Best tube fittings according to redditors

I had to break this into another comment due to per comment character limits.

The following previously belonged to the above comment, but was moved here due to the above mentioned limts.

> Something you can do now: Build a filament drybox. Seriously, some filaments such as certain Nylons can go bad in just a few hours, depending on ambient humidity levels. All filaments are susceptible to moisture absorption, and ideally should be kept in something like a Spannerhands holder, even while printing, but at worst you should store them in a big plastic tub with silica gel beads to keep them dry.

> If I had to give one last tip, don't stock up on too much filament yet! Seriously! I thought I would be printing mostly in PLA but now that I've had a few weeks to work with it, I've learned I prefer PETG more, and now I have so much extra PLA! I'm sure I'll find something to do with it, but for my final tip I would add "And get a good variety!". Services like MakerBox (referral) let you try a bunch of different filaments on the cheap. It's not a ton of each filament (about 50g), but I love the variety of materials and colors.

Original second level comment begins:

Final Tips: Bonus Round!

1. Extruder Indicators are pretty cool (and USEFUL). You can get the magnets super cheap (or amazon).
   
2. Learn how to do An Atomic Pull (AKA Cold Pull), and learn it well. Do this every time you switch filaments (See "Doing it the lazy way" at the bottom of the page). You'll help remove built up deposits each time, which will help ensure a long, jam free life for you nozzle. This also skips the bleeding necessary when switching filaments (on your next "Load" you'll get a few mm of old filament and then pretty much pure new filament after that, instead of the 100mm or so of transition). You can skip doing a proper Cold Pull if you're using a brand new printer anyway. Just do a lazy pull each time you switch filaments, and then a proper Cold Pull maybe every 100 print hours, or after using extremely difficult (wet or super exotic) filaments to help remove any residue that may cause future jams or other issues. This does require undoing and redoing the idler tension again, but once you've done it a few times you can do the whole pull and filament swap in under a minute (minus hotend heatup/cooldown time). White Nylon is great for proper Cold Pulls, partially because you can crank the temp up very high (which ensures any residual filament in the hot end should also melt), White PLA would be okay for example, but may not properly pull PETG or ABS from the nozzle. White is great thanks to the color, of course, which allows you to see any residue easier; However, any color may be used. If you only ever use PLA, then PLA would be just fine for a Cold Pull. Seriously though, start by doing Cold Pulls from Day 1 and you'll easily cut out 50% of your future issues.
   
3. The small metric fasteners used in the printer are cheap. They are used in a lot of designs found online, so you should stock up (alternate source). The primary fasteners used are M3 Socket Head Cap 0.5 pitch, mostly full thread. You can also get the nuts very cheap. Square, Nyloc, and Hex. I can get the exact lengths used in the Mk3 if anyone needs them, though I'm not sure the exact grade used, it only really effects corrosion resistance.
   
4. You can also Calibrate the Extruder steps/mm and extrusion multiplier. Many people will tell you only the later is necessary but I prefer to do both anyway. Theoretically it does make a difference, but practically you can just compensate for steps/mm with the extrusion multiplier, and for all intents and purposes the result is the same, so "many people" are totally right.
   
5. You can also Calibrate the PID. You probably won't have to do this for PLA out of the box, but may find you have some temperature swings with PETG or ABS temperatures. The Official Help Article also discusses this method and how to calibrate using the LCD if you prefer. I like to keep my Mk3 settings vanilla (I've never used an M500 directly, and avoid them when I can), so I like to get my PID values manually and set them in my start GCode instead, which also allows me to setup my slicer so each switching filaments automatically switches PID profiles. The bed can be calibrated as well, but again you probably won't need to do this unless you're experiencing temperature swings more than -/+ 5°. One or two degree dips/spikes is perfectly normal (though theoretically can be tuned out, requires proper enclosure for stable ambient temps, etc).
   
   There are tons of other accessories you can get ahead of time. None of these are necessary, but are small things you might end up using (or wanting to try :P), and should help get you started getting a wishlist together. Besides the ones mentioned in this comment (and the one that precedes it) already:
   
   

• Wire Snips beat the included pliers hands down. For $4 how are you not going to pick these up right now? The cutting edge on a pair of pliers sucks and it doesn't help that it's ****ing halfway down the length of the tool. I tried to get away with just using the included tools and simply gave up trying to use the included pliers to cut zip ties. If you have Prime, get a pair of these now. Get a pair even if you don't - they're worth the shipping cost too. Thank me later.
  
• 608 bearings (for prints such as TUSH),
  
• Loctite 222 (helps prevent screws from vibrating free, not necessary thanks to Nylocs used in Mk3),
  
• A humidity sensor (for filament dry box and checking ambient),
  
• An accurate scale (for calculating remaining filament),
  
• A small fan (enhanced print cooling when needed (not very necessary except for ultra extreme bridges), enhanced circulation in filament dry box),
  
• Small bags (for silica beads),
  
• PTFE tube and matching Bowden Couplers (for something like Spannerhands),
  
• Lubit-8 (for the LMU88 bearings),
  
• SuperLube (Silicone Grease w/ PTFE for Bondtech Extruder gear maintenance),
  
• Canola Oil (for lubricating/cleaning filament and seasoning the nozzle/hotend (not necessary with modern hotends)),
  
• Small Brass Brush (also for Bondtech Extruder gear maintenance),
  
• Nozzle Reams (for the extremely rare jam, because you're doing your Atomic Pulls, right?),
  
• Extra Nozzles (no need for the kit, just an example. Hardened nozzles (black) are a good idea for composites, last longer than Brass, regardless of filament used. Prusa Mk3 comes with 0.4mm nozzle preinstalled, but you can easily swap the nozzle),
  
• E3D Hotend Sock (helps lock in heat for (theoretically?) lower current usage and more stable temperatures, also helps keep plastic off the heat block in case of print failure),
  
• Magigoo (or other adhesion aids) (for certain exotic filaments, otherwise not necessary with Mk3),
  
• Tempered Glass or Borosilicate printbeds (for certain exotic filaments),
  
• And of course, Isopropyl Alcohol (70% or better, preferably 91% or better) and Acetone, just to name a few...
  
  Edit: Upon rereading my comment I realized I have a problem.. I own every product I just listed..
  
  ^^Except ^^for ^^the ^^nozzles ^^kit ^^so ^^it's ^^not ^^that ^^big ^^of ^^a ^^problem, ^^right?... ^^Right?!

Interesting, thank you! I didn't know they sold those.

So could i Just use one of these to connect the tubing from the regulator to the splitter? https://www.amazon.com/Tailonz-Pneumatic-Straight-Connect-Fittings/dp/B07PBPB367

​

Now that I'm looking at it I'm not sure why you need a splitter in the first place when you could just use one of those Y adapters? https://www.amazon.com/Tailonz-Pneumatic-Fittings-Spliters-Straight/dp/B07RSLDDBR

Bosch has built some shit fuel systems in recent years. My nephew had problems with the fuel system on the New Holland tractor he bought new. Bosch supplied to CNH push together fittings that are not designed for suction

Like these

CNH/Bosch fixed it twice under warranty when the injection pump shit the bed. What happens is the sucked air and cavitate. Sound familiar?

After it was repaired the second time it was close to the end of warranty. We knew what was causing the problem even though CNH/Bosch wouldn't admit it. We had a local injection shop that was familiar with the problem replace all the plumbing right after it was fixed. The also added a lift pump. So far, the problem hasn't reared its ugly head again.

Quick search seems to confirm 3/4" x 16tpi. This is the adaptor you need:

https://www.amazon.com/NOVA-I9NS-4-Inch-Thread-Adaptor/dp/B0064JJ88Q

I actually didn't tally up the cost as that wasn't really of a concern to me, but I'll try my best to provide links to the things I bought for this. Feel free to add it up for me!

• Lighting
  
  • T-5 Grow light (came with 6500K bulbs)
    
  • 2700K bulbs
    
  • Grow light hangers
    
• Grow medium
  
  • Net Cups
    
  • Black Buckets
    
  • Black lids
    
• Nutrients
  
  • General Hydroponics Flora Series
    
  • General Hydroponics pH control kit
    
  • pH/EC/Temp Meters
    
• Grow tent
  
• Air ventilation
  
  • The only thing I ended up using from this kit was the cheapest part, the ventilation duct...
    
  • The fan from this kit is way too powerful for my setup because my humidifier couldn't keep up
    
  • I didn't use the carbon filter because I'm not growing weed.
    
• Water Distiller
  
• Humidifier
  
  • The cheaper the humidifier, the better. I first bought (and destroyed) one that had some sort of digital switch, so it would always be in the off state when you first supply power to it, meaning you can't turn it on/off with just a relay.
    
• Plumbing
  
  • Aquatec 8852 booster pump
    
  • 2 Gallon accumulator tank
    
  • Pressure relief valve
    
  • Tubing
    
  • Inline Pre-filter (Sorry they must have taken the product down...)
    
  • Misting nozzle T's
    
  • Tube ball valves
    
  • Analog pressure gauge
    
  • Misting Nozzles
    
    • Note that these nozzles are meant for WAY higher pressure systems (~1000psi) and I actually had to take out the spring for them to operate correctly, but they never clogged up, are easy to clean, and worked perfectly for me!
      
• Electronics
  
  • Raspberry Pi 3 kit
    
  • Humidity sensor
    
  • Pressure sensor
    
  • Water solenoid valve
    
  • 5V 4-channel relay module
    
  • Analog-to-digital converter
    
  • 24V to 12V converter
    
  • 24V Power supply
    
  • Resistor kit
    
  • Semiconductor kit
    
  • Circuit boards
    
  • Standoffs
    
• Wiring
  
  • 22 gauge stranded wire
    
  • 22 gauge solid wire
    
  • Power supply cord
    
• Connectors
  
  • Electronic Connectors
    
    • JST-XHP Connectors
      
    • JST-SM Connectors
      
    • Dupont Connectors
      
  • Plumbing Connectors
    
    • Bulkhead connectors
      
    • Quick-connect kit
      
    • NPT to quick-connect connector
      
      I also bought various tools, like crimpers, Dremel kit, drill, etc, but I don't consider those to be project-specific as I'll have them for the foreseeable future. Let me know if there's anything you see that you think I missed!
      

Been doing DIY CO2 for 2 years now.

Check valves everywhere. Several of them. They fail, and your tank will leak out through the hose that pops off. Silicone everything, and check for leaks every once in a while.

Don't just glue the air lines through a hole in the lid either, even with silicone it will start leaking after a while. Get bulkhead fittings from a hobby shop that does gas powered RC cars, and put a rubber gasket on each side of the cap.

I strugged with epoxy, silicone, and hot glue seals for most of those 2 years. Epoxy and hot glue yellow and decay from the carbonic acid, and silicone just never would stick to the bottle caps for me. I went to high pressure brass fittings on mine, but that's probably excessive.

What you want is a Bulkhead Fitting. It makes a hole on a flat surface and allows you to attach PVC parts to it. I would say you add this right under the lip of the top pond and put ~1' length of PVC pipe on it. The water will fill to the pipe then drain out into the pond below. The only real consideration is the strength of the plastic and the length of the pipe. You wouldn't want to crack the pond.

Monoprice uses really cheap non-standard parts, sorry yours broke. Mine did the same thing a couple weeks ago.

What you really should do is buy this metal extruder assembly for $7, as the 3D printed ones I tried just didn't work well, and I tried several.

You'll also need these new connectors, they're cheap and you can also replace the crappy one on the other end of the Bowden tube while you're at it.

After removing the grub screw on the old extruder gear, use some heat, like a heat gun or a hair dryer, to help you pull off the old extruder feeding gear. Trust me, it's worth it. This new one is million times better. No skipping, no jams, no underextrusion. I suffered with that problem for ever! It all came down to cheap parts.

You should re-callibrate your e-steps, as it's honestly super easy. I think 100 was the number I used. The default is 92, so if you don't want to it won't be that far off.

Edit: /u/Karzdan, this will 100% fix your issue. My print quality really improved, this small upgrade made a huge, huge difference for me. This new spring is much stronger, and the new teeth really grip the filament.

What I think you're looking for is a bulkhead fitting like this, usually installed so the threaded part is facing the inside but you could mount it the other way and get a cap that screws onto it.

You could also use something like this a cable gland but grab a closed end sealing nut to make it into a cap.

you can build the exact same thing diy for about $70. and im sure you can source cheaper parts. you get 2 brass hose barbs with the pump below as well.

• 2gpm Solar pump - $30
  
• Ball lock disconnects - $12
  
• SS T FPT fitting - $5
  
• 1/2" NPT diffustion stone - $15
  
• 1/" npt hose barbs $7
  
• vinyl tubing and clamps $4
  
  That said, being able to keg and serve in the same day with perfect carbonation is pretty awesome.

So these are the couplings that I used.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N6JF205?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I pulled off that top piece that the hourglass coupler is zip tied to. There is juuuust enough of the threads to use a flat washer and m5 nut.

This is the PTFE tubing that I used:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01D1G7LRO?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I didn’t do the following, but considered it:
You could cut the tubing long enough to run all the way into the hot end - that would mean having 3 or so inches passing through the coupler and down to the cold end.

This would solve one of my minor problems: loading filament will often bend to the side of the “funnel” at the top of the cold end above the PCB. I have to coax it a bit as is. Not a big deal, but it does take a bit of the automatic load function away.

The only piece I had to fabricate is the little black cube in the top. I made that from a piece of 1/2" acrylic. I drilled a 90 degree hole into the top and side of it. Then used epoxy to attach it to the fan with the wires going through it. I had to snip the wire adapter off to do this. The holes I drilled into the cube were the exact same diameter of the male piece of the quick connect barb. This kept it snug but also allowed it to rotate in the hole.

Next, I then fished the wires through the quick connect fittings and through the quick connect bulkhead. After the wiring was all the way though, i re-soldered the wire adapter and used heat shrink tubing to seal it all together.

Once everything was wired up I connected the fans to a 4 channel PC fan controller and fired it up. I do have to say I am very happy with the results.fan closeups

All parts were bought on amazon or ebay. Mistkings fittings while black are nice, they are very expensive compared to the white ones I found on amazon. The fans were bought on ebay and were very cheap. I estimate I built 4 of the fans for about $30.00 USD

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vktech-5Pcs-Black-Brushless-DC-Cooling-Blower-Fan-5015S-5V-0-1-0-3A-50x15mm-/183518100748?hash=item2aba87fd0c


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YGR2ILM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZ2PLCR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have/had the maker select. I fought it about ever other print I did on it until it finally became more expensive to troubleshoot than buy a new printer. Thats when I got the ender 3. I honestly think the ender 3 prints way better than the maker select ever did for me. Dont get me wrong the maker select was a good printer when it printed but I think the ender 3 outperforms it.

Yes the whole myth around resin being so expensive I think stems from a couple years ago when it was waaayyy more expensive and the only players in the game were selling $3000 printers. It has come way down and just realize every single time someone say that it is 10x more than FDM they are either misinformed, lying, or an idiot lol. I think the fact that you have to but it $60-$150 at a time instead of $17 (what a cheap roll of filament costs) really confuses some people. I have done the calculations though since I print for commissions and my resin volume per mini is usually between 4ml to 7ml. Resin can be bought all day for $0.08 per ml. I love it when people try to argue with me on it though :)

[Here are the connectors I bought](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQYJ9T6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) you probably could find a smaller pack but this is the size you need. The connecter on the hotend side is a different size, but I didnt have any problems with that one so I only replaced the one on the extruder.

I believe you need a PC4-M6 PTFE tube connector.

No problem. I just checked mine, and the threading is 3/4 inch 16 thread. Because this is a bit of a strange size I had to get an adapter to make my nova chuck fit. You might have to do the same when you get a chuck. Mine has a mt1 tail stock, so my drill chuck is mt1.

I looked it up, and it appears that your lathe has the same specs as mine,but I make no promises.

By the way, good luck with your turning.

As u/agoomba said you can just cut off and splice but if you don’t want to as u/viruswithshoes said it is a Phoenix connector https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GWF65WY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524396465&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=phoenix+connector+2+pin&dpPl=1&dpID=41o6TeK93bL&ref=plSrch

Do you mean 1/4 barrel? I'm making a Boka out of a 1/2 barrel keg (15.5 gal). Here's what I've bought:

5' of 2" copper DVW pipe - Local hardware store
25' of 1/4" copper refrigeration coil - Local hardware store
Stainless steel pot-scrubbers - Walmart

Clamp ferrule:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00835O0J6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1500W heating element: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006IX89Q/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fitting for heating element:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003GSL0S4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Triclamp:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ED2EZCK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Triclamp gasket: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013S1M75I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thermometer:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0198473E4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A24QHZSKPYNZBC

Flux:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000V88WJW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lead-free solder: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JM8D6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I am going to start by forgoing the Liebig condenser as I don't think its terribly necessary and it can always be added easily just after the compression-fitted valve. The hardest part was finding 5' of copper pipe, everyplace wanted to sell me 10' and the prices were all over the place.

Hope this helps!

I'm pretty slammed schedule wise right now. I'll get some pictures if I can, but it may take a while before I can get to it.

It isn't complicated though. I welded one of these to one of these. The previously-linked element screws into that. I took an air-conditioner extension cord and cut the female end off. I wired the black and white wires to the two terminals on the element, then used a rubber fitting to cover the whole thing for safety. The green wire I left long and hanging out with a screw terminal on it.

On the keg itself, I cut a hole in the side of it with a hole saw to match the inner diameter of the ferrule (second link above) as close to the bottom as I could. My keg has a rubber bottom so I had to come up just a little. I welded the ferrule to the keg. I also welded a small stainless machine screw to it.

To use it, I attach the assembled heater unit to the keg using a PTFE gasket and tri-clamp. I take that ground wire and attach it to the stainless screw nut, that way there is always a good ground attached to the keg. Put your wash in, plug it in to a 110v outlet, and you're up and running.

If you want to try to weld it all yourself, do some reading up on TIG welding stainless steel. It's a different beast. This was my first real welding project, and I chose stainless of all things to start with! It isn't pretty, but it is water tight and serves it's purpose. I learned a TON and hopefully will improve a lot when I start another project.

Hey friend. you're on the right track with your idea to drill a hole and plumb it to a larger tank. Be careful when you choose the spot to drill. You don't want to drill in to a very round side, as that will be harder to make watertight. i would recommend trying to find a nice flat spot, just below the max fill of that unit's tank, and then drilling a hole for a bulkhead fitting(so that its watertight) and then just attach a hose to the drain end of the fitting and you can just set the other end of the hose in to a 5 gallon bucket below the unit or something.


a 1/2 bulkhead fitting is less than 5$ on amazon(also might not hurt to look around for a smaller sized one of these, as a 1 1/2" hole may be kind of big for this small tank) i only looked around for a second.
https://www.amazon.com/Lifegard-Aquatics-Standard-Threaded-Bulkhead/dp/B0002Z7U1K/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=bulkhead+drain+with+gasket&qid=1565284477&s=gateway&sr=8-15


If you go with this route, i would get a step bit (drill bit for drilling a precise hole by gradually widening it)
https://www.amazon.com/Knoweasy-Sizes-Titanium-Drill-Drilling/dp/B07NKXLTCB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=step+bit&qid=1565284634&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyMEU0WExMM0Y1NUNZJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDQzOTM5RjNOQkZRRFgzUVFXJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwODExNDgyUEtUR1lBS1NJNzM4JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==


then you would just need a female 1/2 thread to 1/4" barbed fitting and some 1/4 tubing to run to the bucket. I have similar setups to this for top-off tanks in my hydro systems. If you need any help figuring it out and sourcing parts, just shoot me a message!


Best of luck!!

I just bought these and they're threaded on both sides so that what you linked to (or these which I also bought) should fit. I put them on some 5gal buckets and the seal is working great. Pretty happy with the setup so far :)

Here are the ones I got they work great. Currently unavailable. Eowpower 10 Pcs PC4-01 Pneumatic Air Straight Quick Fitting 4mm thread 9.5mm One touch hose Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N1UWUA4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_X.NpzbMQ9Y0XN
If you can't find any I can drop one in the mail for you it'll probably only cost a couple bucks to send it.

I recommend getting a TDS meter as well, but if you don't want to here are are some tips. Get a y splitter with valve.

https://www.amazon.com/Neeshow-Quick-Connect-Water-Fitting/dp/B01LZZPK83/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref_=yo_ii_img

I bought that pack. Run a piece of RO tubing from the membrane to the y adapter, then from the y adapter run a piece of tubing to your drain or waste section. Then the other side of the y connecter, run another piece of tubing then an on/off valve followed by another piece of tubing to the DI filter.

This is important I'd you want 0 TDS, and don't wanna go through DI cartridges quickly. Run the RO unit for about 10minutes with the DI section OFF. this will filter out your TDS from 500+ to 10. Then run the DI by itself for about 30 seconds, then have it go into your receptacle. Feel free to ask me any questions.

I prefer the bleach method of cleaning and thoroughly soaking in Seachem Prime before putting the diffuser back into the tank. I let the diffuser soak in bleach for at-least 2 hours.

As for removing the diffuser, I uncouple the end that goes to the regulator instead as tha end has a screw type connection in addition to friction coupling. You can also try a straight pass through pneumatic coupling between the regulator and diffuser (check diameters before getting one). Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Utah-Pneumatic-Plastic-Fittings-Straight/dp/B01N20NL0Y/

or

https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Overview/Catalog/Pneumatic_Components/Quick-Disconnect_Air_Couplings


But I am not sure how using it with CO2 will effect the plastics as in the long term CO2 eats through some kinds of plastics.

You can pay the homebrew premium or find your own parts.

I am able to use this spray ball with a Superior sump pump (1/4 hp should be enough): Dernord Rotary Spray Ball NPT Female CIP Tank Cleaning Ball 360° Spray Pattern, Stainless Steel 304 (1/2" NPT Threaded) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073GHFP6J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_iCViAMafHe3f1

The pump you linked might work. I’m just not sure whether you get the required power. Most online builds tend to use sump pumps in DIY keg washers for a reason.

As far as washing the kettle, it’s as simple as dumping the first bucket of hot chiller effluent into the kettle and scrubbing it for a few seconds with a long handle brush. Add some PBW and heat it up if you don’t want to move a brush around.

Long and then short reply lol, I’ll get back at you further when I’m less busy, but here is what I’m talking about for that screen. I def had better luck when I switched from trim/popcorn nugs to “premo” nugs too so hopefully that helps your situation.

ARTESIAN SYSTEMS 20 Micron... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QM2VVYV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Also, if you don’t have one this may help with heating your vac chamber long term, I love mine:

BACOENG Digital Heating Pad Series (7.5", Fixed) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MCGSF3J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_t0XyDbXQ08F51

Only thing I could find was these, not sure how well they'd work, but may be worth a try.

https://www.amazon.com/Eowpower-Pneumatic-Straight-Fitting-Connector/dp/B01MQYJ9T6/

I think you're looking for bulkheads (like this https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0002DKANM). Usually they are set up for either glued or threaded PVC pipe. If you go with threaded bulkheads, you can get barbed adapters (https://www.homedepot.ca/product/1000117559) so you can use flexible tubing with them. Make sure to use teflon thread tape on all threaded joints or they will leak.


Keep in mind that bulkheads only work on flat surfaces, not curved. If you want to pass pipe through a curved surface, you can use a uniseal.

Here's where I got my connectors: Amazon You can probably find them cheaper since these also came with the terminals.

Here's the drivers compared with the originals.
http://i.imgur.com/bGsuepL.jpg

just FYI - mine got to about 15 days printing and the power plug on the melzi board blew out. It didn't just melt the plug, it melted the board as well and popped the pin out in a manner that a new pin couldn't be soldered back in. 1 month downtime waiting for a new board from China sucked (warranty repair). Lesson learned - if you smell any new burning plastic smell shut it down immediately. Even if your 3/4 into a 15hr print like mine was :). Buy yourself a bag of these. Replace it in about 15 minutes like I had to when the 2nd one went out about 48 hrs printing time later.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GWF65WY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

Get a temp probe for your kettle. This one is pretty cheap, and another $10 for the bulkhead adapter.

It looks like you're trying to bubba a weldless bulkhead.


http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Homebrewing-and-Winemaking-Supplies/dp/B0064OFGLO

It also looks like you're trying to use a hex nut as the connector that structurally supports two threaded pipe sections. This would work, provided you brazed the pipe sections to the hex nut, but Gluing them together probably won't work. You could epoxy them together, but I wouldn't expose epoxy to hot solvent vapors that are intended for consumption.

If I were you, I'd take the male side (which also has a female port on the opposite side, which you can see in the picture of the link, below) of a lead-free brass pipe union
http://www.amazon.com/Brass-Fitting-Union-Class-Female/dp/B004XEKWSY/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1463615762&sr=1-2&keywords=pipe+union+copper
and stick it in the hole you drilled for the "threaded nipple bolts" in your drawing. Braze it to the lid with silver solder using a TON of flux and a map gas torch, and then get a NPT threaded sanitary flange to connect to your vapor pathway. make sure you ptfe tape the NPT connection

Something like this should work.

Then why aren't you just using a bulkhead fitting? Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Lifegard-Aquatics-Standard-Threaded-Bulkhead/dp/B0002Z7U1K/ref=lp_700755011_1_6?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1565222743&sr=1-6

with a threaded plug should be reasonably waterproof.