(Part 3) Best weatherproofing products according to redditors
We found 599 Reddit comments discussing the best weatherproofing products. We ranked the 176 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
Having 4 headphones laying around your desk turns out to be pretty annoying after awhile. A lot of the headphone stands I looked at were a bit pricy(or maybe I'm just way too cheap, huh), so I drew one up instead.
Solidworks Assembly
Solidworks Render
I had a roll of pipe insulation laying around, so I cut some up and glued it to the base and hanger portions of the headphone stands. It gives the headphones a nice bit of padding and also plays nice with anything the stand sits on.
Booted up the ol 3d printer and let it run for about 20 hours. Total cost was around $6 or so. Headphones are off the desk and quite nicely presented :D.
Yes, the headphone stand is adjustable as well.
Acoustic Insulation OWENS CORNING 703 2 INCH PACK OF 6 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BJMX65O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CEoWCbPHRKSKE
Huh?
OC 703, 2"
OC 705, 2"
Roxul 60, 2"
They make lots of different thicknesses.
Any hardware store will have it. I use this stuff around the edges of the vinyl curtain things and stuff this in the gap between the top of the raised window and the glass behind it. Literally just put mine in earlier this week - make sure you clean the window sill and edges so the stuff will stick properly.
If you want to get fancy, rope caulk is even better, and you can peel it off when you go to pull the window AC out.
You can also buy foam board and use that instead of the garbage plastic accordion curtains. Might help keep some of the noise of the compressor part of the window AC out as well.
I had a pretty effective method that I used in the dorms two years ago. The main thing you need to focus on when smoking in a dorm room is airflow. You want to create negative air pressure in your room ie have more air leaving your room than entering it. This will keep the smoke going out the window, rather than into the hallway.
To do this you will need 3 things:
Once you have setup the negative pressure, you want to test your setup by holding a lighter around the edges of the door. If you have set your room up properly the flame should either not move, or blow sightly inside your room. If the flame is attracted to the cracks around the door then your setup is not working and you need to fix that before lighting up.
After that the next thing to consider is the type of piece you will be using to smoke. You will want to use glass or a vape. Never smoke a joint or a blunt in your room! You want to take smaller hits to prevent your bowl from cherrying. The idea is to have as little smoke in your room as possible. I would usually cover the bowl with my hand after my hits to prevent a cherry. Then just exhale through a sploof (paper towel roll with dryer sheets) into the fan.
Hope this is helpful, this method got me through my freshman year with no trouble whatsoever. Make sure you don't open your door until your room has aired out, which is usually pretty quick if you follow the steps I outlined above.
You want high density fiberglass. It works as well as professional stuff, is easy to DIY and is TONS cheaper. The Owens Corning 703 will also work, but not as well. I read a white paper about it somewhere...
The only issue is the cost of shipping. But, you can special order it from home depot (but you'll need to buy a lot, so try and find someone else who wants some).
Egg crate foam will be good at absorbing the very highs, but not the upper mids, mids or lows. You need something denser.
Edit: and the other recommendations for rockwool are good as well.
I'm a professional mechanical engineer and a Certified Energy Auditor per the AEE.
Here's a couple things I did for my house that helped. They might help you.
Weatherize the garage: Add a floor threshold to the garage. Best done in the summer. Replace the weather seal on the top and sides. Replace the garage door threshold. All Amazon links. Measure your door and get the correct dimensions. I just linked to general items.
Weatherize your outlets and light switches: All holes through the wall allow tempered air to leak out. (nice warm air in the winter, nice cool air in the summer). With a flathead screwdriver, you can add gasket seals to all of your switches and outlets to reduce air leakage.
Weatherize doors and windows: If there are doors and windows that you don't use often, or don't use for a season, seal them off. If you use a door more frequently, there's lots of draft dodgers to help seal the door. Growing up, if it got super cold, we'd take a spare down comforter and nail it to the wall, totally covering the door.
As far as thermostats go, changing out the thermostat to a wifi thermostat and/or a programmable thermostat will go a long ways towards energy savings. Nest is definitely the best thermostat out there, but I recognize that it's the most expensive. In my opinion, the Nest is the best one because it has the best developed home/away sensors, has a clean and slick easy-to-use app (even for 8 thermostats like you'd have), and easiest to use scheduler. Don't change just one thermostat. Change all of them. At the very least, change the thermostat to a programmable one.
In general, it would help to go through the weatherproofing page of Amazon and buy and install anything that applies to your home and apartment.
As far as capital equipment, replacing boilers with condensing boilers can help, but remember that condensing boilers provide the most savings at the
temperature extremes.during shoulder seasons. Consult a local professional mechanical engineer to determine if they will really benefit your location.edit: had a brain fart when i wrote this. condensing boilers provide the most savings at the shoulder seasons. take a place like Fairbanks, AK, which, aside from this winter, generally spends most of the winter at the design outdoor temperature of -40. a condensing boiler operating at the design limit doesn't provide any more savings than a "standard" 80% AFUE efficient boiler. just doing my part to avoid spreading misinformation on the internet.
Consider polycro instead of tyvek. I used a tyvek ground sheet almost all of last year, then switched. Tyvek works perfectly fine, but it's noisy (if that matters), a little unwieldy to fold up, it's heavier, and packs larger than a sheet of polycro. I got mine from amazon after seeing many suggestions. It might not be as tough as tyvek, but it's pretty cheap, super light, and packs really small. Here's another one that's more expensive since it's not prime-eligible, but it comes with tyvek anchor loops. Just remember it's shrink-wrap, so it'll shrink a bit when it's first exposed to heat.
This is the polycryo you want: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002GKC2FS/ref=twister_B078BYTHC5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Feels ultra flimsy, but it hangs in there (and you'll have enough for a couple of ground sheets anyway). It's the lightest stuff out there.
If you hate it, I'd jump straight to this stuff: https://ripstopbytheroll.com/products/membrane-silpoly
You'd probably be wise to email them about how much you'd need to get the dimensions you needed. But anyway, I suggest that stuff because Tyvek, although cheap and durable, is pretty heavy at 1.85 oz./yd. Memberane silpoly weighs half that.
The common term is weather stripping.
From your picture what you currently have is a fairly inexpensive foam version that tends to break down and compress, which is why you are getting drafts. It's generally only attached with double sided tape and should peel right off easily enough. You can get something like Goo-Gone to clean the left over adhesive off before applying new.
Something like this should be available at any HomeDepot, Lowes or similar.
http://www.amazon.com/Duck-Heavy-Duty-Adhesive-Weatherstrip-17-Feet/dp/B0025KUSY6
http://i.imgur.com/I3knEy7.jpg
Old picture because lazy, but polyurethane between the bumps works pretty well.
This is what I used. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EQON6Q/
This is the tint I bought but any variant will do. This screen is a 12x12 Dell monitor that I bought from goodwill
Home Depot/Lowes/Amazon (or other hardware) sells window film reflective material. Basically it would look like a one way mirror depending on how reflective you get and you can apply it to the lenses already there in the pic. Read a review for this (someone wrote about using it in cosplay for a stormtrooper).
Example:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NBXFA7G/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1495152479&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=window+film+mirror&dpPl=1&dpID=41566EZDzXL&ref=plSrch
Get yourself some of this stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/Acoustic-Insulation-OWENS-CORNING-INCH/dp/B00BJMX65O
And make some wood frames for them and then wrap them in whatever material you see fit.
Heres the ones I made:
https://imgur.com/a/lx9r9vG
A guide to help you:
https://fullenglish.co/blog/2016/8/13/sound-absorber
I can't work in untreated rooms anymore. Night and Day difference.
Tape and a heavy sheet of plastic. You can also get more elaborate:
https://www.amazon.com/ZipWall-ZipDoor-Standard-Containment-ZDS/dp/B00720KKVK
I thought this was a joke...
Don't glue it. That won't last long. Try something like rubber tape. https://www.amazon.com/M-D-Building-Products-6619-2-Inch-/dp/B000HE5ZB8/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1467078339&sr=8-7&keywords=rubber+tape They have some at places like Home Depot. Maybe even layered electrical tape. It will peel up eventually.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011T0ZCM0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Get some of this stuff. You see a crack, shove it in there. You can use a screwdriver to get it in place. Also, consider insulating and taping the window where you put in a unit. It makes a big difference.
Window film is fucking magical. It's more effective than anyone believes until they try it themselves. However, if you want to be able to open your windows, it won't work. If you're mostly interested in keeping cool, rather than keeping warm, there is a reflective window decal thing you can buy. That stuff and cell shades should help a lot.
Sounds like you need a Double Draft Stopper.
More photos of the van found here: https://www.instagram.com/grantsvan/
More pictures of the curtains & insulation found here .
You can buy your own 1" denim insulation Here!
The van is a 2014 Ram Promaster 2500 high top with 163,000 miles on it. Im still in build-mode, but the adventure begins in 3 months when I move to Boulder CO to live for 4 months.
This is almost exactly the same size as my garage. We're closing on the house Tuesday and I'm already thinking about how to convert it into a man cave. This is a good post for your average joe's man cave. Yea, that Vinyl flooring would look good. Have you thought about insulating the garage door? I'm thinking about using this NASA insulation on mine.
This is what /u/RebuildingABungalow is referring to:
https://www.amazon.com/Dow-Froth-Spray-Insulation-Class/dp/B019G0KJ1Y
It is not cheap. You might be better off getting some quotes from local foam companies in your area.
I installed this kit (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018MI9NYK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) earlier last year... I agree that it's definitely better in the summer for reflecting the heat, and winter, while it would potentially help, would be more impacted by any gaps/spaces that would let the cold in. One additional thing you could do would be to put actual insulation between the door and the panels that are installed.
Someone also mentioned the noise benefits too, which I agree, and would add that it also dampens the sound of the door opening and closing a bit...
I'm looking at ways to improve sealing as well. I thought about going the sealant tape route as you wouldn't have to remove the vesc. Do you think this 3M conforming tape would get shredded quickly? It molds almost like tube sealant. Something like gaffer or metallic tape is another option. Did you use double sided foam tape for the vesc and single sided for the battery gap? Any overheating issues? The first link is ribbed and it might even be possible to squeeze it under the coverings without removal. Great ideas guys!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002BXXAJM/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007Y7CKVO/ref=pd_aw_sim_328_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=W6HKT83VD4Z7GFJH3V9A&dpPl=1&dpID=71s%2BB7D7QgL&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YQAHEHM/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_328_of_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HF364X4RD0YY8S8TJYC6
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002BXXAJM/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
I used weather proofing strips like this: https://www.amazon.com/Density-Adhesive-Weather-Stripping-Insulation/dp/B06XCK65QM/ref=zg_bs_495368_12?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=19AS7PJMT4HW8Y4C6FEF
The design is a bit different, and the dash was redesigned to have less rattles. My '05 was much better than my '08 until i did semi solid mounts.
For the rattle in the center of the dash by the window, there is a peg that the dash mounts into and it rattles i guess. I've never bothered to take the top dash pad off, and i don't like messing with airbags unless i actually need to do something.
But. buy some weather stripping foam. i bought all the foam and rubber stripping they sold at walmart, and this is the stuff i liked the best.
Put it into the gap between your windshield and the dash pad along the entire front. Mine fit snug, i didn't remove the adhesive, just left the tape over it.
That makes a huge difference.
Thanks! I saw that you suggested weather strips for the dust, found these on Amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/Weather-Stripping-Weatherstrip-Adhesive-Insulation/dp/B06XCK65QM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1537253608&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=weather%2Bstripping&th=1
Do you have any experience with them? I was wondering which measure would a detolf need. I'm guessing the 1/2*1/8.
This film turns regular glass into a one way mirror, and it's pretty cheap. The only other thing you'd need is some pieces of glass, a way to put holes in them, and bolts instead of screws for the hinges.
You can get 2 kinds. The automotive tint is self-adhesive. There's also a window mirrored tint for home or office, but you need to get a clear type glue to apply it. Both options, will come with a lot more than you need though.
water is actually running under the siding which has caused quite a bit of damage to the plywood, so i guess it's technically flooding the garage.
I just finally got an inlaw to move their car out of the garage so I'm able to fix the issues with it.
While my door has a moisture issue as well, it's not as bad. I'm looking at this product for the door. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XQATJ8/?coliid=I2IQV9JUA5XFXY&colid=1M2CE0RY6DZQD&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
For the sidewalls, I Just found these so I'm going to look up the specs on their material as they may work well for adhering to the bottom of my siding.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/M-D-Building-Products-3-8-in-x-17-ft-All-Climate-P-Strip-Weather-Stripping-02550/100353488
Take a look at a Zipwall Zip Door. Not sure how it will work at heat transfer, but it definitely reduces airflow.
What about putting something like this around the car area ?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XQATJ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ESSYDbH20VY49
I installed this film to my west-facing windows. It did nothing for the heat.
Looks like home depot has it: http://www.homedepot.com/b/Building-Materials-Insulation-Denim-Insulation/N-5yc1vZbvev?Ns=P_REP_PRC_MODE%7C0
If I wanted to order on Amazon Prime though, closest I could find is: https://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-CF1-Multi-Purpose-Insulation/dp/B004Y6SX1Y/ref=sr_1_1?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1481823411&sr=8-1&keywords=denim+insulation&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011
How similar is the latter stuff?
Also, newb question on subwoofer construction: how do I determine how much of this to stuff into a sealed enclosure? Say, as much as I can possibly fit without obstructing the driver? What happens if you use too much?
Sorry about that!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2fs3HxK1qZA
There's a copper input line to the evaporator and a PVC output line from the evaporator back to the condenser. The PVC line was poorly insulated so it was frozen and the ice was melting, causing some condensation in my basement. I wrapped it up in some insulating pipe wrap (https://www.amazon.com/Duck-1285244-Insulation-11-Inch-25-Feet/dp/B002GKC2WG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498243350&sr=8-1&keywords=pipe+insulation) then secured the material with insulating tape.
When I finish my review I will show off my solution. It involves this Frost King 3/8" Foam Tape and some scissors.
You may have to shop around for thickness, but something like: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BXXAJM/
You line the edge near the door so that it will be flush against this when it's closed. This will create a barrier that prevents dust from getting past the cracks into the display case. You are obviously giving up a little bit of visual flair for dust proofing since brush seal isn't exactly pretty looking.
Weather stripping.
And you may have to buy new doors from home depot. They're about $400/door depending on size, but they're worth the investment. You'd probably save that much every year on climate control costs.