(Part 2) Best suspension parts according to redditors

You do not need to have electric power lifter for the frunk to open automatically. Just two stronger coils:
https://www.amazon.com/Pneumatic-Support-Automatic-AY-Customs/dp/B07RXRY5HZ

Enjoy it! I love mine. Perfect little daily driver with enough pep to keep me entertained when I want to. The recaros are amazing.

Couple hints: If you want better seat placement in the car and a more comfortable ride, get this gas pedal spacer. It's not that big, super easy to install, and makes driving it so much more comfortable since your foot doesn't have to travel as far from the brake to the gas. You wouldn't think 9.5mm is a lot, but it works very well. It also makes heel-toe shifting possible/way easier.

Also the mountune short shifter makes the shifter feel like it should out of the factory. Also pretty easy install but you should take out your battery and CPU for easier access and you can also install these shifter bracket bushings at the same time which remove almost all of the rubbery gross play in the shifter. Both of these give a hugely improved feel to the car.

Whether you do or don't do these, you will still have a great car that is fantastic to chuck around. Have fun with it!

It's really not that expensive or difficult. This guy is an idiot for using c-clamps though.

>These are the end links that I ended up buying: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KGDNXR2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LoL, OK so you ARE buying them from a dude in a van ;) The AC delco bushings I'm sure are just fine.

So these sways have zero branding at all on them - they could be complete crap or could be unbranded OEM. I would check that they are torqued properly; I had a brand new sway start making noise because I missed it on my torque rounds and it loosened up. If it's even slightly loose it will make a horrible noise. Just grab the torque wrench, doublecheck spec's and check torque on all four sway studs and all four bushing strap bolts.

For the future, branded, high quality sways are no more expensive than these. I just put top of the line Moog's into my front end for the grand total of 32 bucks prime shipped to me. They're great quality, substantially thicker than OEM, with zerks so I can regrease them easier, and even had wrench flats built in so I didn't have to screw around with stripping out the stem with a torx.

If checking torque doesn't fix it, I'd start looking elsewhere for the noise; while poking your head underneath have someone rock it up and down and look and listen; could be a control arm bushing failing, a blown shock or anything else (hint, shocks are supposed to be dry. If it's wet, it's leaking).

Budget Boost suspension lift spacers (I have them on my Jeep).

Doing this the proper way isn't cheap. It'll cost you a decent chunk of change. I totally understand why so many people just go with wheel spacers: They're dirt cheap, but they'll cost you so much more in the long run when shit starts to break.

A quick google search suggests your factory rake is around 2 to 2.5 inches lower in the front. You should go out and measure yours, from the ground to the highest point of each wheel well.

To level the truck properly, get yourself a set of Bilstein 5100s. (Edit: This is why the Bilsteins are better than spacers) The fronts are ride height adjustable, and will provide up to 2 inches of lift to level out the truck, and they'll do it without the disadvantages of a spacer kit. You'll also get a huge boost to ride quality, unlike a spacer kit which will only hurt your ride quality further.

If you want to install the 5100s yourself you can. The rear shocks are easy, but the fronts require a heavy duty coil compressor (not cheap, but you can usually rent), and it's extremely dangerous if you fuck up. Having a shop install them for you is roughly 4 hours book time, but you can probably cut it in half by doing the rear shocks yourself first. (Those are literally just two bolts, all you need is a couple ratchets and the right sockets / extensions)

Next, if you're worried about the squatting stance while you tow, install air bag rear suspension. These will let you raise up the rear end up the track to balance out a heavy load so the truck isn't squatting and you maintain full range of suspension travel.

The kit by itself requires you to run the fill port somewhere convenient and use your own air compressor at home to fill them. Firestone also sells a variety of compressors for those kits, which you can hook up to either a wireless remote or install a switch in your dash somewhere to control the airbag pressure any time from inside the truck. The heavy duty compressor isn't cheap, however.

Something else to consider: Increasing the size of your tires will effectively decrease the ratio of your differential gears, which is important for towing. You'll put all kinds of extra stress on the driveline if you're not careful. So I would seriously recommend you don't go too much bigger than stock, unless your diffs are geared to 4.10 or something already.

Here's a quick way to get 2" without spending lots of cash...

$55 - Get some extended shackles: http://www.amazon.com/Rough-Country-1-5-2-inch-Adjustable-Shackles/dp/B00B2AFKP2
$30 - Get some 2" front spacers: http://www.amazon.com/Cherokee-Suspension-Leveling-Front-Spacers/dp/B00XV4ES64
Free - Drill your front trackbar mount, or don't... you're low enough - http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/re-lift-re-drill-front-track-bar-279942/
Free- Drop your front brake lines a bit: http://liftyourxj.com/tweaks.html
$25 - Rear soft line from a 91 Dakota @ 22" vs 14": http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-wearever-brake-hydraulic-hose-bha38636/18650200-P
Free - Move the rear axle back to the next hole to compensate for the pinion rise and it's move forward when pushing the springs away from the body more.

Grand total: $110
You don't have to worry about shocks with 2", or a trackbar, or a SYE. Anything higher, and you need to replace all kinds of shit. Granted, It's a shit-tastic lift... but if you're being a huge cheapass... it's a good way to get 2".

Heres everything I bought for my lift, the swaybar end links are of course optional, so are the bumpstops: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019HXJFBA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K5FP2SE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2AF0MU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2AFKP2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GH1OCO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C57XJY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

How about gas hinges... like this

I got mine off of amazon, I can't find the exact ones I got but just a quick search found these:
http://www.amazon.com/StrongArm-4291-Cherokee-Liftgate-Support/dp/B000ALG0KS

And how do you propose you attach this gas spring? Your talking hydraulic struts like what would be other makes/models hoods and or trunks no? You cant just drill a hole anywhere and attach them.

See how it comes with a bracket? https://www.amazon.com/Apexstone-22-5LB-15inch-Spring-Support/dp/B017FVAJP2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1511112813&sr=8-5&keywords=gas+struts

>https://www.amazon.com/Pneumatic-Support-Automatic-AY-Customs/dp/B07RXRY5HZ

This looks like a way more reasonable implementation. I wonder if there are any better ones out there for similar price? The reviews on that mention it being way too strong

These are the front spacers I'm going with.

I know most people here don't like AAL but I'm trying to save whatever I can, this isn't my daily. If I experience sag in the back I'm going to be adding the Rough Country Shackle Relocators. Another option is the rancho 1.5" leaf springs.

Double check to see if that first set includes both the add-a-leafs and spacers.

This is pretty solid if you want a step up from a budget boost though it's more like $300 shipped. Rough country suspensions are a bit stiff, but I run the Series II setup with these shocks and coils and I like it a lot. I don't have a ton of experience with their add-a-leafs though.

There's also some budget boosts with shocks but I have no idea about fitment or quality.

I recently did exactly that (3 inch lift, 31s). If you're looking for ideas or reference, here is "Jade". (Mall parking lot of course. Havent taken her out since I did it)

I did it relatively cheap as far as lifts/tires/rims go. List goes as follows:

BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2 LT31X10.5R15 - $175 x 4 = $700

Pro Comp Steel Wheels 15x8"/5x4.5" $55 x 4 = $220

3 in Rough Country lift $293

Hubcentric Wheel Spacers $27.50 x4 = $110

They installed my lift at Mavis for $390 labor. It was a pretty fair deal.

All in all ~$1700.


I'm about to get a pair of Smittybilt bumpers this week.

Warning. Your fenders will rub. I'm cutting and putting flares on because I need them anyway for legal reasons.

I just put on the Teraflex 1.5" leveling kit. It'd be perfect for what you're wanting.

https://www.amazon.com/Teraflex-1155200-FRONT-LEVELING-SWAYBAR/dp/B007CISU6Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1550174024&sr=8-2&keywords=teraflex+leveling+kit+jeep+jk

If you didn't put on new wheels with the 33s you may consider that as well to increase the backspacing. wheel spacers would also work

Look for Budget Boost kits similar to this: Amazon Link

Gabriel Front shocks $58.99

Gabriel rear shocks $80

These Spring assisted gabriels can be replaced with basc hand tools and need 2 jacks to be replaced.

Or

Front and rear shocks $135

Other than needing a single car jack and hand tools this set can be installed easily.

how to front shocks


coil spring $61

Coil spring $64

Coil spring insulater $5

coil spring tool $15 - $50 or you can rent a tool at your local auto shop for a refundable deposit.

how to replace coil springs

If you have basic tools this entire repair can be had for as little as $250. You would pull out the shocks and springs then install the springs first then the shocks.

Here’s a link to the one I purchased. It was an alternate since the one Brian initially suggested was out of stock. I felt weird buying it coz it was for a Jeep but it worked perfect.

Beneges 2PCs Hood Lift Supports Compatible with 2005-2010 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 2005-2010 Jeep Commander Front Hood Gas Spring Struts Shocks Dampers SG414046, SG404028, 6304 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075FW3XSC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QjCTDb1ESD9PN

Hey OP Make that fit snug! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J2BKY0I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So you have a 3 inch lift and added shackles what kind which ones?

Would this work...

https://www.amazon.com/Supreme-Suspensions-Cherokee-Suspension-Adjustable/dp/B00IU34QH2?crid=QY1LY357HBDB&keywords=jeep+xj+shackles&qid=1537474159&sprefix=jeep+xj+shackl&sr=8-5&ref=mp_s_a_1_5

I just installed the new sway bar end links today. The noise went away for a few hours and then I started to drive on a bumpy road on my way to work and the sound came back. These are the end links that I ended up buying: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KGDNXR2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The bushings are also brand new. I replaced them on the same day. Everything looks fine, no cracks or deterioration.

These are the bushings that I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007QBWBZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When I got them they were blue and not black

Got it from Amazon but I still needed a couple rubber washers to fully snug it up. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J2BKY0I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_qaQUibQQlSpoN

these ones

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075FW3XSC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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they were linked in that youtube videos description as well.

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Head to your preferred parts supplier and see if they have a tie rod/ball joint/pitman arm removal tool set you can rent for a while. You're gong to want something like this, which has an assortment of pullers and pushers for extracting a variety of steering/suspension components. One of the tools in the kit should help pop the tie rod end out of the knuckle without having to beat it, and yourself, to death.

https://www.amazon.com/Double-Adhesive-Automotive-Mounting-Installation/dp/B07526XSZX/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=ikon+louver&qid=1571856732&sr=8-6

A kit with metal mounts that stick to the glass with good old 3m tape. The tape that came from the factory was not the best so I'm going to take it to be professionally installed at a body shop.

Edit for link https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07526XSZX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_OPhdBb6VEWA8Y

You would need a torch to heat up the stuck insert evenly. It will cause the metal to expand, and prying on it will release it.

You could also try putting it in a vise and using a pickle fork or ball joint separator.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A0AWELW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_E.nKDbA7MWB1W

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/16-in-Ball-Joint-Separator-63420.html

This is what I got https://smile.amazon.com/Ford-Fiesta-Pedal-Lift-Spacer/dp/B0116HT0MY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1517656394&sr=8-4&keywords=no+pistons+spacer

The 2012 only has one bolt on the bottom mount. This is the set I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MQ9TBX0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The fronts are Bilstein No. 24-239394

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-44870-Gold-Support-Clamp/dp/B0002SRCYM/ref=asc_df_B0002SRCYM/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312049103272&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13892432015374041681&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9023412&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-491398995019&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=62837065100&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312049103272&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13892432015374041681&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9023412&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-491398995019

Supreme Suspensions - Cherokee Lift Kit 2" Front Suspension Lift + Adjustable 1.5" - 2" Rear Suspension Lift + Transfer Case Drop Kit Jeep Cherokee XJ Leveling Kit (Black) PRO https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IU34QH2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_F2AfAbPGR2753
Comes with a transfer case drop if it's wobbling at high speeds after installing it but mine didn't need it. I got a shop to do it for me and it got pretty expensive for the shocks and everything, but I'm glad I didn't do it myself he was telling me all the crap that he had to work around and I wouldn't have been able to deal with it. Very worth it though

I'm pretty sure I do have lowering springs on the rear shocks, yeah. If I went with a complete strut assembly like so would I still have to swap over the spring and upper mount.

I didn't install them, the last owner's mechanic did. The bill says:

172263/172264 Quick strut: https://www.amazon.com/Monroe-172263-Quick-Strut-Assembly/dp/B009B42G58

5k miles ago. The catch is that was in 12/2014 as the car sat for a while. I just checked the back of the bill and it says that the parts are covered under lifetime warranty, labor isn't, and only as long as the original customer brings it in. Maybe I can convince them to bring it in...

Interesting, the price has gone up to what ExtremeTerrain was selling it for:

Teraflex 1155200 JK 2IN FRONT 1IN... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007CISU6Y?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

If the compressor is bad it may be from leaky air bags on the rear. this will cause the compressor to run more that it should shortening it's life. At that point you may want to look into replacing them with a coil spring kit and eliminate the compressor setup(just leave it in there). I know that didn't immediately answer your question but it's what I'd do if it were mine.

http://www.amazon.com/Moog-CC865-Variable-Rate-Spring/dp/B000COTT1U/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8

I have done this suspension job myself on my '03 Town Car. The springs, not shocks, are what replaces the air bags. You can find the rear spring replacement kit here. As you can see, it's not expensive at all. There is a very minor decrease in ride comfort, but also a minor improvement in handling.

Sorry about the delayed response. Here’s what I’d tell you regarding install:

This is definitely not a “first time with a wrench” kind of job, but part of the reason I learned anything was by performing jobs I was under-qualified to complete in the first place

I’d say if you want to save a few hundred bucks then go for it. I would recommend you have a contingency plan such as a second vehicle to drive to the store for a missing tool/part, or to drive the shock/spring down to a shop to have them remove it for you if you run into trouble

Final piece of advice is this: compressing the spring with something like these can be extremely dangerous if not done properly. I’d recommend you start by watching a few videos of guys performing that part of the task (there are a few specifically for silverados) - if you don’t feel you are up to this part of the task, then have them installed professionally. If you are ready/willing/able to get that part of the install done the rest is just some tight bolts, properly placed jacks/stands, and a few hours to kill.

Highly advise you call a buddy to help. They might even be inexperienced too but they’ll get to learn along with you

for the rear, lift under the differential (use a hockey puck between the jack and diff cover if your jack doesn't have a pad) and put a jack stand on each side of the car on the frame just in front of where the LCA meets the chassis.

Then lower the jack under the axle which will let you push down the axle so that the springs just fall out.

don't lift the car at the LCA's. They don't seem like they are designed to bear that much pressure on that chassis joint but I could be wrong.

Camber plates are not really needed until you hit about a 2" front drop.

Here's a short list of the most common tools I carry when working on someone's car

Torque wrench

Deep sockets that can take a beating from an impact gun

Extensions (pro tip: if you ever have to change your starter, you will need about 15+ inches of extensions)

And this is the spring compressors I use

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CMDPLM/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also have a 90 something piece craftsman set with most of the 1/4" and 3/8" drive bits and swivels/boxx wrenches, etc but usually use the 1/2 stanley sockets get grabbed first.

These are also super handy if you have a power drill (better yet, a power drill with impact setting)


Mustangs don't really have a whole lot of random tools needed to work on them so unless you have a foreign car, your tool set shouldn't ever really get too complicated.

It's typically when you get blindsided by some small little issue like a rusted or rounded off bolt that can turn a 2 hour job into a 2 day job. I worked on a guy's old fox body to help him replace a clutch and he had 2 stripped transmission bolts. I had these handy which were more or less the only way we could have gotten that done (besides calling a tow truck to take it to a transmission shop)

http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-Tools-394001-Bolt-Grip/dp/B0000CCXVZ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1406576108&sr=8-2&keywords=stripped+bolt+remover

If you have a 97+ these work great
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ALG0KS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MA.5ybWVS0DG2

Use a vice grip on the hydraulic shaft - if you set it just right it holds tight and doesn't damage the already broken hydraulic.

I did that for about 1 year until I said fuck it and spent the $40 on two new ones from amazon.

Check on Amazon for a support clamp. I've attached a link to something that may help... Lisle 44870 Gold Lift Support Clamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRCYM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XqBwDbWHM3HAR

Prop rod support clamps are your best friend. (hit up a few parts stores and you'll find one sub $10 eventually.