Best bench clamps according to redditors
We found 124 Reddit comments discussing the best bench clamps. We ranked the 40 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 124 Reddit comments discussing the best bench clamps. We ranked the 40 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
According to /u/meangrampa it cost about 75$.
25$ for the angle grinder.
80$ for the drill press
30$ for the vice
And then you have tools you can use for other stuff too.
But let's be real, anyone who needs a square broach already have at least the drill and the vice.
This might be excessive, but I wanted to be thorough so you can see what all is out there. I am having trouble thinking of anything that the following tools can't do, in terms of AR building and maintenance. This is basically my setup at home, though some.of the brands and whatnot are different.
I am operating under the assumption that you already have some basic hand tools in addition to the torque wrench.
The only things you absolutely need are roll pin punches and an armorer's wrench and some basic hand tools like Allen wrenches, screwdrivers, needlenose pliers and so on. The rest just expedite the process and help solve weird issues that may come up.
Wheeler Engineering Roll Pin Starter Punch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B3NWBVI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QJZDAb1ZFBQ80
Wheeler Roll Pin Punch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EE6GHVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4JZDAbV5YGA8M
Wheeler Hammer and Punch Set In Plastic Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SY07HU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FNZDAb1Y74EF0
Geissele Automatics 10-169 AR15/M4 Reaction Rod https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EY6WFAI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hOZDAbD3JHBAE
Aeroshell 33ms / MIL-G-21164D / MIL-SPEC Barrel Nut Thread Grease + 1/2oz can https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BJ3HE0K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4OZDAbQGRYJJ2
TEKTON Long Arm Ball End Hex Key Wrench Set, Inch/Metric, 26-Piece | 25282 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5THF4W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PPZDAbQ05H680
TEKTON Long Arm Star Key Wrench Set, T10-T50, 9-Piece | 25291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5THF9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cQZDAbRX59VNW
IRWIN Tools Multi-Purpose Bench Vise, 5-Inch (4935505) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009TOCZEC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1QZDAbT8R47J0
Yost UP-360 Universal 6 Inch Prism Style Jaw Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EVQH42U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aRZDAbRHAV73E
Real Avid Gun Tool Pro - for Modern Sporting Rifles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IMHX5KA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bUZDAbEB87JFB
Wheeler Firearms Accurizing Torque Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012AXR4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xWZDAb1SRYD6D
Wheeler Professional Gunsmithing Screwdriver Set (43-Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HTN4EWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HXZDAbQX5BEWF
TacWater USA AR15/M4/M16 Tools Multi-Purpose Tool Set (W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079H5WWZ3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GYZDAbRGY3CNH
Takedown Pivot PIN Tool set 223 556 6.8 SPC 300 AAC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017OUSJFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_V.ZDAbSHZPEG5
Magpul Bev Block https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1015877615/magpul-bev-block-ar-15-action-block
I built several ARs with one of these and a vise block, mounted to my apartment railing at the time: IRWIN Woodworking Vise, 3-Inch (226303ZR) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001LQY44/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_MwRHDbJ83HPCT
Honestly, I'd save up for a real vise though. I only did it, because the only solid mounting surface I had was that railing at the time
> 4 1/2” table Vice
https://smile.amazon.com/Yost-LV4-Home-Vise-41/dp/B00YS401X0/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_2?keywords=4+1%2F2%E2%80%9D+table+Vice&qid=1565969161&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmr2
You can get 1 for $24 or a pack of 2 for only $100...
I use a PanaVise 315 (link) + 305 base. Good but not cheap.
Alright I'll bite. Hand tool shop
Narex Chisels 48.99
stanley Jack plane 59.99
stanley Smoother 45.00
Stanley low angle Block plane 31.25
HF combo square 6.99
HF Mallet 5.99
Stanley jointer 150
Sharpening stone (water) 33
Panel saw 1 (cross) 19.50
Panel saw 2 (rip) 16.99
Marking gage 20
Dovetail saw 26.82
Vise 26.46
marking knife 9
Total cost so far: 500.97
shipping from ebay depends on where you are but shouldn't be more than $60 so we factor that in:
560.97
build your own bench (not going to take the time to go into details but it shouldn't cost more than $500 for materials
so now you have
999.03 left to get whever else you want (more marking gages? switch some of the above for better stuff? spoke shave? cabinet scraper? router plane? brace and bit?)
You could get better prices for the ebay stuff above if you were patient that's just what's out there right now. the above is more than enough to do 90% of handtool projects though. Just watch those compound curves ;)
I'd use a cheap wooden stool as a bench and a clamp-on vise. https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-Clamp-On-Vise-3-226303/dp/B0001LQY44
Could use this I reckon...
Is the vice he uses articulating? I find that certain angles are easier to put force behind, so a clamp like this has been helpful. Also, a set of needle files helps when trying to avoid those delicate, precise cuts.
I've seen a few of these built, so I wanted to give them a try. Flew some sorties tonight and pretty happy with them so far. Really nice to have something which can be removed easily when I'm done.
3" Drill Press Vice
Steel brackets
Extreme Velcro
I found this extreme velcro on a whim and it's awesome. It adheres to anything and locks your stick/throttle down tight, yet can still be removed when you are done. I used it to attach my IR clip to the headphones, and it's great there also.
Boards are simply a cheap bamboo cutting board I got at Walmart and sawed in two. Add the bolts and screws and I'd say this whole thing was less than $50.
Maybe be aware the brackets are on the small side, so if you want something that will hang lower, you'll want to look at something different.
Edit: just wanted to say....you'll need to wipe down the vices when you get them. They are covered with a light oil to prevent rusting I'd guess. Take a rag and give them quick wipe all over (the jaws too, they will leave a mark on your desk!)
Vise: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001LQY44/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Bev block: https://www.midwayusa.com/product/855360/magpul-bev-block-ar-15-action-block
AR tool: https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007352657/tapco-multi-tool-ar-15
Featureless grip: https://resurgentarms.com/products/ra-featureless-rifle-grip
Looks like
Irwin 226361 Woodworker's Vise, 6 1/2 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001LQY4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7boLzbMF6F5DD
I'm a big fan of this method. Was one of my first projects I did using chisels, I'm a newbie too. Made one of these with 1" pine, 4" harbor freight vise, and $20 Irwin wood vise. I have found I use the wood vise a lot more than the machinist vise. Even non wood things.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001LQY4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hHNKBb6VMB03B
This is what I use. It didn't come with mounting hardware, so I used 3/8ths inch lag bolts and washers for extra stability (which will be less than $2 at your local hardware store).
YOu are making this waaay to expensive
So the top at 5" thick is 60 board feet. It's actually 50 board feet but I threw in an extra 10 for waste. I pay 2 bucks a board foot for utility grade hardwoods (F1F or Select oak, soft maple, ash, or yellow birch). Going to a sawyer isn't going to half the price, it should cut it down by a factor of 5. S4S hardwood pricing at big box stores rivals the price of exotics around me.
So that's 120.00 for the top
Personally I think 5" is a bit on the extreme side for a top so I'd go 3". That's 40 board feet (actually 30) so that's $80.00
I actually prefer a softwood bench. Twelve 12 foot 2x4's (plenty of room to chop in half and plane down defects to get you a 24" x 5' bench) is $72.00
Base - laminate some boards to get you to the right thickness. Estimating will really depend on your overall design and height, but let's call it $50.00
Vises - 120.00 gets you a leg vise and a tail vise if you don't want to get fancy. (use the screw for a leg vise).
Bench dogs - make some. I like these. There are other options for around $12.00 shipped.
Holdfasts - 35 bucks for a pair from TFWW
So to recap - You are looking at about $400.00 to 450.00 total for a 5 foot hardwood Roubo with a 5" top with a tail and leg vise, dogs, and a pair of holdfasts. Less if you go thinner for the top. Even less if you go softwoods.
I will second the Yost 750 DI. I have a Wilton columbian that looks the same. the pipe jaws on the bottom have come in very useful on multiple occasions.
I screwed one of these on to the wasteboard for doing some small alluminum parts repeatedly. Works great.
Sjobergs SJO-33274 Smart Vise
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009VDQ628/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_e8gEwbB115AXD
I'm in the same boat as you. I built an assembly table a few months back, but didn't bother to incorporate a vise or a system to utilize for hand tools. I'm going to try this I found.
> Damn then i linked the wrong one :( I was wanting to post the one w/o bcg or CH. I havent found much info on what constitutes a "premium" barrel, i have read that 416r is long lasting, but CMV is better for accuracy? Im not sure what makes a barrel from one company better than the other when they are made from the same material.
It's not just about the material, manufacturing techniques and experience do make a difference. But whether or not that difference is worth it depends on what purpose(s) this rifle will serve.
> How hard is constructing the barrel/upper without a vice/torque wrench/vice? am i asking for trouble by tryingto do that all myself being a newb?
You could improvise a vice, but you risk crushing your upper. Some aftermarket handguards (e.g. ALG EMR) don't require a torque wrench. They come with a proprietary wrench that has little marks to let you know when it's torqued enough. I built two uppers using this $40 vice bolted to a plank that I sat on for counter-balance weight. Worked just fine. You may also need a pipe of some kind for extended leverage on the wrench.
> Can you recommnd an upper with a good barrel to match the BCM bcg? I want to buy once cry once so to speak.
A BCM upper? But, once again, what are you looking for this rifle to do? You may be able to save a couple hundred bucks on a rifle that will perform as well for your needs and then that money can go to more ammo and practice.
yost
makes a great vise. Not us made, but its pretty heavy duty for what it is. The pipe vise attachment is also pretty great.
Super easy to do at home, buy the following.
Golf Grip Kit (Deluxe Grip Kit: Hook Blade, 15 Grip Tape Strips, 4 Ounce Solvent, Rubber Vise Clamp) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079YM7Y6J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UXkpDb59GXSWN
Yost LV-4 Home Vise 4-1/2" (1 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YS401X0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XYkpDbWFH24EM
If I was starting from scratch I'd first get:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LW80Y0J/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
At $9.8 a clamp for 330lb pressure quick clamps they're great. Not quite as nice as the heavy duty Irwins because each squeeze doesn't move them as much but for the price I'd go with the Yost.
https://www.amazon.com/Yost-M7WW-Rapid-Acting-Working/dp/B00SIQ1DDG/ref=pd_sim_328_2?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=BKJ5FP839P8N1FH21F8T&th=1
That vise is a pretty nice deal right now too.
Probably 2 packs of these but they'll take forever to arrive:
https://www.amazon.com/Jet-70460-2-Parallel-Clamp-Pack/dp/B000UBIXD0/ref=pd_sim_328_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BKJ5FP839P8N1FH21F8T
I'd get maybe 8 of these, and pipe from the home center:
https://www.amazon.com/Bessey-BPC-H34-4-Inch-Style-Clamp/dp/B0012YNJRO/ref=pd_sim_469_10?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ECFV96CT5EFKCBM4BQW1
Go to the home center for the current deals on the Bessey F style bar clamps, or HF specials, I don't think I can live with less than 8 of those.
And I'd say 6 of these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0713YHP6Q/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
Based on current pricing I'd go with the Yost, but my personal favorite are the Jets. After getting the hang of the Yosts I honestly like them more than K body Revos from Bessey because they tighten faster and harder. However they have a bit of slop and you have to kinda nudge them to get them to bite, which was frustrating the first time I used them.
And there I've just spent $800 for you :)
Depending on what you make, corner clamps, miter clamps, twin screw wood clamps, dovetail/fence/drill press clamps, toggle clamps for jigs, track clamps for track saw, C clamps, pocket hole clamps etc.
Edit: pricing this out made me notice I've spent well over $1k on clamps... That list is probably barely half my clamps not even...
I have this one (7” size) from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Yost-Rapid-Acting-Wood-Working/dp/B00SIQ1DLS?th=1&psc=1
It’s $70, under mount, with a quick release lever. It’s excellent and hasn’t let me down. It does everything I need and an excellent value. The quick release lever is a must and makes things much easier. Sure I’d love those awesome wooden vises that are the whole leg of the bench, or have the big wheels, but I also don’t want to spend hundreds.
I think I had to buy my own mounting bolts. I used about 9-10” pieces of oak to make wooden jaws (3/4” piece on the inside, 2 glued up 3/4” pieces on the outside - it’s just what some bench plan told me to do because you can then drill bench dog holes in the outside part but I haven’t done that yet) and just countersunk screws through the wood pieces into the metal jaws. Then I planed the top of the wood jaws flush with the bench top.
Would you mind posting a few pictures of how you did the legs? I have my top section, but stalled out. I also have a couple gramercy holdfasts, this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00012XCCA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and this https://www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-large-front-vise?gclid=CjwKCAjw2cTmBRAVEiwA8YMgzUrHg_vrJ8InPWmbNdVrg9n7lkZsTZ260sqDdXlSAcRanx2tvES_2hoCRg8QAvD_BwE but no good plan on how I'm going to configure them.
Here you go. Better ones probably exist, but I wanted the cheapest half decent one that I could clamp to something outside to avoid making a mess and then take back inside to prevent rusting in the rain. I've had a good experience using this one at a buddy's house. Also, /u/d0nSocko mentioned that the one I bought would suck for metal (not sure why, he'll have to explain that one).
https://www.amazon.com/Yost-M7WW-Rapid-Acting-Working/dp/B00SIQ1DLS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1502929894&sr=8-3-spons&keywords=woodworking+vise&psc=1
Its okay - I used it for a few years with no problem
I went with something different when I built my second bench:
https://www.hovartercustomvise.com/product/face-vise-hardware-kit/
That deal seems dead, I don't see $109 anymore on Prime.
The Yost 9inch vise is $82, lowest price according to Camelx3. Does anyone have any comment on it?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SIQ1DDG/ref=twister_B015Z8OTRG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ISVWC6/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MAUZ71V/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GSLKIW/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008MG7V1K/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YS401X0/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001MYGLJC/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013RA5DQ/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0001NA29U/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000OQRGF2/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004MCMCYE/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M0LJM8G/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LICGSFU/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8
Just buy one of these
If you want to build an AR on your own (grown man legos ftw) I suggest you build one. You can build a quality AR on the cheap. There is a barrier to entry from the tools you will need but from there on out you can use those tools for multiple builds. At a minimum you will need:
---
As for AR parts you can go pretty basic with an Anderson lower (~$45 not including paperwork). Or you can get a "better" lower that has build in ambi mag release, that tab that prevents rattling (can't remember what it's called atm), etc. The lower will last you through multiple builds. I'm still rocking the Anderson lower on this ~$4,500 build so it's definitely versatile.
From there you can also go basic with the upper, where I suggest an Aero Precision (~$65). From there you'll need a BCG, barrel, handguard, buffer tube (technical term is receiver extension), stock, pistol grip, trigger, and lower and uppers parts kits.
If you want something you can just go and shoot and don't care to modify, then buy a pre-built AR. If you want to build one to custom fit your needs then I suggest you put down the money on the tools. Best part about the tools is that you can fix and replace most issues that comes up with your or your friends ARs.
Also don't forget to buy some liquid blue and aluminium black just in case.
Ha! I know only because I took a look at those.
I don't have the luxury of having a workbench, so I bought this sucker and attached it to a 2' long scrap of 2x12 using 2" long 1/4" bolts and washers countersunk from the bottom. 3 minutes later I had a portable workbench vice.
I bought this vise because it's low profile. I attached some scrap 1x4 to it as jaws and it works great. It's no plumber's pipe vise but it hasn't let me down yet.
Do you have a table you could use as a base? Others have mentioned using something like this vise https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AA12CWM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A1OIIZJKTXNTOC&psc=1
Having something that swivels is crucial so you can get to the back of your work.
On the other hand, having a specialized piece of equipment that's designed to do exactly what you need might be worth the investment.
Needlework System 4 does have a table clamp, but they aren't cheap.
http://www.banggood.com/Realacc-Strange-Third-Hand-Six-Arm-Soldering-Station-with-USB-Fan-p-1081818.html
If you already have a panavise, I recommend this one instead, but otherwise the banggood one is a good deal.
Honestly, this is what I did: I found someone giving away a bathroom sink. I gratefully accepted the bathroom sink and threw the counter top away. Then, I went and got half a sheet of 3/4 inch plywood at home depot for about $15. I put it on top of the cabinet and screwed it down. Then, I had a $15 workbench. I got a cheap Yost LV-4 for $25 with Prime shipping from Amazon and had everything set up for $40
Look up a black and decker work mate like this, I hear people in apartments love them.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PTX62XW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1419747185&sr=8-1&dpPl=1&dpID=51PQpSgajGL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40#
Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001LQY44
It's pretty lightweight, I wouldn't do anything heavy duty on it and the clamps are only 3" max, but it was cheap and I just needed something simple for a mag block. I usually shim in 2 pieces of wood to protect my desk between the clamp and desk.
I picked up one of these when they went on sale for ~$65 looks to be similar to the one he shows in his drawings. Not sure how often they go on sale for that price though, camelcamelcamel says they average around $95. The F9WW would be a decent option as well if you don't want to wait for a price drop. I haven't purchased a tail vise yet so I can't give recommendations for that, but it looks like he just uses the same vise on the end since it has a bench dog built into it
I just did this the other day. After many methods of trying like you did, I read that getting it in a table vice was the best method of taking it apart, so I went ahead and bought this one off of Amazon. It ended up doing the trick quite nicely. That sealant/adhesive is some tough shiz.
I got it with this gauge as well as it's cheaper than the one you posted.
I still haven't done the OPV mod as the gauge is still on the way in, and I ended up needing to replace my boiler thermostat as it got damaged recently.
Best of luck to you! It will/does eventually come off. Depending on your strength, you might want to get assistance from a strong friend as it was still difficult even with the vice.
I've put Madbull rails on regular KWAs, I don't think they will be on the RM4 different.
You'll need an good AR tool to get the Delta Ring off. Leave the gearbox in the receivers when you do this. Putting it in a vise with soft jaws is handy. KWA cranks that Delta ring on tight at the factory.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0001LQY4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mYVEDbBH59YEM
And
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B078X8F1G8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_d0VEDbM0ZQEE9
Of course "break the bank" is relative, but this Wilton vise is worth the extra $100 over that Pony.
This Yost is perhaps a better value, but you need to make sure you get a good one as it seems they have some quality control issues.
I have a 7" vise, and I wish I'd gotten a 9". But, I'd rather have a 7" Wilton over a 9" not-Wilton.
This expensive one has a T-REX on the side
I dunno, man. I am at the 'a vise does what a vise does unless it doesn't' opinion until I find out otherwise.
Here's a neat one:
$25 Yost vise
$400 Yost vise
Same company put their name on both products.
Ah gotcha - makes sense. Imagine it's got to be quite a bit faster & gives a bit more even pressure that way. Actually, a C-Clamp would probably be better/easier to work with & modify for that purpose then.
Also - the type of thread is apparently called "ACME". Took me forever to find out what they called it. Have to assume there is a way to buy an acme rod with a hex head & matching bolt.
Aaaand last edit. I'm looking into doing this myself so figured I'd just add what I find in here as well. This seems like it'd be even better than the c-clamp since it's got attachment points built in to the nut - wouldn't even need to use the welded screw method. Or, for the lazy ones of us out there - there's of course this
So I was thinking about using a drill vise that’ll put in 1000lbs of pressure.....
Irwin Tools Drill Press Vise, 4", 226340 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001LQY4O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.1qDDb01NTRT4
I just feel so much for comfortable crushing on a table instead of in my hands per day. I haven’t seen any kits to convert a vise. I was planning on using the same hair straightener but use epoxy to these jaws and squeeze at 1000lbs....
Is there an advantage to using the hand-crank over this?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YS401X0/ref=psdc_5739459011_t2_B0013E2AQY
I wish I could find stuff this cheap in the UK.
I have two for you; on is a vice that clamps to a table, other is bigger mounted one.
Table clamp vise; https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Tools-Clamp-Vise-226303/dp/B0001LQY44/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1543056262&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=clamp+vise&dpPl=1&dpID=418AAZf3PPL&ref=plSrch
That's the one I own. I throw it in my bookbag sometimes lol.
Here's a bigger mounted style one;
https://www.amazon.com/Yost-LV4-Home-Vise-41/dp/B00YS401X0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1543056333&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=vise&psc=1
I also got some nylon jaws to go over the metal jaws so I don't ruin picks
Ugh that's the problem I'm having. I keep switching between a 9 (or 10, not sure) inch hoop and a 17 inch qsnap. My grime guard didn't come in yet so I don't have anywhere to tuck my excess fabric with the qsnap so I'm using binder clips to clip the fabric.
I'm also using a 3 inch bench vise to clamp the qsnap in place and hold it for me and act as a stand. It cost 20 bucks on amazon opposed to a $150 stand that would be just as effective.
Hopefully once my grime guard comes in, stitching in the qsnap will be more manageable. But for now I think I'm liking the hoop.
This is the vise I bought, as recommended by others on this sub.
Formatting is hard.
Here is the desktop version of your link
I bought this torque wrench for $40. It's been working fine so far. $22 on this vice. I picked up a BEV Block at GT's I think.
It's not amazing or anything, but I've been able to do everything I've needed to up to this point.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YS401X0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (Vise)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018QNM7V2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (Vise jaws/pads)
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/210021/wheeler-engineering-delta-series-upper-receiver-ar-15-action-vise-block-clamp (Upper receiver block clamp)
Mount the vise on a scrap piece of wood with the appropriate bolts, then use two c-clamps (Harbor Freight say wut?) to hold said piece of wood with mounted vise to your counter.
That is roughly $65, you can torque until your face turns red and you pass out or the kitchen counter rips off the cabinets. You can also order a $8.00-$20.00 lower receiver vise block and you're set. Have fun building. Cheers!
Sweet, thank you. I don't recall ever hearing about the Naked Woodworker. I will look into it. Guess I have to start stalking ebay and CL now.
One last question: I am going to have to completely alter my workbench situation (my current bench is a built-in, so I cannot take it with me). Given my new size restrictions I have been considering getting one of these to clamp to a dining table or countertop to save space. Given the relative small size of pieces I will be working on, do you think this would be problematic - would I regret this? The only alternative I can think of is building a new work bench that would have to live outside, exposed to the elements 24/7 (and be quite small itself).
Kreg Bench Dogs
PanaVise 350 Multi-Purpose Work Center
its a bit of overkill for what he's using it for, but its more general purpose than the circuit board attachment
I used the gen 1 version of that jig and I think the end mill had a much smaller diameter. I did it with a hand held router and only took off very thin layers. I'd imagine an end mill with a smaller diameter wouldn't jump around as much, but even with a larger one, just take off thinner layers. It's take longer, but the there's less chance of jumping and the whole process will be more smooth. It shouldn't be smokey. Even though it's just aluminum, I used some Viper's Venom Cutting Oil and it made the whole process even more smooth.
As for a "workbench" I took a cheap drill press vice like this and bolted it down onto a 3 foot by 3 foot square of wood that was maybe half an inch thick, and knelt down on it while I worked.
OK wow thank you...I did notice there is no mounting holes... I found this one instead I think would be better what do you think...if u look at the reviews and the pictures a customer posted that's the kind I want to make a twin screw style
http://www.amazon.com/Shop-Fox-D3258-Bench-Screw/dp/B00012XCCA
You can make two HOTAS mounts with drill press vices, some brackets, and cheap shelving for about $50 if you've got a saw or can get someone to cut the shelving for you. This is the one I got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019KTKS9Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You are getting horrible advice and this thread is complete shit. Here is exactly what you need:
Vice.
Upper Vice Block.
Torque Wrench 1/2”.
Anti-Seize Grease.
Blue Loctite.
Punch Set.
Torx & Allen Set.
The reason people are recommending an armorers wrench is for the muzzle break install. Every armorers wrench has a slot designed for installing one. This isn’t mandatory because you can use a regular wrench but you might as well get one because you will need one to build a lower when installing the castle nut.
https://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/ncstar-armorers-wrench#repChildCatid=3134114
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1019303727/ar-stoner-ar-15-roll-pin-punch-set-7-piece-steel
https://www.amazon.com/Yost-LV-4-Home-Vise-4-1/dp/B00YS401X0/ref=zg_bs_5739459011_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=SJ1B9JG5TWAYKYE476FF
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007359056/wheeler-engineering-delta-series-upper-receiver-ar-15-action-vise-block-clamp
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007357996/wheeler-engineering-delta-series-multi-tool-with-torque-wrench-ar-15-steel
Does this look like everything I would need?
This, but I regret it. Not big enough. OP has the right idea and I will probably get one of these woodworking vises in time.
I used 1/8 by 2 in aluminum stock with stainless screws. The screw I got on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00012XCCA/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1473043332&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=press+screw&dpPl=1&dpID=31xL2j6BDiL&ref=plSrch
I used a Drill Press Vice to hold the frame steady, and a Dremel with a High Speed Cutter bit to work away at the frame. I just made lateral cuts until the speaker fit, then used a polishing bit to clean it up. For the plastic fuel tank, try it without holes first to see how it sounds for you. On one model, I poked holes through it with a hot soldering iron tip to try and get more sound, but I'm not sure it helped.
It is a Yost LV-4 and a cutting board from Ikea. I can't find it on their website but its raised about half an inch on two sides so it made mounting the vise really easy.
It's this one
If you want to spend some dough to make your life easier Panavice makes products like this. You have to buy the base to go with it but it's worth it to have something solid, doesn't break, and can support significant weight and larger circuit boards.
That plus alligator clips everywhere.
Thanks!
this is the vice I have: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001LQY44/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The black insert for holding the club is from golfworks.com
I waited for a sale and got a Harbor Freight torque wrench for $12, a punch set for $5, I've been using the Tapco castle nut wrench for like six years now. Holy crap, buy that upper clamshell from Midway while it's at that clearance price...all this and a good set of hex keys and some moly grease should cover the basics.
https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/products/chairs-stools-benches/step-stools-step-ladders/bekv%C3%A4m-step-stool-birch-art-30178879/
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00YS401X0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RIAwCbWH95H3E
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007359056/wheeler-engineering-delta-series-upper-receiver-ar-15-action-vise-block-clamp
So I have recently started doing my own scale work. It is quite fun but can be tedious work with how precise you MUST be for drilling screws or the knife wont go back together properly. Blade centering can be screwed up etc.
Anyways the main tools that I use are as follows:
Skil Drill press
Dremel 4000
Dremel Shaper Table
Swivel Benchtop Vise
You will still need other assorted accessories like sanding wheels, cutting wheels (if you dont have a table saw for cutting down G10/Wood/Whatever media). While I am not a pro and I am just starting these are the essentials. Please feel free to PM me or email me [email protected] if you have any other questions. I would be more than happy to help. It is extremely rewarding when you complete a set. The first few may not be perfect but you MADE them yourself :)
The only 2 I have successfully completed. I still need to work on my pattern technique
I use this Irwin Table Vice and this Remmington Hair Straightener and some parchment paper.
Take a gram or so of frosty nugs, compress them slightly, then place in the center of a folded piece of parchment and clamp the weed/parchment in the center of the ceramic plates. Then place the straightener into the table vice and compress until relatively tight. Now, keep the straightener at lowest heat setting, turn it on, and allow for it to heat until you begin to hear a light sizzling. Turn off the straightener, and compress the vice down as much as possible, allow it to squeeze for 20+ seconds (time and temp can vary between strains). Now remove pressure and see how much you yielded. Use a dab tool or toothpick to collect the rosin, consistency can range from crumble, pull and snap, shatter, or wet terpy oil. If it's too wet to collect, pop it in the freezer for a tiny bit to make it easier. Can also save the spent rosin chips to make edibles, or can be ground up and smoked.
Edit: grammar/spelling
I have this one and I use this with a couple pieces of cardboard on the plates to keep them from scratching the pre press.
i was talking about this kind of vise, or i think you replied to the wrong comment.
I bought a 9" vice with a 10" opening so that I could drill less dogholes. I just didn't want to have to swiss cheese the top.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SIQ1DDG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The vice works great but I wouldn't recommend buying it now. Price rose a lot since I bought it for $91.
Holdfasts are gramercy.
Yeah, I'm trying to save money on it too. What padlock brand/model are you disassembling? Field stripping this Kwikset is the first thing I did when I got it. Very nice to gain that familiarity with the workings before attacking it.
I went about making the picks by printing a Romstar template, matching scale to the ruler in inches on the print-out. Cut out the desired tools and glued them each to a ~5" long section of feeler stock (1/2" wide x 0.02" thick, meant for testing tolerances in machine shops and production lines. 0.02-0.025" is supposed to be the thickness for North American keyways.)
After glue drying, I clamped the feeler stock in a horizontal position in this small vice, and then used EZ Lock Metal Cut-off wheels @~30k RPM to generate a rough shape (Cat#EZ456, should be able to find for $2 per wheel or less, or even cheaper off-brand products). The slower you go and the less you remove at a time, the longer your wheel will last and the less likely you are to overheat the steel (which can cause weaknesses). I used long, light strokes down the whole 5" of feeler for every pass, removing sub-millimeter quantities each time.
I left about 0.5mm of the white paper surrounding the printed tool template, so that I could more cautiously produce the final tool shape with an aluminum oxide grinding wheel (Dremel 952,932,etc). I clamped the Dremel 4300 down to the counter with the bit hanging over the sink, and then hand-held the tool while using the length of the grinding wheel to remove some of the mountains and valley produced by the very thin metal cutting wheel. Holding the pick while leaving the Dremel clamped made it easy to affect how much metal was being removed with small changes in force applied. I used the corners of the grinding wheel to remove away the final material around the snake/hook/half-diamond business end. The same wheel was then used to remove rough spots and round out the edges.
Finishing used some 240 grit sand paper and then a felt buffing wheel with abrasive compound. All these Dremel items came in this Dremel 4300 kit I was gifted a while back. I have a feeling a bench grinder will do a much faster, cleaner job -- but we've all got to start somewhere! :-D
Edit: I'm in the same situation with the recording. Still have to get my white belt yet though! :-D I'll have to figure out a good spot for my phone, or maybe use my webcam. I agree on the cam, never hurts to have a cheap Logitech cam around.
Ok, so here's what you need.
x4 nuts, x4 bolts and x4 washers. Size depends on angle bracket holes but does not matter to much.
Wood screws.
1x piece of plywood (about 8-10 mm thick) large enough to fit both the stick and throttle.
x2 Drill Press Vise (https://www.amazon.com/DELTA-20-621-4-Inch-Drill-Press/dp/B000056NPL) this exact model or very similar is what you need
x2 steel angle brackets
https://static.byggmax.com/media/!Item!234099!productImage!0_234099.jpg/phonefw/Vinkel.jpg
1: Place the throttle on plywood, mark around its base and cut out the form with a saw.
Sand the rough edges of. Do the same for the stick.
2: clamp the vise to the desk and attach the metal brackets to the vise using the nuts, bolts and washers. Adjust them so they are equal in height.
3: place the plywood on top of the brackets, screw it in place from underneath using wood screws through the steel bracket.
4: Place the stick/throttle on the now attached plywood, if there's any mounting holes on the stick / throttle, screw it to the plywood.
Let me know if you have any questions.
A vise will work like this (just put something soft on both sides so you dont damage the cart) or even a pair of large enough pliers will work.