(Part 2) Best thermometers according to redditors

15$

https://www.amazon.com/Oritronic-Thermometer-Temperature-Non-Contact-Refrigerator/dp/B07V4RFNGT/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=temperature+gun&qid=1569601746&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE5WkNVTTZWQlZJRDcmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA1MjE0MzcyTUo2S1ZKRENGQ0c2JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA3NjQxMjgxVkFWMjVBRU9JQU5UJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

I know a number of pros that use these because they're: accurate, quicker than they're rated, and won't break the bank if one walks off.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LDI8PK

Yes, you're fine.

You will need a heat gun. I have this but this lower end one is more than sufficient. I have the more expensive one for curing epoxies and such. I also use it for breaking in new engines or starting engines when it's cold out. I also have a temp gun to check when the engine is heated up.

Check the top of the head next to the glow plug for 180 degrees and then fire it up. If it's an engine that's broken in, I'll just heat it up until it's around 150 on a cold day and get it going. If you don't want to buy a temp gun, just heat the engine up until it's hot enough that you can't hold your finger on it for more than 1-2 seconds without feeling like it's burning you.

Just remember you're going to have to retune as the weather swings to even more extreme colds in the winter or as the weather warms up. Fall/spring are the worst because you tend to have to retune literally every day and sometimes even throughout the day to keep it running.

You don't actually need a dark room, it's a common misconception. You only need that if you plan to use an enlarger and make your own prints. I don't, but only due to lack of space in my apartment - I scan them in and order prints at Costco or Bartells like any normal digital scan.

If you get one of the Paterson Reel tanks like I have in that photo, you just need a changing bag. Put your 1-2 rolls of film, a bottle opener, a pair of scissors, and all the tank pieces in the bag. Seal it up, pop open the film canister with the bottle opener, then spool the film onto the reels. Put both reels back in the tank and seal it up. Everything else can be done in daylight. (you can skip the bag and do this in a pitch black room like your bathroom or a closet if you want. I prefer the bag- I can sit on the couch and watch TV while I spool rolls).

Then you're just dumping in chemicals on a timed schedule and then unspooling and hanging them to dry when complete. B&W is roughly 13 minutes a batch at diluted 1+1, or 6 minutes at stock (full strength) solution. Stock just uses it up twice as fast, but saves time.

B&W = developer (12-15 minutes for most films at 1+1 - check the massive dev chart -> stop bath (1 minute) -> fixer (1 minute) -> rinse (2-3 minutes) -> hang to dry (2ish hours or until totally dry).

Color = developer (6ish minutes) -> blix (2-3 minutes) -> rinse (2-3 minutes) -> stabilizer (1 minute) -> hang to dry (2ish hours).

I'm pulling those numbers from memory, but the unicolor kit has a good guide with it.

Stuff you need

• D-76 developer (black and white)
  
• Stop bath (black and white)
  
• Fixer (black and white)
  
• C-41 developer kit (color)
  
• Changing bag
  
• 500ml beaker (at least 1, up to 3 for convenience)
  
• 1L beaker (at least 1, up to 3 for convenience)
  
• .5L plastic bottles (At least 6)
  
• Scissors
  
• Bottle opener
  
• Funnel (optional, if you have steady pouring hands)
  
• Paterson Reel tank
  
• Glass thermometer (optional for B&W, necessary for color)
  
• Clothespins/some string or paracord to hang film to dry
  
• A bucket (5G or so- small cleaning bucket - Color only)
  
  For B&W film - you use the 1+1 developer one time (150ml per roll of film) and dump it when you finish. Which means that 1L D-76 pouch gives you 6 rolls of film. I buy mine in the 1G bags to mix up as they're cheaper, but you need a 1G plastic bottle to store it. For color film that kit does 8-9 rolls of film. The bigger 1G kits are more expensive and you can also buy the chemicals separately. Color is picky because you need to keep it at a constant 103F the whole time or risk ruining them, hence the bucket (or a bathtub). Color developer and all other chemicals you dump back into bottles and re-use until it's used up.
  
  The color film process is actually really well documented in the booklet that comes with the unicolor kit.
  
  If you ever want a hands on trial, I can do a video of the process or a demo at my apartment (my fiance thinks it looks like I'm doing crazy mad science stuff every time)
  
  Check out /r/analog for weekly advice threads or some of these helpful links:
  
  
• Color development
  
• B&W development
  
• Massive Dev chart for B&W

Smart Wireless Refrigeration Scale, 110lb cap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0758492Q9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_q724CbNACQHA2

I've been using this one for a year or so. It's accurate, reliable, and well made. It has no screen so you have to pair it with bluetooth to the app. That part is easy and the app is very minimalistic. It's a good scale.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M5BCIFR?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

I'm using the Bitspower one and have been very happy with it. In my case I placed it in one of the bottom ports of my radiator. The length of the sensor doesn't really matter, as long as the water flows across it.

I'm also using one of these for the display Keynice Digital Thermometer

I started with a 20 gallon Winware Aluminium kettle, a custom bag , ball valve, a clip on thermometer, and a couple of Aquatainers for no chill. I miss the simplicity of that setup.

Looking for a laser thermometer to see how hot my stove gets. Any recommendations?


https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Thermometer-Non-contact-Temperature-58%E2%84%89-1022%E2%84%89/dp/B07B1W45TT/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_469_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=4PM6NB773R0NZYPE1QY9


u/dopnyc

When using those things in the past I bundled the cable together with a ziptie and kept the whole thing down in the cage.

What will you be using to heat the enclosure? To be safe, I recommend getting an infared thermometer to double check your temps. Those thermometers you are using have been known to be unreliable and it is good to have something to double check.

Your tank looks great from what I can see. Snakes don't need much, just some places to hide and proper temps/humidity which you seem to have down. You don't NEED a branch for climbing, but if you enjoy seeing them climb around go for it!

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you can order the metal gallium online, melts at 86F/30C, but that's kind of expensive just for one data point

I think I would calibrate it against a glass thermometer I had checked at 0C and 100C. Heat a water bath from 0C to 50C, compare glass thermometer and voltage readings.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LQ2I2M

However, I doubt you'll gain much more accuracy than the two point method.

If you want consistent measurements, buy lab gear, not kitchen gear.

I use this one from Fisher Scientific
http://www.amazon.com/Fisher-Scientific-Digital-Thermometers-Stem/dp/B0015SGXAM

It's not the most elegant, but it's accurate and precise, and that's what I need.

One trick i discovered for quicker readings; fill a travel coffee mug with hot water in the same general temperature range you're trying to measure (ie, around 145-160ish for mashing). Put the lid on, and slide this probe in through the drinking hole. This will keep the probe at roughly the correct range, and reduce your temperature read time to just a couple seconds rather than 10-15. The water will slowly cool down (depending on how good your travel mug is) but you can just pour off a portion of it into a microwaveable mug, microwave it 'til it's boiling, then add back in to raise the temp. This allows me to take quick readings of my mash temperature without leaving the cooler lid open too long.

The Velineon system comes with a VXL ESC that rated for 2S lipos. It's plug and play with your Slash. Replace the motor - throw your pinion on it and mesh the gears - bolt in the esc - plug everything up and you're off to the races. Your batteries should already have the traxxas high current connectors on them.

Glad I could help you - I really like the Velineon motor, you'll enjoy it they are a blast! Not sure what happened to your other motor - sounds like it may have gotten to hot. So probably wouldn't be a bad idea to pick yourself up a cheap IR heat gun/sensor. I use a Duratrax Flashpoint but if you have a harbor freight around you they have a gun style on for like $15 or cheaper. Make sure you stay under 200 F on the velineon - which on 2S with stock gearing and tires shouldn't be an issue at all.

Something like this one: https://www.amazon.com/W1609-101-Refrigeration-Thermostat-Temperature-Control/dp/B07MXWTY2L/ref=pd_day0_hl_60_4/134-2147294-4925868

This is a "close on rise" but it looks like it actually has a form C contact. But you want to wire this to an electrical outlet, and plug your inkbird into it. Both probes go into the fridge. Then if the temp gets really low, this T-stat opens, shutting down the Inkbird. If you want, you could wire a flashing light or buzzer to the other side of the form C contact, which would alert you to the problem.

Here is an option for around $60 I have been looking




Infrared Thermometer-HOLDPEAK HP-2732 Pyrometer Digital Dual Laser Thermometer 30:1 IR Temperature Gun Non-Contact Thermometer -58℉~2732℉(-50℃~1500℃),Backlit,Adjustable Emissivity for Forge Smelting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PLHR7W1/

Pick yourself up a cheap clamp meter and put it around the wire that feeds the circuit you're interested in.

CliniCloud Non Contact Thermometer

Weirdly, if I google SPL1024 I see it as the second hit, but if I add the Rev 2.1 I get nothing relevant.

ordered this one today: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00551N8Q2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WtnIAb2PJBB0T arrives tomorrow. I'll start a new post with the temperature, stay tuned!

edit: here's the post.

If you're interested, I'm happy to help you with learning slip casting in trade for some help programming? This is me.

You've done some great work, I'd love to learn how to use just part of it to hook up a portable pyrometer to log the data of an computer controlled electric kiln.

Also, you might like to look into how Blaauw Kilns function. At this point they are the most advanced kilns available, with programmable gas firings using an oxygen probe.

Sweet work!

I have had this thermometer before. After a few months, it was variably off +/- 20 degrees when it was checked for accuracy.

Now, a good thermometer is Cooper. Check out this one. Had it for about 2 years. Totally waterproof. 100% accurate every time. Instant readings.

http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Atkins-Digital-Waterproof-Thermometer/dp/B000LDI8PK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1370694381&sr=8-2&keywords=cooper+thermometer

Cooper-Atkins DFP450W-0-8

I have one of these. Its cheap, seems to be spot-on accurate, and quick. The other day the screen broke (probably my fault I put in the dishwasher) and I emailed their CS and they just sent me a new one no questions asked. They just told me to toss out the old one and the new one would get mailed to me at no cost to myself at all. I was very pleasantly surprised.

If it’s made for a car with the same engine and header you should be good to go. You just gotta make sure your engine is running the right temps

With that being said keep an eye on your engine temps make sure you keep the engine temperature at least 190 degrees Fahrenheit and don’t let it get above 230 degrees

Get yourself one of these is you don’t already have one Duratrax DTXP3100 Flashpoint Infrared Temperature Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00144E8A4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uhN4DbC3FF8GG

Just got this: http://amzn.com/B0015SGXAM

Been really pleased with it.

Try Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/SEOH-Thermometer-Spirit-Partial-Immersion/dp/B004LQ2I2M/ref=zg_bs_393283011_14?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=46XJGS5GFYEXYB9H23EN

https://www.amazon.com/Thermometer-Spirit-Total-Immersion-Scale/dp/B004LPZ42Y/ref=zg_bs_393283011_33?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GB83DP7GAGSWKTP5AW7V

https://www.amazon.com/SEOH-Thermometer-Spirit-Partial-Immersion/dp/B004LQ2I2M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494692273&sr=8-1&keywords=chemistry+thermometer

Mine is an Urceri ir-818

Thanks! Forgive some very basic questions, but what is ramp/soak? And why is a PID controller better than, say, a logging digital thermometer like this? (though that thermometer is more expensive than ideal considering my cheap roaster...)

https://www.amazon.com/Amprobe-TMD-56-Multi-Logging-Thermometer-Accuracy/dp/B005GFHZLG

That should work for you

Edit: they make other models; usb logging and such... take a pick; including ones that can be submersed.

I use this Amprobe with my 1600+. The wires do not terminate in long metal probes, so I can easily snake them into the roaster. This model also has USB so I can log roasts.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GFHZLG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What I would suggest, from a cost standpoint, is calling around to different HVAC companies and asking if they could come and take these measurements for you. The combination of tools can get quite costly. Of course this will only give you one set of measurements at one set of conditions. But if you'd like to do it yourself, here you go:

Anyone can measure static pressure: Part 1

Anyone can measure static pressure: Part 2

Tools required: manometer


Measuring Airflow (CFM)

Tools required dual input thermometer

Superheat and Subcooling: an explanation

Measuring superheat and subcooling

Tools required: gauges and hoses

I've thought about this for sometime because i want to build out a van so i can do ski touring, and theirs not always a shower available. Anyways, I've thought maybe a 5 gallon pot with a thermometer, being heated on a burner might work. I don't think it would take long to heat up considering that it only needs to be heated to 39C / 102F or so. You could at this point poor that into a pump sprayer, or use a portable shower head and put the pump right into the pot. As to how to do it in the van, i've thought maybe if you sat on a small bench in a portable plastic tub, or built your own wooden tub to your own dimensions. Then just either pour out the water, or pour into a greywater jug. If you built your own tub, you could even install a little drain into it with a rubber stopper.

Here is the mobile version of your link

sand mat: https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Sand-Mat-40-Gallon/dp/B00FKBFYG4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=sand+mat+40+gallon&qid=1565210391&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Hide: https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-Shale-Hide-Out-Medium-Aquarium/dp/B0018CJNEI/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?keywords=exo+terra+hide&qid=1565210430&s=gateway&sr=8-15

Terrarium hood: https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Naturalistic-Terrarium-18-Inch/dp/B001HWBPVI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=18+inch+terrarium+hood&qid=1565210464&s=gateway&sr=8-1

UVB light: https://www.amazon.com/Reptisun-Mini-Compact-Fluorescent-Pack/dp/B014AB76PQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=zoo+med+uvb&qid=1565210520&s=gateway&sr=8-2

Heat light: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Spotted-Wild-Blue-Terrarium-Amphibians/dp/B01K0XDP8U/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=blue+spotted+60w&qid=1565210587&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Temperature gun: https://www.amazon.com/Thermometer-ZOTO-Temperature-Instant-read-Thermocouple/dp/B07H5G8ZZZ/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=temperature+gun&qid=1565210643&s=gateway&sr=8-8