Leather is essentially dead skin. Like skin, it needs to be kept somewhat moist to prevent becoming brittle and cracking, but unlike living skin, it no longer receives nourishment, hence the whole point of doing this.

Keep in mind, "Less is more". Always aim for enough to cover the leather, but not enough to saturate it. Your boots will darken slightly, just like anything that acquires moisture.

If you don't follow any routine? Boots may last you a few years, maybe more, maybe less.
If you do follow a routine. Boots may last a few decades, maybe more, maybe less. They may outlast you!

• Brush: https://www.amazon.com/Kiwi-100-Horsehair-Shine-Brush/dp/B0010TR6NE
  
  
  
• Applicator Brush: https://www.amazon.com/Kiwi-Horsehair-Polish-Applicator-191-100/dp/B001ECZOKY
  
  
  
• Leather Cleaner (Haven't used this yet, but I've heard its fantastic. I've been using kiwi saddle soap). https://www.amazon.com/Leather-Cleaner-Honey-Accessories-Concentrated/dp/B00HU6N3LK
  
  
  *Leather Conditioner: https://www.amazon.com/Kiwi-Conditioning-Oil-2-5-74g/dp/B00N9CHI2O
  
  
  You can find everything you need at most department stores, but this should give you an idea of what the tools look like.

1. [Buy these, wait for package to arrive] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HM9W4Q4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
   
   
2. Put them on a pair of shoes
   
   
3. Go to literally any show
   
   
4. Make friends with some of the many people who will approach you to tell you how much they love your dope shoelaces
   
   This process has worked flawlessly countless times for me and multiple friends for whom I have bought these shoe-borne beacons as a gift. If you can't make friends with those babies on, you might be skipping deodorant or something because they're basically friend magnets.
   
   As far as where to find events, depends on your city. Look up EDMTrain.

Oh man, I love when people ask stuff like this on Reddit. I bootblack, and have worked on countless leather boots! Frye boots are lovely.

First off, what kind finish do your Melissa Buttons have, or did they have when you got them? For instance, looking at the current line, Antiqued/Polished can take polish, Rugged should not be polished, and Suede will have an entirely different cleaning/care routine from the other two. I'll assume it's closer to the first two for the following.

For any leather that's not suede or nubuck, the first step is cleaning. You can pick up some saddle soap (Kiwi exists in your local drug store or grocery store and is totally fine) or use just about any mild soap - I regularly use diluted Dr. Bronners. You want to create a lather and scrub that into the leather, and then wipe the boot down with a damp, not wet, rag. Be sure to get all the suds off the boot, but don't soak it either. If it's really dirty, feel free to repeat this step!

Then, I would choose a conditioner. I'd actually stay away from an animal-based oil like neatsfoot oil or mink oil, as well as less-stable oils like olive oil, since those could go rancid with too much humidity. I'm a big fan of Obenauf's, which gives good deep conditioning with just a bit of product (seriously, a little goes a long way) and has a pretty neutral scent. Frye actually sells a conditioning cream of their own, which I imagine would also be fine. Pretty much anything with a beeswax base is also good. Apply with your fingers so you can really rub it into the leather - the heat from your hands will help work it in.

Finally, if your boot is the sort that would look better with some shine, I would wait a day or two to let the conditioner soak in and then apply a bit of cream polish - this will give your boots some shine, but it won't be like, patent-leather mirror shiny, which I feel would be the wrong style for Frye boots. Kiwi also sells these, but Meltonian is my go-to. With cream polish, you apply a light coat and then buff the boot with a shoe brush in light, fast strokes. You can use your fingers to apply the polish, but it'll dye your fingertips, so either wear gloves or use a rag or a polish brush. Buff the boot until it's shiny to your liking!

Don't worry too much, it's pretty hard to ruin a good pair of boots while taking care of them. They'll definitely be happier with a bit of TLC!

So our cleaning lady accidentally put my rep Chanel espadrilles in the donation bin a few months ago and last week I received a replacement from the same seller (AliExpress guy I added on whatsapp). They were the same size (37) but fit tighter and a tad shorter than my old ones :cries: so I went to Amazon to get a 4 way shoe tree to stretch them and came across this spray. OMG it was like a miracle! I sprayed in and out, put in the trees and left overnight. This morning they were perfect! Even loose enough to wear with thin no-show socks.

I know breaking in shoes can literally be a pain so I figured sharing this might help someone. Have a great day ladies!

I'm old, and I cling firmly to the age-old adage of "Never go cheap on anything that rests between you and the earth." That includes shoes, tires and mattresses.



If you buy "Bean Boots" get the flannel/chamois lined ones at a minimum. Saving $20 for the unlined ones is a bad move.
The Thinsulate-lined ones and shearling (fur) lined ones are almost too warm for Virginia, but if you are unaccustomed to cold weather, it might not be a terrible purchase.

DO buy 3 pair of tall, thick boot socks to go with your new pair of boots, and make sure you try the boots on with the socks.

Personally, I don't care for duck boots. (any boot with the leather upper attached to a rubber bottom)
I prefer an all-leather boot for cold-weather.

Some random products:

https://www.amazon.com/Rockport-Mens-Elkhart-Snow-Boot/dp/B00F4OAMO6

https://www.amazon.com/Timberland-Chillberg-Mid-Waterproof-Insulated/dp/B0199NCPF6

https://www.amazon.com/Vasque-Snowblime-Ultradry-Insulated-Brindle/dp/B00TYJ29XE

https://www.amazon.com/Columbia-Mens-SNOWCROSS-Snow-Black/dp/B07JH35HZQ/

I prefer dark leather, so it looks like a dress shoe at first glance.

Some key features:

1. You want to see the word(s) "Waterproof" or "Water proof".
   

• Slushy melted snow loves to sneak inside non-waterproof shoes and make you walk around with soggy socks. Wet feet get really cold really quickly.
  
• You don't have to see "Gore-Tex" for the boot to be waterproof.
  

2. You want to see a nice, chunky tread pattern on the boot. Something that can bite into packed snow and give you traction & stability.
   

• Pro-Tip: It is good manners to always stomp your boots clear just before you enter a building. Chunky treads sometimes fill with snow and carry it with you in the cleats.
  

3. You want something that at least goes up over your ankles. A 6 to 8" boot is plenty. 9-12" boots are really only intended for deep woods activities.
   
4. Resist the temptation to buy something with a zipper up the side, or velcro closure instead of big long laces. Laces are the way to go.
   
   If you apply a leather treatment to the boots at the end of every winter, before you throw them in the back of your closet, they will last 20 years or more.
   
   If you want to go old-school, and use something natural & traditional then:
   this or maybe this
   
   If you prefer to let science do the work for you then:
   
   this or maybe this could be the way to go.
   
   
   -----
   
   If money is tight, or if you are going to travel back home to Arizona after college and you'll likely never need cold-weather boots again in your life, anything $60 or so at Target or Walmart really can work just fine.
   
   Also, as I said before, good boots last a really long time. Weird as used shoes might be, Goodwill isn't as crazy an option as it might sound.
   
   -----
   
   Final comment on boot socks:
   
   Cotton and Acrylic socks are cheap and easy to find, and work adequately.
   But real wool is the warmest and toughest way to go, hands-down, and a super-soft merino wool is almost as soft as cotton.

Story ( See edit )

Not much to tell. I wanted to replenish the Strategic Shoe Tree Reserve and took a chance on an Ebay store with decent reviews.

Ebay link

Website link

Review

They seem(ed) to work well.

- Edit -

Not every dice roll pans out and ultimately I'd have to advise against these shoe trees, or any shoe tree with a narrow heel, especially for any shoe that is going to sit in the closet for a decent amount of time.

I noticed that the Ebay tree was stretching out the back of my Lazy Mocs and switched them to JAB trees. u/jso1 brought up the narrow heel on the Ebay trees and then u/YahooEmail mentioned this:

>>Woodlore Epic trees are awesome. The Jos. A. Bank trees are too narrow at the heel ... I've had to pass on several eBay purchases because the seller is stretching the hell out of the heel with their shoe trees

I found this interesting because I hadn't personally experienced this, but it turns out that I have. My response:

>>Well then. I was going to respond with "I haven't seen this to be true," but then I remembered that I have two pairs of AE-line Allen Edmonds shoes in my closet that have been treed since the start with both JAB and AE trees, and I haven't worn them in at least two years.

>>Shoe trees in

>>Shoe trees out

>>Yep. Both trees stretched the hell out of the heel. I am unsure if this issue is not being raised on my other shoes because they get worn regularly, but there is no denying that you are 100% right.

Lesson learned.

TL/DR: Spend the money on Woodlore Epic Shoe Trees instead.

Thanks to u/dsmdylan for the link: these look like a great less-expensive option to the Epic.

My favorite shoe cleaning supplies

Angelus Water and Stain Repellant, Clear


Kiwi 209-000 Suede and Nubuck Care Kit


Shacke Suede & Nubuck 4-Way Leather Brush Cleaner



E6000 230010 Craft Adhesive, 3.7 Fluid Ounces

Saphir Renomat 100ml

B&E LIFE 5 Pairs Practical Plastic Adjustable Length Men Shoe Tree Stretcher Boot Holder Organizers 5 Pairs Black

You could get shoe trees for much cheaper, from Ikea for example but I just wanted to link something.

Angelus Easy Cleaner 8 Oz.


These brushes are the absolute best if you know better brushes let me know


Angelus Sole Bright 4 Oz Salon care 40 works too



IRIS USA, Inc. CNL-5 Storage Box, 5 Quart, Clear, 20 Pack


Dr. Scholl's WORK Massaging Gel Advanced Insoles (Men's 8-14) // All-Day Shock Absorption and Cushioning for Hard Surfaces (Packaging May Vary), 1 Count

EB Kicks,


If you know of any better products please let me know I don't believe I missed anything

This video is stupid helpful for white sneakers

Get Jordan 1 Glitter outta your shoes

Kiwi Camp Dry Heavy Duty Water Repellant, 10.5 Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KZLKN78/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lcMQybE2Q7W87


This stuff should work to make them waterproof again. And could help with any other gear that isn't waterproof.

Yes, you definitely can. Lumberjacks, hunters, and other rugged outdoorsmen in the rainy Pacific Northwest (and other places like Greenland) back in the day had a great solution to this issue.

What you're looking to do is "wax" your denim. You can buy a bar of it - Otter Wax is the most popular, or you can make the all-natural wax yourself (beeswax, turpentine, and linseed oil) if you want to make a lot for cheap. Then you just brush it into your denim (or canvas, or suede, or any tough, porous material) and use a heat gun or blow dryer to melt it into the fabric. One tip from my experience is when it's melting into the fabric, use your fingers to help rub it in and it'll make a much more uniform and effective barrier.

It'll be totally waterproof and not too stiff because of the oils. Plus it'll give your fabric a badass rugged look (a few shades darker). There's lots of guides online so find your favorite recipe and give it a try!

https://www.amazon.com/Lystaii-Waterproof-Shoestring-Decoration-RGB/dp/B01HM9W4Q4

If you want a basic shoeshine kit for that price, go for the Kiwi one for $13 on Amazon (with free shipping)

http://www.amazon.com/Kiwi-Select-Shoe-Care-Kit/dp/B0010TP3AM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1451192630&sr=8-4&keywords=shoe+shine+kit

• A little more: chrome bravo - $160
  
• A lot more: mission workshop sanction - $189. Mission Workshop is the shit and their warranty is also the shit. Break the pack and they'll be like "yo how did that even happen" and then they'll give you a new one.
  
• A lot less: timbuk2 rogue backpack - $79
  
• DIY canvas: everlane snap backpack + otter wax + iron/hairdryer + manpower - $73 ish

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F768TZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NY3xDbW8MHB4X couldn’t tell if you wanted the link or not so here it is anyways.

something like this plus shoe trees

Any advice on waterproofing? I have a raincoat (sorta like this) that is losing its waterprooficity. I used some spray like this, but I think it wore off pretty quickly. I'd be interested in waxing it or something. Have any of you tried that?

oxblood, burgundy, etc. if youre really unsure about it and arent interested in the possible darkening that you might get with a polish that isnt spot on, you could go with a neutral polish. all of the shine but no worry of changing the original color.

on a related note and because you say youre just starting a polishing kit, i cannot recommend a shine box highly enough. classy way to keep your kit together so you dont need to worry about shoving it into a closet or under a sink (which makes me much less likely to shine my shoes regularly), it makes the actual shine much easier when you can just put your foot up, and i am of the opinion that the smell of polish and cedar is manly as fuck.

Try some water and hard hard scrubbing with a rag first. If that doesn't work, use a little bit of dish soap diluted in water and more scrubbing. Lexol or some other leather cleaner would be the next option. Saddle Soap would be another step up.

If saddle soap doesn't get the stains out we will have to talk about going nuclear with something like renomat. Stuff this powerful really is harmful to the overall finish of the shoes.

If you aren't in the mood to damage your shoes, go with a dark polish to darken everything to the same color as the blemish.

Whatever i wear i will always have Otter Wax with me in my go bag just for this reason! so pick any shirt you want and wax it!!!

Otter wax is the best one ive used so far. i have tested this on a few par of heans and shirts for when i go 4 wheeling. best money you can spend on keeping yourself clean.

http://www.artofmanliness.com/2014/06/03/how-to-wax-your-own-clothing-and-gear/

http://www.amazon.com/Extra-Large-Fabric-Wax-Natural-Repellent/dp/B008PJV0P2/ref=pd_sim_sg_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0RE7CNBNTR1J9Q8A77JM

I found some plain black Tom's at Ross and swapped the laces out for [these light up ones from amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HM9W4Q4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GeWaBbQWT9KWX)

I have the Brooks Brothers kit with the cedar stand that is ridiculously overpriced, but I wanted it badly anyway and bought it as a present to myself on my birthday and got it and enjoy the hell out of it. With that said, although I enjoy the kit, the little Kiwi kit you can buy in the little bag from Walmart/Target is perfectly fine and will suit your needs completely. I used that for years and liked the stuff. Kiwi still makes great polish. Since this is r/frugal I would definitely say that is the route to go. Here's a link on Amazon to what I'm talking about. It's $15 and free shipping with Prime. That's for black and brown. Can't go wrong there.

This kit has worked well for me. I just used the water protectant on my new Quoddy suede boots and they didn't alter the color at all. Comes with an eraser bar and cleaning solution as well.

Kiwi is often recommended as an intro polish kit. This was my first kit, I just received another for Christmas so I will update my comment with that when I get home later. Kiwi works just fine, Lincoln is another brand that I think gets recommended frequently. Just make sure you clean and condition before polishing.

If you can spare it, I would really recommend these shoe trees which are $7 more; I have both and the Alfani really frustrate me in putting them in and out of the shoe, and they don't feel as sturdy as these do.

Huge Fan of These

Suede brush?

Maybe something like this. Miscly Suede & Nubuck 4-Way Brush + Eraser - Premium Shoe Cleaner Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D1HU4N6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hlSLDbG3G8RMX

Songmics

Ollieroo

I waxed my NutSac....

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005MV99L8?pc_redir=1396171925&robot_redir=1

My denim has bled a bit onto my suede bucks, but it comes off with a rubber suede brush/eraser and a little elbow grease

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01D1HU4N6/

Thank you ☺️ My go to conditioner is Kiwi Conditioning Oil. It’s been the best for really getting into the pores and softening the leather.

I just ordered this Saphir Creme Universelle. I don’t know if it’ll be better than the Kiwi but I’ll give it a go.

B&E Life 5 Pairs Practical Plastic Adjustable Length Men Shoe Tree Stretcher Boot Holder Organizers (5 Pairs Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F768TZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fJqiDb6SFBQR7

These are my go-to packable mitts (recently)

https://www.backcountry.com/outdoor-research-transcendent-mitten

My liners are as follows
https://www.sitkagear.com/products/gradient-glove/waterfowl-marsh

https://www.firstlite.com/products/talus-fingerless-merino-glove

https://www.firstlite.com/products/talus-touch-glove

I just stick to full leather or canvas for my "shell" and wax the hell out of them.

Otter Wax Fabric & Canvas Wax | Regular Bar | All-Natural Water Repellent | Made in USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005MV99L8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KlVyDb29ADAX8

Happy Zambambo!

Happy birthday :D

Item.

My guess would be something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Extra-Large-Fabric-Wax-Natural-Repellent/dp/B008PJV0P2/

I'll paste what I wrote yesterday on the original deal thread...

Shoes finally came in, they fit true to size and look really nice. If they hold up for a while, I'll be ecstatic at this price point. Awesome find and thanks once again OP!

I wear a 14 in Nikes, a 13 in some other makes, and the 14 of this boot fit perfectly.

I also just bought this nice little kit to keep these boots in good shape, and plus it's a good $17 investment for a nice little kit.

http://www.amazon.com/McNett-ReviveX-Nubuck-Suede-Fabric/dp/B002HH0PL8/ref=sr_1_6?s=shoes&ie=UTF8&qid=1371572983&sr=1-6&keywords=suede+waterproofing+spray

Lmao I love that this is one of the options Amazon suggested when I searched for them: https://www.amazon.com/Lystaii-Waterproof-Shoestring-Decoration-RGB/dp/B01HM9W4Q4/ref=sr_1_45?keywords=sansi+led&qid=1564662019&s=gateway&sr=8-45

I just moved to Alaska, I'm going to mostly do a treadmill and when outside (if I can get myself out the door) I'll try wearing these and a light base layer. We'll see if I survive.

Is this the stuff? https://www.amazon.com/Kiwi-Conditioning-Oil-2-5-74g/dp/B00N9CHI2O

What is the best procedure for applying it? Thanks!

It's Houndsbay and Stratton Men's Cedar Shoe Tree. They cost less so that's why I'm asking if it's worth paying more
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NJGJ5R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6dbFDb02076XC

I bought the FootFitter 2-Way Shoe Stretcher and also this solution for stretching leather. The first pair I tested them with so far were some MizMooz leather flats that I had purchased on sale, online about a year before that just didn't turn out to fit well but I had kept them in my closet because I loved them. I was finally ready to get rid of them and figured nothing to lose...I was amazed this worked so well. I did notice the stretching solution caused the dye in the leather to run in a few spots inside the shoes, but luckily not on the outside.

Buttero responds very well to a polishing afterwards. I have been using this Saphir clear polish with amazing results. But no, it is not required.

10.5D - I use these in the suggested size, it’s a bit of a snug fit.


Ollieroo Men's Shoe Trees Twin... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WJIRM3Y?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

These "twin spring" shoe trees are a great alternative to the pricier manufacturer products. I picked up several of them and have sanded them down in areas to get a more custom fit for different shoes.

One of the biggest benefits I've found to using these have been the fact that they fit large in the shoe and are actually really good about keeping the toe box from creasing.

For my brown leather shoes, I use this to apply this. And then I hit it with this. There's a lot of different ways to go about it though. Put This On had an episode dedicated to shoes and they demonstrate how to polish your shoes in the film. I highly recommend checking it out (along with their other videos - very good stuff). Good luck.

1. Single Malt Scotch

2. Good Watch

3. Straight Razor Shavette + Kit

4. Decent Pocket Knife

5. Shoe Shine kit

6. Fountain Pen

7. Leather Wallet

8. EDC flashlight

9. Men's manicure set

10. Bottle Opener

Care about your leather the proper way.

There quite a few youtube tutorials about that.

You will need to gather a kit of 3-4 different chemicals (cleaner, softener, cream, wax), two brushes (soft and hard) and some sponges. Then clean your leather every or every other month. Make sure to give enough time between every stage of the cleaning (i.e. apply cleaning solution, buff in, wait 15 mins, buff out).
Should take about 45 minutes once you get a hold of it. You can do like 3 pairs in these 45 mins.

Or take to shoe repair store and and ask 'em to do a deep cleaning on 'em.

Here is the kit I bought on Amazon for this purpose (hope it is OK to post product links here - I get no kickback from these):

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NVK34T0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002A92UZC/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002J8379C/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZGQ4HKW/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KGG7QQY/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J7RL0ZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CSVPP23/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CSYPC3X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MS1IDIA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got them while in china. It's wider at the base of the heel and tapers near thr top.

Amazon has a similar pair.

I have a few different types but greatly prefer these in both finish and function. They're completely worth the few extra bucks.

If you live in a major US City like NY or SF you can find it at specialty shoe repair shops like A Shine & Co. Otherwise, you can get it online from Walmart, Amazon or eBay.

Before you use any liquid based cleaner, try a suede eraser and brush kit.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D1HU4N6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GrXKAb5EVH0CB

Use the brush first to loosen up the material and get surface stains out and then lightly rub with the eraser to get the deeper embedded stains. If there is still discoloration left, use a cleaner like jmarkk or crep.

Has anyone used any shoe stretch spray and did it work?

Some good Amazon reviews for this, but unfortunately now sold out:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00NLM8EL6/?coliid=I1TORPN29280WP&colid=2G5RJOUVO7LJD&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I used Otter Wax. I was looking at Fjallraven wax but their website kept saying that it was developed for their own specialized fabric. It was only after I ordered the Otter Wax that I read the reviews from people that used it successfully on regular canvas. I honestly should have just looked at the ingredients, because I used a homemade product made of the same ingredients to wax a canvas tent when I was in the scouts as a child. I might wax something else using Fjallraven just to see if there is a substantial difference between the products.

I honestly just watched a bunch of videos of people waxing stuff online. Some videos showed people using an iron, but I did not. I simply just rubbed the wax onto the coat and used the friction to soften the wax and make it easier to apply.

I went section by section on the coat. I sort of outlined the sections with wax, and attacked the edges and any weird bends, pocket flaps, or buttons first. Once the intricate parts were waxed I applied the wax in the broadest strokes possible.

I ended up using a lot more of the wax than I previously imagined I would. I first practiced on a super cheap canvas tote by applying wax and testing it to see how waterproof it was, and then applying more wax if necessary.

I started on a sleeve of the coat following the same pattern (wax, test, apply more wax, test, apply more wax, test, etc.). Once I had an idea of the appearance and feel of the proper amount of wax I just repeated it over the entirety of the coat.

After the wax was applied to the consistency I liked, I threw the coat in the dryer for about 45 minutes to an hour. The dryer really helped the wax soak into the fabric and left the surface free of any waxy residue (you can still feel that it is waxed, but it doesn't deposit any wax on your hands). The dryer also evened out the finish/color of the coat.

Total time, not including dryer, was probably around 3.5 - 4 hours. This included my initial tests.

I just use the Red Wing brand leather conditioner, which can be found here .

I used to use Kiwi brand (here), which did a decent job, but I read something somewhere that silicone bases conditioners like Kiwi can cause wear on the leather.

Also, I mentioned earlier to take it by a Red Wing store. They'll condition any Red Wing shoe for free.

Thank you so much for your insight and quick reply. I thought saddle cleaner was less heavy duty than Lexol cleaner so thank you for clearing that up. I have a tendency to over condition, so I'll probably go with the Lexol conditioner over coconut oil because I have trouble regulating the coconut oil.

I won't care much about scuffs/nicks day to day, but I do plan on wearing them with slacks every once in a while so I'd probably want to touch them up then. Would something like this be good for the cigar leather color?

unless you have a can of crep sitting at home, consider this...

https://www.amazon.com/Kiwi-Heavy-Water-Repellant-Ounce/dp/B01KZLKN78/ref=sr_1_1?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1491335973&sr=1-1&keywords=kiwi+camp+dry
same thing but considerably cheaper.

It looks like there are some older review that complain about the sizing. What's your experience

And what about these ones? Stratton Men's Cedar Shoe Tree (Medium) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NJGJ5R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_CwBLBbH2KH5J7

Watch your footing, I go with back roads over sidewalks once it gets really slick. Worst case, get some of these spikes and all your worries are over. Just stay visible.

Has anyone used this brand for suede cleaning gear? It has a waterproofing spray, cleaner, nylon brush, and eraser; is there anything else that I would need?

https://www.amazon.com/Gear-Aid-ReviveX-Nubuck-Fabric/dp/B002HH0PL8/ref=sr_1_1?s=apparel&ie=UTF8&qid=1486936054&sr=1-1&nodeID=7141123011&keywords=suede+care+kit

This is what I highly recommend starting with

try using a shoe tree https://www.amazon.com/Life-Practical-Adjustable-Stretcher-Organizers-x/dp/B01F768TZY/ref=sr_1_13?s=apparel&ie=UTF8&qid=1541991331&sr=1-13&nodeID=9616100011&psd=1&keywords=shoe+tree

Saphir Reno mat or Jason Markk to clean Common Projects? Also, is it necessary to use a leather conditioner to maintain white leather shoes?

I believe most DIY coated denim projects rely on solely wax or a wax/resin mixture. The trick is usually to get even absorption into the fibers.

I can't speak from experience but I would gather maybe a more commercial settings might utilize a polyurethane treatment.

I have these cedarwood shoe trees from a German manufacturer for $22 each. These shoe trees from amazon.com seem to be similar to them and the price is very good as well. Shoe trees are the most important part of shoe care (but never use them with primeknit).

I use mink oil paste to waterproof my boots, but it's not the end-all be-all conditioner.

I ended up with these: https://www.amazon.com/Stuart-Weitzman-Womens-Annaform-Silver/dp/B01BX0ZD02/

Stuart Weitzman Wide is not that wide, so I ended up also buying this: https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Boot-Shoe-Leather-Stretch/dp/B00NLM8EL6/

I usually have a problem with shoes falling off my feet if there's no strap, but these stay on just fine, it seems.

Any particular one you would recommend?

I’m looking at getting this one: https://www.amazon.com/Miscly-Suede-Nubuck-4-Way-Eraser/dp/B01D1HU4N6

This works great on NMDs. reshoeven8r

I use the reshoevn8r kit on all my sneakers. It comes with 3 brushes (soft, medium, hard) so you can clean multiple types of material. I use the soft on suede/primeknit/mesh/laces, medium on the outsole, and hard on the sole. Although, I rarely clean the sole because it's just going to get dirty again anyway.

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reshoevn8r kit

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Do you want a high shine finishing wax or a general shoe care+shining polish? If the latter, I'd say just suck it up and get Saphir Pate De Lux without Prime. Medaille D'Or is their top of the line stuff, but if you're looking to spend a little less, their second-tier line - Beaut Du Cur - is also good. Don't let a few extra days and dollars stop you from buying something you're going to have for months/years.

So should I use mink oil, or not? Is it for something completely different?

So far, it looks like I'm getting this, this, and this. Should I get a shoe conditioner like this, too?

> durable and could last hopefully over 8 months

durable can mean many things, and you seem to need a few different things ...

> I'm getting tired of finding holes both on the inside and outside of sneakers that are months old

So it sounds like you might need hard wearing outers to deal with rocks, brambles, dog walking in long grass. That bit should be easy; choose sneakers meant for off-roading that have leather/suede/hard outers. I'm not sure Adidas PrimeKnit will stand up to dog walking on the sand dunes with tough grass and brambles, for instance, but the Adidas Terrex shoes would do a better job.

> that can handle ~20 miles of walking/jogging per week

Miles per week doesn't matter. Total mileage does. Durable in terms of "soles that last a lot of miles" is not something manufacturers really advertise in sneakers. Most manufacturers advise a max of 500 miles/6 months of wear before you'll see serious sole deterioration that can lead to injury.

Your personal mileage may also vary. Do you "float" as a runner, or stomp? It also depends on your gait (do you have exaggerated gait issues that lead to heavy wear/compression in particular spots of the sole), your weight, how hard you heel-strike/lift-off etc. You might naturally get more than 500 miles out of sneakers, you might naturally get a lot less.

Speaking of gait you should regularly your gait measured (they usually do it for free) at a running store to see if you need neutral/stable shoes for running (or even orthotics) to make sure you don't exacerbate any issues and lead to injuries.

> I walk/jog/ and work all in the same pair.

I don't know what your work is. If it is just sitting then the only concern here is the amount of time you have the shoes on your feet, and how smelly/sweaty they'll get. If it is a lot of walking and manual labour (lifting/twisting your feet on the spot) that's another. Something like the continental soles on the newer adidas terrex/boosts etc. might make the soles last longer, particularly if you find you've been wearing the tread in the same spot on your old pairs. They also might be safer as they are grippy on slick floors.

Given you wear them every day, as much as anything else it's about how you look after them. I would make sure you dry them every night so they don't rot/smell. After you take them off loosen the laces and let them breath for twenty minutes. If they got rained on then take out the insoles and stuff with newspaper to help them dry them out properly. Once dried/if not rained on then use cedar shoe trees to kill bacteria, make them smell good and stop them rotting inside (they only cost $20, get them 3 sizes smaller than your shoes and take out the springs if they look like they might stretch them). Don't put them in a warm place to dry every day; that just helps the bacteria grow.

----------------

TL;DR

• You seem to want durable outers. If you wear holes in your outers quickly then get shoes meant for trail running/off-roading with hard-wearing material.
  
• You also seem to want soles that last (8 months of 20 miles a week = 640 miles) but most manufacturers recommend a 500 mile/6 month limit on soles for running shoes. You may just have to revise expectations on that. However getting your gait analysed will help pick soles that match/help your gait and may decrease the wear on certain spots on the soles/cushioning.
  
• You also wear them every day; there's no fix there other than drying them out every night using newspaper/cedar shoe trees to stop them rotting/smelling.
  

Prep your boots:

Knock back the finish a bit with some diluted dish soap and a scrub brush. Set them aside to dry.

Apply some Sno-Seal liberally with rag or brush. Allow to set. For the first coat, I like to hit it with a hairdryer to let it get into the leather's pores and all the nooks and crannies where boot meets sole.

Apply a second coat of Sno-Seal and wipe off the excess with a rag.

Now get an applicator brush, a polish brush and a wax matching the color of your boots. Kiwi is a good brand, I've been using it for years.

Swirl your applicator brush around in the tin of wax and then apply it to your boots in a vigorous circular pattern. Pay attention to the areas around the crevices (such as in the instep). Let it set for a few minutes and then brush it down with the polishing brush in a vigorous back-and forth motion. Do NOT rub hard with the polishing brush - you're trying to bring it to a shine / gloss, not rub it off.

With the base coat of Sno-Seal and a good layer of wax over it you should be good for all winter. Wipe off any dirt / snow / mud before storing them in the spring, then repeat the process above in the fall.

Source: Army veteran, live in the Pacific Northwest. Many of my boots are over a decade old or more.

EDIT

For anyone following along, I reconditioned my 16-year old Vasque Sundowner boots this morning as they needed it. Questions welcomed.

Kiwi

I've been looking at shoe trees. Do you think this one is better, or this one. Or do you have one that is better than both of those. Also, with the condition that my shoes are in, do you think that using a shoe tree now is too late for my shoes?

I’ve used this on tents, raincoats and shoes with great results.

(http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005MV99L8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1398727451&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40) [this] is it you shouldn't need an lb's worth. 5oz should be fine.

I got this for my suede shoes and it works well! Suede brush, suede eraser, waterproofing spray, and conditioner. I haven't tried the conditioner but the rest of it works great

Clarks Wallabees boots

shoe cleaner

Scarf

The sole lugs on the Sorel seem larger. And, if it matters to you, the style of the Sorels looks a whole lot better, especially in the non-black colors (I'm partial to the Bruno myself).

The removable inner would seal the deal for me. That's a huge advantage, because if you're wearing these every day they will get wet from the inside (unless you wear a VBL sock) and you'll want to dry them out as quickly as possible.

The main advantage I see for the Bugaboot is that it weighs less. If you're hiking in them much, that could make a difference. But if I were hiking a lot in these I would look for something even lower, lighter, and with a better waterproof/breathable membrane (eVent, Gore-Tex, or even even non-waterproof mesh with Gore-Tex socks or VBLs).

And don't forget, fit is king! It might just be worth getting both and trying them on—Zappo's has free shipping both ways. If a boot hurts your feet, its features don't even matter anymore.

Don't forget microspikes and gaiters!

Do I need special shoe trees for boots? Or just standard ones like these?

What's wrong with plain ol' mink oil? http://amzn.com/B000PSDFU4
It's worked for hundreds of years.

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Link: http://www.amazon.com/Extra-Large-Fabric-Wax-Natural-Repellent/dp/B008PJV0P2/


|Country|Link|
|:-----------|:------------|
|UK|amazon.co.uk|



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Kiwi shoe polish - the paste that comes in the flat round tin - is the best kind of polish. You only need black, brown and neutral to do any colour shoe. It's readily available in grocery stores and drug stores where I live. Comes in blue also.

http://www.amazon.com/Kiwi-Neutral-Shoe-Polish-1-1/dp/B000UBOZZU/ref=sr_1_7