(Part 3) Best electrical cords, adapters & outlets according to redditors
We found 1,230 Reddit comments discussing the best electrical cords, adapters & outlets. We ranked the 503 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
Oh you definitely can have surge protectors. The picture they have there is misleading.
What they're referring to are extension cables or an outlet adapter like this
This isn't the exact one OP used, but outlets like this are indeed UL listed for face-up installation, and are specifically marked as a "furniture power distribution unit" to satisfy code. So what OP did is perfectly legal as far as NFPA is concerned.
Your concerns are valid, but your assertion about legality is incorrect...assuming the specific device OP used is properly marked and listed.
Make your life easier.
Extension Cords
I prefer these. They let you turn any power strip or wall outlet even into a squid. They're especially useful for blow dryers and curling irons because of the massive ground fault wall warts that they typically have.
Search your favorite site for "Power Strip Liberators". I use them in so many places.
Here is an example for you:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C8GHTMM
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EDIT: Cheaper example
Checks Amazon again
Well, I bought the ones in the first link a while back, and those are ~$2.20/cable.
These ones, a third Amazon link, look like ~$1.30/cable.
http://www.amazon.com/ClearMax-OVSPLUG10PK-1-Feet-Extender-Extension/dp/B00DHNX4ZK/ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
If you don't mind going the DIY route, you could probably come in under $100 for parts for the strips:
Instead of the flat channel, you might be better off with angled channel for mounting the strips above the cabinets, since they'll throw more light on the wall, which is what you'll actually see - https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Aluminum-Mounting-Installations-1901-V/dp/B00PJSSD7K/
There's a ZWave RGBW controller but it's more expensive than the wifi one and can take some more configuration: https://www.amazon.com/Fibaro-Micro-Controller-Z-wave-Strips/dp/B00P1N68FW/
If you get the snap-on connectors, I recommend putting a small amount of solder on all of the pads where you'll be connecting them on the strips, so that they make a good connection.
As for the puck lights, you could probably get something like this and wire the distributor to the wifi/ZWave controller, instead of plugging it into the controller it comes with: https://www.amazon.com/Changing-Christmas-Furniture-Ambiance-Lighting/dp/B01N2I47VH/ref=sr_1_2
I have a Fisher and Paykel Icon CPAP machine. It has a clock/alarm built in. Fantastic for travel.
Edit: also if you travel with CPAP a 3 way plug takes up no space at all and will fit anywhere unlike a power strip.
14/2 NMB is only rated for 15 amps, so the 20 amp outlets are against code.
if it's 14/2 NMB, acting as an appliance cord, that's also against code, and probably looks like crap.
if the whole mess is plugged into a 15 amp GFCI, he's unlikely to burn anything down.
the upstream GFCI, that the table plugs into, protects all subsequent downstream receptacles.
​
you absolutely can install your own outlets into furniture, but i would recommend going with a pre-made package, such as https://www.amazon.com/Kungfuking-Desktop-Grommet-2-Socket-Extension/dp/B01N531NK1/
​
if your friend has a DIY bug that won't quit, he at least needs to use a correct appliance cord VS NMB, and match the amp rating of the plug to the cord, and to the receptacle which will be feeding it.
/not an electrician
Amazon has everything
41, A flashlight. Preferably, a head mount one will be included, as well as small handheld, and normal sized. I prefer LED ones :D
■ EDIT ■
Cleaned up the listings :D
■ EDIT ■
NOT NECESSARY, but I have it... - I also have, available, a 1U Xeon X3210 server with 8GB of RAM and 2 160GB SATA drives in RAID1 as a "temporary" server if the client has a server go down and needs something up ASAP. I have them sign off that I am NOT responsible for any inadequacies in performance or functionality, it is MY equipment, I will support it 8AM to 9PM for 2 weeks, and at the end of those two weeks, I am taking it back. It is their responsibility to procure a replacement for their down server, and they are responsible for the PHYSICAL well being of my server.
S/A
Gotchu
Solder
Solderless
I guess for the right person this might be useful? Maybe? Isn't an extension cord way more common than that type of cord end?
As far as actual electrical issues go, the box needs to have a ground wire attached, there should be a fuse or something to ensure you're not overloading the cord that goes in the bottom, and the box isn't meant to be cut into like that.
Why not just buy this.
In case this is helpful:
>> UK plug
I have the CX450 with UK plug. I use this to plug it into. Works very well for me. I am not very knowledgeable on electrical stuff, so this may not be very useful for you.
I think 25ft is the maximum allowed by UL. There are J-1772 extension cables, but they're very pricey: https://www.amazon.com/JuiceBox-J1772-Extension-Charging-Stations/dp/B01CF8I4UW
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Might be cheaper to mount the EVSE closer to the garage door.
BTW, the solution to this problem is a product like this. Allows you to plug in 5 items, no matter how big the transformer is, to a single outlet.
Or even something as simple as a set of 1 foot long extension cords
I fabricated some of these and they're the most amazing things:
These adapters have gotten me out of some of the most insane situations. "Hey so I have a laptop but the plug doesn't work" "do you care about the LCD?" "not really" FANTASTIC! here's a cable to fix your problem.
The LightStrip Plus allows you to connect another strip to the end of the main strip. Third parties are selling extension cables that allow you to have a break between the main strip and the extension strip (like this one ). Just make sure the total length on a single controller is less than 32 feet.
Look at each of the electronic devices you're going to bring. Look at their power bricks, or near their outlet prongs. If you see something like 110V~220V, you're not taking chances, these devices are designed for multiple voltages. The only things that really need a a set voltage are heating coils, AC motors etc (think hairdryers).
As long as everything has 110~220V on it, just buy something like this or similar. You can find individual country adapters for a dollar or two at dollar stores, but I have a model similar to above. I don't need to carry around multiple adapters for a long trip, and the two USB ports are a bonus.
Short extension cords are your friend. I keep one of these in my laptop bag: https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Power-Extension-Cable-Listed/dp/B00CDVX330/
I made one (for $17) from this:
Southwire 90218802 12/3 STW, 9-inches Twist To Lock Generator Power Cord Adaptor (L5-20P To 5-15R) 15-20 Amps, 2500/1875 Watts, 125 Volts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SQGJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Yv1uDb5TBK94J
...and this...
POWERTRONICS CONNECTIONS (TM) NEMA 6-15P 15A/250V Grounding Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00654CWNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Sw1uDb721JDF5
Did you ever try one of these safety seals? I've always wondered how well they work.
Presenting: The DeICEr J1772 Extension Cord
I can't answer your question definitively, but I can offer an alternative that worked well for me.
My motto when it comes to this stuff is to keep it simple, especially when it comes to electricity.
If she can get a regular extension cord, then plug in one of these, which you could then plug the E27 x2 adapter into.
Hope this helps :)
Most of the parts on your build are fine. But if its possible you should change the power supply to an EVGA 500B or a Seasonic 520W since its just a few more dollars.
And this is just me nitpicking, I have the same Wifi card. Although its not terrible I would opt for a powerline adapter such as this tplink. Although the internet speeds stay sorta the same, you will get more consistent signals and better ping with powerline (assuming your house isn't 100 years old).
And if you are going the powerline route buy this cable pack since that particular model that I posted above takes up too much wall plug space, and these power strip extensions/savers will help a lot.
One more thing, if its possible you could buy a smaller ssd (like a 240 or 256 gb) and buy a 1tb hdd for some space. Sorry I'm not too familiar with the Ryzen cpus, but I think yours comes with a stock cooler that already has some thermal paste preloaded (so I guess you can remove that noctua paste on your list).
Good luck on your journey to the master race friend.
-Jp876
Yes. Don't use a foreign socket; just use a US one that is common in industry but not household use like L5-20R twistlock. Readily available at Home Depot but cheaper on EBay.
You can even get the extension/adapter cord available for cheap: https://www.amazon.com/Coleman-Cable-Generator-Adapter-L5-20P/dp/B00004SQGJ
Look for L5-20R for outlet (R=receptacle) and L5-20P for cord (P=plug)
Next time, grab a box of cheap pigtails.
As a fellow traveler, let me just say that this thing is awesome. It's somewhat unique in that it has a ground plug, which most universal adaptors don't.
42 miles on a Gen2 is roughly 75% of the battery range, and a full charge on L1 takes ~11-12 hours at 12A. So, if you're actually able to charge at 12A (meaning there are no other loads on the same circuit) you may be able to recharge fully over an 8hr day. If, and this is more likely, you have to drop down to 8A, you won't get a full charge, but you'll probably get enough to get back home no problem.
The factory EVSE is totally fine in the rain, you don't need to search for another waterproof one or worry about covering it up. Just don't leave it sitting in a puddle. J1772 extensions are expensive, you're better off getting a 12- or 10-gauge extension cord and protecting the 120V plug from water using something like this.
Also if you guys are interested these are the connection ends I used to extend the length of the cord between the throttle and stick.
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-signals-Terminal-Breakout-Connector/dp/B01CU9SHOO?pf_rd_p=e361840f-1df1-4293-9f80-7520ed008721&pd_rd_wg=RI5qm&pf_rd_r=2BHCWGW6BGP55Z6T9RZB&ref_=pd_gw_bia_d0&pd_rd_w=1ekgM&pd_rd_r=8d347336-ef84-48fb-829d-0d9bf86ee026&th=1
wish.com has grow tents for $35.lights are easy.... walmart sells a base for light bulbs to plug in standard outlet...get surge protectors from dollar tree and plug 2 or 3 bulbs on the strip. bam your good on the cheap.
walmart has em too but i cant find link...
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-Ivory-Socket-Outlet-Adapter/dp/B000VL4CFC
Kungfuking Desktop Power Grommet Conference Recessed Power Strip in Desk Outlet Power Socket 2-Socket &2-USB Ports 9.85 FT Extension Power Cord (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N531NK1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7nm1DbF3K5CTW
These
https://www.amazon.com/ClearMax-Prong-Power-Extension-Outlet/dp/B013KO70CI/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1504636210&sr=8-5&keywords=clearmax+3+prong
Is it safe/fine to use a J1772 extension cord with my Model 3? I have this charging unit in my house from when I had a Leaf: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0083ZZFEA and even though it has a nice long cord, it still doesn't reach the back of my Tesla. It's a bit of a pain to back into my garage, so I was wondering if it's safe to use something like this with it: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CF8I4UW ?
All wired to Mean Well 100W PSU (which ended up being overkill - I could run as many as 15 and still have wiggle room):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010CKUDZO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0022NH7G8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The Mean Well provides 2x5V positive and negative terminals. These are split out via Wago Lever-Nuts using 12 gauge wire (overkill on wire gauge, but better safe than sorry):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q7WM3SK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0756TDTDM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Finally, I just cut and stripped short runs of el-budigto dupont wire to connect runs from the APis to the Wago Lever-Nuts:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GD2BWPY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you have any questions or need more pictures, feel free to ask!
Not sure what the needs of the specific machine are... but something like this might work.
http://www.amazon.com/Prime-PS010608-8-Feet-Replacement-Supply/dp/B0022NH7G8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1416936558&sr=8-3&keywords=replacement+power+cord
However I might not be so willing to plug it right in unless you have some idea of what and how to fix these units. I know from some things I've read they can be a little temperamental and require some basic maintenance/care/lubrication.
They also do make these as well, and you can get them from just about any home center
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-Straight-Residential-Polarized-Non-Grounding/dp/B000FPAN84/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416936680&sr=8-1&keywords=replacement+plug&pebp=1416936666278
Ah, this type of thing looks familiar. VGA + PS/2 KVM switches spread round with tons of power strips and adapters, plus ethernet cables everywhere, used for multiple computers, probably repair.
Use those power bars, remove all of the other strips and just use Universal power cords with adapters like these, this, and that on the ends for various purposes. It basically becomes your own customizable, variable power squid
Might take velcro and bundle some of those together if necessary too.
We figured that out recently for our shop for similar usage and it have been a lifesaving revelation.
And if you need some special type of adapters, here's the listings from Wikipedia common cord ends.
You should just use a 24VDC Wall wart instead of this switching power supply. Here is one:
https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Adapter-5-5x2-5mm-UL-Listed-3206-24V/dp/B002LMQ6G2/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519701692&sr=1-3&keywords=24vdc+power+supply
Just cut the wires and determine which is ground and + with a multimeter. Use this as the input to the L298N board. Then you can power your Arduino with the common ground and +5V terminal. This might work a little bit better than using the switching power supply that you have noted above
Something like this should get you there, if they don't allow surge protectors on board. I'd see if you can find out if their plugs are three prong or two though.
IIRC, there's a newer Juul-type of device that allows for filling the pods with your own juice but I'll be buggared if I can remember the name! But something like that would be nice when strolling the Lido Deck! Enjoy the vacation!
The best I can think of is something like this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076DXWPHS
with one of these
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VL4CFC
Here is the mobile version of your link
The item i mentioned is not that much for Surges but for high and low voltage cutoff.
I'm using this for Surges
https://www.amazon.in/Goldmedal-Curve-205101-Plastic-i-Strip/dp/B0114BF6C0
I have these in mind -
If you get this and this, you'll make a lot more friends. Perhaps a power cable extension too.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013KO70CI (3 prong extension cords, 1 foot long)
It looks odd to see a bulky power wart on the end of the cord but it's fine as long as you can put it someplace where it won't be bumped into and possibly knocked loose. I also have some outlets designed for large power warts, e.g., https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FHMPV1S, but have found that I prefer the short extension cords.
I personally use a ton of these around the house and in my rack. It's have to find good quality low profile wall warts. Just use these cables and keep the good power.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B013KO70CI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=15R2KJ16RWV73&coliid=ICDSA6DQLQE6N&psc=1
better yet use these
https://smile.amazon.com/ClearMax-Prong-Power-Splitter-Cable/dp/B01GSFFEOC/ref=zg_bs_495312_11
Not really familiar with the van in question but are there any interior lights at the moment? You could always take off whatever covers the current light and hook up the LED strip to that. Very recently I hooked up few sections of an LED strip to my Camry by using the dome light circuit and took apart some of the interiors to route the wires around the car. I ended up putting light strips on the footwells of the front and rear seats, the dome light was replaced with some LEDs and there was a strip along the rear windshield. I used a 5050 LED strip and ~50ft of wires.It seems light the tools you have would already work, you would just need to find a circuit to connect to.
This was one of the only ones I could find - http://www.amazon.com/Conntek-Locking-Adapter-Straight-Connector/dp/B001KQEK7M/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1374000975&sr=8-12&keywords=5-15+l5-20p
Kind of expensive, and do I have to worry about it being outdoors or near a pool?
Edit, this seems to be a much better deal - http://www.amazon.com/Coleman-Cable-9-Inch-Generator-Adapter/dp/B00004SQGJ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1374007638&sr=8-3&keywords=l5-20p
Comments are people doing the same thing, so I guess this is the way to go.
Just grab one of these and a standard to candelabra converter and you're back in business. Total cost may be like 5-8 bucks.
Well you wouldn't want to plug anything into the recepticle because it's a switched receptacle. If you were to put a receptacle into the junction box and put a cord into the light ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0022NH7G8/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?qid=1451423201&sr=8-11&pi=AC_SX118_SY170_QL70&keywords=Power+cord ) and use a cord grip like this one ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005GDFLAU/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?qid=1451420633&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX118_SY170_QL70&keywords=cord+fitting&dpPl=1&dpID=51msffi-e4L&ref=plSrch ) to hold the cord in there splice it up and your done. Another option is you could just take a piece of romex from the junction box into the light with 2 romex connectors and boom your done.
> Any tips re: where I can find these two different thickness locks you are referring to?
I don't think locks come in specific sizes. Here's the two I had: http://i.imgur.com/FyD1aQ0l.jpg
> I saw you're tripod charging thing, brilliant idea. Where can I find one of those?
http://www.amazon.com/Outlet-Wall-Adapter-Shaped-Prong/dp/B0081A4GEC
> Packing cubes: yours looked great, where can I find those?
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=packing+cubes
> I will reach out with more questions as they come.
I used this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006U1O978/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 with this power cord - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0022NH7G8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.
I only paid $38 or something for the Evovle unit 2 years ago.
Do you have a ton of things to charge but not enough outlets?
You need a mega outlet
Just plug it in and you can plug 3x more things into your one outlet.
I don't understand how to do that. But here is my motor: http://www.zhengkemotor.com/product/product59.html
I'll be running it at 24V and it is the 70 rpm model. EDIT: I found the specs for this motor on line (probably would have been good to understand this before taking a stab in the dark).
At 24V the 70 rpm (no load) model uses ≤ 100MA. Under "Rated Load" it has a speed of 80 RPM (how is that higher?) with Current of ≤.6A and Torque of 10 kg/cm. Stall Torque is 15 kg/cm with a Stall Current of 1.4A. The gear reducer ratio is 1:50.
Amazon motor description said the "rated voltage" is 24. So for the power supply I got this one. It can accept 100-240VAC and uses 1.5A . It outputs 24V at 2.5A. (That is higher than the Stall Current. Is that a problem?)
I went back to check the spec on the speed controller that I have and while it LOOKS just like those DC PWM motor controllers, the one that I bought was described as an AC Voltage Regulator accepting inputs of 110-220V and outputting AC10v to whatever the input voltage is. Maximum wattage is 4000W. So I believe I will use this to dial down my blower motor on my chaff collector/air flow controller and order the proper DC motor controller today. Does that give you enough info to do the math? (TIA)
I use some of these but also bought a pack of these https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B013KO70CI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 when it was on sale, otherwise just get more of the monoprice ones because it's the same cost.
Five of them at a lower unit cost!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002LMQ6G2/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1486353579&sr=8-10&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=24+volt+power+supply Would this work with something like this https://www.adafruit.com/products/368?gclid=CJySv_bL-tECFdgIgQodgTgAeg to run wires to the relay and drivers?
Here's what I used to do my kitchen. Works with Hue can be cut to length and comes out nice and clean. Did do some soldering but you can probably get away not having to. I used 1 ballast and ran a wire thru the attic instead of using 2 ballasts but that was just to save on cost.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZ6CB2D/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MU76VMY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JKPLQW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K6ZJVP4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016XJS5B2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J4HI746/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ML3Q2ME/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Link: http://amzn.com/B00DHNX4ZK
UPS Server Y Splitter C14 to 2 x C13 Power Extension Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G1JMFZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_K0iACbJVTRBDS
SF Cable, 3 prong Plug Adapter, USA NEMA 5-15R to IEC 60320-C14 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004OC579E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_t1iACbDXVX13S
You will then need a power supply that provides the correct current capacity. If you use the whole 15m of ribbon, that is 12A for that ribbon.
Also, that's a really long run for LED ribbon. You will see voltage drop, especially in this cheap stuff. You can combat this by running power to both ends of the ribbon. You could also cut it into several smaller strips, but you will need a controller for each section.
Here yo go, there Not cheap. and not rated for long term outdoor use.
Link
more sizes 5-30 ft
I would much rather have one of these and one of these connected to it. Now you have 5 regular outlets available and 5 usb ports available. All for about the same cost and you get to put the brick in a more convenient place instead of having you bend down and plug in the cable to the wall.
Unless you're flying business, it'll be a little tricky finding a mains to plug in. Also, if you absolutely need to use your laptop during your flight (it won't be comfortable, again, unless you're in business), try getting one of those world traveler adapters . something like this
Yea, we'll definitely have to be careful when making it. But I forgot to mention, I did see an adapter that seemed correct for what I want to do but I'm not sure.
Something like this should work for the power. Not sure if it will run on just power without seeing schematics.
https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Adapter-5-5x2-5mm-UL-Listed-3206-24V/dp/B002LMQ6G2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1509794836&sr=8-4&keywords=24v+power+supply&dpID=51ZnVe2x07L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
Is that the HDMI cable? You might be able to use something like this to patch it, but it'll be tricky.
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-signals-Terminal-Breakout-Connector/dp/B01CU9SHOO/
There are different models depending on number of sockets as well.
Not ideal, but these work:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C8GHTMM
Thanks codon! While we don't have a product to reconnect cut off pieces yet, we do have extension cables without lights in order to get your Lightstrip to a different area while not lighting the section in between. We sell 10ft, 3ft, and 6inch lengths. Hope that helps a little, even if it doesn't quite fit the whole order.
https://www.amazon.com/Extension-Cable-Philips-LightStrip-Plus/dp/B01LWLRA9W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480392771&sr=8-1&keywords=litcessory
no they dont but you have to get good quality lines.
on a side note i got a pack of these and they are a life saver. lets me use all the plug ins on my UPS and surge protectors without having to play plug tetris with weird shaped or sideways angled stuff.
How bout these? KMC Power Extension Cord 10-Pack, Outlet Saver, 16AWG 3 Prong,1-Foot Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075WC3LZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EjM1BbCKZEK0B
> -Why is the cord on a bonavita kettle so short!
the cord is embarrassingly short and they should be ashamed of themselves for it.
I don't know if it's the same model, but I got my dad one of these to use for his bonavita.
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Power-Extension-Outlet-Listed/dp/B00CDVX330/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1542557292&sr=8-5&keywords=mini+extension+cord+3+prong
Would it be as simple as I get this extension then just strip the end of the wires and split it in something like these connectors or would it not hold the wires in it?
you can also use one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Headz-Extension-Safety-Resistant/dp/B004IPZ6WU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539528666&sr=8-3&keywords=Hot+Headz+Extension+Cord
Ive been using this since the IQ was out have not had a problem.
I got the parts on Amazon cause it's quicker, but you can get them cheaper from AliExpress if you don't mind waiting a while. I used an HDMI terminal board and a female/female on each side.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CU9SHOO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_BPozkZpsI162Q
Yeah, about that... Turns out there's a nest of unfriendly flying insects that I need to take care of to get a front-on shot of it. This is about as good as I can do for the moment.
Here's a side shot of the adapter:
https://imgur.com/a/joAimaC
Here's the cord cover I used:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004IPZ6WU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_T5eJBbXX36YTN
Yeah sure. Here is a link to the 10ft cable. And it is made specifically for the Hue. https://www.amazon.com/Extension-Cable-Philips-LightStrip-Plus/dp/B01LWLRA9W/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1477972367&sr=8-4&keywords=litcessory
Has never let me down
Thanks for the reply - I will test this once I'm back home. All of the lamps are either plugged into outlets that have an adapter similar to this or an outlet that can be controlled by a wall switch. Not sure if this has an effect or not.
So, I have only one socket in the room, I want to extend it to the other corner and have sockets near my bed as well. There is a 24 inch monitor and laptop that would be on the daisy chain. I am aware of power strips not being good at handling large currents.
I was interested in one from Belkin and this was rated high and popular (is listed at 10A) though I am unaware of the company. Should I go for the 4 socket Belkin?
You could use something like this outlet tap and it should be safe to connect power strips to it as long as you are not exceeding the power ratings. But I do not know much so do your own research.
one of these would answer your question:
Amazon1 Amazon2