(Part 2) Best voltage testers according to redditors
We found 396 Reddit comments discussing the best voltage testers. We ranked the 118 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
Also, get yourself a plug-in GFCI adapter for all of your gear. If OP was using a GFCI, it would have tripped as soon as he touched the microphone and disconnected the faulty equipment. A non-contact voltage tester can also prevent accidents - touch it to your microphone or amp and it'll light up if there's a voltage present.
If you're gigging, get your gear serviced annually by a competent person. This is especially important for tube amplifiers, which are particularly prone to dangerous faults. Carefully inspect all of your power cables before every gig and dispose of any cable that is frayed, split or has damaged connectors.
Dacă ai fast charge pe device-uri (adică un telefon modern, puternic sau o tabletă se încarcă în 1-2h), și nu ai cabluri normate la 2-2.5 amperi, ceva se va topi/mișca prin el. Idem dacă sunt niște chinezării care pot duce 5v, dar nu 9v. Trebuie să ții cont de cum le încarci. De exemplu, pe laptop/PC poți scoate cam 0.5A max, de pe încărcătoarele vechi 0.8-1A, și de pe încărcătoarele pentru telefoane moderne, cam 2-2.5A. Dacă schimbi modul de încărcare, de ex de pe charger pe laptop, e normal să se încarce mai lent
Ce pot păți cablurile (și nu prea le poți repara, pentru că sunt turnate):
Cum le poți repara?
Nu prea poți.
Cum le poți testa?
Nu foarte ieftin. Fie cu o su]rsă de laborator, și cu câteva rezistențe (sau niște rezistențe decadice), fie cu niște jucării d-astea: sarcină și tester. Nu prea le poți testa înainte sa le cumperi
Cum alegi cabluri și cum te comporți cu ele?
În experiența mea, Anker și cele OEM.
2.5 Singurul caz in care poți avea cabluri și lungi și care încarcă rapidă e atunci când cablul e gros. Foarte gros. De exemplu cu tool-ul ăsta, pe 5V/2A și pierderi de 5% ai secțiune de cupru în cablu de 1.5mm^2 și pentru pierderi de 1%, ai secțiune de 5mm^2. Distanța între pinii din mufa USB micro e de 0.5-0.6mm. Ai nevoie de 4 fire d-astea într-un cablu
5.2 Excepția e lipirea prin ultrasonare când ai tot două piese, dar lipitura nu e prin adeziv, ci forțezi piesele să vibreze la frecvențe suficient de mari încât se topesc în punctul de contact și masele plastice se amestecă. Arată mult mai bine decât o mufă din două piese lipită cu adeziv, și lipitura nu se vede, ci pare că e dintr-o singură bucată.
That’s why I always use a non contact voltage tester for AC currents. Super quick and super easy to use. Pretty cheap too.
I always test it by rubbing it in my hair, that creates enough static electricity to trigger it. To be extra safe test it on a known live circuit.
This is what I’ve had for years. Cheaper are available. Klein is great.
This. Just make sure you cut the power and buy and use a current sniffer so you don’t kill yourself.
https://www.amazon.com/Southwire-Tools-Equipment-M550-Continuity/dp/B01ADWQ94A/ref=pd_sim_328_51?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01ADWQ94A&pd_rd_r=8HRG344D53VT73BBKECJ&pd_rd_w=y68zI&pd_rd_wg=6ds0w&psc=1&refRID=8HRG344D53VT73BBKECJ
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F6K5SY2/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B00F6K5SY2&pd_rd_wg=1y9Dp&pd_rd_r=WYXRJBKSC3S8VV3277AY&pd_rd_w=RNZu2
This should do the trick, there is better but not with that budget
I have a USB power meter and dummy load and test all of my equipment with it. I see how long it runs on a full charge and can calculate the approximate efficiency since I know the battery capacity. I tested the F2 last winter and consistently got 74% at 1.5a and 75% at 1a with 18650 and 21700 batteries.
A regular old anker 6700 is around 80% and the one I use currently is a novoo 10k that's 85%. Some banks with pouch cells are even underrated after efficiency (measure at over 100%) but they tend to be so heavy they still aren't worth it
Edit: taking weight into account the F2 is still a solid option especially once you get past 2 cells. but the best powerbanks are better per gram and come with quick charge if you're willing to get rid of flexibility
Found this, looks like it'll have all the info you need. http://m.imgur.com/a/yC4T7
Edit: This would actually be kinda cool to wire in w/ a momentary switch. You'd be able to keep an eye on your battery voltage. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C2NTJHS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1397365746&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40
Thanks for the tips... that or a usb hardware power meter. Those little thing is only 10 bux and it's so useful like a screwdriver you eventually need one in your life if you are doing any stuff with usb.
Like this
https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Digital-Multimeter-Chargers-Capacity/dp/B071214RD8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=usb+power+meter&qid=1557601788&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1
I got one and it's been useful and with every cents of it.
as your electronics haven't fried I would say it's ghost voltage an ELI5 is: voltage is present but not current so there's nothing to worry about
I have the same suicide stick it doesn't take a beating very well and can be overly sensitive. the first thing I would do is change the batteries. if the results are the same I would pick up a solenoid tester to eliminate ghost voltage which is the most likely cause
Also, pickup an auto-ranging digital multimeter no home should be without one
Brand is Riorand, this looks like the unit, I think a lot of people around here use it for their labs.
It's never gotten close AFAIK, though to be frank it has been awhile since I bothered to check it. The major power draws are the gaming PC and Dell server, and neither of those are pulling enough to cause any issues.
Regarding memory compression - there really isn't a reason to turn it off. As I said, your system still has to spend CPU cycles to compress data before paging it to disk anyways, so that is going to happen regardless. The only difference with W10 memcompression is that it'll stay in RAM unless you really, really need more memory - meaning your system will be slightly more responsive and your disk drive will get used less.
I have 16GB of RAM as well. Windows likes to to keep about 50-80% of your memory free so there are no delays launching new memory-hungry processes. If I pop into the Resource Monitor I can see I have about 49% memory in use, and ~1GB of memory in the compressed state. It obviously doesn't need to be compressed, but if it weren't then Windows would have already paged it to disk. That's just how the memory management system works - it always checks to see if programs haven't touched parts of the in-memory data in a while, and makes it available to other processes if so.
If you don't like this behavior then the only real way to change it is to just get rid of your page-file all together, as well as the memory compression function. You can/will however run into warning and errors stating that you've run of out memory when your system is in that state - since it is actually possible for it to happen as compared to when you have memcompression and a page file available as sources of virtual memory.
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For the dock - I honestly don't know enough about low-level charging systems and capacities to be able to guess as what sort of volts/amps are being passed around, and if they are even different. The only way to get a real measurement would be to use a physical device like this.
You could however follow this guide to get a full battery report while charging via 1 source, and then compare the report to that generated when charging using the other source.
As long as your hardware can provide the "Capacity remaining mWh" as shown in that guide, then you should be able to see how quickly one charges the laptop as compared to the other in a fairly detailed way.
Looks like that something it was covering is your doorbell transformer (behind that romex wire in the 2nd pic).
EDIT: Not a long term fix to be clear; I'm only saying this because you have a sparky coming over. The correct thing to do is put in a junction box, strip and nut the wiring inside the box, and not drive other nails into other wires for solidarity.
EDIT 2: FYI - the doorbell transformer isn't buried in the wall because those things eventually kick the bucket and you'd be super pissed trying to find it. They're commonly put in unfinished/roughed-in rooms like a garage, hallway, basement, etc. Your previous homeowner obviously didn't like the look (hence the little box that covered it) but was smart enough to leave it accessible.
EDIT 3: Congrats on your home! 🎉
Here's what I have found handy around the house:
I think the odds of me crimping RJ11/RJ12 are pretty slim, so I don't worry about that ability.
Your measurements were accurate but misinterpreted. You got good repeatable numbers confirming the official capacity.
Just get a meter that can do watt-hours like this or this.
Yes. 3-30vdc $2.33 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P7QC8PW/
Or just buy one of these for $10-$20 https://www.amazon.com/Southwire-Voltage-Tester-Contact-Hx0-83/dp/B00JCCYWW4
I'm really surprised your friend has done years of DIY housework and never had to test if a wire was live when demo'ing/remodeling.
My boss has theSouthwire 58292040 with the built-in LED light on the backside, it works well the times I've used it. Way less problems than the Klein.
my parts order from digikey:
http://i.imgur.com/yAU0ox8.png
(yes, I used the T/6... 30 watts is enough power for me)
plus I bought a 1k ohm resistor from Radio Shack because I forgot to add it...
510 battery connector comes from madvapes
edit: and LED Voltmeter
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BZQ2LJG/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can put an ammeter on each of the breaker wires to see how many amps are flowing through each circuit. However, that's only information on how much is flowing at this moment; it's not summing up the total energy used.
An electrician could add sub-meters such as www.amazon.com/DDS238-4-Single-Phase-DIN-rail-Kilowatt/dp/B00A4VF7U8/ , which would allow you to see how much each circuit is using in total over time.
Are there leases involved? It's not in that guy's best interest to agree to change the way that electricity is billed.
I have a Plugable USB-C power meter and a MakerHawk USB Multimeter Tester.
The Plugable I got doesn't match the pictures, but works just the same. It does stick to a USB-C port and in pulling it out its housing sometimes comes loose. It snaps back in place so I'm use to it. It is bare bones but good for a quick voltage/current reading.
The MakerHawk is my new standard power meter for my reviews. It displays more info, has customizable alerts (beep if over 20.1V or 3.1A), and does USB-C and USB-A. I got the Bluetooth model and use it with Windows software listed on the Amazon page. I ended up getting a micro-USB extension cable so I could plug in the included Bluetooth chip with bulkier chargers. The Windows software reads the meter fine and has a nice graph for over time testing. My mix of Bluetooth components (USB dongle on the PC) means the PC can't talk back to the meter. If it did I could reset the meter's numbers and make changes via the PC. From reviews the lack of "write" from the PC is common, so don't count on it. You can see screenshots of the software in one of my newer reviews.
Wow thanks for the detailed reply.
So the den seems pretty simple and is something I think I can do myself with something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N3R74QQ/?coliid=I1Y0JMYFMH0N79&colid=VMZPIDTKAT7V&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
I live in an apartment and don't think I should be getting too complex here. However is there a way an electrician could redo the wiring and add a neutral wire easily and cheaply? Or is that a big job for someone to do ?
Also is it strange for the wiring to be totally different within the same apartment like my bedroom and den or is that pretty normal ?
It might and it might not. I'm a little paranoid by nature so theres a few precautions you could take if were interested:
I couldve used a powered hub instead but I dont have any outlets left 😬
There's something called a wiggle that's a better choice than the back of your hand.
If you even suspect you might be around a live wire, spend 12 bucks and keep this in your pocket.
As detailed elsewhere if the box is grounded you can use a 3-prong outlet grounded to the box. To test if the box is grounded, don’t use just any meter, use an electricians low impedance volt meter. Meters without low impedance may give false results for this test.
As detailed in another comment the breaker could also be changed to GFCI. Or the FIRST outlet in a circuit could be changed to GFCI where the rest of the outlets on the circuit are wired to the load terminals of this first outlet. With both of these options 3-prong outlets are allowed without the ground connected. There are caveats: 1) to be code compliment unground 3-prong outlets MUST be protected by GFCI AND labeled “No Equipment Ground” (these labels come in the box with GFCI’s) and 2) the down stream outlets wired without the ground wire connected will fail to trip using a plug in outlet tester with a GFCI test button (this is because they simulate a ground fault by bleeding a trace current to the non-existent ground). To properly test this type of circuit trip the GFCI with its own test button and verify downstream ungrounded outlet have no voltage.
The third and final option is code now allows you to run a separate green ground wire, but it must be connected to the ground bar of a sub-panel or the bonded combined neutral/ground bar in the main service panel. It can’t just connect to something like a water pipe.
By capacity, I mean watt-hours or amp-hours. It's true for both measurements.
For your purposes, load is watts. In a powerbank, the voltage of the USB output stays the same while the voltage of the battery decreases as it drains. If you're charging a phone that wants 1.0A @ 5V = 5W, you're going to need 5.0W/4.2V = 1.19A (plus a little for the inefficiency of the circuit) from the battery when it's full, but 5.0W/3.0V = 1.67A when it's nearly empty.
People testing batteries (not powerbanks) use a load with constant amps, so lower watts when the battery is low than when it's full.
> so a power source (like a powerbank) can adjust it's volt output by itself apparently? if so the power source cant output volt beyond what is the default volt of the power source, is that accurate?
A USB powerbank uses a type of switched-mode power supply called a boost converter. It produces output with a constant voltage, while the voltage of the battery powering it decreases as it drains. In the case of basic USB, it's always 5.0V. Fast-charging standards like Qualcomm QuickCharge and USB Power Delivery use higher voltages, so there are powerbanks that have a more sophisticated boost converter that can select the voltage after communicating with the device being charged, but the principle is the same.
> there doesnt seem to be any main commonplace sites that does these testing prob cos it's so specialisd
USB power meters are cheap and sold on Amazon. Anyone doing a review of a powerbank or a comparison between different models should at least do a test of the actual output capacity.
If you're shopping for a powerbank, the main technical detail you're going to want to know is output capacity with a load similar to yours (powering a phone is different from powering a laptop, or four phones, etc...). A test is required to know this.
This is the one I bought https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DCTHWPR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_j6sQBbYRAN88J
It's build quality is not the best (connector is a bit wobble) but it's been accurate so far.
This look good? https://www.amazon.com/Non-Contact-Adjustable-Sensitivity-Flashlight-12V-1000V/dp/B07N3R74QQ/ref=sr_1_7?crid=3E2UODV4HLXQO&keywords=voltage+detector&qid=1566831392&s=gateway&sprefix=voltage+de%2Caps%2C139&sr=8-7
I love my [Fluke LVD2 non contact voltage tester.] (https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-LVD2-CT-Counter-Display/dp/B00937VL68/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523584957&sr=8-1&keywords=fluke+lvd2&dpID=312DgWuWWmL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch)
get a cheap wattage tester and see if you have any vampire devices that are pulling extra power due to a short, said device would also be very warm.
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https://www.amazon.ca/RioRand-Digital-Electricity-Monitor-Voltage/dp/B00K7VMJYM?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2
I use this one. However, they're sometimes unreliable. When in doubt, use a multimeter.
This is the almost the exact type of scenario I'll be entering.
If I interrupt the power going into my workshop with something like this https://www.amazon.com/Baomain-DIN-rail-Kilowatt-20-100/dp/B00A4VF7U8/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=240+volt+killawatt+meter&qid=1563312337&s=gateway&sr=8-5
And log the KWh every month, I should be able to deduct that number.
What method does your client use?
Here's one:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BZQ2LJG/
Here's /u/david4500's MOSFET schematic: https://i.imgur.com/x7AUu5A.jpg
The voltmeters are pretty simple, you can test them by putting a wire on each end of a battery. Extending that concept you just work it into the voltage line so that positive is on the positive side, and negative on the negative. There are also 3-wire voltmeters on amazon. If you get one of those, just tie the red and white wires together.
My question is, why would you want to dim the light? I mean, sure in theory you can do it through the boost converter by dialing down the voltage but you're looking for a reasonably tight range of voltage all things considered so if you're kind of willy nilly guessing based on what looks 'bright' you might miss out. That being said, if you wanted to get clever I see no reason you couldn't just add a voltage meter inline with your output. I have no experience with that module though so your experience may vary.
As far as that heatsink goes, for some reason I can't find the relevant dimensions on the datasheet that would be useful. At effectively 1.5-1.75 inches thick, you'd probably be OK but the amount of heat output though will vary depending on what voltage you run COB at. Additionally, and I wouldn't quote me definitively on this, really all you're doing with the added fan is improving the longevity of the COB as far as I know. So if it happens to run a little hot (note I'm not saying if its melting plastic or an obvious fire risk), you'd probably be ok.
Do you have a non-contact AC voltage tester? It's usually able to detect "hot" wiring or metal. Something like this (available from your local hardware store for around $20):
http://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-GT-12A-Non-Contact-Voltage-Detector/dp/B00FAME70M
There may, in fact, be a wiring fault but are you sure that your breaker actually turned off? Sometimes older breakers will fail closed rather than open, or only partially turn off. Usually it's the other way around (in that you can't turn them back on), but muck and corrosion will lead to strange things.
Secondly, what sort of shock was it? If it's in the middle of a room with lots of shag carpeting for instance, you can build up quite a bit of a charge will will ground out the moment you touch the grounded light fixture (assuming it's wired correctly).
the Ethernet chip in the dongle is what would consume power. if you're curious as to how much power a dongle consumes you can purchase this https://www.amazon.com/Safety-Monitor-Cellphone-Charger-Protect/dp/B01J7236K2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1498677055&sr=8-4&keywords=usb+power+monitors
just be aware the components which is measuring power will also consume a bit of power
Here is the desktop version of your link
I always double check if the breaker is off with one of these
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KILM8Q0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1422014654&sr=8-1&dpPl=1&dpID=31er3Euvx9L&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40
I got an inexpensive Amazon volt meter, $2.40. It is hooked up so that it is only on when the engine is running. That makes it less accurate because of all the wiring between the battery and the meter.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P7QC8PW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use a real volt meter to check the battery voltage in the resting state, unloaded and not being charged, for 8 to 12 hours. I also use a hydrometer to check the specific gravity of the electrolyte. This one looks good, mine is very old.
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4619-Professional-Battery-Hydrometer/dp/B0050SFVHO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1478312351&sr=8-3&keywords=hydrometer+battery
A really good marine battery monitor system is about $200. I got a battery power analyzer for radio control (RC) toys, $10.55. I use it to measure the current that different things use to figure out how much I'm using.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019OHZN9M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Yeah, I definitely wouldn't recommend taking a multimeter to that kind of connector. Dead shorts on a lithium pack are no joke.
The cheaper ones like this aren't very robust, but here's a power meter that might meet your needs, if the included LCD with your kit doesn't display voltage. If you go with something like this, put it between the battery and the controller, and it'll track power consumption as well as voltage. The display gets washed out in sunlight though, so it's not great for trying to keep an eye on while riding.
Both from Amazon
YZXstudio 1270 meter, a XINY Load Tester Board and RIJER USB adapters