Best remote-control extenders according to redditors
We found 271 Reddit comments discussing the best remote-control extenders. We ranked the 95 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 271 Reddit comments discussing the best remote-control extenders. We ranked the 95 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
I'd like to have the OP weigh in on this, but IR is pretty "bouncy". Pointing the remote at the door probably gives the remote line of sight to the cable box.
Alternatively, here's a simple $8 solution: http://www.amazon.com/Infrared-Extender-Receiver-Emitter-Repeater/dp/B00AMTRR5K/ref=sr_1_1/187-0235108-9396615?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1416934406&sr=1-1&keywords=wireless+ir+repeater
IR repeater. You plug it in to a box that receives IR (usually small that you can cleanly hide in the room with the tv, then you run the cables in to a closet where you've hidden your AV equipment and it repeats the signal to those boxes.
No it doesn't exist as a cable but it does as a powered adapter to use over Cat5 or Cat6 cable. It's not Ethernet but it may be what your client actually needed. You should have told him that.
You should have also told him about streaming boxes like a chromecast or one of the various other streaming solutions out there.
http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Wireless-WiFi-Multi-Room-Video/dp/B005L9ZZ32 I'm sure there are cheaper options too
Tomb Raider & Rise of the Tomb Raider are two Xbox games that should be in everyone's library. Both are fantastic single player games, with a great story. Bit heavy on the quick time events, though.
Star Wars Battlefront has some decent splitscreen gameplay, although it's pretty much lacking in any other content. Halo MCC also has splitscreen support, and all four Halo titles in the one box.
Halo 5 does NOT have splitscreen gameplay, and the storyline is pretty damn short, so be sure to keep that in mind if you're not interested in playing online.
EA Access is pretty nifty, as is an Xbox Live subscription, which gives you free games to keep each month - both Xbox One and backwards compatible Xbox 360 titles.
Last but not least, Destiny is very much worth looking into now with the Taken King expansion. Most of the story content can be completed solo, with the endgame strikes and raids requiring Xbox Live (which is worthwhile for the free games, in any case).
If you take advantage of the TV features, pick up the Xbox Media Remote and an IR blaster cable if you're not interested in getting the Kinect. This allows you to control your TV's volume, your set top box, and your audio receiver if you have one. The Kinect isn't really used on the Xbox much anymore, although it does allow for handy voice commands.
If you are concerned with frame rate or higher resolutions get something that is "HDBaseT". I think they may need to be directly connected to each other, so keep that in mind.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0107W8UP2/
Close, $180: http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Wireless-WiFi-Multi-Room-Video/dp/B005L9ZZ32 They work pretty well, using one to mirror our living room tv to our kitchen at the moment.
The word you're looking for is "balun". While you can find 4K capable baluns, to the best of my knowledge none of them are passive.
Example of a balun that's exactly what you're asking for, except not passive: https://smile.amazon.com/SDS-Extender-HDBaseT-Supports-Bi-directional/dp/B0107W8UP2/
Knowing the word "balun" will get you much better search results than just putting in the cable specs (this is a search I've been down before).
What you might consider is a PoE (Power over Ethernet) balun kit. This one is pricey... but it supports 4K, and you only have to plug one side of it in (either the transmitter or the receiver) to power, and it'll power the other device over the same cat6 cable that the video signal is transmitted over. So you only need to run the single cable, and whichever end has trouble supplying power won't need it. https://smile.amazon.com/AV-Access-Extender-Uncompressed-Supports/dp/B01GYL54JK/
If your AC has a remote control you can use a z wave IR device to manage the AC. Look up:
https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Z-Wave-ZXT-120-Extender-Conditioners/dp/B00Q6SXTPS
There are other devices with similar capability as well.
You're looking for an IR repeater. This is the one I use so that I can point my remote at my TV and it relays all the signals to the Xbox back in a media closet.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZGK6QS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
No you can use IR extensions like this I haven't used it myself but here's the Xbox support page about it. https://support.xbox.com/en-US/xbox-one/live-tv/use-external-ir-with-xbox-one
I think we should move back to radio for remote now that DSP can filter out unwanted radio signals. Oh wait... this company has just done it just so, and the whole radio transmitter is inside a AAA battery.
Link: http://www.amazon.com/Next-Generation-Remote-Control-Extender/dp/B000C1Z0HA/
But... that's exactly what it is. I have this and it works great. It "hears" the em "noise" your remote makes when you push a button and then amplifies it. The receiver then interprets it and converts it to an IR signal and transmits it through a wire out of a little IR emitter that adheres to the receiver on the device.
Edit: I found my old Amazon order (7 years ago). Here is the product page:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000C1Z0HA
Get any one that's powered. It won't work with an un powered one.
https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Extender-Repeater-BAFX3233/dp/B009ZGK6QS/
It comes with emitters which you can just stick to the front and side step the whole issue, or if you get a 3.5mm cable you can bypass the emitters and use the IR input.
This is crazy. You have no idea what you want because you have no idea what the fuck you're talking about.
I should let you waste a bunch of time and money on this as a lesson on why you should call a professional... but I'm a jive guy so I won't. Here. https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-IR-Repeater-extender/dp/B009ZGK6QS
> My goal is full control using the remote the TV came with.
That's a stupid fucking goal. Your remote wasn't made or designed to do anything like that.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q6SXTPS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WhbECbGE7DANY
Check out this guy. I use 8 of them in my barndominium to control the head units of my mini-split system in each room. Works great. Takes a little time to figure out how to program them for your specific units but once it's up and running, everything works well.
There are IR repeater kits
So up by your TV is a small IR sensor that would capture in the IR from your remote, then a length of cat5/6 would run back to the IR repeater box, and re-send out the IR commands for the rest of your equipment in the rack.
There are other remotes, like the Logitech Harmony hub that does both IR and RF. The hub can control RF systems like FireTV, Roku and other systems that are RF only that don't have any form of IR.
this is cool, but what was your build cost? I only ask because you can buy one new for $8.40 from Amazon.
I'm using this IR repeater and this universal remote. As far as home theater control - mine is bare bones basic. A heavy majority of people who are into this stuff prefer a harmony remote and/or a harmony hub to control their devices. I had a Harmony remote years ago, but out of the blue it quit on me, so I went for something cheaper.
Worked for me with a plasma
BAFX Products (R) - IR Repeater - Remote control extender Kit - Operate 1 to 8 devices! OR more! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZGK6QS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_GqqEub1HY555S
Depending on the setup, this could help with the control issues. Use one of these for each TV, with the emitter over the TV's IR receiver and put the extender's receiver behind the bar where no one can see it. Amazon also has some with two emitters for cases where the TV has a cable box under it.
If you have direcTV, I remember some of those boxes use an RF signal, so you can just cover up the IR receiver and still use the remote normally.
To catch people, the best option is look at security footage like others have said. TV-B-Gone style devices will show up on camera easily.
A few years ago i used these from StarTech Ran them to a PC located in the server room.
Worked well for what we wanted. It displayed powerpoints like a champ and even video content was decent. Never had to deal with sounds o i'm not sure how that plays out.
You can't use the built in Kinect IR Blaster if you're using the adapter. It's a limitation of the adapter. You'd have to buy an additional IR extender and connect it to the back of the console.
https://www.amazon.com/TNP-Emitter-Extender-Extension-Cable/dp/B019Z5PDB6
Yes, but it's not cheap. If you use a Logitech harmony universal remote you can get this adapter;
http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Harmony-Adapter-PlayStation-3/dp/B00267S7XW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1341948756&sr=8-1&keywords=logitech+ps3+adapter
I have it and it works quite well, but with a tiny bit of lag. The official Sony bluetooth remote is fantastic and has great response. I have both but usually just use the Logitech Harmony to turn on and navigate Netflix and Vudu.
Yup. OP, you can get something like this and mount it wherever you want. You could probably power it off the Roku 3's usb port as well.
Amazon: Aketek IR Hidden Infrared Remote Extender Receiver Emitter Repeater System
I got this BAFX one on Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Repeater-control-extender/dp/B009ZGK6QS At first I thought it sucked but after adding some tape over a few of the sensors, it worked perfectly.
this worked well for me: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZGK6QS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
the IR repeater is only $27. I use a Logitech Harmony 700 remote and the above kit.
Whereas the Logitech Hub uses radio frequency so thats an option too. http://a.co/9yZczh7
Why not use Cat5e or Cat6a and an HDMI Balun instead? That way you won't have to replace the cable every time someone gets an itch to change the HDMI standards?
Definitely, here's the first random one I found:
https://www.amazon.com/Inteset-External-Infrared-Center-Receiver/dp/B00J5NRWFO
There are lots though, look around and find something that fits your use case.
Personally I would remove the left and right drawers and add doors instead. Possibly even remove the middle drawer as well and add a basket to the bottom, middle shelf. Then you would have two open shelves, a basket and two cabinets. The similar project you're referencing has the shelves in-between the old drawers removed which is why it doesn't look like a dresser anymore. I don't have any experience doing this so I would just add doors and turn them into cabinets. You would still be able to use whatever blu-ray players etc that are inside the cabinet by buying one of these. I use a similar one because my soundbar covers the sensor on my tv and it works great. Anyways, I love the charm of the dresser and glad to hear you're preserving it. Good luck!
A quick note now that I'm not on my phone:
Some of the sites will say it only supports 6 devices, but it got an upgrade to 8 recently. All you have to do is plug it into the My Harmony website and it will unlock to 8 devices automatically.
It also supports the PS3 bluetooth adapter, which is available on Amazon right now for $25. http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Harmony-PlayStation-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B00267S7XW/
I know you said you only need 4 devices, but I figured I'd throw that out there for future growth.
You are on the right track. You might be able to find HDMI adapters that will use a single cable, but if you can't these ones from Monoprice would work. They use 2 cables though, since HDMI has more than 8 wires usually.
You seem to have a nicely made setup, I'm sure you will figure it out!
Edit : You have Cat6, therefore you can use these ones from Amazon. They will use a single cable by using a higher frequency (that's why they need Cat6 or higher).
I would check to see if your receiver has a secondary IR receiver port. Usually a 3.5mm jack on the back of the unit for an external IR receiver you can mount outside of your cabinets. Something like this.
Edit: Here is a much cheaper version.
You could get this for $180: http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Wireless-WiFi-Multi-Room-Video/dp/B005L9ZZ32/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_1_0
Or this for $170: http://www.amazon.com/Nyrius-Transmitter-Streaming-Satellite-NPCS549/dp/B009E6R89C/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_0_1
Both of them stream in uncompressed 1080p and they claim to have zero latency. You could search other places to find them cheaper but if you're looking for 1080p, this is what you're gonna have to be looking at. You could also get a 30' HDMI cable though and route it around the edges of the wall on the ground.
EDIT: By the way, if you get an HDMI cable, don't get the more expensive ones, there is really no difference between the expensive ones and the cheap ones.
This thing works well enough. I have it and am watching TV on it right now. Not cheap though...
http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Wireless-WiFi-Multi-Room-Video/dp/B005L9ZZ32
well it's only $47 right now for the adapter, and I picked one up for cheaper than that a while ago
http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Harmony-Adapter-PlayStation-3/dp/B00267S7XW
Still pretty expensive IMO, but I really, really love the convenience of only needing one remote for everything.
> IR emitters are like $10 and aren't compatible with the Xbox one
Did you mean "are compatible"?
The Xbox One has IR blaster output on the back. Like you said, emitters are cheap enough.
> As for the mic, you'd need some 360 degree mic solution, perhaps Microsoft will sell one.
Take the Kinect, remove the cameras, and leave the mic array with its beam forming support, noise cancellation, etc. In terms of correctly identifying a single voice among noise without generating false positives, I've not found a better mic.
Sensor for remotes, often seen with Comcast boxes. Like this http://www.amazon.com/External-38-56kHz-Receiver-Verizon-Boxes/dp/B002JSDHCY/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
In my room I have this setup; my PC is connected to an A/V Receiver that goes to TV out, a usb infrared mce sensor (not this one), a logitech harmony 650 universal remote and a kit of philliphs hue lights for software I use eventghost and ScreenBloom to give a touch of ambiance to the room, with all things set up I just press one button on the harmony remote and it turns on the A/V receiver, tv, run the ScreenBloom app to fade the lights and opens steam in big picture, I also have some shortcuts for the SC Chord button to control the lights while gaming.
although I don't know if it would work if you stream your PC to TV with Steamlink or the like, since my setup is for a PC that is directly attached to and in proximity of your TV.
You can show him links on Amazon like this that look just like it.
I use one of these zwave IR blasters designed for a/c units.
https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Z-Wave-ZXT-120-Extender-Conditioners/dp/B00Q6SXTPS
A/C units typically get sent multiple codes at once. Very few learning remotes seem to be able to work. I use this with my Split Duct unit and it works reasonably well.
The emitter is a tiny IR/visible light emitter that would come from a central unit that would relay the signal from a remote, through a door that the remote normally can't get through (closed wood door), via either a radio frequency universal remote, or an IR "repeater kit" with a target to aim at on the outside of the door that would mirror the signal to the other devices inside. Great for inconspicuous home theater installs. The cover would prevent the signal to going to similar units (if that's needed), or typically, to cover up the red flash it would give off when it was sending out a signal, as well as hold it in place (the sticky stuff on them wouldn't hold long when they got warm).
​
Edit: Here is a super cheap kit: https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Extender-Repeater-BAFX3233/dp/B009ZGK6QS
I know the problem you've run into. What you want is an ir REPEATER, not extender. It will be a receiver on one end and a little ir transmitter on the other end. You tape the transmitter part to the IR receiver on the device you want to control.
Like this
http://www.amazon.com/Nextronics-Infrared-Control-Extender-Repeater/dp/B00C5PNW5S
This worked for me. Infrared Resources 9ft 38-56kHz External Universal IR Receiver Extender for Verizon FiOS + Most Cable Boxes and DTA Units. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JSDHCY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7eE6BbA329A23
H/K actually sells their own IR extender system... I’m not sure if they still make it, but it was kind of expensive ($70 if I remember correctly)
I have personally used this cheap solution in the past, and it worked flawlessly when placed correctly:
IR EXTENDER
Edit: I haven’t owned H/K equipment in a few years, so you may want to double check that the connector is compatible, but this worked with my old H/K AVR
Yeah, the Xbox ir sensor is garbage, it's not the remote. Get one of these and it'll work great BAFX Products IR Remote Control Extender/IR Repeater Kit / BAFX3233 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZGK6QS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OdN5CbFFVB27S
Thanks for the reply. Do you know if something like this has ever been tested to see if an Ethernet cable can be used to extend the HDMI cable also? Unfortunately putting my computer near the Rift will be impossible.
I haven't tried using something like this but they appear to support IR and 1080p HDMI over a single Cat6 up to around 200 feet.
If you wanted to go up to 4K it gets a lot more expensive and you need 2x Cat6 cables.
Hey, somehow I missed this comment 2 months ago.
Do you have any advice regarding screen mapping?
I guess I'm not sure when it would come up, outside of a multiple projector setup. I've been using one of these VGA to Ethernet extenders to get multiple outs, but it's really no different than just sending to one output, as they're all mirrored.
When would the rest of it come up? You mention connection types, resolution conflicts, and transcoding video.
This
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0107W8UP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oKSlzb13Y8AEA
And this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EV33R8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_OGXWJEm5l6cLU
Are what you're after.
makes sense. As an alternative, this worked well for me back when I had a cable box and it was in my media closet. You replace one of the remote's batteries with the transmitter battery and it just works.
You haven't specified what kind of cabling or resolution you're looking for. HDMI cabling tends to be unreliable at distances of 50'-75', so I wouldn't recommend going that route. VGA will handle that distance without any problem, but you won't get full HD with VGA--you'd top out at just under 720p resolution.
I would opt for the CAT5 adapters myself if a projector is a 100% unfeasible solution. Although I do have a wireless HDMI box that works out fine for me at home I could recommend. Might not be feasible in a live setting due to interference, blocked signals and whatnot though.
This one works well.
BAFX Products IR Remote Control Extender/IR Repeater Kit/BAFX3233
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZGK6QS/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apip_5uGwENiBndcR4
Monoprice one not so good
Sure. The AV Receiver is a Yamaha RX-A1040 which connects to a Chromecast, Xbox One, and Sonos Bridge. I ran all the wires through the attic to two separate zones: Living Room and Outside Patio. I used one of these Sewell Wall Blades to run power from the media closet to the TV so that I could hide all the wires in the living room and have everything in one location. I also have a BAFX IR blaster and a Fan Cooling System mounted on the media closet door.
Finally, the living room speakers are Polk In-Ceiling and In-Wall speakers. As much as I would've liked to splurge on some higher end speakers, I have a kid and would rather ride it out on "sub-par" speakers until he's past his destruction phase.
My biggest advice would be to run any wire/conduit before you move in. I did this after being in the house for a while and it would've gone faster if I didn't have to work around all of our stuff or worry about making a mess.
Your best bet for quality and latency will be a balun or KVM device with transmitter and receiver; linked is just an example, I use Crestron and Extron stuff with great success, but it can be expensive. You will have to run ethernet cable and possibly terminate yourself.
There are wireless HDMI products out there, but I have not used them. I install AV systems; if you end up getting the wireless, will you PM me with the results?
As for the sound, with either option, HDMI carries audio along with the video. Your TV probably has an analog audio output; either a 3.5mm jack or white and red stereo RCA jacks--6 foot cables linked respectively. It will only be stereo, but it is the easiest route to take, IMO.
I personally love logitech harmony remotes, as long as you are willing to pay a bit to get it setup. I've used a Harmony ONE (the cheaper ones do essentially the same thing) since 08 or so, and it still works well. Couple that with an ir usb dongle for the pc and a ps3 adapter and it will be adaptable for many years of service
I just got a Roku, and I setup "roksbox" for it to access stored files on my computer. Organization doesn't look like it will be easy, but it was a quick way to get access to that media.
here and here or look up "tv control remote repeater".
> Nah, I have split system 220V. I need to research more.
A few ideas
EDIT: I forgot to mention then you can use a ZXT-120 to control the split system. I use them on my Mitsubishi split and they work fine. I have 6 of them. https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Z-Wave-ZXT-120-Extender-Conditioners/dp/B00Q6SXTPS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501630141&sr=8-1&keywords=zxt-120
Great questions!
I have Actiontec http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Wireless-WiFi-Multi-Room-Video/dp/B005L9ZZ32/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_1_0 It's great for watching movies or surfing but the lag it adds just makes games unplayable for me.
How about something like this
http://www.amazon.com/Aerb-Multifunction-Wireless-Keyboard-Infrared/dp/B00K768DHY/ref=pd_sim_e_7?ie=UTF8&refRID=0S7CQKVXS3KBG8QYD2Z8
This would let you control your PC as well as the TV in a single control.
Also with IR blasters, you can allways hide the bulky box and use IR externders to control the TV. It would be a small little cable that would do it.
http://www.amazon.com/Infrared-Extender-Receiver-Emitter-Repeater/dp/B00AMTRR5K/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1426468760&sr=8-8&keywords=Ir+extender+cable
I don't know if this will work with TV, This is more for talking to IR printers and Modems. But you maybe able to hack something together to control a TV with this.
http://www.amazon.com/IrDA-USB-2-0-Adapter-Windows/dp/B004GED7SI/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
Also some UPS have a power saving features that will cut power to the monitor (Or TV in this case) when the computer is shutdown/sleeping. If you can get your TV to auto turn on when it has power that would work.
Thanks everyone for your help. I decided to order this and will post back with my results!
A lot of people are going to recommend the Harmony Home line of remotes (the ones that use the RF hub) with good reason. Everything else you find will have FAR, FAR worse support, community, documentation, etc.
If you're not going Harmony, you're rolling your own and doing something hacky, which is what I do. The main reason is because my media system is based on a Media Center PC which already has a dedicated RF remote.
Another reason is cost, the entry level price for Harmony Home is $99. Wired and wireless RF extenders are considerably cheaper, $30 or so.
I had really bad luck with multiple wireless/RF based IR extenders, so I eventually went with a wired extender: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BLTDZA/
The IR blaster cables run back into the cabinet and the receiver box is stuck to the edge of the TV. I can use all the IR remotes that come with the gear, or a universal IR remote.
The universal IR remote I current use is my smartphone, an HTC One M7 which has an IR port.
This guy's one star review on a popular amazon listing was posted a month ago warning consumers not to buy it. It needs more upvotes:
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-915-000144-Harmony-Link-Discontinued/product-reviews/B005O81U8Y/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_txt?ie=UTF8&reviewerType=all_reviews&sortBy=recent#R3CM0D2I099N2D
I just bought this and installed it today and it works perfectly over Cat5e. Its replacing a cheap monoprice one that used 2x cables and failed after 4yrs.
This is the cheapest HDBaseT unit that I could find, is only powered at one end (user's choice) and has bidirectional IR hardware included. I'm very happy with it.
I use a Harmony remote and it works well, except for the line of sight issue you mentioned. I've been thinking of buying one of these, anyone try something like this?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AMTRR5K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2R8FZH6T8Y8FT
Using Ethernet for the monitors was the plan from the very beginning. Before I put the sheetrock on the walls I had placed CAT6 jacks beside the power outlets for each monitor. Here's a before picture.
All of the CAT6 ends for the entire basement end in a small closet I made to hide some plumbing. I put up a little shelf and put all the components in there. Here's another pic.
At the time I wasn't sure if I was just going to plug the monitors in directly to the network for Smart TV access, or if I was going to try and carry video over Ethernet. I ended up going the video route and used these components:
Amazon: Monoprice 105704 4 x 4 True Matrix HDMI Switch/Splitter with Remote Control
Amazon: AGPtek LKV372A 60m/190ft 1080P HD HDMI Network Extender Over Single Cat6/6a/7 Ethernet Cable with IR Remote Control
As you can see in the closet picture, I have 4x of the HDMI network extenders, each labeled 1-4. CAT6 goes in one end and HDMI the other end. All the HDMI cables are 3' I also got from Amazon.
The HDMI cables all go into the 4x4 Switch Splitter. What's cool about that guy is I can have 4 sources, and control what source goes to what monitor. Right now I only have 2 sources, an Amazon Fire Stick and a Raspberry Pi. The switch lets me display the sources on any monitor I want, so I can have 2 watching the game or a movie, and the other 2 with the blind clock, or 3 watching the game and 1 with the blind clock, etc etc.
Behind each monitor there is a matching HDMI extender. They look just like the ones in the closet. So out of the CAT6 jack and into the extender with a 3' CAT6E cable, out of the extender HDMI with a 3' cable and into the monitor. The extender requires power so it uses the 2nd outlet behind the monitor.
That's all there is to it. I'll admit it was a bit finicky at first getting all the extenders to sync and act right. I believe this is because I'm cheap and was trying to get out as cheap as possible. I tried other extenders that were cheaper first and they either didn't work at all, or were awful quality. When I got these they mostly worked right out of the box, but I had to redo some of my punches at the jacks themselves which was weird because my jack tester said they were perfect but the extenders weren't happy with them at all.
Like this.
You could also do what I did. I bought the little peel and stick IR blasters if you don't have line of site to all of your IR equipment.
Important: If you do this, you will need to adapt the 2.5mm jack on the back of the Harmony Hub to 3.5mm like most IR blasters use. So buy one (or two) of this 2.5mm to 3.5mm Mono Adapter.
Simple explanation:
I was not aware of that restriction, because I have not used Infrared in any of my projects yet. All I've done here is to make a channel selector of sorts. Since IR emitters are basically just LEDs, I just picked a digital pin to send a "blink " signal to. you would need to adapt this design a bit to suit your needs, and the code is definitely not tailored to your need yet, it's just an example of how the selector works.
How the selector works:
Let's call each LED a device that you want to control.
When you want to send a command to that device, You would set the transistor base pin assosiated with that LED to HIGH, send your command, and then set the Device's transistor pin LOW, unless the very next command to be sent is also going to the same device.
When you send the command, any device whose transistor pin is high will have the command come through the IR emitter. If that command is relevant to the device, it will perform the action associated with the command.
Any Device whose transistor pin is LOW when a command is sent will not receive the command.
I'm assuming you are using something like this. I don't know whether or not these have current limiting resistors built in, or if they depend on the device they plug into to have one. I also don't know for sure, but I'd guess that the "tip" of the connector is the Anode, and the "sleeve" is connected to the cathode.
That's one way - it's what I do. The other way is to put the Harmony Hub in a media cabinet and run an IR emitter/extender cable (that plugs into the Harmony hub) to a position where it can see all the components that need to be controlled. Here are reviews for an IR extender cable being used with the Harmony Hub.
https://www.amazon.com/MAXZONE-Infrared-Extension-Transmitter-Compatible/dp/B06XV9V4RM cheaper than a Kinect, turns your TV/Stereo on and off
I used an IR Receiver. One end gets plugged into the cable box, and the sensor goes above the tv. However, I needed an extender cause I am going about 25 feet. It technically is a straight line HDMI run from a utility closet to the TV. How come you don’t recommend running HDMI in the walls?
In the future with a gaming system I figure the kids will be older and I can just mount a shelf to the wall. Now would be a disaster.
Here is the link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JSDHCY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ESo2AbCTHGG7B
Phones with IR Blaster
But I would probably just stick an ir blaster that connects to your phone with bluetooth since buying a new phone for 1 feature would be expensive. An example would be the harmony link.
There's other options for bluetooth IR blasters, a quick google search should do the trick.
Anyone have any luck getting an IR extender to work with this? I have the Next Generation Remote Control Extender which works great with every remote I have but doesn't work at all with the Xbox One and the media remote
[I got this one] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0107LT77S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VHkKxb19VPJD7). There was no setup. Said to plug it in and that's it.
You could use a single PC and an HDMI splitter, while this isn't practical from a wiring perspective... it is possible. You can get a nice GPU and an HDMI Splitter such as the one listed at the bottom of my post. If distance is far... you can get a HDMI over Ethernet converter for further distance.
You have the option of using Digital Signage too.
https://www.amazon.com/LKV372A-Network-Extender-Ethernet-Control/dp/B00Z9OW6DQ/ref=sr_1_5?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1468970990&sr=1-5&keywords=HDMI+over+ethernet
https://www.amazon.com/HD-108-Powered-Splitter-Support-Outputs/dp/B00BTC5S6O
These would allow you to send HDMI and IR over a single cat5e/6
don't run them through your switch though, just directly into your patch panel
https://www.amazon.com/LKV372A-Network-Extender-Ethernet-Control/dp/B00Z9OW6DQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1468067958&sr=8-3&keywords=hdmi+over+cat
Ive used: http://www.amazon.com/Infrared-Remote-Extender-Repeater-Nextronics/dp/B00C5PNW5S/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1395088205&sr=8-4&keywords=ir+repeater with no problem
Thanks, I think this was kind of my plan. I'm not too worried about heat, the space is about 5 feet back and the width of the stairs, plenty of room for the heat to rise too. I might put a small exhaust fan in there if necessary.
Should I be concerned about dust you think?
Looks like the speaker wiring might just be coming through the wall, then going around the room just under the floor molding. It's lots of wire, but if I only have to do it once that should be okay I think.
This should work? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BLTDZA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3KWDRRCKDS7P0&coliid=I1JHZ4FWLTHHHL
What does it do, just take whatever input IR signal and then repeat it to all the IR devices it's connected to?
Or the ability to use an actual remote control directly with the PS4. For example, I'm using this remote for all of my devices, and it directly controls my PS3 via Bluetooth. Harmony also has a PS3 adapter. But nothing for PS4. This is what keeps me from using my PS4 for BluRay, Netflix, Amazon streaming, etc. I still use the PS3 for all of that just so I can use a normal remote instead of a game controller plus remote.
Does the wireless have to be a problem?
http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Wireless-WiFi-Multi-Room-Video/dp/B005L9ZZ32
http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/the-best-wireless-hdmi-video-transmitter/
Yeah I do its this one.
I taped the received end to my TV, then routed the cable behind the wall. Its totally overkill I have only 3 devices that need IR, and it offers 12 total. But it works great.
There's also this HDMI powered unit that I tried before I got the other unit. It wasn't as good, but is a little less of pain to set up.
I just want to state that Logitech already has a product out exactly like this, down to the price point. May I present the Logitech Harmony Link. This product is very close to a piece of crap. Granted, it has a lot of potential, but Logitech has consistently relegated it to red headed stepchild status in their Harmony line. The interface is horrible (on Android at least), updates are slow, it has to check with servers and connect to the Link everytime you start the app, the app isn't even compatible with some newer phones unless you sideload it, no tablet interface, can only control 8 devices, a lot of remotes are limited to basic functions, no show/channel browser like on iPhone, so on and so forth. Read some of the Amazon reviews.
However, once it is loaded up, it works very, very well. It controls equipment I didn't expect it to, such as my 1992 receiver. It is major UI issues that are the core of this products problems, and Logitech seems to have all but abandoned it shortly after it came out. As it stands now, it takes so long for the app to open, check with the server, and load my settings that it is more trouble than it's worth to use it. I just want to open my app and go.
tl;dr - Logitech already has a product exactly like this called Harmony Link. It is crap. Wouldn't recommend getting Ultimate Hub on past experiences with similar items.
I already had a Logitech Harmony, so I bought one of these and it works like a charm.
Yeah on our old TV we couldn't get any good reflection from anywhere it seemed like. We moved into a new house that's a story and a half type design and so the room where this TV was was in an area with more of an open floorplan so there's nothing really to reflect off of.
So I had bought an IR blaster that I fished through the wall and bought an IR shield cover. And more or less just stuck the IR blaster directly on top of the IR receiver on the old TV.
https://www.amazon.com/Cmple-Emitter-Stick-Infrared-Emitters/dp/B004WLA25G
https://www.amazon.com/Infrared-Extender-Extension-Transmitter-Compatible/dp/B01H5A3IWY/ref=pd_sim_23_38?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=98GSE8F3JJVSRNAM14D2
From there I used the 2nd IR port on the harmony hub.
You need something that extends the video signal of whatever type of connection the monitor screen uses. Not USB.
Might be HDMI, might be VGA, might be something else, depending on how old the system is.
Depending on the distance, it might be able just to use a direct cable of the appropriate type, or you might need something that will boost the signal.
If its VGA, something like this would work:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Video-Extender-over-ST121/dp/B000050ZTF
If its HDMI, something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/H-COME-Extender-Ethernet-Transmitter-Receiver/dp/B076KD5LJ1/
There serveral products which will "cast" an HDMI output from one place to another. There are both wired and wireless options.
Our household uses an Actiontec My Wireless and it works well for us. It also has an IR blaster built in so you can have a remote that lives in the spare room yet changes channels on the cable box in the other room. There is about a quarter second delay between button presses which is noticeable, but still very usable. While it has a moderate up-front cost. There is zero reoccurring costs, which is nice compared to a cable box. Whether this one will for you depends on several things.
What is the physical distance between the cable box you want duplicated and the spare bedroom?
You need an IR repeater- IR Hidden Infrared Remote Extender Receiver Emitter Repeater System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AMTRR5K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_U43txbPCAN2B6
The Xbox can't change the channels without the Kinect unless you use an IR extension cable.
Then you can't use voice to change the channels but should be able to use the controller.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tj6hnjhIM_Y
Put them in a closet or shelf and get an IR blaster kit. You can put the small IR receiver on the front of the TV and wire the rest up to a small box.
Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-TM-Repeater-extender/dp/B009ZGK6QS/ref=lp_11039361_1_2?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1409069673&sr=1-2
Are you sure about that? I've generally heard that avoiding wireless alternatives is the best way to go in almost every situation.
It's marked up slightly on Amazon, but free Prime shipping vs Monoprice priced shipping makes it nearly a wash - about a dollar or two difference, which is worth it for the speedier delivery that Prime offers.
Also, comparing Monoprice to Monoprice, their wireless IR option is both more expensive and less well-reviewed than the IR through HDMI option. Even the best-reviewed one on Amazon is more expensive than either Monoprice item and has the disadvantage of needing to change the batteries every once in a while, unlike the IR-through-HDMI option which supposedly can run through the power transferred in the cable.
I'm not saying that you're wrong, just that I'm not convinced either way. If this solution does work, it's the most convenient option that I have, but I'm just not sure how reliable it, or even the wireless method, truly is. Have you used the wireless method?
Thanks guy. So I buy an IR blaster, like one of these? https://www.amazon.com/MAXZONE-Infrared-Extension-Transmitter-Compatible/dp/B06XV9V4RM/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=xbox+one+ir+blaster&qid=1562180021&s=gateway&sr=8-2
​
https://www.amazon.com/Xbox-Extender-Blaster-Cable-Head-WeaKnees/dp/B01J4JV434/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=xbox+one+ir+blaster&qid=1562180029&s=gateway&sr=8-5
​
And this will plug into the xbox itself? Sorry, just totally unfamiliar with how these sensors work with the xbox.
Sounds interesting. I was also able to find this: https://www.amazon.com/Inteset-External-Infrared-Center-Receiver/dp/B00J5NRWFO which multiple people in the comments say works the EventGhost MCE Remote Plugin.
The other thing to remember is that by default Kodi disallows control from other programs on the local machine or over the network so you will have to allow external program control if you haven't already.
TV IR remote extender ?
http://www.amazon.com/Next-Generation-Remote-Control-Extender/dp/B000C1Z0HA
I personally use two of the single device models and they work great. Can be powered by the device itself if it has a usb port. Best part you don't have to buy a special remote. It uses the existing remote you have.
For a single device:
http://www.amazon.com/Infrared-Extender-Receiver-Emitter-Repeater/dp/B00AMTRR5K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416856752&sr=8-1&keywords=Infrared+Extender+Receiver+Emitter+Repeater
For multiple devices:
http://www.amazon.com/Generic-Infrared-Extender-Receiver-Emitters/dp/B00OT8TZLO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1416856752&sr=8-5&keywords=Infrared+Extender+Receiver+Emitter+Repeater
Thanks to the wife we currently hide all of our electronics in an old dresser she re-did. I cut holes in the back for air flow and it works like a champ.
Here's an IR emitter that reviews say work on Xbox One.
You plug the jack into the back of the Xbox, then stick the ends in front of the IR receivers on your DirectTV box (and TV and soundbar, if you want).
If you really want it all, you can then buy the Xbox One Media Remote and use that to change channels and navigate everything. Then you don't need to use the Xbox controller to change channels, and it's easier for a non-gamer to figure out what to do.
Get a signal extender like this. Then you just have to make sure the extender is in sight range of your devices - but that can be inside the cabinet.
I'll just leave this here :) http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Wireless-WiFi-Multi-Room-Video/dp/B005L9ZZ32
Yay wireless technologies :)
For the PS3 you might need either the hub or an additional device. I had to get one for the PS4. https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Harmony-PlayStation-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B00267S7XW
Infrared transmiter, may be used un a computer or with very specific app
https://www.amazon.com/Infrared-Extender-Extension-Transmitter-Compatible/dp/B01H5A3IWY
EDIT: search image for "jack infrared" because of the transparent red thing
The PDP adapter isn't the first such device. Logitech once made a Sony-licensed IR adapter for the PS3 that worked the same way the PDP gizmo does for the PS4. I had one when I owned a PS3, and it worked amazingly well.
Edit: Here's what it looked like.
You need an IR extender/repeater
BAFX Products IR Remote Control Extender/IR Repeater Kit / BAFX3233 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZGK6QS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fC10CbP9YBW8S
It's an IR receiver for the remote. They are routing the signal through an external box before it goes to the TV so it can register if you purchase something through the TV. It just routs the signal through additional equipment before feeding to the tv. Similar product here <https://www.amazon.com/Infrared-Resources-External-Universal-Receiver/dp/B0107LT77S&gt;
I use the PDP Media Remote and set it up to control the stereo and cable box that are attached to the xboxone. Just had to connect the 1/8 port on the back to a IR blaster (this is not the exact one I use but similar) inside the closet where the equipment is. Works great for xbox control, one guide, changing channels, and volume.
Really?...I was hoping I'd be able to use the Alexa to turn on the TV... I may have to get some type of IR Extender. Leaning toward this which I would be able to use over my HDMI to the TV.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CA7EKHK/ref=twister_B01C6U9228?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
IR control is the way to go.
Look at http://www.ibroadlink.com/rm/ or https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Z-Wave-ZXT-120-Extender-Conditioners/dp/B00Q6SXTPS
Many of these more advanced HVAC systems use proprietary controls, so it won't work with any thermostat from another brand.
there are two ways to do blu ray playback on pc as far as i know. the legit and straightforward one using a software like powerdvd (about 50$), or simply extract the actual video from the disc the same way pirates do (i don't think it's morally problematic if you're doing it to blu rays you bought yourself), but you'll see that there are tons of other free workarounds if you google "how to play blu ray on pc" . both power dvd and players that will work with extracted video files (mpc-hc, for example) will be able to do that DTS/Dolby to multichannel pcm.
as for remote, you'll simply need an IR receiver if you don't want to use the phone, and then program some [freeware software that works with IR receivers] (https://sourceforge.net/projects/winlirc/) to link the IR signals of the existing remote of your choice with specific actions in OS or particular programs.
so add another 70$ to my estimate above regarding the pc parts. so that's about 720$, but if you're willing to go second hand i'm pretty sure you can cut another 30% off that as well.
These work just fine and can do a one to several broadcast.
http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Wireless-WiFi-Multi-Room-Video/dp/B005L9ZZ32/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1410292616&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=MWTV200R
We use them in many of our conference rooms on both projectors and TVs.
There are products, but they are not cheap.
A 1080p signal, even at 30 fps is a very high bandwidth. Luckily you only have a short distance to cover, so you probably won't have issues with signal strength, but its a lot more expensive than buying an HDMI cable.
60 GHz wireless HDMI transmitter 1080p 60 Hz + audio: $175
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0077LKEKQ?tag=thewire06-20&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;creative=374929&amp;camp=211189
Various other tech:
http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Wireless-WiFi-Multi-Room-Video/dp/B005L9ZZ32
http://www.amazon.com/Nyrius-Transmitter-Streaming-Satellite-NPCS549/dp/B009E6R89C/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_0_2
http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/the-best-wireless-hdmi-video-transmitter/
There are probably better and cheaper products than these, but I haven't researched them much so I couldn't say.
You can use something a lot cheaper, like Chromcast for example, although I believe it uses a compressed signal so it will have worse latency and image quality, and it maxes out at 720p.
[This](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZGK6QS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_xpkWub0H04R2A
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZGK6QS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_xpkWub0H04R2A) is what I was looking at and is probably what I'll end up buying.
You could get a HDMI splitter and connect a wireless display kit with it. Example: http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Wireless-WiFi-Multi-Room-Video/dp/B005L9ZZ32/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1421026414&sr=8-3&keywords=wireless+HDMI+kit
I tried the cable that came with the tv and it doesn't work as a receiver. Looking at getting the receiver in the link, anybody try one of these?
Infrared Resources 9ft 38-56kHz Dual Band External Universal IR Receiver Extender for Verizon FiOS + Most Cable Boxes and DTA Units. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JSDHCY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LLEYDbQVPBGAE
I used this works good
So here's the thing, the box that Comcast gives you is probably just a digital tuner, and so it can only decompress one (maybe two) videos at a time. I put this device at the place where the cable comes into my house. I then have to control it with an RF remote control. I picked up this thing that turns the remote into an RF remote for around $20:
http://www.amazon.com/Next-Generation-Remote-Control-Extender/dp/B000C1Z0HA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1290966267&amp;sr=8-1
You may want to watch the prices. The downside to this is that every TV in the house shares the same signal, so you can't watch two things at once. This is ok for me, but if you live with several people, it may not be ideal. Also, I don't have any HDTVs, so the "cable out" from this box is fine for me. Obviously, this won't work if you want to use some other kind of cabling between the box and your TV (unless you have it running though your house - I suppose it wouldn't be too tough to do that).
So, I don't pay for a box for every TV - just one. It also has the added benefit that my DVR'd shows are accessible from any TV.
Buy one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JS0CVI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_6-IFwbZZAGAZM
Then you can use the media remote or Xbox controller to control everything.
So you want to control some IR equipment that is on the first floor and some IR equipment in the basement?
I don't have any direct experience with the product, but this one from Monoprice seems solid, but have you considered using an HDMI IR injector? Then you won't need additional devices to power at each end, while using (presumably) existing wiring to transmit: https://www.amazon.com/Sewell-Direct-SW-30062-Dual-InjectIR/dp/B00CA7EKHK/
You can get an IR Repeater, not RF but if you have room for the IR blaster between the speaker and the TV it should work. Another option if you want to spend a bit more, Logitech Harmony remotes are pretty awesome. They do have an RF one but again it's using an IR blaster from its receiver to the TV's IR sensor.
Thanks for the comment. Trying to not sound dumb here. Is that what I'm looking for?
https://www.amazon.com/TNP-Emitter-Extender-Extension-Cable/dp/B019Z5PDB6/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478791792&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=ir+blaster
The idea is to have the IR blasters hooked into the cable boxes, then the harmony hub can connect to the boxes throughout the house, even if it doesn't have a line of sight, right? Then I should be able to control them through the echo --> harmony skill.
I think when I tried this, I had no luck getting it to work with the logitech PS3 adapter. Since I use my PS3 as my netflix and bluray player, I didn't get much use out of this app.
Is this app able to be used with PS3 IR adapter?
It's far more than audio-only - it also carries power and can send/receive data. Examples of what 3.5mm jacks can be used for:
And surely tons of other things.
2 things Steam should do.
This is the one I have.
For all those having trouble with the kinect ir you can check this out. http://support.xbox.com/en-US/xbox-one/live-tv/use-external-ir-with-xbox-one They are pretty cheap too, http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002JS0CVI/
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00Z9OW6DQ
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B003YKX6S6
This is what I plan to use, after more research I decided to go with UTP cat6 instead of cat7.
edit: the cable needs to bend alot so I went with this first and if this doesnt work then I will try a solid core cable.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZGK6QS/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I bought this and it works perfectly for what I wanted.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AMTRR5K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I will say you are correct about the remote but I have two TV's a XBR-55X700D and a XBR-55X850D. I do have issues from time to time but have removed most of the overall junk in the menu. the weird thing is the 850 updated a while back and the Menu is just like the 700 (vertically and on the right side) as before it was a modern UI look and Horizontal across the bottom. I liked the way the 850 was before the update. Anyway the point I wanted to make was the Remote IR sucks and I finally found a solution. I purchased 2 of these. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AMTRR5K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
all has been great after that as far as the remote. The TV UI from time to time has issues but nothing I can't work around. I refuse to Factory default when there is an issue because I do not want to have to re install all the apps and sign in again.
Hey Yeagert.
I actually did something similar at my home just now (literally).
Harmony hub was a bit too expensive for me, so I went with this instead:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016SIE5BC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
and this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5PNW5S/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I have 2 devices that are IR remote controlled, without any wifi connectivity or Alex integration options. One is a Stereo Receiver and the other is a sound activated LED light strip.
Anymote actually has a very nice Echo integration, and allows you to program/save any buttons, as long as you actually have a IR remote for it. You can even set up "macros" or group actions.
For example, when I tell Echo: "Echo, tell Anymote to START (Group command) my stereo (remote name)," anymote performs the following in sequential order with time delays in between per my settings: toggle power on Stereo and switch to bluetooth input.
Another example: "Echo, tell Anymote to START SOUND ACTIVATED MODE (group action) my MOOD LIGHTS (remote name), it essentially: 1. Sends an IR signal for ON, pause, switch lights to max brightness, pause, switch to sound activated mode.
I did notice a few hiccups with this setup. Because it's not direct coding but IR signal relays, sometimes you have to account for misfires - instead of just having it send 1 IR signal, you might want to duplicate or triplicate it just to make sure the signal is received properly.
The extender link I posted above should allow you to pretty much connect anything everywhere?
Those are great, I also recommend them.
Edit: also think about remote control ir extenders - http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009ZGK6QS/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1454267191&amp;sr=8-5&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&amp;keywords=ir+extender+for+cable+box&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51ks35m2ipL&amp;ref=plSrch
I bought this for exactly the same reason, and it works great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZGK6QS
:)
Yes
zwave ac ir blaster