protects Central Air Conditioner / Heat Pump Compressors and Circuit Boards https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L2HW9YK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5AqQCbG3VEWHA
Its also a good idea to install a whole house surge protector, here is one example:
EATON CHSPT2ULTRA Ultimate Surge Protection 3rd Edition, 2.38" Length, 5.25" Width 7.5" Height https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AQAKRSS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wCqQCbTPJQEWQ
Ubiquiti ETH-SP-G2 Surge Suppressor/Protector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HXKRW1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PMpRCb21XEJR5
Used these and ran a 14ga wire to a grounding terminal.
https://www.amazon.in/Belkin-Essential-F9E600zb2MGRY-6-Socket-Protector/dp/B007T5S0G0/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=belkin+surge+protector&amp;qid=1554398522&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-4
I'd avoid the 8 socket - I've had 2 that had dead plug points after a year. The one I linked doesn't have that issue.
Check out this one I like it because it has the outdoor housing to protect the cable ends
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HXKRW1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_524XCbX6PSM1W
Okay I have a few things I think would be good to have. First of all target sells these amazing sheet sets. They're inexpensive and they last a long time. Whether you're dorming or not its good to have one of these. Do yourself a favor and get one of these and maybe one of these as well so you're not fighting over plugs. I see you play some instruments so its good to have some of these. Do yourself a favor and get one of these but this one may be better for you. This would be great for all your laundry and accessories. And last but not least this is an amazing desk to have for your computer and books (plus its free shipping :D).
If I win I'd love this and this
Would you like a falafel with that?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003WV5DBU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I paid $25. I'm sure there's a new version out by now.
I'm trying to figure out something in order to put the DirecTV and HDMI switcher in the ceiling. Right now the projector is connected using the original power cord which goes into an extension cord and then into a surge protector plugged into an electrical outlet inside the ceiling.
How should I plug in the DirecTV and switcher? I was going to use one of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00006BBAC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466883834&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=surge+protector&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31TtzP95IsL&amp;ref=plSrch
and I was going to plug it into the extension cord that the projector uses so that I could plug the remaining devices into it as well as the projector.
I'm running my i5-6600k OC'd @ 4.5 with a single 1080 Ti OC'd as well. I have 2 SSDs, 1 hue+, h100i, and the EVGA AIO on my video card. Also have about 8 fans in the system as well.
Using this while benchmarking https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003WV5DBU I saw my system spike to ~480w however while playing WoW it sits at ~230w.
Hello guys!
Longtime lurker here. I just moved into my first house in which I have a small nook in the garage, right next to the garage door. My current plans are to build a work bench as the humble beginnings of a basic woodworking area. I want to build the popular beginner workbench from this recent post (Plans Here). I would like to place it flush with the left wall of the nook.
As for the nook, it is 4' wide and 5'3'' deep. The cabinets came with the house and the bottom ones are not mounted to the wall, they are simply freestanding. I was thinking of just building shelves along the back wall to increase storage while preserving the narrow width?
Looking to you guys for ideas and inspiration before I fully commit and realize I didn't make the most of the space I had!
Pictures: nook 1 nook 2 nook 3
One last thing, I only have 2 outlets in my garage. One is on the opposite wall of the nook. The other one is on the ceiling with the garage door plugged in one outlet. I plan to just run an extension cable from the ceiling to the workbench and attach this 9 outlet power cord on the bench for all my needs
http://amzn.com/B000I5LACO
Still doesnt see the problem.
Keep in mind that these whole house suppressors tend to be less sensitive than the kind you put on individual appliances. Factor in the cost as well - the power strip type run you about $27 for a good one. http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-surge-protector/
Then, your main AC unit has a circuit board in it, and replacement costs you at least $300, often more like $600 or more (have had it fail in a couple different houses). I just have one on each AC : https://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-AG3000-Universal-Protective-Device/dp/B008VM6MXI
Now there's a bunch of lower value stuff in your house as well as stuff that might fry in a surge or might not. Ovens have circuit boards in them, every light bulb is probably an LED these days, smart switches in the walls, etc. What type of panel you have? Here's a basic device made by square D : http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-QO-Surgebreaker-Surge-Protective-Device-Takes-2-Load-Center-Spaces-QO2175SB/100202111
Just $50.
I would look at your homeowner's insurance first of all. The actual risk of a lightning strike bringing a major power surge into your house and frying everything is actually pretty low. Most devices, except for extremely sensitive things like computers with cheap power supplies, handle some surges fine. Honest, even computers and other devices these days tend to have their own cheap surge protection - such as "arc gap" devices on their circuit boards for their power supplies. A direct lightning strike can blast through even devices like that Intermatic.
So this is good case for insurance - a very low risk but very high damage if it happens. That intermatic you linked is $300, plus more cost for an electrician to install it - you would need to connect the leads for that at the main terminal lugs, which are hot, and so it would be difficult to DIY an install. What's the insurance policy say?
As for the ratings - those are how many amps that can flow if the device decides to clamp a surge. Basically, during a surge, something external is trying to raise the voltage on the line. When that happens, the surge arrester is trying to short the ground, neutral, and hot phases together to stop the voltage from rising. This causes heating in the MOVs and yeah, it burns them up.
This should rarely happen, so it hardly matters if the MOVs have a finite lifespan or not. More likely, something else would fail in the device before then. It also probably provides very little marginal difference whether you buy the 240 or the 280 - again, whole house surges that fry everything are rare.
I personally have been in a house that was hit by a closeby lightning strike. In reality, the damage was :
My desktop computer was just fine, since it was on a regular surge protector.
http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-BZ103050vTVL-outlet-Protector-Chargers/dp/B0017HF3XO
I've got one of these. I was once an airport hero because of it.
Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-media/product-gallery/B0012YJQWQ/ref=cm_ciu_pdp_images_0?ie=UTF8&amp;index=0
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