(Part 3) Best hex keys according to redditors

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We found 336 Reddit comments discussing the best hex keys. We ranked the 146 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Top Reddit comments about Hex Keys:

u/BeltPress · 8 pointsr/halifax

Spare hiking socks

u/ztherion · 8 pointsr/motorcycles
  • Bondhus folding allen keys, available in both standard and metric
  • Leatherman Skeletool, my daily carry pocketknife
  • A grunge brush to make chain maintenance easier
  • Tank pads
  • A nice, accurate tire pressure gauge
  • A cargo net
  • Novelty keychains
  • SK68 flashlights
  • Water bottles
  • If they have GoPros: Batteries, mounts, microSD cards
  • Battery tenders
  • These wonderful cloth scarf things that I use to keep my lips from being chapped in the morning
  • Glow fuses
  • Sunscreen!
  • If they're into touring, toiletry supplies for the road!
  • A grip-lock
  • A cheap bluetooth - I have one of these, Sena is way nicer but these are good if you are on a budget
  • Warm layers to wear under the riding jacket
  • Comfortable socks and underwear
u/-Pasha- · 7 pointsr/Tools

The Bondhus T-handle keys are regarded by many as the best on the market. They're not priced that bad either at about $30 a set. If you can afford the extra money, I highly recommend those as they're way stronger than those HF ones.

u/JakeCameraAction · 7 pointsr/oddlysatisfying

Ihat's a Hex bit set.

u/Siphtor · 5 pointsr/Multicopter

Below are links to everything on Amazon:

Crazy Ants Reel Rolling Tool Bag Pouch Professional Electricians Organizer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O0FN832/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OtgGzb838Y9H5

BXQINLENX 8 PCS Gundam Modeler Basic Tools Craft Set For Car Model Assemble Building(A) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GH6B3Z6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_grgGzbFBB475F

Stanley 84-096 5-Inch Needle Nose Plier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001IW50Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gtgGzb2XFXKT9

StarTech.com 7-Piece Precision Screwdriver Computer Tool Kit (CTK100P) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001NYK16/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0ugGzbMGHA2NQ

Dynamite 5 pc Metric Nut Driver Assortment https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQ4XPQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rvgGzb3V9N7CK

NEEWER® Titanium Nitride TiNi Hex Driver Wrench 4 Piece Set 1.5mm/2mm/2.5mm/3.0mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CP2GGBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7WgGzb3WEWHC0

Bondhus 12592 GorillaGrip Hex Tip Fold Up Tool with ProGuard Finish, 7 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00269YAIQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zXgGzbJZRSBR6

There are also a few assorted items in there as well, standard scissors, small little brush(for getting dirt out of the quad in a crash), extra 12v power chord for my balance charger, small wrench(for propeller nuts), a couple extra small screw drivers. In the pouches: micro fiber cloth for fpv camera lens, zip ties and Velcro tape.



u/hcurmudgeon · 3 pointsr/prusa3d

These might be some more "advanced items" but I have found them all to be of extreme usefulness and not too expensive to justify. Note: Where provided Amazon links are for reference only and I have no financial interest in the sale of the item listed.

- A set of ball-tipped metric hex key wrenches. The ball end allows you to get around obstacles and still rotate the fastener. https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-10946-Balldriver-L-wrenches-1-5-5mm/dp/B0006O4AEC Note: You'll only need, IIRC, three sizes but the set is still cheaper than buying the individual keys.

- A clean popsicle stick works great to "scrape" or swipe the occasional pre-print and post-print drip from a hot nozzle's orifice and cannot damage the metal. Actually a suggested tool by a lot of industrial hot melt adhesive system companies for the reasons I just stated.

- A small open topped container, about the size of a kids sand pail, for all the waste support, brim, raft and skirt material you'll be generating. I happened to have a clean empty plastic 1 gallon OJ jug and cut off the top where the jug started to narrow leaving me a 8" tall "bucket". Small enough to keep next to the machine because tiny bits of PLA...

- A small magnifying glass, good for layer quality inspections.

- A small AA powered penlight, I had one anyway on hand anyway but was surprised at how often I needed it around the printer that it now lives there full time.

- A plastic paint scraper since I do lots of technical prints that leave large amounts of random first layer support spaghetti stuck all over the build plate. https://www.amazon.com/Red-Devil-4718-3-Piece-Plastic/dp/B001SBJIA8 (I know for a fact this set I've linked to is soft enough not to scratch the PEI coating. You actually only want the smallest scraper in the set, the other two can be used for what ever but at $2.99 per set even if you never need the larger ones it's no big loss.)

- A small table-top digital humidity and temperature gauge to monitor your printer's local "micro-climate". At the beginning I found that there was some temp/humidity related print quality issues where I had first set up my printer that forced me to relocate it and the only way I figured that out was by using this gauge. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013BKDO8/

- Good quality needle nose pliers with some grip to them. The pliers Prusa included with the printer are, IMNSHO, junk. I have both of these and am satisfied with both:

Good: https://www.amazon.com/Xcelite-378M-Profile-Electronic-Serrated/dp/B004UNFK58

Better (and cheaper): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPHEW2/

u/The_Dirty_Carl · 3 pointsr/TwinCities

They're upselling you, hard. Keep in mind that they make a commission off of sales.

A $400-$800 bike will last you as long as you could possibly want, and if you're a beginner you won't be able to tell the difference between the parts on that and the parts on a $1500 bike. Hell, I spent three summers building bikes in a bike shop, and the only ones that stood out to me as significantly different were the Electras, which were garbage (you're paying for the paint job with those).

The guys at that shop aren't lying to you about the quality of the parts and smoothness, but the function of a $1500 bike will not be twice as good as $750 bike. The difference will be much less pronounced. They are misleading you about the frequency of maintenance, though. That will not be meaningfully different. Getting the brakes and derailleurs back in "whack" is also not terribly difficult, and is something you can do yourself with the help of Youtube.

My advice is to test ride a bunch of bikes under $800 and buy the one that feels best. Use thirty bucks of that savings to buy needle-nose pliers, a three way, and whatever other wrenches fit your bike. Go on Youtube and look up brake adjustments and derailleur adjustments. I just noticed you're looking for hydraulic disk brakes, and the good news is that those are the easiest sorts of brakes to tune - they're pretty much golden out-of-the-box, and there's no cable to stretch over time. If you ever drop the wheels out, make sure to put a shim between the brake pads, as they'll work themselves together over time and that is no fun.

Also, don't forget about the used market. These bikes aren't changing a whole lot from year-to-year, despite what the sales folks may tell you. You can save a lot by getting a bike from someone compulsively upgrading or someone who bought a mountain bike only to discover they actually wanted a hybrid or road bike.

If you want to buy new (and I certainly understand the appeal!), shops will have sales at the end of the summer where they're trying to clear out this year's inventory. They'll also have leftover stock of this year's models when the season starts next year, and they will really want to get rid of those.

u/unclejunk · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

The last one you'll ever need - SnapOn .. Wera makes good drivers also slightly cheaper. The ultimate ultimate would be a PBSwiss



u/scorb1 · 2 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

Or you could just buy the right tool on Amazon. Here you go, use a socket over the end for a cheater bar. Bondhus 31860 Tagged and Barcoded T60 Star Tip Hex Key L-Wrench with ProGuard Finish, 7.2" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KAAR38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OuK2Cb3NVZ5A2

u/Koalaz · 2 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

I have two sets of their hex keys (two of SAE and metric each) and two sets of their torx keys....

They've been great, and hold up to abuse well. I'm not gentle with my hex keys....they're cheap to replace...

I twisted ONE of the torx keys (apparently an ~1' pipe on a T15 was extreme....) and Tekton support sent me a whole new set that was in my mailbox the next day.

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-Wrench-Metric-26-Piece-25282/dp/B01M8K6TUO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501532041&sr=8-1&keywords=tekton%2Bhex&th=1

u/Marcotics915 · 2 pointsr/Tools

this wera set has been from $6-9. its hex plus just doesn't have the ball end nor are they the long ones.

u/transpomgr · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Most of the screws on older Japanese bikes are Japanese Imperial Standard. It’s like the Torx screws in that you need special bits. Unfortunately, JIS look just like Phillips, but they are a bit wider and more shallow. A Phillips bit will bottom out in the center of the screw and just catch the corners of the center of the slots. I learned about them from the clevelandmoto podcast. They look like this- Motion Pro 08-0578 1/4in. JIS Cross-Head Hex-Drive Bit - #3 Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZY8DMFB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_i_tSg-AbZ1Y5H10

Also, not to shill for Cleveland Moto, but you can learn a lot from them once you get passed the whiskey soaked dick jokes.

u/ctesibius · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

Tarnation. Well, that's us stopped then.

u/zugzug_tv · 1 pointr/AskEngineers

Try using Allan key with a wire hooked with super glue to the long end of it. Drop it between the phone and the wall. One the L shape goes below the phone, you can rotate the allan key so that the leg "hooks" onto the phone and you can lift it up. Maybe use two of them to balance it (like a forklift)

https://www.amazon.com/Allen-Wrench-Hex-Key-WRENCHES/dp/B06XC7S4NJ

​

If you need more instructions, I can draw something in a 3D modelling software to make it easier. Hope this helps

u/OGIVE · 1 pointr/reloading

Also, get a stuck case remover Sooner or later you will stick a case in a die.

The RCBS case lube pad is a PITA. Hornady one-shot case lube is much faster. You can make spray case lube with lanolin and alcohol (google it) but it smells like sheep.

I load for my Garand with standard RCBS dies, it is not likely that you will need the small base dies.

I have loaded tens of thousands of rounds in 23 calibers without using a case gauge. I have never needed one. I don not agree that a case gauge is required.

You can get the hex key set for less without the branding You need hex keys for the lock rings and other things.


An impact bullet puller is usually enough.

You will need a case trimmer.

That caliper looks good. The $12 digital caliper will also work.

u/btownninja · 1 pointr/guitars

The nut and locking blocks should just be a standard 3mm hex/allen key. The saddle intonation screws are 2.5mm.

You should be able to get them at any hardware store. If possible, I recommend finding a long T handled 3mm (or ball ended 3mm) so you can easily turn the bridge locking screws without having to remove and reinsert every half turn like you would with the smaller sizes. You can also just dive the trem bar all the way down to angle the screws, but (imo) that's not as easy as a super long t handle.

EDIT: Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Eklind-54930-Cushion-Grip-T-Key/dp/B07BSDMCYR

u/56Mikes · 1 pointr/europe

Well I save time when I can switch between 1/4" and 5/16"just by flipping a bit.

u/tommyk3 · 1 pointr/guns

You are getting horrible advice and this thread is complete shit. Here is exactly what you need:

Vice.
Upper Vice Block.
Torque Wrench 1/2”.
Anti-Seize Grease.
Blue Loctite.
Punch Set.
Torx & Allen Set.


The reason people are recommending an armorers wrench is for the muzzle break install. Every armorers wrench has a slot designed for installing one. This isn’t mandatory because you can use a regular wrench but you might as well get one because you will need one to build a lower when installing the castle nut.

u/SpectralRaz · 1 pointr/CherokeeXJ

Yeah OP might want to try this with the L wrench style with the torx end

here

u/randolama · 1 pointr/EDC

Local hardware store for about 5 bucks. It might be this one.

u/boogiemantm · 1 pointr/radiocontrol

I have tried many styles of T wrenches, from the cheap chinese knockoffs to the more expensive lines. My favorite by far is Bondhus. Lifetime warranty is nice and all, but their tools are so great I have not even needed it!

http://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-13389-T-handles-Stand-2-10mm/dp/B00012Y38C/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1395387734&sr=8-20&keywords=hex+wrenches

My only issue with them is the lack of a 1.5mm wrench which is handy in RC. You can get 1.5 in other types (ie, socket wrench, modular drivers, etc), but I would prefer a T-wrench myself.

u/Empty_0ne · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

Buy this set, it is worth the investment. Once I switched, I stopped stripping tools. The allen keys sent with atomizers are too soft. If you only need one size, https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-26313-1-3mm-Driver-Blade/dp/B000O5EFT8 fits the aromamizer

u/graciasmadre · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

Tighten real slowly while holding it in place and looking at it from the side to make sure it stays.

Also, I did get a nicer hex driver which I suppose helps: Wiha 26313 1.3mm Key Hex Driver with 40mm Blade https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O5EFT8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1cGtxbCHHP6WK

u/mrtramplefoot · 1 pointr/Tools

Best deal for starter sets is these two together from tool discounter, https://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=KDT80550P&source=froogle&kw=KDT80550P&gclid=Cj0KCQjw9NbdBRCwARIsAPLsnFYxgfkreQ3glGbzdspWMV5mD8aWE2VIKi9KSriaOK02IKFZc7gz96waAofvEALw_wcB plus the 1/2 kit of you need it/really want it. Add this https://www.sears.com/kd-tools-5-ton-3-2-reversible-puller/p-00999873000P when they go on sale more or take advantage of the spend $75 get $75 back in points. Bondhus Allen wrenches, Bondhus 22199 Hex L-wrench Double Pack, Long Length, 12137 (.050-3/8-Inch) & 12199 (1.5-10mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E7VG5C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kqKTBbVWJSHZT add whatever screwdrivers you fancy and you're probably under the cost of that kit with better stuff

Edit: looked at the link again and missed some stuff, get this extension set at Sears with those bars and get to $75 to get the $75 back https://www.sears.com/craftsman-20-piece-drive-tool-accessory-set/p-A009988410 wrenches if you want standard 12 point ones like are in the kit, wait for the holiday tool displays to get put up and get the 28ish piece husky set at home Depot for like $30 or step up to this gearwrench set https://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=KDT81923&source=froogle&kw=KDT81923&gclid=Cj0KCQjw9NbdBRCwARIsAPLsnFbqtP_Ead7DMocuNLPeeDtKV65LkSIchO6oACKELQrmh5-sodXcnlIaAvhEEALw_wcB or like a tekton set like this TEKTON Combination Wrench Set with Store and Go Keeper, Inch/Metric, 1/4-Inch - 1-Inch, 8 mm - 22 mm, 30-Piece | 90191 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OXUPFDU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gxKTBb29EQ6GK if you prefer 12 points for some reason

u/follyburr · 1 pointr/Tools

I bought this set a few weeks ago. I havent used them but plan on using the 10mm for my transmission drain plug. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E7VG5C/?coliid=I3NC232QJI32AK&colid=1O3FYOB4QRKXD&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

u/SteveWagner197 · 1 pointr/ar15

Just pick up a simple T-handle hex key set like this http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-T-Handle-Hex-Key-Set-10-Piece-HTHKSM10PC/205300302 for $10 at home depot, I think they even carry single T-handles for about $2-3 each if you know the size you need. If you just have to use the Amazon gift card http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006SDTEU?keywords=T-handle%20hex%20wrench&qid=1452307097&ref_=sr_1_3&sr=8-3