Best sanding pads according to redditors

Get some Scotch-Brite Pads (Not necessarily that really big box). I use them to remove discoloration from ejector pins that I surface grind that can be near 70 HRC.

Just get to rubbing, add some oil and you can polish pretty nicely with the stuff. Even better, if the stuff is round, stick it in a lathe and power rub

Things happen, so light scratches are normal. Some folks like it "gives character, tells a story" and some think of polishing, no right answer. I've used these Polishing pads from Amazon with some success for light marks. I only use the last two finest grades.

​

I use CA finishes a lot on smaller turned items, but I hate wearing gloves. As a consequence I have new fingerprints all the time.

If you want to take that to the next level, wet sand with micromesh up to 12,000 grit then hit it with some HUT Ultra Gloss plastic polish

Ya know, if you really wanna take off sprue marks, that's not that hard. I recommend these micromesh pads. Start with the roughest pad, work until you cant feel the sprue (being careful not to take off any additional material.) Then work your way through the pads from coarse to the finest. The grit on the fine grit pads is so fine it will essentially polish as you go. They're handy to have for anything plastic-y.

​

If you want to be more frugal, a carefully used fingernail file, along with some polish after could work fine too. That's how I did warhammer minis for a while, although I benefitted from applying paint after the sanding.

Yes, there were a few parts that just took way too much sanding to get to size. I updated those parts to reduce the amount necessary and will be paying close attention to feedback from those building it to see if there are any parts I missed.

There were other surprises too, but none that required design changes (that I recall). One was that I initially was using a flat black paint for automotive that I got from the auto parts chains that I had a lot of trouble with. At first I thought it was environmental or my skill, but I eventually tried a flat black Krylon from a hardware store that worked beautifully.

I used Bondo spot filler putty to fill gaps, a filler primer to fill in layer lines that were left after sanding, many different grit levels of sand paper (mostly 120, 320, 400, and 1500 -- the last two used with wet sanding), and matte and gloss clear coats. I really liked the sanding sponges I used for wet sanding https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ELH7AI/

Contact Adhesive - super glue.

basically, you get super thin CA. Use a folded piece of paper towel below the pen and dribble CA over the top (make sure you lay something over the lathe base to protect it). After you have applied the coat spray a very light activator (aerosol that causes the CA to instantly harden). I do about 10 coats of this.

Next, use ~200 grit sandpaper and sand it until it is flat (you will see "clear" marks in the sanding if there are troughs, this means you need to keep going). Next take whatever sand series you use (I use these) and sand the coat until it is crystal clear.

What you'll end up with is a crystal clear coat that shines, and is extremely durable.

I don't use the same topcoat you used so I can't say how many coats is enough. Because of issues with odors, I only use water-based products like polycrylic. I use seven to eight brushed on coats. But I've been doing this for more than a decade so I know how to rub it out and I know the things I can be tempted to do while sanding that's going to make big trouble for me. I would do the rubout and go as high as you can (1200). If you aren't satisfied with that, then buy the higher grit abrasives. Abralon used to sell a mixed package of one each 360, 500, 1000, 2000 and 4000. Here it is on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Mirka-Abralon-Assorted-Silicon-Polishing/dp/B014Q3EAXO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1492993178&sr=8-2&keywords=abralon . You could hand sand with these. Please note that this is what I do on the product I make; it is what works for me. I am not saying it is the way everyone should do things or that these are the products they should use.

I could be wrong but there is a product they sell that has a compound in the scrubber that when you wet it and scrub it comes out and works on the item your scrubbing. I used some stainless steel scrubbers i bought. there didnt seem to be anything in them, and they didnt seem to do anything to my pans at all. they were little balls of silver stainless steel. I searched for scotch brite aluminum oxide. this is what i found: https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Brite-Production-Aluminum-Length-Maroon/dp/B00EW7MCCQ

this is what i used: https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Brite-Stainless-Steel-Scouring-Scotch/dp/B00MNPDYHQ/ref=sr_1_11?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1501072309&sr=1-11&keywords=stainless%2Bsteel%2Bscrubber&th=1

You'll want to get a full set. Here's a link to the Micro-Mesh 3 x 4 Soft Touch Pads that I use. Wet each pad and go over the stems one pad at a time from coarse to fine. I like to finish with obsidian oil as a protectant.

I've seen polished to a mirror using super fine sandpaper

Here's the set I bought

Mirka Abralon 8A-241 Assorted Silicon Carbide Sanding/Polishing Pads, 5-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014Q3EAXO/

This is the answer. Worth every penny. These are soft pads that conform to the shape of the tubing and leave an even finish.

5 Pack Veriety 500-4000 Grits Here

Would this 3K-5K SiC sandpaper work for the CC4 and this 7K to 15K SiC sandpaper work for a Spyderco ceramic or maybe 2?

I use Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Mirka-Abralon-Assorted-Silicon-Polishing/dp/B014Q3PKSI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1492278736&sr=8-2&keywords=bowling+ball+sanding+pads