Best home automation modules according to redditors
We found 173 Reddit comments discussing the best home automation modules. We ranked the 43 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 173 Reddit comments discussing the best home automation modules. We ranked the 43 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Yeah for DD2's spine. Maybe that will help DH when the time comes to evict her.
Have you considered something like the below for the TV and lamp? You would probably need 3, 1 for the TV, one for the big lamp, and one to turn on a nightlight. https://smile.amazon.com/Outlet-Required-enabled-Control-Gosund/dp/B074576LSB/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539618635&sr=8-3&keywords=home+automation+plug+sockets (Disclosure, I know nothing about these, I just see them in my Big Box Home store.)
You may want to follow up on the heavy leg with her and log a call to here PCP. The "heavy" part could be a blood clot.
I think what you want is BOND.
Look at this review here
You'll install a remote-control kit (sold separately, but some are linked in the above review article) and then use BOND to act as an extra, WiFi enabled remote control.
You need a power filter similar to the ones sold for X10: https://www.amazon.com/X10-XPPF-Plug-Noise-Filter/dp/B0002M5OJI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482164112&sr=8-2
Some new solutions were just announced at CES 2017, so they won't be out for a bit:
http://www.theverge.com/2016/1/5/10706816/apple-homekit-light-switch-power-outlet-idevices-ces-2016
http://www.macrumors.com/2017/01/05/leviton-homekit-light-switches-dimmers
I believe this one is already available, but I'm not 100% sure it supports non-wifi/Bluetooth connected bulbs.
https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Connected-HomeKit-technology-Bluetooth/dp/B01M8HI8L5
There are others out there, too!
You could use something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD3ME
I think Aeotec makes a dual switch one as well.
Otherwise you could just remove the current gang box and put in a larger one to accommodate 2 smart switches.
2 options I’ve seen:
Allows you to send commands to the relays and detect button press through MQTT (no need for Wink)
Then load up a browser and run a dashboard view on the screen (like HomeAssistant) to control other stuff around the house. Like brilliant.tech but You already have the hardware)
https://www.makesbymike.com/
If you do away with the wink relay, you’ll want something inside the wall box to control whatever you had before. I used a dual in-wall Zwave controller like this:
https://www.amazon.com/ENERWAVE-NEUTRAL-REQUIRED-ZWN-RSM2-PLUS-Version/dp/B07KQMGH7X
And again as above you can build a dashboard, except with the fireHD tablet you can use Alexa, and see your cameras. Someone wrote a post here about using HA:
https://community.home-assistant.io/t/wall-panel-fire-8-hd-tablet-lovelace-cch-mqtt-alarm-and-video-doorbell-on-ring/133561
HTH
The obvious solution is to replace the wife. ;)
That being said, however, you could install one of these guys then hook the switch to it: https://smile.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-RSM2-Converting-Switches-REQUIRED/dp/B01G7OD3ME
It would still allow the physical switch to change the state of the bulb but it would always be in control so you could still turn the light back on through automated methods.
You would need a hub though for that option to work.
Eve Light Switch is $48 @ Amazon which seems to be an alltime low.
A couple Wemo devices have been on sale recently at Amazon. The Wemo Dimmer was $59.99 and the Wemo Mini Smart Plug was $23.99. I wouldn't be surprised if they hit those prices again this weekend.
If you refer to this line,
> For the pusher, I recommend a relay rather than a mosfet half bridge. Much easier to wire up and work with.
I wasn't referring to the motor, I was refer to what you use to control the motor.
That said, you absolutely do want to replace the stock motor.
Not only do you remove the risk of the motor burning it, but the pusher becomes much more responsive and controllable. Especially important if you want proper select fire, but just as useful in full auto.
As for what to use to controller the motor....
Since you want an microprocessor to control it, we can't just use a microswitch like in a standard build.
There are two main options.
An electromechanical device.
Exactly the same as a microswitch, but instead of being pushed by a finger, there's no button.
Instead, there's a solenoid which pushes the switch closed.
Can be obtained on their own for very cheap, and very small, or in bulkier, but easy and ready to go packages.
See https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VRUAHLE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Pt2rAb6Z63HVK for an example.
Allows you to easily make the motor either brake, or run. Aka, easy pusher control.
The relay itself has no risk of being damaged by ESD, it's just a coil of wire and a microswitch.
Slightly bigger than a mosfet. Can't control RoF like you can with a mosfet, but there isn't much of a reason to do this.
This is a really cool idea! Once you have this working you really need to post a "How-to", I think a lot of people would like something like this for their driveways. You could even have your speakers say "car entering driveway" or something when someone pulls up. Anyways, for the how-to (source, I'm an electrical engineer but 'non practicing', so I'm somewhat good with this stuff but not an expert):
I believe the door sensor works by sensing when the loop of wire is closed, vs having a contact voltage applied to it. You can test this easily by just touching the two terminals together with a piece of wire, and seeing if it properly triggers. If this is the case, you may need to incorporate a small relay into this project to close the sensors together. To trigger the relay, you could use the voltage from every time the LED is triggered.
You'll need a simple voltmeter if you don't have one already. These are very cheap and helpful to have around the house. Here's one that's cheap and seems to get good reviews. Use this to measure the voltage across at the LED when it's 'on'. If this is 5V-12V, you can use this relay which is for simple arduino projects, and is controllable via TTL signals.
You would connect the + and - terminals on the back of that relay board to the power supply in the driveway module you have. That provides power to the relay board. The, figure out which pin is driving that LED (the line will go from 0V to 5V when it triggers), and connect a wire to the 'S' pin on the back of the relay board. Now, when the LED changes to the on position, it will also flip your relay 'closed'. Simply connect each relay output terminal (front of the relay board) to the door sensor, one to each side. Now when the relay closes, it should also trigger your door sensor.
Hopefully this makes sense... let me know if you have any questions and good luck! Soldering is not all that hard once you get the hang of it. Just remember that you're trying to heat up the components metal contacts, and then apply solder to that (vs applying solder iron directly to the solder). This prevents cold contacts, which can break overtime.
I did this with my range hood a couple of months ago. I used an aeotec micro switch. It ticks every requirement you have.
Related products on Amazon actually showed me exactly what I remember seeing before also, here's the link!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD1F8/ref=sspa_dk_detail_6?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01G7OD1F8&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=f52e26da-1287-4616-824b-efc564ff75a4&pf_rd_r=5TEPJ8EECGC1HTAF6VNP&pd_rd_wg=Tp7vt&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=33lB4&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=2fe93901-cf5a-11e8-b413-df24a88cfed6
I bought a house with motorized blinds operated by a remote control. I purchased a Bond smart home device to control my ceiling fans. It basically replaced my remote.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071GVGVVH/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_mBPBCbST25VJ5
It works perfectly with Google Home. The next thing they're adding is motorized blind control. It's a solid device that's as easy to set up and use as any of my smart lights and I can't wait to control my blinds with it.
I use a Neurio energy monitor. It does a decent job of tracking energy consumption (including my MS). There are other home energy monitors on the market that I haven't tried.
Note: Neurio "Intelligent Home Monitor" is additional add-on on top of the hardware.
Edit: link added.
Neurio W1-HEM Home Energy Monitor (North American Version) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0149EE5KS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Bj1IzbJEVFZCH
OK got it. I hope you don't mind all my questions. Hopfully this is the last of it.
I have amazon prime so is this close enough to your link above: https://www.amazon.com/Tolako-Module-Arduino-Official-Boards/dp/B00VRUAHLE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474495841&sr=8-1&keywords=5V+to+12v+relay
Also, what end would I connect the 5v to trigger the other end 12v?
Thanks again!
A lot of this depends on how the fan and lights are wired.
In general, there should be two circuits in the fan- one for the fan motor, one for the lights. That means two pull chains since you say you use chains.
Complicating this is the fact that you have one and only one on-off switch, which probably kills power to the whole fan fixture.
If this were me, I'd hardwire the switch so that it ALWAYS supplies power. Or just cover the switch with something like this.
Then I'd get two Micro Switches or equivalent, and put them above the fan. One controls the fan motor circuit, the other controls the lighting circuit.
I'd then replace the pull chains with momentary pull chain switches and wire those into the micro switches to activate them.
End result of this- fan and light have working local control with the pull chains. The switch location has an on/off button that you program to turn on fan or light or both. And both are addressable in Google Home.
Also note- the products I linked are Z-Wave. To make them work with Google Home you'll need a hub to sit between Google Home and Z-Wave. Vera is a good choice, SmartThings works too.
You could get WiFi products instead- Here's a micro switch and while I couldn't find a switch cover plate like the Z-Wave one, there are a lot of WiFi light switches you could hardwire in as long as you have a neutral wire in the light switch box. Just wire hot to load (so the fan is always powered) and connect the switch to neutral and hot (so the switch gets power). Thus switch isn't actually switching anything, just sending a WiFi signal for Google Home to react to and turn on fan / light / etc.
While WiFi products don't require a hub, it does mean if you ever reset your WiFi password you'll have to dismantle your ceiling fan.
I have a MyQ with Liftmaster openers, so I haven’t tried this but if you’re willing to use Aladdin Connect then it looks like you may be able to tweak the settings via the Lowe’s IRIS app, then use a Homebridge plugin to add it to HomeKit.
EDIT: I really don’t know if that’s possible without Aladdin in the mix.
This might be another option (maybe else someone can verify):
BOND | Smart Home Automation | Make your Ceiling Fan or Fireplace Smart through WiFi | Works with Alexa, Google Home | Remote Control with App | Works with iPhone or Android https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071GVGVVH/
Bond Bridges support RFs between 300 MHz - 434 MHz, but I’m not sure if they can support garage doors yet. It works well for my ceiling fans though.
EDIT: Homebridge plugin here: https://www.npmjs.com/package/node-iris-aladdin-connect-garage-door
EDIT 2: It also just dawned me that Bond does not support HomeKit natively yet. It can be made to work with some Homebridge plug-ins, but I doubt that would help with the garage door problem.
I use the Bond Fan controller. It’s not HomeKit compatible yet but the company has said its coming soon. It works well with Alexa to control speed and lights. You would need to have remote control modules in each fan but they are reasonably priced ~$20 per fan.
https://www.amazon.com/BOND-Ceiling-Instantly-Amazon-Compatible/dp/B071GVGVVH/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1516833372&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=bond+home&psc=1
iNovelli makes one. Dual-outlet z-wave, outdoor rated:
https://inovelli.com/shop/outdoor-smart-plugs/outdoor-zwave-plugin-module-2-channel/
https://www.amazon.com/Repeater-Combines-SmartThings-Compatible-Inovelli/dp/B075NZXH6W/
You want either the HomeSeer HSM200 or the EZMultiPli multi-sensor. They're both the same product, but re-badged. I have one in my master bath, and it works great. It reports motion, temperature, luminosity, has a multi-color LED, and functions as a repeater/extender.
Bond controller should do it for you. https://www.amazon.com/BOND-Automation-Ceiling-Fireplace-Compatible/dp/B071GVGVVH/ref=asc_df_B071GVGVVH/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=222189693293&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2172605882425384998&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9015314&hvtargid=pla-383275495166&psc=1
You want this:https://www.amazon.com/ENERWAVE-ZWN-RSM2-PLUS-NEUTRAL-REQUIRED-Version/dp/B07KQMGH7X/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=zwave+relay&qid=1551068633&s=gateway&sr=8-11
Manual:
http://enerwaveautomation.com/wp-content/uploads/products/zwnrsm2/ZWN-RSM2-Plus-0208160044-03.pdf
It's a little module you place inside the box (hopefully it's deep enough). You wire each of the two loads through it, then route the hot lines through the switches into the AUX1&2 inputs on the module. This way, the module can detect when you have flipped the switches and still provide local control, while connecting your your HA system.
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I was using one for a while that had a single channel, worked perfectly.
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EDIT: It's possible that this one is thicker, and maybe you can fit two single channel versions in the box if it's not deep enough. Good luck!
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EDIT2: I didn't assume the switches controlled those attached outlets- the above solution would work for both situations. But if you need to control those outlets and not switch internal wiring, you could use these, which are embedded Zwave relays in the outlets. One terminal is always on, one is switched, and there is a button on the front...
https://www.amazon.com/ENERWAVE-ZWN-RSM2-PLUS-NEUTRAL-REQUIRED-Version/dp/B07FKW42P6/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=zwave%2Brelay&qid=1551068633&s=gateway&sr=8-11&th=1
There are a few manufacturers for these, I haven't used the enerwave ones
I use the Sonoff S31 flashed with tasmota. If you can’t solder you can flash these OTA with a RaspberryPi.
https://www.amazon.com/Outlet-Required-enabled-Control-Gosund/dp/B074576LSB/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1550533623&sr=8-5&keywords=tuya+smart+plug
This will dial it in... Sense Energy Monitor: Electricity Usage Monitor To Track Energy Usage in Real Time. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075K6PHJ9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OmhyCbR0Y1VRR
Could easily do this with a /r/esp32, though if you DIY it on a devkit and add a battery, it'd be closer to the size of a pack of playing cards.
I've been playing around with doing something similar using a Fibaro FGMS-001 ZW5 Motion Sensor. It lights up a colored "eye" when it sees motion, you can set the color via Z-Wave.
So far I haven't had much success -- the Fibaro is a battery-powered Z-Wave device and likes to sleep when no motion is seen, thus it doesn't always get the update message telling it to change colors.
My advice was only 100% relevant to the brands I mentioned and am not advising splicing wires.
In the case of the brands I mentioned, the difference between a unit with a pump and one without is literally a pump installed into the machine compartment. The cord which would otherwise be plugged into the wall from the ice maker is plugged into a socket on the pump and the pump itself has its own cord that then goes to the wall. The pump is supposed to shut off power to the ice maker if the pump fails.
Looking at the pump kit for the Scotsman it is clear that this isn't the case. I don't have any suggestions at this point, though you could try splicing if you really wanted to with one of the in-wall switches like:
https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-RSM1-PLUS-Wireless-Control-Required/dp/B01G7OD1F8
I have this same problem - I'm sometimes gone for 12ish hours in a day. I was going to look into an outlet timer, and perhaps one that is wifi controlled like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Electronics-Anywhere-Automation-Smartphones/dp/B00P89PHR4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420048487&sr=8-1&keywords=buzzi
If you want to measure at the circuit: Sense could work.
Or something cheaper like this.
It's pretty simple if you use a 5v relay. You can think of a 'relay' like a light-switch that can be turned off and on with a digital pin on the arduino. You will actually hear a mechanical 'click' when you trigger it.
So you can use a 5v relay like this one to control a 12v power supply like this one.
And then wire it up with your light like this.
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Let me know if you have any questions about how to use the relay properly.
You could put a hidden micro-switch inside the back of the receptacle and keep the non-smart outlet downstream. Here is an example of one: https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-RSM1-PLUS-Wireless-Control-Required/dp/B01G7OD1F8
Items:
https://www.amazon.com/Tolako-Arduino-Indicator-Channel-Official/dp/B00VRUAHLE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522213485&sr=8-3&keywords=5v+relay
If you need to save on some space, go with a Solid State Relay like this:
https://www.amazon.com/G3MB-202P-DC-AC-Solid-State-Module/dp/B01JCPPBI4/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1522213949&sr=1-3&keywords=5v+solid+state+relay
and
https://www.amazon.com/CO-RODE-Battery-Holder-Wired-Switch/dp/B00VE7HBMS/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1522213257&sr=8-8&keywords=small+12v+battery
or
Get this and a 3x AA battery holder for your 11.1 volts
https://www.amazon.com/WAY%C2%AECharger-2000mAh-Rechargeable-Batteries-Flashlight/dp/B00PIDNTRA/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522213739&sr=1-3&keywords=Lithium-ion+AA
and
https://www.amazon.com/Gfortune-Cable-Plastic-Batteries-Holder/dp/B06XW8QC6N/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522213842&sr=1-3&keywords=3+cell+aa+battery+holder
Keeping in mind my only experience is with TP-Link switches, which won't work for you, here is what I think will work:
https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-RSM2-Converting-Switches-REQUIRED/dp/B01G7OD3ME/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481508259&sr=8-1&keywords=enerwave+zwn-rsm2
With this you keep your existing switches and this module should (must) fit behind them in the box. If it won't fit, I think it can optionally be located in the ceiling fan housing.
This uses Z-wave remote control technology and thus requires a Z-wave hub such as the Samsung Smart Things hub shown in the Amazon listing linked above. Note the 3 links to guides/manuals also further down in that listing. One of those has the installation instructions including a wiring diagram.
With this system your manual switches still control the light/fan but the z-wave control also controls them and can be linked to Alexa control. Z-wave control does NOT depend on the manual switches being on.
https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-RSM2-Converting-Switches-REQUIRED/dp/B01G7OD3ME
It's called a relay. They are cheap. here is a 5v relay. you can get them in multiples, with multiple current ratings.
Just put one inline with a wall switch. They are small enough to fit in the switch box.
If you want the switch to always invert the state, (i.e. If light is on, and switch is down) you could hook the wall switch up to gpio and have it swap the state of the relay for every switch state change. This way you won't run into a situation where you want to manually turn off the light but can't because it was remote controlled.
Yep! Here's a link of something similar. Not sure if that's the exact one I got.
In theory, you could use one of the dual relays to connect both the fan and the light switch. The only downside is that you won't be able to control the fan speed.
https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-RSM2-Converting-Switches-REQUIRED/dp/B01G7OD3ME/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480261041&sr=8-1&keywords=dual+relay+z-wave
I probably could have been more specific, I am using a relay module (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VRUAHLE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to toggle the solenoid, connected to the Arduino's ground, 5 V and D4 signal pin.
If you have an indoor junction box, then you avoid environmental issues and locate the switch indoors. There are a few high current solutions - Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch (40 amps) is one, Linear makes another. You can control it with an outdoor Z-Wave temperature sensor.
I have a Wink Hub as my smart controller, then am getting some of these to convert my light switches: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD1F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vDODybFPS73D2
There are also 2 switch versions that would control 2 lights, but basically they act like a 2nd switch for the light but it's hidden in the wall box so both the hub or switch can control the light.
Remember what matters is the protocols that the hub supports.
I also like to think of some devices as 'accessory' or 'auxiliary' devices, which provide a function or connectivity to gadgets (like light switches, outlets, locks, etc.) versus 'main' or 'hub' devices, which serve to unify/centralize your accessory/auxiliary devices and give you a central interface.
Insteon is a little different, since it's more of an auxiliary device (since you need the Hub/Modem to communicate with Insteon devices), but the Insteon hub also tries to be a 'main' device--not that it's a bad thing. You can actually use this to your advantage and switch to an Insteon Modem to use your Insteon devices with other 'main' hubs like Vera and Smartthings.
Anyhow, the Wink 2 supports, Bluetooth LE, Kidde, Clear Connect, Z-Wave & ZigBee. You are not limited to the Wink-branded modules! You can get any Z-Wave module. That said, the Wink site pushes the Leviton DZC Series Z-Wave lamp dimmers, but you can just as well go with a different Leviton or a GoControl/GE/Linear.
That said, you may also want to double-check the web to ensure that whatever you get will work out of the box with the Wink itself. This site shows both of those I listed as working.
As for recommendations, I've heard good things about the Smartthings hubs as of late. Winks have mixed reviews, but I think most are happy with them, especially for an easy, 'turnkey' device.
There's a few out there. Neurio and Curb are two that I've seen on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015IY0Z3E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_CU8FybW6S8K20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0149EE5KS/ref=pd_aw_sim_60_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WN6SSA8YKR2B0Y6JTZXY&dpPl=1&dpID=81DBKNpueWL
Has anybody seen one of these in action?
https://www.amazon.com/Sense-Home-Energy-Monitor-electricity/dp/B075K6PHJ9/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1524696643&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=energy+monitor&psc=1
Stick this in the ceiling box for the florescent. https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-RSM1-PLUS-Wireless-Control-Required/dp/B01G7OD1F8/
So, I've been looking into cloning the RF signal using an Alexa RF remote.
Check this out: https://www.amazon.com/Broadlink-Automation-Universal-Compatible-assistant/dp/B0753CDY86/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=rf+remote+control+alexa&qid=1566106641&s=gateway&sr=8-15
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Trying to see if it can "learn" RF remote frequencies and then I can have it control the chilipad.
Thoughts?
Nope, it knows about a lot of devices and you can custom capture the RF signals for the ones that it doesn't. Your existing remotes continue to work. No new receiver is required.
This is exactly what I bought from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/BOND-Automation-Ceiling-Fireplace-Compatible/dp/B071GVGVVH
https://www.amazon.com/Automation-Ceiling-Fireplace-through-Control/dp/B071GVGVVH/
It’s $100 but it’ll control your ceiling fans through Alexa. Mine needs to be power cycled like once a week though.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD3ME/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Assuming you have neutral and space in the box this would allow you to control both lights individually.
There is a custom device handler for smartthings though and that might take some edumacation.
https://community.smartthings.com/t/release-enerwave-zwn-rsm2-v1-v2-rsm2-plus-smart-dual-relay-switch-module/44256
Not sure about other hubamathings
This is the one you want. The RM Pro 2 was last year's model. It's the one I have and it's awesome, but the newer one is supposed to have 2x the signal strength.
https://smile.amazon.com/Broadlink-RM03-09-Intelligent-Controller-Smartphone/dp/B0753CDY86/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1509814444&sr=8-2&keywords=rm+pro+3&dpID=511JFsSOFFL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
If you're ever interested in taking your smart home a little further, I've got a blog for connecting this and and echo to Home Assistant on a Raspberry Pi.
http://smarthomehobby.wordpress.com
This is the relay you are looking for (allows you to control any 120V AC load at 10A):
https://www.amazon.com/Tolako-Arduino-Indicator-Channel-Official/dp/B00VRUAHLE/ref=asc_df_B00VRUAHLE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309803885710&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3454667229330550267&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1014421&hvtargid=pla-568715033020&psc=1
This is a really common thing to do with an Arduino, you can learn more about it here:
https://www.instructables.com/id/Home-Automation-How-to-Add-Relays-to-Arduino/
I have not found a cheaper one. I would totally grab it!
I do have this in a watch list: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q59PBZE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_htEzDbHGWFTVD
and this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073VXZ5JN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0tEzDbBAMZZK4
Any reasons why you chose this over Neurio? https://www.amazon.com/Neurio-W1-HEM-Monitor-American-Version/dp/B0149EE5KS/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_t#nav-search-keywords
You could also use a relay board. They work out of the box with no soldering and you can get boards with up to 16 relays.
https://www.amazon.com/Tolako-Arduino-Indicator-Channel-Official/dp/B00VRUAHLE/
I didn't research it to much, but I have seen controllers that install behind the normal switch that support more than one input. So perhaps you can use some combination to control parts of you switch? Enerwave Z-Wave Plus Switch Module ZWN-RSM2 Converting 2 Current Switches Smart, NEUTRAL WIRE REQUIRED, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD3ME/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qzMAybJP795M6
https://www.amazon.com/LINEAR-FS20Z-1-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00EPTMFH8
This is an example of what you could use. I don't know the amperage of your device, so I went big. There are other brands and models. This will allow you to turn it off and on and set timers, but you will not be able to control the temp output.
2 5v triggered arduino relays will get you to 1P4T
Your worst case scenario is to put 2 remote zwave switches up in the ceiling fan. This will require bypassing the remote module in the fan, and wiring the lights driectly to one of these zwave switches. Secondly, You would remove the wall switch as it won't help this setup (wire it straight through and put a cover on the box.) And finally, you would still have to use the original remote to control fan speed. Maybe put a zwave scene controller panel over the unused wall switch box.
If you open the wall switch box and you find that 14-3 wire was run between the switch and fan, then your options just got alot better. You could expand the box to be 2 gangs, Put in a zwave switch for the lights, zwave fan controller, and send the power down that the black wire, and the other the red. You'll still have to bypass the fan's remote control module, but now for the fan and the lights as the zwave in wall fan controller will handle the speed.
Currently controlling Honeywell thermostat with Alexa. Single zone
The purpose of my question is to cool the bedroom(s) at night and let the rest of the house be warmer. I just don't want to drop the cash required for a 4 zone system.
If I wired on or off electrical dampers with something like:
Enerwave Z-Wave Plus ZWN-RSM1 Smart Hidden Switch Wireless Remote Control to Lights & Ceiling Fans, Neutral Wire Required, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD1F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IMYhzbYEXKF1J
Couldn't I simply close off all areas I don't need cooled. I would imagine someone smarter than me could set up a web interface or IFTTT that could reference wifi temp sensors to command av on off based on which dampers were on or off.
The two servos and linear actuator Im using are all getting power directly from the 12v power source. The only things connecting these items to arduino are their signal lines and ground.
Im actually not sure how much current Im drawing from the 5V rail. The only things being powered by the +5V rail are three of these photosensors, two of these relay boards (to change the direction of the linear actuator), and two limit switches with 10k ohm pull-down resistors. Ill try to find my multimeter and see if this is the problem.
If I was drawing over 150mA from the 5V rail, wouldnt my arduino overheat even if it was plugged into the USB of a computer? Because right now it's fine if I keep it plugged into the computer and dont have 12 going directly to Vin.
> it's an open plan living/dining/kitchen
Yeah. My dad lived in a house like that for a while. It was awful. Have dinner, put dishes in dishwasher and then proceed to be entirely unable to hear the TV for the next hour. It's not privacy so much as just being obnoxiously noisy.
But, back to the lights... One option might be to put in zwave controlled mini-switches behind the cans, and put up a control panel instead of switches, but you're really back in the realm of "this could really bite you in the ass in 20 years" since the wiring won't be standard. For today tho, something like this would work in conjunction with a control panel "switch" https://www.amazon.com/Switch-DSC26103-ZWUS-Aeotec-pigtails-1-pack/dp/B06Y23DYWV
Either that, or smart-bulbs maybe, but then you're dealing with the "no no no, don't turn that wall switch off or the bulbs won't work!!" issues...
I didn't see anything either with a quick look.
Not sure if this would fit into your outlet box, but there are "contact modules" that are 20A. You probably would have to have a double gang box with a blanking plate over the controller.
https://www.amazon.com/LINEAR-FS20Z-1-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00EPTMFH8/ref=sr_1_58?ie=UTF8&qid=1500953560&sr=8-58&keywords=z-wave+outlet
This looks similar to what I am thinking you would do. https://community.smartthings.com/t/garage-zwave-relay-switch/1176
My understanding is that the Bond uses IR, requiring line-of-sight.
Actually, looking closer at the Amazon listing, the product description mentions IR AND RF.
www.amazon.com/dp/B071GVGVVH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zPBCCbT3FPDDE
I know the Bond doesn’t do native Homekit, but there is a Homebridge plug-in available.
I wanted to do the same. I have not tried this yet, but this looks to be the simplest solution. A regular blinker bulb to a z-wave switch set to go on with alarm.
Sunlite A19/5W/BL/WW LED A19 Blinker Light Bulb 5W Medium (E26) Base, 3000K Warm White
https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-80204-A19-Blinker-5W/dp/B00ULSPT3O/
Connected to a compatible z-wave switch or one of these.
Micro Switch G2, DSC26103-ZWUS,
https://www.amazon.com/Switch-DSC26103-ZWUS-Aeotec-pigtails-1-pack/dp/B06Y23DYWV/
I use a Linear switch PS15Z-2 which does this and is fairly cheap. It can handle 15 amps so I run a heated blanket and things like that, plus its pretty cheap. The only downside is it's fairly large compared to some but hasn't been an issue for me.
That depends on the size of your motor, the digital pins on the arduino can provide 40 milliamps of 5v power, but given that your motor is out of a car I suspect it requires 12v to operate, at a substantially higher current. For the purposes of your demonstration I you can either get a 12v battery box, or a 12v wall transformer and just say that in a production run the motor would be run by the car's 12v electrical system. Then use a relay to control the power to the motor.
You'd be fine if you used a relay such as this one. It has a transistor to protect from back voltage to the Pi and is really easy to use. I've set one up in the past to control a lamp with my cell phone.
>The important question to ask is what kind of 3-phase (they aren’t all alike), and what voltage is our lighting? (A possible answer not compatible with your switch is 277v).
Yeah I mean if he has 3 phase with a neutral they are most likely 277vac. Seems like the z-wave relay/contactor method is the best bet at like ~$40. Can be installed in the ceiling at the fixture or in the switch box - See Here . You can get straight up switches for 277vac but they are price $65 - See Here
If you're intending to draw heat back down, I'm assuming you've reversed direction on your fan? If you reverse direction it shouldn't really feel chilly below.
You can accomplish what you desire with any of the various forms of automation out there. Probably smart things (don't know since I'm not a user), definitely home assistant or node red. Just need to set an automation using either the ecobee as the trigger, or a temp sensor somewhere. You should be able to put the temp sensor somewhere out of visibility. You can control the fan with a smart switch, or something like Bond, which would enable you to use Google home or Amazon Echo to control the fan as part of the automation.
BOND | Smart Home Automation | Make Your Old Ceiling Fan or Fireplace Smart Through WiFi | Works with Alexa and Google Home | Remote Control with App | Compatible with iPhone or Android https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071GVGVVH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-Fd7Bb17X33BJ
It's a bit pricey but can control up to 6 fans and you don't need to see it since it will talk to GH or echo over wifi. They go on sale from time to time also.
There really isn't much in the form of smart switches for fans.
There is something from Lutron like this https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-PD-6WCL-WH-Assistant/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1543194776&sr=8-20&keywords=ceiling+fan+smart+switch
I don't know anything about lutron or what infrastructure it requires. It does say it's compatible with Alexa.
if you have a remote for the fan you might look at bond https://www.amazon.com/BOND-Automation-Ceiling-Fireplace-Compatible/dp/B071GVGVVH/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1543194776&sr=8-14&keywords=ceiling+fan+smart+switch
which mimics your remote control, but has the disadvantage of being uni directional, or stateless.
There is also an Insteon solution, but you would need at least a hub for that and be decently handy with electrical (as you would with the Lutron to be fair).
Yes but how do I fit two switches where only one was before and without running another 3 way switch wire?
Is it as simple as getting a dual rocker switch like https://www.amazon.com/Enerlites-Single-Pole-Decorator-Combination-Residential/dp/B075KJMSP3 and a couple of relays like these https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-RSM1-PLUS-Wireless-Control-Required/dp/B01G7OD1F8 ?
It seems like an overly complicated solution to me and i'm not even sure if it would work.
This is my favorite solution so far. My only reservation is having a dependency on SmartThings to shut off the fan, versus the timer switch.
Would it be possible to use a Z-Wave Micro Switch and keep my physical timer switch?
My thought is that if everything is working (SmartThings), then the automation would start the fan and shut off the fan. But for any reason, if my automation/smartthing, isn't working, everything still acts normal via the physical timer switch.
I have a mechanical pool pump
Timer too, I solved this by setting the mechanical timer to always on, and used one of these 20A switches in my fuse box closer to my property and zwave network to control pool pump on off via HA.
Saved messing about with zwave further from the home and fitting electronics into existing pool pump enclosure etc
https://www.amazon.com/LINEAR-FS20Z-1-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00EPTMFH8/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmrnull_1?crid=UEOOJ7S10THB&keywords=zwave+20+amp+switch&qid=1550839830&s=gateway&sprefix=zwave+20&sr=8-1-fkmrnull
These can definitely be found cheaper than this link so shop around.
You probably want to ask over at r/raspberry_pi. I have completed projects with power switching and would probably recommend using a relay. You can still use python to turn the relay off and on... And it's kinda the whole point of using a pi for this type of project. Here is an [example project] (https://elementztechblog.wordpress.com/2014/09/09/controlling-relay-boards-using-raspberrypi/) (not mine)...
Alternatively, you could use a pump like this combined with a motor controler you would get much more precision over the flow.
It's specifically made for Arduino with a FET on board for the control pin and I'm powering the coil (not the switched load, the relay coil itself) from a separate 5V/2A power supply. It's schematically identical to this one - note the J3Y transistor on the side.
Others have mentioned that I I needed to declare the pinMode for output (narrator: he didn't), which I'll be checking later.
This. Used this guide, an iDevices switch (Wemo or anything else would be fine) and less than $10 in parts, including this $5 relay:
Tolako 5v Relay Module for Arduino... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VRUAHLE?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I imagine this would work, but not sure what would interface with it. https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-RSM1-Wireless-Control-Required/dp/B01G7OD1F8/ref=pd_sbs_421_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01G7OD1F8&pd_rd_r=7E6HY1E3RSSN4QHYS66N&pd_rd_w=ZedD4&pd_rd_wg=YnaG3&psc=1&refRID=7E6HY1E3RSSN4QHYS66N
If you have a smartphone, I'd say this will suit your needs depending on if the lights plug into the walls or not? The two links you provided made it somewhat unclear if it was wall switch controlled or overhead fan lighting.. Anyway, relevant info:
In the app (on my iPhone, at least, can't speak to Android but I believe its the same) it allows you to set up "scenes" where one button press can turn on multiple lights/tvs/whatever on/off. You'd basically plug the light into the Buzzi, leave the power to it always "on" and just control the power from your phone through the Buzzi instead.
I also have 2 sets of these they're uglier and less "high-tech" than the Buzzi but you get more outlets [5 instead of 1] for the same price. Only reason I didn't recommend those above the Buzzi is that you want to be able to turn on all 3 with one click (which the Buzzi will do, the ZAP would be on one remote but you'd have to press 3 buttons).. Depends on just exactly how lazy (or fancy) you're trying to be.
Truthfully, the Buzzi is still a beta product and the app can be kind of a PitA at times, but if you're just desperate to be able to network the lights together its a good fit. I personally would only recommend it if you are using it to control a device that needs an IR remote (ie a TV/radio) as that can all be done from in the app (and its pretty well done) - otherwise the nursing home-esque ZAP product is more than sufficient. The range can be a little shoddy, FWIW, but if you're in an apartment you probably wont have issues.
TL;DR:
Buzzi | Etekcity ZAP
---|---
---|---
Pretty/Stylish | Ugly
Only controls 1 device per unit | Controls 5 outlets from 1 remote
Integrated from smartphone/your current home wifi | Has a standalone remote
App can load slowly at startup | Remote is responsive, if a bit short ranged
Can control/replace an IR remote for TVs/radios/etc | Can't do IR, but you don't seem to need that feature anyway
Works over WiFi, no range issues | You live in an apartment, so this may be a moot point
Removed Amazon referral links, mea culpa
You could try rigging it into a relay such as this one, then powering it with a 9v battery. It may take some fiddling, and I'm way too tired to think right now, but it could work. I used it to hook a lamp up to an arduino and powered it with much lower voltage than the lamp would normally take. Of course, you'll still have the normal issues you'd get by using a doorbell circuit.
If you really want to get it done you could wire up a killswitch with a doorbell looking button, and add an LED that is controlled by the killswitch button.
I have a Hunter fan as well. I bought a Bond device which essentially replicates the RF controller Hunter fans use. Hooked it up to my GHome and it works perfectly.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071GVGVVH/ref=dp_cr_wdg_tit_nw_mr
You might want to check out [this] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0149EE5KS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i9FLzbAMQ437B)
Power draw is roughly 3.4 kWh according to my solar system's monitoring
An alternative would be to just bypass the switch and install this behind the cowling of the fan. No fan speed/dimmer control tho.
I’m planning to do the same thing in a house I just started building.
My plan is to run some wire like you described (or more likely cat6) to where I want to put some motion sensors. Run 48v over it to a 5v buck converter and pir motion sensor. All that backhauled to a raspberry pi which will use MQTT to update my hub when motion is detected.
If you want something more plug and play (literally), you can get some of these plugin zwave motion sensors. I just got one a couple weeks ago to play with and it’s good. It also detects luminosity so when it’s dark you can put your lights on low, and when it’s bright, don’t turn them on at all. But since they’re zwave and plug-in you don’t have to wire anything or ever change batteries.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q59PBZE/ref=asc_df_B00Q59PBZE5405680/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B00Q59PBZE&linkCode=df0&hvadid=216516247812&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11709463841002654333&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=200524&hvtargid=pla-355593595360
If you have a hub that handles z-wave, maybe something like this would work? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD3ME
But z-wave isn't gonna reach 200ft, so you'd need a repeater or something.
Pretty sure you can use this. Much like the one you linked from Home Depot, it can be installed in the fan canopy. The wall switch will still work to turn the whole thing on and off, but when on, you can control the can and light separately- or create a virtual switch to turn them on/off simultaneously
1626-10 Filterlinc (Alternately X10 XPPF Plug In Noise Filter) on appliances with motors, heaters, battery backup, etc. Also, having a lot of X10 modules can also create issues.
Of course, by the time you spend the money for that, you'd probably be better off upgrading to the latest Insteon modules. Good luck.
Perhaps that'd work but it wouldn't be very accessible if hidden behind the Hue dimmer wallplate.
Maybe a Zwave micro relay would be preferred? Of course a Zwave hub would be required though.
Micro Switch G2, DSC26103-ZWUS, by Aeotec with pigtails (1-pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y23DYWV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mqTPzb7CD6393
NA? Nambia? Northern Australia?
If you mean North America I got mine off of Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Fibaro-FGMS-001-ZW5-motionsensor-Multisensor-FGMS-001/dp/B01KOGDETI/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=fibaro+motion+sensor&qid=1574087383&sr=8-4
I connected the live and load wires to an Aeotec Z Wave Micro Switch. I could have directly capped the two wires but I wanted the ability to turn it off and on with my zwave hub's app if I wanted to.
Then I removed the toggle switch and replaced it with a toggle plastic adapter plate.
I then installed a screwless 3 gang plate. I first tried a regular screwed in plate but the screw was getting in the way of centering the POP (OCD).
And then I just attached the Pop with a double sided tape.
I will also try to use a Flic. I think it may look nicer because it's smaller. I have an old android phone that I'll use as a dedicated Flic "Hub".
Disclaimer: I did this with the guidance of my electrician and do not recommend you doing it yourself without an electrician or without referring to your local code.
I just got one of these, works great https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B071GVGVVH/ref=dp_cr_wdg_tit_nw_mr
you could airways 'borrow' one, and program something like this (I have 4 of those fans, and all can be controlled with one Bond unit and app). or search for "universal rf ceiling fan remote" on eBay or elsewhere. Good luck!
https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-RSM2-Converting-Switches-REQUIRED/dp/B01G7OD3ME
Updating my own post because I think I figured out a way.
They make garage door universal receivers (intended for driveway gates), which are basically N.O. relays that work with garage door openers. Example I can then connect that relay to a Z-Wave switch module, such as this, and that will allow the garage door relays to communicate via Z-wave with my home automation system. I haven't tried it yet, but seems feasible.
I think the easiest solution would probably getting a one of these and a compatible charger like this one I think.
The FTDI programmer can supply power as well but it might not be enough if you make use of the Wifi stuff.
If the use case is to be able to buy yourself in, geofence is not accurate enough to trigger that.
Sounds like you'll need to wire something into the door buzzer in your apartment. Like this thing.
Enerwave ZWN-RSM1-PLUS Z-Wave Relay, Z-Wave Plus Micro Switch, Smart Hidden Switch Wireless Remote Control to Lights and Ceiling Fans, Neutral Wire Required, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD1F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ugPQCbSETGY9R
How exactly? Could not say.... It'll depend on the way the buzzer works.
Keep in mind that this will mean if your internet or power goes down, you are stuck outside.
Wait so are you saying that a USB connection and 5V pin is enough to power the motor I am buying? Cause I noticed I can just connect the USB port into a wall so it's no less convenient than plugging in the 24V power supply I just bought. It would make things a lot easier and cheaper for me actually.
On a side note, I found this :
https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Conwork-10-Pack-Female-Extension/dp/B01G6EANPU/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=5.5%C3%972.1+Female+Power+Plug+arduino&qid=1555367847&s=electronics&sr=1-9
and this :
https://www.marginallyclever.com/product/55x21-female-power-plug/
They both seem to maybe help me do what I need. But also I have one of these from my kit:
https://www.amazon.com/UCEC-Supply-Arduino-Solderless-Breadboard/dp/B01LCL6K0O/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=5.5%C3%972.1%2BFemale%2BPower%2BPlug%2Barduino&qid=1555368165&s=electronics&sr=1-5&th=1
Can I just use that?
ENERWAVE Z-Wave Plus Dual Relay Switch Module, Z-Wave Relay
Used it to give circa 1990 fan/light smart capabilities, as-well-as voice control via Amazon Echo. Used Westinghouse 7727000 48-Inch Down Rod Wire Extension Kit to extend leads.
It might be cheaper to get a remote controlled fan, then use the Bond system of smart control:
https://www.amazon.com/BOND-Automation-Ceiling-through-Compatible/dp/B071GVGVVH
From what I can tell, you would need to add both a fan RF Control Kit and some thing like Bond Ceiling Fan Controller, which is Alexa compatible.
The RF Control kit turns your old dumb fan into a fan controllable by a remote.
The Bond clones the RF signal from the remote and will work with Alexa so you can control it with voice.
I actually bought a 0.96" OLED screen that I might add to display when the plant was last watered.
Arduino
Raspberry Pi
Pump
Relay
Sensor
I got this for around $35 LINEAR FS20Z-1 Z-Wave 20-amp Isolated Contact Fixture Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EPTMFH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gdP7Ab0GT8M0T
It's a bit of a DIY setup, soldered it to an old PC cable I had. Plugged it into the same outlet as the garage door opener and mounted it on the same bracket. Also got an Ecolink garage door tilt sensor for about $24.
I don't use location services, not sure how reliable or quick to respond they are. But my setup is great for auto closing at night, and sending me actionable push notifications if I leave it open during the day. Also made an IFTTT widget so I can open with my watch.
Nope, you can keep the regular one. Like this micro switch
So I just found this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01G7OD1F8/ref=pd_aw_sbs_60_of_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=6PCH57G7MYJCP1PFDJ8M
There are a bunch of different brands and sizes on Amazon.
Basically I think you could put that inside the fan electrical box. I'm assuming the fan power and light power should be separated in there? (If not you're out of options). If they are you still wouldn't be able to control fan speed but it would go to whatever setting is on the pull chain. It's z-wave so you'd still need something like Smartthings hub which isnt horrible because then you can open a door of other things to control if you choose.
I got this relay board:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VRUAHLE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For what you are trying to achieve, z-wave and/or zigbee will do you best. The first thing you are going to need is a smart hub that has z-wave and/or zigbee radios. I use Samsung SmartThings, and it's decent and has both radios. There are other options on the market, but I think SmartThings is probably the most popular one on the market.
I can link you some products that I have in my house that work great with my SmartThings hub, and will work with various other hubs on the market.
Fan Control (speed only, not light)
Motion sensor (You can normally find these for $30 or less)
Door/window sensor
Dimmer switch
Garage door opener
Plug in outlet
Well, I have 4 remote controlled fans in my house and wanted the ability to control them with Google Assistant. I bought a Bond , It was a little funky to setup using my Android phone but works flawlessly for me and my family!
You can also check out BOND. It does IR and RF. There's no HA integration yet, but I'm writing a component now. I've reverse engineered their API: https://github.com/danmandle/bond and will be publishing the HA component in a few weeks.
I ordered this relay module online in hopes i could use it to control the electromagnet. Would this work instead of a mosfet. I could solder the 12vDC electromagnet into the 12v adapter wires to power it and the arduino from the same source? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VRUAHLE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And this is the magnet i ordered:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JERC00S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the relay that triggers the on/off button, but any 5V relay works, it doesn't have to be high voltage. I don't know about the other one, I just found it laying around. Here's a picture of it more in focus. It doesn't have to be anything fancy, if it's rated to handle household current it's plenty good.
My fav Z-Wave motion sensor is the ecolink (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQXXG0I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Out of all my zwave motion sensors these are by far the best motion sensor I have. Only 'down side' is the detection range is sort of large for my rooms so motion is triggered from hallway when walking by.
Pros:
- Fast triggering
- Very long battery life (running same batteries over a yr now)
- Has never needed tinkering with after setup, very stable and reliable
​
Other Z-Wave motion sensors i have, ordered by best to worst imo:
- Aeotec multisensor 6 (3x) best multi sensor option imo but burns battery fast (~1-2months) (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0151Z8ZQY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
- Fibaro Motion Sensor (1x) works great most of the time, but every few months it freaks out and constantly triggers motion and needs to be removed and re-added to network. prob bad unit (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KOGDETI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
- Mono Price multi sensor (2x) very slow motion sensor detection, scan freq is low and afaik unconfigurable. bottom barrel option imo, do not recommend as motion sensors but do ok w/ temp / humidity / light but lite measurement is in a weird scale vs other lux sensors i have (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRYFE90/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
I bought 2 outlet times for 13.99 on sale off of amazon, they were compatible with the Alexis(i don't use or have one but it's useful for some), but I programmed it once through the app and it keeps the programming saved on my phone so it doesn't loose it's information if the power goes out. Timer does not buzz or making any noise really and I've had them over a year now.
Eric, just FYI this exact thing happened to me yesterday too, and I have the one channel model, this one.
P.S. - thank you for having such an amazing company and product in the home automation space.
You could try this, it's a zwave relay that you can install on dumb switches.
36kW is a huge load. Most houses average about 1-2kW. If you turn on a dryer, it might add 4kW. So, 36kW is just a massive load. It’s not just bigger than any other single appliance in your house, it’s probably 30 times the combined load of everything else in your house, all together.
By itself, it’s consuming 3/4ths of your entire electric capacity.
At the US average electrical rate of 13.2 cents per kWh, that means it costs you $4.75 per hour that it’s running.
If you are concerned about the cost, there are electrical monitoring devices you can buy, like Emporia Energy or Sense, etc.