Best car audio subwoofers according to redditors
We found 666 Reddit comments discussing the best car audio subwoofers. We ranked the 301 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 666 Reddit comments discussing the best car audio subwoofers. We ranked the 301 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Some background: I was following this thread on tesla owners online closely and was very nervous about the errors folks were running into. Because it all sounded over my head, I went to a professional installer with some insights I learned from the thread.
Well, the installer kinda botched the job. I wasn't happy with the sound (they had to remove my LC2i due to turn-off "thump") and I was very unhappy with their shoddy wiring job & relay placement.
So, I opted to do it all over again myself, and I just finished it today. I'll detail what you see here:
If you have any questions let me know! The system sounds impeccable with the added low end. Very happy with the result and it was all worth it in the end.
Go for all BOSS BOSS audio master race. You get like 4000w for $20. Bump so hard that shit cray
Edit: On a less troll note, you might try something like this
They are the older model type X. They new models are $500.
I can’t find any kicker ex 2000.1 amp.
I would offer $300 USD worth. Up to $600 USD
Either way, I would make sure they work, and make a new custom box
Personally, I would get something differently. I don’t like second hand very much to begin with and you can get very good subs for the same price but new
Example:
Sa-12
With
This Amp
Runs $340 USD, and is decent. There are still better options than that. I suggest hoping on discord with a goals and budget and we can hook you up
That amp isn't really going to give you the transient response with a passive sub with it's wattage output, especially if running all four outputs.
You'd probably be best off with the BIC. If you have the skills needed, you could possibly build a DIY with a decent/budget bare sub and something like a Rockville RPA9 bridged and using the 150hz crossover.
https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-W12K6D4-V2-Subwoofer-Compliant/dp/B07BMMS1LJ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536642739&sr=8-1&keywords=rockville%2Bsubwoofer%2Bcea%2Bcompliant%2Bk9&th=1
with this;
https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-RPA9-Channel-Power-Amplifier/dp/B06XDRZD3D/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1536642824&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=rockville+rpa9&psc=1
And this;
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013N0UEE/ref=twister_B01MQQB9D9?_encoding=UTF8&th=1
would give you a hell of a lot of bass for around $300.
But that's ultimately up to you.
This is just my opinion, I only have a basic understanding of CarAv stuff, but for 500 you could buy a whole new sub and amp. I dont know who and how much it is to repair a sub tho, so maybe its a better deal. But from my experience, my MTX Terminators are great.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001JECAM2?pc_redir=1408200639&robot_redir=1
Add a decent amp (250-300) , and theres your 500. Chuck a wiring kit in there too, set aside a full day to set it up and your good!
Just finished installing a 4 channel amp with a ton of help today, took alllll day. And dont rush yourself if you do install it. There are tons of helpful youtube videos out there.
Just my two cents!
EDIT: Heres an ok amp, under 200.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BJF4V9G/ref=pd_aw_sims_7/188-5557484-9874164?pi=SS115&simLd=1
And my amp I use on my Terminators
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Wb4A0iVTrjr/p_236T4250D/MTX-Thunder4250D.html
Hope this helped!
Wow I can't believe I'm even linking this thing here...
If you reeeeally want a super duper cheap 6.5" sub check out the Pyle PLPW6D. You can get it for $13 shipped from Amazon. Yes, $13, and it's dual 4 ohm like you need. It's not going to sound the best but it will hold you over until you can save some green to get it done right.
Just promise me you'll save up a few hundred dollars and get a proper bass setup some day.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_24975_Precision-Power-PPI-S850.1D.html
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0050I6KII/ref=pd_aw_sims_1/189-1619665-3315235?pi=SS115&simLd=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EVZDW00?pc_redir=1405013338&robot_redir=1
On Amazon pioneer makes a shallow 10 inch. I had one for my ranger worked great! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQTU3QC/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_CPh7BbNBAKVGE
I put one of these under the back seat along with a small amp. Made a night and day difference.
https://www.amazon.ca/PIONEER-TSSWX2502-Shallow-Mount-Pre-Loaded-Enclosure/dp/B00JQTU3QC
http://www.amazon.com/SA-12-D4-Sundown-Audio-Subwoofer/dp/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1375125535&sr=1-1
Build a box to spec.
Ever consider a powered sub? Like the infinity basslink or Rockford Fosgate https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZFBvzbVWXXRFW
They add lows without adding them to the car next to you.
i'd have checked out a single 12" from sundown or something. kicker is sort of a shitty brand tbh plus you're partially paying for marketing in that price. a good 12" will always be better than 2 below average 10"
absolute tank https://www.amazon.com/SA-12-D4-REV-3-Sundown-Subwoofer/dp/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_107_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=E5D1EH8CWXTGAR0863EF
Could you please include your vehicle's year, make, and model in future posts?
If you want my honest opinion, no speakers you get for $60/pair are going to be better than the Bostons you have now, unless yours are straight up blown and rattling. And since you have the Boston system, there's probably a factory amp which may or may not use DSP. Point being, you already think those speakers sound pretty good. So add a subwoofer, pull the bass setting on the head unit down a click, and you'll be able to crank those speakers a touch more. As for sub, the Fosgate P300 is recommended here a lot and for good reason. Solid performer and it's an easy to install all-in-one solution. Easy to remove the whole thing quickly, should you need to trade the car in or just make room for luggage.
Rockford Fosgate P300-10 Punch Powered Loaded 10-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W2Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OKYQzbAT9VST5
Thats what i have. I didnt run anything to clean up the signal but i did isolate the signal wire from the power and ground. I ran sheilded speaker wire from the passenger B pillar and underneath the back seat cushion. I ran the power through the cabin, tucked underneath the carpet and door seals.
The sub is smart enough to turn on and off by detecting signal from the head unit.
I forgot to mention the best part. The harness just clips into the sub so removal is super easy. I have it attached to the false floor and i can easily pull it in and out for track days.
I've heard good things about the Rockford Fosgate P300-10 or P300-12. They aren't a tube per say, but a samll-ish sub box with a 300 watt amp built in. The 12 runs $250. https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-12-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=p300-12&qid=1563151399&s=gateway&sr=8-1
Here's two options:
A.)
sub and amp.
box.
Total: $166.03
B.)
amp and sub
wiring kit
Total: $209.79
You'll have to be thrifty @ $500, but I think you can put something together that sounds good.
I have a 5-channel amp in my truck with 4x 75w (only using two channels here) and 1x 350 w for the sub. It's plenty loud. The 5 channel is nice for simplicity, but doesn't leave any room to grow if you decide you need a bigger sub or something.
People talk about powered subwoofers on here once in a while, you'll find recommendations if you search. E.g. https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-12-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007AQ2W6W/
You might need to play with the sub position to get it to sound good in teh van (might resonate at some frequency in the back corner but sound better a few feet forward, etc. TBD. If you give it a few feet of cord, you can move it to the back fo the van when you''re listening to music ouside the back doors.
These are affordable and sound good: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANI3LAK/
https://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-KMM-BT322-Player-Bluetooth-sirius/dp/B07CNWRC65
I think you might need to spend at least another $100. My daughter has this and it’s pretty awesome as far as powered subs go.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B007AQ2W6W/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1520480494&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rockford+punch+300&dpPl=1&dpID=51gr0hNb2TL&ref=plSrch
The primary issue with the OEM subwoofers is the price. You can pay $3-500 for a new one, and they definitely aren't worth that unless you can find one used.
I installed a Kicker 11HS8 in my 2015 WRX under the passenger seat and it worked great! That car had the base audio system and just adding that sub made a big difference (although I later upgraded the other speakers too).
Subwoofer, Amp, 8 gauge cable kit, trim removal set, Fuse taps, and T-Taps
As for a guide, I just used other guides online and pieced them together. Really should have made a well-documented one when I did it, but I installed mine 6 months ago. Already forgot certain things. Just remember to look up the speaker wire colors for the back speakers before you tap into them and know that putting the power cord through your firewall from your battery is going to be a total bitch :)
Also just to clarify, the fuse taps are for the remote wire going into the amp. I tapped the sunroof fuse as it shuts on/off with the ignition (I don't have a sunroof, but it shouldn't matter if you do or not). Also also, that black cable going into my amp on the left side is a bass knob that came with the amp. That's wired all the way up into my glove box, so it can be adjusted easily if it becomes too much. The wires with kit and everything are long enough that you shouldn't need anything else, and everything tucks away in the door seem guides so nothing is showing at all.
I’d look into upgrading the front speakers and giving them more power. You could get a four channel amplifier and power a set of component speakers up front and bridge the rear channels of the amplifier to run a 10” subwoofer (rear door speakers would run off of the factory radio). Pioneer makes a 10” pre-loaded down-firing shallow subwoofer enclosure that doesn’t take up a ton of space and you can easily load things on top of it.
Not sure what your budget or car audio installation skills are, but here’s an example of what I’d do with your CX-5 for under $500:
Component Speakers:
https://www.crutchfield.com/I-rESTcVSL/p_091ISS165/Focal-Integration-ISS-165.html?tp=106
4-Channel Amplifier:
https://www.crutchfield.com/I-rESTcVSL/p_130GMD8604/Pioneer-GM-D8604.html?tp=35782
Subwoofer:
Pioneer TS-SWX2502 10 inch Shallow-Mount Pre-Loaded Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQTU3QC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qy-EAb0AA96Y7
Mannn, you're gonna send me down a rabbit hole aren't you. That sounds very interesting. As an alternative I found this custom build: https://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/509-Another-Sub-Installation/page2
And I've had this in my Amazon wish list forever as something that should fit under the load floor without removing the spare: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQTU3QC
in that case since you have a small car I'd suggest a shallow 10", something along these lines would probably work well, although I'd get a regular box.
With subs the box is key so a bigger box would give you more bass but if space is an issue then I think this would be ok
Either way, any subwoofer will make a huge difference! Cannot recommend crutchfield enough either, they have a ton of guides as well if you want to install it yourself, which isn't that difficult - just takes a while.
This page is showing up on google results now :] Thanks for your detailed response!
Here are some answers I've found:
--
Subs will not fit in the 6x9 punchouts in the package deck. If I want a perfect fit sub, I need to make the housing myself. The Slimline by pioneer looks like it would fit well: Here (this is the 10", they make an 8" which is approximately the size of the speaker.
This one was only $115 and has a built-in amp. Add in some money/labor for a wiring kit and it's pretty cheap for how it sounds.
I'd recommend going for a real sub+amp combo, though.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00INA8PD8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1464956653&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=powerbass+subwoofer&dpPl=1&dpID=4134ADBa8vL&ref=plSrch
I can attest to the fact that this sub is can take a beating from newbies. It's got plenty of power handling and it's a great value. When i was a bass head i ran two powerbass 12 inch competition subs and they refused to die. You could also go with the 12 inch variant http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00INA8XJY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1464957007&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=powerbass+subwoofer&dpPl=1&dpID=41xxvDO8hWL&ref=plSrch which will be MARGINALLY louder, play a little bit lower (frequencies), but it will take up more room in your trunk.
For the box, i would go ported. It will maximize your volume output and also let you smell if you're burning up your sub. This guy should be fine http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013MWT9O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1464956763&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=10+inch+ported+subwoofer+box&dpPl=1&dpID=51hYLJphMpL&ref=plSrch
The amplifier is the trickiest piece. You want an amp with lots of power, but buying from a reputable brand is super important in this hobby. If you buy a cheap amp it my say "10'000 jigawatts for $50!!!) but really it's only gonna put out 100 watts and then die in a month. The amp is usually the most expensive item in a build. You want your amp to have more power than your sub can take, because if you push an amp too hard it will break your subwoofer. I would really recommend this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003AILWGK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1464957714&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=rockford+fosgate+power+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=41Ap1V91JdL&ref=plSrch but you should be ok with this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004T0YAMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1464957802&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rockford+fosgate+power+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=51Ib%2BxysflL&ref=plSrch as long as you don't push it too hard.
Hit me up with any questions
I recently overhauled my sound system in my '10 Civic SI because either the stock HU or amp was going out, and the stock sub gave out. I tried my best to stay budget friendly and I'm more than happy with my setup.
AMP I got from a friend as an open box unit, for $80.
Front and rear Speakers $40x2, came with mounting hardware and wires = $80 total.
Head unit
$70, I think the hardware for install was an additional 30$ = $100 total.
Sub Best buy has it on sale for $50.
Sealed Enclosure $30 from amazon.
That's $340 total and I did the install myself. I'm not too big into car audio all of the items I choose were due to customer reviews/ decent price point. Hope this helps.
Edit: Just realized, you referring to digital screen unit meaning a double din. Ignore all that, at that budget just get a double din and better door speakers, and upgrade as you go.
allow me to make a suggestion
this amp and this box and this sub and this wiring kit
Front
Sub
Box
Rear
Amp
Wire
You should go for the sub, it allows you to take the bass away from the door speakers and make them sound better. You don't have to crank on it, but let it fill in the bottom of your music.
~$450 shipped
I did not know of this company before your comment but unfortunately it looks like the r53 isn't supported. I found a box at a dodgey audio shop here in town for 50 bucks that seems to fit the bill. It's available on amazon for 35 and free ship but I'm sometimes impatient and wanted bass in my life again. Thanks for the suggestion at any rate.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013N0UCQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1420002811&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
This one is decent.
Item | Price
:--|:--
Alpine Type-R SWR-12D2 Subwoofer | $142
NVX JAD1200.1 Amplifier + Installation Kit | $305
NVX True Spec 1/0 Gauge Big 3 Amp Wiring Kit | $70
BBox E12SV 12-Inch Single Vented Subwoofer Enclosure | $40
Total | $557
That should be a good start. That gets your a basic enclosure (you might be happy with that, you might want to consider building a custom one or having one built), the subwoofer, amplifier, wiring to install the amplifier, and wiring to upgrade your battery and alternator cables.
I have that exact sub but I'm running it off a JL 1000/1d mono block amp. I had it in an enclosed box first and eventually moved to ported box. The ported box makes it much louder. Can't comment much on the amp you have in momd but 1000 watts is more than enough power. It's in my 2011 Mazda 3 with an aftermarket headunit and it sounds great, all that's left is to get rid of the rattles this summer! Just thought I'd share my experience with ya. Hope it helps.
Edit: here's the box I chose for it https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013N0UEE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zaVOAbD953G1C
depends on the 15s, some like a lot of air, most of the ones I've seen(including CompS) want a minimum of 3'. My single 15 has a bit over 4 to itself. Also a box like that is the same as buying or building 2 seperate boxes since they use a single port for each side and not a shared port. Like these look ok for singles. I like the separate boxes because you can move them around and if you need just a little trunk space you can remove one and still keep a little bass. in a previous car I had them like this and loved the convenience, and also miss having at least a little trunk compare to this lol. Also my box and sub weigh over 100lbs which is a PITA to get in and out of the trunk by myself.
I tend to go a bit of overkill on amps because it's better for the sub to be overpowered than it is to be underpowered. It's easy to hear when subs are bottoming out, but not so easy to hear when an amp is clipping. I'd probably stick with the MB Quart amp and if you have self control go with the comps, or save another $100 and go with this fosgate box which is 1Ω final and 1200w would make it very happy. Also 1200w is a lot easier on your car's electrical system than 2000(120A vs 200A). Lots of tough decisions, it depends more on what you're looking for. A pair of the MBQuart dual 4Ω Subs with the quart amp would go well together as well, but between the quarts and Fosgate P3s, I'd choose the P3s and they are about the same price. I'm a little biased, but for $140 each you can't go wrong with these. Here's a vid of my old 15" version of the same sub with a little over 500w going to it. My RE 15(same 600w rating) lived about 3 years with about 500w(MRP-M500 with 590w birth sheet) then went for about 4 months on my M110(1300w+ birth sheet) and didn't die until I intentionally tried to destroy it the day my Fi came. In the $200 each range I'd say Sundown SAs, in the $300 range, I love my Fi.
Not sure what you decided to go with but IMO if you get a sub in your trunk then your speakers will sound like they're better. Many people on this subreddit will bash this recommendation but I'll give it anyway.
$150 prebuilt subwoofer box
$55 amplifier
$15 wiring kit
$9 optional converter
The converter is needed if your radio is stock. I also think it makes the install easier regardless as it is one set less wire to run & you won't have to take apart your headunit.
I think this is the best intro level set up for a subwoofer if you're looking to spend about $220.
It will definitely impress you if you haven't heard/had bass in a car before. Also very easy to set up and you can do it in about 3 hours with no experience.
Edit: forgot this amp comes with a built in high/low converter to feed straight off the speakers. Converter may be easier but is optional.
If u want 2 subs which I would recommend, you can get 2 mtx tn 12 inside a premade box for 150, then buy that same Rockford amp and a wire kit and if u have a stock headunit, a loc
amp
subs and box
wire kit
line out converter, if u don't have rca's from headunit
This is the best bang for your buck and its relatives super cheap, the is practically what I have expect I fucked up and didn't get the premade box. If your not looking to win competitions but want cheap loud good bass, get these
You need either one dual 4 ohm sub or two 4 ohm single voice subs both ran in parallel and that will get you to two ohms.
The thing is though and no one has told you this so far, do not waste your money on that sub. The amp is a little suspect, I don't think for that money it's going to actually deliver 500 watts but the sub is a 100% waste of your money.
If it takes time to save more money, do that. Do it right. You will be pissed off that you wasted your money on a half ass solution and even more pissed off when you find out no one will even give you half what you paid for it originally.
Pinch your pennies, sell your blood, blow sailors down by the dock but whatever you do don't waste your money on that pioneer sub.
http://images.sonicelectronix.com/images/1265900/main/tsw310d4.jpg That is the back of it, the black part you see isn't the magnet, thats just plastic they molded to look like a magnet. The red circle you see is the actual magnet, it looks more like this http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTA2NlgxNjAw/z/UFYAAOSwDN1UTsdL/$_57.JPG
Alpine Type R fits in the price range. For a little bit over $200 you can go Sundown SA-12 . I’ve got one of these on 1500 watts in about 3 cu ft box and it pounds hard!
Head unit :some kenwood /pioneer that you like- $200ish
Front : [These ] (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_20992_JL-Audio-C2-650.html) - 250
Rears: [These] (http://www.sonicelectronix.com) -100
Sub: [this one] (http://www.amazon.com/SA-12-D4-REV-3-Sundown-Subwoofer/dp/B003ZWBG7Q)
Amp: [this] (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_64240_Kicker-CX600.1-12CX600.1.html)
Sound deadener : Stinger roadkill $100ish on sonic
I think you're right.. my old car was running a who knows how old Sony head unit, wiring that wasn't up to par according to who I bought the sub from and my box just seemed really cheap (and was sealed and small..).
I think my plan now is to do it right, put the type R in this box http://www.amazon.com/300-Enclosure-Series-318-12-Alpine/dp/B004RJ2Y6S , have my installer wire it up properly, and buy a JL amp that runs at 500 rms @ 1 ohm.
Edit: JL only runs their amps at 1.5 ohms I believe, since my type r is wired for 1 ohm does that mean I won't be getting the most out of it?
Building a box for the first time can be tough. If you think you can do it, go ahead. There are box calculators available on the Internet where you input the specifications of the subwoofer, also your alpine owner's manual will have all the info needed.
If you don't have the time, there are many good boxes available pre-fabricated. I bought this box for my gf's car when I installed my type r in her car.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004RJ2Y6S/ref=mp_s_a_1_3/178-0194102-3245564?qid=1421395516&sr=8-3&dpPl=1&dpID=51N5q9Iuv9L&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40
You might need the UK version of that.
You will see large arguments about the functions of each different type of box. To me, the both are great. I love features about each.
Sealed has a flat frequency response and the box is usually smaller. A short explanation does not mean this type is inferior to ported.
Ported has a tuned port in which the port has been tuned to a frequency (30hz-60hz typically). When the subwoofer reproduces frequencies in that range, the sound will be louder and the spl will increase. Mechanically, a ported box is more efficient in terms of heat dissipation and air flow. This means it will be nominally more efficient power wise. Boxes of this type are normally larger.
Lets talk some talk.
Good
Better
Best
Going with "Good" you're looking at a simple subwoofer upgrade.
You're going to need about 500+ Watts RMS to overcome your back seat. Then You're looking at a ported box with maybe a 12" or 2-12" subs that can each handle good power. Lets go with amazon's stuff and a Single 12" for good measure.
The Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12 @ $130
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P3D4-12-1200-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B004UFHXNI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464050827&sr=8-1&keywords=Rockford+fosgate+p3
An Atrend Box the 12SQV $65 http://www.amazon.com/Single-Vented-Square-Box-Enclosure/dp/B0007XV5G8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464050938&sr=8-1&keywords=12sqv
The Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime Amp @ $120
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464051007&sr=8-1&keywords=r500x1d
A REAL COPPER 5 Ga Wire Kit: XD-ACS60 $58 http://www.amazon.com/JL-Audio-XD-ACS60-Amplifier-Connection/dp/B0041MU7B0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464051265&sr=8-1&keywords=xd-acs60
A PROPER Line Out Converter LC2i $68
http://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-2-Channel-Converter-Subwoofer-Control/dp/B01EDFPNSG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464051367&sr=8-1&keywords=LC2i
So, This is the MINIMUM for just adding one sub, Without going with the crap out there.
You are currently at $441 of your $800 Budget Limit.
Lets calculate installation.
Labor is going to be around $264
Labor + Parts = $705
I have no idea how to make your car better with $95 except maybe put some sound deadening in your trunk.
Keep in mind, these prices are at AMAZON's.... Not retail.
$700-800 Sounds like a lot, until you realize that GOOD Labor isn't cheap.
If you think that's expensive, Go ask your dealership how much it costs to replace your alternator... JUST your alternator.
I think it all depends on what your goal for the vehicle is? Do you plan on tracking it? or just to make it a bit faster around town? Do you want it to look a little modified or stock?
Anyways, I'll link a bunch of stuff I personally prefer and in the order I would install them...
Accessories:
Step 1:
Step 2:
Step 3:
Step 4: (all maybes)
If i were you i would check out Pioneer Champion, Rockford Fosgate, or Dayton RSS.
The sundown is a strong spl sub from what i hear. I just haven't used them yet and cant give you an opinion on em other than people say that they need every bit of power you can give them. In the comments folks are saying there running 1400w rms to one, so think about that. The others i have. I am running two champions and they flex @ ~500rms each. I got them when they were on sale for like 90 a piece. Such a steal.
But to answer you question, imo, that box might not sound the best with the SA-12, or the Dayton Hos.
Thanks a ton, dude. Still new to all this. The other sub I was considering is this Rockford Fosgate. I guess I'll think it over for a bit.
I don't think you need to spend $200 on a sub if you're just adding frequency. If everything else is stock and you're not in a large SUV or van I would just go with a single 12". One of these two perhaps http://amzn.com/B0028AYIXK http://amzn.com/B004UFHXNI
But the sound quality and loudness will depend heavily on your amp - what do you have or have in mind to push the sub?
If your looking for a sub I personally have this Rockford Fosgate in my trunk that give my car more than enough bass and uses about a fraction of the space.
This one is nice. I would go for the 12. And all you need to run is power, ground, and 2 rcas 1 left and 1 right. I don't know how they wired a combined channel but I would run new RCAs from the head unit back to the powered sub.
I recommend a powered sub! I just put this in my LJ: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007AQ2W2Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and I love it! Didn't even replace the other speakers and it sounds so much better! With the top on, this thing POUNDS the inside of the Jeep, so much that I've had to turn it down when playing EDM. With the top off, even at highway speeds, the bass comes through and just makes everything sound better. I was able to run a high pass filter for the overhead and dash speakers taking the pressure off of them, making them sound louder and crisper.
This is of course an alternative to adding an amp and messing with everything, which is more hassle, more hardware to hide, more wires to run, and more money to spend. Let me know if youve got any questions.
Rockford Fosgate P300-12 Punch 300 Watt Powered Loaded 12-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EubfAbY7QGTG2
So I have a 15" Soundqubed 1200W RMS subwoofer being powered with a soundqubed 1200w amp. The sub and box are so heavy in my trunk, and I honestly don't really want to listen to it loud because it hurts my hearing.
I am wanting to go with a smaller and more light weight set up. I am torn between getting an under the seat Rockford Fosgate subwoofer, this one to be exact: https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-PS-8-Underseat-Subwoofer/dp/B00Y3WKUX8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522712591&sr=8-1&keywords=underseat+subwoofer+rockford+fosgate&dpID=51c8j4HS70L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
But then I am worried it might not be enough bass, and so I was thinking about getting a loaded enclosure and either 10" or 12", something like this https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-12-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1522712633&sr=8-2&keywords=rockford+fosgate+loaded+enclosure&dpID=51gr0hNb2TL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
Right now I have 2 kicker tweeters up from, and a 6.5" kicker 2-way speaker 60W rms each in each door. They are powered by an amp and sound really good, I just need some bass to compliment them.
Any advice on the under the seat sub? Should I get a loaded 10 or 12 inch over it, and if so...the 10 or 12? Thanks.
This will be much better for your budget you just need a amp kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_0xPAub0K3B7YD
I installed a Kicker Hideaway powered sub under the seat in my girlfriend's car about a month ago and I have to say I'm rather impressed with it for the size/cost of the thing. Installation was the same as pretty much any amp.
They're only about $230 on Amazon right now. https://www.amazon.com/Hideaway-Powered-Subwoofer-Enclosure-HS8/dp/B007LQWSYC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468463503&sr=8-1&keywords=kicker+hideaway
Depending on your head unit you might need a separate RCA cable thing they sell (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I4EBOYK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1), or a line level converter if you don't have sub-out RCAs on your head unit.
You don't need a wiring kit though. The amp comes with all the cabling you need, except for an RCA cable I believe.
I have this in my Navara, it's mounted behind the rear seats and has a bit of punch. You'll be able to wire directly to your head unit.
http://www.amazon.com/Kicker-Hideaway-Compact-Powered-Sub/dp/B007LQWSYC/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1396440666&sr=8-15&keywords=kicker+subwoofer+8%22
NEW KICKER 11HS8 8" 150W Hideaway Car Audio Powered Subwoofer Sub Enclosure HS8 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007LQWSYC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GQ.zzb4CFS7S5
This is the one I got and it's a combo, it won't blast your ears off but it gives it a more full sound.
I'm rolling on a 2017 STI base and from all the research I did when I was looking into making my sound system not sound like garbage in my car, seems the general consensus has been that these cars all have terrible head units, the stock speakers actually aren't bad (the head unit is just that bad that it makes them sound bad), and that the subaru kicker speakers are far too much money for what they deliver.
Oem audio plus even keeps the stock speakers in their solution. They do replace the tweeters though and obviously add a sub.
A simple under seat subwoofer seems a far better value to get bass into the system. You can even get a kicker for $200.
I'd ultimately suggest replacing the head unit along with getting a simple under seat subwoofer for an more even and overall solution.
I went with the Pioneer 4200NEX and a Cerwin-Vega under seat subwoofer.
Sounds pretty damn good and I now have android auto (and apple carplay if you're into that).
Here are a list of prices of the Sundown SA 12 for OP
http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/sundown-audio-sa-12-750w-sa-series.html $214
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EVZDW00/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_Z66Dyb2V7NXJB $214
http://www.woofersetc.com/p-9260-sa-12-d4-sundown-audio-12-600w-dual-4-ohm-sa-series-subwoofer.html $214
http://www.caraudiobargain.com/b-stock-sundown-audio-sa-12-600w-sa-series/ $174 Subs ordered from here may have a defect. This is Sundown bad stock store. Everything on this site will work fine but may have scuffs etc
http://www.down4soundshop.com/sa-series-12/ $214
Thanks for this info. I think it may be in my best interest to find a more powerful single sub. And I like the idea of keeping a little trunk space. this sundown sub is what I’ve been looking at, and to keep my current amp for the time being
Not sure about LOC advice, seems like a splitter could work.
What size sub is "small" for you and is shape/depth an issue?
If you're looking into a powered sub I'd suggest building something like this for ~ $100 & getting a small amp for maybe another $100 + connection gear. This is just an example, but there are plenty of prefab boxes in the $25-50 range and plenty of subs in the $30-80 range which will stomp all over a plastic mini powered sub and don't need a big sub amp.
If you need a really small sub I'd recommend a Pioneer 10" or 12" prefab like these with a small (~300 - 500w) sub amp.
Thanks to all the people who were helpful, including the ones just trying to be helpful....
I found an old thread on a Volvo forum with someone having similar issues, he replaced it with a Pioneer unit, similar to this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-Ts-sw3002s4-1500-watt-Shallow-Subwoofer/dp/B00K9854T0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464740744&sr=8-1&keywords=TS-SW3002S4
Just ordered it.
0.95 cubic feet per sub or total? If its 0.95 cubic feet total then this pioneer shallow mount is your best bet. You can get two and wire them in parallel for a final impedance of 2 ohms. Use this matching pioneer amp and you've got an el cheapo system that should sound decent.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019Z3R582/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bbSADb008NTF3?th=1&psc=1
I saw this sub to put in the back of the passengers seat. For anyone that knows about subs, is there a huge difference between the 10 in and the 8 inch? There’s a difference of 200 peak watt and 50 RMS watt between them, and idk which to choose
>Just go to Sonic Electronixs ( or any other car audio websites new people look at ) and look up brands most veterans in the industry stand by.
99% of people looking to put something in their car don't even do that. They go to Amazon and go with highly rated garbage. Seriously 76% of the 95 reviews are 5 stars.
For the amps I actually found this really cool YouTube channel that tests out budget amps to see if they are "up to Snuff" or trash.
Here is my build:
Door speakers
Package: Pair Alpine Sps-610c... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0059AK2T0?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Amp for door speakers
Dual Electronics XPR84D 2/1 High Performance Power MOSFET Class D Car Amplifier with 1,000-Watts of Dynamic Peak Power
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Dual-Electronics-XPR84D-2-1-High-Performance-Power-MOSFET-Class-D-Car-Amplifier-with-1-000-Watts-of-Dynamic-Peak-Power/137888849
Sub
Pioneer TS-SWX3002 12" Shallow-Mount Pre-Loaded Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FR5HAU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_V-c4BbJW5C6F2
Amp for Sub
Audiopipe AMPI-1500 1500 Watts 1 Channel Mono Amplifier
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Audiopipe-AMPI-1500-1500-Watts-1-Channel-Mono-Amplifier/48123860
Are you going to have rear speakers? or just fronts? and run 3 channel amp?
If you are going to have front and rear speakers. I would go with the following set up.
amp https://www.skaraudio.com/products/sk-m9005d-car-amplifier
and
sub https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-SWX3002-Shallow-Mount-Pre-Loaded-Enclosure/dp/B01FR5HAU0/ref=sr_1_40?crid=2GIYJPUPWZ95Y&keywords=10+loaded+subwoofer+box&qid=1555076614&s=gateway&sprefix=10+loaded+subwoofer+box%2Caps%2C169&sr=8-40
​
My reasoning is this. If you want space, this sub box can be placed firing down, and you can put stuff on top of it. And also by going with a 5 channel amp you can just need 1 power wire from the battery to the 1 amp, with your set up your going to have to split that wire, one to the amp and one to the powered sub. And this still meets your budget. you can probably find a cheaper 5 channel amp, or a 3 channel if your going that route. but skar is awesome for the price and the punch. i've been really happy with my skar amps.
Awesome, thank you. I'm sold on the HO. Currently looking at possibly using one of these boxes:
https://www.amazon.com/E10SV-10-Inch-Single-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013MWT9O/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1
or
https://www.amazon.com/Belva-10-inch-Subwoofer-Prelined-Polyfil/dp/B00CBO0HGK/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Looks like this one!
http://www.amazon.com/Atrend-Series-10-Inch-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013MWT9O
Just to clearly.. bridging is just connecting two outputs into one input? And yes, here's the box amp [kit] (http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KCA-Complete-Gauge-Installation/dp/B0050I6KII/ref=pd_sim_e_3)
hahaha wow okay, I'm looking for more of a balanced system, but I do want the bass to be noticeable for sure. My total budget is looking to be around 500-550. that is including buying a box and all the connecting wires. I know people who can help install it so no money there. I play much more dubstep and rap, basically nothing else. This is the box I plan to get.
What about this one
Ok, I think I'm reading it right..
Would this Be a good ported box, as far as dimensions go?
Or would it be better to get a vented box?
even this would work http://www.amazon.com/Atrend-E12S-12-Inch-Hatchback-Enclosures/dp/B0013MWTB2/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
Thank you, so i used that to find a premade box that i may just buy two of. Would this work? Seems like the size sort of matches up.
Haha, here's the box link. I'll check out that other sub and edit this in a second.
Edit: I'll think on choosing between these two or the 8" linked above until Saturday when I get my paycheck and will have enough for all of this to be ordered at once. Honestly I just don't know enough to come to a conclusion, I guess I'll compare the frequency and such specs? Reviews for both are great and I know the JBL brand (never owned, just recognize), which I've heard is important in car audio (the brand).
This box
is what I ended up with so luckily I chose one with closer to 1 cu (.90).
Also, I picked up the same Pioneer you linked to Walmart but picked up on Amazon. Looking forward to this so much.
To be honest, that is a horrific setup, avoid at all costs. That amp can and will never do "800w", try 200w max. Also, never pay attention to max ratings, those can be whatever the manufacturer wants, look for an RMS rating. If you think the terminators are bad, those are about 10x worse.
Go with O_HAI_2_U's suggestion, it will be infinitely better with one smaller quality setup, rather than two underperforming 12's. Here's a prefab box that would fit the type-r:
http://www.amazon.com/Atrend-12-Inch-Single-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013N0UEE/ref=pd_bxgy_e_img_c
The second option is closest to recommended specs
I have $300 on Amazon so I could add a couple hundred if needed but now I'm only thinking about 1 sub. I'd say $300-$400 for all of the equipment and then installation is separate.
I'm thinking of Rockford P3 600W for the sub, 12 in. Ported Enclosure as the box, and Zapco Mono Class d for the amp.
Would this work alright or should I get a different amp for only 1 sub? Also, should I get the 2 ohm sub or the 4 ohm sub? Let me know what you think.
Would this be a good enclosure
I can't seem to find the 1.5 cubic feet box. Would this one work?
Also, which would be better: Alpine SWS-12D2 or Alpine SWS-12D4
And what size of amp should I get?
Alright, I will buy Rockford Fosgate Punch P2. As far as the box goes how does this look? I am not sure how to find the right type for that sub.
http://www.amazon.com/Bbox-E12SV-12-Inch-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013N0UEE/ref=pd_sim_e_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=1GZ3QQN113ZA4BAF94XM
So basically my setup will be that box,
Amp: http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/p3001
Sub : http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P2D4-12-12-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B004UFHXIS
Speakers: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1131665S/Kenwood-KFC-1665S.html?tp=105
Stereo: http://www.amazon.com/Sony-DSXA40UI-Digital-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B00FB45SRU
Any advice to make it better, or if something is wrong is really appreciated. Thanks again for the help!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013N0UEE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 this is the box I have. I know it's not best to use prefabs but I don't have the means to build a box currently and anything bigger will not work in my situation in my car right now
anything else I could do to improve?
Oh duh, it was coming up for me since i was logged in, here ill give you my account info.
Login:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Password:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013N0UEE/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Kidding thats the sub and box respectively. Sorry dude!
I got a prefab temporarily for my SA-12 that's tuned to 33Hz, and sounds pretty good to me. Atrend Box Link
Youll have $15 left to hit up a Taco Bell
http://www.sundownaudio.com/index.php/subwoofers/item/ev3-series
is this what you mean by e series?
Also, can you recommend me speakers for my car? I only see wiring/head unit/amp/Subs
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JECAM2/ref=psdc_1294866011_t2_B00J8SV72A?th=1
4.5 rating with 1000 reviews, #1 best seller, 2 12inch w/box, good or no???
https://www.amazon.com/Hifonics-ZRX1216-1D-Subwoofer-Amplifier-1200-Watt/dp/B00T3VMUD2/ref=sr_1_1?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1485393252&sr=1-1&keywords=hifonics+amp
Looks good ?
Just trust me on this one you will absolutely love it SUBWOOFER
My Item much thanks
Great place to start. If you wanna go a little cheaper, this was my first setup
This vs. This
I would rather custom build, but if I can save $$ from a kit I'll go with that.
The alphasonik kit is pretty impressive - two 12's in a box with an 800 watt amp (1600 max) for $177. I had some alphasonik subs back in the day and they hit surprisingly hard. Any opinions?
[Subs] (http://www.amazon.com/MTX-Terminator-TNE212D-200-Watt-Enclosure/dp/B001JECAM2)
[Amp] (http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-MRV-M500-Mono-subwoofer-amplifier/dp/B00BMR7UPS/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1383005622&sr=1-1&keywords=alpine+mrv-m500)
Wire
If you have Prime all this will be under $300. If you don't I have no idea what it will be as I don't see the normal Amazon price. But this will provide very nice strong low end. Good starting base.
Thank you! Appreciate the suggestions greatly. I was able to find 2 12"s for $150 and from what I've heard these are pretty dang good. Would they work with that amp you've suggested?
MTX Audio Terminator Series TNE212D 1,200-Watt Dual 12-Inch Sub Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JECAM2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zd5RCb37NTMWF
By the looks of your post, you're focusing on adding a subwoofer to your car, and the most important piece of advice I can give is:
BUY ONLINE!
I have 2 JL W3v3's powered by a JL 500/1 series amp. I made my own box after finding the suggested dimensions online. Total cost was right around $550 about 3 years ago. You can get a really good setup for much less than that online Installation is fairly simple and there are plenty of How-To guides on the internet if you're unsure.
http://www.amazon.com/MTX-Terminator-Series-TNE212D-Enclosure/dp/B001JECAM2/ref=pd_cp_e_2
I just helped a good friend of mine set that up and it sounds pretty damn good for the price.
One question, are you looking for sound production, or sound quality?
Thanks for the input. I got the sub for $45, nowhere near the pricetag from the site but as I said it was used and the other one from the set blew in my friend's system.
That's great to know about the box too, I'll definitely be making some type of upgrade in the near future.
I'd prefer Amazon as I have a good amount left from a gift card. Do you think one of these options would be a good upgrade?
http://www.amazon.com/MTX-Terminator-TNE212D-200-Watt-Enclosure/dp/B001JECAM2/ref=reg_hu-rd_add_1_dp
Description: Dual 12-inch, Terminator-loaded sealed enclosure
Impedance: 2 ohms
Frequency response (+/- 3 dB): 41 to 150 Hz
RMS power (watts): 400
or
http://www.amazon.com/Dual-BP1204-1100-Watt-Illumination-Subwoofer/dp/B000UTMDOC/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top (I'm iffy on the "Dual" brand, Amazon has mostly good reviews but I've found some very negative reviews elsewhere. I think the Amazon crowd was just "wowed" by the lights)
and finally, this one looks like my best option considering the amp's power but again I'm not sure of the Rockford brand
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R1L-2X12-Pre-Loaded-Enclosure/dp/B001P86T74/ref=sr_1_12?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1367392434&sr=1-12&keywords=ported+box+12
Woofer Impedance: (2) 4-Ohm SVC
Internally wired in parallel to create a 2-Ohm amplifier load
Power Handling: 300 Watts RMS
600 Watts Max
---------
The other options are keeping the sub I have and buying a single 12" ported box (maybe something like this), or finally a double 12" ported box and two appropriate 12" subs for the amp. Sorry to just slap a bunch of links and questions in here, I'm really confused after looking around at the options.
Well here's the thing. I'm not an audiophile I just want the bass to rattle and be loud.
I found this MTX mentioned around the sub and was curious. I don't care about distinctive bass notes.
Is there any decent amps + wiring for $100?
I would probably say $200 max for the sub(s), amp, and box.
I listen to mostly EDM, and some rap, so would like a decent bit of bass boost, as its going into an 05 grand am that only has 4x6 and 6x9 speakers stock.
What about these ones, they're on prime sale for $120, which would leave me $80 for an amp.
Awesome- thanks for the write-up. Here's the list I had assembled that everyone shit on in /r/carAV:
amp
front speakers
subs
rear speakers
wiring:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BEQWK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_4&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FKP7TY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_image_5&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BF0DE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Didn't pick out a head unit yet. Are these choices as bad as carAV said?
http://m.bestbuy.com/m/e/product/detail.jsp?skuId=7551285&pid=1218851199236 that's the amp
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001JECAM2 those are the subs
MTX Audio TNP212D2 Terminator Power Pack Subwoofer System - Set of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003E35XGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nSilDbRAD7KVW
Line Output Convertor + 2 Channel amp + amp kit
or if you wanted something more name brand something like THIS Cheap stuff still, but better than the dual crap
I put it in the edit it might’ve not worked tho but this is the kit i got https://www.amazon.com/MTX-TNP212D2-Terminator-Subwoofer-System/dp/B003E35XGQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549067406&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=mtx+subs+and+amp+package&dpPl=1&dpID=41%2BzzsoYCrL&ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003E35XGQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1521562636&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=subwoofer+and+amp+package&dpPl=1&dpID=41%2BzzsoYCrL&ref=plSrch
Something like this? Maybe buy a wiring package + line out coverter with it?
I found this as well:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BGW8GOM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521562636&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=subwoofer+and+amp+package&dpPl=1&dpID=51JPj2PGwYL&ref=plSrch
This is $50 cheaper and includes wiring, but I'm guessing it's cheaper in the amp? Is it more worth it to buy the more expensive system with the better amp?
Also, I noticed the subwoofers I linked only go down to 40hz. Will that be an issue for deep bass?
Moar bump http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003E35XGQ/ref=s9_simh_awgw_d0_g422_i2/186-9117043-7360500?aid=aw_gw&apid=1635131742&arc=1201&arid=1NNE32W8QG6D0G1HCZN0&asn=center-6&pf_rd_i=aw_gw&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=1635131742&pf_rd_r=1NNE32W8QG6D0G1HCZN0&pf_rd_s=center-6&pf_rd_t=1201
Ok I think I will put a 12 in my backseat now. is this the amp? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XlXqzbKCMPHC0
is this a good sub for the amp? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BnXqzb188Y4KP
these wires? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050I6KII/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SoXqzbR928SJY
And is this box good? Single 12" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GUT3JOO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GpXqzbKXFSYCR
Would this sub be better since the amp is only 500 rms https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UFHXNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zqXqzb6PKAHB4
I don't have any drills or anything to make my own sub enclosure so that's why I'm asking if that box would be good enough or I can see if I can get someone to make one for me
If you're trying to keep your budget in the vicinity of $500 I'd still seriously recommend that MTX RTL package. - it's truly not a compromise - it's a very well made amplifier, efficient and well built subs in the right enclosure with the right wiring for under 5 bills delivered to your door.
If you want to double that budget and get significantly louder without compromises, an MTX TH1200.1D is a well-built CEA-rated, no joke amplifier that has no difficulty delivering 1200+ watts at 1 ohm, a pair of the Sundown SA 12's wired to 1 ohm and an Obcon Freak box... if that doesn't rattle your brain into goo, you're not human :)
So with these subs, where would I go to get a box? And since I'm an idiot, is that price for both subs or just one? And I'm not sure what you mean by, "tuned to the low 30's". Finally, if I'm getting two 750w speakers, doesn't that mean I should go for a 1500w amp?
Yea this one!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_6
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?smid=AIIZF0ROPFSE5&psc=1
I'm about to buy 1 sundown sa 12 and a box and amp after reading the reviews. This link is to a 750 watt. It says 4 ohm, but in the description it says "RE: 7/07 ohms" What am I missing? Does it mean that it's 4 ohm if wired in parallel? I went to best buy and test drove some subs the guy had and I think I'd like something ~ 750W so if I bought a sundown sa 12 750W, what amp do you think would be good with either impedance however I decided to wire it?
Subs- Sundown SA-12 $398
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415981560&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40
Amp- Rockford Fosgate R1200-1D $233
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004T0YAMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415981758&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40
Amp wiring- Knukonceptz 4awg $26
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0050I6KII/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415981794&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX200_QL40
Head unit- Look for a Alpine UTE-42bt or 52bt on eBay. I picked my 42BT up for $80.
And I would recommend building a box to the specs of the Subs. Go to here and it'll tell you http://www.sundownaudio.com/index.php/products/subwoofers/item/sa-series.html
I know it's a little over budget, but it's the best of the best. If you would like I can adjust it. Your total should be around $737 and whatever the mdf costs. You could honestly just drop one of those subs and it cost you about $538 and still sound amazing.
Alright. Yeah I can do 250. Was thinking of getting the wiring here:
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KOL-AK4
And it looks like the D4 version is the same price!
http://amzn.com/B003ZWBG7Q
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RJ2Y6S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VPa5yb06J47F1
This was my setup a few years ago
Sub
Amp
Box
I never turned the bass settings past half the power because it was ridiculous. I still miss it, the bass was extremely clean and smooth.
Ok, let's reorganize your shopping list here...
so far you have spent $400...
Let's do this a little bit differently.
Your Headunit is fine, however with most pioneers they have shitty RCA grounds (i have one) and eventually will piss you off. The stereo only has 1 set of RCA outs, which is fine for subs but if you intend on upgrading later to a 4channel amp too it would be very beneficial to start off with a proper amount of RCA's. Here would be a very similarly priced and great sounding receiver with 2 rca outs and slightly higer voltage preamps which is always nice.
Now, for your subs...don't do 2 12s just yet. Hold off on that until you can actually afford to power 2 of them with the right wattage and space required.
Do this instead:
Same brand but higher model
With this amp
and this wiring kit.
Your box unless you want to build it should be somewhere around this size
No idea what the tuning on that box is..but should be ok.
All in all it is going to be about 80 bucks more...but this will do soooo much nicer.
Thanks for the response. Looking at the Subwoofers with good ratings I found 3 models that I think would be good for me.
I could go with 2 of these
Kicker 10C124 Comp 12-Inch Subwoofer 4 SVC (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0036MOQCM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_I25mybM8C1RZ8
Or 1 of these
Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12 Punch P3 DVC 4-Ohm 12-Inch 600-Watt RMS 1200-Watt Peak Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UFHXNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_u55mybA45BVQA
Or 1 of these
12W0V3-4 - JL Audio 12" Single 4-Ohm W0V3 Series Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D5ZCDDY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_v65myb8P643ME.
All of the configurations above come to around the same price. I'm thinking one higher quality subwoofer would sound better than 2 of lower quality, correct? I'm planning on using a sealed box. Which one of these would be the best choice?
Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12 Punch P3 DVC 4-Ohm 12-Inch 600-Watt RMS 1200-Watt Peak Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UFHXNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9L28AbQPQWH9M
Have you looked into the P3s or the more budget friendly P2s? Jl also makes some nice subwoofers like the w3s.
If you plan on installing yourself, Amazon is the place. Just don't skimp on the amp quality (thermal protect and fuses) or wiring, or you could have an electrical issue on your hands and be up shit creek without a warranty. Happened to me when I bought an MTX amp off ebay years ago and it failed and smoked my subs simultaneously.
Do you plan on having a full-range amplified system? If not, you might wish to stay in the same price range but perhaps get a different sub with more modest power handling (600wrms/1200peak) that will give you more musical tightness without a boom that drowns everything else out. I personally like the RF P3D4-12 and would pair it with a P500X1bd . In some cases, if you buy a RF wiring kit, and have it installed by an RF authorized dealer, you'll get a 2 year warranty on everything.
https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-W304R-12-Inch-Component-Subwoofer/dp/B005KTRUS6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1469905324&sr=8-2&keywords=pioneer+12+inch+subwoofers
what do you think of this sub instead? http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-W304R-12-Inch-Component-Subwoofer/dp/B005KTRUS6
Ok so you can keep your stock headunit if you use a line out converter OR your amplifier has speaker level inputs. Should sound fine but its just an extra step and typically your headunit doesn't have the best equalizer. However if you're happy with it then by all means keep it, it'll be a nice factory look!
The sub you linked is a shallow mount sub which is good for saving space but not much else. Cone and driver design aren't optimal and you won't get the best bass response from it. If you can sacrifice some trunk room I like Pioneer subs. You'd have to pick up a box for it but you can find a prefab easy or even make your own out of MDF.
Edit: and yeah you can just unplug the rear speakers. If they are in the rear shelf I like to remove them if adding a sub.
There are already some 6x8's in there, ford has a funky size. I just ordered a basic wiring kit and figured I could at least the "hard" part out of the way and then decide on a setup.
For being on a budget, how does this Sub look:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KTRUS6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1WRTEG7T8P2CK
Keep in mind me entire setup is Pioneer and I am slightly OCD about brands matching. It bugs me when they don't ha.
This beast
Craigslist be like....
"Includes 6 monster 6" subs on a BA 4K amp. Will shake your fillings out. Thousands invested my loss is your gain."
$84 for 6 x
http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PLPW6D-6-Inch-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B0071HY42K/ref=br_lf_m_7hhr9bwepv7y5ee_1_1_ttl?ie=UTF8&s=car
$100 for
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0032FOKWY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1450284023&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=boss+phantom+amp&dpPl=1&dpID=41jH5OfN1XL&ref=plSrch
I don't have a spare tire in my Renegade so I took off the false floor in the back, and the thin layer above the styrofoam you're talking about, as well as all the styrofoam and stuffed this guy in between the peg that's there to hold the spare tire in place and the curved wall of the tire well. The floor panel fits flush on top of it. You can't even tell the sub is in there if the stereo is off. Sounds great too.
I had this installed yesterday on my r53 Rockford Fosgate P300-10 Punch Powered Loaded 10-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W2Q/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_JQUNub0HRBAVS and it sounds amazing! I also have an a kenwood stereo($100) and replaced the front speakers with some Polk audio($60) ones and my mini can bump!
You should be good to go from there.
An alternative option is this for the sub and sub amp:
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-10-Amplified-Subwoofer/dp/B007AQ2W2Q
If you can stretch it, this will blow away the skar monoblock and pioneer sub, and comes in a custom designed enclosure for the Rockford sub. I am a pretty big fan of this one for a bass package.
Hello all. Hopefully this is right place to post this but I'm considering getting [Rockford Fosgate P300](Rockford Fosgate P300-10 Punch Powered Loaded 10-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W2Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7eMlybWSAD857)
For my 2011 F150 super crew. Anyone have any opinions on these?
If you only have 250 and don't want to spend more..
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-10-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007AQ2W2Q
+ wiring is about as close as you will get... not including a LOC...
Dunno what sub and box the shop is using to have the cost at 200$
These are easy, cheap, and don’t take up a ton of room. My Chevy SS with a Bose system was severely lacking bass. I’m not an audio person by any means but it kicks up the bass nicely.
Rockford Fosgate P300-10 Punch Powered Loaded 10-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W2Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_35.UCbPS8RJPR
Oh, and I don't know if it helps, but here's the parts we're working with:
Enclosed Rockford sub: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007AQ2W2Q
Wiring kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CBRWZW
Front door speakers: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_109JBLG76/JBL-GT7-6.html?tp=78072
Rear door speakers: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_109JBLG76/JBL-GT7-6.html?tp=78072
Check out the Rockford Fosgate p300. It is a powered sub that comes in a 10" or 12" for a few bucks more. I just got the 12" and it is awesome. More bass than I need. I got the sub and wiring kit for right around $200. I went with this because both versions have incredibly positive reviews, the price didn't break my budget, it doesn't take up a huge amount of space, and it was my first sub install so having a single unit seemed easier.
Where I found the stereo lacked in my 12 WRX hatch, was the bass.
I put a 12 inch Rockford Fosgate in the trunk, and let the speakers only run mids and highs. It has improved the stereos sound greatly and didn't break the bank too badly.
The only thing I don't "like" about my MKVII is that it didn't come with a sub. How was your experience? Did you do it yourself or have a shop do it? What sub unit did you put in? I'm 99.9% sold on This one
but I was going to have a local car audio place install it because I hate the idea of screwing something up or having loose, rattling panels (from being removed and reinstalled) in my brand new car.
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-12-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1518320964&sr=1-1&keywords=rockford+powered+sub
https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B0058OENJ2/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1518321247&sr=8-13&keywords=ofc+amp+kit
There isn't a better deal. Dead serious. For what you want to spend, that's as close as I see anything worth owning. The amp kit isn't a fire hazard and the sub/amp is complete shit. It's not amazing, but at least you have an amp, sub and box that are going to work together for under $200 and you can add a few extra bucks to get an amp kit that won't burn your car to the ground or corrode into dust in 6 months.
Both items should have a warranty since the sub is "Sold by and ships from Amazon" and, well, an amp kit shouldn't need a warranty anyway but it's sold by Knu via Amazon so it's as legit as buying from them. Which you could probably do for the same price since it's not eligible for Prime anyway and therefore you can cut out the "middle man" as it were and let Knu keep more of the money.
Might even been enough speaker wire in the kit to use to hook up the high level inputs on the powered sub without buying anything extra and you'll have the RCA interconnects for later if you ever buy an aftermarket head unit or end up using/needing an active line output converter or integration device.
What do I need to buy to make this subwoofer work with my mixer?
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-12-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=sr_1_1?qid=1563244767&refinements=p_89%3ARockford%2BFosgate&s=car&sr=1-1&th=1
I own this already but it's in my car & I might be able to salvage the cables used I don't think that's all I'll need?
edit: I see that it has an amp built in so I've got that covered but I still need a way to power it.
edit 2: I successfully removed all the cables from my car (what a fucking task that was). So I've got all that.
I ordered a P300 by Rockford Fosgate about a year ago. It's a powered enclosure and not a separate amp + subwoofer.
I had it installed at a local Radio Active and they tapped into the factory amp. It hits well enough honestly. I find I don't need a crazy amount of bass for small hatchbacks. I probably should have mounted it to the side because it does take up quite a bit of trunk space.
If you are considering the OEM Kicker setup, I'd look at the Rockford Fosgate P300-12 Punch 300 Watt instead.
Rockford fosgate 12 in powered sub
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-12-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462394225&sr=8-1&keywords=rockford+fosgate+12+in+powered+sub
Also I replaced the front speakers with the same brand. Kept everything else stock
Will do! :) when you say P1, are you referring to this combo: Rockford Fosgate P300-12 Punch 300 Watt Powered Loaded 12-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure by Rockford Fosgate http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_Hzy2tb07YN0CV
Or this: Rockford Fosgate P1-2X12 500 Watts Dual Rms Subwoofer Enclosure by Rockford Fosgate http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004V9GR62/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_1Ay2tb1KTZ020 because I don't think that would fit in my car... Hahaha
Yes, everything still applies. I did not cover power and ground installation of the actual amp wiring kit, just the proper way to get your audip signal to your amp an sub. I'm using a powered subwoofer as well, a Rockford Fosgate P300-12.
While not necessary, its always s good practive to run your amps main power line from the battery down one side of the car, and the audio signal from your radio down the other side. This helps to eliminate the possibility of introducing DC frequency noise into your audio signal.
Rockford Fosgate P300-12 Punch 300 Watt Powered Loaded 12-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure
So if I purchased it on Amazon do they normally come with everything needed to install it? Or do they just normally assume that you have all of the wires/adapters already?
youll need around $100 for install so youre looking more at around $200 for the rest.
check Craigslist first and see if you can find a sub and amp. check the sidebar for recommended brands and stay away from cheap stuff like Boss, Pyramid, Pyle, Rockville etc..
another option is to buy sub+amp sets. like this Rockford Fosgate. something like this wont rattle the block but itll sound good in your car.
i have this sub in a 98 extended cab. takes up quite a bit of space. i can post pictures if you would like.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=twister_B00A8F4TAY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Do you not have the phone slot in the middle arm rest to stick your phone?
As for the sound system, I added a 12" powered Rockford Fostgate sub and it's night and day. Cost around $200 total and it sounds waaaaay better and has a quick release harness to easily pop the box out if I want the trunk room back.
I won't ever go back to not having an amp and sub. It really adds so much depth that the stock stereo lacked. It really makes everything sound better, podcasts, country, EDM.
This is the sub I bought.
I've never had a sub in my car, but I never knew what I was missing either. If you can afford the trunk space and like your music loud, I recommend it.
Thanks for all the responses guys. Definitely loving this subreddit, great community to be a part of. So I decided on a two-way speaker set up with a sub/amp enclosure for the trunk, and eventually in place of the soft top with a little fabrication. Speakers, sub, plus some speaker baffles and 8 gauge wire kit for the sub. I'll make sure to post a follow up, once everything's fine tuned.
edit - words
I decided to go with these speakers and this sub
I don't know how easy it is to install because I had a audio shop do mine but I replaced my front speakers with Kicker 6x9 & tweeters, backs with Kicker 6.5" speakers & installed a Kicker 11HS8 8" hideaway sub under the rear seat. It's all run by the factory head unit with a Alpine KTP-445U 4-channel Power Pack Amplifier & a AudioController LC2i to power everything & even out the sound. Sounds a lot better than the Bose system imo. Here's a couple links to some of the products I used although there's some other similar options made by other manufactures as well. I couldn't stand the regular stock stereo, you can hardly even hear the rear speakers & bass is nonexistent.
https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-11HS8-Hideaway-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007LQWSYC/ref=sr_1_1?crid=14ZVDXCI9A4A5&keywords=kicker+hideaway+11hs8&qid=1566757560&s=gateway&sprefix=kicker+hideaway%2Caps%2C408&sr=8-1
https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-KTP-445U-4-channel-Power-Amplifier/dp/B003VVYL46/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Alpine+KTP-445U&qid=1566757860&s=gateway&sr=8-1
https://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-Channel-Converter-AccuBASS-Subwoofer/dp/B00IIL0LW0/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?keywords=audio+controller+lc2i&qid=1566757904&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr1
Have you considered an under seat sub?
NEW KICKER 11HS8 8" 150W Hideaway Car Audio Powered Subwoofer Sub Enclosure HS8 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007LQWSYC
Might work?
Alternatively... if you only need the whole trunk 25% of the time maybe a small removable with a quick disconnect harness?
Its a all in one unit.
https://www.amazon.com/Hideaway-Powered-Subwoofer-Enclosure-HS8/dp/B007LQWSYC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1482809725&sr=8-4&keywords=kicker+8+inch+subwoofer
No, it’s 2 ohms in parallel. The SA 12 you linked is 4 ohms per coil, so wired in parallel it’s 2 ohms and in series it’s 8 ohms. The SA12 D2 (this one) is able to be wired down to 1 ohms. So if you get the SA-12 D2, you need a 1 ohms stable amp (the R750 I recommended is perfect) But if you get the SA-12 D4, the JX1000/1 would be nice because the sundown can handle 1000 easy. Here’s some wiring diagrams for dual 4 ohm and dual 2 ohm subs: https://imgur.com/a/KVrt9FM/
Okay everybody, sit down. Class has started. Getting into car audio can be the most intimidating thing to start. So many brands, power ratings, trying to find a compatible amp. On top of that, a lot of companies lie about there power ratings. Ok so lets start with subwoofers. When looking on amazon you will see a lot of subwoofers claiming RMS and max power. RMS is the rated watts that a subwoofer can handle. Max power rating is just a fake number companies will make to make there product sound better than it is. ( Heres an example Pyle PLPW10D 10-Inch 1000 Watt Dual 4 Ohm Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007JV7CRC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nixzybQY8YTXY ) notice how 1000 watts is in the title. If you put 1000 watts rms on that sub it wont last one min. Its rms rating says 500 watts rms. Now that subwoofer linked above is a pyle of crap. Stay away from these brands (Pyle, Planet Audio, Boss not to be confused with Bose) these are better choices ( Rockford, Pioneer, Kicker, Alpine) balls to the walls best choice ( Skar Audio, Sundown Audio) there are tons of brands but those are most common. A good rule of thumb is looking at the size of the magnet. The bigger the magnet the more power it can handle and usually better quality. (Example https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EVZDW00/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DvxzybSARDNC5 ) long story short is you get what you pay for. 30$ 500 watt sub looks to good to be true because it is. Build quality is junk and its going to sound like crap. Now if you want a good thump. I recommend staying in the 300-500 watts rms range. It wont kill the budget and you can get some decent bass. Anything higher than that, you will start to get into the car rattling range. Now back to subwoofer specs, you will see different types of ohms and voice coil configurations on subwoofers. Ohms is resistance. Lower the ohm=easier power flow, so more power can be delivered easier. Now voice coil config can get confusing. There can be one of two options on a subwoofer, single voice coil And dual voice coil. A SVC is simply one positive and one negative terminal on a subwoofer. When you have a DVC you have two positive and two negative terminals. Now the reasoning for this is with a DVC sub you can change the ohm rating on the sub itself with different wiring configurations. You can change a dual 2 ohm subwoofer to 1 ohm wiring in parallel ( http://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/1-DVC-2-ohm-mono-low-imp.jpg ) thats one example, you can raise, lower or keep it at original ohm. See with a single voice coil sub, you cant change the ohms because there are only one set of positive and negative terminals BUT you can use an identical sub and use its set of terminals to change the ohms of both subs ( http://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/2-SVC-2-ohm-mono-low-imp.jpg ) now the whole reasoning for this is because at different ohm ratings, you will get a different output on your amp. (Remember lower ohm= higher power) so heres an example ( i'm making these numbers up btw) a amp could have these listed... 8 ohm 50 watts, 4ohm 100 watts , 2ohm 200 watts, 1ohm 400 watts. Now lets say you have a dual 4 ohm 200 watt sub. You would want to wire it in parallel to change the ohms to 2 and then you will get 200 watts, which is what my fake sub was rated for. Now if you have the same sub but was a single voice coil, that wouldn't be the best amp for that sub. It would only receive 100 watts when its rated for 200. So it would be recommended to find a more compatible amp. I shouldn't have to say this but you obviously want to match watts rms with your subwoofer and amp. They say to stay in 80% - 125% of rated power of the sub. So that pretty much means if your sub is 350 watts, and you have the ohm configed to deliver 400 watts then thats fine. If its a good brand and has good build quality you can push it farther than its rated for. Like sundown audio subwoofer can be pushed 300 watts more than rated and run perfectly fine. You will know when your pushing your sub two hard. It will either make a clunk meaning it bottomed out. (It moved in or out to far) or you will smell something burning. Thats your voice coil starting to heat up. If that was to happen, turn down the bass and let it cool and adjust bass level. Now lets talk about good amplifiers, there probably going to be the most expensive item in car audio. Rule of thumb for amps is to not be cheap and don't fall for all the eye candy. The bigger and heavier the amp, the more believable the power rating is. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00011KLXE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eIyzybKGRQYJV ) something that small is no way going to output "3000" watts, you probably wouldn't get more than 500 watts. Alot of cheapo brands will put lights and crazy colors to try and attract you to there products. Thats usually a sign of junk. Make sure you look at rms power and reviews will usually say if it was a good buy. Companies like boss will even lie about rms. Now subwoofer amps are called class D amplifiers. There usually two channel or mono block meaning how many terminals there will be on the amp. You can use a multi channel amp on one sub if its strong enough. Also if your planning on wiring your sub to one ohm, make sure the amp is stable to run at one ohm. There is also bridging. When you take one positive of one channel and one negative of the other channel of the amp. So it combines the power of both channels. Amp needs to be compatible to do that. I recommend getting an amp with a bass knob but any decent brand should have one included. A good method of finding true rms of an amp is adding up fuse ratting and multiplying it by voltage. So my amp claims 1500 watts. It has no fuse but has an inline fuse by the battery ratted for 100 amps 100x12=1200 watts. 12 being average voltage, that number can fluctuate to 13.5. My amp is actually compatible up to 16 volts. 100x16=1600 watts, Most amps being only 80-90% efficient = 1500 watts. Also get a decent amp kit, if you get cheap junk, you can choke your amp. If the cables going from the battery to the amp are two small your amp can short out. And for the box, build one. Many sub manufacturers will have a recommendation for there sub, and have all the dimensions listed. If thats not your thing then you can buy one but they can be expensive. I recommend a ported box over sealed. I think thats about everything....if you have any questions, i'm here to help. Don't get discouraged, if you take the time to do it right, your 400 watts system will sound better than your buddies 3000 watt system.
I forgot to mention this but its better to over power then to under power your subwoofer. If your amp is 300 watts and your sub wants 500 then your going to have a number of problems. Your amp will produce alot of distortion and it will be under alot of stress. It will also get hot enough to cook on. Not only that but it will also damage your sub. Think about like this, your sub if built to move farther than the amp is capable of pushing it. This causes clipping and you will get loud popping sounds from your sub.
Also "professional" installers may not be the most trustworthy guys out there. Not saying there all bad but if you show them that you don't know much, they may try to sell you the junk i told you to stay away from at a premium price. The installation really isn't that difficult. Do a some research and it will only take a few hours at most
No problem. The amp and sub are still around on amazon.
Subwoofer
Amplifier They have upped the wattage on the amp to 1600 now, be careful, that is close to the limit the sub can handle.
So if I were to get something like this, is there a recommended way to secure it to the floor of the truck?
I had someone install it for me but it didn't take them more than 40 minutes or an hour. The guy placed it in the trunk on the bottom right and mounted the amp on the back of my rear seat. I haven't had any major rattling problems. Here's the sub and amp I used
BOSS Audio AR1500M Car Amplifier – 1500 Watts Max Power, 2/4 Ohm Stable, Class A/B, Monoblock, MOSFET Power Supply, Remote Subwoofer Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004S55ES6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ESDLBb74C7KN0
Pioneer TS-SWX2502 10 inch Shallow-Mount Pre-Loaded Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQTU3QC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sUDLBb74CJYAE
My doors and radio are stock but I plan on getting different speakers in a year or so
Hope this helps a little
http://www.visions.ca/catalogue/category/Details.aspx?categoryId=54&productId=21471&sku=GMD8601
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00JQTU3QC/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=YQM6GA30AQPL&coliid=I34PLZRDN6DOH0
Ok so 0 guage can be used for any wattage im assuming?
And what is your opinion on the sub i chose and this one?
I'm looking at a 2014 Mazda 6 Sport which has this dash. Looking to use this Pioneer head unit with this Metra dash kit. There's adapters so that I can keep the factory usb port and steering wheel controls. I'll probably spend the extra money buying the head unit from crutchfield for their customer support in case I need it. For speakers, I'm thinking Infinity Kappa's. I might fiberglass some tweeter pods for the sails, but if I'm feeling lazy, I'll just surface mount them to the stock sails. Gonna ignore the dash corners entirely (pretty bad speaker placement really, you can make it work with a dsp, but I don't want to spend that much....yet). I might go for a 10 inch sub in a sealed enclosure and am thinking about this pre-made box, but I also have access to a wood shop, so I might build my own sub enclosure. I haven't decided on amps on yet, but Rockford has a promotion where you buy a dual amp wiring kit and get 25% off an amp on crutchfield. Haven't done the math yet to know if I'd actually be saving money versus just buying from Amazon though.
Limited budget. Would it be recommended to go with the JBL speakers in the cheap proposed systems or with the Micca ones plus a ~$100 subwoofer (found https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=9723&AID=11051853&PID=7112509&ref=cj&utm_source=cj&utm_medium=11051853&utm_term=Skimlinks-2617611 and https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TSSWX2502-Shallow-Mount-Pre-Loaded-Enclosure/dp/B00JQTU3QC/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1502901197&sr=1-3&keywords=slim+subwoofer
were recommended)
For some background, they are for a fairly small bedroom and I have diverse music tastes but am particularly into hip-hop and electronic music. Specifically, bass heavy music so I want those low frequencies coming in pretty strong/clear. Thanks for any advice!
I replaced all the speakers in mine and it was seriously lacking bass until I put in a shallow sub. Got this sub and an amp off Craigslist. Did the trick. Gotta go for a shallow mount sub. Trunk space is limited for one in a hatch.
Trying to understand all the differences. Would this sub work?
I'm assuming I'll use 2 out of 4 channels to power it.
Jbl is always one of the top review for underseat subwoofer. What about this one, well its not really an underseat: https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-SWX2502-Shallow-Mount-Pre-Loaded-Enclosure/dp/B00JQTU3QC
If space is an issue you should look at the 10 inch pioneer shallow mounted sub.
You can get it with a box for a reasonable price and it will take a good amount of power.
Edit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JQTU3QC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485881674&sr=8-1&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=TSSWX2502
Parts so far: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KKHTMLA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AO3YTZ6BCMVCB https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NF5EQHK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A0LUG30/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1AUFI5NHGNZ61 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K9854T0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2NYACAJP9I1IY
Rockville RW10CA 10" 800 Watt Slim Low Profile Active Powered Car Subwoofer Sub https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019Z3R582/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-Ec6CbA39Q435
That’s what I ended up going with. I might end up going with a nicer setup in the future but I thought I’d see how this worked first.
Hey I just got this in my trunk and after some tuning, I am very happy with it. It gets too loud so I have to turn it down, and they are cheap enough that you could buy one for each car.
Dear OP, I was in your same spot only 4 months ago and bought this powered amp. I am already looking into getting a real amp and sub to replace it. If you are serious about the sound in your car don't get this one, or at least get a better one than this.
I will say that it is way better than having 4 speakers without the sub, but some people will want more.
Closely following this because i was about to post the same exact thread. also this might be relevent. Found what looks like a nice package on amazon. take from that what you will because im neither an audio or car guy probably like yourself. https://www.amazon.com/TNE212D-12-Inch-Loaded-Subwoofers-Package/dp/B01BGW8GOM
MTX TNE212D 12" 1200W Dual Loaded Car Subwoofers + Box + Planet 1500W Amp + Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BGW8GOM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TEAdBbWY8WFZY
This is what I was talking about. This wouldn’t be good enough?
My boot
Shallow Mount Pioneer
Let me know if you have any questions.
Also, one of the best sound upgrades I did was install Sound deadener. One of these will take car of the rear and the doors.
If space is what you need, I can vouch for this guy... I am 38 and have a baby seat in the car as well, so your mileage may vary.
A bandpass/ported box will give you more rumble and boom while a sealed box will give you a more clean knock. After owning a bandpass box for two years, switching over to sealed was a great choice. Recently bought this sealed box and couldn't be happier.
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BBox apparently makes a good bandpass box as well, however can't say I've tried.
Thanks
Im still new to brands, havnt been in this hobby for that long to absorb all the reviews. What are the cheap/unreliable brands that i should stay away from? Im tempted to buy cheap but dont want it to blow up and smoke lol i want something stable.
I was thinking something like this for subs -https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JECAM2/ref=psdc_2230642011_t2_B06XDHP82F?th=1
And slap on some kinda amp like this - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004S4XKYC/ref=psdc_2230642011_t2_B00T3QBLYG?th=1
those speakers you linked were actually a different set then i bought. definitely has a higher power rating then mine. so i believe the ones i got are indeed 65watt rms, 120 peak.
so since i was always running it at 95% power (47-50 out of 50) you think me pushing it at that high of power blew the speakers? i did notice alot of distortion (probably clipping), so perhaps i did blow them. oh balls. damn. wish there was a way in the headunit to force it to only use 45ish of the 50, so i couldnt accidentally break them.
so its more then likely i ruined 3 of them.
I did actually reorder the polk db651,, and will replace both of them just because. do you think i should use some weatherstripping between where i screw it in to seal it a bit better. also, what your thought on sealing it afterwords with latex or silicone caulk?
i also bought 2 of these pyle 6 inch sub
do you think even though im throwing it in the rear speaker placements, in what is i believe an open air install ( no boxes, just going to screw right in where the stock paper speakers were), if i sealed that it would be better then those shitty midwoofers? do you think maybe i should buy a small speaker baffle and then screw them in? or is there a diy baffle like enclosure that isnt to complicated to help seal in the woofers?
oh yeah, my girlfriend does have those 2 6x9s, each in a seperate enclosure! no idea which ones they are, but do you believe maybe a 2 channel amp with maybe 500-700 watts would work? id assume those 6x9s are 4 ohm. can you suggest or link me to a amp youd reccomend? i dont wanna spend an arm and a leg (most is like 80-100 bucks.)
all 4 speaker placements in my car are the 6/6.5 sizes. so i really cant do much.
thanks for the help man. i really appreciate your responses.
First, replace the head unit. You can do this for less than $100. Example: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130X6800BS/Pioneer-DEH-X6800BS.html?tp=5684&avf=Y order this and you'll get the dash kit and wiring harness for free.
Next, add some bass. Get this subwoofer/amp combo, it's the best you'll get on a budget. With a new head unit, you'll get RCA outputs for the sub.