(Part 2) Best car cleaners according to redditors
We found 466 Reddit comments discussing the best car cleaners. We ranked the 88 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
Choose your weapon:
http://www.amazon.com/Folgers-Coffee-Classic-Medium-Roast/dp/B001G2F5R4
http://www.amazon.com/ISO-HEET-28202-Fuel-line-Antifreeze-Injector/dp/B000V4HC7Y
http://www.amazon.com/Natural-Hickory-Sawdust-2-0-Lb/dp/B007E4TLGY
U can wash them in washer and dryer, just only with other Microfiber's. Then dry in dryer but DONT use a dryer sheet. You can use detergent, but you are better off getting a Microfiber cleaner. Such as this or this.
/u/daniell61 is all about that detailing. Here's a recent comment from him
---
do you know if that [bike] is primarily plastic or primarily metal?
for metal polishes (non painted) I can recommend marine 31's metal polish. shit works wonders on oxidized metals!!! (its my go to for non painated)
leather? any car marketed leather cleaner would be fine. I prefer mckees37 or meguiars to be fair.
for plastics I like this. a lot
leahter cleaner here
for learning these microfibers are a good cost effective start and you wont be hurt when they die and you replace them.
I can recommend any mckees37 towels or the rag company microfibers.
this or 3D pink soap (dirt cheap but i love it) is a great soap for washing without stripping waxes!
if you're like me and dont have time to clean...
once you're done. spray this and wash it off and boom bam you're set to go and have a good quality glass silia coating! here
I like mckees products a fair bit ;)
for sake of easy ass waxing I like extender wax but I do also like meguiars quik wax. that stuffs damn cheap but good. sadly its carnuba only :(
---
here's another one
---
TLDR rinse bucket and bucket with soap. use auto products. dont drop your MF cloths.
Personally I'd pick up a shampoo/conditioner and a basic wash mit thats microfiber made (attracts dirt better and wont mar your question)
(I can recommend 3D pink shampoo. cheap AND I love it)
next up a light compound (you can use meguiars ultimate compound. cheap inexpensive and hard to mess up) this brings out that POP in paint pretty easy to use with a hand applicator which are also cheap :)
next upppp paint polish. this is VERY subjective. I prefer mckees37 stuff but its more expensive than most like. I can also recommend meguiars ultimate polish. good and inexpensive :)
after wards you'll need a wax. meguiars ultimate liquid wax is a great starter and once again inexpensive. (I prefer trademark extender/policoat form mckees37) easy on easy off if you're taking you're time.
afterwards you can call it quits and bam you're done.
or keep going and seal your paint to keep that POP lasting. I HIGHLY recommend collinite 845 as its inexpensive as hell and STUPID easy to apply!!
also Mckees 37 SIO 2 ceramic coating is even easier but $.
then theres coatings. you can use something like Cquarts or even carpro....I personally juse use SIO2 from mckees37 currently. spray on wash off bam. not as effective but beyond stupid easy.
oh and also pick up some microfiber cloths of your choice. theres no right/wrong for them other than DONT DROP EM AND KEEP EM CLEAN.
links to products named
ultimate megs wax
ultimate polish megs
sio 2 coating 10% off ad warning
trademark extender wax spray
3D pink car soap/shampoo
collinite 845
ultimate compound megs
ultimate liquid wax -bigger AG carried
megs ult polish AG carried
Autogeek also price matches to a fair extent! and IF you're local you can pick up. :D
these microfibers are damn nice but $
I personally use these and they're lit. 16 pack and heavy duty enough to last a while
wash mitt I use
even NEW I can highly recommend clay baring your paint dis or the kit if you're new
oh and IF your brake pads literally ooze brake dust....this stuff takes time but takes care of the dust easily linky smells WAY better than carpro even at a lower concentration :p
WARNING: The post above is full of referral links.
Here's a copy with all of OP's referral links removed:
CART
PRODUCTS
EQUIPMENT
Actually, this is just from a wash and Chemical Guys Blacklight
About a month ago I did a full detail which included:
All applied with a Porter Cable DA polisher and some high quality Micro Fiber towels
3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover, this stuff is amazing at removing whats left of sticker adhesives. I removed company logos from the side of a truck, googone, goofoff, iso alcohol, nothing worked to get the glue off. two passes with this and the glue was gone, and paint looked great.
Meguiar's Wash Plus is marketed as a soap, but is actually used to strip old wax/sealants.
Very similar to this...
https://www.greenworkstools.com/shop-by-tool/pressure-washers/1950-psi-electric-pressure-washer-vertical
And this...
DUSICHIN SFL-001 Foam Cannon Snow... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WPKHFA6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
And this...
Chemical Guys CWS_301_16 Citrus... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TK0DSY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I've always struggled to keep my vehicles clean because 1) they were always old, 2) I've lived in condos, 3) car washes did a terrible job / detailers charged too much, and 4) I didn't realize you could do all of this yourself pretty effectively.
When I bought a new truck at the beginnging of the year, I randomly stumbled upon an Ammo NYC video and the nerd / clean-freak was intrigued. A couple dozen videos later, and I was hooked. Shout out to Larry for your passion - thank you for the insane amount of information on your channel. (Wish I could afford all of your products, or that you had some of them on Amazon!).
Living in a condo, I have to swing by my local coin wash and take up a bay with a few buckets during off-peak hours, but I've gotten it down to 1.5 hours and looking like this every time.
I've only been doing this for a few months, but thought I'd share the products I've researched and selected based on reviews and costs. Hope this helps save someone time!
TOOLS
BUCKETS
CHEMICALS
INTERIOR
WHEELS
TOWELS
I use this. Spray on, use a microfiber towel to rub some trouble spots, wait 5 min and rinse off. The more often you use it the better it works.
S100 12001B Total Cycle Cleaner Bottle - 33.8 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WJX6IM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_6XiXCbPH2KGQ7
Using the pressure washer you mentioned, just use the Rinse Function, no soap, and stand back a little so you don’t hurt anything. Your chain could be cleaned and lubed afterwards and by hand.
For reference:
Electric Power Washer
TriNova Foam Cannon
Chemical Guys Honeydew Snow Foam
Edit: and gosh, *edition vs *addition
thanks for the tag /u/solitudechirs
/u/CMDRHailedcaribou91 I highly doubt most car washes would be willing to do that unless its a self serve place.
do you know if that cavalcade is primarily plastic or primarily metal?
for metal polishes (non painted) I can recommend marine 31's metal polish. shit works wonders on oxidized metals!!! (its my go to for non painated)
leather? any car marketed leather cleaner would be fine. I prefer mckees37 or meguiars to be fair.
for plastics I like this. a lot
leahter cleaner here
for learning these microfibers are a good cost effective start and you wont be hurt when they die and you replace them.
I can recommend any mckees37 towels or the rag company microfibers.
this or 3D pink soap (dirt cheap but i love it) is a great soap for washing without stripping waxes!
if you're like me and dont have time to clean...
once you're done. spray this and wash it off and boom bam you're set to go and have a good quality glass silia coating! here
I like mckees products a fair bit ;)
for sake of easy ass waxing I like extender wax but I do also like meguiars quik wax. that stuffs damn cheap but good. sadly its carnuba only :(
Since I'm kind of known for keeping my car clean, I'll share what I have learned over my journey. Let me preface this by saying I live in a condo with a shared underground garage, just like most apartments. Due to this, I have no hose access, unless I go to the self car wash spots.
My favorite product by far is Chemical Guys EcoSmart waterless wash.
For glass, I love Stoner Invisible Glass.
For wheels, I'm a big fan of Chemical Guys Diablo Gel.
For exhaust tips, Mother's Chrome Polish.
This next one may not be for everyone, but I like it. Stoner Trim Shine.
Those are my highlights. The other products I use are pretty generic.
The best drying towel I have used is the Twistress or Twist'N'Shout from www.theragcompany.com. Nothing beats that towel. As for microfiber in general, microfibers will typically pick up water a lot better if they are slightly damp first. You can then follow up with a completely dry towel to pick up any remaining water. This Drying Combo from the Rag company has everything you'd need plus a few handy extras. Or this 3x Twistress bundle would also work very well.
Forced air is even better though. Most machines are expensive, but the Adams Sidekick is very well priced and works very well. I have one. Its not as powerful as the bigger options, but on a car with a good water beading product applied, its plenty!
As for the clay were you using the Mild or Aggressive Meguiar's clay? If you were using the Mild, then its possible that you have found something requiring the Aggressive. But I have never needed to use the aggressive. The other thing you could try is a Iron/Fallout remover such as Iron-X which will dissolve the Iron particles leaving your paint smooth if Iron contamination is indeed the problem.
As for the carpet. Do you have a pressure washer. If yes, remove carpets from car and saturate with carpet cleaner or APC. I used Meguiar's D101 at a 4:1 dilution for very dirty carpets. Lets sit for a few minutes. Then agitate with a reasonably stiff brush. The Pressure wash thoroughly. Extract the water with a Wet/Dry vacuum or blot with a towel then let air dry.
Iron X. Spray it on and it'll change to purple as it reacts/removes the Iron particles.
https://www.amazon.com/CarPro-Remover-Liter-Sprayer-Cherry/dp/B004UMB7WY/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=Iron+X&qid=1568824867&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzRDRENVMwMkVGVkY3JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDQwNzI2MzRGMTZHMk9LQUMxNSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjAxOTM3M05PNFMzSVExNU44QSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
​
But before spending that money, I'd stop at your local Wal-mart, Autozone, Advance Auto, etc. and pick up a claybar and try that first. Spray a little detailer or whatever spray they include. Rub the claybar on it. Should pull that stuff off no problem.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mothers-California-Clay-Bar-System/15137646?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222227010046920&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=40839225512&wl4=pla-78652925912&wl5=9007574&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=15137646&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAjwq4fsBRBnEiwANTahcEPnfhqxX6RWVYb2_5pdfMWKit6SmYfLW4pdXQlScEwS1MNuGq-PKxoCucMQAvD_BwE
​
Youtube Video of someone removing rail dust with Clay Bar: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NkiFFHsCUJA
I've started making my own lube, I full length resize about 3k every day with 0 stuck cases, that includes neck sizing. I'm doing it on a dillon 1050, 12:1 heet to lanolin you'll never have a stuck case either
My experience, after owning a Jet Black painted car. Others have said black cars are like having another full time job, and I agree.
I've been a huge fan of P21S paste wax. It's easy to apply, and doesn't matter how long you leave on, it's easy to remove. Starts to fade after 3 washes. But the best I've found a few years ago. This is the same wax that Harley uses. Overall a fan. This one is quite fun to apply to a freshly clay-bared car, by hand. No mitt, towel, or applicator pad. You can wax until your hand sticks, then rub hands together to get it to go further. And you have more control. Highly recommend to try this once. Used to swear by P21s wax, until I tried others.
Chem Guys - Butter Wet wax is a liquid, has the BEST wet look, deep tones for black/dark cars, but does not last long. At. All. Attracts the most dust, and creates the most dust while buffing. Looks the best right away, but quickly digresses to failure. Sadness.
Chem Guys - Black Light Hybrid wax. I use this with my Griots orbital and it's sealant & wax. Then I'll use P21S over it the next morning for the ultimate shine/protection. Overall, very satisfied with this. But the only wax I've applied with my buffer thus far. And was easy to remove. Lasted a tad longer than the P21s Wax, assuming it was the sealant properties causing this.
Recently read about Collinite waxes and they have them for boats, auto, and planes. I used their paste wax on my car, and it worked better than my P21S wax. It's been 6 washes in, and the water still beads in the same pattern as when I put it on. After driving for a week, with a few rain days, you can barely tell it's been rained on. It doesn't attract much dust in the garage, nor pollen. you don't notice that lower body water spray after driving, and still feels great to wash with wash-mit.
Griots - Was really disappointed in their Best of Show wax. Went on as a liquid. But did NOT come off easily. Yes I used the least amount possible, but I didn't like this one bit. Only used it once. Bottle is just sitting on the shelf. Didn't hold up very well either. The only way to remove it was with a detailing spray or spray wax. Sucked IMO.
May sound snooty of me, but I stay away from the over-the-counter waxes. I feel most of them have colors added to them, don't have the best protectant. I'd say not to buy the same wax twice. And only use clearer pastes rather than yellowish tinted waxes. Use the kinds that forgive if you get on plastics or that you get in between cracks. But:
NuFinish/Zymol Liquids - I use these after a quick microfiber wipe down, when it's still slightly wet. And then wax/dry it up at the same time. I'd rather use the liquids as they are easier for me to apply when slightly wet, rather than drying fully, than applying carnauba by hand afterwards.
I would like to try waxes by Swissvax, Zymol and more. But over $60 then you are starting to get into dangerous territory and eventually led to something like this. But I have a feeling, for that price, it better last a lifetime, better have 2 coats of clearcoat, and ad at least 50hp to your car. But makes you wonder if it's any different compared to the ones we use.
---
I always, use a spray wax when drying my car. I don't notice much of a difference in these, as long as you have ample of it.
Here's a good link on how to properly wash your car.
Haven't tried Zaino but have heard good things. Not a huge fan of the sealants, but starting to come around to them.
Tl;DR - all wax is great after using it for the first time. But the true test is how it holds up over time and how easy it is to apply/buff. The best looking results are the ones where you wax, let it cure overnight, and then that first wash afterwords is where it usually aesthetically "pops" the most.
Petcocks CAN be rebuilt without an issue, but depending on the price of a new petcock, entertain the idea. They can be a hassle.
Clean the carburetor and install an inline fuel filter if possible. Use non-ethanol gas whenever possible.
Definitely buy a manual for the valve adjustment, you've got shims instead of a locking nut on that bike.
Brake fluid absorbs 1-2% of water annually; do a flush and the brakes will have a notable difference.
Check the gas tank for rust, I've found white vinegar does wonders. BUT if you let it sit too long it'll eat petcocks. Try to remove the petcock just in case. Let it sit for 24/48 hrs while sloshing it every few hours. Empty, rinse with water, use WD-40 to displace water (OR use Heat), and fill with gas to prevent flash rust.
Buy a cable luber
Track down a local shop for a carburetor synchronizer to make sure both carbs are pulling equal vacuum.
I've found Rotella works great with older bikes. Had my '82 Yamaha Maxim 750 & '77 Suzuki GS550 running great and the clutch up to par.
I know you said you know about meguiars but there’s really nothing cheaper than this. It works great, and if you’re really struggling with money you can dilute it 1:5 instead of 1:2 and it’ll work very well, may just need to agitate it more than usual.
Well I've just started getting together my own kit and felt I HAD to get these:
I still feel like there are atleast ten other products that I NEED!
-Pressure Washer
-Foam Cannon
-Detailing brushes
-Sealants/Compounds combined with a proper rotor drill
-ETC
If you're going to be applying a coating, I'd definitely put in the extra work to use some sort of polishing agent before to make sure the wax is gone. The easiest way would probably be to use Meguiar's Wash Plus. It should have adequate abrasives in it to strip the leftover wax on your car, and it's pretty darn easy to use.
If you plan on doing an alcohol wipedown afterwards (doing just the alcohol wipe likely won't reliably strip the wax), then you don't generally want to go more than 10%. Here's a good post on it from Autogeek.
Hello beauty! She looks like a Charles to me lmao
You'll want to get a sun visor for when you leave the car so the seats don't burn your butt? I recommend one like this because it's quirky and cool
And you'll want to protect that ragtop
You'll probably want to have a blanket and umbrella in the trunk (for breakdowns/rain/cold) Keep some sunscreen in there too and wear it even on cold days!
Is it fabric/vinyl?
Fabric, try this RaggTopp Fabric Convertible Top Cleaner/Protectant Kit
Vinyl, try this RaggTopp Vinyl Convertible Top Cleaner/Protectant Kit
If it's a painted surface, try white vinegar with water (diluted 1:1), or clay.
Easy.
Buy CarPro Iron X Iron Remover 1 Liter with Sprayer, Cherry Scent
It works especially good on rust spots. Biggest con is the smell. I wear gloves with it.
I now buy Adam's Iron Remover - Dissolves Iron Particles Embedded into Paint Surfaces - Changes Color to Purple as it Works (16 oz)
It works just not as concentrated as IronX so it takes more sprays but also does not smell like it just gave you cancer.
This is what you want: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Plastic-Cleaner/dp/B0000AXMD6
Use a brand new clean microfiber cloth. Clean the cluster with soap and water super well and dry it off. Use lots of polish and smooth even pressure with 2 fingers. Wipe it clean before the polish can dry. The scratches should buff right out. If this isn't enough, you may need to step up to Meguiars PlastX.
Thanks for the tip. I went ahead and just got a gallon of Optimum Power Clean just to be on the safe side. I'll pair it with the lovely RL Flo-Master4 pt. Pump Hand Sprayer
I'm sure I'll find a use or two for Superclean around my house. Which reminds me I still have a gallon of Simple Green. Lol, my house is turning into a chemical warehouse stockpile.
S100 Cycle Cleaner Spray it on, hose it off and ride. You can give it a little scrubbing if you have some stubborn bug splatters, but its usually not needed. I run a quick microfiber towel over it to dry it off or just use the air compressor.
Maybe twice a year I wax the bodywork.
I like Plexus to clean and polish the windshield.
DO NOT ARMORALL YOUR TIRES!!
you could try something like this maybe
Is this the 3M stuff?
3M 08987 General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner, 15 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NUO6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bh0jDbGZ35YY2
I use automotive instant detailer (like this) and microfiber cloth for quick wipes.
I just hit a few spots.. top tube (sweat drips), around the bottle cages (hydration drink splashes), and around the rear brake caliper and seat tube (rear tire water splash).
Should Invest in some of this
I just use this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TTRORQ/ref=psdc_15718451_t1_B00DZIB9GS
I recommend not starring the car at all. All those little stickers can be pretty hard to get off, and may cause slight damage.
Also, I doubt that your paint is swirl free. If you are asking a no0b question (which is fine), you probably aren't looking correctly. The dealership yo-yo that washed your car probably caused a bit of swirling. Your white car will be exceptionally good at covering it, and that one guy can't do that much damage.
You don't need this porter thing. Check out the DetailedImage link over there ( I would not buy directly from them as they charge way, way too much. Find the products on Amazon or something).--->
You only need the power tools if you're going to polish/compound (which are exclusively for removing paint imperfections). But don't get too excited about not spending money, as you have sealant and wax to get.
The pads you need are applicator pads (not pads used on power tools). They are pads used to apply sealant and wax. Applying sealant, and then wax is what you do to protect your paint. Keep in mind that you'll need enough microfibers to dry your car AND wipe off excess sealant/wax. Also keep in mind washing the microfibers in such a way that won't destroy them (Never use fabric softener.).
Suggestions if you have no idea where to start: great sealant, pr0saws 1337 haxzorz wax, good clay bar, sweet clay lube, Microfiber detergent
All this advice comes at a price, of course: posting your before washing and after pics
So i need help lowering some costs here:
https://www.autogeek.net/griots-garage-paint-perfection-kit.html
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C39H9YX/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_4?smid=A1VBNNXVDKAOR1&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0753FSQN6/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_5?smid=A2OL7M5KSKZXGD&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076GF1XFW/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A2J3ZGD7X9V212&psc=1
2 things that work for me
1: "wipe new" trim restorer. It's "as seen on TV" but seriously works amazingly. Even consumer reports loved it. It comes with gloves to apply so you know it's serious. Can be found at Walmart or below
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FLKA5XA/ref=dp_ob_neva_mobile
2: heat gun the trim slightly. Try this
https://youtu.be/PQs2ik1dzzE
Let us know how it goes.
In my opinion, diablo does absolutely nothing. If your wheels are a bit neglected buying Sonax or Sonax Plus would be a good route. These cleaners have the same concept of using Diablo; spray on, let sit for ~3-5 minutes, then agitate with various brushes. If your wheels are in pretty good condition, you can get away with just using a bucket of car soap and some brushes. I recommend Citrus Wash & Gloss because it is a bit more aggressive than most car soaps. To dry I use this air blower. Some people may say that electric leaf blowers are better, but I like the compactness of this blower.
Yeah drain the fuel tank mostly. Just enough to get from where your at to a gas station. The water binds with the ethanol and alcohol in gas to pretty much make it wasted gas. It only takes a few milliliters to ruin a 4 gal. tank of gas. Once you get new gas form a station (ethanol free premium if you can find it) add some of this into it. Be sure to get the red bottle as It is stronger than the yellow. Add about half a bottle. The "Heet" will absorb whats left of the water in your tank so you dont have to empty it completely to get every last drop of water out.
On point of fixing it you need to seal the gas cap somehow. Maybe the O-ring is bad on it or maybe the whole cap needs to be replaced. Long story short the alcohol in gas can eat water from the humidity in the air even if it is not raining. So just leaving your gas cap open over time will make your gas bad.
Sun Joe SPX2598 2000 PSI 1.65 GPM 14.5-Amp Electric Pressure Washer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLNWJBP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_liIJDbDWN8FZK
M MINGLE Foam Cannon, Replacement Parts for Sun Joe SPX Series Pressure Washer, with 5 Nozzle Tips, 1/4 Inch Quick Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SWYXDJ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gjIJDbQKV2Y0X
Chemical Guys CWS_110 Honeydew... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VS4JH62?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
> Optimum Power Clean
Is this what you had in mind? I'll probably just get a gallon of it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BFUG6JS/ref=twister_B00GN1QB44?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Been using this :
https://www.amazon.com/EWK-Aluminum-Pneumatic-Refillable-Pressure/dp/B00JKED4MS/
Just use a bike pump to refill it.
I personally am using this. It's just a car soap but you use about 3-5 ounces of it in your wash bucket. It will remove any wax/sealant.
Apply the sealant, let it cure over night, then apply wax in the morning or until 12 hours have passed.
Weekly wash with diablo cleaner from chemical guys and pressure washer makes it a breeze.
https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-CLD_997_16-Diablo-Cleaner/dp/B003TTRORQ
Hope this helps! This isn't an exhaustive list of the best professional products but some of the best top rated affordable and highly rated by forums and high subscriber YouTubers. I'll try to answer questions as they come. Thanks for all tye comments and positive/critical feedback. Promise is all helps in the end!
Wash/Decontamination
Wheels/Tires
Compounding/Polishing
Finshing Wax/Protectant/Plastic & Trim Restorer
Interior/Glass Cleaners
Convertible Fabric Top Cleaner/Protectant/Sealer
Microfiber Cloths/Car Drying Microfiber Cloths/Buffing Microfibers/Brushes/Etc.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Blaster-55-Gal-Drum-The-Original-PB-Penetrant-55-PB/205063590
https://www.amazon.com/EWK-Aluminum-Pneumatic-Refillable-Pressure/dp/B00JKED4MS
Maybe with an aggresive claybar?
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-C-2100-Professional-Detailing-Aggressive/dp/B0009IQYEO
It's so strange you posted this question, because I have a similar problem. A brand new car I just bought has finger smear marks on the edges of the back window. Ammonia based glass cleaner had no effect. It appears to be some kind of dried adhesive, similar to super glue. I'm guessing it's what was used to glue the back window on and the idiots at the factory weren't careful. It's right around the defroster grid near the edge. If it was on the outside, I'd be able to use a razor blade. Unfortunately, the dealership I bought the car from is in another state. The service manager suggested 3M Adhesive Remover, but there are various part numbers to confuse me:
https://www.amazon.com/3M-03618-Adhesive-Remover-oz/dp/B000BQYA7W/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1536818222&sr=8-5&keywords=3m+adhesive+remover
https://www.amazon.com/3M-38983-General-Purpose-Adhesive/dp/B004EBNTYK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1536818222&sr=8-6&keywords=3m+adhesive+remover
https://www.amazon.com/3M-General-Purpose-Adhesive-Cleaner/dp/B0002NUO6K/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1536818222&sr=8-4&keywords=3m+adhesive+remover
I contacted 3M about this twice and and this was their only response:
"We’re uncertain as to what the residue Is but it will likely work. If used properly I wouldn’t expect any harm to come from trying it. Use nitrile gloves: Spray it onto a clean detailing cloth and use it to remove the adhesive.
Any of the part numbers they mention should work, these vary due to package size options and volatile organic compound restrictions."
The second part to their answer doesn't make sense to me, and I'm not sure what the qualifications were of the person who responded. I responded by asking which one was the least aggressive and didn't get a response.
> I do a general hand clean with a tiny bit of dish soap then throw them in the washing machine
Yikes. I've always read to never use over the counter soaps, as that will lead to what you're experiencing.
I've used this before and it works great. You may be able to save some more towels by using this. Mine come out pretty flawless. And feel brand new.
However, I do not recommend putting your MF you use on your wheels into the mix.
To be perfectly honest, I just started getting into the whole detailing community and have been learning a ton over the past week!
I just purchased my essential supplies and chemicals for a nice starter kit. See my thread.
I still need to get a number of items to complete my basic kit:
I am looking at the Chemical Guys Black Light sealant/finish and Collinite #845 as a sealant/wax hybrid.
I received good recommendations for both of these products. I will use the Chemical Guys Ultra Plush MF (1024_3) for buffing. I will probably get some Meguiar's MF applicator pads for actual product application.
Do you feel constant, mild resistance when you run a lubed clay bar over the spot? Or does it feel just as smooth as the clean panels? More than likely it's some type of rail or brake dust embedded in the paint that has rusted, then leached itself into the paint. Depending how long it sat there, it would determine how much of the fragments got into the damaged paint.
If you still feel some resistance, you can try http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-C-2100-Professional-Detailing-Aggressive/dp/B0009IQYEO. This has worked well for me, but it does cause some light marring, so following up with a polisher is needed.
If you don't feel resistance and are certain this is the problem, a more aggressive polish/pad may be required. However, because it's so minor and depending how deep the damage goes, it may not be worth removing the extra layers of clear to get to the root of the damage. I agree to see if iron remover product would work first.
It works perfectly. Just look at the reviews. I've used it in the past and it held up for years. Why do you think it's so bad?
https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-15OZCAL-Wipe-Restore-Fluid_Ounces/dp/B01FLKA5XA#customerReviews
No. [Opti Power Clean] (http://www.amazon.com/Optimum-PC2008G-Power-Clean-Gallon/dp/B00BFUG6JS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462227800&sr=8-1&keywords=optimum+power+cleaner) is the one.
Am I on the right track? I am currently looking for all the products I need to completely detail my car. I know there is no way I could purchase all of these at once, so I am planning on purchasing the major ones first and adding the others over time. I have spent almost two weeks researching on everything I need to do. There is so much information and so many opinions that it is hard to find a definitive answer on what I need.
> Wheel
Wheel soap:
Wheel cleaner:
Tire dressing:
Wheel wax:
> Paint
Paint soap:
Paint soap addition:
Leaf blower:
Clay bar:
Dual action polisher:
Backing plate:
Pad:
Compound:
Polish:
Sealant/wax:
> Interior
Carpet cleaner:
Dashboard cleaner:
Leather cleaner:
Leather conditioner:
Glass cleaner:
There are a bunch of other tools not listed here, but the ones listed above are the areas I am most concerned about.
> Other Concerns
I am still anxious about spraying water in my engine bay, so I decided to use a spray bottle with soap and water and a microfiber towel to wipe down the engine bay while it is still decently clean. Can I use diluted Meguiar's D143 or will I have to purchase Meguiar's D101 instead? Can the Optimum Tire Gel be used on the black plastics of the engine bay, as well as the other black trims of my car?
I want to protect my interior, in addition to cleaning it. I am very confused on what product I need to use to protect my dashboard from the sun. The same goes for the leather seats, where the creases are forming. I have been using a conditioner (although I am unsure of the exact name) to slow down the crease formation. Should I use the same product for both the dashboard and leather seats (with Lexol Conditioner on top of that)? I have heard of Leatherique Leather Rejuvenator/Prestine Clean, but I am unsure of when I should use that.