Best machine screws according to redditors
We found 56 Reddit comments discussing the best machine screws. We ranked the 47 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 56 Reddit comments discussing the best machine screws. We ranked the 47 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Here, in a pack of 100.
If you're looking for the screws on other sites, the size of the screw is M2-0.4, metric coarse.
Here's some 1/4-20 machine screws that can take the exact same nuts as these 1/4-20 hex head bolts
Have you ever used either a screw or a bolt in real life, or did you just learn the theory?
Do yourself and Reddit a favor, buy both of these products and a box of nuts and do an experiment for us.
Post the YouTube link when you're done, please.
>You are an idiot.
Not a valid argument but if that's all you have, then you're an idiot.
KidneyPuncher has a 10-pack of Phillips pan head screws for $1.95
If you want to go the Home Depot route, it will be cheaper, but they usually don't carry them at their B&M stores. However shipping to store is free and sometimes they are cheaper than Amazon.
Amazon and Ebay carry the fasteners your require, but usually in quantities of 25, 50, 100, and etc. Not expensive to buy in bulk, as well.
I personally replace the stock Phillips screws that usually comes with RDAs with flat set screws. It uses a 0.9mm hex key/bit instead of precision Phillips screwdriver, so there is no chance of stripping the head. Just my 2 cents. (A big thank you goes to /u/slumberland for giving me that gem of a tip!)
LINKS:
Amazon - QTY 100 for $3.67 PRIME eligible
Home Depot - QTY 3 for $0.30 FREE shipping to store (arrives Aug. 8 -Aug. 13)
Hope that helps you!
Ok so a bit longer than anticipated but I would get the 8-32 thread one (theres a lot of screw holes and anything bigger really would be overkill...) to match that get 8-32 countersunk machine screws
Countersinks are what the cone shaped divot around the holes on the AP cages are called, they have screws that have a cone shape by the head that helps center them.
Youll have to drill out the pilot holes that AP has in there to 1/4" hole and the lid to a #16 or #18 drill size hole. Bear in mind, dont go gungho on my advice, its your enclosure at risk not mine, do a test run before doing them all.
An alarm disc lock will alert you if someone has tried to move your bike; however it won't keep a thief from stealing your expensive saddle; I would replace that stupid phillips screw with a Security-Torx Screw.
It comes in a pack of ten, so be sure to share with your riding friends..
Also, if you're on a bagger, replace those useless 1/4 turn fasteners with security bolts
Maybe try something like this
Well I mean... these are a thing.
Spacers and Screws.
I just brought a used HP Prolient G7 server. Some of the hard drives are missing some screws. I am not sure which one I should buy? Is it M2.5, M3, M4, etc? I have some screws at home but they are too big or the screw threads are not the same. It the screws that goe on both sides on the caddy into the hard drive. Thank you in advance. This is for HP SAS 2.5 SFF drives.
https://www.amazon.ca/uxcellComputer-M3x4-8mm-Phillips-Drive-400pcs/dp/B01N8Z4XRR/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3E386PABZHGEB&keywords=hard+drive+screws+2.5&qid=1567996058&s=gateway&sprefix=Hard+drive+scre%2Caps%2C213&sr=8-2
I found something similar, maybe it'll help you with search terminology if this isn't quite it.
https://www.amazon.com/Ochoos-Phillips-Screws-Countersunk-Stainless/dp/B07R49FX2N
My personal mounting solution was Torx security bolts and nylon locknuts (I actually got 3/4" bolts but those were out of stock so I linked the 1/2" bolts which should be long enough). The torx security bolt heads provide a little extra security, not a common tool someone might have on them if they wanted to steal the plate. The locknut keeps it securely tightened, both so they won't fall off and so a potential thief can't just loosen the nuts off the back instead of dealing with the torx security head. Granted if someone really wanted my plate they could just take a sawzall to the mounting bracket but this should deter an opportunistic thief.
I used M3 screws similar to these, that I picked up from my local hardware store (used for push/pull config), worked fine for me :)
thats a shame /:
https://www.amazon.com/Phillips-Countersunk-Machine-Stainless-100-piece/dp/B073RC5LJC/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1538069092&sr=1-3&keywords=2-56+x+1%2F4+inch&refinements=p_n_feature_two_browse-bin%3A2292860011%2Cp_n_feature_five_browse-bin%3A3177285011
$5 100 pack lol gl
If not C clamp like others have mentioned, and you saying you want a screw with a lever on it, Butterfly screw maybe?
See this image.
You will need a screw and bolt similar to this set on Amazon
First, make a square for the drawer pull. make it longer than needed. I will be cut later to match the angle of the drawer.
Second, Drill out the center for a nut to sit inside the pull. Straight 90 degrees. Use a smaller bit and go deep, then one large enough to fit a nut, 3/4 drill down.
Third, glue in nut using 5 min epoxy
Forth, match angle of the drawer front to the pull.
Fifth, use a band saw or sander to bring pull down to the angle.
Sixth, drill a hole into the drawer front the same diameter of the threads of the screw.
Seventh, align the drawer pull and the drawer hole.
Eighth, use a hardware screw from the backside of the drawer front to install pull.
That sucks! These work most of the time:
Klein 32510 Magnetic Screwdriver with 32Piece Tamperproof Bit Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018BS7GY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JNcVDb01SH31J
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VCVBHQZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_9PcVDbXKJWVQF
Gonna try and pick that one up, hope it works:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D4R5EF6/
I know I'm asking a lot, but do you think amy of these would be a better fit?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IZ3F4CM
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-M2x3mm-Nickel-Countersunk-Phillips/dp/B01D9XVAL2/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DDN6XWO
4mm should be fine, just don't over tighten them.
Yeah I ordered a pack off amazon and they worked great:
uxcell M8 x 45mm 304 Stainless Steel Cross Phillips Machine Screw Bolt 5pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019ZEIJYU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xrGJybH26P04G
Thanks! Sorry, I'm sort of hardware dumb. Are those two different "specs" or is that all to be taken together?
I should've specified in the OP, here's the link to what I ordered on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016OCJQBQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It specifies that they are 6-32 x 1/4, so either that's the wrong size or they mislabeled what they sent me.
Would you expect that a local fastener store would carry what I need?
Search Amazon for 6-32 1/4 screw - here is one result:
https://www.amazon.com/DSLRKIT-6-32-Screw-Drive-50/dp/B016OCJQBQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511965312&sr=8-1&keywords=6-32+1%2F4+screw
https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-a15070200ux0106-Stainless-Crosshead-Phillips/dp/B013T1U4LG/
Just check that they aren't m2.5 (2.5mm diameter) screws.
The acrylic "glue" is more like a bond, since it actually softens the pieces of acrylic and chemically bonds them together. Was considering bonding two layers together since they are 1/16 sheets but it looks like it is holding together pretty well. I use this tool to cut the pieces, this pack for the standoffs, and finally these m2 5mm screws. Oh also bumpons from hobby lobby for the bottom and I also got in on the aluminum cone feet in the recent drop on massdrop. Final version of the case will have cleaner cuts. Oh also.. I would recommend a step drill bit for drilling the holes, since the acrylic could crack in the drilling process.
You can find them on Amazon. Here is a 100 pack of 25mm M3 pan head phillips screws. Just search for M3 screw.
You're fine with 1 decimal, if you want to build super low ohm quads at some point yeah I'd recommend getting a standalone ohm meter.
Avoid the caravela as a first mod. The clones are good, don't get me wrong, but the caravela is supposed to come with 5 different length positive pins to adjust for your atomizer and the clone comes with 1. So basically you can only use it with atomizers with an adjustable pin, or you're risking having gaps or battery rattle or worse yet, no connection.
The nemesis clone is a solid choice. It's tried, true, great with magnets, and it's a standard 22mm size. Fasttech also sells colored aluminum tubes for it if you want a lower voltage drop or the look. If I were buying a new mod right now and I didn't have any, I'd get a brass nemesis clone off fasttech with the black or red tube kit.
For the atomize it just depends on how much you want to drop. You can get GREAT results from some of the cheap $5 fasttech atomizers simply by picking up a pack of m2x0.4 machine screws http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NHXNPY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER and replacing the cheap screws most of the fasttech attys come with.
Cheap RDA's:
$6 Fasttech Omega clone
$3-5 Fasttech phoenix v5 nimbus clone (with the above mentioned screws)
Authentic igo-l/w (cheap on 101vape)
Mid end RDA's:
Igo-W + 22mm top cap (cap it all vapes) + optional copper posive pin (about 30-40bux)
Trident v2 clone (about 20bux)
Atomic clone (will be in the wild soon, be patient)
Low-High End:
Authentic Nimbus
Authentic Patriot (some sites are selling it for $50)
Don't be afraid of starting with something lower end, I have a zillion RDA's and my $5 fasttech nimbus clone and my igo-l/w's probably see the most use. Airflow control isn't really needed since you will probably find an airhole size you like and stick to it, that's what a drill's for. I like having it, but things like "how easy is this thing to build on" are much more important.