Best 3d printer motors according to redditors
We found 89 Reddit comments discussing the best 3d printer motors. We ranked the 26 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 89 Reddit comments discussing the best 3d printer motors. We ranked the 26 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
if you can print petg already with your old mendel I would replace / upgrade a few stock things that could save you some troubleshooting / a rebuild later on like
this y axis endstop and definitely this much improved y axis belt tensioner and possibly these y axis bearing holders as the default bearing mounting with the u bolts can very easily deform your bearings and cause some catches / crashes on the y axis. For the x axis specifically I've found this tensioner to be really helpful at giving me the initial play to tighten the x axis belt enough later on.
On the noise front, you might consider using something like these to help you get some isolation as the stock feet are very hard and transmit easily. Also if you don't mind the additional purchases I can highly recommend some stepper dampeners like these, as they'll bring down the motor noise quite a bit and it's easy to install on your initial build. Note: you will have a problem using the x axis tensioner and a stepper dampener on your x axis with the default motor, as the shaft will not be long enough to get the pulley in line with the belt. If you want both, you can use , you can install a kysan stepper motor instead which will give you enough axle to work with with the added bonus of a bit more holding torque and cooler running.
Sorry if its not really a response to your original questions I just figured it would have personally saved me a lot of rebuild time if I had a printer before getting my mk3 and knew about the upgrades I would eventually get.
I got you - I have had this same issue. I work from home and there is nothing like a 3d printer going off in the background while you are presenting in a conference call. I also have the Ender 3 pro, here is how I solved the noise.
Note: 4 things to know before venturing off in this solution. This may save you some reading.
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1st: You will need to know how to take things apart and put them back together.
2nd: You will need to print a few parts (listed below)
3rd: Cost will run ~$25 - $50 for parts ( listed below, some are optional), about $125 for the added enclosure to do it the correct way.
4th: There are prolly other solutions like getting a better board, but I like to stay true to the oem setup and tinkering with what I have.
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Here is what you will need:
1st Dampeners: $15 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DNT72SF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1
-as you are going to be removing the stepper motor away from the rails which help cool, you will need a new way to help cool the motor such as heatsinks. (Below)
- You will prolly only use 2 of the 3. 1 on the Y axis and one on the X axis. Dont really need one for the zrod as it don't really put out a lot of noise when printing.
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2nd Heatsinks: $8 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KWVGGGK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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3rd X axis stepper motor (42-34 is the size): (Optional) $ 17 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GDBMT1D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- I say Optional as you can print the bracket to make the stock stepper motor work but it fully replaces the motor mount plate Found here : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3271077 . I was just not sure how that would hold up to wear and tare as I was new to printing at the time and did not care to take the whole motor plate section and wheels apart.
-But if you want to skip printing the plate and the tare down/reassemble, I would order the stepper motor and 20 tooth sprocket. (below )
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4th Sprockets (20 Teeth) : (Optional, see 3rd item on list) $ 8 -https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019GICCMA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- sadly you can only get a 5 pack.
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5th Y Damper Bracket: Free - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3240449
- This moves the orientation of the motor to make up for the extra 10mm or so from the dampener.
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6th Small bed leveling nut wheel (not sure what to call it): Free , Print it.
- The back left wheel will hit the heatsink/motor after you add the dampener and causes the bed to not extend all the way back. I had to go on tinkercad and make my own mini nutwheel. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3742690
- This will make it a bit harder to level the bed as it is smaller and harder to turn, but if you have the yellow springs installed, you should not have to level your bed often =p
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7th - Lack Enclosure ~ $125 for me anyway Tables are around $8 and the plexy was around $50, and a full spool of filament ~$22, large pack of M12 screws $8
I got 3 tables, stacked them on top of each other, Printed my own feet/extensions to make sure it was the correct height (Solid 20" tall is what I went with) and then I went to my local Lowes and picked up 4 sheets of 3mm plexy. Cut my self and slapped it all together. This really finished off most of the noise for me, the only noise you will really hear after the dampeners is the fans. =(. I still hear the fans with an enclosure but its quite subtitle. I may upgrade to the much talked about Nactua silent fan with the buck converter to make it a 24/12 volt fan.
- You will need to also move the PSU out of the enclosure as this will help with the over heating/wear and tare. I printed some bracket ( like this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3349588 ) to hold it to the underside of the 2nd shelf, and drilled a hole through to the printer where I could reconnect the printer and psu.
- This also helped with the fan noise from the PSU, I was really shocked on how well it worked. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3659432
- I also drilled a hole from the USB port down though to run my USB to and from Printer/octopi .
Hopefully this helps - hit me up if you have any questions . There is a lot of info here but it really helped bring down the noise. I would say the sound went from level 10 down to 3 or 4.
- I can upload my design for the Enclosure if needed, I am not fully sold on my design for the door section..
When I get around to it, I will upload pics of my setup =p
-shortliv3d
This is where I ordered them: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WG3SZQ
But they seem to be sold by so many other names that you could order anything on Amazon that shares that product image, if you find it cheaper.
If you choose to use a stepper, I would recommend the Nema 17. This is great for smaller-scale projects like a small 3-D printer, fair amount of torque but low speeds. If you main concern is controlling these motors to a precise angle but you aren't too concerned with high speed, this would be a good choice. All the specs are given in that link. A servo is better used in an application where you just want it to be either ON or OFF. If this is a mobile robot, like a little car or crawler, I would go with the servo, here is my recommended product, cheap and strong. Keep in mind that you will also need a driver to run either of these motors. Search Arduino motor sheild/hat/driver for that.
I’ve been very happy with this motor for Z. The other one on this listing is just a different color.
Here's my setup: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2167304
I think you're on the right track (3 screws, 1 motor). My setup is 1.875:1 gearing (30T on screws to 16T on motor) and there's plenty of torque with these motors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QEYADRQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Extruder: get a microswiss hotend for it will be able to print flexible and other materials.
Parts cooling: Upgrade to the petsfang 5015 mod for better print cooling.
Auto bed leveling: Get the TH3D ezabl sensor for great bed leveling.
Other mods: motor dampers to reduce noise and vibration
To smoothers to smooth prints
Raspberry pi for octoprint
All metal extruder
Capricorn tubing
Hope I could help 😀
Links:
micro swiss hotend
petsfang part
ezabl sensor
motor dampers
tl smoothers
octoprint link
all metal extuder
capricorn tubing
Also this is what my petsfang with sensor looks like. https://i.imgur.com/sQahB69.jpg
> NEMA 17
https://www.amazon.com/Kysan-1124090-NEMA17-Stepper-Motor/dp/B00IEVE4MC
Hot end
extruder
controll board
stepper drivers
stepper motors
I used the repetier firmware configuration tool to get my firmware image.
https://www.amazon.com/Redrex-Integrated-Stepper-Upgrading-Printers/dp/B01DVD87Q6
In my experience this problem is caused by electrical noise in the stepper motors, causing slight, regular vibrations that are transferred to the print and manifest as these odd surface waves. I have the same PowerSpec printer, with the same Microswiss all-metal replacement hotend. The only thing I don't have is the Microswiss extruder lever but I don't believe that is a factor in this situation. No matter how well everything was dialed in, my prints suffered from this problem. The only way to minimize (not eliminate) the problem was to print at 10mm/s which was not an acceptable solution for me.
I solved this issue by installing TL smoother boards in-line with the X, Y, and extruder stepper motors. You will definitely see many opinions on smoother boards here and elsewhere, ranging from "100% fix my issues" to "waste of money, fix the REAL issue", which I think are influenced by different printer models, patience levels, and the many other variables that can affect 3D printing quality. In my case, the TL smoother boards fixed 90% of my issues, the other 10% was fixed by printing and installing the Z-brace mod you see on most of our Wanhao/Monoprice/PowerSpec printers. Coupled with limiting print speeds to 50 mm/s or below, I have had very good results.
Thingiverse link for Z-brace mod for I3 Plus: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1653631
I also printed the Dii Cooler in PETG and replaced the stock cooler with one of those 24V "squirrel cage" fans, which provided much better cooling for all sides of my prints. Before that it really only cooled the front of prints, leaving the sides and especially the rear of prints looking pretty bad.
Thingiverse link for Dii Cooler for i3 Plus: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1025471
Also, I initially tried installing one of the smoother boards on my Z stepper motor, rather than the extruder but this made Z-axis movements erratic and ruined my test prints. After moving the smoother board to the extruder I have had much success. Some people say smoother boards also reduce stepper motor noise but I can't tell the difference.
Amazon listing for the 3-pack of TL smoother boards I purchased ($11 USD):
https://amazon.com/gp/product/B071WG3SZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'll just put them right here. I think these are essential upgrades for the ender 3
[Metal extruder feeder] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TWQFT7J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gq8SDbCHX88J8)
[TL smoothers] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071WG3SZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ms8SDbA5EWY3W)
[PTFE tube and fittings] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PS3NH82/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ls8SDb794MJ3Q)
Just replace it. the stepper is woefully under powered. I use a flexion (which needs more torque) and was constantly stalling the stepper and eventually it puke its guts and died.
upgraded to a full 1.2amp stepper and WOW the improvement is spectacular. zero issues. I no longer have to "finely tune" the cam on the flexion to balance between slippage and stalling.
I can crank it down and just GO.
get the $14 stepper on amazon. you will need to "reverse" the center 2 wires on teh wanhao/makerselect plug going to the extruder stepper.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015SS3Y7O
I have an even stronger one but I need to "wire" it and have not gotten around to doing it yet as the one linked above is working fine so far.
I haven't pulled the trigger on this myself, but I think shortly enough I will.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0776F4BKH/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3HCJ70Z0RHBT6&psc=1
Here's the tutorial on how to install it:
https://hackaday.io/project/14823-monoprice-select-mini-maximum-3d-printer-mods/log/55525-upgrade-the-z-axis-with-a-nema17-stepper-and-tr8x8-leadscrew
I bought this stepper motor and followed the HackaDay guide to replace my stepper motor. My original one was slightly bent and was causing z banding. As it shows in the video, when I try to tell the printer to raise or lower on the Z axis, it just makes a thunk-like noise and barely moves. The video shows me using the controls to move the motor three time (twice “up”, once “down”). I have also tried just sending g code with Ponterface.
I unfortunately didn’t test out the motor before cutting it down to size and installing it, but does this look like a bad motor or have I messed up something? I hooked up the original motor and it spins just fine.
I ordered all of it on amazon. I got the dotbit bmg clone, although the triangle labs was recommended more, and the pancake stepper from stepper online via amazon. The direct drive kit I got was the basaraba dd upgrade kit. To attach a bmg style extruder to this kit, you’ll need a printed or machined adapter. I managed to have a connection and got someone to machine a mount for mine specifically
Stepper: STEPPERONLINE Nema 17 Bipolar Stepper Motor 0.7A 13Ncm (18.4oz.in) 17HS10-0704S https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LESPDCQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aeAWDbHDJ8A49
Bmg clone:
3D Printer Bowden Extruder,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P6X7DKL?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Ender 3 Direct Drive Upgrade Kit, Compatible with Creality Ender 3 & Ender 3 Pro, no firmware Modification Needed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P9S9KNC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rfAWDbZQWTYK1
It’s important to put the spacer in this dd kit in between the motor and bmg clone as the motor shaft will push against the outer shell of the extruder, and cause a lot of issues.
I also am using a microswiss hotend
Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789V2D7C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I'm going to do the install again on my other Ender next week and I'll fully document it then. Things I learned along the way:
First you'll want to bookmark this page. Pretty much everything you need to wire and configure the firmware is there.
The Einsy uses Molex 9402, 03, and 04 connectors for all of the stepper motor, fan, thermistor, and end stop connectors. While it's possible to cut the keys off of the stock connectors and the stepper motor connectors will fit, I prefer to have the polarized latching connectors, so reterminated all of them. If you order the board with the hardware kit from Ultimachine it includes connectors and pins, but I was glad I went ahead and ordered more pins and connectors from Amazon as it took me a little while to get the crimps correct and I ruined most of the pins.
Note also that the JST connectors that plug into the end stops and thermistors have a much shorter barrel than the Molex ones and I had to get a different crimping tool for those. I also got an assortment of ferrules and the crimping tool for those as I really hate running bare wires into screw terminals and I don't like using spade lugs either if there is more than one connection to a terminal. Ferrules are much better than bare wire and the connections last years longer than a bare wire. My bed heater connection was scorched because the wire wasn't inserted all the way into the connector and most of the strands had broken off leaving a high resistance connection.
Both fan connections are 5V PWM. You can get to 24V on the exp 3 or J 19 if you just want the hot end fan to be on all the time, but I went ahead and got Noctua 5v PWM fans. I printed the simplest adapter possible to convert the centrifugal part fan to axial and wired both fans to the fan connections. Still having issues getting the hot end fan to turn off and on based on the hot end temperature, but that's the project for tonight. Still doing test prints, but so far it looks like the part fan is doing ok, but I have a new hot end mount that has dual part fans printed that I'll get on this weekend.
I had a terrible time getting sensorless homing working and couldn't get the mostors to work at all with them set to microstep values set higher then 4 on the X and Y axis. I had always planned on upgrading the extruder stepper to one of the high torque Moon's steppers, but I ended up upgrading them all as I couldn't find out what the specs for the stock motors were. The X, Y, and extruder motors were easy as they weren't size constrained, but the Z axis can't be more than 34mm tall to fit in the stock mount. I ended up using this motor for the Z axis and it's working very well.
The stock stepper motors may or may not have pressed on gears. My Y motor did, but the X did not. I just ordered more gears as I wouldn't have trusted the gear even if I managed to get it off without damaging it. Since the new motors for X and Y had a slightly longer shaft, it was easier to get them adjusted with the grub screw type gear.
After I got the steppers replaced, I still couldn't get the motors to work until I boosted the motor current from the 800mA default to 820mA. After that 16x microstepping, stealthchop, and sensorless homing started working reliably. It could be that the stock motors may have worked if I had done the same with them. I'll find out next week when I do the next one. I have all new Moon's steppers already purchased for it though so I'm not going to spend a lot of time messing with the stock motors.
The stock stepper motor and end stop cables where solid black ribbon cables. No color coding at all. I decided to replace them rather than try to trace the wires. After I got the cables made I discovered the fancy Moon's stepper had a different pinout from the rest and had to fix that one.
Stock motherboard had the SD card reader mounted on it and I prefer to print from SD for anything that takes more than 8 or so hours, so I got the RepRap full graphics LCD. It was only $11 and it has a full size SD slot. Worked fine as soon as I cut the key off of the EXP connector and reversed it. Be careful doing that, I nicked the ribbon cable and ruined one of them.
Stock firmware image on the Einsy came up with a Mintemp error. Most likely it was using the wrong thermistor type. I went with the vanilla 1.1.9 bugfix version of Marlin as a base with the Ender 3 default configuration files loaded. There is a link to a preconfigured 1.1.5 Marlin in the wiki, but it doesn't have Ender 3 example configuration files. I didn't really look at it as the difference in configuration is quite different from the 1.1.9 version. You'll need to add a link to the board manager repository, but that and the libraries you need are fully described on the wiki.
Haven't gotten interpolation to 256 steps working yet and it doesn't work at all with stealthchop disabled. Motors start moving 4 times as far as they should in either case. Homing is done in spreadcycle mode, but I guess homing just needs to move until it stops, so maybe it's still trying to go 4 times too far, it just doesn't matter.
BLTouch wiring is almost exactly as the Wiki documents and worked perfectly on the first try. Only thing incorrect was the 1.1.9 bugfix default for pins_EINSYRAMBO.h already has the correct mapping for the z end stop and probe pins when bltouch is enabled. You don't need to change that.
I built Marlin many times and update it through octoprint. Until I got ABL working and needed to save the mesh, I put M502 and M500 commands in the script that octoprint runs after the firmware is loaded. That way I knew that all of the firmware changes I made were always applied when I loaded a new image. Make sure and enable the m122 TMC Debug option. It's the quickest way to verify how the drivers are set up.
I've enabled pretty much all of the bells and whistles in Marlin and I'm only using 63% of the code space. May try enabling Unified Bed Levelling tonight.
I also disabled the option that prevents cold extrusion with M302 while I was debugging the extruder motor. I just left the bowden tube off of the extruder until I get the motor calibrated.
That's pretty much everything that I can think of off hand. When I do it again I'll probably remember other things.
Last I checked, robotdigg had them. Just looked again, don't see any immediately.
Pusa mk3 sure has some nice 4-start integral leadscrews, maybe you can order some from prusa at a markup?
Edit-
No word on quality, but there's plenty on Amazon, fwiw.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DVD87Q6
Double edit- I didn't read as well as I should have, apologies.
Yeah, I use this one on my extruder: https://www.amazon.com/FYSETC-Printer-Extruder-Makerbot-Creality/dp/B07GDBMT1D/ref=sr_1_1?fst=as%3Aoff&qid=1557351862&refinements=p_89%3AFYSETC&rnid=2528832011&s=industrial&sr=1-1
No issues at all, plug and play.
TL-Smoothers allegedy reduce salmon skinning. Smooths out travel on axes & reduces unwanted patterning.
LINK: https://www.amazon.com/SIQUK-Smoother-Accessories-Elimination-Clipping/dp/B07MCC1FL3/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=tl+smoother&qid=1564773319&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
Hotend boots are silicone replacements for the kapton tape & insulation wrapped around the stock hotend. reduces the chances of filament binding to the hotend casing around the nozzle.
LINK: https://www.amazon.com/Creality-3D-Silicone-Extruder-Insulation/dp/B07JPGT2GD/ref=sr_1_8?crid=3TU1TOGLV2IBV&keywords=silicone+hotend+cover&qid=1564773381&s=gateway&sprefix=silicone+hotend%2Caps%2C227&sr=8-8
you're quite welcome!
The motors I bought were these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PNEQI7W but any nema17 sized steppers that have at least 64OzIn(45Ncm) of torque will do.
the advantages of the 32bit controllers are pretty numerous, but here's the pros and cons as I see them.
Pros: faster movement- they can generate movement commands much faster than the 8 bit ones. More powerful -they can calculate the geometries easier, leaving capacity available for other things. on the smoothieboard, for example, it can be hooked up to your home internet, and serve a local webpage, thus running stand-alone. Additionally the 32bit controllers don't need to be flashed with new firmware to change settings. they have a config file on the sd card that you can update, or for the more common settings, via several g-code commands. The 32 bit controllers aren't as common, so the information available isn't splintered or contradictory, like it can be for the 8 bit controllers. the guys on smoothieboard's IRC channel are very helpful, although a bit terse.
Cons: Some of the features of the 8 bit processor's firmwares that I like are not implemented, firmware that prevents you from accidentally telling your printer to move in a fashion that it can't (out of bounds movement) and an over-temperature cut-out (marlin firmware will cut every thing if the hot end is measured to exceed a certain temperature. the 32 bit controllers aren't as common, so there aren't as many sources of info or help available, however see the pro about info
the build volume if you use the arm length recommended is something like 120mm diameter by 260mm tall. I suggest, if you get their kossel, to make your carbon-fiber tubes 250mm long instead of the suggested 180mm. this gives you total arm lengths of about 290, which results in a build volume of about 210mm by 200mm.
Yep! I bought these ones
this is the motor i bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LESPDCQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Maybe your extruder motor overheating and shutting down.
https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/i3/topic:4441
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/wanhao-printer-3d/HlGk99Hm7e8%5B1-25%5D
I was having the same issues and instead of opening my printer and tuning it to work with the lower spec motor I replaced the extruder stepper motor with this one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015SS3Y7O
I'm not saying that is for sure your problem but it looks like the same thing that was happening to me.
The motor is a Nema 17 with 63.7 oz-in of hold torque.
The drive controller doesn't seem like it has the ability to do micro stepping which I didn't see as a problem because the resolution of it is more then i really need already.
Links to both that i got from amazon below.
The application is raising a skylight, which involves the motor turning a hook which grabs the loop to open the skylight.
As far as I can tell it doesn't have to do with resonance but whenever its not actually moving a step its losing all current. This could be my problem as the drive started to over heat when it was not moving. So at the end of the move I disable the driver because the window doesn't need to be held open.
Motor:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PNEQI7W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Driver:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014KMHSW6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's a rebrand of the Wanhao Duplicator I3 if that helps at all. You might be able to find it under that name.
Edit: After a little Google fu it seems that if you swap the middle two wires on the connetor this one works as an extruder motor quite well for your printer.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015SS3Y7O/
Alright, I have a motor shield but I have no idea how to use it. Here is the motor shield I have, and here is the stepper motor I have. Is it possible to use this stepper motor with this shield?
Yep - right off of Amazon.
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Stepper Dampers and TL-Smoothers.
Ya man... your gonna dig it. And jams with high temperature filament will be a thing of the past.... You should go ahead and run linear advance with PETG once just so you get an effect of how much more torque you will be wielding after doing this. Here is the stepper https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PNEQI7W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
No, but if you are going through the hassle of doing the mod it would be better to use a good quality stepper with the integrated screw since they are very 'wobble free' due to the direct connection. If you dont currently have a stepper and 8MM lead screw collecting dust it makes a lot of sense to drop $30-40 for a good quality stepper with a screw that will only require trimming for installation. Keeps it simpler.
FWIW, this option is far superior to the cheaper on that is commonly used, they look similar but they are not. The SainSmart unit at $40 has a much more precise screw and better micro-stepping or just better tolerances in general than the Anycubic option at $30. I sent 2 of the Anycubic steppers back, both were sloppy, but the SainSmart has been perfect. It might just be luck of the draw but IMO it is worth another $10 to not gamble.
Good one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JTSEFQY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Not as good one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019TRKAPO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It is also worth noting that both of these steppers are wired differently. Easy enough to sort the pairs with a multi meter. Google it if you are not familiar.
I used one of these. NEMA 17 stepper motors come in several standard lengths and 60mm is the largest. For comparison, I believe the one that came with the tornado on the Y-axis is 48mm.
Here's one on Amazon, there should be plenty more there.
I should probably do this regardless for my X, Z, and extruder motors but I upgraded the Y motor to one of these and am not entirely sure what the voltage should be for it. Spec sheet says 3.6, which seems insanely high if the stock X and Z motors should be at 0.94... Right now, everything seems to be working correctly but I still get the same layer shift issue as OP if I print above 50mm/s.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MCC1FL3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
this one's amazing. I've been using it as the extruder motor on both my 3D printers. Great torque, always runs cool. I'd recommend it. Only $15!
This was a few dollars more than a print cartridge. The total cost was $75:
Visually this looks like it https://www.amazon.com/Iverntech-Stepper-Integrated-Printers-Machine/dp/B07Q2RR6SC/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1?keywords=resin+printer+lead+screw+motor&qid=1557223923&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmrnull
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However the pitch is "1mm", but it has " 2 starts ". Not sure if that means pitch is actually 2mm.
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And if you know of an Amazon seller who has this that would be the simplest solution for me.
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Thanks.
Not sure if you found what you wanted. There are pre-crimped wire sets. Though it’s hard to find the one with the middle wires swapped.
I just bought these. You do need to swap the green and black wires on the 6 pin side.
https://www.amazon.com/Magic-Shell-Terminal-Connector-Printer/dp/B07MG376X6/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?keywords=stepper%2Bmotor%2Bcable&qid=1558219612&s=gateway&sr=8-17&th=1&psc=1#
Buy, These are the ones that i used. I put them on the extruder, X and Y axis motors. The X and Y i put inside the base of my monoprice maker select plus and the extruder one i put on top near the extruder itself. You just need to connect the cable from the board to it and then the other side to the motor.
This should work: https://smile.amazon.com/STEPPERONLINE-Stepper-63-74oz-Connector-Extruder/dp/B07LF898KN?ref_=ast_sto_dp
Alright, I think I'm getting the picture. So something like this (closer to /u/ZombieGrot preferences) would work and get hot if the current's too high. I suppose torque isn't particularly relevant because it's just moving plastic in one direction.
Get tl-smoothers, cheap and easy to install. Not sure why Creality doesn’t just drop them in standard.
ARQQ TL Smoother Addon Module for... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071WG3SZQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
The stepper motor, not the stepper motor driver. The Nema 17 stepper motor is probably cooked, by the sounds of your troubleshooting results.
https://www.amazon.ca/Nema17-Stepper-42BYGH-17HS4401S-Printer/dp/B0787BQ4WH
I got that one. It's a direct plug in replacement for whats on the Ender3.
Wow, they sure don't waste many electrons on listing the motor specs.
So, first off why do you think that you need a replacement stepper motor? They're pretty tough little beasties and, while there are failure modes, more often the fault is in the connector, wiring, or driver.
Warning: Never disconnect a stepper motor that driven by a microstepping controller (like this one) while the motor is energized. That can blow the driver chip.
With that out of the way, have you tried operating the motor when it's plugged into another driver?
If it is the motor then you can probably replace it with a NEMA 17 that has 200 steps/rev (1.8-deg), rated current 0.8-1.7 amps, 4-8 ohms coil resistance, and inductance 5-10 mH. Keep an eye on it initially to see if it's running too hot. Something like this one.
I don't need PWM, it's just connected to the PWM rail and the pins are set to digital output.
I have caps between the Vmoto and MotorGnd battery, maybe not large enough caps. (The caps only equal 10micro Farads, I was hoping it would be enough maybe an issue)
However it works when the servos are not connected, so I feel like the issue has something to do with the VDD to GND connection
The a4988 says in the diagram of the link I sent it needs a 5v ref with the microcontroller.
https://www.amazon.com/Stepper-Motor-Bipolar-64oz-Printer/dp/B00PNEQI7W (this is the stepper)
https://a.pololu-files.com/picture/0J3360.600.png?d94ef1356fab28463db67ff0619afadf
this is the image that shows it needs a 5v reference to my knowledge
basically I connect the arduino 5v(vdd) to the driver Vdd and the gnd to gnd.
is it normal that the a4988 always has current flowing from the VMOTO to gnd battery? Should I build a transistor switch or am I going to severely inhibit the steppers response time?
I believe the motor you ordered matched the x y and z motors. The extruder uses the larger 42 40 motor.
That nema you linked or this one.
FYSETC
Definitely sounds like a clogged nozzle. Clear that out and you should be good to go. You probably don’t need to replace your motor, but if you want to, look for something with higher torque. The Creality motor you linked to has a force of .4nm, while the other motor has a force of .46nm. Moons makes steppers with even higher torque if you’re interested in that. One point to note, when I’ve updated my stepper motors in the past, they haven’t always been precisely plug and play. I had to change the order of some wires in the harness to get it to operate correctly (it would run backwards, haha). You may also have to adjust your vrefs if your new stepper motor requires more current.
Two of these guys: http://www.amazon.com/Stepper-Motor-Bipolar-64oz-Printer/dp/B00PNEQI7W?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
And the current rating is 2A
Hmm, the pi probably draws 2A along with the Steppers that's 6, and that doesn't include the arduino.
I guess that's probably an issue right there.
Though, I've noticed that this also happens when hooked up to my bench power supply. So maybe there's two issues here? Need caps to regulate and beefier 12v supply?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071WG3SZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bzDsDb82BHFPJ. This is the one I'm using I coupdnt figure out if it is a 1.1.3 or not. I also pit them on the x,y,and z axis. Not sure if they need to be on all of them
Usongshine Nema 17 Stepper Motor 42BYGH 1.8 Degree 38MM 1.5A 42 Motor (17HS4401S) 42N.cm (60oz.in) 4-Lead with 1m Cable and Connector for DIY CNC 3D P https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0787BQ4WH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_EGlDSxulyNiKi
You need to print a mounting plate since it is slightly taller than the original. You can find it in this subreddit I think.
here are the ones I use on my d-bot:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QEYADRQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's true, we do have a way to fix those though, stepper dampners, they can be found pretty easily on amazon or tiny machine, you want the nema stepper motor variety
https://www.amazon.com/Vibration-Damper-Motor-Printer-Stepper/dp/B077TNNT8Z/ref=sr_1_4?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1525584827&sr=8-4&keywords=stepper+damper&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011
https://tiny-machines-3d.myshopify.com/products/stepper-dampener?variant=36227308993
I use some High-Torque nema 17's, 76oz-in. I intially went with some run-of-the-mill style (48oz-in) and they ended up being under powered and the cnc would torque stall a lot. I'd suggest those at a minimum, with some Nema 23's preferred. These would probably work as well: https://www.amazon.com/Torque-Bipolar-Stepper-Motor-Extruder/dp/B00PNEQUZ2/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1485536544&sr=8-7&keywords=nema+17+motors
Yeah, this is considered more than enough power for a typical printer, so that's pretty beastly, haha. Anyway, the easiest conversion for a CNC mill is usually just to replace the brains with a basic Arduino based board that you can load Marlin or Repetier onto. The problem here though is the fact that I'm betting the motors you've got can't run that well with the max power most of those little built in stepper drivers can handle (I wanna say it's 2 amps at 12V per motor?) I know there's a way to add external steppers via relays and whatnot, but I've not had any experience with that. As far as the rest, all you really'd need to do is make sure the bed is just a flat, preferably heated surface (I think a lot of CNCs use vacuum tables? Not something you want for printing), and make a mount that you can use to hold something like an E3D-V6 in place where the head used to be. After that, you just need an extruder, and you can either attach that directly above the hotend or stick it somewhere off to the side and run the plastic through a teflon tube, in what's called a Bowden extruder.
Specifically, this is what I've got.
As far as I can tell, it seems similar to the part recommended in the BOM—though I could be mistaken, of course.
Any of these should work. You'll have to.cut the lead screw of course. Well actually there is a Z-axis extension mod or two that you may want to look into before cutting the lead screw.
Also be sure to check the shipping dates since it may ship from overseas.
Anycubic NEMA 17 Stepper Motor with Integrated 300mm TR8x8 Lead Screw for CNC Mill Router or RepRap 3D Printer Prusa i3
TriGorilla NEMA 17 Stepper Motor for CNC Mill Router or RepRap 3D Printer Prusa i3 + Iintegrated 300mm TR8x8 Lead Screw
Nema17 stepper 210mm or 250mm Tr8*8 leadscrew threaded
You should just be able to use this and adapt it to your needs.
The wires are extremely easy to remove from the connector housing. Just using a pointy object and press down on the metal wings in the back, then pull on the wire. They will slide out of the housing. You can essentially combine the connectors from 2 of the wires to make the one you need. Here is a photo of what it looks like before it is inserted.
As an alternative, I wrote a guide on how to DIY these connectors for 3D Printers. Not really worth it for a single cable, but when you are doing it frequently it comes in extremely handy. I addressed the whole "rearranging the wires" at the bottom, although I should probably add a picture there for clarity.
Yes they are. It cuts out different noises. It is significant. Much less high pitch whine during movements, essentially none.
You need the new steppers because otherwise you will need to print adapters for the old stepper motors with press fit pulleys to fit. There are some good ones to make the press-fit work for the Y axis, but the ones for X axis are not good.
I got this stepper: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0787BQ4WH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wWjQDbECAWXF1
Ok, I am new to this and I am seeing multiple NEMA 17 Stepper Motor listings on Amazon.ca.
I am not sure what specs I need for the Z Axis.
Would this one work?
Some other things I'd recommend
TL-Smoothers https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WG3SZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I know you already upgraded the extruder assembly but this duel geared version is nice: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SY745CF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
PEI Bed surface (has to date been the best upgrade): https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GSJSDWR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and if you don't have a glass: https://smile.amazon.com/Creality-Ender-Glass-Upgraded-235x235x4mm/dp/B07RD6D2ZQ/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=creality+glass&qid=1571456745&sr=8-5
I'd recommend applying the pei in the smooth side of the glass that way you can flip it over to have the textured side if you want.