(Part 2) Best 3d printing supplies according to redditors

This stuff from CC3D.

TO EVERYONE TRYING TO SHRED OP FOR USING “PLA”:

PLA+ is not the same as PLA, and in some cases, such as eSUN, it is far superior in strength due to its enhanced layer adhesion.

If you’ve never printed with eSUN PLA+, I highly suggest you go grab a spool off of Amazon or your local Micro Center and try it out. Their filament will defy everything you think you know about PLA (except for its ease of use to print).

Edit: here’s a direct Amazon link to eSUN Black PLA+ ($23 USD): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EKEMDA6

 

Thingiverse

 

Prusa Multi-Material!

We're having a LAN party so...I decided to cut up an existing heartstone model from thingiverse for multi-material.

I'll upload the model to thingiverse later today for my fellow nerds/geeks.

 

Images

 

Print time: 35hrs

Detail: .15mm

Filament:

Stone

Blue

 

The stone filament worked, surprisingly, great with the multi-material. Multi-material is insanely picky about filament quality so I'm pretty happy with the outcome. The first print I tried had some bleeding with the blue, so I increased the wipe tower a bit, which solved the issue.

After months of fighting with the MMU, I think I've finally got it tuned in...knocks on wood.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HYYPLT4/
I just started printing with this and it prints a very good red.

example: http://i.imgur.com/11Luucw.jpg

The filament on the left is https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0YDF3U/. I didn't intend to come here to throw dirt, so I prefer not to say what the filament on the right is.

• Temperatura on the left is 210ºC, on the right I followed the sticker on the spool. I tried 210, 220, and ultimately beyond the temperature range given at 230. It's not that it won't extrude -- it won't do it consistently.
  
• Both prints were done at 0.2mm 30mm/s.
  
• Retraction is 3.5mm at 50mm/s, but that's going to depend on your setup (direct drive vs bowden, length of bowden tube, extruder, etc).
  
• 2 perimeter outlines -- inside loop first
  
• 30% infill
  
• I have a blower fan as a part fan which has some good flow so I only put it to 30% speed after the third layer on both prints.
  
• 1 skirt outline at 1mm from the part (just to prime the nozzle on my bowden)
  
• First layer underspeed at 50% and 120% extrusion width and height which seemed to be too much on the white plastic, actually
  
• 3 100% infill layers top and bottom
  
  I use Simplify3D for slicing and it has way more settings than I can think to list -- if you want to know any other settings, just ask. Edit: add formatting for the list
  
  Reposting my comment -- didn't realize that this subreddit doesn't like shortened links.

SILK PLA is amazing. it DOES have serious issues. the stuff is crazy strong but very very poorly sticks to itself (brittle layer adhesion) Print it hot 220c higher if the plastic behaves for you.

so thin parts? forget it. your not likely to get it off the bed without cracking it (use ultra base)

and even 3 perimeter 25% infill grid parts can "snap" if the nozzles catches an edge (broke my adalinda dragon a few times) and if you drop it it will break.

BUT the results are simply stunning.

Here are some links (gold is not in stock that I can find right now) these are direct non affiliate links. if you want to help me out goto todays3dprint.com and use any of the links their (and then these links) but you don't have to.

Silver (I have not tried this one but they all print the same)

https://www.amazon.com/Silk-Silver-Filament-Printing-Material/dp/B06XSBFB17

Copper
https://www.amazon.com/Silk-Copper-Filament-Printing-Material/dp/B0761PMW3X

if this one was prime I would be ordering one as it looks VERY nice.

These from 3d Solutech are dirt cheap and some of my favorites! I have printed with all of them except the lavendar. I have it just have not used it yet in a print.

They call them "ultra pla"

Yellow

https://www.amazon.com/3D-Solutech-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B01B5KACX8

sample print Drogon

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ImOW0N1LNSA

Blue (my favorite)

https://www.amazon.com/3D-Solutech-3DSUPLA175BLU

Sample Print Adalinda (75 hour print truly stunning)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZV0LTx-MlY&t

Green (out of stock right now)

https://www.amazon.com/3D-Solutech-3DSUPLA175GRN-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B01B5KPNUK

Sample Print. Aria Dragon (another truly stunning model)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3g-5oyVsyRA

White

https://www.amazon.com/3D-Solutech-3DSUPLA175WHT-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B01B5KFRHO

Sample Print (Loubie Swan)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DOavv-K-mYw

Red (really pink I have yet to find a true RED silk they all come out pink)

https://www.amazon.com/3D-Solutech-3DSUPLA175HPK-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B01B5LIL58

Sample Print (faceted Tree)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZbuFM0UUo2c&t=100s

Here is the GOLD I used (sample print squirrel)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DOavv-K-mYw&t=420s

but its not available right now (not sure if it is coming back or not)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XRPYXP2

again. its a PAIN IN THE ASS filament but damn are the results incredible. worth the suffering :-)

again the links are "clear" direct links. if you want to help me visit one of the links to amazon in my videos first which will help me out. or use the direct links here if not.

in general search for "ultra" or "silk" PLA.

Poly Alchemy ALSO makes some disgustingly gorgeous SILK PLA's !! check out Night Shade and Night Sky in particular to be truly awestruck with the beauty of these filaments

Here are some higher resolution images of some of these filaments

Poly Alchemy Night Shade (stunning and dark)
https://i.imgur.com/tyMb4Xn.jpg Another
https://i.imgur.com/fphprtA.jpg

Poly Alchemy Night Sky (I love this one)
https://i.imgur.com/BWv59dv.jpg Another
https://i.imgur.com/9zz93el.jpg

Poly Alchemy Bubble Gum
https://i.imgur.com/6WyaMIY.jpg

Elixr is NOT CHEAP $30 for 750 grams or something like that. (its around $50 a kilo)

in the US Printedsolid.com sells it.

3D Solutech Ultra Green
https://i.imgur.com/5n7nQZx.jpg

As you might be able to tell I REALLY like these plastics :-)

Actually no, thats not how it works at all. Not for desktop printers at least.

You've got rolls of strands of ABS and PLA like this: http://www.amazon.com/Octave-1-75mm-Filament-MakerBot-Printer/dp/B0083HSPH2 Not pellets. It is possible to re-use PLA, but you have to have the right equipment to melt it back down into a usable form again.

Printer - $200

Plastic - $23

Some software (browse around and torrent) and trial/error and you too can be printing whatever your freedom-loving heart desires. And thats just from banging around on Amazon. You can do better (read: cheaper) on one of the Chinese sites. Alibaba or Gearbest or whogivesafuck.com you can probably put in for less than $200 all told.

Great thing is the only thing you need to re-up is the cheap ass plastic. The printer should last you longer than your imagination.
Just save $20 a paycheck and by Christmas you'll have yourself a nice gift.

Not sure if this is what you are looking for but I just bought this a few days ago. I haven’t printed with you yet but it looks pretty awesome in person.

Amazon Shiny Silk Rainbow

Just thought I'd throw in my 2 cents. My very favorite filament ever is eSun PLA+. It is the easiest, nicest, most forgiving filament I've ever printed. I find 215C is the perfect temperature, along with a 50C bed.

PLA+ is like a hybrid of PLA and ABS, with the best properties of both. Like higher strength, no smell, easy to print, etc. Plus you can refill the empty spools by buying just the filament. The refills aren't always in stock, but it's cheaper, fun, and I hate throwing away empty spools. It feels dirty, lol.

Here's a link for ya: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EKEMDA6/

Slicer Program: Cura 3.5.1

Filament: PLA Hatchbox Grey 1.75mm

Nozzle: Stock nozzle which I think is .4mm?

Supports: I used the Cura supports for this one, I might print another one and test how the Meshmixer supports work, but these images are right after I removed the supports and no sanding/filing has been done yet.

Misc:
-Printed at a 15 degree angle facing upwards to avoid any marks on the front of it

-Profile I found from this video, where he goes over the profile.
-Here is the link to the profile downloads if anyone wanted.

Edit: switch temps around

• Bed plate temp: 60
  
• Extruder temp: 200
  
  
  As for any upgrades, all I’ve done so far is a fan cover so stuff doesn’t fall into it and a filament guide, otherwise everything else is factory default

Did you say bronze? Here chew go...

https://amazon.com/Bronze-Filament-Printer-Printing-Material/dp/B07FCC3TJG

https://amazon.com/Antique-Filament-Printing-Material-metaiilic/dp/B07JYWXVFW

It's 3D Solutech Teal Blue 3D Printer PLA Filament 1.75MM Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, 2.2 LBS (1.0KG) - 100% USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PF7GNPO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jmaNBbT7N124E

First: That filament is on amazon for a couple bucks less:

https://smile.amazon.com/Filabot-T6451-Taulman-Nylon-Filament/dp/B00TOOBUA2/

Second, I'd ask your sister for more information on what printer he has. But I'll make a few wild speculations based on the filament linked and the brief description.

Hobbyist, 1.75 mm nylon, possibly no heated bed, probably 0.4 mm nozzle,

https://smile.amazon.com/0-4mm-MakerBot-Printer-Nozzle-Cleaning/dp/B00MQKW230/ - Good for cleaning 0.4 mm nozzles

https://smile.amazon.com/HATCHBOX-3D-Filament-Dimension-Accuracy/dp/B01DWMMJTW/ - Everybody wants to try GitD at least once. Some people have shown that printing with it can reduce the lifetime of the nozzle.

https://smile.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Printer-Filament-1-75mm/dp/B018MG4SFQ/ - same thing with wood filament

https://smile.amazon.com/10-100pcs-Neodymium-Strong-Magnets-MarbellStore/dp/B01LYFG2F3 - You can usually find a reason to throw a magnet inside a 3D print. This particular one won't ship before Christmas, but you can probably find some locally.

https://www.adafruit.com/products/3055 - Raspberry Pi can always be thrown into a project of some sort.

-----

Finally, some older links:

https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/22hh2q/i_have_a_rostock_kit_on_the_waywhat_accessories/

https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/3u3v3h/3d_printing_holiday_gift_guide_what_3d_printers/

https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/3bmpam/what_accessories_should_every_3d_printing_maker/

https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/3w1r7q/just_bought_a_printer_heres_a_list_of_the_tools/

STL: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3345027

Filament: Manic Panic Ultra Violet Purple... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M89JTXS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Egloo and anycubic brands, Amazon and anycubic site
ELEGOO https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FCLLNFY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8tz1DbY8QX22B

Printed it with color changing PLA (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B074T8TGL5) so she spent about half an hour running it under warm and cold water making it change color from pink to purple. :-)

Are you interested in color-changing filaments? I haven't had any experience with these, but I certainly plan to get my hands on a roll at some point.

Glow in the dark

Thermochromic

Another thermochromic

I've been having some fun with this Shiny Silk Multicolor Rainbow PLA Filament. I use 220/60 at 45mm/s with it. It says "fast changing" color shift but I've found that to not be true depending on what you are printing.

Yeti coozie extender printed one at a time got me two layers Pic

When printed 4 at a time I got more layers and a better rainbow effect Pic

Vase Pic

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Printer-Filament-1-75mm/dp/B018MG4SFQ

Thanks. I have replaced so many parts it's not funny. I also have a slide drawer I made for it. https://i.imgur.com/M4iRDdX.jpg

Check this out at Amazon.com
3D Printer Filament 1.75mm PLA Shiny Silk Multicolor Rainbow - TTYT3D 1KG 2.2lbs Spool Widely Compatible for 3D Printing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M89JTXS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_fFWsDb8S5RWDC


I believe this is the filament. But it's very slow to change. That's why I used heavy infill just to eat up filament.

Sorry guys.... Its $20 now =( prints pretty good though. Ill post link to the object file when i leave work.

Silk Green Bronze PLA Filament 1.75mm 3D Printer Filament 1KG (2.2LBS) Printing Materials Bronze Shine Silky Shiny Bronze Metallic Metal Look Silk Like CC3D Also Silk Gold Silver Copper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FCC3TJG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RzuxDbP7MT3F8

it is cheap depending how you look at it, you can get a abs filament spool for about $30, which would print well over 100 key caps probably, but that's if you have your own 3d printer and can print it yourself.

also that's not including the cost of your time that it would take to model it and print it, and you would either have to "engrave" the graphic or come up with some other way to apply it on to the key cap

I recently got this and loved it. It's dirt cheap and looks great. No complaints from me.

Stronghero3D - Bronze Rainbow Multicolor
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HJB3C9Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_j8RDDbJ3YAQF9

Here ya go: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PF7GNPO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_tZRUejCTXsSTE

$25 very reasonable. This part will be done printing in about 7 hours or so. I will get a nice video when it’s done printing it’s kinda hard with it moving around


Silk Silver PLA 1.75mm 3D Printer Filament 1KG (2.2LBS) Printing Materials Silky Shiny PLA Metal Silver Like CC3D https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XSBFB17/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XCTvCbPBD2PDY

Looks similar to these two 3D Solutech filaments, both in color and how its spread and uniformity behavior is. These are a bit softer of a blend than normal PLA, the parts are more flexible and generally stronger/less brittle as a result. It's definitely a lot better for living hinges than the garden variety PLA.

https://www.amazon.com/3D-Solutech-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B00ME7CKOG/

https://www.amazon.com/3D-Solutech-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B00PF7GNPO/

https://www.amazon.ca/1-75mm-Wood-PLA-Printer-Filament/dp/B01CXAGHOM/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=amz3d+wood+pla&qid=1559068463&s=gateway&sr=8-1

I'm a huge fan of the silk copper/bronze filaments. Silk gold is pretty good too but when people look at prints with those silk copper or bronze they more often ask if they're actual metal.

https://www.amazon.com/Bronze-Filament-Printer-Printing-Material/dp/B07FCC3TJG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537377823&sr=8-3&keywords=silk+bronze+filament

https://www.amazon.com/Silk-Copper-Filament-Printing-Material/dp/B0761PMW3X/ref=pd_bxgy_328_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0761PMW3X&pd_rd_r=c5eff776-bc30-11e8-85dd-873fcc9bd247&pd_rd_w=mfPAa&pd_rd_wg=SPizH&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=6725dbd6-9917-451d-beba-16af7874e407&pf_rd_r=FY9NVDFGYTQ7G7B53M61&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=FY9NVDFGYTQ7G7B53M61

Had some kindles I hacked to use as photo displays, so made a couple of frames for them.

Printed with:

• Anet A8 lookalike with 0.4 Micro Swiss hardened nozzle
  
• Amz3D wood filament
  
• Temps were 200C nozzle/55C bed
  
• Some really low number for infill (like 5% or something)

You should absolutely buy some filament to get started. It comes with enough PLA filament to do a test print but not much else. Search amazon for 1.75mm PLA filament in any colors you want. I recommend this just to get started with a few options. https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Filament-Printers-1-75mm/dp/B074W1XFRX/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=gizmo+dorks+pla&qid=1573154441&sr=8-3


Also you will probably want a hobbyist exacto knife set, a deburring tool, and sandpaper to work with.

Please try our filament. Thanks. Right now, beige and natural only 15.99. https://www.amazon.com/1-75mm-Black-PLA-Printer-Filament/dp/B01BZ5ND8O/ref=lp_14589172011_1_1?srs=14589172011&ie=UTF8&qid=1502386015&sr=8-1

haha, well you can always print in rainbow

LOTS O EDITS

Way to effing many. Super frustrated with the Ender 3. I was not looking for this much frustration when I started my new hobby.

Incoming Rant:

1. The hex screws. So easy to strip, even with the supplied hex keys. Let me repeat this: SO EFFING EASY TO STRIP. I had to use a dremel to cut notches in them to actually get them to tighten, or to loosen to install the steppers. (which are really nice btw)
   
   
2. Very VERY Finecky with filament. See Below.
   
   I have a lot of good luck with Gizmodorks filament. The orange one is great. But the other various colors I got I am having issues with. (Too thin laying down??)
   
   I also bought a thing of Hatchbox And the first roll was fine but this second roll is just not working. I wondering if the filament is too big somehow.
   
   I also bought this from Th3dstudio's... and I still can not get it to work properly. I followed the instructions, and it is like it is not detecting the sensor at all, when I try to run the auto home it tries to go through my bed...So I will be trying to get it to work again during the x-mas holidays.
   

Built one last week:

You don't need anything but what the printer comes with. However, there are things that make it much easier:

• 2.5, 2.0, 1.5mm ball-end hex (Allen) screwdrivers for most of the screws. I have a set of Wihas, and they're awesome. You'll want a dedicated 2.5mm for your printer.
  
• 5.5mm hex nut driver for the nylock nuts (again, Wiha makes awesome tools)
  
• Small side-cutting snips for zip ties
  
• Small screw clamp or large pliers for seating captive nuts
  
• Extremely well-lit work area, headlamp, or portable light. When you get to the electronics steps, I don't think there is an orientation where the printer doesn't cast shadows into the enclosure.
  
  Once printing, there are some things you'll want:
  
  
• SD card reader (printer takes full-size cards)
  
• Extra SD cards (so you can slice and prep your next print while your other card is in the printer)
  
• Filament a little more exciting than the included silver. I recommend Hatchbox from Amazon. Everything but their Red seems to print amazing with the included "Generic PLA" profile in Slic3r PE.
  
  Some things I messed up:
  
  
• Use the online instructions
  
• The online instructions have comments at the end of each section--which are easily visible--and after each step, which requires a click to show. Read both before starting any section. Re-read those for each step before that step.
  
• Read the entire step of instructions all the way through before beginning
  
• Don't use a ball-end hex (Allen) wrench for the extruder gear set screws. The sockets aren't deep enough for a ball-end to tighten. It will feel tight, but not be tight, and you will get extrusion issues.
  
• When you finish up the hot end, all your wires need to be extremely tight to the assembly and not sticking out--especially to the left or right. The printer calibrates by "feel" and if there is any resistance caused by wires at the end of your X travel, the self-test won't pass.
  
• Seriously, just ignore the feet until it's passed a self-test. Then, make your third print a set of these: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2796596
  
• Once you pass a self-test and have a successful first print, flash the newest firmware. It has working filament detection and some other nice features.
  
  Honestly, it's going to be a long process. I suggest you plan on breaking it up over a few days if you can resist the urge to plow through. Take a 30-40 minute break after each section at least.
  
  You're also going to get more and more unsure as the process progresses. Have faith in the instructions, and comfort yourself that the printer won't do anything until a self-check is passed at the end. If you take a bit of time and have a little patience, your first print is going to feel amazing.

My first couple rolls were Monoprice's MP Select PLA+, which is about $20/kg and often on slight discount. Pretty good stuff.

I've tried Inland PLA, which is Available on Amazon or locally if you're near a Microcenter.. It's made by eSun. $15/kg with prime shipping. It's pretty much fine, though a little touchier about temperatures, and it's a little more brittle. The different colors also seem to need slightly different settings, especially black.

I've pretty much standardized on eSun's PLA+. Just a little more expensive at $22-$23/kg, but less brittle.

Any of them would be a fine first PLA. The prints have turned out great with all three, and I still rotate through them, as I have some colors in from Monoprice and Microcenter that I don't have in eSun. Reports vary (google "Inland eSun PLA" for a sampling), so some of this may also be confirmation bias. I don't regret purchasing any of the above.

If you want a few rolls of different colors this is a pretty good deal, 23 bucks for 4 colors... Downside is you get 800g instead of 1000g for the money. Still good if you want multiple colors without breaking the bank 👍 I've had real good luck with this brand

Gizmo Dorks PLA Filament for 3D Printers 1.75mm 200g, 4 Color Pack - Blue, Green, Orange, Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074W1XFRX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AbKjDbY1A0WKD

Hatchbox Gray PLA

Stronghero3D 3D Printing PLA... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HJB3C9Z?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Link for the Filament.

There’s also this one for 50% off but I am not sure how much I like the “bronze” multicolor.

Kinda looks like when you were a kid and mixed all the different sodas together and it just becomes brown lol.

Stronghero3D 3D Printing PLA Filament 1.75mm Bronze Rainbow Multicolors Net Weight 1KG Accuracy +/-0.05mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HJB3C9Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fdqqDbQ8NXZ1E

I think they mean "silk" filaments such as this: https://www.amazon.com/Silk-Silver-Filament-Printting-Materials/dp/B06XSBFB17

3D Mars White

$4.80 sample: https://www.amazon.com/3D-Printing-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B01N5Q7DJJ/

$19 for 1.2kg: https://www.amazon.com/3D-MARS-Printing-Filament-Dimensional/dp/B01N0YDF3U/

https://www.amazon.ca/1-75mm-Wood-PLA-Printer-Filament/dp/B01CXAGHOM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494774053&sr=8-1&keywords=wood+filament
I use amz3d they seem pretty alright. Never used there wood though. But all great reviews. MG Chem is a bit cheaper if you get the half kg and I've used there red pla and it seems to be very good, again i never tried there wood though.
https://www.amazon.ca/MG-Chemicals-Printer-Filament-1-75mm/dp/B018MG4SFQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1494774053&sr=8-4&keywords=wood+filament

Sorry.

Hatchbox yellow
HATCHBOX PLA 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, 1 kg Spool, 1.75 mm, Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J0GRREW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0AiwCbF2GTDNQ

These are what I've bought and work great. 200g of each color on spools.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074W1XFRX

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074W2TNKB

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QD2ZQ7R

Other vendors have sets with silk colors, wood, etc but I haven't tried them to recommend yet. I've been happy with these.

I haven't seen these mentioned in this sub before, but I ordered a couple Gizmo Dorks packs from Amazon when I first got my Ender 3 Pro:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074W1XFRX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074W2TNKB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

It's a little more expensive by weight, but it's a good way to get a bunch of different colors.

I like the magnet surface that comes with the pro, I haven't had any issues with parts sticking.

I also ordered the aluminum kit you did, and I also ordered some replacement springs for the bed. I'm planning on installing them this weekend.

The amz3d PLA is great and cheaper than hatchbox.

I tried it out when Hatchbox was out of stock on black for a week or so. It works great and I've gone through 2 spools without issue. I've actually switched to their brand and have white, red, yellow, and grey. All are good.

$17.99 with prime shipping (if you're in the US). Not exactly rock bottom but a good mix of price and quality. Claims .03mm accuracy vs Hatchbox's .05 and I've never measured over 1.78mm when testing with calipers.

1.75mm Black PLA 3D Printer Filament - 1kg Spool (2.2 lbs) - Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03mm
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BZ5ND8O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_tGbCzbD6YM42N

HATCHBOX PLA 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, 1 kg Spool, 1.75 mm, Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J0GO8I0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FWCMBbP5V8G8H

HATCHBOX PLA 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, 1 kg Spool, 1.75 mm, Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J0GPC80/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XXCMBbGAYCBC9

HATCHBOX PLA 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, 1 kg Spool, 1.75 mm, Orange https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J0EE1D4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dYCMBbS2R4SC0

HATCHBOX PLA 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, 1 kg Spool, 1.75 mm, Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J0GRREW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rYCMBbCXR8SPH


And alot
More just loook around

Yeah if its moisture you can bake at a very low temp for a long time to fix it. But a new roll is $15-20. Actually if you don't use a lot, buy AIO Robotics half rolls. They are great quality and since they are half rolls you will have a fresh roll more often. https://www.amazon.com/AIO-Robotics-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B01HYYPLT4/ref=sr_1_cc_4?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1494253409&sr=1-4-catcorr&keywords=AIO+Robotics

This one - Stronghero3D https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HJB3C9Z

Overture black and clear PETG is $10.99 https://smile.amazon.com/OVERTURE-Filament-Consumables-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B07PGYHYV8

I'm planning on ordering a spool of this. Multi-color and silk. Can't wait to try it out.

This stuff?

https://www.amazon.com/3D-MARS-Printing-Filament-Dimensional/dp/B01N0YDF3U

Seems like a great deal, how is it?

That's strange. I'm in the Netherlands and many items from the german amazon store do ship abroad, especially those marked with "prime".

Hatchbox PLA is ~19 euros, so you might want to order 2 or more rolls to get the 30 euro free shipping.

For example I have these two rolls on the way now:

https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B015I1CYFE/
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B014VM95EY/

EDIT: one of them is PETG by the way, so take care not to order the wrong thing.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074T8TGL5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

this was mine at least, not sure if his is teh same brand but it looks like it. it prints really nicely honestly. I've had zero issues with it.

Doesn't directly address your question, but I just printed this last night with some wood filament off amazon.ca using the stock nozzle:

• http://tinyimg.io/i/X6gbXue.jpg (independent pieces)
  
• http://tinyimg.io/i/wVg6Rvw.jpg (inner cylinder inserted into outer cylinder)
  
• http://tinyimg.io/i/0QJHVGM.jpg (close up)
  
  Note that the cylinder on the left has been sanded lightly so that it slides/twists inside the outer cylinder more easily - which is visually quite obvious.
  
  FWIW, I did get a jam/kink in the brass quick connect tube fitting the first time I tried this filament, but I have this problem regularly with other filaments as well.
  
  Model source: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/squircle-twist-container-30754

This is what I got:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B015I1CYFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Try some of the silk metallic filaments - like this one. It is greenish, but really shiny. It is the best metallic of all the ones I have tried. It prints very easily for me.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FCC3TJG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the link to the pla: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01HYYPLT4?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title
Nylon is a really good choice for high temperature applications, but it is a little bit flexible, so watch out for that. The only other thing I could think of is a high temperature pla, or a petg filament ( stuff used in water bottles).

I'm in Canada as well. I have been using the AMZ3D PLA off of Amazon. I have 8 differnet colors and haven't had any problems.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M89JTXS/

I too love to build kits and I am going to school for computer engineering, and my Ender 3 is amazing. After some help from tuning and a firmware update, it prints amazingly and is extremely accurate. it takes a couple hours to set up, and to tune the printer to be perfectly dimentionally accurate, but I can say that was all worth it after I got the results from the prints. Since you have a little higher budget than the printer actually costs, I would advise buying a few upgrade kits for it also. I just put a BLTOUCH sensor onto mine, and I wish I had done it in the first place. It makes leveling a breeze, and makes the prints come off the bed extremely easily and smoothly. It also makes changing of build surface easy, as you don't need to relevel the bed every time you swap build plates. Also the bowden extruder that comes with the Ender 3 is not very good, but a machined aluminum one is relatively cheap, so I would also buy that right off and just replace the included one. After that is all said and done, you will still have some money left over for filament too.

https://banggood.app.link/09A68ozu8Y
https://banggood.app.link/4WoAcfDu8Y
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QHBNYD9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ic4uDb9KN8J3Q

I also recommend Hatchbox PLA or Inland PLA+, as I have had great experience with both.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J0EE1D4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0d4uDbADZH76K
https://www.microcenter.com/product/504219/inland-premium-175mm-gray-pla-3d-printer-filament---1kg-spool-(22-lbs)

TLDR; Ender 3 with linked upgrades and hatchbox or Inland PLA+. Happy Printing!

I bought 3D Mars for my black and white filament. Haven't had an issue with it. Their filament comes a little heavier for the same price but I'm happy with my results.

I've recently been getting stringing on my prints but I think some of my settings changed (need to lower my temp/speed).

3D MARS White 3D Printing Filament,3D Printer Filament 1.75mm PLA,Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.05mm,1.2kg Spool,1.75 mm PLA 3D Filament for Most 3D Printer & 3D Printing Pen
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0YDF3U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_EeJcAb5D2RVWN

Don't get wrapped up in brands at this price point. Amaz3D is basically hatchbox, they all come from the same chinese factory and rebrand them for sale. Hobbyking is very similar too.

https://www.amazon.ca/1-75mm-Black-PLA-Printer-Filament/dp/B01BZ5ND8O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1466895103&sr=8-2&keywords=PLA+black

haven’t printed yet, but i’m probably going to use the CC3D Silk Silver PLA on the Ender 3. We’ll see how it turns out, I’ll be sure to post a make.

edit: with white index logo :)

I was having issues printing with https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PF7GNPO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_D7M5AbY5GFKTB at 210C.

So far so good with white hatchbox pla, also at 210C.

I've been experimenting with 50mm/s, 40mm/s and now 30mm/s. I typically don't go over 50mm/s.

I only put it at 210 because that's what the insert from the PLA manufacturer (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EKEMDA6/ref=biss_dp_t_buying_options) suggested an extruder temp between 210->215 via the instructions inside.

I'll give the lower temp a try...

I would suggest some painters tape on the print surface, level your build plate, and re calibrate your z-offset.

What are printing with? ABS doesn't stick well to painters tape, but PLA and PETG and PEEK do.

Also is your material old? This is and little airbubbles is what happens to mine when its been sitting a while and it has absorbed some moisture. I keep my filament in an airtight bag when not in use with some silica and if I am in question, I throw it in the dehydrator for a day before using it.

These little pads that come with overture filaments work wonders for base layers even ABS.

https://www.amazon.com/OVERTURE-Filament-Consumables-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B07PGYHYV8/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=overture+printing+pad&qid=1568747878&sr=8-1

Amazon for 500g, $6 cheaper then when I bought them 9 months ago.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FCLLNFY

Most spools of PLA are $20-$30. You say goldenrod which sounds specific - most rolls are primary or secondary colors only. For example here's a roll of yellow PLA:

https://www.amazon.com/HATCHBOX-3D-PLA-1KG1-75-YLW-Filament-Dimensional/dp/B00J0GRREW

That said you can always paint the prints. I paint almost everything I print that's not a toy, usually 2-3 layers of primer then 2-3 layers of color. Looks great and can even get metallic looks.

You don't need to buy me a roll. I need to order some PLA anyways and as mentioned I paint everything anyways. What is the footprint size of your model again ballpark? Bounding box is fine

PLA from Amazon's 3D line:
https://www.amazon.com/1-75mm-Black-PLA-Printer-Filament/dp/B01BZ5ND8O/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

And I can totally understand the monetary concerns, $200+ is quite a lot of dough for just the plastic (the keycaps and switches add up too)

It's a technology budget, getting low-tech people to use your stuff is going to be a problem no matter what, unless you just want to dump it all into iPads and let people play Bejeweled. A couple pounds of filament to run the thing is $31 at Amazon, which is comparable to a box of paper, and no ink is required. That gives you an idea of the volume of stuff you can print, but if you do your own estimate, know that solid objects are usually not solid, they have a pattern inside to save on plastic. You will need a computer and maybe a few other one-time supplies, but the software is all free. Oh, and acetone for cleaning and gluing. If you want more information on costs and use, look into if you have a local hackerspace.

Now the benefits. This will absolutely make your school stand out. This is hands-on in a way that almost no other technology is. The technology is at the forefront (maybe not bleeding edge, but the forefront). Students will be able to create things that they can then keep, that will now be a part of their lives. It has practical as well as artistic applications.

I think you should learn and fight is what I'm saying.

This is my PLA https://www.amazon.com/1-75mm-Black-PLA-Printer-Filament/dp/B01BZ5ND8O

And yeah Cura does still do,

1. Do the entire outline
   
   
2. Do all the infill
   
   But only when the surface area is sufficiently large enough (~ > 4 square cm) but when I was printing the cube (Area 1 square cm) or when it's printing some sort of screw or a column that doesn't necessary have a lot of surface area, both Cura and S3D decide to do the infill in two parts. However Cura does the outline all at once, but S3D does the outline in 2 stages.

1. You need to slice the model into gcode, which is essentially a list of instructions of how to move the hotend to print the part. My favourite is Slic3r PE, which is a more advanced software. I would recommend CURA, as the slicing profile should have been provided in the SD card Link to set up SLIC3R
   
2. Gravity causes the filament to constantly "leak" out of the nozzle. You should keep your nozzle sub 160 for PLA before starting a print, or it will leak too much. Most slicers have whats called a prime or wipe line, which helps clean off the nozzle before the print
   
3. The BLTouch only comes with the probe and wiring, as well as some screws. You need to print out a BLTouch mount for the hotend in order to install it Link to a print in place, no supports option. You can also use this one, but you need an additional m3 screw
   
4. Refer to question 2, you usually need a slicer, and a software like Pronterface that allows you to connect to the printer and acts as a UI for testing. Both slic3r and pronterface are available for macOS
   
5. Not a stupid question at all! The nozzle is 0.4 mm, but the filament diameter is 1.75mm. Any filament that is 1.75mm you can use for printing. Some options for PLA are Hatchbox, Amazon Basics (Be careful, some people have had problems with this brand), and if there is a microcenter nearby, Solutech eSun filament

can you link me to that? i cant seem to find any for $13

nvm im stupid this is fine right?

Filament: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074T8TGL5/ref

STL:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1530632

I just got a roll of AIO Robotics
https://www.amazon.com/AIO-Robotics-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B01HYYPLT4/


The red is truly red, NOT ORANGE!, and it printed great. It made my Monoprice PLA+ and esun PLA+ red rolls look orange.


Also a decent price and shipped prime. I prefer .5kg rolls on my MP Mini as well

CC3D Silk Silver might work. I haven't used it, but I've used their Silk Copper, and it's pretty convincing.

Hatchbox and AMZ3D wood PLA from Amazon print just fine. AMZ3D filament comes from the same factory as Hatchbox. If you like one, you'll like the other. Also, AMZ3D has more blues and purples than Hatchbox (just in case you were interested).

Amazon, all show available to me.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FCLLNFY/ref=twister_B07WDPDWMG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

This one?

Looking at Amazon.ca it looks like the prices are low as well - 10.99$ CAD after coupon for a KG of PETG. That's the cheapest I've ever seen. I just bought my first spool the other day, so I'll be grabbing some more!

It’s not so much the model that defines the settings, but the resin. I used Elegoo gray. Here are my ChituBox settings for this resin.

You and I shop in different places. Try Amazon. Not the best prices but worldwide availability, and about $30 per roll.

Nylon is stronger and cheaper, and if you build or buy your own filament extruder you can recycle garbage plastics to reuse. (Filabot, Lyman, and others if you're Googling)

I get that you're quoting commercial machine prices, but very few individuals own a commercial printer, and businesses aren't downloading cars.

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Printer-Filament-1-75mm/dp/B018MG4SFQ

Cheaper without the sale:
http://www.amazon.com/Octave-1-75mm-Filament-MakerBot-Printer/dp/B0083HSPH2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368863452&sr=8-1&keywords=1.75+mm+abs+filament

The right side of that print should be straight. More pictures here: https://imgur.com/a/NoQeBjv

This was printed on a Prusa i3 Mk3, PETG at 250 extruder and 90 bed temps. The overhang side had support (removed prior to taking picture).

The area below the bulge is straight, but once it got above that split point where the support was needed on the other side, it started to bow the opposite out. What is this called? And more importantly, how can I fix this?




Previous prints with vertical walls in similar shapes did not exhibit this issue. In previous parts, the "stem" of the print was thicker, but the overhang was the same.

This was sliced in PrusaSlicer, using: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PGYHYV8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J0GRREW/

Hatchbox

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015I1CYFE/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thingiverse link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1241457

Printed on Original Prusa i3 MK2S

25% infill

0.2 resolution

Hatchbox Yellow PLA
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J0GRREW

215 deg extruder, 57 deg bed


Took just over 4 hours.

I'll probably get my post taken down here for this one; since they've had such a bad rep in terms of marketing. But I picked up some of the 3D MARS White from amazon at the same time I got my printer and it's been a joy to work with. No I was not contacted by them, or any of that stuff. I just saw a review saying it was the most solid white they'd seen in pla so I wanted to get it. Prints have turned out extremely smooth and I've had no issues with it printing anywhere from 195-220c. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0YDF3U/

Here.

EDIT: that's abs. This should be orange PLA

Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TTP8NCR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My problem with PrusaSlicer was that those supports were a bit too heavy, and were very difficult to remove. That being said... I'm only about 4 prints in, and am still trial and erroring my way through a bit of it. I probably just need to reduce them a bit (or really I think I had over exposure on the ones that were hard to remove).

Right now my biggest issue is some prints stick well to the bed, some don't. Between all prints I filtered the resin in the vat, and cleaned everything down with Sprayway cleaner.

The first print (the Anycubic Cube) turned out perfect.

My next print on my own everything fell of the print bed. I suspect I had too little curing so it stuck to the FEP a bit better? (Everything likes to stick to that FEP, lol).

The third print I hollowed everything out and added relief holes (to reduce suction)... re-zeroed the bed a little closer to the screen, put some pieces on 45 angles, some left with their base flush with the plate (as they were support free minis)... 75% made it through the print successfully (one of the flush ones failed). I noticed my prints were much more securely stuck to the bed.

My final print everything was hollowed out, mix of sliced in PrusaSlicer and ChiTuBox came out, but I used a smaller layer height and I don't believe I lowered my exposure time enough, as everything was DEFINITELY cured when it came out. This is the one where I had a hard time removing the Prusa supports (but the ChiTuBox light supports came off wonderfully).

Here's all my prints so far!

https://imgur.com/a/JEPq4iJ

My biggest questions so far is at what layer height should I be printing at? Are some better at others for getting solid first layers. I know in FDM you use a .2mm layer for your first layer, then go to finer detail if you need it.

Do some resins do better than others for adhesion to the bed (and less adhesion to the FEP)?

Are translucent resins bad for detail? I'd imagine you get scattering... but maybe not. I picked up a bottle of Elogoo Grey Resin ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FCLLNFY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) that I'm excited to try out.

Does the FEP just get less sticky over time?

Oh, i definitely appreciate everyone's help. You guys have been invaluable, and helped me get thru the glass bed, and the rewire mod, which i NEVER thought i'd be able to do, but came out fine.

​

1. i will atomic pull again tomorrow.. and i do have cleaning filiment so im good there.
   
   
2. ill try the bed test
   
   
3. in the hopes that maybe my filament just 'went bad' i went and bought a replacement spool. The ones ive been using are:
   
   ​
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EKEMDA6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   ​
   
   As for the settings, this is where im clueless. when i downloaded Cura, i used the generic settings that it picked for Monoprice Select Mini. Some people in this thread said that i shouldn't be doing that. I'm happy to change them to whatever people say i should, but im just clueless where most of this info is in cura, or what i shoud change exactly.
   
   ​
   
   ​
   
   But if you mean the temp i preheat the printer at, ive been doing 210, and 60 for the bed. Ive tried spinning the dial down on the speed, as low as minimim (.1) but nothing ive tried has helped. ALl of my other cura settings (layer hight, etc) are whatever cura set for me when i picked my printer model during installation... i was always too afraid to change anything)

Hatchbox PLA http://amzn.com/B00J0GRREW
Great stuff. Highly recommend.

If you mean the filament: https://www.amazon.com/Changing-Temperature-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B074T8TGL5/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549333011&sr=8-2&keywords=cc3d+purple+color