(Part 2) Best breakers, load centers & fuses according to redditors
We found 416 Reddit comments discussing the best breakers, load centers & fuses. We ranked the 245 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
OMG! How flippin' old is your house? I haven't seen one of those in forty years.
Congratulations. You are the proud owner of a Bussman receptacle and fuse holder. Man, that is seriously old school. Like 1930's old.
Believe it or not, you can still buy one today:
http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Bussmann-BP-SRU-Receptacle-Holder/dp/B00004WA3I
The reason it's not working is that your microwave is drawing more power than the fuse could handle. Chances are that the wiring leading to that outlet is undersized, at least by today's standards. I urge you; no, I STRONGLY urge you not to pull out the outlet and replace it with a new one. I am worried that if I am correct, your microwave could overheat the wiring in that circuit. Trust me on this........overheating wires in an old house will never result in a good outcome.
If I am correct about what caused the outlet to shut down, you should pull a new circuit into the kitchen for your microwave. It is the safe way to solve your problem.
Plug everything into this.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P8M7N9F/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_J12jDbYP3VMZB
You'll be looking for something like this near the heating coil, I presume. It could be elsewhere also but once located, see if the temp & amp ratings are legible and order exact or something close.
Edit- A continuity test across the ends will let you know if the fuse is the culprit...infinity=blown.
This is an example of whole house surge protection normally installed at the main electrical box. Make sure to have a certified electrician to install it should you go this route.
I can’t actually see the one installed inside the power meter by the power company but I’m certain you can google it and/or check with your power company.
How about a smart breaker like this? I believe it is a drop in replacement if you buy the right one.
https://smile.amazon.com/CNZJSC-Wifi-Smart-Circuit-Breakers/dp/B07FS9VJCL?sa-no-redirect=1
Others have covered understanding current draw and battery capacity. I'll add a couple more things:
Here's my 5 amp hour LiPo for my FT-817 with fuse and powerpoles. https://imgur.com/a/OWpJQ
Yep I've said the same thing in the subreddit. Always buy a thermal fuse that permanently blows. The one from the BOM will reset itself IIRC. I believe this is one of the ones I've used in the past printer bed only needs to go to ~110 for ABS, that gives you a little leeway over. I use rescue tape to secure them to the heating pad to make sure they will blow if the need ever arises.
FYI, there's a hell of a deal on those energy monitors at Amazon right now: 3 for $46.
https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSB09104-Energy-Microfiber/dp/B011540UAO/
I just ended up grabbing this https://www.amazon.com/ZOOKOTO-12V-24V-Circuit-Inverter-Protection/dp/B071XTNLT5
I bought a house in March and had the intention of going all in on HA, but so far it hasn't exactly panned out. budgeting for a few good products as i go.
BUT, Here is what i started with so far. I've settled with silo'ed stuff so far. This is what i've done, others will probably have stronger recommendations though.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Z0V2NQ8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XOZG0Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FLZEQH2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0145OQTPG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
Yes, that's 5 separate apps on my own Note 4
Next on the list is a zwave hub and garage door controller.
Your metal ducts will probably already be at the same potential voltage as ground if they are connected directly to the air handler, unless you have a noise isolation collar in between. It wouldn't hurt to bond anything though. You could take bonding jumper from the panel enclousure then jump between everthing you wanted to bond or install a wall mounted ground bus bar like this. If you went ground bus bar route, take a #4 ground wire from the ground bar inside the panel to the ground bus bar.
Here's some related code:
250.104(B) Other Metal Piping. If installed in, or attached to, a building or structure, a metal piping system(s), including gas piping, that is likely to become energized shall be bonded to the service equipment enclosure; the grounded conductor at the service; the grounding electrode conductor, if of sufficient size; or to one or more grounding electrodes used. The bonding conductor(s) or jumper(s) shall be sized in accordance with 250.122, using the rating of the circuit that is likely to energize the piping system(s). The equipment grounding conductor for the circuit that is likely to energize the piping shall be permitted to serve as the bonding means. The points of attachment of the bonding jumper(s) shall be accessible.
Informational Note No. 1: Bonding all piping and metal air ducts within the premises will provide additional safety.
Get an Add-A-Circuit fuse tap. Basically it looks like a double fuse holder with two blades on one side and a wire coming off of it. You simply remove one of the fuses from your fuse block (convenient if you have a fuse panel under the dash) and plug it into that spot and place the removed fuze into the fuse holder. That functionally restores the fuse you removed. Now you have a fusible tap (the wire) and by placing an appropriate fuse in the second fuse socket that wire will supply 12V. Amazon has them here: https://www.amazon.com/Uriveusa-Add-Circuit-Adapter-Holder/dp/B01LFXA5XM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=add+a+fuse&qid=1574443792&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFFOUpFNzZERjFTSlomZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA4NTg4MDgyT1g1WjIwTVVVM081JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAzMjA2NzEyQkZXT1E5UlBVUVZSJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
Heh, sorry. You need to connect the red wire to a 12volt DC power source (more on that in a minute) and the black to "ground" (any metal part of the car. Usually a screw on the body somewhere).
The power is normally supplied by the lighter adapter, but as you can imagine, there is a lot of electricity flowing around your car. The simplest solution is to get a properly sized fuse tap (there are 2-3 different sizes of fuses commonly used so you have to make sure you get the right one for your car). You remove a fuse (for something that gets power only when the car is on, like the radio) from the fuse box under the steering wheel, plug in the tap and add the fuse back in on top.
You can then crimp the red wire of the direct connect into the fuse tap and you have power. Find something metal to screw the black wire to, and that recreates what the lighter plug does without taking up the space in the lighter.
As far as how to do it in the back of a car, you will have to pull some interior body panels off to get access, but stuff like license plate lights are usually a great place to get a switched source of power.
To get power from a wire that's already in place, you just need one (not the 100 in the link) of these instead of a fuse tap. You slide one end over the existing wire, plug the new wire you want spliced into the other end, then use pliers and snap the cover down, which automatically splices the wire for you.
Hope that's clearer.
SquareD makes a whole home surge arrestor that can either fit into two slots (Homeline or QO panels only), or attach to the exterior of the Panel (Universal). Check with local ordinances before you take this on yourself. If you are comfortable working in a service panel and can safely disconnect the main while working, it should be a simple 30 minute or less install.
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You can use a fuse tap and tap power from the fuse box. I used this to tap power from the USB power port to power my dash cam.https://www.amazon.com/Uriveusa-Add-Circuit-Adapter-Holder/dp/B01LFXA5XM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=Fuse+tap&qid=1557030683&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1#customerReviews
You could just grab the 12V directly from the fuse box using something like this. That's what a lot of dashcams do. Just select one with a fuse and wire rated for the current you want. You can also use a separate fuse for the charger and the raspberry pi if its that much of a concern, then just use a step down converter to power the pi and power the stepper motors directly off the 12V line.
If you want to get really fancy you could have a separate battery for powering your system, then charge that battery with a 12V line from the car. That kind of system would be a lot more resistant to interruptions from the starter motor.
It's a standard CCTV Item. The power supply is too.
https://www.amazon.com/Electronics-Salon-Panel-Position-Distribution-Module/dp/B01FCW7T0E/
36x20x62 and qb 240 v2 with red
Getting one per driver, this is to help control the dim
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P8M7N9F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GRGlDb10RKKAZ
This one the ups will plug into for the total grow draw. From the reviews it works best for monthly totals
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0777H8MS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OSGlDbH2XY0Y1
Here is the humidity control. Has setting for humidity and dehumidify. I used it for mushroom tents and works well
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076LMFRHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yUGlDbJWPZYC1
This is a great find. I would have jumped on that too. Those fishing controllers are cool. Just got a couple myself. Definitely take the yellow out of them and replace that fuse. It should be pretty easy to find online. If you want to upgrade the fuse to a re-settable one these will do just that. If it blows and the port stops working, it will reset when you cycle the console.
Hi,
I found two different video's where they tell you which harness & wires are to be used for the main speakers between the two different style head units, for MK6 Jetta's respectably. If you have anything other than a base model, your car will likely have tweeters as well, not to be confused for the line out converter install (and if you have the Fender setup then I have no clue). I may be able to find the diagram somewhere that I used for my LOC setup. Good luck!
The LOC/harness wiring is described @ 5:50 for this one
and
This one starts at 10:35 for the wiring - I personally don't like to use the "piggyback" wiring connectors this guy uses & suggests; rather wire in anything power related with an inline fuse box setup so it's protected.
So just replacing it you would need to verify that the conduit is providing the ground. It is done that way sometimes.
If it is the ground this should suffice. https://www.amazon.com/Bussman-BP-SRU-Fuse-Cover/dp/B00004WA3I/
Do note that I have no clue as to how code effects all of this. I am not an electrician I just play at one. I will let the real ones around here answer how code plays out here.
I got it on Amazon.
Electronics-Salon Panel Mount 10 Position Power Distribution Fuse Module Board, For AC/DC 5~32V . https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FCW7T0E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Xu51Bb8X6834K
> https://smile.amazon.com/CNZJSC-Wifi-Smart-Circuit-Breakers/dp/B07FS9VJCL?sa-no-redirect=1
This might be the way! 6 100amp breakers at $60 each would be $360. That's low enough that he might be able to stomach it.
I wonder about the wear that constantly flipping a breaker on and off would have.
Nice van!
Don't be too intimidated with adding a house battery. You can do it.
Very in-depth guide for adding a house battery with solenoid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zrwHyy4qyY
This is the battery I used, it ROCKS. (smaller and cheaper options from same company available)
Other items I used...
I used an inline one of of amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071XTNLT5/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1506353226&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=80+amp+fuse&dpPl=1&dpID=41ucx1XBpgL&ref=plSrch
Unsure. You can find it here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0716WQW79
You may want to look into a whole house surge protector:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C5NQTA
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00081K55Q
Both have very high ratings, and a bunch of happy owners.
I have a whole house surge protector, cleans up the AC power in the home pretty good... my (4) Vizio TVs are doing just fine... no other surge protection...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0723BS79W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
<$100 for whole house surge protecting... this unit fits my panel... I suggest you research into what may be able to fit in your panel... this fits Square D HomeLine Panels... these are pretty common where I live in central California...
good luck...
Currently in the process of making a new storage system which will contain the same batteries, along with a fuse box and 100amp circuit breaker for a little more peace of mind.
http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/dreamcast-controller-port-fix-fuse-f1-replacement/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X77Q7A0/
With bills that high, get one of these power monitors off Amazon and have it installed. It could save you hundreds. Your one-month usage is almost as many KWh as I use annually in a 2000 sq ft home.
Here’s the links to the things I bought.
Heater cartridge
SEFUSE
HeatBlocks, Nozzles, Heatbreak
100K Thermistor
Damn reddit is amazing. Thanks @az_adventurer!
Found this one on amazon as well. One of the reviews has pictures with it located outside.
https://www.amazon.com/Wall-Mounted-Copper-Ground-SCGB-1KT/dp/B00GJUZUMI
Here are two tools that help:
Tells you if an outlit or wire is hot before you touch it:
http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-1AC-A1-II-Volt-Alert-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B000EJ332O
Allows you to find the circuit for an unlabeled outlet:
http://www.amazon.com/Sperry-CS550A-Circuit-Breaker-Finder/dp/B000ET403A
A really old version of this. Mine is red and I think Commerical Electric made it back then. It was sub $20 I know that. It does the job...
Amazon has them in a 3-pack for $44.95 - https://smile.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSB09104-Energy-Microfiber/dp/B011540UAO
Also Gen1, but seem to work fine.
Not a bad price if you only want the pair of large current transformers either.
The input wires I think. Not sure about which breaker, I don't really know how the device handles multiple breakers. :x
220v or so I think. I'm looking to set this up: http://www.amazon.com/Efergy-E2-Wireless-Electricity-Monitor/dp/B003XOZG0Y/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_i
So just as stud sensors are a little ambiguous sometimes, the breaker finders require a bit of interpretation as the sound gets louder as you are closer to the circuit and softer when you are farther, as the breakers are pretty close together.
Anyway, on the one I have which is the gardner bender model in my link above, the plug-in portion makes an audible squeal, so it is easy enough to know which breaker it really is because turning that breaker off will also make the noise stop.
But here is where it gets better -- in my experience, it is really quite easy to check all the other outlets and lights with the wand, and the ones which are on the same circuit will make the wand tone sound, while the ones on different circuits will either not make the wand sound at all, or it will be so much quieter as to be obviously different.
I don't know of any plug in devices, but you could install a small fuse holder out there and protect only the receptacles the caretaker has access to. Order a 7 or 8 amp fuse and it'd give you a fighting chance.
Here is the emblem, here is the exterior lighting, here is the interior lighting, and here is the fuse tap needed to wire anything to a car's fuse box!
Well, I think the cleanest way (not messing with factory wiring) is to either add the cable directly to the battery, or to get the ground from the factory ground point, and the positive from the positive solenoid cable. The latter way is the most nice (otherwise you have a bunch of connections on the battery).
There should be two wires on the battery, a positive and a negative (sometimes there are two positive, but rare on modern bikes unless someone already messed with the wiring). Follow the thickest positive cable, it will go to a solenoid like this. First of course remove the battery from the bike (to avoid any shorts while messing with the wiring). Then unscrew that cable which goes directly from the positive battery to the solenoid, on the solenoid end. Now you need to get an eye wiring connector on the cable of that fuse box (most likely with a 6mm or 8mm hole, you can find them at any electrical store or any electrician...), and add it on the solenoid (besides the factory thick wire coming to it, and perhaps there are even other factory wires on there...). Also use some heat shrink tubing on the crimped eye to insulate and make it look clean (I'd also suggest you use as much wire sleeving as possible - either pvc or braided or just heat shrink tubing - that makes the wiring job look really nice and safer, you can also use insulation tape but that's a bit less professional). That's it, you have the fuse block wired to a good positive battery connection. For the negative, also follow the thick negative wire from the battery, it usually goes to the frame or an engine mount - unscrew it there, and add another wire with the eye connector on. Insulation isn't important for ground wires, but it still looks a lot nicer if you use it.
get a power meter that should measure power on individual things. There are quite a few, here is one.
https://www.amazon.com/Electricity-Consumption-Analyzer-Overload-Protection/dp/B0716WQW79
A few thermal fuses on the hot wires is a good idea too.
https://smile.amazon.com/SF240E-SEFUSE-Cutoffs-Thermal-Degree/dp/B015675DA8/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483805336&amp;sr=8-9&amp;keywords=thermal+fuse
Likely a power quality issue in your home. May want to invest in one of these.