(Part 2) Best industrial lubricants according to redditors

DON'T use vaseline for ground glass joints, it will screw you. Use a legitimate vacuum grease like this.

In addition, it's going to be near impossible to get safrole yourself, especially if you're in the US. Not only is safrole now listed as a known carcinogen, so there are no non-drug uses for it, any sale of safrole is heavily monitored by our boys at the DEA.

Even though you can synthesize safrole yourself from non-suspicious chemicals, it makes the whole process unprofitable.

PM me if anyone has questions.

I should specify that it was WD-40 branded lubricant, not the well known solvent.

Edit: Here is what I bought.

I recommend this electrical silicone lubricant.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LNPZXS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_dpDXCbTJ3QTV4

The joint will start to creak and develop a drift. Applying is very easy with the spray tube.

Ill differ from others in this thread - will Ballistol work in all firearms? Yes more than likely. Will it be 'perfect'/the right fit for all? No.

For example the M1 Garand (and most rifles with major sliding/'grinding' parts will benefit greatly from a grease instead of an oil, originally Sperm Whale/whale grease was used just as it was for the 03 and M1917. But even a new grease like White Lithium/ball bearing will help. If you want high end grease for sliding parts Lubriplate is of the same "grade" of grease as Cherry Balmz (grease comes in grades just like steel wool does) but this tub is a lot cheaper, might not smell as nice though. Not to mention a tub will last you a decade easily as its only applied to sliding/grinding parts and not drowned like an oil can be. You can use a combination of grease and oil depending on what part of a firearm is being lubricated.

The use of oils such as Ballistol or CLP etc. on the sliding components of an M1 will certainly work but will 'burn off' and not provide the same benefit as a grease. Will it work? Sure it will...but the M1, like most 'modern' firearms will work even without lubrication which, as stated, is sometimes recommended (for that particular firearm, not to be run with any lubrication for certain instances)

In an AR platform, like with a Glock, and most Smith & Wessons you will probably never notice the difference running Ballistol over CLP or over a Hoppes brand lube etc.


But like with most tools, a singular grease or an oil 'be all end all' is asking too much/you will end up with something that works but doesnt necessarily do as good of a job as a 'specialty' tool. Will you notice the difference in most firearms? Probably not. But cleaning/lubricating items are cheap and firearms are not, using the right product can, has, and will help in longevity and reliability.

I have ran a number of greases and oils for a while, from CLP, Hoppes for both cleaning and lube, Ballistol, MPro7, MPT Industries gun oil and many different Greases. High end and low end, what I would say is find the stuff that works well in your firearm and use it. If youre looking for 'general' use, I would say you probably cant go wrong with any of the mentioned oils, but you might want to consider using a grease where needed.

I didnt mention cleaning in any of this, the reason being what you are cleaning will impact how it is cleaned far more than the solvent you use. If its a Mosin you're shooting corrosive ammo out of, hot/boiling water will probably clean just as well as any Hoppes solvent or Ballistol, more so depending on how you clean it than what you clean it with, but I usually try and separate cleaning from lubricating (CLP and Ballistol will certainly 'work' for both, but will they be ideal? Really depends on that particular type of firearm you are using)

(We all have our own way of 'rolling our own', do your research and find what works best for you. Stay away from anyone who says x is the best and theres no need to try y)

Okay, I'll bite. These are all items I currently carry in my EDC organizer that are under $10.

• Uncle Bill's tweezers (definitely not in the everyday use category, but superb for that "damn I need this" category. e.g. wife with metal filing splinter)

• 16 oz Nalgene (just started carrying mine and glad I did. e.g. I need to drink more water)

• Mirror (sure you can use your phone, but I've found it handy a few times. e.g. at work place before meetings; to pick that food out your teeth after lunch)

• Toothpicks (to pick said food from teeth before meeting)

• WD-40 pen (cuz... WD-40. e.g. squeaks and stuff)

• Hand Sanitizer pen (because germs. e.g. after a BBQ Brisket Quesadilla for lunch)

• Gorilla Glue super glue (again, used a few times, but in a "save the day" type of situation.)

• Plastic or Metal Collar Stays (I always seem to forget collar stays, so I pack them in my EDC organizer)

• $10 (in cash) (I've forgotten my wallet once before—but had my EDC organizer in my laptop bag—still got to eat lunch that day)

Yes I realize 4 of my items specifically mention "lunch".

A light coating of no-ox-id will fix you up.

I use this on the power connectors in my builds, but a light coat will also preserve steel parts like those fan mounts.

Use caution, this stuff is conductive.

https://www.amazon.com/NO-OX-ID-Special-Electrical-Contact-Corrosion/dp/B00HDF9EXE

I never expected mineral oil to do so poorly.


To be fair, wd40 was kind of designed for that specific purpose (not as a lubricant either), so it should have done better.

>originally designed to be used by Convair to protect the outer skin and, more importantly, the paper-thin balloon tanks of the Atlas missile from rust and corrosion.


anyhow, I would have liked to see how militec-1 does against these.

It's what i've been using on all my stuff for years.

Agreed. WD40 is not what you're looking for. I use a ptfe silicon lube by super lube.


Super Lube 97008 Silicone... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0081JEBFC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


There is also a "dry" version of ptfe lube that is a powder in a suspension that dries quickly. Choose the best type for where your printer is. Like if it's very dusty get the dry kind.

Most oil is corrosive to iron-based metals. Use either WD-40 (good) or Renaissance Wax (better)

This is the stuff. Cheap as shit. Triple your DNA yields for pennies per sample.

Dow Corning High Vacuum Silicone Grease saved my PhD.

I haven't done much research for this application. You should absolutely make sure that whatever you buy says explicitly that it is okay to use with plastics, because a lot of hydrocarbon/petroleum-based lubes will degrade/dissolve plastics/polymers.

My five minutes of google turned up this, which is probably as good as any. You're mostly looking for something with silicone or PTFE which is plastic safe. Try not to hit your microswitches, since the lube might cause a short or open circuit. You might also consider a graphite lubricant, but graphite can migrate and is conductive.

I am not a space person. But in microfabrication, where there are lots of vacuum chambers, silicone grease are the goto. They have lower vapor pressure, and higher temperature resistance than hydrocarbon based lubricants.

Such as http://www.amazon.com/Dow-Corning-Vacuum-Lubricant-5-3oz/dp/B001UHMNW0

The contact cleaner is good for the first part, but you also need an special (note: not just any) lubricant to apply once you clean them out, otherwise they will wear out really fast and won't move smoothly.

If you can find Faderlube that is the best, but if not get something that specifically says it is for electronic components, but do NOT get dialectric lubricant. Something like this:

• http://www.amazon.com/CRC-Electrical-Silicone-Lubricant-Aerosol/dp/B000LNPZXS/

You want some good old LubriPlate 130-A. A 1 lb tub will run you about $18 and is essentially a lifetime supply. It's great for M1911 pistols too.

He never had 105 to begin with lol

https://www.amazon.com/Chemours-Krytox-GPL105-Needle-Bottle/dp/B00WE0DEKW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1543364795&sr=8-3&keywords=krytox+105

I appreciate all your info and input! So something like this? Or would any simple silicone grease work as well?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00175VGUA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8Bn8CbM3CCXAZ

How do I tell if its dry?

I bought one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RGZHFA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Looks like DuPont also carries products that are specifically labeled as "dry-film" but ???

For caked on mud? Water is the best but make sure you get something like Corrosion-X to put on your hardware so it doesn't rust. Also a compressor to air blast left over water works well. Let it dry upside down.

You can also use the air compressor to blast loose sand and dirt on the dry days. It's the best method I've found...love my air compressor.

Have you cleaned it yet? You cant go wrong with Hoppe’s solvent/degreaser

CLP would smell different tho.. some people don’t like it!

M-Pro 7 almost scentless compared to the two above, but price tag is high.

A Field Advice, treat your gun with Militech-1 conditioner/lubricant but make sure you watch a video of how to do it before you deploy it as you’ll have to heat your gun first.. you wont regret it though,

My personal opinion, Hoppe’s 9 and Militech-1 are the best combination for gun care..

This is a link for the Militech-1, it should last long time.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008YN4Q7I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_ZLDEAbA22KW4M


Cheers,

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Title | How to Remove Paint Scuffs On Your Car (Paint Transfer)
Description | How to remove paint scuffs from your car. Learn how to safely remove paint transfer from your car's paintwork without causing any damage to the paint underneath. Foam Abrasive: http://amzn.to/1r4wgDj Dash Camera I use: http://amzn.to/22BezJu WD40: http://amzn.to/1X1Expk Clay Bar: http://amzn.to/1XUcwiN Wax I recommend: http://amzn.to/1XUdviU Compound: http://amzn.to/1TYJpIw Remove Scratches from Wheels: https://youtu.be/9WQiqYlpxoY?list=PLDD611CFB36FC65F2 Top 10 Car Cleaning Mistakes: https:/...
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"Installation Cable" as you call it is generally solid core cable. It is less flexible than patch (which uses stranded wires), and is also more prone to breakage from repeated bending over time. Solid is, however, the preferred cable for permanent installtion (i.e.- in-wall). Most likely, the punch-downs on your patch panel wall jacks will be designed for solid core cable. Using stranded wire on a punch / crimp designed for solid usually ends up with a less than optimal connection. EDIT: You'll still want to use stranded cable for your patch cables / fly cables between the patch panel & switch and from the wall jacks to your end devices.

If the twisted pair cable runs close to electrical wire at any point, you should use shielded or foiled/screened cable to prevent EM interference. Foiled or screened cable protects against EMI. Fully shielded cable protects against both EMI and cross-talk between pairs-- if you're planning on running 10GE in the future, shielded cable is the better choice. Note that, in order to work, the shielding needs to be grounded properly when terminated.

Wire pulling lubricant can definitely help in tight conduit. I haven't used any of them extensively, but I know that 3M makes a decent one that can be used with communications cabling. Just make sure that it's safe for whatever outer jacket is on your wire; if the product says it's safe for communications cabling, then it's probably good.

With CAT6 (not 100% sure on CAT6a, due to larger diameters), you should be able to fit 4 cables in a 3/4" conduit with a little room to spare.

Shielded or even just foiled/screened CAT6 (assuming your terminations are done properly) SHOULD be enough to support 10GBASE-T as long as your runs are all <180 feet. Obviously, no guarantee there. Inexpensive consumer level 10GBASE-T equipment is, as far as I know, still non-existent. Unshielded probably won't work as you have 4 wires bunched close together.

No-ox-ide "a" works great for most things. It's comparable to cosmoline, but is non toxic and easier to clean off.

It does not evaporate off like lighter, thinner oils, lasts an exceptionally long time, and is relatively cheap. Cleans off readily with alcohol.

https://www.amazon.com/NO-OX-ID-Special-Electrical-Contact-Corrosion/dp/B00HDF9EXE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?adgrpid=55215169159&hvadid=274688356965&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9022081&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=b&hvrand=8174552059006629971&hvtargid=aud-676677759484%3Akwd-308474466936&hydadcr=27032_10760246&keywords=no-ox-id&qid=1566865314&s=gateway&sr=8-3

If you're looking for something even cheaper, I've had success with this lube before: https://www.amazon.com/3-ONE-120070-Lock-Lube/dp/B00R18XU7E/ref=asc_df_B00R18XU7E/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312197384056&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4051794655581705478&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9026243&hvtargid=pla-569286907361&psc=1

I have even found some of the above at my local Walmart, if you don't want to deal with shipping.

Will this one work too?
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B0081JEBFC/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1519782419&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Super+lube&dpPl=1&dpID=31WVGzn9woL&ref=plSrch

Go for it!

I used:

• X-Tronic Soldering Iron Station: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DGZFSNE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002MJMXD4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Indium Wire Solder: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003AYJWSY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Spudger: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DGNCNR0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Krytox lube: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MWLD61A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  Honestly the most important thing IMO is having a good solder sucker. The Engineer is pretty good. I've broken a few cheap ones and it's pretty annoying to be half-way through a project and have it break.
  
  The Masterkeys Pro is a pretty straight forward keyboard. Fairly standard key sizes, easy to take a part (especially with a spudger). The solder they use is a pain to remove though. Just take your time and be careful not to damage the PCB like I did.

I used this tapping bit and this cutting oil and they worked marvelously.

And to re-state the re-stated: Take your time.

Don't use WLG, I used to use that but there's so much better greases out there.
It became popular because of the easy to use squeeze tube it comes in, and the fact that its cheap.
It is better at protecting bearings than oil, but if you're going to go the grease route there's much much better options.

Schaeffers 274 is my go-to grease lately, works SUPER good. Incredibly smooth, insanely water resistant, and very cheap. Price fluxuates quite a lot, Occasionally the price will go below $8 a tube, which is more than a lifetimes supply for anybody.

3-1 oils is really good, as with any oil it needs to be re-applied frequently.

I would love some WD-40 so that I can stop my exercise bike from screeching at me everytime I pedal! Thanks for the contest :)

What about one of those WD-40 pens? Having a little WD-40 on hand, is never a bad thing.

Okay, interesting. Based in the location then, I'm guessing it's an attempt to keep the vacuumed air from getting to the electronics.

Old one is in decent condition, but definitely no oil left. Can't seem to find new ones near its size. I cleaned it up and am thinking of soaking it in maybe 75W-90 gear oil. Think that would work, or maybe just heat it up in a bit of bearing grease?

edit Now that I know what it's called and can actually search for it, it looks like some people recommend a teflon silicone lubricant for them. Got some of thislying around, so maybe will try that.

Use CorrosionX to remove the existing rust and if you replace the part, use CorrosionX on it when you replace it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AO3FHK/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

worked like a charm.

Is this the same stuff that is sold on novelkeys? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWLDCKA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7Z66CbEQVTNTQ
Edit: I think I posted this question too quick. I think this is g2 stuff. Another question, why do people not recommend 205 as a lube for beginners?

FWIW, I love my Tall Boy kettle, but I did have to invest in a step bit, a bit of cutting oil, and a bulkhead, ball valve, and thermometer and install them myself. Rough total ~$200 and some elbow grease. I also added a whirlpool return and etched some volume markings with this little guy. But I'm a big DIY-er. (and sorry for all the links)

This is the stuff they recommend for warthogs or pretty much any plastic on plastic or plastic on metal application: M-kote EM-30L.

I bought like 4oz of the stuff but still haven't tried it out. I've been putting off taking the stick apart. Someday I'll try it out though.

I tried graphite "dry lube" on an X-52 and it made it worse. Also on the shitlist is Lithium grease, it just gums up the works and makes the stiction worse.

Have you tried looking up some disassembly/teardown vids? There's plenty of them floating around for the various mods people do on the x52. A quick google led me to this: https://forums.frontier.co.uk/showthread.php/14428-Taking-apart-an-x52?p=344911&viewfull=1#post344911

Also, the really good lubes are gonna be stuff like this:

http://www.oveready.com/nyogel-lubricants/nyogel-767aa-dampening-grease-10g-tube-/prod_421.html

or this:

https://www.amazon.com/Corning-Molykote-Synthetic-Lubricant-Container/dp/B00B51C76I

A good video here.

WD40 usually works, but there are better lubricants such as Dupont Krytox PTFE.

Both good:

https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-300243-Specialist-Lithium-Grease/dp/B00L35DAWQ/ref=pd_sim_328_1?ie=UTF8

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AF0ODGM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got these lube and grease.
Krytox GPL 207 Grease, Pure PFPE/PTFE, 0.5 oz Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWLD61A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wUmCCbTXMAEDQ

CRC 05109 0.5 Ounces Technician... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CCIDAA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

The grease goes on anything metal and the lube goes on plastic to plastic contact.

This guy's channel was very helpful and informative for me! You should check it out.
/u/taehatypes
https://youtu.be/cD5Zj-ZgMLA

Im pretty sure this is it:

https://www.amazon.com/Krytox-Grease-Pure-PFPE-PTFE/dp/B00MWLDCKA/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1543400636&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=gpl205&psc=1

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I grabbed this for some locks I need to lube and wondered if it would be any good/safe to use on knives. It says safe for all metals, wood and most plastics. LINK

Oil

Grease

Would this work?

i kept digging around google and found this stuff: r/https://www.amazon.com/Corning-Molykote-Synthetic-Lubricant-Container/dp/B00B51C76I/ref=pd_sim_sbs_t_4

so far this looks even better than lithium and silicon grease!

For stabs (stab housing/stem) your best bet is krytox 205, you can get a half oz tube for 20 bucks on amazon.. That is going to yield better results, trust me..

205 is also amazing on linears.. I wouldnt use anything less or any other brand, especially a 'custom mix' that has oil mixed in...oil doesnt last as long.. you want grease because it doesnt have the fluidity of oil, lasts much longer..

https://www.amazon.com/Chemours-Krytox-Grease-Pure-PFPE/dp/B00MWLDALQ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=krytox+205&qid=1555994639&s=gateway&sr=8-3

For tactiles/clicky 202-204 depending on spring weight

https://www.amazon.com/Krytox-Grease-Pure-PFPE-PTFE/dp/B00MWLDCKA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=krytox+204&qid=1555994880&s=gateway&sr=8-3

For the stab bar inserts

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-6PK-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=permatex&qid=1555994695&s=gateway&sr=8-9&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Schaeffer-Manufacturing-02742-029S-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B00JF2LBQ6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=02742-029S&qid=1573592106&sr=8-1

Would you want to avoid a lubricant such as WD-40? I'd go with a lubricant that evaporates after being sprayed such as this brand

Is this stuff the same thing? Krytox GPL 204 Grease, Pure PFPE/PTFE, 0.5 oz Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWLDCKA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5If1DbMZBACGX
I’ve seen 3204 listed as a GPL 204 equivalent, so this would (in theory) be better right?