Best 3d printer platforms according to redditors
We found 293 Reddit comments discussing the best 3d printer platforms. We ranked the 60 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
10. Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet, 10" x 10" 3D Printing Build Surface with 3M 468MP Adhesive Tape
7 mentions
The Monoprice Maker Select V2 goes on sale regularly for less than the normal $350 price tag, I got mine for $312.
However, if you don't need the larger build area (180x180x200mm) then the MP Select Mini is only $200 and a definite recommendation from me. It has a smaller (120x120x1200mm) build area, but the quality is pretty much the same as the other printer. I have both and can directly compare them.
Both options have a heated bed, and the maker select v2 comes with buildtak (or a knockoff of buildtak, still works) but you can buy a 3-pack of 6.5" buildtak from amazon for under $20 and cut it to fit the mini.
I've mentioned it in several posts before, here are some of the reasons why I recommend the mini.
* As for the wifi, this printer is a rebranded Malyan M200. You can get the wifi firmware from here. Follow the instructions in that folder and you're good to go. Then use the android app found here to set it up on your network.
The wireless interface is even simpler than the normal one on the printer, for better or for worse.
It also comes fully assembled, just level the bed, insert filament, and print. The maker select v2 requires some assembly, but it's literally just bolting two pieces together and attaching the filament spool somewhere.
FYI there is a PEI sheet with 3M already on it for much cheaper
You want to update Marlin
You are going to run into problems
This makes life easier
This fan mod is really really good
There are dozens of variations of these knobs
The stock bed surface can be easily upgraded
These are actually flat
Sure, no problem. I'll give you a bit more info as it may be relevant :)
That said, the biggest contributing factor to getting my prints to stick was the leveling. Once I nailed the leveling, I haven't had a failed print due to poor adhesion. Failures due to other things, sure. But not because of the glass :)
This happened to me after a while as well. The solution was to buy a piece of borosilicate glass like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BYJQH79/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_NF3CCbCG26B3V and clip it on with small binder clips. I even ended up putting a piece of buildtak on top of my glass because I really like buildtak but needed the perfect flatness of glass.
Install a sheet of PEI on top of the glass. No messing with glue or hair spray nonsense.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GSJSDWR/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Here is my CR-10S.
I added the Petsfang fan fang. Added this fan to the fang.
I added these Z-Axis braces. Added these LEDs to the Z-Braces.
I'm printing on a mirror tile with a sheet of PEI bonded to it.
Last week I added the TH3D EZABL and have been encouraged by the results. It creates a Z-offset map of the build plate before every print. I can see the Z-steppers move during X-Y moves so I can tell it's working. Manual bed-leveling was working OK for smaller prints, but I could never get all 4 corners to agree with the center height. I suspect my aluminum bed plate is shaped like a Pringles chip.
I really like the Marlin Firmware over the OEM version. I don't mind not having auto-resume since I plugged my printer into a UPS system.
Right now my printer is about 20 hours into a 60-hour print of a T-Rex skull. I've been really happy with this printer! It was my first and I've been having a ball with it.
I’ve been using this one all year
Some folks use binder clips to keep their on, I prefer silicon thermal pads (see the frequently bought together section)
You’ll also want hairspray or glue sticks. I use a purpose-made product called magigoo that helps with adhesion at the start of the print, then pops right off once the build plate cools
Here's the rant
The fix, use Cura's "Pause at Height" plug-in, but after changing the filament home the printer before hitting resume.
No where does it say to do this, and in none of the tutorial videos does it say to do this. So simple, but no where is this ever mentioned or shown.
STL
Printer
Filament
As a bed plate, its frickin amazing stuff.
https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Printer-Surface-Polyetherimide/dp/B01KBGJU5S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487383834&sr=8-2&keywords=pei+3d+printer
Do some youtubing and googling. Never need glue or hairspray again.
You can't, I've destroyed mine and installed PEI.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KBGJU5S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Stick it down with this stuff here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7D5NQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
When you use this stuff you just wipe it with rubbing alcohol to clean the surface. Then it gives you near perfectly smooth prints where it touches the surface. The prints pop off easy after it cools but holds tight when it's warm. Personally I find it a waste of money to buy glue sticks/hair spray if you don't have to. Although I did buy glass I never installed it after this worked so well. It's amazing stuff and you'll never have to replace it.
Agreed. This was the best investment I could have made in my MPSMV2. I bought this one, there are cheaper ways to go, but I felt that the savings in time and fiddling around cutting glass was well worth the cost. Be sure you first print a 3mm gap adjustment device. I printed several including an adjustable one, but settled on this one from Thingiverse. I did not remove the black pad on my V2, I just use tiny binder clips to attach the glass to the bed. It leveled perfectly and heats very well.
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I used a piece of 20 lb copy paper to set my nozzle gap, so even though you own a feeler gauge, I recommend checking it against a piece of paper. You want the first layer to be a flattened tube, not a round tube as it appears in your pictures.
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Many people suggest Aqua Net hair spray, but my store only carried it in aerosol. I felt that would be a mess to spray onto the glass, so I got some pump hair spray that was right next to the Aqua Net on the cheap shelf (it had similar ingredients to the Aqua Net, primarily water). I spray the hairspray onto a paper towel and then wipe the cold glass to create a very thin film. I have found that the adhesion is excellent at 50-60 degrees, and the parts pop right off after the bed cools (using PLA, various brands).
Edit: Success! Increased bed heat to 60c and used the famous gluestick. That resolved to lack of adhesion for me and got me a good benchy. now, there are other issues to resolve still - but isn't that half the adventure with this hobby? Thanks for all the help everyone!
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Looking for some guidance on the right steps to troubleshoot and hopefully resolve my new issues.
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TL:DR: Installed new glass build plate and PLA prints will not stick. No successful prints over 30 minutes yet. I've had one print completely detach, and this benchy had significant warping. The issue wasn't present with the buildTak - but the buildTak had insane adhesion - too much actually.
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Setup:
Monoprice Select Mini v2. Almost all stock, this is the first build related upgrade. PLA, 50c bed temp, 200c hotend temp, 0.175 layer height, 20% infill, 50mm print speed.
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Long Version:
I had been using the buildtak for a few months and had two problems: too much adhesion (breaking prints while removing from buildtak) and the bed was bowing up in the middle.
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I bought this borosilicate glass plate and a silicone thermal pad to make sure it would heat up. Installed them, z spacer, attach with 4 binder clips, leveled the bed. Tried using it without any other changes and PLA would not stick at all. Then tried to use some hairspray and it appeared to work after a little fiddling. Finally got what I thought was a good first and second layer. Checked on it about every 10 minutes and suddenly I noticed that it's about half off the glass surface with warping. I was pretty sure it was going to detach completely soon, so I just stopped the print.
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Anyone have suggestions on how to properly use glass or some tricks? I was previously using tricks to get less adhesion so this is a bit new - and I'd prefer to keep the glass as flat/smooth as possible (wouldn't prefer to sand it for example).
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I've tried heating the bed to 60c and letting it pre-heat for longer to let the glass heat up and that seemed to help, but not completely. I've also tried to slow down the first layer and that seemed to help the first layer adhesion a bit - I haven't re-tried a benchy with a slower 1st layer yet, but I wasn't confident that helped the adhesion enough to prevent the warping.
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I printed a bed level test and so long as the PLA stuck, it looks pretty good - although my center is higher than the edges even though all 4 corners look OK - but that's an issue for another day and another thread.
I picked up this one (235mm x 235mm) and have been extremely happy with it.
So far, comments have focused on the glass bed. FWIW, your bed seems similar to mine:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RD6D2ZQ
I've had at least 1000 successful prints on the "dimpled" side of this bed and have never used any kind of adhesion aid. I clean it with a quick wipe of alcohol (for one or two seconds) between prints and it's good to go again.
My guess is that you still haven't managed to level your bed properly. Can you upload a pic of one of your attempts at a first layer? That would help a lot.
Buying this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RD6D2ZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and buying this in order to properly calibrate e-steps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AQEZ2W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These two things took my prints from adequate to pristine. Huge improvement.
Can we a get a closeup of the first layer only? It will help if we can get a really good look at the size/shape/texture of the first layer extrusions.
Tape and glue and everything can work, but it's always been a huge hassle for me. https://smile.amazon.com/BuildTak-Printing-Build-Surface-Square/dp/B00MN5X304 might be worth a little money. In my experience that printer does just fine with buildtak and a hot bed, as long as you have your nozzle height dialed in and the bed leveled. It might be worth $20 just to remove the surface material from the equation.
As for the nozzle wiping bit, that's a huge pain in the ass. If you're up for learning a little g-code (it's not hard), I recommend changing your pre-print g-code to move the nozzle directly onto the bed during the heatup phase, this keeps the goo in and makes your life a lot easier.
Also, you should change your skirt distance to about 15mm. The point of the skirt is to prime the nozzle. Moving the skirt away from the part will increase the skirt path length, which means more priming, which means you won't have to restart prints after a bad start as often.
I posted this to the Mini Delta Owners Facebook group on July 8, 2017 but I thought I would share my experience here also.
 
"It's been almost 3½ months and I finally had to replace the build surface. Worst part was getting the adhesive from the build plate (not shown). It was easier to remove after spreading a bit of Goo Gone over the entire surface and let sit. After 5 or 10 minutes I used razor blade to peel of the nasty goo."
 
I replaced it with BuildTak 3D Printing Build Surface, 4.5" x 4.5" Square, Black (Pack of 3)
I used the original bed surface that I removed as a template to trace the outline onto the 4.5 inch square BuildTak sheet.
I'm using a matrix precision XY upgrade with a 12v heater and using a trimmed pei sheet.
http://i.imgur.com/He5c7Kr.gifv
Heated bed, thermistor, prewire options if you lack pcb soldering equipment.
I want to clarify that when this person is saying "PEI over glass" that this person is saying to put PEI [on top of] borosilicate glass, not in place of glass.
A sheet of PEI with 3M 468MP adhesive tape to borosilicate glass is a game changer. Use simple binder clips to keep it on the bed.
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Edit: I stand corrected. OP was genuinely saying to use PEI instead of glass. I don't suggest adhering PEI directly to your plate because you're not always going to want to print on PEI depending on your material, and PEI will eventually get bubbles and warp and you'll want to be able to replace it.
Source: Have used PEI for over a year now.
PEI, Polyethylenimine, is a type of plastic and you can buy it in various forms (including sheets). It's handy because it's nice and sticky to plastics like PLA when it's heated but releases well when it's at room temperature (a few taps along the edge of the base of the print releases most things). The only issue I've had with it is that TPU sticks a bit too well, but TPU's really best printed on a pure glass bed anyways.
I've got a sheet of PEI adhered to a glass sheet and clipped to my print bed. It works great.
Raft, Skirt, Brim.
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/articles/rafts-skirts-and-brims/
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i4y8TCj2RuM
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And this or Glass gives a shiny, reflective bottom.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XJLWL6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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I recommend a PEI sheet on top of the glass. I get really nice first layers using it. This is the one I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XJLWL6
I sprung for a sheet of PEI and it's been great, buffed it with ultrafine steel wool and wipe the bed with isopropyl alcohol before each print. no tape, glue or hairspray needed.
I replaced the stock glass with mirrored tiles from Home Depot. I used to use tape and glue sticks but read a comment on how much better PEI sheets were to print on. No more glue or tape, just rub it down with rubbing alcohol between prints.
It sticks very well when heated up, and comes off almost effortlessly when cooled down. You also get a shiny surface on the part touching the PEI sheet which is nice. Well worth $21 from Amazon.
Amazon. Here is the links:
GO-3D PRINT 130mm x 160mm Borosilicate Glass Plate Bed Flat Polished Edge w/Corners Cut for Monoprice MP Select Mini 3D Print https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075XJ5ZP1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_-aUxDb3EP28M4
ZUPAYIPA 400mm x 210mm x 0.5mm Silicone Thermal Pad for CPU GPU Heatsink https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9HGKR1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_vbUxDb1VVQ706
Paying someone to do the full set will definitely run you more than the cost of this printer. It's the printer I have. It's a bit finnicky, but the price is right, and it prints well enough for me! I'd also highly recommend getting a glass bed for it. It's stupid easy to install the glass bed (you just lower the normal bed and clip the glass to it with binder clips), and it makes the prints come loose soooo much easier. You can also have a hardware store cut the glass for you and it will be a bit cheaper than that Amazon link.
I will say, though: I only recommend buying a 3D printer if you're willing to devote some time to it. It's not like an InkJet where you plug it in and it just works. It takes calibration, and learning which settings work best. You'll have to do some research to get the best quality for your prints.
I have a glass bed, too. What I do is, once the print's finished and cooled down to room temp, I throw it in the freezer for about 15 minutes. The print just pops off. In fact, most times it just falls off.
[edit] It also helps that I bought this, the edges are already fairly rounded, plus since it's the same material as Pyrex®, less chance of breakage. You can look his store name up on Google, he usually has them available there when he's out on Amazon.
This is the most important one IMO. Eventually you should switch to a glass bed. It's pretty trivial, you just print a shim to change the z end stop and clip a glass bed overtop the buildtak (at least that's what I did).
A new fan shroud is worth doing
As is this little plate
Speaking of, are you aware of the magic numbers? You can find them with an explanation here: https://www.mpselectmini.com/optimal_layer
I had the exact same issues. A glass bed, thermal pad, and aquanet hairspray (yes, two is cheaper than 1) fixed it and I haven't had bed adhesion problems since. In fact, I have to use a flat razerblade just to get prints off the bed sometimes, lol.
first tune your bed again and adjust your head distance from bed using sticky note method and check for loose bolts around z axis and underside of the bed. if that doesnt work, a good idea is to use some type of adhesive such as a glue stick or hairspray (i have gotten better results with hairspray), also its a good investment to purchase a glass bed for ender 3 (just like a cr-10 bed) it fixes the huge warping issue found on the aluminum bed of the Ender 3, and as a bonus you get smooth surface finish on bottom and you dont get the issues where previous remnants of prints embed themself into the new print, also prints come off wayyyy easier, especially when the bed is cool.
here is link for glass bed:
https://www.amazon.com/235mm-Borosilicate-Glass-Creality-Printer/dp/B07D6J92KB/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?hvadid=253827494591&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9072187&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=b&hvrand=1232986917444229130&hvtargid=kwd-503388888718&keywords=ender+3+glass&qid=1567854330&s=gateway&sr=8-3
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D6J92KB/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This seems to work for people, I have a cr10 so I used an IKEA mirror
Not so much optimization but you'll find that every 3D printer is going to have self printed customization added to it. Things like spool holders and tool boxes. You'll find things like that for both models on Thingiverse but you'll find more for the Ender3 than you will for the Mega.
I don't own an Ender3 and I am happy with my Mega, but if I were in your shoes I'd go with the Ender. From all accounts it's a great printer that will require a little more setup but /r/ender3 is an active subreddit who can provide assistance when you get going and it's currently going for an amazing price at Woot today only.
Edit: If you do go with the Ender I would suggest you also pick something like this up. From what I'm reading it's just like the Ultrabase for the Mega and makes removing prints a dream. Honestly you just let it cool down and the prints can just be picked up. You end up saving filament because you don't have to create rafts and such.
It's CCTree on Amazon. I'm not unhappy, but it's not what I thought it was. It has a textured side, and a side with an adhesive to stick to the metal bed. The reviews mentioned one side being smooth; which is what I wanted. I have thought about trying to remove the adhesive, but haven't gotten around to it. The textured side has done really good on adhesion issues with PLA, but I was really wanting the smooth surface for the bottom
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F6CLTD7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xWjCCb8BBHV6E
as someone brand new to 3d printing--
I just bought an ender 3 last week... I hear a glass bed and aluminum nozzle are crucial upgrades.. Looks like a couple third party ones are discounted for prime day-- are any of them worth while? Is there a difference?
https://www.amazon.com/Sovol-Creality-Replacement-Extruder-Aluminum/dp/B07KSS8FRQ/ref=sr_1_16?keywords=ender+3&psr=PDAY&qid=1563208182&s=prime-day&sr=1-16#customerReviews
https://www.amazon.com/3D-Extruder-Aluminum-Filament-Creality/dp/B07B96QMN2?tag=slicinc-20&ascsubtag=e4bbd68ca71e11e9b248d2e5958396b20INT
https://www.amazon.com/Extruder-Upgraded-Replacement-Aluminum-Filament/dp/B07NVBYKTY/ref=sr_1_22_sspa?keywords=ender+3&psr=PDAY&qid=1563208182&s=prime-day&sr=1-22-spons&psc=1#customerReviews
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https://www.amazon.com/DIYE-Premium-Printer-Borosilicate-Creality/dp/B07NDJTV3V/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=ender+3&psr=PDAY&qid=1563208182&s=prime-day&sr=1-17
https://www.amazon.com/CHPOWER-Creality-Platform-Upgraded-235x235MM/dp/B07GL2NMV5?tag=slicinc-20&ascsubtag=e135e994a71e11e9b972a6226f9167e90INT
i wish to share my experience with this advice.
I did this. went to lowe's, paid $4 for 2 pieces of 3mm mirror cut to size.
and proceeded to literally fail almost every cheap adhesion technique out there. so if that happens to you, dont be discouraged.
i failed clean glass (no adhesives), failed glue stick, failed hair spray, and finally failed sugar water. cleaned each religiously with 99% isoproyl, everything was fine. 5 point layer test showed perfect layers (https://imgur.com/a/JPZqbks#ueqqWi7 - im talking perfect,), but during an actual print, it would fail due to bed adhesion unless i had an obscene amount of brim/raft to secure things.
decided to head to amazon and pick up a piece of PEI sheet and have never looked back. put it on the mirror tile i was using and boom out of the last 40 or so prints ive not had 1 failed adhesion yet. i picked up the one from gizmo dorks as it already had the adhesive attached to the PEI and install was easy enough (this is the one i chose https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Preapplied-Laminated-Adhesive/dp/B07GSJSDWR/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=pei+sheet&qid=1558833899&s=gateway&sr=8-3 )
so OP, take this story as you will, some people get away with no adhesives, but I could not for the life of me find out why nothing would stick to my cut mirror.
If I am understanding correctly, the prints stick everywhere else except the middle. This could be from the heated bed not being completely flat, from either a manufacturer defect, heating the bed can cause it to flex slightly, and also the act of leveling with 4 points will cause stress to the bed and cause it to not be flat.
If you want to resolve the issue there are a few thing you can do. First I recommend getting a glass bed of some kind. I use this: https://www.amazon.com/Glass-Print-Borosilicate-Printer-235x235x3-7mm/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=pd_bxgy_328_2/146-3360479-3249561?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07JKGNB6W&pd_rd_r=1be203f4-8159-11e9-8887-9b31b6cb4217&pd_rd_w=QkaU5&pd_rd_wg=lhVMV&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=MJKHHJRB1R0V6D2Q2C61&psc=1&refRID=MJKHHJRB1R0V6D2Q2C61
with this PEI sheet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GSJSDWR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Second you can do a bed conversion from 4 corners to 3-point leveling. Check this guide by Makeitmakeitmakeit for more info: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3415460
you will need this, made by rrwrex, if you do the conversion: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3193722
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This is a make of my conversion which I have done on 2 Ender 3s and no longer have to level unless I mess with the bed: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:636770
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Also check this guide out here tons of good info: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3574369
Yes my friend
Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet 3D Printer Build Surface 235mm x 235mm (9.3" x 9.3") with Preapplied Laminated 3M 468MP Adhesive for Creality Ender 3 or CR 20 | Made in The USA
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GSJSDWR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gbsPDbPNKDNM9
Glass Print Bed Borosilicate Glass 3D Printer Glass Print Bed 235x235x3.7mm for Ender 3 DC-01 Glass Print Bed Borosilicate Glass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_T-sPDbX4FQ8EG
https://www.amazon.com/BuildTak-Printing-Build-Surface-Square/dp/B00MN5X2YG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484181668&sr=8-1&keywords=buildtak
Make sure you don't print too close to the surface, or the plastic will be squished into the sheet which will permanently join the two.
I use this on my Davinci and I almost exclusively print ABS. Almost never have lifting problems, even on large prints.
I don't know where you tried sourcing the glass, but a sheet of borosilicate is only $11 on Amazon, which is just $1.74 more than the Buildtak I found (which comes in at 3 for $27.75), and doesn't wear out.
I would first try and level the bed, I followed this video and came out well: https://youtu.be/dzrc3e0VZjU (leveling starts at 2:32). Also have you tried a calicat print?
Edit: also I use the BuildTak plate and it’s the best, link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MN5X4RQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XgePAbJV72B9D
Edit edit: what were the settings of the print and the type of filament used?
You mean these? And if I do his how do I remove the old pad?
Is this what you use? https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Printer-Surface-Polyetherimide/dp/B01KBGJU5S
Not OP, but I got this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QQ5Q3BI look for something similar/same size.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PPEW52 to attach it to the metal plate
I ended up getting this and m3 tape too. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KBGJU5S
I'd attach the PEI to the glass bed, you can use the fancy 3M tape and it won't bubble up on you. if you want nylon just flip the plate over and use the glass side.
As far as cutting it, i just used a straight edge, scored it, then deepened the cut a bit and cracked it apart.
I think Amazon might be cheaper, there's
https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Printing-Surface-Adhesive/dp/B01KGDTNQ2/
That includes the 3m tape which would add on another $10-15 if bought separately.
This is what you need. Just have to cut it after it is applied to a glass bed. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KGDTNQ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GVAxyb1N0F9Z4
I've been printing non-stop on my MK2 and the only reason I replaced my PEI sheet was because I scarred it during my first setup. I have 3 sheets of PEI from Prusa at the house just as backup because I know they run out fast. But, I bought some off amazon from Gizmo Dorks. Its thicker than Prusa's PEI, but it gives prints a perfectly smooth bottom, nearly mirror like. I love it.
Here's a link (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KGDTNQ2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to the sheet I bought. I also picked up a couple 5x7 picture frames so I can adhere the PEI to a sheet of glass and have a removable build surface. Both panes of glass fit almost perfectly side by side on the PEI sheet so all I need to do is cut it into quarters and adhere it to the glass. I haven't done that yet because I'm sanding down the sharp edges of the glass to avoid any cuts while handling. I'm also thinking about finding a glass cutter and making the panes perfect squares so I'll still have access to the leveling screws once I put the PEI + glass onto the printer.
save yourself some headache and get one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Printing-Surface-Adhesive/dp/B01KGDTPQK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484844933&sr=8-2&keywords=PEI
Here you go. Just buy the appropriate size for your printer!
for your size, this would be the easiest solution.
You just wouldn't be able to sand it. But it can still last a long time if you're careful with it.
This the one I got:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074XG1NDM?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Note some of them have adhesive on one side, the one I got doesn’t. I just use the binder clips so I can take it off if I need to.
I developed chips in my glass build plate and put a PEI sheet on top of it. So far, loving it more than purple glue stick on glass. It takes a lot less bed heat for that sweet spot of good adhesion and fairly trouble free release. PEI sheet does take a very careful release process on large base builds to not damage the sheet. Tall builds often can be tapped off with the scraper handle.
Using PEI sheet over the glass plate made me realize a thin sheet of metal would be better. Aluminum didn't turn out to be a good surface to directly 3D print on, but an aluminum sheet covered with a PEI sheet should work great, since the aluminum would still be a good heat transfer. The combination of the PEI sheet over the aluminum plate removes all the critical specifics of them, by themselves. Easy removal, cheap, no gluestick needed, nice clean bottom quality (not mirror though). The combination of plate and PEI sheet is a dirt cheap build base.
https://www.amazon.com/RMP-Inch-6061-T451-Aluminum-Sheet/dp/B0147KXYNS/ref=sr_1_73?ie=UTF8&qid=1541445527&sr=8-73&keywords=aluminum+plate+0.25+12x12
https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Sheet-Printer-Surface/dp/B074XG1NDM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541445575&sr=8-2&keywords=12x12+pei+sheet
In place of it. Really strong adherence to the surface too, without much heat needed for the bed. I did find I had to tighten the bed a bit more, since there's a bit of give to the surface vs glass.
This is the kind I bought - PEI Sheet from Gizmo Dorks
Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet 8" x 8" 1 mm 3D Printer Build Surface with 3M 468MP Adhesive Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074XJLWL6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kgyXAbNEW8B6H
Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet 8" x 8" (203mm x 203mm) 1mm Thick 3D Printer Build Surface with 3M 468MP Adhesive, Made in The USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074XJLWL6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_T2H9Bb7E9V5RS
I have the same printer you do. I bought that, placed it over the black mat that is installed, secured it with metal binder clips, leveled my bed, built an enclosure out of foam board and print with ABS. Wipe it down between prints with alcohol. No adhesion issues at all. Let your print cool 30 minutes and they pop right off.
Also, tighten your bolts around the rods, they are accessed from the bottom of the motors. Mine were loose when shipped. https://3dprinterwiki.info/wiki/wanhao-duplicator-i3/
The first thing I did when I got mine was replace the stock extruder fan with a radial fan + a diiicooler link
I also printed a z-axis stabilizer
Upgrading the to an all metal hot end is also a solid choice
Getting a pei sheet and a piece of borosilicate glass for your build plate will help too.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074XJLWL6?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf this isn't an affiliate link or anything, just copy and pasted from the amazon app. I had to cut the sheet down a bit. It scores and breaks pretty nicely. Keep in mind it's about 1mm thick though.
It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!
Here is link number 1 - Previous text "PEI"
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^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete
Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet 12" x 12" 1 mm 3D Printer Build Surface with 3M 468MP Adhesive Tape
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074XLD5QH
I bought this one and it's been working great. It's thick enough that it can take some prying and if it starts to lose adhesion you can lightly sand it with some 1000 grit to restore it.
Best thing to do is get some Mirror Tiles at any Home Improvement store. Cheap and flat (who wants a wavy mirror? LOL).
Lowes in the US has them $9 for Six. I had two not flat but 4 fine. Home Depot and Ace Hardware also have them IKEA is another source.
>Athorbot adhesive mats - Those are a knockoff clone of the BuildTak mats. They're OK, but do wear out.
I went down that road last year, ended up using PEI on my printers and haven't looked back:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XLD5QH
Sticks well when warm or hot, releases almost instantly when cool.
But BEFORE any of this works your Bed needs to be flat,most machines it's NOT. (Not the glass, the Aluminium bed).
A quick check with a known straight edge (like a 24" machinist's rule) will let you see. Put it edge on with a well lit white wall or sheet of paper and check the bed, front to rear, also side to side.
Most have a dip in the center, some are raised in the center.
Unless the glass is VERY thick, it will dip when clipped to the bed.
I did a couple posts / comments about how to properly flatten the bed. It's a bit of work, but you'll do your happy dance when it's nice & flat.
Most adhesion & first layer issues are caused by an unflat and un-trammed (proper name for "leveled") bed. Probably 50-60% of the "Help Me!" posts are this!
With a properly trammed bed you don't need glue or Hairspray, or tape or other "goop" in 90% of the cases. You can actually print straight onto the glass or PEI, many do. (including MOI) Super smooth bottoms.
Here's' the posts, first, some basics:
https://www.reddit.com/r/CR10/comments/86c47m/psa_a_must_read_by_anyone_who_levels_their_bed_or/
Then follow this to tram the bed:
https://www.reddit.com/r/CR10/comments/7rpq2x/can_i_simulate_a_print_without_damaging_the/
Let us know how it goes!! Trust me, it's worth the effort.
PuterPro
For the glass bed I recommend getting a borosilicate glass. It’s that the old Pyrex is made of. Resist heat differences without shattering. Here’s the link of the one I got. 130mm x 160mm Borosilicate Glass Plate Bed Flat Polished Edge w/ Corners Cut for 3D Print https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075XJ5ZP1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_tn7G8jRd96iU2
I had this happen on mine. Scrape it off the best you can and use Goo-Gone to purge the remaining adhesive. Once you have a clean metal bed, painters tape works great and is cheap and easy to replace. If you are feeling up to it, you can install a glass bed on top of the metal like I did, just make sure to level the bed right if you do because the glass adds extra space. Then use a purple glue stick for some extra adhesion if you need it!
​
Here is the link to the bed I am using, and I am completely satisfied so far -> https://www.amazon.com/Borosilicate-Polished-Corners-Monoprice-Select/dp/B075XJ5ZP1/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549203064&sr=8-1-fkmr2&keywords=monoprice+mini+v2+glass+bed
>oes stick hella hard if you use a glue stick, but when I've used no glue and PLA, then let the print cool down, it slides off with no effort
https://www.amazon.com/Borosilicate-Polished-Corners-Monoprice-Select/dp/B075XJ5ZP1/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537446780&sr=8-1&keywords=mp+mini+select+glass+bed
​
So something like that? Id prefer to do as little mods as possible but im noticing glass it defiantly needed as the prints are hard to get off.
I had good luck with this glass with the corners pre-cut:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075XJ5ZP1/
Don't forget to get this to help transfer the heat from the aluminum to the glass, also helps as a non-slip surface to help hold the glass in place:
https://www.amazon.com/400mm-205mm-Silicone-Thermal-Heatsink/dp/B007PPEW52/
Print off a Z-Spacer (like this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1808029)Pull off the black mat, clean well with adhesive remover, and install glass. I use this one, which fits perfectly: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075XJ5ZP1/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've never had great luck getting adhesion straight on glass, but the glass will give you a flat bed. If you have adhesion issues, go with blue tape.
bed wayyyyyy to far from the nozzle. I got tired of dealing with that shit, so I got some borosilicate glass and use a glue stick...
As far as the bed wiring goes, it's a common problem for them to get pinched due to the way they are routed and mounted at the factory. This usually ends up in an opening in the circuit (either in the heater or the thermistor wires, or both) because the wire inside the insulation has actually broken. If your bed temp reading shows 0 or 999 during printing or preheating, it has happened to you. This guide helped me with rewiring and rerouting the bed wires to eliminate this problem when it happened to me. If you're not comfortable with soldering it yourself there even a link in there to where you can buy a whole new bed with the wires already soldered on. Then just print the parts they recommend for the new side panel and you're good to go! Also, since I soldered my wires directly off the back of the bed I went with a center mount for the cable brace grommet, there are remixes to the one linked in the guide. As a final note, I recommend a glass bed, this is the one that I got and I just hold it on with small binder clips. With that, a bit of glue stick, and the heated bed, I'm getting the best adhesion I could ever need. After a print is done just throw it in the freezer for 30 minutes and it will pop right off. If you've already seen all this but haven't taken the time to do it, just do it! It's definitely worth it. If it's new info for you then I hope it helps. Happy printing!
I have a thermal pad sandwiched between the glass plate and the bed and it provides decent friction to keep the plate on but I also use two metal bag clips in the front and back to make sure the plate is pressed against the bed.
Glass Plate: BKM 130mm X 160mm, 3mm Thick Borosilicate Glass Plate, Select Mini
Alternatively, I've heard of people using glass they cut from a picture frame using a glass cutter
Thermal Pad: uxcell 400mm x 205mm x 0.5mm Silicone Thermal Pad for CPU GPU Heatsink
Not entirely necessary but supposedly this helps transfer heat more evenly and you get a huge sheet so you can get like 4 uses out of it if you optimize your cutting.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DS2LZF1/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_nKAoDbWK999VD
creality has a copy of the ultrabase that's been working very well on my E3 - after i upped Y-axis vref...
https://www.amazon.com/Creality-Upgraded-3D-Platform-235x235x3mm/dp/B07DS2LZF1/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1539883334&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=ender+3+glass+bed&psc=1
Those couplers are trash and so is the PTFE tube they sent. They may work for a while but you'll want to swap them sooner rather than later. Here's a list of upgrades you'll probably want to do. You'll also want to look up a tutorial on how to upgrade your firmware so you can activate safety features (thermal runaway protection specifically). This also doesn't include a BLTouch or EZABL (auto bed levelers) as I have yet to make a choice personally.
Couplers and Tube:
SIQUK 3 Pieces Teflon Tube PTFE... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FPJHRTQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Metal Extruder: ( original plastic one will wear out or break)
Ender 3 Creality 3D Upgrade... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KSS8FRQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Bed Springs: (more than needed but oh well)
SIQUK 16 Pieces Heated Bed... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K9PBML5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Glass Bed: (goes on top of print bed which is usually warped, printing on an uneven surface not so bueno)
Creality Upgraded 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DS2LZF1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Raspberry Pi 3B+ for OctoPrint: (still need microsd card for it I believe)
CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 B+ (B... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BC6WH7V?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Stepper Motor Dampers: (silences the motors, no more sounding like dial up internet lol will need to print mounts from thingiverse)
Upgraded NEMA 17 Stepper Steel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DNT72SF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Heat Sinks For Stepper Motors: (once stepper motors have dampers and aren't attached to the metal frame, they can get a little hot)
40mmx40mmx10mm Black Radiator... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KWVGGGK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Hot end silicone sleeve: (may not need, mine came with one instead of the old insulation)
Creality Original 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HNXJ39T?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Extra Filament: (ender 3 only comes with a small sample "spool", this is just a brand I use and have had decent results with. The metallic silver hue shows off detail well)
3D Printer PLA Filament 1.75MM... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME7YUIU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I purchased this build plate and was upset when this kind of gel coat came off of it with alcohol. I cleaned it off a kept using it. I love it now. It still has a coat on it. For small parts i still use a glue stick just in case. I got the blue springs also. Its a good set up. I never got 1 good print from my removable bed.
Amazon:
CCTREE Upgraded 3D Printer Ultrabase Platform Heated Bed Build Surface Tempered Glass Plate for Creality Ender 3/Ender 3 Pro Ender 5 GEEETECH A10 3D Printer 235x235x4mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F6CLTD7/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_vxQhDb0KMPC83
Something like this (find the size closest to what you need):
https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Printer-Laminated-Adhesive/dp/B07FVQJ7QK
Also, this is the one I bought, it works great!
https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Printer-Laminated-Adhesive/dp/B07FVQJ7QK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=3SY6IDWGCNHOE&keywords=pei+sheet&qid=1555898391&s=gateway&sprefix=pei&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
Second - some Amazon links for the upgrade pieces I mention:
Springs - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SDDHYN4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Bowden Tube - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079P92HN9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Couplings - https://smile.amazon.com/Dorhea-Straight-Pneumatic-Fittings-Accessories/dp/B07NSRCH2W/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=3d+printer+fitting&qid=1574436375&sr=8-15
Extruder - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079JZ374W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
PEI Sheet - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GSJSDWR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Stepper Motor Dampeners - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7FRLNX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Bootloader Flashing Kit - https://smile.amazon.com/Gulfcoast-Robotics-Bootloader-Flashing-Duplicator/dp/B07S5BBLKM/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=arduino+uno+ender+3+kit&qid=1574436535&s=industrial&sr=1-3
Note that I didn't buy this flashing kit, but this one seems to have everything you need to get a bootloader onboard the Ender. What happens is you go through a bunch of steps to attach this so the printer and then put a bootloader onto the Ender 3 board. You only have to do that one time, then you can update the firmware as often as you want - typically via a USB cable. I have Octoprint installed, so I can flash my firmware on my basement printers from my upstairs computer using wifi. Super easy and handy.
What I did was I got a nice thick borosilicate glass plate from amazon, the one with the corners cut off so it fits the bed perfectly without the heated bed bolts interfering. Then I got a sheet of PEI with 3M adhesive on the back. I cleaned the glass with alcohol and then carefully applied the PEI so there weren't any air bubbles.
​
This is the glass:
https://smile.amazon.com/Gulfcoast-Robotics-Borosilicate-Duplicator-Printers/dp/B07B2YLWF9/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2640M0KDOPOV&keywords=borosilicate+glass+plate&qid=1555903635&s=gateway&sprefix=borosilicate+glass+pl%2Caps%2C153&sr=8-5
​
And this is the kind of PEI:
https://smile.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Preapplied-Laminated-Adhesive/dp/B07GSJSDWR/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=PEI+sheet&qid=1555903728&s=gateway&sr=8-4
​
I have gone through a handful of these borosilicate sheets, and have had one or two that were warped. All of them were thinner than the Gulf Coast Robotics one. Theirs is bang on flat and way tougher, hands down the best. When you apply the PEI, make sure you do it very carefully as to not create any bubbles underneath. I started on the center of one edge and slowly applied from one side to the other, peeling the backing off as I went. Press it down from the center out as you lay it down and you shouldn't get any bubbles. Lots of very tiny bubbles are to be expected and work their way out after a while (Im talking really tiny). As for attaching the glass to the bed, a set of four binder clips are perfect. Don't bother with the thermal pads some people suggest, they make it a pain to remove the glass in between prints and don't really do anything.
​
This is a great way to have a removable build surface that everything sticks to. I have since moved up to a Prusa MK3, so I get to enjoy the luxury of the magnetic PEI build plate. You could get a similar thing going, BuildTak sells a magnetic build surface that you apply to the heated bed. The drawback of this is that if your bed is warped at all, the magnetic sheet does nothing to correct it. The thick glass on the other hand makes everything nice and flat.
​
I should add that to put the glass sheet on, you will have to move your z endstop switch down. There are several mounting holes on the printer to do this already so its really not that hard, you just have to experiment. The glass is about 4mm thick so you have to adjust for it.
go to lowes and have a piece of glass cut for about 3 bucks, buy a sheet of PEI (like this one) slap it on the glass and never worry about bed adhesion problems, glue sticks, painters tape or any other stupid bed problems again. You hit print, it prints and sticks, it cools and you pop it off easily with the result of a butter-smooth first layer.
I ended up ordering a generic borosilicate glass bed and applied some GizmoDorks PEI to the top of it. Works excellent and I don't need to use any painters tape or glue stick with it. It was a great upgrade from stock and much easier to level. Haven't decided yet if I want to dump my dial indicator leveling for a BLTouch or equivalent. I might end up doing that though.
I was going to go with something like this because I don't mind spending a little bit of money: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RD6D2ZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_KRuDDbGMR3EMH
Would a mirror be better, or is it basically the same idea?
Idk about $180, but you can definitely save a bit of money if you order it from the warehouse in China. It just takes longer to arrive, and I personally feel more comfortable dealing with Amazon, as compared to eBay or Alibaba.
OP, here are a few purchasing option links. Also, I would go with the glass bed option if I were you. The eBay link has the option to choose "Ender 3 + Glass Bed" at what looks like no extra cost. Otherwise, you can buy the glass bed separately for less than $20.
eBay Creality Warehouse store ($205): https://www.ebay.com/itm/Creality-Ender-3-Ender-3-Pro-3D-Printer-220X220X250mm-DC-24V-1-75mm-PLA/223496146513?hash=item3409688e51:m:mCXoexVEaY-yqetXfGJ-tyg
Alibaba Creality Warehouse store ($200): https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Official-Creality-3D-Ender-3-Ender_62047106886.html?spm=a2793.11769229.0.0.49733e5fSDdLkY
Amazon.com ($230): https://www.amazon.com/Comgrow-Creality-Ender-Aluminum-220x220x250mm/dp/B07BR3F9N6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=ender+3&qid=1571603563&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExVko5TVZIMU5VVzRKJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTk4NDkzMkxIQ1ZQRDVRSE1NJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAxMjc0MDlFWEc2V1BKT0ZGWjkmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
Ender 3 Glass Bed ($17): https://www.amazon.com/Creality-Ender-Glass-Upgraded-235x235x4mm/dp/B07RD6D2ZQ/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?keywords=ender+3+glass+bed&qid=1571603812&sr=8-3-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyRjhOSlg2T0ZVRDNLJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDY4MzE3MkJJV1ozNk5VSENKUCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjY0MzIwWUhHWFJSU0U0V1NBJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
The build plate on the Ender is made of aluminum and is infamous for warping under heat, or just being slightly bent out of the box. Whereas a glass bed sits on top of the aluminum build plate.
Most people use glass for the smooth surface, but many Ender owners choose one simply because it provides a level printing surface. Often people will even put the print mat that comes stock on top of the glass, giving them the adhesion benefits of the mat, with the level benefits of the glass.
Some will tell you that a mirror or similar piece of hardware store glass will work fine, but it is known to shatter due to the heating and cooling process. For about $20 on Amazon, an actual Creality borosilicate plate is well worth the cost. (on Amazon )
I just ordered one the other day after doing lots of research. This one has great reviews: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07RD6D2ZQ?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image
When you get the Monoprice I recommend getting a few sheets of Buildtak for the bed instead of using the tape sheets it comes with. It will make print adhesion much easier and is worth the investment in my opinion. Other than that I would say pick up a spool of PLA to get started and have fun.
I've had great luck with MIC6 aluminum plates on printers: https://www.mcmaster.com/#86825k724/=14y4fky
Otherwise, you can order precut glass sheets online: http://www.robotdigg.com/product/239/200*213mm-Borosilicate-Glass-for-Heatbed
I've personally just broken way too many glass sheets removing parts that I don't bother with them anymore.
You should also consider getting a BuildTak print surface too: https://www.amazon.com/BuildTak-Printing-Build-Surface-Square/dp/B00MN5X2YG
No just buildtak
You should try Buildtak. Its a really good surface for printing on PLA. Its all I've used for the past year. Just stick it to your metal surface, then use a paint spatula to remove the raft prints and your set!
https://www.amazon.com/BuildTak-Printing-Build-Surface-Square/dp/B00MN5X304/ref=sr_1_4/146-2708301-0023953?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1505948161&sr=1-4
https://www.amazon.com/Paint-spatula-Glazing-Windows-Painters/dp/B01GKWCNEW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1505948232&sr=8-6&keywords=paint+spatula
Now I just need to find an upper I can afford! Then I can get this thing out to the range.
This is what I was talking about. If people want to give me a few dollars and shipping I can get some and cut them for you, or you can spend the 9 dollars and you'll have enough for 20 rifles.
https://www.amazon.com/BuildTak-Printing-Build-Surface-Square/dp/B00MN5X4RQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473812528&sr=8-2&keywords=buildtak+3d+printing+build+surface
Probably best to just go with a 4.5" square and trim it to fit. The smallest round size they offer is 6.5", which will be way too big.
https://www.amazon.com/BuildTak-Printing-Build-Surface-Square/dp/B00MN5X4RQ
Mine (from Amazon) came with what seems like sandpaper already on the platform. It's very tacky on its own. Otherwise, I've heard BuildTak is good. I have that pack from Amazon but I haven't used it yet.
It does not come with a PEI sheet. They are something else. PEI is a plastic. It works great. https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Printer-Surface-Polyetherimide/dp/B01KBGJU5S/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1486158310&sr=8-5&keywords=pei+sheet
Don't use glue sticks, use nothing or just use hair spray, it's much easier. Both suave and aqua net have worked for me. You also don't need to use windex, just use alcohol, and you don't even have to clean it every time.
Seriously though as great as glass is PEI is just so much easier to deal with. This is the one i have, but you can also buy them from Prusa (which is what I am going to do next time I buy one).
I bought a pei sheet off Amazon and just clamped it on top of the original surface. No need for glue or hairspray or anything like that. It sticks perfectly and when it cools down it pops right off.
Would recommend it to everyone.
Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet, 8" x 8" 3D Printer Build Surface Polyetherimide Ultem https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KBGJU5S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_IA4KofJ8WMGmf
I bought and use this one on mine:
Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet, 10" x 10" 3D Printing Build Surface with 3M 468MP Adhesive Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KGDTNQ2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_OX0jybYDAW5SC
http://imgur.com/pPSn39D
Seems pretty clear, and when it's at temp, nothings is coming off.
I've tried clips with glass. The problem is your printhead and/or cooling fan will hit the clips unless you're really careful. I recommend the silicone thermal pads.
http://3dprinterwiki.info/wiki/wanhao-duplicator-i3/duplicator-i3-basic-mods/adding-a-glass-bed/
I've also tried hairspray on glass, and gluestick on glass, and painter's tape on glass. To hell with all of those, it's always either not sticky enough, or too sticky. Get yourself a sheet of PEI to put on your glass. It's soooooo much better than anything else. Perfect adhesion while printing, then your part just pops off easily when it's done.
Thermal glass $12: https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Printer-Heated-Tempered-Borosilicate/dp/B00QQ5Q3BI
PEI + adhesive $17: https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Printing-Surface-Adhesive/dp/B01KGDTPQK
https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Printing-Surface-Adhesive/dp/B01KGDTPQK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484800825&sr=8-1&keywords=pei+sheet
was it this material?
I ruined the original buildtak sheet by ripping a gash into it with the putty knife. I replaced the original sheet with the supplied secondary sheet, and ruined that one too by using acetone on it. I assumed acetone would melt PLA as it does ABS, but acetone has no effect on PLA - this was the result: http://imgur.com/DqTnXee I have no idea why it turned white like that, and I also ripped more gashes into it desperately trying to scrape the white off. Filament was grey PLA+ from monoprice. Apparently alcohol will ruin the adhesive property of buildtak.
So now I'm using a PEI sheet glued on top of the buildtak, so my settings might not fully apply to you. https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Printing-Surface-Adhesive/dp/B01KGDTPQK/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1493925820&sr=1-1&keywords=PEI+sheet there are 10x10, 8x8, and 12x12
Your issue of 1st layer adhesion is only with the dii3? Then yea its probably cooling off the filament right at the nozzle's tip too fast. I Print at 210C for large prints without any small parts (d&d field tiles) and at 200-205 for prints with small parts/hands/weapons/hairs/spikes etc. As far as I know, I leave both fans at full blast always though. I can't check right now, but I THINK the print cooling fan to the bed is off during initial layers, I'll get back to you when I can check how it acts. I have not touched that fan's settings in cura 15.04 though
Maybe slow your first layer speed down to 15-20 mm/s? I know Slic3r can delve way deeper into customizing settings - maybe you can raise the initial layer and raft/brim temperatures? If you can set the print fan to off/minimal speeds for the first layer and brim/raft, I'd give it a shot.
Bed temp at 55, resolution for prints with no small details: 0.2mm, d&d field tiles: 0.24mm, prints with tiny details (miniature monsters/characters): 0.1mm to 0.08mm. 0.4mm nozzle always at 100% rate, 0.8mm shell. First layer speed 17.5mm/s. Speed @ 0.1mm or less: 35mm/s, speed at 0.2mm or more: 60-70mm/s.
He means like this, adhered to glass, or directly to the heater.
I'd personally recommend glass with hairspray. Best print bed I've gotten yet!
Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet, 8" x 8" 3D Printing Build Surface with 3M 468MP Adhesive Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KGDTPQK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WB3qybRCVC0HD
To increase your chances, make sure you use some quality PLA. The difference is in the chemistry and the quality control. I'm getting some great results with MatterHackers PLA. Pro grade, I think it's called.
Oh haha sorry.[ Gizmo dorks] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01KGDTPQK/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483410646&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65)
I bought the Maker Select V2 a few weeks ago, so I'll give you a dump of what I've bought so far:
MOSFET - You'll also need some 14 gauge wire, spade connectors, and something (like velcro) to mount it inside the case.
PEI Sheet - After going through tape/hairspray/glue this is what you'll end up wishing you started with. I bought some standard window glass from a big box store and had them cut it to size. I used the thermal pads at first, but I prefer just clipping it on. This way I can have 4 different glass beds to swap among.
Raspberry Pi 3 - OctoPrint is so much nicer than transferring the sd card back and forth.
Fan - DiiCooler or CiiCooler or a few others you can print out that are compatible with this fan (I think, I haven't finished printing them yet).
Y carriage plate - Not sure what the difference between this and yours is - I haven't installed mine yet).
MicroSwiss
Also ordered a couple rolls of Inand PLA from MicroCenter online.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01KGDTPQK/
Look into purchasing a PEI (Polythermide) sheet to put onto your printing surface. I did so and it works incredible!
Just make sure that you take your time while applying it to reduce the amount of air bubbles. I picked up this kit from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KGDTPQK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Edit: It takes virtually no maintenance, and everything sticks to it incredibly well. I also forgot to mention that I have only tested it with ABS, but I hear PLA works well too. I have also heard that PETG sticks better than ABS or PLA.
Edit 2: I also should mention that I was able to stick it directly to the aluminum bed. Make sure to clean it really well if you do plan on taking this route.
https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Sheet-Printer-Surface/dp/B074XG1NDM/ref=sr_1_24?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1503416698&sr=1-24&keywords=12%22+pei+sheet
1mm thickness for 19 bucks. a bit cheaper than the other link.
usually gizmodorks sells both the sheet and adhesive together, but they're out of stock.
you'll have to buy a 5 pack of adhesive to go with this.
I love my PEI sheet, at first it was strong enough I had to put my glass in the freezer to remove prints, after a while it dulls a bit, but if you sand it lightly it'll make it grippy again. Also alcohol / acetone wipe down every once in a while helps.
The one I use:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074XJLWL6/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_gSfsDbWX1S36A
I would get some of these to upgrade your print surface. I got them for my printer, and prints stick perfectly Everytime with absolutely no hairspray or tape, just clean it in-between prints.
https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Printer-Surface-Adhesive/dp/B074XJLWL6?adgrpid=61477283172&hvadid=274674964725&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9033692&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t2&hvqmt=e&hvrand=1527745715342828080&hvtargid=kwd-304685224209&keywords=pei+sheets&qid=1535906270&sr=8-1-spons&tag=hydsma-20&ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074XJLWL6
I replaced the old Buildtak bed on my 200x200 RAMPS i3 clone with a GizmoDorks PEI sheet and have been very happy with the results.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B074XJLWL6
At the time of this posting, there's a 10% off coupon (activated by clicking). Different sizes are also available.
PEI is cheap and reliable.
Combine that with magnetic sheets and hey-presto, you got a removable flexible print surface to pop your prints off of
I've been using a sheet of PEI that works like a charm. The one i got was from amazon, something like this would work https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Printer-Surface-Adhesive/dp/B074XLD5QH/ref=pd_sim_328_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=PPGSHY9T4C0YC14V4FVS
It even comes with the adhesive.
It's multiples of 0.04, but it won't have a huge impact.
Regarding hair spray/glue stick etc... a PEI sheet will save you a lot of effort. You put it on top of the glass and then print directly on it, no need to do anything. Edit: and yes, as /u/PuterPro says, get your bed flat.
Mine worked great without having to scuff it at all. I just heat the bed to 60°, when the print is done and the bed cools down the print pops right off. Here is the link to the one I bought.
Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet 12" x 12" (305mm x 305mm) 1mm Thick 3D Printer Build Surface with 3M 468MP Adhesive, Made in The USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074XLD5QH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PVGzCb0HBTC1P
Printed using a FolgerTech FT-5 R2, with Gizmo Dorks PEI build surface. Filament is just basic hatchbox PLA.
get one of these, night and day difference: https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Printer-Surface-Adhesive/dp/B074XLD5QH
The pei sheet I got from amazon (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B074XLD5QH/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_track_package_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1) didn’t have the adhesive pre-applied, it was just smooth on both sides with a thin film over it for protection, and a 3m double sided tape was included in the package. If yours has adhesive already on it, I’m not sure about the temp limit on the film, but suspect you’re right that it isn’t very high.
I had been thinking about just clipping it on before it arrived, but it was thin and flexible enough that I’m pretty sure it would get pulled up slightly by larger prints. I had considered just buying a 1cm thick sheet from McMaster Carr or somewhere rather than one being marketed for 3D printing, I think you could definitely clip that since it would be rigid, but I was concerned if it didn’t show up perfectly flat I wouldn’t be able to do anything about it.
I watched a few videos before putting it on, and it was actually easier than I expected. Even though it has some flex to it, it’s ridged enough that there wasn’t really any issues with bubbles under the pei sheet itself. The adhesive bubbled a little when I put it on the glass, but it wasn’t very hard to either work them out, or in a few cases just poke them with an xacto. The hardest part was actually removing the plastic from the top of the adhesive without peeling the whole thing off the glass, but once done the pei went on nicely. If you’ve seen them mounted before, it’s normal for it to look kind of mottled with some visible pockets of air, but still be flat with no significant bubbles. I checked for flatness and it was good. I will take a picture later and update this so you can see what I mean.
I’m jealous of your 2 backups, I have been afraid to print anything but PLA and be unable to get it off. I ended up with the pei because I kept destroying various stick on surfaces by squishing the first layer of PETG too much and ending up with it welded on.
Not really much you can do wrong, it should give you output saying the values are set after running the
M92command and then after runningM500it should report that it saved the settings to memory. You may need to powercycle afterwards, though.There could also be some flex in the metal bed, you might try a glass bed overlay. Some people get the 5" mirrors from Michael's for $.99, or you can get a nice borosilicate glass bed from Amazon for $12.99.
This one is fulfilled by Amazon, would that be able to get to you?
120mm X 3mm Borosilicate Glass Plate, 3D printer Build Surface, Mini Delta https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075B1R9YZ
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075B1R9YZ/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8
is this also a good option? or are the mirrors better & can you link to a good mirror or will a random mirror at a craft store work?
also the settings in cura im using (ill upload images later today) are the settings that he manual lists. but i downloaded the configuration & put the manual settings into it. is this ok?
I put a glass ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075B1R9YZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) over my bed with clips. Will I get faster heating with the stock pad removed?
I bought this. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075B1R9YZ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you look around amazon or ebay you can often find borosilicate glass in the sizes of various 3d printer build plates.
The auto-leveling seems to compensate. On a cartesian printer you might need to compensate somehow, like adding a shim to make the Z=0 switch trigger sooner. Previously I had used some micro binder clips to hold it down, since I have used some thermal adhesive pad to hold it in place because I got tired of the nozzle bumping clips on larger prints.
I did my modified side panel on glass.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075XJ5ZP1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_4wpGAbJ1YRB7F
Specifically fits the bed for the mpsmv2.
This is the exact piece I bought
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LX3CS6Y/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This one might be a bit better:
https://www.amazon.com/130mm-160mm-Borosilicate-Polished-Corners/dp/B075XJ5ZP1/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1520966311&sr=1-1&keywords=130+borosilicate
It specifically says the dimensions fit the MP Select Mini well, and the cut corners clear the adjustment screws. The biggest problem I have with the piece I bought is that I have to hold it in place with binder clips on the edges. In order to not rub on the printer axis parts, you need to take off the binder clip handles, and in order to clear the print head, you need to move them as far towards the edge as you can. So it's a bit of a pain when they happen to pop off from vibration or hitting the print head. The larger piece I linked should mean you can clip from the front and back instead where mechanical interference isn't a problem.
People will say it's dumb to spend $20 on a print surface for a $200 printer, and that you can get away with a piece of frame glass for $1.50 instead. They're right, but it's a pain, and $220 for a printer with an excellent surface doesn't seem like much of a ripoff to me.
This is what I am using
there is a z-spacer on thingiverse, and a glass plate that fits on amazon
glass bed:
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B075XJ5ZP1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7dVRCbQQP1926
z-spacer:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1808029
For those looking for a glass bed: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075XJ5ZP1/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Borosilicate glass has high heat tolerance and is resistant to rapid heat changes. The one posted here fits perfectly on MPSMv2
I bought the glass off of amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075XJ5ZP1/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm using hairspray on the glass.
with the help of this awesome community, i got this one.... works like a champ..
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075XJ5ZP1/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This actually happens because the air gap between the raft and the print is too big, however, if you make it too small your raft will not come off. I recommend what most people say about a better build surface.
Personally, an 18$ glass build plate from amazon has worked wonders for me, better than any painters tape or buildtak.
I add a generous amount of hairspray and let it heat up to dry.
If you are interested, here is the link to the glass plate:
https://www.amazon.com/BKM-130mm-160mm-Borosilicate-Select/dp/B07BYJQH79/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmrnull_4?crid=26O8O6WR9UIGU&keywords=bkm+130mm+x+160mm%2C+3mm+thick+borosilicate+glass+plate%2C+select+mini&qid=1550989157&s=gateway&sprefix=bkm&sr=8-4-fkmrnull
This is way over expectation, and i think I've been lucky with the Ender 3 i got.
But i'm sure the assembly+bed leveling, profile setting+support, and .stl file used played a big role also.
Everything is link below.
The profile in the download dont have the support in it, you need to copy it manually from the second video.
No upgrade except the glass bed, and the self printed filament guide, chain, clip and fan cover.
https://imgur.com/a/F8okUSc
How To Print Resin-Like FDM Minis on $200+ 3D Printers (Printing The Game #3)
3D Printed Tabletop
https://youtu.be/qDW7g3JOqLA
EASIER Support Settings for 3D Printed Miniatures (Printing The Game #11)
3D Printed Tabletop
https://youtu.be/QaE7YPvh4E8?t=67
Printed Obsession
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-85806
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/printedobsession/hell-hath-no-fury-3d-printable-table-top-miniature/
Creality Ender 3 assembly and pro build tips
Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors
https://youtu.be/me8Qrwh907Q
HATCHBOX 3D PLA-1KG1.75-WHT
https://www.hatchbox3d.com/collections/pla/products/3d-pla-1kg1-75-wht
235mm x 235mm Borosilicate Glass Plate for Creality Ender 3 3D Printer
by GO-3D PRINT
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07D6J92KB/ref=pe_3034960_236394800_TE_dp_1
Filament Guard
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2917932
Cable Chain
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2920060
Board fan guard
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2935204
Display Ribbon Cable Clip
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2880021
borosilicate glass bed and double sided silicon thermal pads., never look back.
I prefer this glass bed rather than plain borosilicate. A spare hot end is a very good idea. When I first started I was trashing a hot end about once a week because I was not setting up them correctly and using wet filament.
My experience with the default extruder design is that I could never keep one running more than a couple of weeks before it would start skipping steps badly. BMG extruders made the biggest difference in my prints. I'm experimenting with the TriangleLabs clone on my new Cube and another clone on one of my Enders that ate the BMG.
CCTREE Tempered Glass Plate for Creality Ender 3
I did the Capricorn tubing but went with a ultrabase vs doing Boro glass + PEI. I have no complaints with it after 2000+ hours of prints on it https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F6CLTD7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I recently turned up the temps a bit because I was having first layer going down badly, but I think I over did it a bit and it's giving me a bit of stringing. Other slicer settings tried changing:
The thing that's been driving me a bit crazy is getting the front of the boat there to have a nice smooth surface. The surface didn't really seem to change that much with the reduced jerk / acceleration. What are some things I can try changing to help improve the print?
I had a problem somewhat similar at times. My ender 3's bed was a bit warped. The buildtak surface worked well (never used tape) but yes, prints were a bit difficult to get off without scraping and damaging myself or the bed surface sometimes. So i bought this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F6CLTD7/
And it has changed everything. As long as you get the bed heated up to 60 degrees (and let it sit for a short bit to make sure the actual glass is that temp) you will get fantastic, flat, first layers. And prints that pop off on their own once the glass cools down. Warning, make sure the nozzle doesn't scratch the glass and don't use sharp spatulas on it. I bought these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075SLTY8B and they work perfectly. Thin, not sharp, flexible, pops things off no problem, even if the bed isn't cooled down.
Hold the glass to the bed with some tiny binder clips. Just make sure the print head doesn't run into the clips and you're good. I ended up changing out the cooling set up so that i had a thinner profile around the extruder to make sure i lost less print area due to the clips. I printed this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2911981 and like it, but there are many other fang style ones out there.
For leveling i use a piece of printer paper, folded over. Took calipers to it and it's about .2mm in that set up and i level just so the nozzle scratches the paper (not holds it) and that seems to work for me.
Not sure if it's the same but mine is the CCTREE Upgraded 3D Printer Platform Heated Bed Build Surface Tempered Glass Plate for Creality Ender 3/Ender 3 Pro 3D Printer 235x235x4mm.
EDIT: ...which is 4mm thick apparently.
I absolutely must recommend a PEI sheet for printing ABS. It's the best printing surface I've used for being able to print ABS without having issues with the print tending to pull off the surface. I was using glass which is great for PLA, but even with hairspray, I was having issues with small areas of ABS pulling up somewhat regularly. Because it's a stiff sheet, it's easier to apply than tape without worrying about air bubbles. I still recommend having a boro glass plate as it's good for ensuring your bed is perfectly flat. Links below.
PEI Sheet: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FVQJ7QK/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_GC2lDb0FXF07W
Borosilicate Glass: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LFOI2VS/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_vD2lDb92XDS8T
Also, just FYI, if you plan on printing any part upgrades for your printer, especially if you plan on using cable chains, keep in mind that ABS prints pretty much require the use of an enclosure to keep the temperature stable and warm. PLA has a tendency of deforming when even only slightly warm and I had a number of issues when I first started using a cabinet as a result. You'll want to print your part upgrades in ABS so as to maintain rigidity in a warm enclosure. You can always start with PLA and later upgrade the parts to ABS, but keep this in mind if/when you move to filaments that require a warmer print environment.
And above all, upgrade your firmware to ensure you have some minimum safety features. I nearly had a fire early on with mine when my hotend thermal probe was accidentally pulled out during a print causing it to have a thermal runaway.
For the bed, I did a removable bed plate from here:
https://www.printfab3d.com/product/profab-removable-flex-bed-system/
For the actual print surface I did choose PEI:
Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FVQJ7QK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I did a Noctura 40mm silent fan for the board
I used Capricorn brand bowden tube
I used an genuine E3DLite from Filastruder
Currently I am putting in a Titan extruded clone as well as MKS Base 1.6 board with Pi and bed MOSFET inside.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FVQJ7QK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IYxZCbFJJBGK3
This is the exact one i got from amazon, comes with an adhezive side, pretty easy to apply, and it seriously made a massive difference with adhesion.
I got you fam. Amazon!
This is what I use, installed on Day 1. Never had a problem with bed adhesion printing at 65, in fact it often sticks too much!
I bought a regular glass bed off amazon and really liked that but the textured surface started to fail after a while and I didn't like having to clean off adhesives or hairspray. I got this PEI build surface from amazon and stuck that on top of it. The ender 3 pro's magnetic bed base is enough to keep the glass in place and the PEI sheet has adhesive on the bottom of it so I don't need to use the binder clips like I thought I would have to at first. It all just stays in place without shifting and I have access to the full print bed. The glass is still on there to correct a warp in the base bed and the PEI is honestly such an upgrade from glass. Things stick with no effort and come off easily at the end, except PETG which sticks like nobody's business and is harder to remove.
I'd recommend glass, some binder clips to hold it to the bed, Elmer's purple glue sticks for adhesion, a heat gun if you live somewhere like the South and it takes forfuckingever for things like glue stick to dry (I don't have this exact one but I'm sure it'll work just fine), and a spray bottle of water and squeegee to clean all of that off every few of prints.
Also as everyone else suggested, a Pi 3 for Octopi. I'm using a 32 GB microSD that I had laying around. Just send prints from Cura to Octopi! A camera is pretty cool for time lapse shots too! I'm pretty sure this is the one I've been using, but I really don't like the one mount I've found for it so I'm going to switch to my Logitech C615 after my daughter goes to bed and I can fuck around with my setup... ;P
Its a great printer. Upgrade your springs and get an aluminum extruder. Those two things were so cheap, but definitely made a difference for me. I use a glass bed with a PEI sheet and have been very happy with it. I use eSun PLA Pro for my minis. Check out Tomb of 3d Printed Horros for their cura profiles and tips!
https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Preapplied-Laminated-Adhesive/dp/B07GSJSDWR/ref=asc_df_B07GSJSDWR/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312163444503&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3399292976891203176&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001880&hvtargid=aud-801657747996:pla-584394961083&psc=1
Mine came with 3m already on the backing so I just had to carefully apply it to the glass.
Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GSJSDWR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I struggled with adhesion for the first couple weeks of printing. Then I swapped my stock bed for a glass + PEI combo. Got the flatness of the glass + the adhesion of the PEI. Once the plate cools down a few degrees, the parts come right off. No need for sticky hairspray to get things to stick, and no need to put the bed in the freezer to get things to unstick. Best upgrade I’ve made on my ender 3 (~$30 total). Always wipe down with isopropyl alcohol in between prints for best adhesion.
Tip: I also recommend gently wet sanding the PEI. Helps with adhesion and creates a very nice matte finish on the first layer.
Glass Bed:
Nearly Natural 4855 35in.... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JKGNB6W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
PEI:
Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GSJSDWR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
The problem is that people still refer to information from 10 years ago in regards to 3d printing and wont let go of it. Hairspray and glue stick are one of those ideas that needs to be buried.
Buy some PEI
https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Preapplied-Laminated-Adhesive/dp/B07GSJSDWR/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=pei&qid=1574003872&sr=8-5
and apply this to your glass. Then just wipe it with isopropyl once and a while.
Then the only time you will use gluestick is when you want less adhesion. To give you an idea, I can turn on my heated bed and get old prints to stick again.
I recommend a PEI sheet
Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet 3D Printer Build Surface 235mm x 235mm (9.3" x 9.3") with Preapplied Laminated 3M 468MP Adhesive for Creality Ender 3 or CR 20 | Made in The USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GSJSDWR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FVfVCb8Q5VK3N
Hey I also new on this, got my printer a month ago, I was super exited as everyone here when receive their printer, I read a LOT while waiting for the printer, so I heard that the stock bed springs are crappy, so I ordered this ones FYSETC Bed springs, also ordered the Aluminium Extruder feeder, and read about the leveling, the paper sheath method, which I think you should already heard about, I did it at the first time the printer gave me a nearly perfect first print (demo dog) , after a few prints and on my third print I came home just to find a mess on my printer, so I did my research again, find out it was bed adhesion, and find out that the best way was glass bed + PEI sheet was the best option, while waiting to arrive I tried to clean the stock bed sheet with mineral spirits (did have rubbing alcohol) but it worsened the adhesion, so I used one adhesion sticker that comes with the overture filament, and again flawless adhesion, at least for the first 4 prints, then again the frustration, I tried some glue stick and worked but it leaves a mess on your print so I decided to try painters tape directly onto the aluminum bed (which lucky for me it is perfectly flat) this is the best adhesion I have tried, problem is also makes a mess with the down face of the print, Finally mi Gass-PEI arrived, (3 days ago), it has a great adhesion but is not perfect, also you have to raise the Z limit switch to compensate the 5~ mm of Glass-PEI, find out that it isn't perfectly flat it has a good adhesion and leaves a very smooth down face, but at some section it does't sticks well and leaves artifacts on the down face, I'm currently working to fix this.
Sorry for the long post, need to talk about my frustration and let you know you are not alone on this, once you manage to make a good print is very satisfying, I have a PETG filament waiting to be used but I don't think is a great idea to try it until a learn more about 3D printing and the Ender.
Flex steel plate is the answer overall. I have a number of printers with them. WhamBam or these from Amazon
Eryone Upgrade 3D Printer Platform, Maflex Magnetic Flexible Heated Bed with Sticker for 3D Printer 235235mm Transparent PEI https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q3XVGZT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lY44CbYK6CD9R
Yep, just got this glass bed since the stock bed was lower in the middle on mine. Works great, no more leveling issues. I still have the stock springs though, they seems to work for me but I haven't printed much yet to see how long they hold.
Hey! I got the same printer and was using ABS for my first couple prints. Couple things--First the built in items on the SD card are sliced for PLA printing, so you need to up the temps on the extruder and bed--I had success just upping it to 240/80. This got it to stick, but I had to get my z positioning (the thumb wheels on the corners) just right. Also I absolutely needed a raft for anything to really stick.
If you're slicing your own items in Cura, the default filament size is 2.8mm and you're probably using 1.75mm filament.
Unfortunately on any prints longer than an hour the ABS would start to curl off the bed--I chalked that up to the somewhat breezy room I have my printer set up in currently.
tl;dr Make sure your bed/z is leveled precisely so that a piece of standard printer paper can slide underneath the nozzle in each corner with resistance. Try upping your temps and checking your slicer settings as well.
/u/Redditull mentioned a glass bed. I picked one up on amazon, this fits the bed pretty nicely (just lays between the corner screws)--you do need to raise your z-stop, there's a metal lever contraption screwed into one of the sides of your printer's frame that you need to unscrew and raise. I also attached a PEI sheet to this and I used thermal pads to attach all this to the bed. This all improves adhesion greatly, I've mostly been using PLA after the difficulties I had but I would imagine ABS would stick just fine as well.
Borosilicate Glass
PEI Sheet
Thermal Sheet
Glass will make the bed flat but not level. You still have to do that part. It will be much easier to level and require less frequent adjustments though. There are pre-cut pieces of borosilicate for the mini
Some other things I'd recommend
TL-Smoothers https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WG3SZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I know you already upgraded the extruder assembly but this duel geared version is nice: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SY745CF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
PEI Bed surface (has to date been the best upgrade): https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GSJSDWR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and if you don't have a glass: https://smile.amazon.com/Creality-Ender-Glass-Upgraded-235x235x4mm/dp/B07RD6D2ZQ/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=creality+glass&qid=1571456745&sr=8-5
I'd recommend applying the pei in the smooth side of the glass that way you can flip it over to have the textured side if you want.