Most of it can be found on amazon:

- MJVO-3 3-Way Valve, Normally-Open, 1/8" NPT

-1/4'' OD tubing

-1/8'' NPT male and female connectors

-HPA tank with SLP regulator

-second stage regulator with at least a 300 maximum input psi (not on amazon, check paintball stores. Mine was second hand off ebay)

-paintball remote line quick disconnect (male and female)

-some good epoxy

-XBZ tank (ebay)

-1'' PVC end cap and 1'' inch PVC pipe for modifying your XBZ tank

-you'll also need a drill, dremel, and something to tighten down your NPT connectors

​

I also used COBBA Crazy's youtube channel a lot. He has a video breaking down how he made his LPA/HPA longstrike and it's super helpful and pretty straightforward.

The biggest contributor to the amount of foam is the flow rate out of the tap. To reduce the foam, reduce the flow rate. You're using 11 PSI with a 5 ft line, which sounds like it would pour really fast.

Option 1: Lower pressure for serving

Bleed pressure from keg and set regulator to 2-5 PSI when serving. Re-pressurize when not serving so the beer doesn't go flat.

Pros: No extra equipment required.

Cons: Incredibly wasteful in terms of CO2. Using this method, I blasted through roughly a third of a 5# tank dispensing just one keg.

Option 2: Adjust beer line length

Make the line length longer according to the style of beer, to compensate for high pressure in the keg. This has to do with fluid dynamics. There is info available on this if you search; I remember seeing posts on this a few weeks ago.

Pros: simple, effective, and inexpensive

Cons: Requires a lot of cutting and re-clamping of beer lines for each different style of beer; no way of doing fine tuning of flow rate for more or less head; requires keeping a bigger inventory of tubing for different styles.

Option 3: Flow control

Put something in your draft system that allows you to adjust the flow rate without attaching/reattaching anything.

Pros: easy to control, less hassle/mess. Just turn a dial and get the flow rate exactly what you want it to be, to perform on-the-spot adjustments for the perfect pour.

Cons: more expensive, although I've seen plastic inline flow controllers like this $2.50 USD one

I have the Perlick 650SS tap on my kegerator and it works like a charm. If you're using a picnic tap or want to use a tap without built-in flow control, and you want something nice, you can get an inline flow control compensator like the one made by CM Becker, or (less expensive but still solid) make one using a stainless steel NPT ball valve and two hose barbs (clamps and plumber's tape not included).

Edit: info/links

LOL :) That list is shorter ...

You'll need a pressure gauge, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0087UCI8C/ has a relatively low maximum for high sensitivity (easy to see if there's a drop)

You'll need a valve you can hook a hand pump on to (like what you'd use to pump up a bike tire -- I don't recommend an electric pump because of the low pressure you need). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PLI4BA/ is in the same threading as the gauge.

You'll need a tee to connect these things to -- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQUTBS/

Finally, connecting the tee to your rig. I take a scrap of tubing, put a fitting on one end, and slip the other over: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CFNKBO/ (check for your tube's inside diameter!).

Ever thought of something like this: http://www.adafruit.com/products/997 with a smaller spout to limit the flow or just this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007D1U64E/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?qid=1373166510&sr=1-7&pi=AC_SX112_SY192 (sorry about links, on my phone).

The issue is the amount of force you need to hold back the ball in the bearing option. You will need a decent amount of current to make a field strong enough to hold that bearing up and hold the fluid back. It is doable but a complete waste of power since this thing will be off 95% of the time.

Contains 100psi pump, 4 gallon pressure tank, analog pressure sensors before and after solenoid, flow meter, general shutoff and 3 individual shutoffs.

I'm going to connect an Arduino based board that I've built. It has an Ethernet connection to report pressure and flow data to a remote server.

EDIT: Added parts list

Storage tank: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q798N8E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pressure relief valve 125 psi: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081TJISW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

12V solenoid: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071RYT994/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Flow meter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D44N41U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pressure gauge: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0124FAV6Q/ref=od_aui_detailpages02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pump: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017NVG1I8/ref=od_aui_detailpages02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Analog pressure sensor 1: http://www.ebay.com/itm/G1-4-inch-5V-0-1-2-MPa-Pressure-Transducer-Sensor-Oil-Fuel-Diesel-Gas-Water-Air/321801631422?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Analog pressure sensor 2: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pressure-transducer-or-sender-5V-Stainless-Steel-for-Oil-Fuel-Air-Water/132258293597?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=431588849346&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I just made a little u-bend out of (these) (three) (pieces) and run silicone tubing from a ball valve on my solar pump output to the u-bend, then hook it over the edge of my kettle.

You can also get something like a recirculation arm for more efficient whirlpooling or a locline recirculation kit. I haven't used either of these but they look cool

What you want is a Bulkhead Fitting. It makes a hole on a flat surface and allows you to attach PVC parts to it. I would say you add this right under the lip of the top pond and put ~1' length of PVC pipe on it. The water will fill to the pipe then drain out into the pond below. The only real consideration is the strength of the plastic and the length of the pipe. You wouldn't want to crack the pond.

I actually didn't tally up the cost as that wasn't really of a concern to me, but I'll try my best to provide links to the things I bought for this. Feel free to add it up for me!

• Lighting
  
  • T-5 Grow light (came with 6500K bulbs)
    
  • 2700K bulbs
    
  • Grow light hangers
    
• Grow medium
  
  • Net Cups
    
  • Black Buckets
    
  • Black lids
    
• Nutrients
  
  • General Hydroponics Flora Series
    
  • General Hydroponics pH control kit
    
  • pH/EC/Temp Meters
    
• Grow tent
  
• Air ventilation
  
  • The only thing I ended up using from this kit was the cheapest part, the ventilation duct...
    
  • The fan from this kit is way too powerful for my setup because my humidifier couldn't keep up
    
  • I didn't use the carbon filter because I'm not growing weed.
    
• Water Distiller
  
• Humidifier
  
  • The cheaper the humidifier, the better. I first bought (and destroyed) one that had some sort of digital switch, so it would always be in the off state when you first supply power to it, meaning you can't turn it on/off with just a relay.
    
• Plumbing
  
  • Aquatec 8852 booster pump
    
  • 2 Gallon accumulator tank
    
  • Pressure relief valve
    
  • Tubing
    
  • Inline Pre-filter (Sorry they must have taken the product down...)
    
  • Misting nozzle T's
    
  • Tube ball valves
    
  • Analog pressure gauge
    
  • Misting Nozzles
    
    • Note that these nozzles are meant for WAY higher pressure systems (~1000psi) and I actually had to take out the spring for them to operate correctly, but they never clogged up, are easy to clean, and worked perfectly for me!
      
• Electronics
  
  • Raspberry Pi 3 kit
    
  • Humidity sensor
    
  • Pressure sensor
    
  • Water solenoid valve
    
  • 5V 4-channel relay module
    
  • Analog-to-digital converter
    
  • 24V to 12V converter
    
  • 24V Power supply
    
  • Resistor kit
    
  • Semiconductor kit
    
  • Circuit boards
    
  • Standoffs
    
• Wiring
  
  • 22 gauge stranded wire
    
  • 22 gauge solid wire
    
  • Power supply cord
    
• Connectors
  
  • Electronic Connectors
    
    • JST-XHP Connectors
      
    • JST-SM Connectors
      
    • Dupont Connectors
      
  • Plumbing Connectors
    
    • Bulkhead connectors
      
    • Quick-connect kit
      
    • NPT to quick-connect connector
      
      I also bought various tools, like crimpers, Dremel kit, drill, etc, but I don't consider those to be project-specific as I'll have them for the foreseeable future. Let me know if there's anything you see that you think I missed!
      

Quick search seems to confirm 3/4" x 16tpi. This is the adaptor you need:

https://www.amazon.com/NOVA-I9NS-4-Inch-Thread-Adaptor/dp/B0064JJ88Q

Alright, The wood, nuts, bolts, screw, L brackets, plastic, plexi-glass, wire, air compressor, duct work reducer (to create funnel), and pail can all be bought at a hardware store outlet. (I had most of those all on hand)

Everything else

Pneumatic cylinder -crusher 25$

loading cylinder 30$

Solenoids 20$

6mm quick connect fittings 15$ you may need to order a converter or adapter to fit the crushing cylinder. I think its 1/4" fittings, so you could order those too but be sure to check

6mm Pneumatic hose 12$

6mm T splitter 6$

Air Pressure Regulator 10$ use to regulate the air to the loading piston as it runs at a lower psi/ can be slowed down some as well.

Shut off valve 6$

Quick connect to airline 6$ What you need may be different. Depending on your set up.

Arduino Uno 15$

12V Power supply 7$

12V to 9V 6$

158$ + construction materials that shouldn't cost more than 50$

Note: Some of this may be found else where for cheaper, but at least you know what you are looking for. Also I rounded everything up.

Let me know if this helps at all.

Edit: Its also helpful to have someone who can weld, so that cost has to be factored in as well. I traded work for work.

If it helps here are some of the key parts I got:

1/8 BSP QEV

16g co2 regulator

3/2 valve

1/8 bsp 6mm push-to-fit hose connector

6mm PU pneumatic hose

1/8 bsp elbow

1/8 bsp 6mm push to fit elbow

AN4(aka UNF 7/16) to 1/8 BSP adapter

That last thing is used to change the regulator output from its funny UNF thread to BSP thread.

What I think you're looking for is a bulkhead fitting like this, usually installed so the threaded part is facing the inside but you could mount it the other way and get a cap that screws onto it.

You could also use something like this a cable gland but grab a closed end sealing nut to make it into a cap.

I'll go in order from the CO2 tank down the line:

• 10lb Aluminum tank, bought at local welding/gas supply
  
  
• This 2-stage CO2 Regulator
  
  
• Replaced the output fitting with one of these
  
  
• Then I have a smaller regulator reduce the line pressure down to a stable 15 psi - I find that the more regs, the better for stable pressure.
  
  
• That leads to two solenoids, one for each tank. You can buy the cheapish milwakee one, or anything that uses 1/4" npt fittings if you can find a better deal.
  
  
• After each solenoid I have a T-junction to a gas pressure sensor reading back to my controller, and the other outlet to the final regulator. You can use the one above, or one of these
  
  
• No need for a needle valve at this point. Go to your bubble counter and then up to your tank.
  
  
• On my big tank I am using a reactor instead of the normal ceramic diffuser I have on the small one.

Hey friend. you're on the right track with your idea to drill a hole and plumb it to a larger tank. Be careful when you choose the spot to drill. You don't want to drill in to a very round side, as that will be harder to make watertight. i would recommend trying to find a nice flat spot, just below the max fill of that unit's tank, and then drilling a hole for a bulkhead fitting(so that its watertight) and then just attach a hose to the drain end of the fitting and you can just set the other end of the hose in to a 5 gallon bucket below the unit or something.


a 1/2 bulkhead fitting is less than 5$ on amazon(also might not hurt to look around for a smaller sized one of these, as a 1 1/2" hole may be kind of big for this small tank) i only looked around for a second.
https://www.amazon.com/Lifegard-Aquatics-Standard-Threaded-Bulkhead/dp/B0002Z7U1K/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=bulkhead+drain+with+gasket&qid=1565284477&s=gateway&sr=8-15


If you go with this route, i would get a step bit (drill bit for drilling a precise hole by gradually widening it)
https://www.amazon.com/Knoweasy-Sizes-Titanium-Drill-Drilling/dp/B07NKXLTCB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=step+bit&qid=1565284634&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyMEU0WExMM0Y1NUNZJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDQzOTM5RjNOQkZRRFgzUVFXJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwODExNDgyUEtUR1lBS1NJNzM4JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==


then you would just need a female 1/2 thread to 1/4" barbed fitting and some 1/4 tubing to run to the bucket. I have similar setups to this for top-off tanks in my hydro systems. If you need any help figuring it out and sourcing parts, just shoot me a message!


Best of luck!!

I just set up something similar to automate watering of some trees we just planted that are on a drip line hooked up to a spigot. I used one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PVQFTHW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fbXdBbJZ06AT0

Plugged into one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAO4B9Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-dXdBb8ZM1Q55

Works great and no batteries. Ends up to be about the same price.

Edit: this is plumbed inside my house. Pretty sure neither of these products are rated for outdoor use.

I'm pretty slammed schedule wise right now. I'll get some pictures if I can, but it may take a while before I can get to it.

It isn't complicated though. I welded one of these to one of these. The previously-linked element screws into that. I took an air-conditioner extension cord and cut the female end off. I wired the black and white wires to the two terminals on the element, then used a rubber fitting to cover the whole thing for safety. The green wire I left long and hanging out with a screw terminal on it.

On the keg itself, I cut a hole in the side of it with a hole saw to match the inner diameter of the ferrule (second link above) as close to the bottom as I could. My keg has a rubber bottom so I had to come up just a little. I welded the ferrule to the keg. I also welded a small stainless machine screw to it.

To use it, I attach the assembled heater unit to the keg using a PTFE gasket and tri-clamp. I take that ground wire and attach it to the stainless screw nut, that way there is always a good ground attached to the keg. Put your wash in, plug it in to a 110v outlet, and you're up and running.

If you want to try to weld it all yourself, do some reading up on TIG welding stainless steel. It's a different beast. This was my first real welding project, and I chose stainless of all things to start with! It isn't pretty, but it is water tight and serves it's purpose. I learned a TON and hopefully will improve a lot when I start another project.

Do you mean 1/4 barrel? I'm making a Boka out of a 1/2 barrel keg (15.5 gal). Here's what I've bought:

5' of 2" copper DVW pipe - Local hardware store
25' of 1/4" copper refrigeration coil - Local hardware store
Stainless steel pot-scrubbers - Walmart

Clamp ferrule:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00835O0J6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1500W heating element: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006IX89Q/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fitting for heating element:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003GSL0S4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Triclamp:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ED2EZCK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Triclamp gasket: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013S1M75I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thermometer:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0198473E4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A24QHZSKPYNZBC

Flux:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000V88WJW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lead-free solder: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JM8D6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I am going to start by forgoing the Liebig condenser as I don't think its terribly necessary and it can always be added easily just after the compression-fitted valve. The hardest part was finding 5' of copper pipe, everyplace wanted to sell me 10' and the prices were all over the place.

Hope this helps!

This one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018X2XT4/
And this adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AB5X28G/

No problem. I just checked mine, and the threading is 3/4 inch 16 thread. Because this is a bit of a strange size I had to get an adapter to make my nova chuck fit. You might have to do the same when you get a chuck. Mine has a mt1 tail stock, so my drill chuck is mt1.

I looked it up, and it appears that your lathe has the same specs as mine,but I make no promises.

By the way, good luck with your turning.

>do you have any clamps/ gaskets you could suggest?


I just search for 2" Tri clamp on amazon and get what's cheapest. mind you it took me maybe a year to get all the pieces together when I built my system. something similar to these ones with the ferrules and the PTFE gaskets are great. I got a couple of those. there is a thing some guys do with certain wall thicknesses of copper where they can press fit the SS ferrule onto the pipe by freezing the SS and heating up the copper.

>Also can I pester you once I start putting all these components together?


please do. I'd be happy to see how your progress goes.

I ferment in 10 gallon cornies and I just built myself a spunding valve to use as a test. Wasn't that hard the main bit is the valve itself, which I got off Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007GDY3CU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002FYI58S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQUTBS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And then some fiddly bits to go from the Tee to the QD for the keg.

The only piece I had to fabricate is the little black cube in the top. I made that from a piece of 1/2" acrylic. I drilled a 90 degree hole into the top and side of it. Then used epoxy to attach it to the fan with the wires going through it. I had to snip the wire adapter off to do this. The holes I drilled into the cube were the exact same diameter of the male piece of the quick connect barb. This kept it snug but also allowed it to rotate in the hole.

Next, I then fished the wires through the quick connect fittings and through the quick connect bulkhead. After the wiring was all the way though, i re-soldered the wire adapter and used heat shrink tubing to seal it all together.

Once everything was wired up I connected the fans to a 4 channel PC fan controller and fired it up. I do have to say I am very happy with the results.fan closeups

All parts were bought on amazon or ebay. Mistkings fittings while black are nice, they are very expensive compared to the white ones I found on amazon. The fans were bought on ebay and were very cheap. I estimate I built 4 of the fans for about $30.00 USD

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vktech-5Pcs-Black-Brushless-DC-Cooling-Blower-Fan-5015S-5V-0-1-0-3A-50x15mm-/183518100748?hash=item2aba87fd0c


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YGR2ILM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZ2PLCR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just bought these and they're threaded on both sides so that what you linked to (or these which I also bought) should fit. I put them on some 5gal buckets and the seal is working great. Pretty happy with the setup so far :)

I use an aeotec plug:
Aeotec Smart Switch 6, remote control smart plug, Z-Wave Plus, small size, side USB charging port, power metering https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VQISOCG/


With a ball valve like this:
BACOENG 3/4" 110V/220V NC Motorized Ball Valve, NO/NC 2/3 Way BRASS/SS 1/2"-1" Available https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PVQFTHW/

Another thread suggested this 20w pump with this fitting and I've been happy with it for the 6 months I've had it. I run my pump 24/7 to keep the water circulating and so far still working fine

These:

https://www.amazon.com/Dixon-DC20S-Interchange-Quick-Connect-Coupling/dp/B00835GNUA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Dixon+stainless+quick+connect&qid=1566216607&s=gateway&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Dixon-Valve-Coupling-DCP21S-Quick-Connect/dp/B00835H2SM/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=Dixon+stainless+quick+connect&qid=1566216648&s=gateway&sr=8-7

plus some of these for spots where you can't or don't want to use a threaded plug:

https://www.gwkent.com/pneumatic-plug-tc-adaptor.html

I didn't buy anything for it except this. I haven't gotten around to messing with the temperature, so if thats something your worried about then i can see it.

Works just fine straight from the box from my experience.

I think you're looking for bulkheads (like this https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0002DKANM). Usually they are set up for either glued or threaded PVC pipe. If you go with threaded bulkheads, you can get barbed adapters (https://www.homedepot.ca/product/1000117559) so you can use flexible tubing with them. Make sure to use teflon thread tape on all threaded joints or they will leak.


Keep in mind that bulkheads only work on flat surfaces, not curved. If you want to pass pipe through a curved surface, you can use a uniseal.

Then why aren't you just using a bulkhead fitting? Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Lifegard-Aquatics-Standard-Threaded-Bulkhead/dp/B0002Z7U1K/ref=lp_700755011_1_6?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1565222743&sr=1-6

with a threaded plug should be reasonably waterproof.

I think the water you are seeing is just the trap, which is perfectly normal. If you pour bleach or plain water down occasionally, the smell should go away.

IMO it probably won't affect your health at all, but if you're still concerned, you could consider plugging it with something like this.

Since we are all talking about Prime, I am going to do a shameless plug for a tool that I wrote for all the prime-a-holics like me -- www.sortbyprime.com. With its help I can for once feel that I am taking advantage of Prime instead of Prime taking advantage of me.

Here are the things you can do with it (kindly written up by /u/cheresier):


Filter search results by Prime price. It is important to note that this is NOT the same as checking the Prime box on the regular Amazon search results page and using the price filters there. When you use Amazon native functionality and, say, specify your desired price range between 0 and 25 dollars and check the Prime box, you will get all items that have the lowest marketplace offer within that range. Prime price in that scenario may be greater than 25, but as long as there is a non-Prime seller with a listing within the range that you specified (not including shipping), the item will be included in search results. When you use the price range filter on sbp, you get ONLY items with a Prime price within that range.

Sort by prime price (I guess that is where the name of the site comes from). Again, this is not the same as just sorting by price on the Amazon page and checking the Prime box. Similar to the explanation above, when you use Amazon's built-in search you are effectively sorting by lowest offer on each item excluding shipping. All the Prime check box does there is display the Prime price on search results, which is why the sorting always appears broken.
Exclude Prime Pantry items. The introduction of Prime Pantry on Amazon always annoyed me. While I understand that the program has a certain value, the inability to exclude Pantry items from search results always drove me nuts and there seemingly no way to filter them out. Sbp was the only tool I found that provides you with the option to exclude Pantry items from search results.

Lastly, this is not really a feature, but more of a side effect of how the tool is designed, I like that I can configure all my settings before opening the Amazon window, therefore saving the multiple postbacks of the entire page to get all the search parameters just right.
Now, here are some recipes for cool things you can do on sortbyprime.

Find thousands of free Kindle books:

1. Select "Kindle Store" in the Department dropdown.
   
2. Enter "-subscription" (note the minus sign in front) to exclude magazine subscriptions.
   
3. Enter 0.01 in the Price To textbox.
   
4. Select "All Merchants" in the Merchant dropdown,
   
5. Hit the Go button and enjoy ~75,000 free Kindle eBooks.
   
   Find all Prime-delivered items that can be yours for less than the price of a postage stamp:
   
6. Make sure "All Departments" is selected in the Department dropdown.
   
7. Enter 0.02 in the Prime Price From textbox (to filter out free digital content) and 0.49 in the Prime Price To textbox (or any amount you like, I am entering the current price of a stamp for the sake of making a point).
   
8. Make sure the Merchant dropdown is set to "Amazon".
   
9. In the Add-On Items dropdown select "Exclude".
   
10. In the Prime Pantry Items dropdown select "Exclude".
    
11. Hit the Go button and enjoy your PVC Pipe Fitting (http://www.amazon.com/GF-Piping-Systems-Reducing-Schedule/dp/B008O1XHF2/) for 10 cents delivered to your house.
    
    Find cheap Subscribe & Save items to get the 15% S&S discount:
    
12. Make sure "All Departments" is selected in the Department dropdown.
    
13. Enter 1.50 in the Prime Price To textbox.
    
14. Make sure the Merchant dropdown is set to "Amazon".
    
15. In the Subscribe & Save Items Only dropdown select "Yes".
    
16. Hit the Go button and save 15% on your entire S&S delivery when you subscribe to 5 or more items.
    

>Recently I clicked on a sponsored post that claimed that there is a way to hack Amazon search functionality and force it to do undocumented things. The link pointed to a site called SortByPrime (http://www.sortbyprime.com). I was skeptical at first, but after using the site for a few weeks I must say it is indeed pretty amazing. The site itself is bare bones with no documentation provided, so I thought I would write up some of the things that I learned to do with that tool in order to make the most out of my Prime membership.
>
>First, here are the features that I find myself using the most (I tried to find other tools with similar functionality to verify sbp's exclusivity claim and couldn't find any).
>
>Filter search results by Prime price. It is important to note that this is NOT the same as checking the Prime box on the regular Amazon search results page and using the price filters there. When you use Amazon native functionality and, say, specify your desired price range between 0 and 25 dollars and check the Prime box, you will get all items that have the lowest marketplace offer within that range. Prime price in that scenario may be greater than 25, but as long as there is a non-Prime seller with a listing within the range that you specified (not including shipping), the item will be included in search results. When you use the price range filter on sbp, you get ONLY items with a Prime price within that range.
>
>Sort by prime price (I guess that is where the name of the site comes from). Again, this is not the same as just sorting by price on the Amazon page and checking the Prime box. Similar to the explanation above, when you use Amazon's built-in search you are effectively sorting by lowest offer on each item excluding shipping. All the Prime check box does there is display the Prime price on search results, which is why the sorting always appears broken.
>Exclude Prime Pantry items. The introduction of Prime Pantry on Amazon always annoyed me. While I understand that the program has a certain value, the inability to exclude Pantry items from search results always drove me nuts and there seemingly no way to filter them out. Sbp was the only tool I found that provides you with the option to exclude Pantry items from search results.
>
>Lastly, this is not really a feature, but more of a side effect of how the tool is designed, I like that I can configure all my settings before opening the Amazon window, therefore saving the multiple postbacks of the entire page to get all the search parameters just right.
>Now, here are some recipes for cool things you can do on sortbyprime.
>
>Find thousands of free Kindle books:
>1. Select "Kindle Store" in the Department dropdown.
>2. Enter "-subscription" (note the minus sign in front) to exclude magazine subscriptions.
>3. Enter 0.01 in the Price To textbox.
>4. Select "All Merchants" in the Merchant dropdown,
>5. Hit the Go button and enjoy ~75,000 free Kindle eBooks.
>
>Find all Prime-delivered items that can be yours for less than the price of a postage stamp:
>1. Make sure "All Departments" is selected in the Department dropdown.
>2. Enter 0.02 in the Prime Price From textbox (to filter out free digital content) and 0.49 in the Prime Price To textbox (or any amount you like, I am entering the current price of a stamp for the sake of making a point).
>3. Make sure the Merchant dropdown is set to "Amazon".
>4. In the Add-On Items dropdown select "Exclude".
>5. In the Prime Pantry Items dropdown select "Exclude".
>6. Hit the Go button and enjoy your PVC Pipe Fitting (http://www.amazon.com/GF-Piping-Systems-Reducing-Schedule/dp/B008O1XHF2/) for 10 cents delivered to your house.
>
>Find cheap Subscribe & Save items to get the 15% S&S discount:
>1. Make sure "All Departments" is selected in the Department dropdown.
>2. Enter 1.50 in the Prime Price To textbox.
>3. Make sure the Merchant dropdown is set to "Amazon".
>4. In the Subscribe & Save Items Only dropdown select "Yes".
>5. Hit the Go button and save 15% on your entire S&S delivery when you subscribe to 5 or more items.
>
>Sorry if you guys already know all this, but I thought I'd share.

Solenoid before your regulator should work, I think. Maybe somebody can correct me if I'm wrong.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C2DVD2W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YdXTAbP7WJ28G

It looks like you're trying to bubba a weldless bulkhead.


http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Homebrewing-and-Winemaking-Supplies/dp/B0064OFGLO

It also looks like you're trying to use a hex nut as the connector that structurally supports two threaded pipe sections. This would work, provided you brazed the pipe sections to the hex nut, but Gluing them together probably won't work. You could epoxy them together, but I wouldn't expose epoxy to hot solvent vapors that are intended for consumption.

If I were you, I'd take the male side (which also has a female port on the opposite side, which you can see in the picture of the link, below) of a lead-free brass pipe union
http://www.amazon.com/Brass-Fitting-Union-Class-Female/dp/B004XEKWSY/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1463615762&sr=1-2&keywords=pipe+union+copper
and stick it in the hole you drilled for the "threaded nipple bolts" in your drawing. Braze it to the lid with silver solder using a TON of flux and a map gas torch, and then get a NPT threaded sanitary flange to connect to your vapor pathway. make sure you ptfe tape the NPT connection

Get a new, working solenoid or repair your old one. They‘re not that expensive.

Think I decided on heat set up.

this heater Heater comes triclamp ready with an endcap for 53 bucks

with this ferrule / triclamp kit
2 2" ferrules & 1 2" clamp for $15 delivered. The other 2 ferrules will be saved for a reflux later if this hobby sticks with me.


Thanks for your input, it really helped me decide... Off to study temp controllers. I noticed you linking to the stilldragon controller awhile back. The one you posted... was it the large or medium? The pics both look the same on the ausi site.

Here looks like a good place to start. You might find it in the related products, too.

Can you also recommend a ball valve? I'm having trouble determining if ones are food safe or not. Would this one work? From what I've [read] (http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/how-to/g1580/how-to-build-your-own-home-brewing-mash-tun/) I believe 3/4" is the size I need. Then I just need the two washers and the nut.
Also in the guide I linked, I'm confused about the 1" nut for use on the 3/4" nipple, is that a typo?
Also looking through more guides, half seem to be using 1/2" ball valves, and half seem to be using 3/4". Can I use either for a 10gal cooler?

Hi TaintTrauma,

Thank you for your suggestion. for ball valve, is this one good:
Dixon FBVG75 Brass Ball Valve, 3/4" NPT Female

https://www.amazon.com/Dixon-FBVG75-Brass-Valve-Female/dp/B0081LIH4Q/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1494730812&sr=1-2&refinements=p_72%3A1248921011%2Cp_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A3071257011&th=1

what's the reason to install the prv after the meter, but before 2nd valve (the newly installed ball valve)? is it because the high pressure will put pressure and cause damage to 2nd valve?

I will call plumber to do it. don't want to mess with water :)

Thank you!

Get a temp probe for your kettle. This one is pretty cheap, and another $10 for the bulkhead adapter.

I think I've got it figured out, but I could use a help figuring out / confirming the parts and connections for a recirculating line cleaner for my keezer.


When I purchased the Mark II Keg & Carboy Washer it came with an inline attachment for the post that allows you to connect tubing on the side. I've done that and attached a swivel nut with a 1/4" barb so that I can hook up a gas or liquid disconnect and divert some of the flow into the gas or liquid dip tube while cleaning a keg.


Using the same pump and the abovementioned setup, would getting a pair of these (is this the right size threading?) and attaching them to either end of a length of tubing do the job? This would, in theory, connect the swivel nut at the end of the keg washer tube to the swivel nut of the beverage line that runs to a tap faucet (after removing the quick disconnect).

edit: to point to a different hose fitting (1/4" NPT rather than 1/8" NPT)

Check this out. It's not as cheap as you were hoping, but it is cheaper than what you found. For 64 of them shipping works out to about $18 where I'm at.