(Part 3) Best reptiles & amphibian supplies according to redditors

oh my god. I’m a rabbit mom and I understand your anxiety so hard. how do people not understand how fragile they are? JUST LOOK AT THEM!
I’m so sorry she’s being so selfish about this. I hate when people don’t do what’s best for pets, not only does it prolong their life but vet bills aren’t cheap. Caring for rabbits is hard, and when someone else doesn’t respect that hard work, it really sucks. I hope she starts listening to you soon - for your bun and your sake. <3

I have a few suggestions for tummy issues (I’ve fostered too many buns to count, dealt with GI many times), even though it seems like you know what you’re doing, I figure info can’t hurt.

1. Sherwood pellets - these pellets are so much healthier than any other I’ve found. I find that they help when their poops aren’t solid, rather than the opposite.
   
2. Have you tried telling your mom that she can give leafy greens? even make a cute lil salad to give a couple times a day? Parsley, spinach, lil bit of kale - I’m sure you know but just in case, here’s a good list of leafy greens .
   
3. Get some critical care in case the poops get less and less solid. Maybe if your mom sees you force feeding critical care, she’ll get why treats everyday are irresponsible pet care.

Enclosure
Glass tanks with screen lids are very bad for ball pythons, you would be looking at getting a tub set up (using a rubber maid/sterilite /iris tub & soldering or drilling holes into the sides - here is a good tutorial of setting that up ). Or you would be wanting to get a PVC enclosure. I have an Animal Plastics T8 for my ball python, it did take about five weeks for it to show up, though. So if you want to go this route, plan way ahead. The tub route is cheaper, but takes more DIY skills. The PVC cage route is more expensive, but very aesthetically pleasing. To make a glass tank work, I suggest covering three sides with foam board to help insulate, and covering most of the screen lid with saran wrap or foil to keep humidity in.

Humidity
A ball python needs at the minimum 60% humidity. This is incredibly difficult to achieve in a glass tank with a screen top. A tub or PVC enclosure makes this super easy. Humidity should be measured on the ground with a digital hygrometer. The stick on humidity gauges that pet stores hawk are often inaccurate and can cause serious injury or even death if they come unstuck from the wall and stick to your snake. I use this two in one hygrometer / thermometer.

Temperature
Ball pythons need a thermogradiant w one end at between 88F and 90F & a cool end of 78Fish - the ambient temperature should never be below 75F, & should be around high 70's. In a tub or a PVC enclosure, you will want an under tank heater - heat tap, heat mats, heat pads. I recommend the flexwatt that you can get with the Animal Plastics enclosure or the ultratherm from Reptile Basics. If you have trouble keeping the ambient up in the PVC enclosure, you may want to get a radiant heat panel, which installs to the ceiling of the enclosure. For a glass tank, you will probably need a ceramic heat emitter installed over the cage to keep ambient temperatures appropriate. CHE gives off no visible light. Red lights are often given out like candy at PetCo/Smart places as good ways to provide heat at night. They are not. Ball pythons can see red light, and it messes up their day/night cycle. I don't have recommendations for CHE because I don't use them.

Thermostats
Any & all heat sources you have for your BP need to be controlled by a thermostat. Failure to appropriately control your heat source can lead to it quickly becoming 120F & injuring your snake. I highly recommend Spyder Robotics Herpstats. You can get larger ones w more probes so that you can control all your heat sources w one unit. They have a ton of good safety features & a lot of people on this sub can answer any questions you have on them. The cheaper ones are around $100ish. If that is too much for you, there are a lot of people who use the Jumpstart thermostats, but they have less safety features & can wear out quickly. They also make a loud clicking sound periodically. I cannot stress this enough, this is not a place to cut corners. You need a thermostat.

Thermometers
I already linked to my recommended combo hygro/thermometer. This thermometer is great because it has a small probe to measure "outside" temperatures. I use this probe to measure the floor on my warm side (I hide it on the ground under the substrate so I know the absolute hottest place my BP can get to). I place the unit itself on the cool side, so I know all my temps & the humidity on one unit. You will also want an IR thermometer gun (there might be better recs than this one). This is good for spot checking temperatures without moving around probes & also checking the temps of the prey items.

Hides
You want at least two similar, enclosed hides. Half logs are NOT suitable, they are too open & they stress out the BP, as they can't watch both ends at once for a predator. Some of the best hides are these ones from Reptile Basics. They are enclosed on all sides with just a small entrance. They are dishwasher safe & also very cheap. You want them to be similar if not identical, so that the snake does not have to choose between feeling safe & thermoregulating. You will want one on each side of the temperature gradient. Feel free to add more that are different for diversity in the enclosure. I also have some fake vines/leaves in mine so that she feels more invisible. Go to a craft store or the fish supplies for these, the ones marketed for reptiles are way overpriced.

Water dish
You will want a water bowl that is large enough for the BP to soak in. This should be changed daily, as they like to poop & pee in their water. You'll want something sturdy as they like to tip them over. I got some crock dishes from Reptile Basics. You don't need any water treatment for the snakes water unless you treat water for yourself. If you tap is safe for human consumption, it's safe for your snake.

Feeding
BP's eat every 5 - 7 days as hatchlings and yearlings, as adults they can go longer. BP's are NOTORIOUSLY picky eaters. The ideal IMO for a BP is a proper sized rat fed either pre-killed or frozen/thawed. I feed frozen/thawed rats from Perfect Prey. Just a heads up - they ship with fiber glass insulation & dry ice. I try to open the packages outside so my cats don't get into it. They come in freezer bags and I just store them in my regular freezer. If even one thing is wrong in your husbandry, your BP will likely not eat.

How Much To Feed
The feeding amount depends on the weight of the BP. You will want a digital kitchen scale - you can get one cheaply at any box store. While under 750g, you want to feed about 10%-15% of their body weight about every 7 days. Once they are in their second year you want to feed 7%-10% of their body weight, after they are in their third year, you want to feed about 5% every 7 to 14 days. I document all feeding days and the weight of the prey in my google calender.

You should be weighing your snake at least once a month to track how much you should be feeding. You should not disturb or move or handle your snake for at least 48 hours after feeding.

Frozen / Thawed
I get the rat out the night before the day I want to feed. I put it in the fridge. About two hours before I feed, I get it out of the fridge and put it on the counter to get it to room temp. And then I soak it in a zip lock bag in warmish water (I use a temp gun to get water around 110F) for about 20 minutes, and use a temp gun to make sure the rat is around 100F, and then I run the head under running hot water until its 110F. The head of the prey should be warmer so the snake has a target. I then use tongs to move it around in the enclosure to mimic it being alive. She (usually) strikes pretty quickly. If she doesn't, I leave it in overnight, and throw it out in the morning if she doesn't eat it.

I prefer frozen thawed cause I can buy cheaply in bulk. It's also safer. As BP's get bigger, they require larger prey - and rats have sharp teeth and sharp claws and can seriously injure your snake.

Myths of Cage Aggression
You do not need a separate cage for feeding it. This is a myth. The best way to reduce stress at feeding time is to feed in their regular enclosure. This minimizes the risk of regurgitation.

Substrate
Stay away from aromatic woods - such as pine. A lot of people like to use coconut husk, unprinted newspaper, or paper towels. There are pros and cons to each. I like paper towels, they are cheap and easy to clean up messes with. I use PVC enclosure so I don't need a substrate that helps with humidity like coconut husk. This should be spot cleaned whenever a mess is made. Aspen chips can mold super easily so not really recommended. If you have a chip type substrate and are worry about ingestion of substrate while feeding, put a plate down before hand.

Shedding
Hatchlings shed more frequently, but you should expect regular shedding. Usually the most visible sign they are about to shed is them getting cloudy or "blue" eyes - just google image search for "ball python shed blue eyes". Once they "go into blue" you want to leave them alone as much as possible. Check in on them to refill their water & make sure their humidity is correct, but don't handle or disturb them while they are shedding. You will probably see them remove their skin about a week after they go blue. Right right before they shed, their eyes will clear up, but don't be fooled - if you haven't found their old skin they haven't shed yet. Once you have their old skin, you will want to remove it & inspect it. You might need to moisten it, but unroll it (there might be a poop in it) carefully & look for eye caps and make sure the whole skin is in one long piece. Then inspect the snake for any stuck shed. Don't pull off the stuck shed, but soak your BP in some warm water & it should come off mostly on its own. Stuck shed is usually a sign that humidity is off - so try to identify ways to increase humidity.

After clicking on OP's link, Amazon has suggested several things, from roaches to 1000 Live Superworms.

Eyy! My time to shine! I have a red eared slider in a 150 gallon plywood aquarium I built. For filtration, I would recommend a Fluval Fx-5 or 6. You want at least 2 times your gallonage in filtration. For lighting fixtures, get some good reflective domes with ceramic sockets. I've had great luck with these ones from Exo Terra. Now for lighting, you will need a source of UVA and UVB as well as heat. The UV light is needed for calcium absorbtion. Without it, their shells will become very unhealthy and it may kill them. The best way to accomplish this is with a Mercury Vapor Bulb such as that one. If the bulb doesn't supply enough heat for the open topper, you will need a Ceramic Heat Emitter. You will likely need a heater for the water. DO NOT USE A GLASS HEATER! Use one with a metal body such as this one. A turtle's shell could break a glass heater and electrocute them. Please note that red eared sliders can climb pretty well, so you will likely need a cover for the basking area. Also, if the turtle is female, please make sure they have a nesting box available. They are easy to put together and with out it, the turtle could become egg bound and die. For substrate (Material at the bottom) avoid gravel. Turtles tend to eat it and it can also potentially kill them. I use a heavy filtration sand instead. It's heavy enough where the filter will be unable to pick it up for the most part. If you have any other questions, please ask away!

To start off
What's the size of the tank?

What is her diet?

What are the temps?

Get rid of the sand. Use tile (like slate you can get a few for like 10$ at a lowes or home depot), or repti carpet, until then use newspaper or paper towel

Get a bigger hide

Get a tube uvb bulb ideally reptisun 10.0. (link: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00AQU8HKO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PQqWCbQQA43XZ)

I think $150 is a little low of an expectation for startup costs. I spent about $300 getting my guy set up, and part of that was experimenting with getting the drainage right. Later on I also spent $130 on a misting system, which broke about 2 months later. But I digress.

As for first time species, I think a male veiled would be a good choice. They are more forgiving of mistakes in husbandry (care and keeping) than other chameleons. They are also less expensive. The cons are that they often have a less friendly temperament than other species and don't have the crazy colors like panthers do.

I say male because then you don't have to deal with laying eggs, which females will do even without a male around.

Here is what I would consider a pretty comprehensive list of things you'll need:

1. Screen cage -- 18"x 18" x 36" (I got mine here http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiBreeze-Screen-36-Inches/dp/B0027J0VZ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369116670&sr=8-1&keywords=screen+cage)
   
   
2. thermometer and hydrometer gauges
   
   
3. Heat lamp fixture
   
   
4. Heat bulb -- believe it or not, a normal incandescent bulb you buy from walmart will do fine, as long as it's getting up to the right temperature. The "special" heat bulbs you buy at pet store chains are the exact same thing marked up. You may have to experiment with wattage. Do NOT go above 100 watts. I use 100 watts for my male veiled because I live in a basement and it is cold down here. Most people need 60-75 watts. For an adult veiled, the basking spot (directly under the light) should hit 90-95 fahrenheit, while the rest of the cage should gradually drop in heat from there to 70ish degrees at the bottom. Typically, a single basking spot that hits 90-95 will make the rest of the cage the appropriate temperature.
   
   
5. UVB bulb -- Absolutely necessary. Use a 5.0, not a 10.0. 10.0 is for desert animals. Here's more info on the UVB and why it's so important. http://www.chameleonforums.com/care/lighting/
   
   
6. Hood for the UVB bulb
   
   
7. dripper -- chameleons drink from dripping water only.
   
   
8. Mister -- hand mister or automatic mister if you can afford it. I use this one mister
   Some people have had them break easily but mine's never had a problem. A little spray bottle just won't cut it.
   
   
9. Vines and branches. You have a few options. Cheapest is to get your own branches and sterilize them. Next cheapest is dowels from a hardware store. The prettiest option is to get various vines and fake plants and branches from pet stores or online. Make sure to provide a lot of horizontal climbing space as well as vertical.
   
   
10. Plants. I highly recommend live plants vs fake because live plants hold water droplets and humidity better. I use Arboricola schefflera, other common ones are Ficus benjamina and Pothos. They are inexpensive and easy to find at the local hardware store :)
    
    
11. Supplements -- Calcium WITHOUT D3, Calcium with d3, and a reptile vitamin.
    
    
12. Cricket holder
    
    
    THINGS YOU SHOULD NOT BUY
    
    
13. No night heat bulbs! Chameleons can handle the drop in temperature at night and light at night interrupts their sleep cycle.
    
    
14. No substrate! It is too risky and has caused the death of many chameleons who have accidently ingested it. The only one that might be safe is the reptile carpet stuff.
    
    
15. No water bowls or waterfalls. Chameleons like to poop in them and also it's a risk of drowning. They won't drink from them.
    
    
    Basically, I am an insane chameleon mom and I know this might be overwhelming, but I just want to help. I have a lot more information about how to use supplements, feeding, water, and light schedules if you want it. Hope this helped and good luck with getting a chameleon!
    

My friend who specializes in reptile rescue/rehab uses this at their shelter: https://www.amazon.com/Zilla-Supplies-Jump-Start-Appetite-Stimulant/dp/B000QFOIDE

but I got Dan’s via the vet’s office this time. :)

The only good to come out of the “cage” is for young babies. And even then this doesn’t have much ventilation. A screened cage is what you’ll need.


a cage like this is what you’ll need

Edit: link

I didn’t feel the need to bake it, if felt very clean. It is a big bag, but I personally have the storage space. You can use repti sand from your local pet smart or petco as long as there is no calcium in it. Zoo Med ReptiSand, 10 Pounds, Desert White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DIZKC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9IWIDbZKCQMK3

But it’s quadruple the price, for one fifth of what you get with the other bag. But it’s a great temporary option.

A high quality chinchilla sand is totally fine in my experience! Just don't take a super cheap one with bad reviews and it shouldn't be a problem.

Edit: This one seems to be recommend by a lot of hamster owners in North America!
Basically no dust they say

This is the kind of bulb you are looking for. It supplies UVA and UVB.

You will need a lamp to put it in and either a clamp or a stand to fix it above your aquarium.

If you have farm suppliers in your area you could look for stock tanks like this. They will be cheaper than the size of aquarium you will need when the turtle is an adult (100gallons). This is of course when the turtle is older. Right now as a hatching the 13g is probably the best you're going to be able to do right now.

Be sure to create a platform that the turtle can use to get out of the water entirely to bask in the heat/UV lamp. The heat keeps the turtle warm and comfortable (being cold blooded) and the UV rays are essential to it's health and growth.

You should be feeding pellets for now but when the turtle is older and larger the diet will need to be changed. Please feel free to revisit this sub at that if you would like for more dietary information.

Good luck!

Yeah, those Zilla kits all are pretty much terrible. You're better off not using a kit at all actually, since they are way overpriced compared to buying/making the things you need individually.


Definitely go for the 20 gallon long tank. That size tank is actually ideal for a single adult leopard gecko. Instead of the lights, you'll want to heat the tank with an under tank heater under one side that is controlled with a thermostat. That's not optional, since a UTH can get very hot if it isn't controlled. I use the Hydrofarm thermostat, and recommend it. It certainly isn't the best out there, but it does its job and you can't beat the price. Be sure to have a digital thermometer that can read the actual surface of your gecko's substrate, not the little ones that stick on the glass. A thermometer with a probe alongside an infrared temp gun works wonders.

I'd personally also ditch the reptile carpet for tile as well, since my guy kept snagging his toes and jaws on the carpet and the tile is a breeze to clean, but if yours does fine with the carpet it should work fine, just don't use sand. Be sure to have three hides: one on the cool end of the tank, one on the warm end, and a humid one. Exo Terra is my personal favorite for hides, but store brand ones work fine, or you could even make your own.


I can't really say how old your gecko is without pictures, but if you got it from a pet store it's probably pretty young. Be sure you dust its food with calcium and vitamins. Vitamin D3 is particularly important. Repashy Calcium Plus is great, since it's an all-in-one powder, but I know alternating Repti-Cal and Reptivite works as well.


Crickets are a great thing for it to eat actually, better than mealworms. However, variety is always nice, but I don't have a lot of tips on getting a gecko to try new foods since mine isn't picky. Dubia roaches, if you can get over the ick factor, make an even better feeder than crickets, and phoenix worms and Calci-Worms are also great options. I'd stick to feeding your gecko as much as it can eat in a night if it's a baby. You do need to catch and remove any crickets that aren't eaten in 15-30 minutes. I always try to corner them and grab them one at a time, even if that can take a while.

Also, be sure you're gutloading crickets before feeding them as well. Basically, feed them nutritious food before feeding them to your gecko. I recommend either Bug Burger or Cricket Crack, but there are a lot of options out there. Toss in some bits of carrot, potatoes, greens, or fruit as well, or use some gel polymer to keep them hydrated.


Sorry for the massive wall of text, but hopefully this helps! Good luck with your little buddy!

He doesn't look too big, but some can grow really fast. This tank size may last you a couple months while you look for another. Supplies that you need ASAP are the UV light/Heater lamp and more water with filtration. When adding tap water remember to treat it with a dechlorinator that also gets rid of heavy minerals. If you're looking to save money on a tank, wait for a pet store nearby to have a dollar a gallon sale, or look locally for deals on used tanks w/ accessories on craigslist.

I recommended a thermometer for your water and basking area because particular species of turtles do better at different temperatures. I'm not sure what size that tank is but I'm guessing around 10-20g and would do well with a smaller heater. Your filtration should be rated 2-4 times the amount of water in your tank, and have 3 stages of filtration because they can be super messy.

P.S. If you know what size tank you have, and what you're planning to upgrade to I could recommend you some tank media that would work for you

Thank you! I got it off amazon, i saw it recommended on a few different threads & it does give very accurate readings! Here’s the link: https://www.amazon.com/Flukers-Digital-Thermometer-Hygrometer-Reptiles/dp/B0009YJWW4/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=hygrometer+and+thermometer+reptile&pd_rd_r=dc115e19-8d6d-483d-bf66-deae0ceee0eb&pd_rd_w=9ce11&pd_rd_wg=0q5MQ&pf_rd_p=67c9d84c-d98a-4415-a549-dd3360e9d207&pf_rd_r=98P2SG8ZGD7H5P5B0PBJ&qid=1568476524&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Cresties are a great starter pet! They are quite easy to keep. They are arboreal and do require a vertical enclosure with plenty of vines/ branches/ plants to climb on. They thrive in temps from 78F-65F. Don't allow the enclosure to go over 80 or under 65 though. Start with an enclosure this size and move up to something like this once the gecko reaches about 15-20 grams.

Cresties do very well on a powdered diet (mixed with water of course) such as Pangea or Repashy. My 3 year old girl really prefers the Pangea though. I definitely recommend it!

Cresties come in a variety of colors and patterns. If you want something basic you could buy one at your local pet store, but reptile expos are a much better place to buy live animals. Better colors, better breeding, and better prices! So do your research, and visit the next expo in your area.

Cresties should generally be house individually. Females can live together on occasion, but fighting can be a common occurrence. Please do not breed unless you have done lots of research, have high quality breeding stock, and feel that you can better the crested community with your offspring.

I keep my turtle tank bare because they can create a lot of waste but if you want to spruce it up a bit you can add some river rocks! Make sure to wash them a bit since they are a slightly dusty

Exo Terra Turtle Pebbles, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035HD408/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UZMODb2Y843TK

Also I dunno if Tuck has a uvb or heat bulb? He'll need those to properly shed and prevent metabolic bone disease

This is what I have for my girl

Zoo Med Aquatic Turtle UVB Heat Lighting Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CYDEARU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_g7MODb4DVDTNA

Zoo Med Reptile Lamp Stand (Large) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255OUO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_99MODbSNSH1X9


Hygger Submersible Aquarium Heater, Adjustable Fish Tank Heater Compact Reliable Betta Heater, Heat-Resistant Milky Quartz Made, with External Temp Controller, 50W/100W/300W, 7-60 Gallon (300W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G4BKPHB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_f.MODbB3P6Q26

I hope this helps you out!

Reptihabitat kit $154 and that's overpriced considering how much of the stuff in it you'll just throw away. You can get a 20 long and a folding screen top from Petsmart for about $50 and the 2 light dome for another $50.

https://www.petsolutions.com/C/Reptile-Habitats/I/Zoo-Med-ReptiHabitat-Bearded-Dragon-Kit.aspx?catargetid=520009670000580654&cadevice=c&gclid=CjwKCAjw2s_MBRA5EiwAmWIac2ZBedmIdyBdq_7s09x4txgNz-FvlD5uiNVmX3KfTKu4lo9XpjanfBoCGVUQAvD_BwE

14" t5 hood $38.80

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptisun-T5-Ho-Terrarium/dp/B00M9ONY1W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502887235&sr=8-1&keywords=14%22+t5

Half log $8.60

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Habba-Extra-Large/dp/B0010ONMV4/ref=sr_1_7?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1502887697&sr=1-7&keywords=reptile+hide

Hide XL $25.98

https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Reptile-Extra-Large/dp/B0002AR5BA/ref=sr_1_21?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1502887697&sr=1-21&keywords=reptile+hide

12" t5 10.0 Bulb $20.77

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N1DY82E/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp_2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3171424582&pd_rd_wg=9dlUL&pf_rd_r=5FMKXWA2ASD8TY18EGDD&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00N1DY82E&pd_rd_w=bTBUC&pf_rd_i=14%22+t5&pd_rd_r=GGP34DN67RR24AP1GD50&ie=UTF8&qid=1502887808&sr=2

Everything you see here can be had for $248.15 brand new. As soon as you walk out the door of the pet store, that stuff is worth less than half that. Also considering that this setup is not going to work for an adult and it becomes even less desirable. If I were looking to sell this setup I would sell on craigslist and consider myself extremely fortunate to get $100 for it all.

I would use this setup until he is a little older. A good adult cage for a veiled might be this.

Make sure you pic up some critical care and some probiotics for post surgery. Hopefully you'll get some antibiotics from the vet but piggie stomachs are pretty sensitive so you should use probiotics also. My boys love the critical care and the bene bac so you shouldn't have to worry about Teemo rejecting it.

I use eco-earth as well in my gecko cave but that stuff dries out really fast for me. Also, my geck likes to digs and kick all the eco earth out of the cave and make a big mess >.<

Since the other person couldn't give you approx prices for beardies, I can do that!

​

I'll repeat this at the beginning, but do not buy starter kits. It's tempting. Do not buy starter kits. They will have items that are dangerous to beardies.

Setup:

Terrarium - Very basic setup. I've seen this brand up to $190 locally, but of course it's cheaper online. ***Note: It's not suggested you get this size enclosure immediately, unless you're rescuing or purchasing a young adult or adult. Hatchlings can live happily in a 20gal glass tank for their first 9mo or so, but they grow quickly!

Substrate - Paper towels, newspaper, or ceramic or stone tile. I spent $8 on slate tile and broke it to fit my terrarium. All other options are dangerous to beardies in some way or another. No sand. No repticarpet. No gravel.

Light fixture - $37, but if you look around you can find something non-branded for much cheaper than this. Must be a bare bulb visible, no cover to diffuse light. I used to have a 4ft shop light fixture, but went down to an 18" fixture just for the cheaper price of the bulbs. Which comes to...

UVB bulb - $20, replaced every 6 months. Very important to replace regularly.

Heat lamp dome - $12

Ceramic heat emitter - $12.

Reptile calcium - $2-5

Food dish - $5 max?

Plus whatever decor you want. Most people go for hammocks, a hide, fake plants. Real plants aren't suggested and will either be destroyed or eaten, and many are poisonous. Beardies do not need a water dish (too much humidity is actually bad for them) and do not frequently drink from standing water, so owners usually bathe them weekly to give them opportunity to drink their fill.

Baby bearded dragons eat about 80% live food and 20% plants. By the time they're adults (about 18-24mo) they transition to 80% plants and 20% live food. How much you spend on food will vary depending on what you're buying for their staple, but I would buy a butternut squash for probably $2 or so, dice it up, and freeze it. My guy loved it. I'd supplement with other foods on the safe food list, a mixture of fruit and veggies.

Say about $5 per 2 weeks for live food for a baby and however much for veggies. Thankfully for the veggies, anything your beardie doesn't want to eat, you can, so I don't count it as much haha

While beardies DO have an expensive setup (like most reptiles), their actual maintinence costs are fairly low and their adorable derpiness is absolutely worth the initial cost! They can live up to 15 years or so - my boy, Warra, was 12 when I had to put him down due to an inoperable tumor in his mouth. It's been close to two years since I've had one, and I miss having beardie compansionship every day! I'm slowly succumbing to the urge to get a new baby...

​

Edit: I wrote all of this, and forgot the price of the beardie...... Beardies can range anywhere from $60 to $500, depending on whether you're looking for a normal beardie, or a morph!

Rather than waste time modifying your current set up I'd return the fixture/bulb and go with the T5HO. The bulb lasts 12 months rather than 6 and it's powerful enough to sit above the mesh. That's just a matter of personal preference though.

Edit:
Bulb link
Fixture link
Not sure if the sizes match up but that's the light I use.

I designed and got a custom fiberglass tank molded, designed with slopes and basking platforms, costs about 300+ usd? Can't remember. Lots of places does this.

But the slopes will be real slipper and I had to glue small rocks on them (aquarium safe silicon gel) for the RES to climb. Though they still prefer just struggle up from the sides.

It was big enough for me to throw 2 of something like this and let them use it to chill / assist them to climb up the platform.

From my short experience: really not enough algae to feed them, but if you have tadpole food coming within a few days, they will survive.

The containers will need to be either ventilated or wider (bigger surface of exchange water-air). And you'll need a source of new water in a close future.

Once tadpoles get out of the water they will change their diet. You'll need to either find tones of bugs/worms, or release them somewhere wet. If that's the food you bought, it's really only for tadpoles.

Apparently it's hard for me to find things that freak me out.
But I found something.

Oh and HI I'M STEAMY!

That should be fine for establishing an estimate of what lighting you'll need, but I always go for digital. This is what I use, and I love it.

The reason these are much better is because they're much more precise. They help you better control the environment in the cage. What you have right now, though, should help you figure out how much lighting you'll be needing and from there you can make finer adjustments.

If you're keen on doing some work to save money and have some tools lying around, you could build your own enclosure for much cheaper than premade ones. There's plenty of tutorials and the materials (usually wood or acrylic) are fairly affordable. The long term costs of owning a snake are pretty negligible, it's the initial cost that's going to be pretty high.

Aside from the enclosure, you also need; a heat mat (ex), a thermostat (ex1 ex2), thermometer and hygrometer (ex), substrate (ex1 ex2), 2 hides (ex), water dish (ex), ceramic heat emitter (ex), cleaning supplies (ex), and a mist bottle (ex).

Those are all just examples and some of them might not work for you, but it should give you an idea of what to look for. Things that aren't "technically" a requirement but are highly recommended are plants/decor and a light (UVB if you want to spoil them) to provide a day/night cycle. If you're wanting a Ball Python, options are practically endless on MorphMarket. Just make sure you do your research on a breeder before buying.

I've got 2 of these and 1 of these. I much prefer the under-tank one, as it's adjustable. The other one sticks to the side of the tank and you can't move it without destroying the adhesive, though you can replace it with adhesive from Home Depot or something.

If you're in the US, you can order it on Amazon.

If you're looking to order off Amazon, this is a better deal: https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiSand-Pounds-Desert/dp/B0002DIZKC/

It's twice as much, but you get 6+ times as much sand. Reading the reviews on that other sand, it only fills about a sandwich bag - which won't last 2 Robos very long (they loooove to be messy with it).

To truly be economical, go to a hardware store and get a big bag of child's play sand -- a ton for incredibly cheap. You might want to bake and sift it, but it's the cheapest option by far.

Needs some more decoration and stimulation for the dragon! Give it more places to hang out in. The double lamp will be okay for a little while, but I highly recommend you get a large basking lamp for the warm side and a UVB tube (reptisun 10.0) that covers the rest of the tank so there's nowhere that the light isn't covering. Also, the hammock definitely should be raised a bit, if it's on the floor there's really no point in it. Finally, get another, perhaps bigger bowl. You should have one for worms and one for a salad every day. A water bowl is optional.

Overall, about a 5/10. It's a good starting place.

Link for reptisun: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K2BN7HK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jJKBzbR93V32J
(The actual hood for this could be found at a pet store or online, I got mine at petco)

The hood I use for my basking bulb: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OS0SB8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nKKBzb8KP9T4W

My basking bulb itself (or at least similar enough to it): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CRJXJZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ILKBzb8CFDQNE

Exo Terra sells a heat lamp and mount
7 inch lamp housing
bracket
The lamp housing supports up to a 150w bulb
And you might want to regulate it with a rheostat
Checking temps regularly with a temp gun

Or you can use a thermostat with the probe on the hot side to regulate the CHE, but I've heard of snakes moving them causing temps to drop or climb, depending.

Try an appetite stimulant. It's fairly inexpensive and worked for my little one who was refusing food. Try this stuff

I liked this the best:

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Aquatic-Tadpole-2-Ounce/dp/B002DZI1K6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520212021&sr=8-1&keywords=aquarium+frog+food

But I also had success with this:

https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-77012-ReptoMin-1-06-Ounce-85-ml/dp/B0040HFTIC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1520212021&sr=8-2&keywords=aquarium+frog+food

Edit: I say I liked the first one best because it was cleaner. The reptomin got mushy and cloudy

Edit 2: I'd like to add that the most cited ADF food is the HBH pellets. The reviews for these are great, specifically for ADF's, and if I had ADF's again I'd definitely get these. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QFS8J6I/ref=psdc_2975505011_t3_B002DZI1K6

nah this is when you bring 1000 live super worms

Looks like it's one of the coated wire variety, like so: https://www.amazon.com/Fluker-Labs-SFK51019-Branch-Habitat/dp/B0009YEB52

They're strong enough to support smaller snakes free-standing since it uses a lower-gauge (thicker) wire as the core. Just twist it around into a sturdy shape and you're good to go.

Yeah I just ordered it I’m glad it’s this one she likes because it looks so cool especially when she sticks her head out Exo Terra Primate Skull Terrarium

It's a cling on one by All Living Things, and I got it at PetSmart! Link!


It was a dome fixture that came with a kit(It's kinda cheap but it works), It came with two. Also, I was using this PetSmart brand bulb that was a 100 watts,(brand was All Living Things, DO NOT get it. Total crap), and another 150 watt house hold bulb and had to use both of those to get to 105. It was bad. But, Since that damn 100 watt went out (in less than a month) I gave in and bought a ZooMed Basking bulb from PetSmart, It was about $20 for 2. But, here it's 10 for two(never knew or I would have got it, oh well!) So, it'll save me a trip when this one goes out.

You could probably use a dome like this. or this And this one I had to raise it because it got to 116 and it was too hot.

Just make sure the bulbs wattage doesn't exceed what it says it can take on the little sticker.

While the wounds are healing do this twice a day:
Take a washcloth with hot salty water and hold it on the wounds to soak them and clean them.
Spray them with this: http://store.vetericyn.com/index.php/wound-and-skin-care/vetericyn-all-animal-wound-and-skin-care-4-oz-liquid-pump.html
Make sure they do not close over from the top and have pus building up under the scab. Make sure they are closing from the inside. The soaking with the wet washcloth will help this and the vetericyn will keep the wound from getting infected (and be safe for your rabbit).
This is all information our vet gave us about caring for wounds and she is a very good rabbit vet.

As far as bleeding, rabbits are small and bleeding out is a serious danger. Stypic powder can help stop bleeding from small wounds. http://www.amazon.com/Miracle-Care-Kwik-Styptic-Powder/dp/B0002H3RBU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1375141400&sr=8-2&keywords=styptic+powder
Clean q-tip in the powder and dab it on the wound.

If you are worried your bunny isnt eating properly, try critical care:
http://www.amazon.com/Oxbow-Critical-Apple-Banana-Supplement/dp/B001FKACXO/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1375141438&sr=1-2&keywords=critical+care
It says to mix with water. If your bunny isnt eating it, get some canned organic pumpkin or a little bit of banana to mash up with it. This is what we use for sick rabbits at our rescue. You may need to syringe feed her this if she isnt eating and wont eat this.

And consider keeping your rabbit indoors! There are lots of benefits to having a houserabbit, and we see a lot of injured rabbits come in from encounters with wildlife in their outdoor hutches.

Exo Terra Primate Skull Terrarium D https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0074AQVU2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_D-Ecvb123SXAD
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0074AQVU2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_D-Ecvb123SXAD

I got it at a reptile expo. You can find them online on amazon pretty cheap! https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Primate-Skull-Terrarium/dp/B0074AQVU2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525215887&sr=8-1&keywords=terrarium+skull

Two weeks is a little long, I personally wouldn't want any of my beardies going without UVB for more than a week.
He should be okay but I'd try and take him outside in a large tub so he can get UVB, preferably 70+ in temps.

https://www.amazon.com/Reptile-T5HO-Standard-Fixture-Reflector/dp/B01B209YQC/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1523586973&sr=1-5&keywords=t5+ho+fixture
^ 34" T5 HO Fixture

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-26062-Reptisun-Fluorescent/dp/B00AQU8HKO/ref=pd_bxgy_199_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00AQU8HKO&pd_rd_r=ZNH52XHETCP3Y7K5FGA2&pd_rd_w=GIi1G&pd_rd_wg=oAEwd&psc=1&refRID=ZNH52XHETCP3Y7K5FGA2&dpID=31QDwNV8eSL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail
^ 34" T5 HO 10.0
This should be cheaper, fixture wise. I use this brand of fixture for almost all my reptiles but in the 46" version since I prefer the UVB to go the entire length of my 75 gallons for the beardies. Do know that you will need to replace the UVB bulb every 6-12 months.

Also know that if your dragon is below a year or two old your most likely going to be spending 47 dollars every three weeks or every month for around 2,000 large crickets, of course this is just an estimate as if you go with medium or small depending on the size of your beardie it may be less. And of course if you decide to feed a different staple feeder like roaches, black soldier fly larvae, locusts, grasshoppers or silkworms.


Assuming you mean the bulb rather than a heat lamp fixture. Its basically a ceramic heat emitter, its made out of ceramic and produces only heat and no light which is very good for reptiles, especially reptiles like beardies who see in color. Most people buy those miss-titled "infrared" heat lamps thinking their dragon can't see it but they actually can which often keeps them from getting a full rest and can lead to future problems.

Its only a necessity if your temps in the enclosure drop below 65 during the night.

My bad! I misunderstood!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AR3NU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That bulb comes in a range of wattages. Most people seem to do fine with with normal spot lights, or halogens. I'm switching to halogen with my next replacement.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQU8HKO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B209YQC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bulb and fixture i'm using. Given that 40 gallons is a bit small for an adult, this will probably do fine until you get his adult setup.

here's a UK link. :)

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Hi, thanks for watching out for us! He's got these lights as well as living in this [cage] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0027J0VZ6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1419894029&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40). I'll try to get pics for y'all! Anything else we need for this guy? Thanks!

Edit: I'll let you know the light strength when my gf gets home.

My geckos love those exo terra plants like this and they come in a variety of different types. They're pretty cheap too.

Mine absolutely love exo terra caves and two of them refuse to use anything but them.

I have the following ones wishlisted (for clarity's sake, I haven't actually tried any of them yet, so I don't actually know from personal experience if they're any good).

Exo Terra Night-Glo Moonlight A19 Lamp, 75-Watt
http://amzn.com/B000633URQ

Exo Terra Heat-Glo Infrared Spot Lamp, 75-Watt/120-Volt
http://amzn.com/B0002AR3QC

Exo Terra Repti-Glo 2.0 Compact Fluorescent Full Spectrum Terrarium Lamp, 26-Watt
http://amzn.com/B00101IC7G

And I'm looking to put them in a set of these:

Exo Terra Mirror Dome Light, 7-Inch
http://amzn.com/B0041OU75O

If these are the ones you had bad results with, well, I'd love to hear about it so I can look for something else!

I still can't figure out exactly what kind of turtle he is.

Here's my recommendations. Please keep in mind that this is based on 1) Never owning a turtle of this type 2) Assumptions that it is some kind of common musk turtle, and 3) Limited research. Do a lot of your own reading over the next few days and see if you come to the same conclusions regarding diet and habitat. Hopefully this will give you a place to start though. All prices in USD.

Tank - 40 gallon breeder. You could probably get away with a 20 gallon long, as they are a pretty small species. I like to give my critters pleanty of room to move around though. A breeder tank has more floor space (36" x 18" x 17") than a 40 gallon long, since they don't need a very deep habitat. You can usually get tanks like this for 1$ per gallon, so $40 here. Local aquarium store

I personally like Flourite for a substrate, it looks natural and turtles tend not to try to eat it for whatever reason. 1-2 bags of this at ~$15 a bag, lets call it $30. Make sure you rinse this stuff really good first! https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-Fluorite-Red-Clay-Gravel/dp/B00GJX0E08 <-- should be the stuff, I got mine from a local aquarium store though.

Canister filter rated for around 35-40 gallons. I'm forgoing my earlier rule of a filter at least 2x the size of the tank for two reasons. One, from what I'm reading, they don't like strong currents. Two, you only want about 6" of water. I'm not sure if this is a good call, but it's what I would go with. Fluval 206 might work here, but it might also be too strong. You can play with the output though (place it below rocks or something) to dampen the flow. ~$100 https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A207-206-External-Filter/dp/B005QRDDM4

36" T5 Terrarium Hood + T5 UVB 10.0 bulb - $50 for the hood, $25 for the light, change every 6 months. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQU8FR4/ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQU8HKO

Ceramic Heat Emitter + CHE Dome - $20 for the CHE, $15 for the Dome. https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Ceramic-Infrared-Emitter/dp/B001F9CV7K/ https://www.amazon.com/Flukers-Sun-Dome-Reptile-Lamp/dp/B001OS0SB8

Air pump - Optional, $30 or so plus some air line/air stone. https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-30-60-Gallon-Aquariums/dp/B00IZLRK36

$300 total for brand new equipment, not shopping around or anything. If you pick up some of this used you can probably do better.

I would make about a quarter of it to one side a few inches out of the water for him to rest and bask, place the heat lamp over this area. You can use larger rocks to pile up here to get it out of the water. Basking area should be 85-90 F. Gradually slope this down into the rest of the aquarium. Give him about 6" of water off the bottom of the substrate to swim in and decorate this however you see fit.

http://www.insectivore.co.uk/pdf/common_musk_turtle_caresheet.pdf

Feeding should be pretty much what I said before. As /u/Ra_Cha_Cha said, they love movement. I had a box turtle too, and while she got used to the usual greens and pellets, nothing got her quite as excited as seeing a wiggling worm.

Is it this one ?

Exo Terra Digital Hygrometer with Probe https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00101KWYW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FwFjDbVBZ5GB5

Or

Fluker's Digital Thermometer/Hygrometer for Reptiles https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0009YJWW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pxFjDbA112XSH

I use this terrarium once they're larger but I invested because I raise mantids as pets quite often.

For a twig, I use this

And for foliage I use this with the suction cup plonked near the top and the leaves hanging down that I found in the reptile section.

The fish and reptile sections at your local pet store are going to be your favorite aisles from now on.

For substrate a lot of people here prefer dirt (NEVER from outside, there are all kinds of parasites and mites in outside dirt!) But I prefer coconut fiber as my substrate because it's naturally antibiotic and will hinder fungal and bacterial growth, and smell nicer too.

You'll really come to love these little guys, and here's why. Mantids, unlike most "bugs" hunt via sight, not vibration. This means they move and act much more mammalian than other insects. They don't skitter, they don't make sudden scary movements or bite or attack on sight (well some do, they all have their own distinct personalities), and they're VERY smart.

Mantids have been known to be receptive to operant conditioning, AKA they can be trained like a dog would. You should try to handle them (gently and with clean hands) as they grow up, every couple of days, and by the time they're adults they'll readily calmly hang out with you whenever you want. You can plop them on your arm as you do computer stuff or whatever. They're very docile creatures most of the time and make great pets. Just be careful because they're fragile.

As others said, keep humidity around 50% and if they're Tenodera Sinesis then temperature should hover around 70F at night and 80F during the day, which means you'll want a dome reptile lamp and you'll need to figure our the appropriate distance from the top of the cage to place it. Don't place it right on top, the mantids love to hang out on top upside down and a lamp right there would fry them. Make sure there's at least 1 cool spot for them to cool off.

As for food and water, once they're a little bigger the crickets at the pet store should work fine. If they're super picky there are lots of online mantis stores that sell larger flies. and whet a sponge or paper towel in there to help with the humidity.

Sorry for the late reply

Exo Terra Glass Terrarium, 36 by 18 by 18-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001B5ATYK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KzntDb50RNJR9

Oh, he's the one that's been bombarding me for years with all of the reptile facts and care information on the planet. Even knows the best local reputable breeders. The terrarium I picked out is an ExoTerra 20 gallon and the branches I put on the list are a formable sort of branch that you can position. I read that they don't need a heated rock (I had an iguana when I was young that did require this) but that you can use bulbs in a reflector light fixture at one end/side.

Having the right temperature will hopefully trigger his appetite.

I also saw some stuff on Amazon that was supposed to be an appetite trigger. Its not suppose to provide nutrition, just some energy and to stimulate their own appetite to eat. So read into the reviews that some of those people don't know what they are talking about. I personally don't have experience with the product but was on the brink of purchasing some...and then our little guy lost his battle. :-(

here is the link:
http://www.amazon.com/Zilla-11864-Jump-Start-Supplement-4-Ounce-Bottle/dp/B000QFOIDE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398118665&sr=8-1&keywords=reptile+appetite

I suggest throwing away the (real) plants you have in the tank, scrubbing her shell with an old toothbrush and dish soap, and cleaning the entire tank. The water is really dirty from what I see in the picture. It isn't that complicated, just scoop out the water and rinse the gravel in the sink. Also, it might help if you got a bigger basking spot too. Definitely make sure that your turtle is getting both heat and UVB. This is what I have: http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Aquatic-Turtle-Lighting/dp/B00CYDEARU?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

I bought 1000 superworms off of Amazon and they will last 6 months to a year. Only $22

Worms on Amazon

My Syrian hamster has been very happy in this cage for the entire first year of his life so far. After a few days of exploratory climbing he has not once chewed on his bars or ever acted stressed because he wants out of his home.

30.5 x 8.5 x 18.5 inches:
http://www.amazon.com/Kaytee-Habitat-Multi-Level-Exotics-18-Inch/dp/B00CETSHN2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Excersize:
I recommend purchasing a Wodent Wheel 11inch http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006JD8I2Y/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687462&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B005Y41UPQ&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1JBB5ENE1BEBPRFYR6JR

and Flying Saucer 12 inches : http://www.amazon.com/Ware-Flying-Saucer-Exercise-4-Inch/dp/B001AT62H0/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1462212985&sr=1-1-fkmr1&keywords=flying+saucer+hamster+11+inch

Bathing and Natural Nail Trimming:
Also pick up some flat Reptile Rocks for underneath his water bottle so he will trim his nails naturally and a large ceramic bowl (needs to be deep not so much wide) filled with Repti Sand Desert White (No Calcium) http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiSand%C2%AE-Pounds-Desert/dp/B0002DIZKC/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1462213181&sr=1-1&keywords=desert+white+repti+sand

My hamster is a fan of these Apple Orchard sticks for teeth filing though his lab blocks are semi hard and also good for dental health trimming.
http://www.amazon.com/SuperPet-Apple-Orchard-Sticks-Pieces/dp/B001CCXMP0/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1462213890&sr=1-2&keywords=apple+wood+sticks

After you get those things pick up this item as a natural grass burrow for him to sleep in and clean his cage once every week. Plastic burrow are just awful for air circulation, and my hamster never liked them at all when i didnt know any better.

http://www.amazon.com/Ware-Nature-Willow-Grass-Small/dp/B001ATBMCU?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00

For food I feed my hamster Higgins Sunburst and Kaytee Forti Diet Lab blocks everyday with fresh fruit and veggies every two days. Remember your hamster stomach is the size of your pinky finger nail so portion small. He loves 3-4 lab blocks a day with a small spoonful of nuts, seeds and fruit from the Higgins. Remember though 3 Sunflower Seeds max a day or they will get fat and unhealthy.

http://www.amazon.com/Higgins-Sunburst-Gourmet-Hamsters-Gerbils/dp/B009GHII5W/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1462213536&sr=1-1&keywords=higgins+sunburst

Looks like this but for Hamster not rat and mice:
http://www.amazon.com/Kaytee-Forti-Health-Mouse-5-Pound/dp/B001VJ56Z8/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1462213507&sr=1-1&keywords=kaytee+forti+hamster

For bedding you want UNSCENTED (it messes with their respiratory system if its scented) this Kaytee Clean and Cozy is what I use. Absorbs liquid good and keeps the smell down if its close to cleaning day.

http://www.amazon.com/Kaytee-Clean-Cozy-Small-Bedding/dp/B015MJB8PO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462214215&sr=1-2&keywords=kaytee+bedding

and last but not least. Buy TWO water bottles in case one of them jams overnight you DO NOT want your hamster to suffer from dehydration. They do not need much water, but when they need it, they need it fast or will get sick quick. The kaytee water bottles have issues with the spout pointing straight so buyer beware. They often dont align properly into the cage bars. But they do work and dont leak for me. Stick with GLASS water bottles, it just tastes better honestly. 6 ounces if you will change the water daily. 12 ounces if you are not as attentive.

http://www.amazon.com/Kaytee-SSR61982-Animal-Bottle-12-Ounce/dp/B007TUNWM2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1462214981&sr=8-4&keywords=kaytee+water+bottle

It seems like a lot of money at first and it is but this hamster will be your new furry friend and relies on only you to care for it, so give it the best and longest life possible. You will have one happy hamster if you get all that and will never need to upgrade anything when your Syrian grows bigger.

You don't really need a block. Most people use the calcium powder (Also look into versions without vitamin D3, buy both with and without) that you can find at nearly any store. Pet stores certainly will have it, but WalMart near my house has it as well, even though the reptile/fish selection is limited to one half an aisle. Also put some of the calcium without D3 in a little dish (I use a milk jug lid) and they'll take part if they feel like they need more calcium.

Calcium Without D3:

Add-On Item (Cheaper)

Non Add-On Item

Calcium With D3:

Add-On Item (Cheaper but a lot smaller)



Non Add-On Item

Also look into a separate vitamin.

This will give you the options necessary for size and with/without D3.

Hamsters, like chinchillas, roll around in sand to clean their fur! You can't bathe a hamster in water (unless something very bad happens, like them getting into something dangerous/toxic/very sticky and even then, it should be spot cleaned via water instead of a full bath)Although Chinchillas actually generally use dust, dust can be dangerous for a hamster's respiratory system, so it's better to use just plain sand.

You can really use any sort of sand, although I recommend Repti-sand or any sort of sand you can find at a pet store for reptiles. You could also just get sand from outside if you wanted to, but you'd have to put it on a tray and bake it to make sure no bugs or anything are in it when your hamster gets it.

As for where to put it, you can pretty much put it in anything the hamster can get in. A shallow bowl would be fine, but I'd definitely recommend some sort of container for easier cleaning. You can also either leave it in there permanently (in which case, you may have to clean it every now and again because some hamsters like using sand for their bathroom instead of the bedding), or put it in there for a day or so at a time.

Here's a list of everything I bought to set up, excluding decoration (you can go as expensive or as cheap as you would like in that department):

20 gallon tank - $32.99

Top for the tank $25.28

Heat Mat - $17.46

Dimmer for the Heat Mat (to control temperature) - $12.75

Tile - $0.88/each x 10 = $8.80

Calcium with D3 (for dusting food) - $8.69

Calcium without D3 - $5.41

Digital Thermometer - $6.99

Hygrometer (to measure humidity) - $6.99

And, of course, the gecko - ~$30.00


Total: $155.36

Then, you'll still need to buy or make hides and buy crickets/kricket keeper/food for the crickets and/or mealworms/food for the mealworms.


Disclaimer: I may be forgetting something, I'm not at home right now.

I have two semi aquatic eastern painted turtles who reside in NE Ohio as well! But I like turts of all walks of life so that’s why I’m here hehehe. I also bring potentially helpful information! The light clamps can be rather finicky and it can be difficult to get the light pointed directly down using them. Luckily, ExoTerra sells a great light bracket that can be used with most any light! And allows for you too adjust the height! You can just tie the cord in a knot around the top bar if you don’t have the hanging hook on your lamp, I can send a picture of mine if you have any trouble! They are designed for attaching to a aquariums but could probably attach to the side of his box, and if not, it’s nothing a drill bit and some wood screws couldn’t fix! Good luck! 😃

Exo Terra Gecko Cave https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008YDHDSC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This is the hide I mentioned in my previous comment, and I love it. It's heavy and doesn't feel cheap at all, and is very smooth inside.

I own two leos and ones blind so I've learned quite a bit. Plus mine are both in diy 3×2×2 cage but i didnt need to make them so tall lol. I suggest buying this for the moist hide ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008YDHDSC/?coliid=I9JSZC9ASFTA2&colid=2MBRCC0QH2E8J&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it ) as well as a bag of sphagnum moss and another hide like the one you already have as soon as possible and you should be good until you add plants and rocks for enrichment. Also with the calcium dish i suggest this bowl as its what i have in both my girls cages ( https://www.etsy.com/listing/559423371/stroodies-calcium-dish-for-leopard?ref=pla_similar_listing_bot-2&frs=1 ) and its cheap.

I will definitely check that site out. I my 40 gallon is an Exo Terra so it has ventillation, is this one good?
Thanks for the feedback it sounds like you have alot of fun with yours!!

How many crickets per day? You should supplement what the crickets are eating by dusting them with calcium powder when you feed them to the chameleon. This is a well reviewed calcium supplement without vitamin d3. You will want to give him calcium with vitamin D3 a couple times a month. Here is an example of that.

Calcium helps with muscle control and a deficiency could be contributing to your chameleon's prolapse.

Cresties love to climb, I saw some awesome mushroom looking vertical cage decos on amazon he'd probably love.

Edit: Couldn't find the mushroom ledges again but I found some other cool stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/Magnaturals-Small-Feeder-Ledge-Earth/dp/B00481MPTG/ref=sr_1_53?ie=UTF8&qid=1495220950&sr=8-53&keywords=reptile+cage+decorations

https://www.amazon.com/Magnaturals-Gecko-Ledge-Mojave-Magnetic/dp/B00DOZH9PM/ref=sr_1_58?ie=UTF8&qid=1495220950&sr=8-58&keywords=reptile+cage+decorations

https://www.amazon.com/Fluker-Labs-SFK51019-Branch-Habitat/dp/B0009YEB52/ref=pd_sim_199_21?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0009YEB52&pd_rd_r=312P93K3JNHVMY0WCYG9&pd_rd_w=xvi8N&pd_rd_wg=sAbVh&psc=1&refRID=312P93K3JNHVMY0WCYG9

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Naturalistic-Bolivian-Croton/dp/B0002DIUPW/ref=pd_sim_199_79?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0002DIUPW&pd_rd_r=312P93K3JNHVMY0WCYG9&pd_rd_w=xvi8N&pd_rd_wg=sAbVh&psc=1&refRID=312P93K3JNHVMY0WCYG9

This is the one I have. I bought two of them almost 5 years ago already, and they are working just fine.

http://www.amazon.com/Flukers-34134-Digital-Thermometer-Hygrometer/dp/B0009YJWW4

You can switch one light bulb from light emitting one to a ceramic heating bulb which only provides heat without any visible light. Keep in mind those get hot quite a bit so you need to have ceramic mount for it inside the lamp. Best would be to just get "lap" that's made for such purpose.

bulb

light

http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Aquatic-Tadpole-2-Ounce/dp/B002DZI1K6/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1414178564&sr=1-1&keywords=african+dwarf+frog+food Do you mean this when you refer to sinking pellets?

Embedding links: I've got this Zilla thermostat that works very well, along with this dome and I believe I've used this brand of CHE. Hope that helps get you started!

I use a 8.5" dome like this one

In finality here, I say get rid of those vines, get ones like this.

Hi again!

I thank you once again for your help with my little critter, I do want the best for him :)

I was looking into the heat-thread you forwarded to me and I was wondering if you have an opinion on these two Domes (keep in mind it's a glass enclosure)
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Exo-Terra-PT2057-Light-Fixture/dp/B0041OU75O/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1458440532&sr=1-1&keywords=light+dome
And
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Exo-Terra-PT2054-Reflector-Medium/dp/B0017JHHXQ

Or perhaps you have an even better solution?

I was thinking of using a 100W Halogen light with whichever Dome I purchase and use a dimmer to control the heat more accurately as well. :)

I ordered mine off amazon. My leos actually really like it too! I’m always refilling their little calcium dishes.

I had a baby iguana stop eating and bought some feeding supplement from petsmart, fed him that for a week or two, mixed in some vegetable flavored baby food, after a week or so he was healthy again! Good luck!

This was the supplement I started with http://www.amazon.com/Zilla-11864-Jump-Start-Supplement-4-Ounce-Bottle/dp/B000QFOIDE/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1419140601&sr=8-16&keywords=reptile+food+supplement

This is the terrarium I got http://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Glass-Terrarium-18-Inch/dp/B001B5ATYK
Left brown rock is a cool hide, top right corner is the hot hide with a heat matt buried undeneath the substrate (aspen). Two logs and some fake foliage with a water bowl on the bottom right. I'm thinking about getting a low watt heat lamp but not sure if it's necessary.

I ordered it on amazon! Here’s the link!! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0074AQVU2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QjPNDbEFYAADC

Looks like you’ve got a real nice setup there. As far as lighting goes you’ll need the normal heat and UVB bulbs. You could probably use a 50-75w bulb for heating and similarly sized UVB bulb (13w 5.0 I believe). Something like this would give you everything in one package:


https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Aquatic-Turtle-Lighting/dp/B00CYDEARU

I would recommend a 20 gal tank. A ten gallon would probably be fine while they are baby’s, but you’ll have to upgrade eventually so I would recommend just starting with the 20. If money really is no object then you may want to look into one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Glass-Terrarium-18-Inch/dp/B000I1QYLK or https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Glass-Terrarium-18-Inch/dp/B000OAYXTK?th=1&psc=1
This will give you more options for decorations, easier access to your frogs, an area designed for the water absorbing part of your substrate, and a tank that’ll be big enough for them as adults. If done right, all you’ll have to do is drain the water occasionally. I highly recommend watching https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCUlxEsBwkrS02wkRMVheyyQ this guys channel. He’s a bit dry, but will give you all the info you need for setting up a tank for the first time. Hope it helps and enjoy your darts = D

ok thank you :-) and
im using these

Zoo Med Reptile Shelter 3 in 1 Cave, Medium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BNZTAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_So4MAbV02AC1G

Exo Terra Gecko Cave for Reptiles, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008YDHDSC?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

im using these 2 hides for my humid hides the dark rock seems like it will hold it fine but im not sure about the lighter rock haha it has a sorta deep base

I've never heard of this comparison between chameleons and cresteds, but I guess I'm not that familiar with chameleon temps/humidities. For a crested gecko, their ideal temperature is right around 75, and as far as humidity goes, you want to mist them in the evening to about 90% humidity and then it let it drop to the 50s. 18x18x24 is a perfect size for an adult crested gecko. This is the one I recommend, but you can probably shop around a little bit to find a slightly better price: http://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Glass-Terrarium-24-Inch/dp/B000OAYXTK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453260720&sr=8-1&keywords=exo+terra+18x18x24 . Live plants I'm not familiar with, so I hope someone else here can you help with that. I highly recommend getting cork bark, I keep a flat and a round in each of my terrariums (http://imgur.com/tduiDxb this is how all of my terrariums are set up right now, Luci, the very grumpy gecko toward the bottom right, is sitting on the round), but I find the round is their favorite, they like using it to get all of their shed off, the big flat they more or less just use for climbing higher when they don't want to just walk on the glass. Food wise, you want to use pangea food. Some people prefer repashy, that's fine too, but I personally found when I switched my geckos from repashy to pangea, they ate 1000x better and looked 1000x healthier (they weren't unhealthy, they just seemed to take better to the pangea). http://www.pangeareptile.com/store/pangea-fruit-mix-banana-apricot-complete-gecko-diet.html This is my geckos' favorite one, but they also eat the watermelon/mango, and my youngest one also loves the insect one, but I couldn't get it to take with the geckos who just won't eat insects anymore. When they're babies, that's the best time to make sure you're supplementing with insects, that protein will help them grow.
What you put in the bottom of the terrarium is probably going to be dependent on live plants, so I'll leave that to the live plant experts on this thread.

No prob! Stay away from the Zoo Med Habba Hut XL. Just got one in the mail and neither of my BD can fit inside the arch because it's only 2" of clearance. Garbage.

Have you tried this before?

https://www.amazon.com/Zilla-Supplies-Jump-Start-Appetite-Stimulant/dp/B000QFOIDE/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3CNIC5W0VQ4S1&keywords=reptile+appetite+stimulant&qid=1572105310&sprefix=reptile+appeti%2Caps%2C169&sr=8-4

It's basically a pure sugar paste, very high in calories. Definitely follow any vet advice (the calorie replacement doesn't have much in the way of nutritional value, like the carnivore care), but it could be something to give him/her a little extra energy. The only issue is if they're very weak, the paste can be kind of hard to swallow. It's good to give them some warm water via syringe to help it go down, and give them a tiny little bit at a time.

I've been in the turtle game for about a year now, recently I've upgraded my 55 gallon canister filter to 150 gallon one called Sunsun HW-304B and wow has it been an improvement. Turtles need 3x the filter so if you have 55 gallon tank you're going to need one rated for 150-200 gallons which canister filters are preferred since they can last a long time without cleaning and provide better suction.

If you do go the canister filter route I would get this media kit that has everything you need to started.

As far as chemicals go I would stick with TetraFauna Aquasafe and API Sludge Destroyer, use only a little bit since that will make your water cloudy if you use too much.

To pick up food waste and whatever else get this long pole fishnet instead of those short ones that they sell at pet stores so you can get in there really deep without shoving your arm in.

Turtles also need 2 types of light UVB and heat, I found that this combo lamp works fine.

He's a veiled. Male. Here are some pictures of him and his set up.
Diggit 1
Diggit 2
Diggit 3
Diggit 4
About 2 weeks ago
Setup

His cage is a Reptibreeze
(http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiBreeze-Screen-36-Inches/dp/B0027J0VZ6/ref=pd_sim_petsupplies_8)

Have been feeding him crickets from the local PetSmart
I'm aware that his lighting is with a Reptisun bulb, unsure of wattage.
Live in an apartment in Maryland so actual sunlight isn't the easiest to provide as a college student and part time employee. He has been outside before and seemed to enjoy it.
We have used Reptivite to dust his crickets before, just haven't recently. The vet just called saying that they haven't been able to get blood work or fecal samples yet, as he's somewhat dehydrated. But so far he has low bone density.

At this point, I need to do everything that I can to provide the best for him. Any ideas on what to do? Also to ensure that our other one, whom we purchased this past weekend, won't end up like this.

Thank you so much. This has all been so helpful.

You know, I've taken the bulb from a fixture and put it in another fixture in the exact location and gotten temps as much as 30F higher. The small domes that are white on the inside seem to give out the least heat. This beauty gives out a lot of heat. It also depends on the room temperature - I have to adjust bulbs when the seasons change because my basking spots will rise or drop a significant amount. My indoor temps rarely go below 80 (my lizards' tanks heat my apartment!) and even in the winter, I only have to use a 75 watt bulb at most (in 40 gallon and bigger tanks). It's just a trial and error thing. If you can't leave the dome fixture on top of the lid safely, then investing in an adjustable lamp stand is probably the way to go. Grabbing a rheostat/dimmer does make it easier to adjust temps.

The height of your basking spot should be ~8 inches from the UVB bulb, so that your beardie can get to about 6 inches of the bulb. Then you figure out how to get the temps in the basking spot to where they should be by lowering/raising the basking fixture or changing bulbs or whatever.

In case you aren't aware, pine and cedar are both toxic to beardies, and one of our member's beardies recently had an issue that appears to have been due to super glue being used on a basking platform. Make sure your materials are reptile friendly. :)

With aboreal species, impaction really isn't a risk. Your focus is more on keeping the humidity in the enclosure up constantly, which is where the coco fiber and similar mixes come into play. Eco soil mixed with sphagnum moss would be another viable option. Orchid bark mixture (wood chips/moss/soil/etc mixture) would be a third. With orchid bark mix, you'd have to find one that doesn't contain any additives and plant food. For example you would not want to just grab a bag of Miracle Gro orchid mix off the shelf at Walmart.

In regards to treats. I wouldn't do absolutely anything until he is routinely eating the Pangea. With food already switching, he needs to view the one new thing as food for a while. Once he's consistently eating the food that he needs to be eating, then you might worry about a rare treat. It would honestly be better to just get some different flavors of pangea to rotate through rather than go through the trouble of blending bugs and fruit and pollen. With how picky he already is, it's unlikely he'll even touch it. He'll settle into one flavor of Pangea and that will probably be that.

Another thing you can do to maximize the enclosure space in his current and future cage is to add some climbing vines (again, secure with twist ties, some also come with suction cups) and perhaps a piece of hollow driftwood (somewhat poor example, but something like this). Both can typically be found at a reptile supply store. The latter you might have more luck with at an aquarium store.

Make sure that the new cage is well ventilated. In addition, no need for UVA or UVB lights, or heat. They're a nocturnal species and room temps are typically sufficient.

So I'm a first-time grower, ambient temperatures are currently in the 50s, and what I'm (about to be) doing is somewhat unconventional. I'm offering it as an idea but I'm also hoping to get some critical input. Right now I've got grain jars (destined for a monotub) colonizing on my dresser, using a 1500W space heater to keep my entire room around 80F when I'm home. This isn't my long-term plan, though.

I was considering a heat pad, controlled by a thermostat, but I was concerned about overheating the bottom of the substrate. For all I know, these fears may be completely unfounded, so shroomers feel free to call me an idiot. Anyway, here's what I'm doing instead. (Same idea for heating both my spawn jars and my mono.)

I purchased the following:

• Zoo Med Reptile Lamp Stand, Full Size
  
• Fluker's Sun Dome Reptile Lamp - Large Deep Dome Fixture
  
• BYB - 150W 110V Ceramic Infrared Heat Emitter
  
• Zilla Reptile Terrarium Heat & Habitat Lighting Temp. Controller, 500W
  
  The idea is to have a 150W ceramic heat emitter suspended above the tub (or tray of jars). Direct radiant heat is apparently not good for our friends, and I don't know how well a transparent polypropylene lid will absorb the IR, so I'll toss some cotton garments on top of the lid to absorb the heat and conduct it gently into the tub. The thermostat's sensor will be embedded in the substrate, and I'll use temperature strips placed at various points to "calibrate" it.
  
  Given that this will be in a confined closet and the heat will be focused on my grow, I'm hopeful that 150W will be enough, at least to reach a decent fruiting temperature. And I figure this solution will be gentle on the little guys, won't dry the air, and won't pose a fire hazard. But I haven't heard much about people going this route, which leads me to wonder if there's a flaw I've failed to consider...
  
  Edit: MY IDEA SUCKS. In the close confines of my closet, the 150W bulb didn't take long to start melting the lid of my tub. I went and bought a $40 radiator at Home Depot like a normal human being.

http://www.Amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001B5ATYK?cache=60f3fe958af9820a70de7aea3937d0fb&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1406173657&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1. There you go, it's nice but a bit pricey, git it in sale at petsmart $150

I've heard of pros and cons for every kind of bedding under the sun, but half logs ALWAYS invite potential for a snake to feel stressed out and not completely 'safe', and EVERY bp tank should have a hide on both the cool side and the warm side, so the snake can scoot over to wherever they need to go as their temp needs change. Every bp tanks should also have at least one hygrometer. Fluker's is very reliable and has humidity and temp: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009YJWW4/ It's currently under $10.

Obviously these are issues you inherited and are doing your best to deal with. I agree that if the snake came in dehydrated, even perfect temps would not help the first shed at your place go right. I suggest your priorities moving forward to be getting that hygrometer and two single-opening hides. Once you have the hygrometer going, you can tell if you need to get a humidity solution going.

Please know that as someone who has had a beeper for about two years now, I really appreciate that you are doing your best for this noodle and improving his life.

I don't know what kind of cage you have her in, but I ordered one of these dome lamps to sit on the top of the cage with a 100-150 watt bulb and have it hooked up to a temp controller. It works pretty well for what I have set up. I have it set on one side of the cage so he can adjust when he feels like it.

I have a few of these on our tank:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007D1BUJY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have 3 in my tank with a betta and a few ottos, and I feed them this.

I just drop the pellets in. As soon as they hit the sand, all of them come out and munch on them. Betta usually goes to investigate the food and ends up being chased away.