(Part 2) Best fuel transfer & lubrication products according to redditors
We found 202 Reddit comments discussing the best fuel transfer & lubrication products. We ranked the 103 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
Since you listed zero requirements I'm going to recommend a Lincoln Lubrication 1134 Heavy Duty Pistol Grip Grease Gun and a tube of your preferred grease. I bought one several years ago so I didn't have to drive to my parents house to use my dad's. They're well made, and essential to keeping the drivetrain of your vehicle properly lubricated. 10/10 purchase.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYDZ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hqdEybRSSGF0Y
this product on amazon has been my friend for this problem. Also, the garage sale/craigslist posts are good ideas.
https://www.amazon.com/Push-Type-Oil-Gun-Pointed/dp/B01N3XP19B
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Seems like a thing that should have a proper English name, but I can't find it.
Dude, just get yourself one of these.
Comes with everything you need and works right out of the box.
I've been using ones like this for a few years. One failed (they're cheap pumps after all) but the replacement has been holding up for a long time.
12V power is convenient because you just clip it on the car's battery and have the car drain its own oil for you.
Not a mechanic, but I occasionally change oil in my own and family members' cars. Anybody have experience with this form funnel? http://www.amazon.com/PIG®-Form---Funnel®-Flexible-Draining/dp/B003V9JWHO/
Here you go. It's pretty cheap and does work well.
I have seen people use Jerry cans, those big steel gas cans.
Might need a couple.
Midwest 5 Gallon Metal "Jerry" Gas Can https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002GIL64I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AHjQCbR7M6KSW
Edit: a word and a link.
I just looked on Amazon and it looks like you can buy them there. There are also listings for the pour spouts.
http://www.amazon.com/Moeller-Scepter-Resistant-Closures-5-3-Gallon/dp/B000MTI0FG/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1416656157&sr=8-6&keywords=vented+gas+can
http://www.amazon.com/Gas-Can-Spout-Kit-Replacement/dp/B00DGVRXD2/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1416656191&sr=8-7&keywords=vented+gas+can
Had the half check engine light keep going off and on on my 2011 r56s w/46k miles, talking with a couple of different mini experts they suggested I replace the solenoid valve(s) to see if it helped, along camshaft position sensor.
was very easy to do and haven't had and issues since
believe http://www.pelicanparts.com had a guide with pics that I saw but didn't follow, it was just a couple of bolts and some reattaching electrical connectors, very easy to do when you see the engine/parts
Solendoid
sensor
as far as the wiring harness, am afraid I am no help (didn't replace)
You can get the hose separately. Grease gun fittings are standardized at 1/8 NPT.
I saw this at Sears last time I was there: https://www.sears.com/dewalt-dcgg5703-24-1-8-inch-npt-grease-gun/p-00916674000P
I got a cheap one at Advance Auto but I would not recommend it. It's starting to crack; I'll move up to the DeWalt one when this one goes. It is also like 10" -- too short in my opinion.
A quick google search tells me FlexZilla makes one too:https://www.amazon.com/Flexzilla-Grease-Hose-Spring-Guard/dp/B06WP9SQRK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537231339&sr=8-3 . I LOVE their air whip hoses, so that might be a good deal.
As an aside, while I was looking on Amazon I saw this: https://www.amazon.com/LockNLube-fittings-best-selling-Long-lasting-rebuildable/dp/B00H7LPKKU
If you use grease fittings frequently, it might be worth it. The cheap coupler that came on my hose gets grease EVERYWHERE.
Personally, I will not upgrade until my hose ruptures, but that's because as a hobbyist, I only use a grease gun a few times a year.
Only advice I'd have on this is (if you don't know already) is to make the adjustments with the engine running, it's a little messy, but way faster and more accurate. At least in my experience when dealing with hydraulic lifters.
Grab some stoppers for the push rod side of the rockers to minimize spray like these.
https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-25050-Rocker-Stoppers/dp/B01MUE220P
Warm up the engine, then shut it down. Remove valve cover. Add stoppers. Start it back up. Loosen rocker slowly until it starts ticking. Tighten 1/3 to 1/2 turn, and move on to the next...
Are you talking about the CARB spouts? They are not attached, you can just discard them. I use non-CARB nozzles, as I described in my review on the product page I linked above. Here is the link to the non-CARB spout:
https://www.amazon.com/NEW-NATO-34-Jerry-34-Fuel-Can-Pour-Spout-Nozzle/dp/B009HJMY8Q/
As I also describe in the review, I use some additional plastic tubing to make the non-CARB spout more usable when filling a car.
Actually it looks like CampingMaxx is selling the Wavian cans WITHOUT the useless CARB spout:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFBU1WB/
So you could save some money there by not getting the CARB nozzle in the first place, instead just buying the non-CARB one separately.
https://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Gallon-Metal-Jerry-Can/dp/B002GIL64I
Not sure if I'd recommend it though. The can is solid, but the cap has broken on me a few times and I keep having to replace it. I'm thinking of making a trip out of state to get one soon that's not stuck to the California compliant stuff.
DONT USE THE WRENCH SHOWN BELOW you will crack the canister!
You need to use the proper device similar to the one you got from Crappy Tire. What do you mean it didn't fit? I have one I got from an autoparts store which looks exactly the same and it fits all my Toyotas (Matrix, Corolla, Rav4, Tundra).
You have to line up the tabs. Did you remove the metal tab first?
Pro-tip: it is easy to over-torque the canisters which makes them an absolute bitch to remove after driving for a while. Use a torque wrench set to 18 foot pounds (IIRC - its written on the one cartridge). I strong recommend you get this or something like it https://www.amazon.ca/Toyota-Filter-Release-2-5L-5-7L-Cartridge/dp/B07F42KVP9/ref=sr_1_1?crid=14I2BJVA207XD&keywords=toyota+oil+filter+drain+tool&qid=1555962577&s=gateway&sprefix=toyota+oil%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-1 it makes it a lot cleaner.
Remember to replace the metal tab after you torque the canister.
How about a normal grease gun, and these?
I mean, I can design and print this; I'd love to take your money. It's just.... I'm not sure how well something 3d printed would hold up in this application. Also, its going to cost you more than already existing products. Why re-invent the wheel?
You should consider a Fumoto valve.
https://www.amazon.com/Sunoco-Vented-Gallon-Hose-Clear/dp/B07V6LBPRW
Is this what you need?
Normal gas station rules for filling gas cans are simple - just put it on the floor and fill it up. You can pump if it’s in your car, while holding it, etc. otherwise, you’re fine filling up smaller (eg 1-5 gallons).
Most also come with a nozzle. Recent regulations mean they come with nozzles that go into the fill up hole, and have a switch to open and pour gas, so it won’t leak when inverted. They’re normally annoying, but you put the nozzle into the tank like a regular pump.
Probably want something like: GARAGE BOSS GB310 Briggs and Stratton Press 'N Pour Gas Can, 1+ Gallon, Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GBBLMCZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_i8S2DbWDP08WD
Maybe define what counts as ‘big-ass’. 3-5 gallon are regular sized gas cans. Bigger ones get much larger, eg 10 gallons and up
Definitely install a fumoto valve. No more fishing for drain plugs or burning your hand. Just open the lever and drain into a nice big oil pan. You can even control the flow for taking a small sample into a water bottle. Of course, none of this applies the first time you change the oil yourself to install it haha
https://smile.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-108-LC-10-Lever-Engine/dp/B07D99Q2B9/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=fumoto+f108&qid=1565047358&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Oil pan with pour spout
I used amsoil tranny fluid on my 07 si back in 2010. Seemed to shift a little smoother but not a hugely noticeable difference from OEM fluid.
There is a TSB for 3rd gear syncro issues and mine was fixed without cost at the dealership under warrenty. Not sure they would still fix it being 10+ years out.
Youll need an oil syringe from an auto store
https://www.amazon.ca/Suction-Vacuum-Fluid-Extractor-Syringe/dp/B01MFGJRMO.
Its not a difficult job, just make sure you add the necessary amount of fluid. Theres diy in 8thcivic.com
It uses two types of oil. One you mix directly with the gasoline to lubricate your cylinder( like a weed eater or chainsaw). And the other type is transmission oil, like a car and exactly like your CBR600 you put it in your transmission and you have a small oil filter as well.
When I had a YZ250 I would run "Rotella-T 15W-40 (non-synthetic)" in my transmission, and I would use "Lucas Oil Semi-Synthetic 2-Cycle Engine Oil" in my gasoline and I mixed it 38:1 sometimes 40:1.
edit: keep in mind that as a new two-stroke rider you really need to make sure you're mixing the oil in your gasoline correctly. I would go pick up a Two-stroke measuring cup and a nice 5gallon(18.9L) Gas can that won't spill while mixing.
http://www.amazon.com/Ratio-Premix-Mixing-2-Stroke-Measuring/dp/B0088PR5BQ
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AVQCCCW/ref=s9_simh_hm_b13uKb_d0_g263_i1
I'm about 3 miles from a station. Do you just use something like this? http://www.amazon.com/VP-Gallon-Square-Racing-Deluxe/dp/B00AVQCCCW/ref=lp_15707861_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1395344426&sr=1-7 - Never used one before, I assume the hose makes it pretty easy to fill up the car? I am talking w/ EQ tuning
https://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-LG-High-Performance-Lithium-Grease/dp/B003P038N8
This sorted my squeaky clutch pedal out. put the straw in the hole if you know what im sayin
Use white lithium grease like this.
And follow this Youtube video...it's for a Camry but pretty much the same exact thing in the RX. I just did my Mom's 2001 RX and this worked great.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGriUALt3-4
I bought this last year after doing some research. Only on my 3rd tube. Has worked great so far. Came from a HF where the T-handle broke off on the pull rod and sliced my hand open. All because the grease leaked to the spring side of the seal causing a need for me to pull a lot harder than necessary.
I like the pistol grip more than the other type because once the other one is on the compression stroke the grease is coming out because it is bound to get squeezed closed even when u dont want it to.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002NYDZ8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1