(Part 2) Best lab chemicals according to redditors

30 beans on Amazon

LabChem LC197601 Potassium Iodide Solution, 10% W/V, 500 mL Volume https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BKWQIXO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Gpf3CbTMNGGPT

Bought these sprayers: https://www.amazon.com/Sprayer-Improved-2-Pack-Colloidal-Applications/dp/B00JZ29SQ6/

Bought Benzyl Alcohol: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C86CQFA/

Used the proportions of benzyl alcohol/distilled water in this post to make 15ml solution: http://bluelight.org/vb/threads/657162-How-to-Make-Your-Own-Bacteriostatic-Water

The nasal sprayer sprays ~0.1ml per spray. I worked the math out so i'm getting 800mcg per spray, but i'd guess more like 750mcg.

And a note - Benzyl alcohol is synthesized using sodium hydroxide - at least the more expensive Benzyl alcohol is. And that's safe. But cheaper Benzyl alcohol is synthesized using formaldehyde, so at the end of the day I would go for a saline based nasal spray instead of benzyl alcohol-based, because you never know how the Benzyl alcohol you purchase was synthesized. Though, if you're kind of reckless like me, you can just use BA because it's been found that low dose formaldehyde doesn't really have much negative effect on animals. You can find recipes/ratios for a saline solution. The goal of having a sodium or Benzyl Alcohol is to keep away microbes.

Good luck, I hope it helps you :)

For all you inquiring minds in the future, I don't want any broken links for you, so here they are in order of their presence in my post:

Nasal sprayer wayback link: https://web.archive.org/web/20171103150343/https://www.amazon.com/Sprayer-Improved-2-Pack-Colloidal-Applications/dp/B00JZ29SQ6/ref=sr_1_2_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1509721011&sr=1-2&keywords=snoot+amber

Benzyl alcohol wayback link (just so you know what's what): https://web.archive.org/web/20171103150622/https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C86CQFA/ref=sxr_rr_xsim_1_s_it?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3008523062&pd_rd_wg=hXAX8&pf_rd_r=2Z2D6GE7C08G7Q8Q85AW&pf_rd_s=desktop-rhs-carousels&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B01C86CQFA&pd_rd_w=DhX5q&pf_rd_i=benzyl+alcohol&pd_rd_r=e731e3c2-a7b4-446b-9b8f-9d768494536a&ie=UTF8&qid=1509721062&sr=1

Bluelight nasal spray recipe wayback link: WB isn't playing nice, so here's a pastebin of the OP: https://pastebin.com/raw/XXjWvENz


Looks like they are referral links, but they're not mine. Must have got a referral bug or something from a stray cookie. Sorry! edit: nvm, i was being lazy. fixed the ref links so they're not ref links. At least the original links I fixed, too lazy to rearchive using wayback, sorry lol

Vinegar is popular for scale removal, but many prefer citric acid. I can't stand heated vinegar; it burns.......
For the hot pot, stir the citric acid separately in hot water first instead of boiling the citric acid directly in the pot. Otherwise, it can leave pitting stains (similar to boiling salt in cold water in a stainless pan). For dishwasher, just do it straight up.
You can try a small bag first, but here's a link to compare the price
https://www.amazon.com/Milliard-Citric-Acid-Pound-NON-GMO/dp/B00GNBHPAS/

For Comparison and info:
https://www.lemishine.com/ingredients/

http://products.geappliances.com/appliance/gea-support-search-content?contentId=16899

Just exactly how much are you looking for, and at what price point? WhiteWaterResearch has 30ml bottles for $10 a piece, but I assume you tryin to do better than that, no?

EDIT: Here's how you can make your own:

Distilled water: https://www.amazon.com/RPI-W20525-4000-0-Distilled-Water-4L/dp/B07D5JRMM3/ref=sr_1_8

Benzyl Alcohol: https://www.amazon.com/Benzyl-Alcohol-Grade-Sterile-Bottle/dp/B01C86CQFA/ref=pd_cp_328_1

Mix the above in a 99-to-1 ratio.

Alright here we go

1. The acid can either be muriatic ferric chloride. Ferric chloride being far safer and much much more common. Dip it and let it sit in the acid for 30 minutes. Take it out and spray it with windex or something else to neutralize the acid. Sand it lightly after with very high grit if you’d like a lighter finish don’t if you’d like a darker finish.
   
   2 i get my ferric chloride off Amazon
   Here’s the exact stuff I use MG Chemicals 415 Ferric Chloride Copper Etchant Solution, 945mL Liquid Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T8Y20W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cw1lDbFSXD42R
   
   3 usually people use ceramic “pellets” but basically anything hard will work the bigger harder and sharper the stones or bits are the tougher the finish.
   
   4 for the stoning part take the blade and stick it into a vibratory tumbler or a rock tumbler I believe with some water for how ever long. Longer is more scratches less time is a less scratched look. The tumbler can be found for about $55 at harbor freight https://www.harborfreight.com/5-lb-metal-vibrator-tumbler-67617.html
   
   
2. Cut the deer antler length wise to get two sides that you can then epoxy and pin onto the handle
   
   A fair price for that would be about $250-$300 but if you get some good fishing spots and because it’s for a buddy I’d charge $200-$225 probably up to you
   
   Hope this helps

Don't know about #1, but for #2 they sell special storage solution:

http://www.amazon.com/Hanna-Instruments-Storage-Solution-Electrodes/dp/B002NX0W2I

You don't want to store it in a jar full of the stuff as it precipitates out into salts that will crust your jar as it evaporates. I have a larger cap for the electrode that I fill, but it has to be replaced monthly. Even then, the electrode craps out after 2 years. (I use mine for winemaking, not gardening).

It has so many uses around the house, so I buy it in bulk: 10lbs of anhydrous citric acid

I put about a 1/4cup scoop for a full washing machine in the rinse cycle, stop the machine to let it soak for a little while, then run a second rinse afterwards. We have hard water in my area, which leaves a mineral buildup in laundry as well as not rinsing the soaps and detergents very well. A citric acid rinse every now and then really helps remove that buildup from the fabrics. It works great for sweat stains and deodorant build-up too.

I don't think microfiber is anti static but I could be wrong. Look on amazon or other sites. You can find them pretty cheap there. If you use an anti static wristabnd, you can reduce the chances but not completely eliminate them. Like if you're just using your hands, then there's no problem. But cloth will still have some chance of charge going through. I use compressed air cans.

Look at these. They're not what I use but they should work just fine.

Foooit - Air Duster (Dust Remover/Compressed Air) (White) https://www.amazon.in/dp/B00JZME5BE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5oRMBb0EB9AS3

3M CL600 Anti-Static Electronic Equipment Cleaner (10oz) https://www.amazon.in/dp/B0000V1A7Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cqRMBbPWCMNSE

Cero Iso Propyl Alcohol 99 Percent Pure [(Ch3)2-Ch-Oh] Cas: 67-63-0 (250ml) https://www.amazon.in/dp/B01FD6EMNG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DrRMBbK8ECZEE

NIKS IPA Iso-Propyl Alcohol 99.9% [(CH3)2-CH-OH] CAS: 67-63-0, 250ml https://www.amazon.in/dp/B07887GYYQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TrRMBbKQ704HC

The isopropyl alcohol really doesn't matter as long as its 90% and above. 99% is the best one available. But you can use 90% and above without any problems. You can also find them at your local medical shop. If you need more help, don't hesitate to ask.

That's a really broad question; you're doing a good job, here, by asking specifically for what you need help with. Sadly "how do I get the belt on there" has a broad answer - you just have to keep disassembling until you see a way through.

I really don't mean to be snarky or rude.

"Water based solutions to clean the inside" where did you get this strange notion?

For general cleaning, use 99% isopropyl.

For contacts and switches, use Deoxit.

Basically - if you have specific questions, then people can do their best to help you. There isn't any "HERE'S HOW TO FIX OLD TAPE DECKS" guide out there.

Just a heads up since apparently no one here seems to know where to look for Ferric Chloride and has apparently never heard of Amazon.

MG Chemicals 415 Ferric Chloride Liquid, 1 Quart Bottle, Dark Brown https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T8Y20W/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Ma3nxbSXG8SAQ

A liter is $15ish and will go a very very long way with etching knives.

Just be sure you do some research on safe handling. Use plastic containers not metal or glass. And be careful. It's a relatively safe and weak acid. But it's still acid and can hurt you if handled poorly.

There is no reason to ph down 3 times a day. Your meter is bonkers. That's a technical term that means your meter is bonkers. Ph meters are very delicate and should be stored in this. If you store it correctly you shouldn't have to calibrate often, but if you do not, you will have to calibrate ever time or you will get wild readings.

If you follow a well designed feeding schedule you shouldn't need a ppm/ec. Most nute manufactures have well balanced feed schedules available online. If you are trying to hyper feed or make your own custom additions then you will need a ppm/EC meter or you will run the risk of lockout.

Actually, one can completely disassemble most models in about a half hour by following a guide.

I would disassemble, clean everything non electronic with soap and water. Electronic components can be cleaned with distilled water and 99% alcohol. It is most important that any electronic component be completely dry when reassembling.

https://www.amazon.com/Swan-M314-Isopropyl-Alcohol-99/dp/B00NMPLSZ6

That's correct. As long as your store your filament in a sealed container with humidity level below 20%, the filament would lose moisture to the air which will be absorbed by the desiccant.

I use this desiccant which can be recharged in the oven, this humidity sensor, and a large ziplock box with enough room for all my filaments (maybe 14?)

I hate alcohol. Absolutely despise it. It’s a hard drug with a cult following of tens of millions of people. And i’d take no issue if these people acknowledged the fact that alcohol is a hard ass drug. But they all saying dumb shit like “it’s not even a real drug” or “consume it in moderation and it’ll benefit”. Shit makes me so angry. U never see bartards promoting the use of diclazepam for “health benefits”. However, alcohol still shouldn’t be illegal and here’s why:

Firstly, the government would lose a lot of tax revenue. Don’t really need to elaborate much on this. We already deficit spend; no need to make it worse.

Secondly, cartels would be glad to brew some alcohol for us gringos. Significantly increase the revenue stream going to these violent groups of corruption. Yes, making alcohol illegal would lead to a temporary drop in consumption as legal supplies of alcohol are destroyed. But almost immediately after, illegal supplies would flood the country, bringing the price down and causing consumption to go back up to current levels. We saw the exact same thing during 20s prohibition.

And finally, the biggest hole in trying to make alcohol illegal: synthetic alcohol. Back in the early 2000s, chinese chemists figured out how to dodge drug laws. Simply take an illegal drug, tweak the molecular structure, and you get a legal, often stronger version of said illegal drug. Once politicians ban this drug, which could take months or years, chemists need mere hours to make a new drug. It’s impossible to stop this grey market. There already exist legal 2m2b, a drug that acts on the same GABA receptors in your brain as alcohol. Difference is, 3 MILLILITERS will get you drunk for up to 12 hours. If politicians tried banning this, chemists would make a new, stronger analog.

https://www.amazon.com/Biopharm-Calibration-Electrode-Traceable-Reference/dp/B01LVU36UD/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1498823587&sr=8-13&keywords=ph+storage+solution

or

https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-Instruments-Storage-Solution-Electrode/dp/B002P35Y6U/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498823587&sr=8-3&keywords=ph+storage+solution

Will this work? https://www.amazon.com/LabChem-LC197601-Potassium-Iodide-Solution/dp/B01BKWQIXO/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1538698382&sr=8-6&keywords=potassium+iodide

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Z2CC7Q6?psc=1

This is a thing I found, just bought 10lbs vg from bulk apothecary and don't use vg much, but you're in luck!

Edit: my apologies, not free shipping :( but I did find this. http://www.essentialdepot.com/product/CUBE-4VG.html

So i guess rinsing and washing it is good enough, thanks,

Here is where I got the formalin from:

https://www.amazon.com/TissuePro-NFB03-32R-Neutral-Buffered-Formalin/dp/B018REELP0/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=formalin&qid=1571317664&sr=8-3

Assuming you're in the United States, your cup runneth over.

Ebay definitely has some. If you're looking for a smaller amount you could try Pepperhead which sells it in smaller amounts.

Your best option may also be Amazon. You can do a quick search for the best seller.

Just make sure to only buy small amounts and if possible make sure the seller states that it is intended for gardening or hydroponics. It's also used for making explosives so don't go and buy a 50kg bag of it or you may get put on some sort of list.

In my country only one company sold it and the minimum order was 1kg. It took nearly 1 month to get sent. That's a lifetime supply if you're only germinating seeds with it.

2-Methyl-2-butanol, 97.5+%, 100ml (tert-Amyl Alcohol) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D7JWMT2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nKxLAb0SS6ATN


Are there actually toxic impurities? And this is the correct chemical right?

Bok choi has been the easiest thing for me to grow by far so there's definitely something off in your system.

Having a pH pen and an EC pen is pretty much critical to diagnosing nutrient solution problems. This is the pH meter I have, which is kind of mid-tier but comes with calibration solution. Also pick up some storage solution as it will reduce how often you have to recalibrate the pen vs keeping it dry. EC meter you can go cheap on, I use this one and get good results.

Believe it or not... Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Lab-Grade-Methylene-Blue-Powder-25g/dp/B077T7HBSF

As for dosing, that's your problem. I'm NOT recommending it at all.

nice. Tips: you can keep Ferric Chloride solution in a ice cream bucket, i have had mine in one for a few months with no problems. also you can also use a soda bottle for dipping the blade.

For engraving you cant go wrong with a rotary tool as its the easiest way to do engravings. ghaa my engraving tip busted well i was doing the engraving on my latest blade as i developed a makers mark and put it on all my blades. so well I got it on it I screwed up the engraving so I did not do the best i could.

also amazon sells ferric chloride so here's a link: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T8Y20W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For etching resist you can use acrylic paint and I hear you can use electrical tape but have not tried it yet.

Oxalic Acid Bath. You can find good write up on the method on BMXMuseum

https://bmxmuseum.com/forums/viewtopic.php?id=351132

You can buy Oxalic Acid crystals on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0147GM7CQ (2lb)

https://www.amazon.com/OXALIC-Crystals-Cleaning-Removal-Remover/dp/B0793F89NT (8 oz)

I bought some awhile back on Amazon that was made by a well known maker of laboratory reagents, so I'd consider it lab grade. Some discussion here at the time discouraged me from using it, suggestion it might have heavy metal contamination. However, I have heard counterarguments that suggested the lab grade should be plenty pure since it would need to have a certain purity to not interfere with with chemical reactions.

Lastly, there is a lengthy longecity thread where the folks were experimenting with MB/Taurine/Olive leaf to inhibit amyloid. Longecity members, some were using fish tank MB, but then some of those guys seem pretty reckless sometimes in their N=1 experiments.

I was wondering if anybody here could provide some extra insight as to whether the lab grade stuff I have would be safe or not. I don't have it in front of me, but I believe the company that made it was this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077T7HBSF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1#detail-bullets

​

MSDS sheet from company:

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71rMsrYM89L.pdf

I found this in amazon. I am going to give it a try.. I will make sure to follow up with this thread to see if it worked. Thanks folks for letting me share this in your group. I hope to post my results and have the searchable for future folks researching this..

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071KLJK62/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A27LSZ6R5SYNQU&psc=1

You're welcome—will definitely share the link when it's available. One thing I should have mentioned is that if you try DMSO, do not use anything plastic with it, as it will absorb compounds out of the plastic. Always go with glass and metal. You can get it on Amazon for cheap. This is the one I have: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BSYQ0XC/. Apparently, it's used extensively with horses, so if you have a feed shop nearby, that might be an option, too.

Oh, and as other people have said, try to avoid eating for five or six hours beforehand. That's a Terence McKenna tip. No need to fast, but just take them on an empty stomach.

Here is the mobile version of your link

Would this do the job ?

https://www.amazon.in/Cero-Propyl-Alcohol-Percent-2-Ch-Oh/dp/B01FD6EMNG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=1KJECICB0FWKN&keywords=isopropyl+alchohol&qid=1554248410&s=gateway&sprefix=isopropyl&sr=8-2

Vegetable Glycerin 1 Gallon + Propylene Glycol 1 Gallon - USP - Kosher https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Z2CC7Q6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_P92 NBsybYZH35GW

Get the nic and flavors from wizard/nude/etc. Do a little research, Sort out how to measure and store, and voila, 2 gallons of juice for a couple hundred bucks. Too easy.

Here you go: https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B01FD6EMNG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I have one and it's great !

Please, please, please don't try and use normal food flavorings like the things you find in a grocery store in eliquid, it's a lot nastier than you might expect.

I would start with This VG+PG Combo deal, then get reputable nicotine from someplace like Nude Nicotine or wizard labs and flavors from a supplier like The Flavor Apprentice

You will also want bottles, a digital scale and some sort of transfer media (pipettes, eye droppers, etc)

This should be a solid foundation, but don't expect that you will be saving a ton of money off the bat. You should realistically expect to spend a couple hundred dollars to get fully setup with a decent flavor library and the basic mixing equipment but once you do, it can save you incredible amounts of money down the road.

thanks for the response! thats really helpful. Would something like this be ok? also, would it be necessary to rub into the skin or could i drop on the tongue? thanks in advance.


https://www.amazon.com/DMSO-Bottle-99-995-Dimethyl-Sulfoxide/dp/B01BSYQ0XC/ref=sr_1_7?crid=2I4RGETO9DBBX&keywords=dmso+pharmaceutical+grade+99%25&qid=1566909987&s=gateway&sprefix=DMSO+phar%2Caps%2C190&sr=8-7

https://www.amazon.com/OXALIC-Crystals-Cleaning-Removal-Remover/dp/B0793F89NT/

It sounds like you're entirely starting new, so I can give you some pointers I hope will be helpful. I also run a Breville Infuser, but I have a Ceado E6P.

• Maintenance and cleanliness. (More of general kitchen tip, but applies doubly here)
  
  When was the last time the grinder was cleaned? When was the last time the machine was descaled and back flushed? Consider this to be like brushing your teeth: you do it regularly so you don't get cavities and dental disease. You do not want to wait until things get funky. I clean my stuff about once a month. I also descale once a month because I have hard water; but I used to live somewhere where I only needed to descale once every 6 months.
  
  On cleaning your grinder: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UVVsTAUzVzM
  
  Grindz tablets: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014J7FUY
  
  Descale: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lq1TiwoJbWA
  
  Our machines do not have a descale mode, but that doesn't matter, you can follow the steps anyway. Also, just buy citric acid, you don't need Breville's stuff. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GNBHPAS/ I always backflush after I descale, so I stop following this guide at roughly the 2 minute mark.
  
  Backflush: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t1N8HLoW6ew
  
  Cafiza: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004L8RTEM/
  
  
• Beans:
  
  You need fresh beans. There's no two ways around this. You can play with this if you like. Old beans are monumentally difficult to dial in, and often it's impossible. I find beans last nearly a month after the roast date, but there's a noticeable drop off after the second week. There's a lot of room for experimenting here, I recommend you do. Also note, that some beans cannot be dialed in. I don't understand the roasting and processing factors, but there is a lot of variation here.
  
  
• About the Infuser:
  
  Our machine can be programmed such that it will dispense a fairly precise volume of water with the press of a single button. My 1 cup button is programmed to purge the group head, and my 2 cup button is programmed for a regular pull. I want you to know that this a really a good approximation, but Breville has a "smart" feature where it will try to "save" the shot if it thinks the pressure is too high. This has ruined a few cups for me, so I only have this programmed for those bad mornings, but otherwise I don't use it.
  
  Edit: I'm an idiot. If your pressure gauge is "bouncing" or fluctuating during a shot, most likely your pump is going bad. You can try to service it or replace it, I bought one of these off amazon and it is working: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMNA138/. I got this because it arrived the same day. This is the actual pump: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077ZRP3GD.
  
  I only use the 2 shot single walled basket, and I have also modified my portafilter to be bottomless. I generally find a good shot is just after the second screw in the pressure gauge, but that gauge is not very helpful.
  
  
• 
  
  I bought a few toys to help me out. These are not necessary, and in fact some people will tell you that you don't need them at all. Those people are probably right, but I like my toys anyway.
  
  A funnel: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N693YSS/ A cut yogurt cup can work. It doesn't need to be fancy, I just wanted something fancy.
  
  A pick: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003E48EWA/ A toothpick or anything pointy can totally suffice. Again, just wanted to be fancy.
  
  A leveling tool. I have a 51mm because that's what I could find cheaply at the time, but it looks like 53mm are also available now. 51mm: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BTN1S2C/ 53mm: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S4Q179B/
  
  A tamp: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUXN53U/ This tamp has a spring inside it. I only bought this because I had a nasty habit of over tamping.
  
  I found this video that I like: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iMldWhQVMQA I would not tap the filter after the distribution (where he's stirring the grounds), and I tamp gently. I don't twist or turn the tamp.
  
  
• 
  
  Dialing in is a trial and error type deal. In general, you want ~16 grams in the portafilter, and want to pull ~32 grams of espresso in ~30 seconds. These aren't hard and fast rules, and there's a lot of wiggle room here.
  
  Find a coin like a nickel or penny and clean it. After you've tamped your portafilter, place the coin directly on top of the grounds, then lock the portafilter in the machine. Remove the portafilter and then carefully remove the coin from the grounds. (Do not pull a shot with the coin in there)
  
  Is there an indentation in the grounds? If so, then you have overfilled the portafilter. If not, you might be good, or the portafilter might be underfilled. A scale will really help here.
  
  To pull a shot, I have my portafilter locked in, and place my mug on top of my scale underneath the portafilter. I will hold down the 2 shot button (doesn't matter, you can hold down the 1 shot button), and keep it depressed for roughly 10 seconds. This is the preinfusion stage. Low pressure water is being introduced to the grounds. I chose 10 seconds because this is when I first start to see espresso appear at the bottom of my basket. You can experiment here. I then release the button to allow the full extraction. I press the button again at ~30 grams to stop the extraction.
  
  I want to emphasize that these are rough guidelines. You may find something entirely different that works. I apologize if I came off as rude or condescending, I'm a bit of a turd by nature. Please ask if you have any questions.

I didn't realize you'd already ordered the items in your list. That pH pen should work OK, but you'll need to calibrate it every couple of weeks. THIS kit has 4.0 and 7.0 calibration solutions and the storage solution. You definitely need those items to keep the pH pen operational (same goes for ANY pH meter). And you still need a tds/ppm meter... THIS cheap one should do.

I found out 1 drop of 10% Sodium Thiosulfate solution per gallon of water will neutralize 1 ppm of chlorine, for fractions of a cent per typical use. Buy it dry and store it well, but a pound of Na2S2O3 will set you back about $10 for almost a lifetime supply of DIY dechlorinator.

I am on amazon.ca :) Can you please provide the link to me? This is the one i get as first one https://www.amazon.ca/Sodium-Acetate-Weight-500g-Inoxia/dp/B075FC3WC6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1517846480&sr=8-1&keywords=sodium+acetate

> sodium acetate

EMS 21120 Sodium Acetate, 500 g
by Electron Microscopy Sciences
Be the first to review this item
Price: CDN$ 74.40
Only 10 left in stock.
Get it as soon as Feb. 7 - 12

https://www.amazon.ca/Sodium-Acetate-Weight-500g-Inoxia/dp/B075FC3WC6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1517846480&sr=8-1&keywords=sodium+acetate

I use rubbing alcohol( Isopropyl Alcohol 92%) but you’re supposed to use Isopropyl Alcohol 99% for electronics. Swan M314 Isopropyl Alcohol, 99%, 16 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMPLSZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.s4CDbEGX60BY

I’ll be getting that one when mine is out.

I owned two. Last december, on a 55F day, I drove it 78.3 miles on a single charge. The last time I'd checked the battery with the Open Source Tool (I bought an assembled one for $75 from some guys on the Smart Car of America forum) it was at 95% health. I had to sell one for a bigger car recently. I towed with the one I sold quite frequently. I'd recommend the car to anyone. I've known 2 people out of ~6000 cars sold in the US that had issues. One is a friend of mine locally. First his ECU failed and was replaced under warranty around 44k miles. Most recently -- car has 58k miles I think -- the onboard AC charger has fried. He's trying to source a replacement (MB wants $4000 for the part), and he's now looking to see if his car was a CARB state car that has an extended warranty that would cover this or if he can repair it himself (He is an EE and unafraid to take it apart). I will own another one some day. I still see my little Gopher, almost weekly, he lives with friends of mine now. They love him as much as I do. They DO have a desiccant filter to keep humidity in the pack low that needs to be refilled with silica beads every 2 years. I made and published a 3D printable tool to change the filter, and I'm happy to ship a printed model to anyone for $12 in the US. DM me if interested or if you have more questions about the little car. Also, re: support. MB is contractually obligated to support it for 5 years after last model discontinuation (so 2024), and, the only thing special about it is the tiny tires. Any independent Mercedes shop should have a tire machine that can mount and balance its tires, that's who we use in Raleigh to service ours and do the brake flush every 2 years (recommended). The other consumables are wiper blades and a cabin filter, both of those and the desiccant filter can be changed in under 20 minutes in your driveway - no need for a lift.

You have to convert the proteins to polymer bonds, soak in this stuff first: https://www.amazon.com/TissuePro-NFB03-32R-Neutral-Buffered-Formalin/dp/B018REELP0/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=formalin&qid=1567485850&s=gateway&sr=8-1

then 70% isopropyl, the 98% can damage tissue.

https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-Instruments-Storage-Solution-Electrode/dp/B002P35Y6U

Really most storage solutions would be fine but this one is manufacturer specific.

This is the third link in a Google search.

Real hard stuff to find.

I bought it on amazon, and honestly the bottle makes it is hard to understand the dosage .

It’s this one
https://www.amazon.com/Methylene-Blue-Aqueous-Solution-250/dp/B071KLJK62/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=methylene+blue&qid=1558320146&s=gateway&sprefix=methylene+&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

And I took 10 drops the first day, and 15 the next two days . If someone could help me figure out the dosage per drop on it , it would be greatly appreciated .

In theory storage solution:

http://www.amazon.com/Hanna-Instruments-Storage-Solution-Electrodes/dp/B002NX0W2I

But plenty of people used distilled or RO water just fine. I don't know if I'd use tap water, just because it could be fine or it could be terrible. Edit: See below.

Here is the desktop version of your link