(Part 2) Best weatherproofing products according to redditors
We found 599 Reddit comments discussing the best weatherproofing products. We ranked the 176 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
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|mobo|$290|AORUS Z390 Master|
|:-|:-|:-|
|gpu|$700|AORUS 1080 ti Xtreme|
|ram|$360|G.Skill TridentZ RGB 4x8 3200 Mhz|
|cpu|$360|Intel i7 8700k 5Ghz OC|
|psu|$156|Corsair RM1000i Gold|
|nvme|$138|Samsung 970 EVO 500GB 2280 SSD|
|case|$150|Corsair Obsidian 500D|
|fans|$56|Corsair SP120|
|rgb fans|$110|Corsair LL120 RGB|
|cables|$105|CableMod PRO ModMesh C-Series RMi|
|240 rad|$66|EKWB EK-CoolStream SE 240 Slim Dual|
|360 rad|$90|EKWB EK-CoolStream PE 360 Dual|
|gpu wb|$165|EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Aorus RGB - Nickel|
|gpu bp|$47|EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Aorus Backplate - Nickel|
|cpu wb|$72|Phanteks Glacier C350i|
|kit|$60|Thermaltake PETG 16mm OD Bending Kit|
|pump|$100|EKWB EK-D5 PWM G2 Pump|
|res|$126|Watercool HEATKILLER Tube 200 D5|
|res top|$21|Watercool HEATKILLER Multiport Top 200|
|stand|$19|Watercool HEATKILLER Stand (Long)|
|riser|$27|Thermaltake PCI-E x16 3.0 Riser Cable 200mm|
|coolant|$56|XSPC EC Opaque White Coolant (qty 2)|
|fittings|$54|Thermaltake Pacific 90 Degree Adapters|
|fittings|$110|Thermaltake Pacific 16mm Compression Fittings (qty 2)|
|fittings|$26|Bitspower 5mm Male to Male 4-Pack|
|fittings|$20|Barrow Stop Plug 4-Pack|
|fittings|$15|Thermaltake Stop Plug 4-Pack|
|fittings|$14|XSPC Ball Valve|
|tubing|$40|Thermaltake 1000mm V-Tubler PETG 16mm 4-Pack|
|paste|$40|Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut|
|isopropyl|$18|NTE Isopropyl 99.9%|
|bottle|$11|1000ml fill bottle|
|foam|$13|1/4 inch thick foam insulation|
|heat gun|$25|Furno 300 Heat Gun|
||$3649||
||||
|mouse pad|$26|Reflex Lab XXXL 36" x 18" Mouse Pad|
|chair|$175|Techni Mobili RTA-5004-BK Rta-5004-Bk Office Chair|
|arm pads|$18|Aloudy Ergonomic Memory Foam Arm Covers|
|monitor|$900|Acer Predator x34p Ultrawide QHD G-Sync|
|stand|$100|AmazonBasics Premium Single 25lb Monitor Stand|
|cable|$18|Accell DisplayPort 1.2 Cable 10ft|
||$4886||
||||
|mouse|$50|Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum RGB|
|keyboard|$110|https://www.amazon.com/MODEL-Corsair-Gaming-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B00N2ROO2S|
||$5046||
​
Temporary solution? They sell plastic window sealing kits, like these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/DOUBLE-GLAZING-DRAUGHT-INSULATION-WINDOWS/dp/B004L9QMJO/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=window+sealing+kit&qid=1573496018&sprefix=window+sealing++k&sr=8-7
It was a rubber door strip like this
Any reason why you don't make them with polycarb lenses? Would be fairly simple to make a form for it(which you could 3d print) and then stick some of this vinyl(https://www.amazon.com/Reflective-Silver-Window-Film-13ft/dp/B00CST53LW) in order to make it look more proper. You'd just need to figure out the proper thickness for ANSI and such. It's not metal so as long as you don't heat it past the point where it starts to break down, you won't damage it with heating to bend it.
It actually can make a difference. The cool air flow will be directed towards you and less will be lost into the rest of the room. The cool air will tend to diffuse quickly with the rest of the air in your living space, so limiting it's ability to do that will increase the cooling efficiency by keeping the cool air where it's going to do the most good (directly around your body). Simple sheets will do little more than direct airflow past you and around into the rest of the room. If you want to get really fancy with it, or simply explore the practicalities of airflow, you can set up painter's tarp/dropcloth to partition your maximum cooling area off. The smaller the space, the quicker and more efficiently it will cool. If you were to set up something like a Zipwall, you'd be able to create a customized, nearly perfect little space that would allow you excellent control over climate. If you don't want to spend that much then taping up simple plastic sheeting and installing a zipper lock will do the same thing. You'd want to leave the zipper lock a bit open so that the air flowing into the space from your AC unit could exhaust out into the rest of your apartment. Basically doing this saves the coldest air for your smaller space and the rest of your apartment gets secondary cooling from the air that trickles out.
Bonus points if you set this up and hang some insulation next to the plastic sheets for privacy and extra cold times.
You can buy enough material to shrink wrap four or five windows for $15 at the hardware store. The shrink wrap attaches with double sided tape that you can remove easily with the heat of a hair dryer.
The wrap is nearly invisible if you install it right, and it forms an airtight seal. Curtains over it would add significant insulation, but this isn't strictly necessary. I've sealed venetian blinds inside some windows and they looked fine, didn't gather dust for a few months.
edit: this won't work well with all windows- some have a sill at the bottom that makes it impossible to acheive a good seal. You need to seal in all of the movable parts of the window for best results, not just the glass. It is possible to wrap over the sills, which still gives good insulation, despite not being airtight, but it looks bad.
If the garage is dry-walled you can cut 1" holes in the wall and have insulation blown in. You then patch the holes. Is the garage ceiling dry-walled? Is there a crawl space between it and the floor above? If you can fit into the space then you should find a way to lay proper insulation.
As for the garage door you should purchase a threshold that either attaches to the floor or the bottom of the door: EXAMPLE
Also look into purchasing insulation for the door. This product has great reviews: Reflectix
Just make sure some light is coming in. I just moved to a new rental and they already had blackout curtains installed. It immediately fucked with me. I felt like I was in a casino and had no concept of time. I couldn't get up for work, etc. I like the blackout curtains, but i leave the bottom of them open enough to know what time of day it is. Helped a lot.
These are really cool too (below) I've used them to block people from seeing in my house but you can still see out the windows. Apparently they also reflect UV rays and aid in keeping the house cooler.
https://www.amazon.com/Reflective-Silver-Window-Film-13ft/dp/B00CST53LW
Honestly, it's probably one of the top 5 shitiest jobs to do on an XJ. Not because it's hard but because it's so tedious.
Buy a compartmentalized project tray and a couple sheets of dot stickers.
Also a liberal application of foam tape so you don't regret being born after putting everything together.
Sure thing! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07471S61T?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
You can get double glazing film, it a plastic film that you stick to the windows frames and heat with a hair drier. It goes as tight as a drum. It's quite effective.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/DOUBLE-GLAZING-DRAUGHT-INSULATION-WINDOWS/dp/B004L9QMJO
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Draft proofing: There are many different types of tape that you can buy. It goes around doors and fills the gaps that let in the cold air.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=Draft+proofing
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Good old fashioned draft excluder that goes at the bottom of doors. I have a couple in my house for winter time.
This type of thing
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Evans-Lichfield-Meerkats-Draught-Excluder/dp/B005TQY6QY
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If you just can't get warm use heated throws on chairs you most often use.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cosi-Luxury-Electric-Heated-Blanket/dp/B07FF6B5F9
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Electric blanket: Under blankets are best, This is the type I have fitted to my bed. Instead of a small pad, it fitted like a fitted sheet and covers more of the bed. This type is more expensive but doesn't move about and heats more of the bed. Turn it on an hour before going to bed and then set it ticking over while you sleep.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Homefront-Electric-Blanket-King-Control/dp/B001IO5228
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The real trick is to wear warm clothes, You are not going to prance about is shorts and tee shirt in the depth of winter. Slippers, cardigans and woolly jumpers are the things to wear. Thick sweatpants, not the lightweight stuff you see in nightwear but the big thick ones you find in the sports section.
I've used this before. It helps keep things warm too.
I use this stuff thats for window insulation, I got it at lowes. A 25' roll of it was like $9.00.
It's basically a sheet of bubble wrap with a space blanket adhered to either side, its incredibly warm after a few seconds, and insanely light and easy to pack. The best part is it natrually curves over logs, if you want that, or on the ground, it lays flat.
This is it here, basically: http://www.amazon.com/InfraStop-Double-Bubble-Reflective-Insulation/dp/B006FLGQ56
My general 'sitting' setup is to throw some pine boughs on the ground next to a tree, throw the pad on the pine, and lay against the tree. Love it. YMMV of course!
I then stick the same pad in my hammock for extra warmth while sleeping. The air bubbles keep dead air space in there, and its super warm.
I have one of these currently over my maker select and it makes a great frame for an enclosure. I basically cut 3 pieces of blue foam insulation, the kind you get in sheets at home depot, that fit between the legs and covered the 4th with plexi-glass. I used foam weather stripping, like this stuff, to gasket the panels and stuck LED strip lighting to the top. I feed the filament in through a length of ptfe tubing inserted at the top of one of the side panels foam gasket. I can take some pictures if you want to see exactly what I mean.
There's Reflectix: https://www.amazon.com/InfraStop-Double-Bubble-Reflective-Insulation/dp/B006FLGQ56
And Down Comforters: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Canada-s-Best-Heavy-Weight-Down-Alternative-Bedding-Comforter/34075006
The Reflectix can be cut to fit inside the window (use newspaper to create a pattern) and spray painted black to give the illusion of tinted windows.
Alternatively, it can just be cut into one big rectangle and attached over the windows with velcro strips. (Sew the velcro to the reflectix for extra hold)
Staying under the covers will keep you warm. Get yourself a nice down blanket for the lightest/warmest solution to sleeping in the cold.
Had a similar apartment in Austin some time back. They don't really insulate those garages too much, so the first thing to do is insulate the garage door as much as you can. I used stuff like this in the past:
https://www.amazon.com/Atlas-EPS-Matador-Insulation-Designed/dp/B008OPLHVE/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=Garage+Door+Insulation&qid=1562622712&s=gateway&sr=8-4
Now, with that sealed up some more, the next recommendation makes sense. Get one of those rolling A/C units like this:
https://www.amazon.com/rolling-air-conditioner/s?k=rolling+air+conditioner
And I'd get some wood/ply to clamp into the bottom 6" of the garage door with a duct exit hole for the exhaust vent.
The only other reco - it will take a LOOOONG time to cool down from 140 to 80 out there, so if you can set a timer to cool it a few hours before your work time that would make it a lot more bearable.
it SUCKS to detail a car and drip salt water on it. Good luck.
Yeah, as long as the rail isn’t bent when the door is shut all the way. Otherwise maybe try this guy. Lowe’s sells it too, at least in my area.
It is extremely effective, but not 100% dust proof. and it isn't difficult at all. You can purchase weather stripping on Amazon for a few bucks and it takes a couple minutes to just stick it to the sides.
The 16ft length is able to line 1 detolf with about 3-4 feet left over.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077P56W3W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use this bubble-foil stuff in my bus windows, it works well. Two layers works better than one.
If you can't afford the solar mylar bubble stuff, see also: http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects/Conservation/bubblewrap.htm
Something like this
Indoor insulator film. It sticks on your window and blocks the draft. < $7 on amazon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AXXCUC/
I'm not sure if it's worth the time, money, and effort to you, but I use this method for creating a lot of custom stuff. Create your topography using expanding spray foam: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YX97K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_36M6yb5P3ZPP4 . You might be able to use 2 part urethane, but I don't have any experience with it. Then shape it to your desired shape using a serrated knife/saw* and really course sand paper (40-80 grit) works really well. At this point you may want to fill in some of the really big bubble holes if you have any, a little more foam will do the trick. After you have your desired shape use fiberglass and epoxy resin (regular fiberglass resin is polyester based and will eat the foam) to cover and strengthen your design. Some sanding and body filler will smooth it all out. Then paint it.
Do this all in a well ventilated area. Sanding fiberglass will cause fiberglass dust, it's not good for your lungs and irritates most people's skin like crazy, so wear PPE. Make sure you give it all plenty of time to cure before working it, especially if you lay the foam down nice and thick.
In any case, good luck.
You'd honestly just be fine with the cheaper $10-15 stuff you can get at home depot / lowes.
I used this. Cut the strip in down the middle since you don't need it double wide.
Didn't use it for screen glare but this stuff definitely blocks some sun https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KKNZG6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1. It's a pain in the ass to put on but it can be done in under an hour.
Two more door pro-tips:
Use foam tape like this to seal the gap between the door and doorframe.
This, combined with a draft sock will keep the dank vapors on the correct side of the door.
Bonus benefit: helps keep weird odors & noises out of your space.
I used the ones this guy suggested in the video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1xhHiOOq4ig
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-E-O-3-8-in-X-3-16-in-X-10-ft-Black-High-Density-Rubber-Foam-Weatherstrip-Tape-R338H/100197882
https://www.amazon.com/Self-Adhesive-Weatherstrip-Windows-Doors-16-5ft/dp/B077P56W3W/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=weatherseal+pile&qid=1556899807&s=gateway&sr=8-7-spell
thanks for the tips! So maybe buy something more like this? I was also debating on buying a teepee tent so it makes it easier to wrap the the insulation around as I could basically just uncoil the role.
Sure... you basically have to measure your window first, and then head down to Home Hardware or Castle or Canada Tire to find one that fits.
Here's an example: https://www.amazon.ca/3M-2120W-6-Indoor-Window-Insulator/dp/B000AXXCUC/ref=asc_df_B000AXXCUC/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=292938317187&amp;hvpos=1o5&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=4973679086134387350&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=c&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9001599&amp;hvtargid=pla-368263637696&amp;psc=1
Why was your a/c even ON in May? It was cold. That's your problem right there.
Anyway, since it was much colder outside, your a/c wouldn't have had to work anywhere nearly as hard/be on as much.
What temperature is your unit at? And do you get afternoon sun? You might put some reflective window film over part of the windows for the summer if you get afternoon sun. Like this stuff : https://www.amazon.com/Reflective-Silver-Window-Film-13ft/dp/B00CST53LW
But if you're leaving next year you probably won't save enough to make it worthwhile. Just turn the thermostat up a few degrees.
I prefer this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002YX97K
Yup, here it is.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JDJQ8E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071R4BCHQ
https://www.homedepot.com/p/205511206
Hey, yea I was able to seal it up. Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures during the process.
But, I essentially followed all of the suggestions in here.
I removed the face plate on the inside wall. Put a piece of insulation in the slot. I had to cut it to size and pull it up the slot from the outside. Sprayed some minimal expansion foam around the edges of the metal slot. Took off the outside faceplate and put this insulating wrap over the slot. Reattached the outside faceplate and superglued it shut.
Used this drywall patch kit to fix the inside. I had to get creative with mounting the included piece of sheetrock because the metal slot in the wall didn't leave any room to mount the wood blocks to the surrounding drywall. Spackled, sanded, spackled, sanded, (rinse repeat until smooth), and painted.
I didn't color match my paint well enough but otherwise its a really smooth finish and I still like the old nostalgic look of the outside faceplate. The true test will come in the winter to see if it's insulated well enough.
Get a cheap thermo gun and test the walls, ceiling, and door seals for temp spikes. This will reveal air leaks and problem areas. I suspect your metal garage door is the biggest culprit of heat loss. This winter I installed an [insulation kit] (http://www.amazon.com/Atlas-EPS-S-GDIK001-Insulation-Universal/dp/B008OPLHVE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1398097268&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=garage+door+insulation+panels) on my garage door and it kept my garage a few degrees warmer. I'd imagine this would help block out the Texas summer heat too.
I used this tint from amazon - Gila Heat Control Platinum Adhesive Residential DIY Window Film Sun Blocking Glare Reduction 4ft x 15ft (48in x 180in) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KKNZG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fLzcBbMNE64B1
There is definitely a learning curve my last half of windows look much better than the first half, but if you go down this route and run into questions let me know.
I also bought an LCD & digitizer unit off eBay. My procedure is the exact one outlined in this video.
/u/phoenixpants is right - After I was done repairing the tablet, I realized that I could have saved myself a lot of time and frustration by buying a frame to go along with the screen assembly. Scraping the glass off the old frame was easily the most challenging and time consuming part of the entire process and I ended up cutting myself by accident. Also, try to get some adhesive strips included with the LCD - I ended up using the adhesive from this product as a substitute (available at Home Depot).
I'm not sure why you were getting sporadic touches - it's possible that the hardware you bought was intermittent. Also, be sure that all the connections on the motherboard (ribbon cables, connectors, etc) are properly lined up because one small mistake will render the device unusable. Good luck!
EDIT: You wouldn't need the adhesive strips if you buy the frame attached to the LCD assembly
Do you have link to the low-e film? Google only provides me with film that keeps heat out... I want keep to come in!
edit: found it. sounds like you can install one way for heat, and another for cold. may try this as a cheap solution. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KKNZG6/ref=twister_B00433SIO0
What I did to prevent this kind of issues was to attach some foam tape (something like that https://www.amazon.com/Rubber-Weatherseal-Stick-Weather-Strip/dp/B000BQMMVI ) on the side near the lenses. In this way the glasses can't touch the lenses.
Would it be enough to repurpose it as insulation? Kind of like this stuff:
InfraStop 48" X 25' Double Bubble Reflective Foil Insulation https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006FLGQ56/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yQrRDbXNXN3PQ
One thing you might consider, if you live in an apartment with single paned windows, is to get Frost King window kits. You can get them at Lowe's/Home Depot and you use to kit to effectively create double paned windows where, before, there was only a single pane. It's extremely effective at helping keep your place cool/hot as desired and even helps with sound insulation.
I lived at many a place on southside with window frames that had shifted and that had single paned windows that let wind and sound through like a leaky bucket. These kits helped a lot. Just note that you'll have to re-apply every 9-12 months as the tape loses its stickey-ness.
>The east and west exposures of our house have very large windows. On the main floor both east and west exposures have windows that are essentially wall to wall and floor to ceiling. The second floor has another bank of big windows facing west as well.
You would do well with solar/IR reflective tinting. Its amazing how much heat is reflected back. We did one window last year and are DEFINITELY doing all the south facing now. It still allows plenty of visible light through.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000KKNZG6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Also, your winter furnace setup working good does not always = AC unit working the same way. Getting rid of heat in a house is not the same as keeping heat in the house. There are heat emanating bodies and devices that assist in the winter and detract in the summer.
It’s life changing for New York rentals with old windows. check it out
Also killing your wallet is that visible gap in the weatherstripping. Get yourself one o' these bad boys and save some more money for your other dope hobbies. https://www.amazon.com/Duck-1402601-Double-Complete-2-Count/dp/B0040JH2AI/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498621538&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=door+gap+sealer
I'm not a shill, just an efficiency fanatic.
That looks like spray in foam insulation.
https://greenappleinsulation.com/what-is-spf-spray-foam-insulation/
Depending on if it's closed or open cell, it can have a shiny surface, or a rough surface.
https://www.amazon.com/GREAT-STUFF-Window-Insulating-Sealant/dp/B0002YX97K
What about cutting some foam to fit between the window and the enclosure? Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Weather-Stripping-Windows-Adhesive-Insulation/dp/B071R4BCHQ
Once it gets close to Christmas, just go to Butch McGuire's and wait for the snow to melt.
Also, to ensure you won't get kicked in the perineum by your first cold month utility bill - spend a few dollars on some rolls/packages of plastic that you can put over all the windows. You're not gonna be opening them very much if at all, and the pocket of air they creates a buffer that really cuts down on draft and some of the heat loss.
Something like this -
https://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-V73-9H-42-Inch/dp/B000AXSVJ4/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1539720013&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=insulation+plastic
Also consider getting some of those rubber/plastic seals for exterior doors.
https://www.amazon.com/Efficient-Stopper-soundproofing-Weather-Stripping/dp/B078N2TV7T/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1539720123&amp;sr=8-14&amp;keywords=door+gasket
http://www.amazon.co.uk/DOUBLE-GLAZING-DRAUGHT-INSULATION-WINDOWS/dp/B004L9QMJO
http://www.amazon.co.uk/DeLonghi-Dragon-4-TRD4-0820T-Radiator/dp/B00CA1T07G/ref=sr_1_5
I have a hollowcore door for my bedroom, and I have a habit of getting rather loud while gaming at night. What would be the best way to go about making my room a little more soundproof? The walls aren't a big deal as there's a bathroom against the main wall of my room, so I'm just going to focus on the door. My current thoughts are buying something along the lines of [this] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B3Y6QDG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dcXyzbR9RSZYA) on and around the door itself, and one of [these] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040JH2AI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5eXyzb32QAM17) to fill the gap under the door, but would like some advice on it.
The humming noise is likely due to vibration in the fan itself. Is that an actual pic of the fan? If he is willing to let you mess around with it, I’d recommend applying some type of foam weatherstripping to the fan housing anywhere it is in direct contact with the ceiling or floor joists.
Like this Foam
Thanks for the reply. I guess my post was just looking for [something like this]
(http://www.amazon.com/3M-Outdoor-Window-Insulator-2-Window/dp/B0045ZT17Y) as far as what I meany by sealing.
But figuring out why the window is leaking like it is obviously needs to be solved. I've read that by design these windows will have water in the track which would only be a problem if winds are strong enough to stop water from draining out. I don't know what what the drain holes look like. Do I need to remove pieces of the window to properly access them?
This window looks like this. Not 100% sure of the brand, the window is about 16" tall, it's fairly small.
It would probably be okay. I'm having a bit of a hard time understanding what you are wanting to do with it. Are you going to cut a hole in the cooler for the sous vide machine and are wanting to create a seal around that whole? The rest of the cooler should already be well insulated, including the hinges area.
Anyway, I would probably use something like this Weather Striping it has good insulation properties and will compress and create a good seal. The temperature range might be a bit of a problem on higher heat longer cooks. I've never used it in a sous vide project, but I've used this sort of foam tape in a lot of other DIY projects and my experience is that it will soften at the higher temps but won't melt unless it gets really hot.
My mining room in the basement stays cold af. I keep the small window open and the door closed. I use one of those temporary door sealers to keep the cold air in the room and not in the rest of my basement. My 1080 Tis run full blast and never get over about 60 degrees.
Oh, sure, sorry. It's these guys:
Matador Garage Door Insulation Kit, Designed for 7 Foot Tall Door up to 9 Feet Wide https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008OPLHVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XHBXAbB2WG63C
They thing I like about these vs foam board is these are created did you can flex them so they go in super easily.
And yeah, the one side is plastic, or something similar. Think it's just there to protect the foam a bit.
Each panel has insulation value of R4.8
I'm sorry to hear about your troubles.
Regarding the noise issue. Are you working in a separate room or do you have to work in a room where others are around? If it is a separate room but the noise is still coming through, you may want to consider getting some stripping (https://www.amazon.com/Efficient-stopper-soundproofing-weather-stripping/dp/B078N2TV7T/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521143043&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=soundproofing) to put at the bottom/tops of your doors to help keep out noise. There are also soundproofing foam panels, curtains and quilts that you can purchase as temporary solutions if you need to cover a larger area.
I know you don't have a lot of funds but if you're stuck between spending $10-100 (check ebay and amazon) to do some minor soundproofing versus getting fired.. that may be an option for you. Another option is to look into the cheapest and highest quality noise cancelling microphone (headset). I used to do work from home technical support and they had a 0 tolerance noise policy so I understand the pressure you may be under.
I use this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/GREAT-STUFF-Window-Insulating-Sealant/dp/B0002YX97K
What tape are you referring to?
Here ya go OP: Solution to the bumps!
I would try something like this. Put this on the back of the plate then tight it down.
https://www.amazon.com/Weather-Stripping-Windows-Adhesive-Insulation/dp/B071R4BCHQ