(Part 2) Best laptop chargers & adapters according to redditors

Jump to the top 20

We found 1,166 Reddit comments discussing the best laptop chargers & adapters. We ranked the 468 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

Next page

Top Reddit comments about Laptop Chargers & Adapters:

u/gruber277 · 7 pointsr/audio

I'm happy to help.

> Sennheiser HD 650

Wow, yeah, your laptop most likely does not have enough power to run 300ohm cans. You definitely want an amplifier for those phones, you're missing out on their capabilities quite a bit.

£300 is plenty for just a headphone amplifier, a lot more than I've ever spent on one haha. I'm in Canada so I'm not entirely sure where you would shop for this kind of thing, so I can only give you a general idea of what to look for.

If you want an amplifier for your desk, non-portable, you have two circuit style choices. With and without vacuum tubes. Tube amplifiers are said to have a "warmer" sound and they look cooler, but require semi-regular maintenance. Tubeless, or solid state amplifiers, (usually) do not color the sound at all, and are a better choice if you want accuracy from your headphones. I don't know what kind of sound signature the HD 650s have or what your preferences are, so you will have to take this information and decide for yourself.

For a solid state amplifier, (my preference) I cannot recommend the Schiit Magni2 enough. It's only $100 or £66.50, but you really don't need to spend as much as you'd think to drive headphones. The Magni will push your 650s far beyond anything your laptop can and give you lots of room to upgrade your headphones in the future, as they can drive even 600Ohm headphones without an issue. You can spend $50/£33.25 more to get the Uber if you need pre-amp outputs to send to a digital receiver or powered speakers. To connect this amplifier to your laptop, I think you would need a stereo RCA to 3.5mm cable.

A link to the cable: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cable-Mountain-Plated-3-5mm-Phono-Dark-Blue/dp/B001KEVSX8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1425852782&sr=8-2&keywords=rca+to+3.5

A link to the Magni: http://schiit.com/products/magni-2

I honestly have very little knowledge of the tube amplifier market, so hopefully someone else can jump in and give you more solid advice on them. Schiit's Vali is basically the Magni with tubes for a slightly higher price. I see one issue with it, and that is that the tubes appear to be soldered on so removing them and replacing them might be a hassle. I don't think this would be your first choice.

If you feel like you're not spending enough, you can also get a desk-top DAC from Schiit called the Modi. Stacking the Magni and Modi is a very popular choice for budget set ups, and to be honest I think it can stack (ha!) up to $500+ systems for its quality.

If you want a portable amplifier to use with your cell phone and computer FiiO rocks that market as far as I know. Look at their line up and find one that best suits your use - take size and power into account.

For a portable amplifier that you won't be stuffing into your pocket, only using and powering with your laptop, you can expand your horizons a little bit. There's a few USB powered amplifier/DAC combos that are hardly any bigger than a thumb drive, Resonessence Labs' Herus is a good example. It's said to have very good sound quality for an...okay price. $350/£232.74. Also check out some of FiiO's USB powered stuff, they would work in this situation well I'm sure. Let me know what level of portability you need and we can look a little bit deeper into this category.

Here's a link to FiiO's English website: http://www.fiio.net/en/fiio

Here's a link to the Herus: http://www.resonessencelabs.com/herus-2/

Sorry for the wall of text, I hope it's helpful. :)

u/chx_ · 4 pointsr/thinkpad

What's not to like? I have a T420s hacked to full HD. This will

  1. Unhack it and give me a warranty
  2. Give me a bit of a CPU boost
  3. Raise the memory limit to 32GB
  4. Allow supported eGPU via TB3 (eGPU via ExpressCard is everything but supported). There are noises about portable eGPUs but nothing shipped yet. Lenovo demoed a graphics dock for the Yoga 920 at IFA which ships in October so perhaps by the time the TA25 ships, Lenovo's graphics dock will be available as well. It's an 1050 which is just ideal for me. Ever since the June "it's alive" blog post I really wanted an GTX 1050 in my Retro and it seems Lenovo will deliver it -- even if the 1050 is outside. But that's fine, I can work with that, nVidia Optimus can drive the internal display from an eGPU.

  5. Allow for real battery swap. Go light when long battery life is less of a concern (which is often for me) and go heavy as necessary. This time the system is not stupid about which battery to deplete and how much.
  6. Speed one of the SSDs up.
  7. Raise DisplayPort version to (or above? do I look like as if I care?) 1.2 where an MST hub is possible. Dual PackedPixels, woohooo! This charger will power the laptop, the displays, my phone (and even my ereader) all. This MST hub will drive the displays from the USB C port. Or the graphics dock happens and then the 1050 will drive, without breaking a sweat those two :D I might pack many pixels ;) but certainly won't reach the 7680x4320 an 1050 can drive.

    What am I losing?

  8. Status LEDs. Not important.
  9. Two SSDs instead of three. I am only using two at the moment, and two is enough (but note: one is definitely not enough). Going m.2 only is going to be a bit of a cost but oh well.
  10. Physical closing mechanism. This is a plus actually, the current one is iffy and needs a bit of gentle jostling occasionally to open.
  11. Half a pound with the light battery. That's practically a wash.
u/littlebigthoughts · 4 pointsr/howto

If you have a Mac you can try THIS.

It's supposed to make it harder for the cord to unplug.

u/Jongjungbu · 4 pointsr/vita

I've gone through so many cables and chargers or just cable or brick for my OLED. The only good one so far that hasn't died on me is this one on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AG361X6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
A fellow Redditor shared that suggestion, and I am thankful. It's inexpensive and works like a charm. :)
Edit: Also later had bought a 2nd one for my Vita portable battery.

u/systemrename · 3 pointsr/thinkpad

I would suggest reading this recent thread.

As stated by notebookcheck, "the X280 just has one 48 Wh internal battery".

I find this examination of power delivery negotiations on a Huawei Matebook as well as the other reports listed on gtrusted to be exemplary of the issues. This shows the variety of power delivery scenarios any USB-C Power Delivery controller will negotiate with the device's USB-C implementation. The Huawei Matebook uses a non-standard USB-C PD implementation, and there are plenty of reports of incompatibilities with various chargers.

So far the common thread in reports of USB-C PD charging incompatibilities seems to be undersized power supplies. The comment made by Anker on their 26800 w/PD may simply be that the device is underpowered for the charging negotiation.

The x280 has the advantage of having ports to the Thunderbolt 3 standard. I would simply find one that advertises PD capability in the range of 45 watts, and preferably one that has the full range of voltages offered by standard Power Delivery.

This is a newer product and I haven't seen it under other brand names, worth some research: EMIGVELA
Portable Computer Power Bank 20000mAh 20V 45W, Type C and USB Quick Charge Mobile PD PowerBank
. Advertised as 74 watthours. What's advertised would charge the x280 close to 2 times although I'd suspect more like 1.5x.

This is a rebrand of the Worldpower 40,000. Worldpower is big in Japan. You can find useful reviews.

Kayo Maxtar is a battery manufacturer with some interesting products, containing USB-C PD is the Maxoak K3. Maxoak K2 is a massive battery pack with 20v output and I have used it extensively via solar charging to power a 13" Acer. Their capacity and wattage ratings are not inflated BS.

Suaoki has just fielded a new 100 watthour device.

If you fly, I believe 100 watthours is the limit for in-cabin batteries... something to keep in mind.

Personally I am reading reviews and trying to determine the actual manufacturer of a lot of these devices, figure out how they are constructed and what sort of component they utilize, because I need to solar power mine. When you can use an AC adapter it pretty much comes down to picking one large enough to feed 45 watts. Potentially, the voltage negotiation of an x280 might want a 20v connection and some of the smaller units provide 5v, 9v, 12v only.

Since the USB-C PD standard includes a 100 watt connection, you can imagine the implications of feeding 5 AMPERES through a USB peripheral cable... you'd want 18 or 16 gauge wire for that. I still don't understand that myself. However, a 12, 15, or 20v connection feeding 2 or 3 amperes seems rational enough. So I'd simply find a good looking unit, search the Amazon reviews for reports of success with various laptops, and try one out.

Personally I favor 20v DC input to laptops, so much less complicated.

The one thing I would avoid is a AC plug on a battery bank. Plugging in your AC adapter to a power bank that is generating a high power sine wave... it's gonna be lossy and noisy as fuck.

u/jallsopp · 3 pointsr/audio

The amplifier you currently have can do all that. For AUX, all you need is an RCA to 3.5mm cable, like this. Use any input on the back of the receiver.

Adding bluetooth's about as easy as adding an AUX lead, just buy another RCA to 3.5mm and add a Bluetooth receiver, like this.

I'm not 100% sure where you're located and the UK sub market seems different from everywhere else. Someone else would be able to give better suggestions on models however due to your amplifier not having a dedicated subwoofer out, you'll need to fine one with speaker level in terminals that take bare speaker wire. Hook it up like in this diagram.

u/HmnkZilla · 3 pointsr/sffpc

2700x w/Strix B450-I, Dom Plat RGB 3200mhz 2x8gb, Silverstone 700w Plat SFX-L w/swapped copper fan grill. If anyone wants to buy the PSU pm me haha, the stock fan grill from Silverstone is still mint, not to be confused with the grill that was painted. Im really trying to look for an SF600 with some custom cables or something, would die to have some PSlate cables or something before end of this month since I wont have time to wait for all of the processing time it takes for them. Have 20+ trades on r/hardwareswap but barely have time to even post anything nowadays. Still looking for a better shade of copper spray paint. If I had time I would have 100%%%%% powder coated instead of rattle-canning.

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Silent-Modular-SX700-LPT/dp/B01G26SMTQ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=538XD1Y5M2ML&keywords=sfx+700w&qid=1572601315&sprefix=sfxl+700%2Caps%2C176&sr=8-3

\^ Thats the PSU. I could do like $140 shipped with this thrown in from CO. Lmk!

u/Kayse · 3 pointsr/computing

Unfortunately, what you're suggesting (DC storage to AC intermediate "wall socket" power to DC use by the device) is a bit impractical and inefficient. Many power inverters (a device for turning DC current into AC), can have efficiencies down to 50% when you use them in a trickle mode to "top off" a battery and near 90% when you use the full rated capacity of the inverter. As well, most digital electronics use DC power internally, this AC power you just generated will have to be converted back into DC power. This process will also loss some of the energy as heat as well.

Taken together, this means that you will probably need about two to three times the amount of battery (with associated weight) to run your "universal charger".

What I would suggest would be to have a DC power source you can tie directly into your portable device without having to convert between AC and DC twice.

First: Many small portable devices will charge off of USB. USB is already DC and they make dozens of battery packs (some rechargeable) that will supply power to anything that can draw current from a USB cable. http://www.google.com/search?q=usb+battery+pack

Secondly, if you need to supply power to a portable device which cannot charge off of USB (such as a laptop), your best solution would be to buy a specific external battery/spare battery for your laptop, that you can recharge from or swap to. Most modern OSes can save their current state to the harddrive (e.g.: hibernation mode), so you can power down, swap batteries and power up in seconds.

Edit: Would something like this be what you're looking for: http://www.amazon.com/Energizer-XP18000-Universal-External-Netbooks/dp/B002K8M9HC

u/Kage-kun · 3 pointsr/Games

Also, higher airflow means more dust intake, which means faster clogging. I'll bet it COULD run faster if it needed to, in a hot environment.

I believe the 100-150W TDP. I mean, if we're talking about a gaming laptop charger, it makes sense. http://www.amazon.com/Dell-150-Watt-Adapter-Charger-Alienware/dp/B0030ER9R0/ref=pd_sim_sbs_pc_1

All they gotta do is remake the shape, put some cooling fins on it, and make sure its in the path of airflow. The thing already runs WITHOUT active cooling; just gotta make sure the other components don't heat it up.

u/-ChocolateMilkShark- · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

thanks for the feedback the plan is to use the offical one on the dock and this one for when i go to a hotel or at work and plug it in direct

also if you dont mind me asking, Would this one be better?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07GNDRDTQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2PGPJL0BBLHLX&psc=1

u/Bribase · 3 pointsr/ipad

I'm using this and this. Really fast charging.

u/Armsc · 2 pointsr/audio

So it looks like you have a computer speaker set that had a simple 2.1 setup. Computer into the bass module and then some single RCA connectors for each speaker. These ran to the Gale towers. The problem that you have is inside the bass module is an 3 channel amp. One for the "sub" and one each for the mains.

The new SW150 only has one a one channel amp and it's for the sub. You'll need to either feel it with a low level signal from an AVR/computer or a high level signal from an amplifier that will power your speakers.

Here is the what you need to make it work. Go from the computer to the amp with the cable. Then from the amp output to the sub speaker inputs then go back out to the towers from those same terminals. This will allow you to control the volume with either your computer or the amp. You can also split the signal coming from your computer and go into both the amp and sub with separate RCA cables but you won't be able to control the volume of both with the amp. You'll have to do it with your computer after you level match the sub and amp.

Amp - SMSL SA36 £33

Cable - 3.5mm to RCA £5 to go from the computer to the amp.

Speaker wire £11 to go from the amp to the sub then the sub to the towers.

u/macfound32 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Power adapter for the Dell Alienware M15x

Should work with the M17x, same voltage and watts.

u/MidnightBlaze_ · 2 pointsr/vita

I got this one and it works amazingly. Plus it has a nice long cord.

u/Azuretower · 2 pointsr/apple

The Snuglet is admittedly quite pricey for a tiny piece of aluminum but it solves the problem of the charger getting knocked out so easily.

u/fourdots · 2 pointsr/SuggestALaptop

The intersection of small screens (14" or less), good battery life and good gaming potential isn't a very large one.

The current Razer Blade is one of the go-to choices in this range, but it's out of your budget and doesn't have a very good battery life (4 or 5 hours at most, from what I recall). The Gigabyte P34Gv2 is in your price range, but has a similarly bland battery life (6 hours idle, maybe 4 with light usage). The Clevo W230SS (sold under a few different names, including as the Sager NP7338) is much cheaper and quite powerful for a 13" laptop, but has a similar battery life. The Lenovo Y40 has a pretty good battery life (maybe 6-7 hours), but is a fair bit less powerful so probably wouldn't fit your usage very well.

Would you be willing to consider carrying around an external battery pack, something like this or this? The battery in the P34Gv2 is around 60Wh, and the one in the W230SS is around 50Wh; adding an external 150Wh battery to that would give you a pretty large improvement, though it could be a bit of a hassle to carry around an external battery.

u/[deleted] · 2 pointsr/Dell

The Dell charger is only 45W so I think it would be.

https://www.amazon.com/Dell-332-1827-XPS-Adapter-45W/dp/B00EM2PGW4

u/WhosUrBuddiee · 2 pointsr/reactiongifs

I would still say the one single Apple magnetic cable is better than the 100 different PC laptop cables. It is sad when people try to buy a "universal" laptop charger and it comes with 30+ different adapters.

https://www.amazon.com/SoulBay-Universal-Notebook-Toshiba-Laptops/dp/B01HORSXZ0/ref=pd_sim_147_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01HORSXZ0&pd_rd_r=GMNVT9HWCE6QMX96NFRB&pd_rd_w=6gdtD&pd_rd_wg=spPMn&psc=1&refRID=GMNVT9HWCE6QMX96NFRB

u/wolfgame · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I've considered doing something similar with one of my battery packs. It has two DC outputs, and I did the math one night, which came out to something like 65W on the 19V output.

u/grassmunk · 2 pointsr/hacking

Honest question. I love my mac but would prefer a Linux machine with similar build quality/ease of travel.

Could you link me to some similar high quality machines that you think could compete with a 2015 13' MBP?

The key for me is no cheap plastics, a really nice sharp display since I live on the macbook, and a better power brick than the current dell/lenovo (I gotta carry two cables? WHY?) models.

u/Defiant001 · 2 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

This might be a better option for you, check clearance though as it is SFX-L.

u/IncredibleGonzo · 2 pointsr/iPhoneX

Bit late, just stumbled across this post, but I think this one and this one are what you're looking for. You need a USB-C with PD charger to use it, like this, this, or this (though I think all but the 30W are massively overkill for a phone), or this seems to be the one seanob86 mentioned. Or this one is similar with an additional type-A port.

u/dog_leash · 2 pointsr/vaporents

Something like this. There are some cheaper ones, but not many.

u/PCRoloca · 2 pointsr/vita

PCH-1000 or phat models doesn't use standard USB charger. They use the thing called PS Vita charger (which looks like this: https://www.amazon.com/KMD-PSVita-Adapter-Home-Charger-playstation/dp/B00AG361X6/ref=br_lf_m_dedpg522swnz3o9_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=videogames). Had you ordered a PCH-2000 or slim model, it would work with any smartphone charger.

u/Paul_Swanson · 2 pointsr/computertechs

Keep like one SSD on hand. When you sell it, then buy a replacement. Hard drives go bad a lot: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E250B-AM/dp/B00OAJ412U

Perhaps one universal laptop charger too: https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Charger-Automatic-Voltage-Compatible/dp/B0132ST35Y

A few USB and Ethernet cables, and a desktop power cord.

A Wireless router: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Router-300Mbps-TL-WR841N/dp/B001FWYGJS

I realize none of these things are cheap, but they'd be the highest-priority/most frequently needed, depending on your customer's needs.

u/PantsMcShirt · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Ignore the other post as that only applies to desktops and not laptops.
This says it is a compatible supply and outputs: 19.5V 7.7A, 150W. I assume this is standard across most Dell laptops.

Don't forget as well as differing outputs, chargers also have different connectors so you need to make sure it is compatible with your laptop.

u/dgmedero · 2 pointsr/ASUS

No problem, the other guy is right to a certain extent most of the basic cheap power banks only supply 5v. But if you look at this one

(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L93V1VJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_f26WCb1YDC8M6)

You’ll see the AC outlet is listed as 110v/100W
It should be what youre looking for but I recommend doing a bit more research into which brand is going to be the best for you, the one I linked was one of the first results on amazon after searching “power bank with AC outlet”

u/jamvanderloeff · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You'll need a splitter to convert the 4 pin combined mic and headphone plug to the standard split plugs that desktops use.

u/rit · 2 pointsr/razer

There are a number of third party power adapters for this machine on Amazon, such as this one. Note the power requirements of 19V 7.9A 150 Watt – I seem to recall that usually those requirements dictate the plug. This other listing lists the dimensions of the plug as Connector Size: OD 5.5mm x ID 2.5mm

Searching for other power adapters with 19V 7.9A 150 Watt on Amazon yields a number of other adapters for Dells, Fujitsus, Acers, etc with same power requirements and same plug dimensions.

So you can probably find something, if you look for something compatible with Dell or Acer?

u/cjpcppr · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Actually I meant to include the Silverstone 700w SFX, not the ATX one!

u/wipes_dick_on_drapes · 2 pointsr/flashlight
u/AlexTakeTwo · 2 pointsr/Surface

I just got the dock last week for my Surface Pro 3, and it is a super heavy piece of kit but for home use it will be great for hooking up external monitors. For travel, I picked up the Kingdo 3rd party charger which I saw in a post here somewhere and lists the Surface 5 as compatible. I just received it yesterday so no long-term testing, but I have confirmed it charges, and in addition to being reasonably light, I like that the wall-to-brick cable is longer than the MS stock charger, and the brick has a conversion option so it can plug directly into the wall.

u/Worton · 2 pointsr/ipad

I went Anker and purchased this cable with
this charger

u/dank_planks · 1 pointr/razer

I have the RB 14 2015. Had this problem where my battery would charge by intermittence...charge 10 secs, no charge for 5 secs, charge 15 secs, and so on. Thought it was a faulty battery so I got it replaced...didn't help.

Got another [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Extra-Charger-Razer-Blade-RZ09-Gaming-Laptop-AC-Adapter-Power-Supply-Cord/dp/B00GDHT6YK/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1484005154&sr=1-2&keywords=razer+blade+charger) third party charger. Though it is bulky, it works great. My understanding is that Razer's chargers suck and faulty chargers are common.

Not sure if this helps your case but I thought I'd give you my story.

u/DRedman4157 · 1 pointr/AskTechnology

The Anker charger you're looking at will only charge devices that require 5V e.g. phones and tablets etc. You need a universal laptop charger that has an option to output at 20V and 40W or higher. Something like https://www.amazon.com/ZOZO-Universal-Charger-Automatic-Compatible/dp/B0132ST35Y/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1484143344&sr=1-3&keywords=universal+laptop+charger

Just make sure the Lenovo tip looks like the one on the supplied charger and you should be fine.

u/Firefoxn00bpwnr · 1 pointr/Surface

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07459B77H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RnjLAbST2A939

I personally have purchased this one to use, but I'm not sure if it ships to the UK. It's the North American standard plug, but it's actually a fairly quality build (but lacking an additional USB port) and not terribly expensive at ~$36 USD, assuming you have the proper adapter.

I came across this one that is fairly cheap at £10.00 on sale that'd likely work better for you (but still no extra USB charger built in), and it has decent ratings to boot. I'd pay that equivalent in USD for a charger in a pinch, anyways.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0732VB9FW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?

Good luck man, I know the struggle with a failed charger when it's your only one!

u/OnyxiasLair · 1 pointr/headphones

Ah yeah, I see what you mean. I couldn't just use one of these with a 1/4 inch adapter on the 3.5mm end

u/Robert8x · 1 pointr/iphone

Hi,

So I got my new iPhone XR today and I purchased a quick charger to go with it

(Anker USB Type-C with Power... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07GNDRDTQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)

and the cable is

(Type C to Lightning Cable,HUNDA... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0739TQFXX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)

And when I’m charging it takes ages to charge for some reason, I’ve fully drained the battery and then started from 0% and in 35 minutes it’s done 28% charge. I was told Anker is a good brand for apple chargers, any ideas why this could be?

u/panzersharkcat · 1 pointr/thinkpad

I have a RavPower one. It was about $130 for a 100 Wh one. I also had to pay about $70 for an adapter and a USB-C to USB-C cable (granted, it was at the airport). Link to what I have.

u/404_UserNotFound · 1 pointr/vita

Issue is going to be the power you are plugging it into. The old phone charge is not enough amps and is likely only charging a tiny bit. Order the power brick to charge it correctly or pick it up at a used store.

Here is an $8 one on amazon

u/alvik · 1 pointr/audioengineering

You need something like this to get the microphone and headphones on different jacks, then you can plug the microphone into your interface.

u/kdipi · 1 pointr/razer
u/JesusSavesAtWalMart · 1 pointr/Surface

I know it's not the solution you want, but: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017QUHB44/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rapBybK9CBP0C

Got this for x-mas. Battery worries are now a thing of the past. Screen on full, no battery saver, no compromises. I've had my i7 SP4 a year now and it has served me well, but the battery life has always been limiting and it's gotten worse.

u/coffeefuelledtechie · 1 pointr/techsupport

I can only find ones in the UK but it might be worth getting a universal power adapter

u/YouCanIfYou · 1 pointr/computertechs
u/despou · 1 pointr/Dell

Hi, no, I never tried charging via usb type c. You need some usb type c charger:

https://www.amazon.com/Dell-130W-Type-Adapter-Compatible/dp/B07FJ76DCN

Always take a careful look what wattage the charger is able to output. There are various 45W or 60W chargers, but it won't be sufficient to charge your laptop while in use, since our laptop might draw more power than charger is able to provide. Of course it should work fine if laptop is powered off or idle.

u/Deemtee1 · 1 pointr/vinyl
u/torpedospurs · 1 pointr/Surface

Thank you for this useful information about charger compatibility. I currently use an LVSUN multi-port charger with USB-PD 2.0 when traveling with PD 2.0 12V and 15V. Will the charger default to 15V when connected to a Pro, Laptop or Book?

u/IanLSCo · 1 pointr/thinkpad

My goal was to reduce the chargers I carry in a thin package. Found this:

https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Premium-MacBook-Convert-Toshiba/dp/B071ZSQQ1D

Combines USB-C and several USB-A's. Claims to also charge non USB-C laptops, but I haven't tried it.

Charging voltage/current is comparable to stock Lenovo 65W, Apple 61W on X1 Carbon 5th gen.

Thinner than Lenovo 65W and Apple 61W, so less bulk in the bag. Already includes all cables.

The only negative is the logo/print, but who's looking anyway.

u/BuyBooksNotBeer · 1 pointr/AskNYC

Maybe the union square station? I can’t imagine any subway station because it’d be ripe for abuse, not to mention the liability for the city from kids sticking things into them.

Probably easiest solution is just get a 110 volt battery pack like this that you can plug small appliances into

u/mattbeau80 · 1 pointr/Surface

I’m using this one on my surface pro 3

charger

It’s been fine for the last few months and has a nice adapter for wall charging.

u/Nexdeus · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

Nah, not custom, there are custom ones that can be purchased though.

Ok, if you'd take both I'll do a combo deal of $150 shipped for both items. You'd have to wait a bit for my pictures though as I'm at work right now.

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Silent-Modular-SX700-LPT/dp/B01G26SMTQ

https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GAMING-Z370I-PRO-CARBON/dp/B0778N6CFK

Those are the two items.

The MSI is actually a refurb that I got directly from MSI. The first board I got from them messed up, so I RMA'ed it, and I bought another board because I didn't want any downtime. This one has just been sitting here since then.

u/MDStroup · 1 pointr/Surface

I just want to give a big shout out to BcuzRacecar for all of the help he was able to give me. I was able to purchase the charger from KINGDO off of Amazon.
I wanted to use it for a bit before I gave my opinion but so far it works perfectly.

https://www.amazon.com/Surface-44W-Compatible-Microsoft-Carrying/dp/B074P3K3RW

Here's the link if anyone needs one as well.

u/geolchris · 1 pointr/Alienware

Read the label on the old one, get the same one. The brick will have a part number / model number on it somewhere. Dell should still have the older ones. In fact, here's a Dell one on Amazon, might be new old stock, might be a knockoff but at least with Amazon you get free returns. https://www.amazon.com/Dell-150-Watt-Adapter-Charger-Alienware/dp/B0030ER9R0

u/Lettuphant · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

I just bought one of these, as it can also replace a laptop's power adaptor: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Energizer-XP18000-Universal-Rechargeable-External/dp/B002K8M9HC

u/audtoo · 1 pointr/ASUS

maybe one of these will work. Or they have chargers with all the types of ends too.

charger link

u/nighthawk05 · 1 pointr/hometheater

Could be used in combination with a rechargeable power bank. Like the ones used to recharge phones, but bigger and with an AC outlet.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L93V1VJ/ref=psdc_7073960011_t3_B07D9JCH5X

u/dr100 · 1 pointr/DataHoarder

It's actually 100W, or even more. But you need of course beside support from the other end (which can be anything starting with a phone, tablet, laptop, etc. that doesn't have such high power budget) support in your device to trigger the mode you want, plus in case you need multiple voltages (like 12V and 5V for disks) at least one (possibly two, depending on the voltage you get from USB-C) DC-DC converter.

u/Sonicmixer · 1 pointr/chromeos

I did look pretty thoroughly at several of these kinds of Power Banks that include an AC plug. From what I gather the issue is that the power in the Lithium battery starts off as DC power, which is then inverted to AC within this Power Bank for the AC plug, then inverted back to DC power in the Chromebook's power supply. Each time the power is inverted like this it looses a fair amount of power and becomes a very inefficient source of power. If you go from the USB-C port which supplies DC power straight to the laptops power input, which is accepting DC power, it improves the efficiency quite a bit. Even this wouldn't be so bad if the battery capacity could just be bigger. Everyone I've found that actually tested their 11in to 15in Laptops/MacBooks/Chromebooks have said their lucky to get one extra full charge out of their Power Banks. Inverting the power from DC to AC and back to DC seems to cut this at least in half.

I was looking at this RAVPower unit for quite awhile until i realized the USB-C port only supplied 15watts at 5v/3a.

RAVPower 27000mAh AC Portable Charger

If I could find a power bank that included an AC outlet and still had a USB-C port that supplied 45watts (or possibly more if I was confident that wouldn't damage my chromebook), then I'd defiantly go with that.

u/Remo_253 · 1 pointr/buildapc

If it's the AC adapter, those are relatively cheap. I don't see anywhere that you gave us the exact model but, as an example, here's one on Amazon for $25. If it's the battery that'll run $40-80 depending on the model.

u/RobotJiz · 1 pointr/facepalm

Special snowflake dongle needed. Try this!

u/dashmoopies · 1 pointr/razer

I grabbed this one on Amazon when I had the 2015 Blade (150watt) https://www.amazon.com/Extra-Charger-Razer-Blade-RZ09-Gaming-Laptop-AC-Adapter-Power-Supply-Cord/dp/B00GDHT6YK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480565117&sr=8-1&keywords=razer+blade+charger

The New Razer Blade with the 1060 has a 165 watt power supply but when I tested my new one it was only consuming 140 at max. For just a couple tests you could use this one on the new blade.

u/spdgoat · 1 pointr/Guitar

The iRig plug is what's called a TRRS plug (Tip, Ring, Ring, Shield). This is a common interface for both mic and earphone (in and out) on the same plug. It works with iPhones, iPads, and Macs because their headphone jacks are actually TRRS jacks that support both input and output.

PCs are less standardized. Even though the jack on the PC looks the same from the outside, some will be TRRS jacks, and some will be TRS jacks (Tip, Ring, Shield), which only supports stereo out with no mic (so output but no input).

If it isn't working, you'll need an adapter to convert from TRRS to separate mic and headphone jacks. These aren't common, but it would be something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Headset-Microphone-Breakout-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B00IU2CYXG

EDIT: Originally linked to wrong adapter (not 100% sure this one would work either, but it looks like the right thing)

u/raginggorillaz · 1 pointr/HelpMeFind
u/sadistic_angel · 1 pointr/MSILaptops

you'd be right, there's a headphone jack, and there's a microphone jack, there is no combo jack.

if the adapter you're using is like this then that's the correct way to do it

u/Sharpshooter98b · 1 pointr/gigabyte

I don't think there exists a smaller 180W power brick. Best I can find is this. It's 85W though, will probably charge the laptop slowly but won't allow you to run full performance. Maybe you can try looking for a USB-C to whatever-the-proprietary-adapter-is-called adapter and then get a compact 65-100W USB-C charger

u/i4get42 · 1 pointr/Dell

The 9550 will charge over usb-c, so if you can pick up a dell usb-c charger you could bypass DC plug.
Looks like they aren't stupid expensive for the 130W one on amazon.


link: https://www.amazon.com/Dell-130W-Type-Adapter-Compatible/dp/B07FJ76DCN

u/rndmname · 1 pointr/mac

Dude... you've already spent $900+ on the Macbook Air. Surely you can afford to spend another couple dollars on a sleeker solution. The Snuglet ($13) immediately comes to mind and I'm sure there are others.

u/D0esANyoneREadTHese · 1 pointr/retrobattlestations

You'll have to find the right plug, but yes any 7.5V supply that can put out 3 amps or more will work. If you're lucky, it'll have something like this next to the charger port that'll tell you whether it's center-positive or center-negative. If you've got a 7.5V supply (or an adjustable bench supply) it's probably worth it to just buy a set of connectors, they're super handy for other projects, not just this one.

u/eula218 · 1 pointr/razer

I have something similar to this that I use as my main charger for my blade. Also live in London.

I bought this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GDHT6YK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Works perfectly fine, just has a ridiculously glowing blue light. I use the razer official blade charger as a travelling one because its quite small...

u/zerorbit · 1 pointr/apple

No problems with cable breaking down, but it kept coming off then used a snuglet. Much harder to knock the plug off now

u/RegulatoryCapture · 1 pointr/Surface

I have one of these and I like the form factor for use in a classroom (under-desk outlets leave the OEM brick dangling awkwardly).

But it doesn't work right...when I have it plugged in and charging, the mouse will occasionally stop responding until I lift my finger. Ditto with the pen/touch acting up. I usually just unplug it when I am actively using it since even with the OEM charger, I sometimes have pen jitter issues that seem to be related to heat from charging.

Seems like other 3rd party charges have these complaints, although nobody claims to have that problem with this one.

They do say there is a 24 month warranty...maybe I should check if they will still honor it...

u/lastnerdstanding · 1 pointr/OmniCharge

I'm going on just specs and illustrations from their page so be aware:

>My main issue, is that I can't use my OmniCharge Pro adapters, cables or power supply with the Ultimate.
>
>Existing Pro PSU (I own two, old-style power adapter and newer "oval" power adapter). Both are 2.1mm, so won't charge the Ultimate
>
>Existing USB-A to 2.1mm barrel adapter. Works great to charge the Pro (although slow) from any USB-A port, such as the USB3 ports on my Anker USB-PD charger.
>
>Dell PSU to 2.1mm male adapter, allows me to charge the Pro with my Dell's PSU, leaving the Omni PSU back at home.

This is where I'm hung up on. All of the issues above should be able to be resolved with the adapter you ordered if the corresponding adapters are all male 2.1mm going into the DC port on the Ultimate. This would solve your issues with existing adapters.

> That's unfortunately DC out, not input, so I still can't use my existing Dell PSU to power the Ultimate, nor can I use my Anker USB-PD 60W adapter to recharge the Ultimate over USB-C. It's a chicken-and-egg problem.

From this sub somewhere, Omnicharge has said that you can charge from a USB-C power adapter so I'm not sure where you're getting that it can't.

From the Ultimate's specs, it can't handle more than 90W input source. Interesting your Innergie adapter works. Then again, it may only draw up to 90W. If that's the case, I'd just use the Ultimate's adapter save the size/weight.

​

This is how I see it working in your case barring any Ultimate output restrictions:

1: Charge Ultimate: Innergie -> DC port (just to be clear, the Amazon adapter would also allow you to charge and output to anything that has a 2.1mm barrel. If you're outputting, you'd need to use a male to male adapter)

I use these tips and will fit just about anything with a 2.1mm barrel: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HORSXZ0/

2: Charge Macbook Pro: USB-C to USB-C

3: Charge Dell: MR30 out -> 2.1mm male to 2.1mm male -> 2.1mm female to Dell OR Charge Macbook Air: MR30 out 2.1mm female -> 2.1mm male to MagSafe.

> Since it's unlikely the Ultimate will actually power the Dell without draining as it's providing power, even with a PSU to the wall, I'd prefer to carry my Dell's 180W PSU with me and use that to charge the Omni + Dell as needed, and use the Omni to power/charge the MacBooks.

From your scenario, you could carry two adapters at most (the Dell and Ultimate charger) to charge everything. Even if you go with a USB-C brick instead of the Ultimate's charger, you could output from both the DC and MR30 ports. Maybe we're saying the same thing but missing out details?

On a side note, why do you need an Air and a Pro and a Dell? Do you need them all simultaneously?

u/Hypera · 1 pointr/Surface

Looks very similar to the one I have. I guess that style are getting popular now. First one I received was defective, second has been working good. Would be nice if the cord a little longer.

u/Mapants · 1 pointr/lgv40
u/my183days · 1 pointr/Surface

I bought this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07459B77H?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title after my first flight with my SB2 because the OEM charger takes too much juice for aircraft outlets and since it’s become my exclusive travel power supply. I leave the OEM power adapter at my desk and use this one anytime I’m traveling. It’s been all over the world and I’ve used it for as much as two weeks at a time without any trouble.

u/PointlessIndulgence · 1 pointr/headphones

I'm assuming the following two things:

  • Your M6 Pro has a headset cable with a microphone.
  • You are trying to use your M6 Pro to hear what's coming from your computer and to use it as a mic into your computer.

    If this is correct, and you have separate mic and headphone jacks on your computer, you have to use a TRRS breakout cable.

    If you're using the M6 Pro with a headset cable, it will have a TRRS plug at the end, because the additional ring (vs a standard TRS) plug is being used solely for the microphone. If you plug a TRRS plug into a TRS jack, you are bridging the two rings so that they're on the same channel (essentially dumping your audio signal directly into your mic signal), and then if you try to split that, you're splitting the now TRS signal into just two duplicates of the TRS signal.

    You need the plug your M6 Pro into a TRRS breakout because it separates the audio and mic channels into discrete TRS connections, which are usually then labeled or color-coded so that that can be plugged into the appropriate headphone and microphone jacks.

    tl;dr: If you have a single headset cable, but a separate mic and headphone jack, you need to use a TRRS breakout cable to separate the mic and the headphone inputs.

    Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IU2CYXG
u/icelandic_toe_thumb · 1 pointr/chromeos

I got this similar, less expensive, one and it works great too. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EM2PGW4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/greenseaglitch · 0 pointsr/macbook

I don't think that will work. You will need a battery with USB-C-out like this one to charge it.

u/Concise_Pirate · 0 pointsr/explainlikeimfive

Your premise is false. Here is a 130W charger I found in 10 seconds. https://www.amazon.com/Dell-130W-Type-Adapter-Compatible/dp/B07FJ76DCN

u/rsop · 0 pointsr/Headsets

It's a TRSS connector. You need a splitter. Headphone/Mic to TRSS https://www.amazon.com/Headset-Microphone-Breakout-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B00IU2CYXG

u/shadowdude777 · -1 pointsr/howto