(Part 3) Best lighting accessories according to redditors
We found 299 Reddit comments discussing the best lighting accessories. We ranked the 137 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
Looks like the tiny LED lights used in decorations (balloons or whatnot). We used them in vases of flowers as part of a centerpiece recently. The light lasts a surprisingly long time.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K7BNSXT/
lamp finial- it screws onto the top of a lamp and holds the lampshade in place. They are easily replaced with all sorts of decorative options like this or this
So something like this could be installed?
http://www.amazon.com/LET-60-Class-Electronic-Transformer-Lightech/dp/B002RSOULS/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
It has a temperature regulator, so that should help mitigate any risks of overheating. Do I need to worry about the amps?
The lamps came in plain boxes from a Habitat for Humanity restore, kind of like a thrift store for housing supply items. I really like the look, but it's definitely possible that they were originally designed for motorized residences, rather than normal housing.
And you've saved me again, as I'm pretty sure I would have been really confused looking for the bulbs for this at Home Depot. I can head to Crappy Tire instead, and I'm sure I can find them there.
Being in a rented house too, I run normal (e27) screws from bayonet to e27 converters and the bulbs work fine.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/skytronic-401-090-Socket-Converter-Bayonet/dp/B003GSK5O4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452702658&sr=8-1&keywords=bayonet+to+e27
Just find the right converter for you.
Look up clear plastic globes, make sure you get one big enough for your head, and just use some foam for the neck area.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00435DYNS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_FccEDb5TMSVK5
According to that data sheet, you should be able to just hook up 12VDC and be good to go. Just make sure your power supply can provide enough amps. 0.6W per module would be 50mA @ 12V. So just count the modules and multiply by 50 to figure out how much current in mA you'll need, then add an additional 25% for safety.
EDIT: The above info is only valid if there isn't already an existing power supply hooked up to the modules.
EDIT 2: something like this would probably have more than enough juice to power all of them: Amazon
The power supply is 40w; each light consumes 8w. You can only run up to 5 on the supplied power.
If you’re willing to cut and splice a wire, you can get a different power supply and splice in the hue connector. Just make sure it’s 24V, CONSTANT VOLTAGE.
I currently have 22 lights running on this 200w power supply. The splicing and re-waterproofing took a total of 10-15 minutes.
Good luck
>I thought there might be a solution to power the camera locally via junction box without having an outlet for a wallwart given the rise in wifi usage. Seems like I have to find my own transformer and hard wire it.
a transformer will only get you a reduced AC voltage.
hardwiring a power supply to the lighting circuit is the least wired option.
but then you'll just leave the lighting circuit on?
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MZ4RFSS/
this guy would fit in a 4" square box.
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MZ4RFSS/
would fit in a single gang.
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you could put a 3/4" mud ring on the box the existing light fixture is on, and probably have room to get the power supply in.
Another idea would be to install an led light. there are some designed to work on vibration (and would use batteries. You could also use a switch such as this:
https://www.amazon.com/Light-Switch-Close-Cabinet-Drawer/dp/B07M5YP9PR
Woah awesome! I'd throw some diffusers on the LEDs though, you can buy channel like this with diffuser strips in it so you don't see each individual light. Really great look by the way. Who did the design?
I believe this is the right match:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JZNPM3W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9pETDbH3YZ7CA
9-24v - 3a
This looks like it fits, but at that price you could probably buy something complete.
Lemonbest 5A LED Power Adapter Power Supply Transformer for 3528 5050 RGB LED Light Strips with Remote Controller LED Display, AC 100V to DC 12V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GKMQ5BD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tu8mDb8HK72M6
It’s a 12v 6a power supply like this one
ZOKIN UL Listed LED Power Supply Adapter DC12V 6A 72W Transformers Switching Power Supply 110V AC to 12V DC For 3528 5050 2835 RGB Flexible LED Tape Strip Light, 72W Max, 6A Max https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FD2VG7F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_S81CCb3086CYM
Philips - Hue Play White & Color Ambiance Smart LED Bar Light - Black (Double Pack) (Renewed) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QP9CY4X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Emn0DbXWM4MYZ
I used this Constant Voltage Power Supply and Low-Voltage Landscape Lighting Wire which can be bought at any hardware store or online. I did it by cutting 2’ lengths off the extensions that come with the lights and then splicing those into the Low-Voltage wire where I wanted each of the lights at. Then you just plug the lights in with their screw in adapter to the section you spliced in. As long as the power supply is plugged in you’re good to go. You can run 9 lights per power supply if I remember correctly, so I’m running 2 power supplies total. Haven’t had any issues in over a year.
I also have a Ring Pro and a 16V, 10VA transformer that isn't providing enough power to even allow the Pro to power up.
I've purchased a 16 Volt, 30VA transformer (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001R5UU0W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
However, I also have cloth bound wires. Was curious if anyone has any thoughts on using these type of wires with a 16 Volt, 30VA transformer and if it's any concern. This is also making the assumption that the cloth is intact throughout the lines, which what i've seen is the case.
I replaced an older low voltage controller (mechanical timer) with a cheap 12V LED Transformer that provided enough wattage for my landscape lights:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D9FTC77
I use a basic smart outlet and can control based on sunrise/sunset, etc. The transformer is mounted indoors, but I believe it is rated for outdoors.
I had previously purchased a very expensive outdoor transformer with an astronomical timer. The new setup is much cheaper and controlling the landscape lights via Google Home or mobile app is really nice. I am in the process of converting everything over to HASS.
I use an 12v rv water pump and a 12v power supply. The rv pumps are based on a diaphragm design and can handle a bit of debris going through them. I actually use an old computer power supply that you just have to mess with a little to perform the same function as the linked one. Just make sure your suction line is below your water level, it should stay primed.
I don't have a mini-PC homelab, but I do have multiple power bricks for my SFF pfSense box, PoE switch, and a couple other devices. It's just kind of a mess in the rack, so a better solution would be great. I suppose the ultimate solution would be a central power brick with multiple outputs, but the only ones I know of that exist are for lower amps. And then there's the problem of multiple voltage outputs.
Maybe something like this 12v lighting splitter would work for several lower power devices.
EDIT: Probably the best solution would be a custom-built box with multiple 110v->12v/9v/5v selectable voltage circuit boards. Start with a 1U or small form factor PC case with power supply and tap into the 12v rails for input. Then split as needed and solder up some adjustable step-down regulators and dial in the desired voltage output. Wire those up to some toggle switches, with the output going to a few panel jacks, the 12v barrel kind.
You can build some pretty small setups with a Pi Zero W running motioneyeos. As for power if you have any external light bulbs on your house you can always run something like this, only thing is you would have to leave the light on all the time.
For my setup I just ditched the bulb (never used it anyway) and used just a socket adapter and then stuffed everything inside a 6" globe that fits my light fixture to keep it waterproof. I painted the globe white (except for a camera window) so no one could see anything but the pi writes to a network drive inside the house so if anyone does steals the camera I still have footage.
I was new to Pi's too and motioneyeos was pretty easy to set up. The network drive took a little figuring out but it wasn't to hard.
Oh man. Great idea! Never think about that before. Thanks man! Will do it later! Thank you soo much! Btw the globe that you mention.
6 in. Clear Acrylic Globe - 1/2 in. Threaded Neck - 3.25 in. Neck Opening-American 3202-50630 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00435F6RU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ycy3DbJZ32S46
Like this one? And i cut it into half?
Depending on your head size, you can choose from the following:
Acrylic Globe 12 inch
Acrylic Globe 16 inch
Acrylic Globe 18 inch
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Some people keep mentioning Vape, but it would only provide a temporary screen until the smoke dissipates, unless you were to keep it on the entire time. Even at 0% nicotine, you can really hinder your breathing having it on for the whole time. The Youtube video (someone already linked) looks like he used a thin veil of badding to the inside. Doing this will allow you to see a little and you could pull a little away to expose the acrylic to give you some better viewing out of the dome.
You can easily get adapters to fit an E27 bulb into both your E14 lamps and your B22 fitting.
B22 to E27
E14 to E27
Just becareful that most bulbs are E17 size as they're a lot smaller, so you'd have to make sure that a "full size" bulb fits into the lamps first.
So I put in this ballast and have left the light switch on for a day now. However, there is no electricity coming through; the light doesn't light up and my multimeter doesn't show any voltage coming through. The lightbulb is good, I took it from another lamp.
Is this normal? Or, what else should I check?
I went with a 16v 30va transformer on amazon. This one. If your voltage is too low (previous was 16v 10va) then it could eventually kill your ring pro which is what happened to mine. Ran great for 5 months then one day i was installing a light switch on the same line and it didn't turn on for 3 days. Ring sent a new pro out that instantly turned on and has been running solid ever since.