(Part 2) Best industrial materials according to redditors

I don't know what it's primarily used for, but it's a metal that melts at just above room temperature. You can play with a solid piece in your hands and it will melt into a puddle in seconds, it's also non-toxic (to touch at least) and you can buy it online. It will also eat through certain kinds of other metals like aluminum, if you put some on a can of soda for a while it'll go right through it. It's an interesting metal for sure.

Yep, AFCI for everything but the 30amp appliance circuits.

Here are the led's and channel:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071FT9SXK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5U2CN4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bought one of these half racks in great shape for $100: https://www.dickssportinggoods.com/p/fitness-gear-2017-pro-half-rack-16fgeufgprhlfrckxgmu/16fgeufgprhlfrckxgmu.

 

Good rack, but the standard J hooks were covered in a nasty rubber that created rubber dust when the bar slid against it. Decided to cover the J hooks in UHMW instead.

 

Materials needed:

12x12x1/4" UHMW sheet (don't buy less than 1/4" thickness since you are going to be countersinking the screw holes): https://www.amazon.com/Molecular-Polyethylene-Standard-Tolerance-Thickness/dp/B00CPRDLAW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1493150072&sr=8-3&keywords=uhmw

Drill/drill bits

Phillips #2 screwdriver

Countersink bit (1/2" works well, something similar to this would be fine, it doesn't have to be a titanium coated bit since you're only counter sinking the uhmw): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000F3SI2O/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1493158184&sr=1-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Countersink+bit&dpPl=1&dpID=51fQXRD5ZuL&ref=plSrch

A tap (I used 12-24 NC)

4 machine screws (I used 12-24 x 1/2")

Jigsaw or hacksaw (for cutting the UHMW)

 

Drill pilot holes in the J hooks, then run a tap through it to create threads for the screws. Go slow with the tap and use oil when tapping the threads. Cut the UHMW sheet to size with a saw. I tried using a hacksaw, but a jigsaw created much cleaner and straighter edges. Once the UHMW pieces are cut to fit your rack's J hooks, drill and countersink the screw holes in the UHMW. Attach the UHMW with the machine screws and you're done! UHMW doesn't work well with adhesives, so using screws is a more secure method of mounting the pads.

 

Once you've tapped the screw holes in the J hooks, it's very easy to replace the UHMW if it ever wears out. Just unscrew the old UHMW pads and attach a new pair.

If you don't mind going the DIY route, you could probably come in under $100 for parts for the strips:

• LED Strips - https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-16-4ft-300leds-Waterproof-Flexible/dp/B00KYKEUXO/
  
• Power Supply - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073QTNF9F/
  
• Wifi controller - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DY56N8U/
  
• Extension cable - https://www.amazon.com/LEDENET-Extension-Cable-Color-ribbon/dp/B00J4HI746/
  
• Snap-on Connectors - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CNYZ0NW/
  
• Channel for mounting - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LL2SLME/
  
  Instead of the flat channel, you might be better off with angled channel for mounting the strips above the cabinets, since they'll throw more light on the wall, which is what you'll actually see - https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Aluminum-Mounting-Installations-1901-V/dp/B00PJSSD7K/
  
  There's a ZWave RGBW controller but it's more expensive than the wifi one and can take some more configuration: https://www.amazon.com/Fibaro-Micro-Controller-Z-wave-Strips/dp/B00P1N68FW/
  
  If you get the snap-on connectors, I recommend putting a small amount of solder on all of the pads where you'll be connecting them on the strips, so that they make a good connection.
  
  As for the puck lights, you could probably get something like this and wire the distributor to the wifi/ZWave controller, instead of plugging it into the controller it comes with: https://www.amazon.com/Changing-Christmas-Furniture-Ambiance-Lighting/dp/B01N2I47VH/ref=sr_1_2

Picture of the setup

Im using a 20 gallon long glass tank with this surrounding the sides and back, its a perfect fit. A day night timer hooked to a non heated light. I dont use heating that sucks the humidity out of the air by using a heat pad for both hides regulated by thermostats one for each pad. Substrate I use is coconut husk, this one lasted me a whole year and people say it wont mold as easily compared to other non coconut fiber substrates. The tank itself uses a screened sliding locked lid. I cant speak for how to lock down other types of lids for tanks. The screen however I covered most of it with 3 layers of foil followed by tape around the edges of the foil to keep it attached and sealed better to the screen. A hole for the non heated light was made and I used a cut up piece of a zipblock bag along with tape to cover over the hole for humidity reasons. Finally the hides are medium sized from reptile basics, I remember when he could easily fit in the small one, was such a tiny noodle and of course a simple plastic water dish big enough to soak in and aid in humidity.

For times when he is in shed though, I lightly spray down the substrate and sides and back of the tank once a day. I think just spraying the glass walls and keeping that large surface area wet is good enough though.

Other items include thermometer, fake plants, gram scale, and one ball python

OP delivers. To answer your questions Judge

1. I had it made by a friend
   
2. It is made of custom cut leather dyed black and specially fitted Kydex molded in a press similar to this
   
3. the only tip I have is make sure it is sealed before wearing it on a hot day
   
4. total was $60
   
5. He measured and made it all in 3 days
   
6. it conceals very well with all types of shirts
   
7. It is very comfortable, wore it over 16 hours straight including 2 hours driving
   
8. Retention is perfect, the holster doesn't move at all when drawing weapon
   
9. My friend buys leather and Kydex sheets online and cuts them as needed.
   
10. You're looking at it because I posted it and you like guns and gun accessories.

> Gallium

Now I kind of want to buy some. I expected it to be irrationally expensive, but it's not.

https://www.amazon.com/Gallium-99-99-Grams-Melting-Point/dp/B00F3IXF9M

Just in case anyone would like to make their own, I found everything on Amazon except the screws and nylon belts. Those I just grabbed at Home Depot and Hobby Lobby.

Clips:

Kydex:

There are enough sheets here to make 4 belts. I took a 12x12in sheet and cut it in half for my belt.

I'm just gonna have to start recommend this to everyone with LEDs lining their ceiling. LED TRACK WITH DIFFUSER
It improves the look by 4000% at least, and is much easier on the eyes than bare diodes.

You can buy aluminum conduit with a diffuser included as well. Here's one. I like OP's idea, I might buy some myself.

Something that might help is vibration pads like these. They are real cheap and putting some under my speakers and turntable helped with the sound a lot.

I used KYDEX V Sheet - 0.118" Thick, Black, 12" x 24" Nominal, and cut it to size with a dremmel. Paid $16 for mine (currently $8 w/ FS) and it worked great.

EDIT: I noticed that the above link doesn't bring you right to the sheet I used. Make sure you change from 8x8 to "0.118" Thick, Black, 12" x 24" Nominal"

it's pretty easy to get UHMW sheet

http://www.amazon.com/Molecular-Weight-Polyethylene-Standard-Tolerance/dp/B00CPRDLAW

Gallium

https://www.amazon.com/Small-Parts-KYDEX-V-Sheet/dp/B004U6VBU8?th=1

for me, I just used a sharp utility knife and bending and it would break along the scored line.

XCEL Neoprene Sheet Tool Box... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G44LUKO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I bought this and cut it to size

You could overnight some Kydex from Amazon and put together a sheath quickly using that. It would be much easier and much quicker than anything you could do with leather, given that you don't have any leather or tools. The link above is showing 2 sheets for $10 and is Amazon Prime (so free 2 day delivery).

Got these off Amazon. They aren’t perfect by any means but I think they help.

XCEL Foam Rubber Padding - 16-Piece Acoustic Damper Anti-Vibration Closed-Cell Pads w/ Adhesive, 3"x3"x1/4" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07483R2GF?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Try McMaster-Carr or Professional Plastics
Also, Amazon

For those looking for slippy, slidey plastic, you want to search for HDPE (high density polyethelyne) sheets. I think it's the same stuff that's in plastic cutting boards, and you can buy it at big box stores like HD and Lowes.

This is actually a great suggestion, and I would add that you can use drawer liner (ANY on amazon will do, I literally picked the first link in a google search as an example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G44LUKO/ref=s9_acsd_newrz_hd_bw_bFi2V_c_x_w) as a relatively cheap and easy way to get a lot of thin foam to put in boards. Obviously you want ones that are less static-y if possible and that's harder to suss out from the descriptions but you should be able to find something.

Piggy-backing on the other comments about pinging being the result of hitting the top of the housing on the way up (clacking), there are ways to silence it, such as using Zealencios and any cherry-profile keyset. In fact, the keyset itself can affect the sound as well.

These(or similar) with this over it! Make it flush with the ceiling on one side or all sides of the room. You could also get a flat version of that to put along floorboards in hallways, and all you'd need to keep it up is some small screws. That's all I can do to help!

Either that of you could just find some paper lantern covers for your lights and put them on each bulb.

DIY technique would be use parchment paper but for a cleaner approach you could use something like this

Try looking for something similar but shorter for your use case.

Use Fimo polymer clay to extend the mouse to the size, approximate shape you want it to be.

• Wrap your mouse in cling film, making sure to allow the mouse to sit as flat as possible on a hard, flat surface.
  
  
• Get some polymer clay and on another sheet of cling film, add it to the back of the mouse to build it up to the approximate shape and size you are looking for.
  
  
• Carefully separate the clay from the mouse and harden it per the instructions.
  
  
• Now you have a rough template to send someone to model.
  
  You can also maybe find someone in your local area who is half-way good at sculpting and they can make you a hollowed shell that is lighter. When you finally get one that works, you can put custom sized teflon slides on the underside of it from this sheet.

It is not that hard to do it yourself with alum tube and connectors. All you need is a saw to cut. No welding. I imagine welding would be cheaper as the connectors can get expensive. There was a post about using steel tubing and welding. Interesting idea. I don't know how to weld but to have a welder make a simple bed frame apparently is not too expensive.

META: From a Professional welder, please consider using metal for your built rather than wood. It's smaller, lighter (per unit of strength) and won't creak.

https://www.reddit.com/r/vandwellers/comments/6pql3y/meta_from_a_professional_welder_please_consider/

Aluminum 80/20 Inc., 1010, 10 Series, 1" x 1" T-Slotted Extrusion x 97"

https://www.amazon.com/80-20-Inc-T-Slotted-Extrusion/dp/B001F0F112/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502713897&sr=8-2&keywords=extruded+aluminum+t+slot

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009YLIOV8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got one of those packs, works well with my projects.

I found better prices on amazon that anywhere else, just need patience and time to check all the options, also buy in bulk, it's way cheaper than sites that sell in packs of 100 units (rivets for example)

I wanted to share my first experience with switch swapping. I was nervous because so many people said the Leopold was hard to desolder and this was my first time soldering any thing. But it all went really well, so I wanted to share in case any one else is thinking about it plus some info that might be useful to you veterans as well.

One part of keyboard customization I don't see addressed much is deadening the ping and case sound. Some people add foam to the bottom, but I found going between the PCB and Plate reduces sound a LOT. This baby is stuffed like a turkey and sounds amazing.

I've also seen a lot of people saying how great the Engineer solder sucker is. While the build quality is nice I'm not sure its worth $25, and most of the performance was because of the silicon tip. So I just added one to a cheap sucker and it worked great. I was worried about the temp as it says it isn't rated up to 350c but it worked great with barely any discoloring, and for like $1 you get 3ft so it basically lasts forever.

​

Links -

Neoprene $12 1/8" - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001FVG3CM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Soldering Station $37 - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/STM32-T12-Soldering-Station-Electronic-Soldering-iron-OLED-1-3-Digital-station-solder-iron-tip-welding/32994824865.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7ba64c4dVrNrn3

Solder Sucker $5 - https://www.banggood.com/Sucking-Vacuum-Desoldering-Pump-Solder-Sucker-Remover-Tool-p-932434.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN

Silicon Tube 5x7mm $1 - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1-Meter-Food-Grade-Transparent-Silicone-Rubber-Hose-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-10/32986897358.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7ba64c4dVrNrn3

DSA Caps $35 - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/dsa-profile-Dye-Sub-Keycap-Set-PBT-plastic-retro-beige-for-mechanical-keyboard-beige-grey-cyan/32965815374.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7ba64c4dVrNrn3

Super Lube $5 - https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=super+lube&qid=1556304495&s=gateway&sr=8-5

​

I realized I really don't like the DSA keycap profile but this was a really nice set, pretty thick and great dye sub printing, way more crisp than my Enjoy PBT Cherry profile set I've been using.

​

I didn't have any lifted pads or issues at all despite me being a total noob. Using a 2.4mm chisel tip and my solder sucker combo worked really well. Just stuck the flat tip on flat side (top/bottom) of the soldered stem, let it heat up for about 5-6 seconds and then sucked. At 350c on my soldering Iron most guides said this was too long but i didn't have any issues, and going quicker left a lot of residue.

Also with the silicon tip I didn't have to move the soldering tip and place the sucker over the stem (doing this fast before the solder cools down is a pita) because of the silicon I just pressed it on top with the soldering iron still heating and sucked all at once. DEFINITELY worth the $1, made the process so much easier.

I also used Super Lube for all my lubing. This is what a lot of people use for the stabilizers as its really thick but then use expensive stuff for the switches. I just used a very small amount (scrape your brush off and then wipe it on so you can barely see it but its shiny). Worked great, no ping from the springs and very smooth and a $5 tube will last forever.

​

I want to do another now! need to decide on what type of switches I might like more than these super light 35g box reds. Maybe some speed switches? And I'll want to do a good solid metal case.

Overall I'm just super happy the whole thing worked without any problems. I get to use my really good Leopold plate/base/pcb (i really like the led under caps/num lock to let you know its on) with switches I like more!

​

If any one has any questions or needs help doing their first switch swap let me know, I'm 1 for 1 haha.

These can be cut.

Have you thought about getting a bunch of foam padding used for arts & crafts and stacking/trimming it to shape the wrist rest how you want it?

Something like this I just found on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01JSWJTNY/ref=pd_aw_sim_263_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VY9TK8BG80P6968YPFPK&dpPl=1&dpID=71NffsSX7nL

If you have an x-acto knife or a scalpel and some adhesive (for stacking and attaching to the palm rest) you could probably make something pretty decent-looking and comfortable.

A mellow-style base would be great. A little more ambitious than anything I'm considering. I was thinking I'd use a 1/4" thick foam rubber sheet (http://amzn.to/2qjgUz1) as a seal to attach the enclosure to a board with mild concave (e.g.: http://bit.ly/2pN70Wd)

This stuff works well

XCEL Foam Rubber Padding - 16-Piece Acoustic Damper Anti-Vibration Closed-Cell Pads w/ Adhesive, 3"x3"x1/4" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07483R2GF?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Amazon is actually pretty good for this kind of stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Molecular-Polyethylene-Standard-Tolerance-Thickness/dp/B00CPRDLAW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475004240&sr=8-1&keywords=uhmw

I've always ordered this off Amazon. $14.20 each when in stock for Prime shipping.

KYDEX V Sheet - 0.118" Thick, Black, 12” x 24” Nominal

The .093 might be easier to work with, if/when it's ever in stock.

https://www.amazon.com/Soles2dance-Various-Industrial-Strength-self-Adhesive-TEFLON-3M-all/dp/B01BTCRYCO/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_2?keywords=ptfe%2B3m%2Bsheet&qid=1555068850&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmrnull&th=1&psc=1

Awesome. Thanks. I'm pretty motivated. You think felt is the way to go? Or something like this?

If you’re in the us you could get this and it already comes with adhesive backing https://www.amazon.com/Soles2dance-Various-Industrial-Strength-self-Adhesive-TEFLON-3M-all/dp/B01BTCRYCO/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_2?keywords=ptfe+3m+sheet&qid=1555068850&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmrnull&th=1&psc=1&utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app

It looks like a piece of gray acrylic. Acrylic gives that lovely reflection on jewelry. I actually use a white piece of acrylic for my photos. You can order it in different colors on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Cast-Acrylic-Sheet-Transparent-0-118/dp/B00JB7FEEU

AmazonSmile Link: Cast Acrylic Sheet, Translucent Black, 12" x 12" x 0.118" Size

^Use AmazonSmile to donate 0.5% of your purchase price to a charity of your choice at no extra cost to you.

http://www.royalconstrictordesigns.com/ball-python-care-sheet
http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showthread.php?127203-Ball-Python-%28Python-regius%29-Caresheet

hideboxes http://www.reptilebasics.com/hide-boxes

insulation covers 3 sides of tank https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GAD5G4/

substrate https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0157O1CM8/

iv been bitten once and it doesnt hurt, id rather be bitten then scratched by a cat

i used foil and tape (outside only) to cover 90% of the screen top

I haven't flown or driven in VR on a motion sim, but have flown full-motion 6dof sims and the motion really does add to the sensations.

I keep thinking about building my own 6dof sim but was stopped by the power draw until I figured out I could charge batteries and then run the motion motors off them. Totally takes out the peak loads and still lets you run with powerful motors for the bumps and shakes.

I was thinking of going with this kind of structural aluminum (https://amzn.com/B001F0F112) since they have all sorts of lengths, it would be easy to cut, lots of fittings and brackets, and ideal to bolt stuff to.

There are also chairs available from a company that instead of rocking and tilting just apply pressure with boards and such to simulate G forces. Unlike 6dof chairs, they can apply the pressure and hold it for extended forces like driving around a skid pad. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PzwfRqSbLzo)

I'm still trying to decide which is the better way to go overall since neither is perfect. This one is about the closest to perfect I've seen but doubt my wife or bank would let me build it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cJCsomGwdk0

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001GAD5G4/ref=mp_s_a_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1510665212&sr=8-18&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=CLEVERBRAND+INC.&dpPl=1&dpID=41Z-j9IlmYL&ref=plSrch

Price has gone up. They also sell strips in 3/8, 1/4, 3/4, etc inch width which are cheaper

Used this stuff to line the drawers. It's good as a liner and not much else haha

On Amazon I bought some of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0721744QQ

My lightstrips were Sylvania, not Hue (I now regret that decision) but these quarter-round diffusers have worked perfectly. I used rubbing alcohol on them before adhering the strips to them. I also mounted them to the front of the cabinets behind the lip so the lights face the counter and backsplash - that way, if you're sitting in an adjacent room and you're low enough able to see the bottoms of the upper cabinets, you still don't see the lights themselves.

I decided to route around the microwave and no regrets there. I actually used the outlet in the cabinet above the microwave as the power source, so there are no visible wires anywhere with my installation. I then used splitters to route lights left and right from there. Hope this helps.

Have you tried covering any of the glass with foam or anything?
this is what I used on my 20g long but you should be able to use it as well.

Cover the top with foil?

I took the feet off my Prusa and set the entire frame on strips of this

Dampens vibrations, very quiet, unsure if it improved my prints

Kydex Sheets on Amazon. They're 12x12 or 12x24 and you need to cut them down.

You could probably stand on that aluminum, but that's really expensive. Take a look at these:

https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Expanded-Sheet-Unpolished-Finish/dp/B00CNLVB3E

I've made some out of aluminum sheets, and used expanded aluminum for the front and top of them:

https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Expanded-Sheet-Unpolished-Finish/dp/B00CNLVB3E

Cost me about $25 -$30 in metal, and the fab time. On the other hand, they'll last 'till the end of time......

im thinking of making the wings out of this

http://www.amazon.com/KYDEX-Sheet-0-060-Thick-Calcutta/dp/B009YLIOV8/ref=pd_sim_op_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=18FTBE14ND9CDKZA80EX

I ordered some test samples

Make one

Look around for aluminum square tube stock. The big box stores would be a start to get your hands on it easily but thier supply is meager and expensive. Perhaps welding supply shops? Hell, might even be able to find it on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/80-20-Inc-T-Slotted-Extrusion/dp/B001F0F112/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?keywords=aluminum+tube+stock&qid=1564780297&s=gateway&sprefix=Aluminum+tube+stock&sr=8-11

You can weld it or use fasteners. Cutting can be done with wood saws using the correct blade and normal safety procedures.

This Zombie Plant is pretty awesome. Galluim has an extremely low melting point for a metal and will turn to liquid in your hand! This Stegosaurus Skeleton plush is one of my favorites. I love stegosauruses and skeletons and plushes, so its a godly combination. Hopefully you're a dinosaur fan!

Got any links?
Amazon sells a 1'x2' for $40.31

A ~3mm thick 1'x2' sheet of ECONOMY carbon fiber is $111

Do it with some [cable clamps](Install Bay BCC12 1/2-Inch Cable Clamp, Black (100-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049MV0YA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_o46hDbJ3P0D7Y) should be fine if you do that a couple times or to be safe add some sort of [foam sheet](Xcel Large Neoprene Foam Sheet - 54" Wide x 12" Length x 1/4" Soft/Medium for Cosplay, Costume, Padding, DIY, and Gaskets, Made in USA, Easy Cut Technology https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JSWJTNY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_856hDbWMWPBJP) with the cable clamps or silicone the hell out of it but its messy but works.

I've used https://www.foambymail.com and was decent. I got a few feet off a roll which would more than do you for that job, but shipping might be killer since you only need a little. Whatever you do go 1/8" thick, you can always double up but you can't cut that stuff in half!

This on amazon might do what you need as well: Neoprene 1/8"

Buy

($6)Wires:For the MOFSET mod

($1o)MOFSET

($6)Wire spades:For the MOFSET mod

($8)Assorted M3 Bolts:You need some for a few mods and for the bolts you will inevitably strip on this cheap wonderful machine

($13)Longer assorted M3 Bolts:For a few mods

($9)M4 Bolts:For one of the mods

($9)Metric allen wrench set:Had to order one of these since metric tools aren’t common round these parts

(~$20) PLA of preferred choice- You’ll run out of the sample bit quick so go ahead and order a roll or two to be prepared. You will note some upgrades require ABS so a small spool of that to your order will also help.

($6)M3 Lock nuts:Critically needed for a simple mod

($10)Threaded rod and nuts:Please note that this item seemed difficult to find online. I recommend going to your local hardware store and getting two 5/16” rods of at least 16” in length. They should have an assortment of threaded rod in various lengths available. Also note that the pitch of the threading matches the nuts you buy. Further instructions regarding this can be seen in Azza’s Z-Axis braces below.)

($6)9mm Wrench for the nozzle: Don’t wait for your first clog, go ahead and have this on hand to remove/change the nozzle. Note to only tighten/loosen the nozzle when heated.



Below is the order of printable upgrades I recommend but I suggest you mix in a few other prints along the way because this is a hobby after all and you should be having fun. It helps to have your quality as tuned in as much as possible for some of these so be patient and keep trying if you need to.

Print

Spool holder- temporary : Until you can mount your spool on top of the enclosure or any other personal preference.

Belt tensioner- print x2

Z-brace

Shielded stop button

Cable relocator : It’s a pain, but if you spend the time to do this and turn your extruder motor 90 degrees then you can get the full Z height without ruining your cables. It does involve opening all the cables to the PSU and feeding a few extra inches back through the cable chains.

Cable shroud : Looks nice if you do the cable relocator.


The following need to be printed in ABS:

M3 Bed Nut retainer: 10/10 upgrade. I know they look worse than the nice metal stock ones, but these help keep your bed level longer.

CiiCooler

Glass bed Holder


Now that the first major round of printed upgrades is done it’s time to shift to a few more supplies to pick up to really fine tune the machine.


Buy

($5)Radial fan: For CiiCooler

($5)Glue sticksThis and a glass bed is magic

($25)Borosilicate glass 8” x 8”

($26)Y-Carriage plate upgrade: This has been a nice upgrade as I now only need to relevel the bed every couple weeks instead of every print. Check out this guide for a ‘how to’ as well as a free upgrade by shifting your Y pulley over.

($15)rechargeable dehumidifier: For keeping in the bin with your opened filaments

($9)Extruder gears: Might be able to hold off on these, but will need eventually. If for some reason you have a Maker Select with metal X-axis blocks (V1 and V2, but not V2.1) then this is a must. You can follow this guide for a how to.

($28)Metal extruder plate and lever: Not needed, but nice.

($14)Noctua 40mm fan: Not needed, but makes the printer a lot quitter. A LOT quieter.

($50)MicroSwiss All Metal Hot End: The destruction of my PTFE tube by this point pushed me to doing this upgrade. If needed you can follow this guide for replacement. Remember to tighten/loosen when the nozzle its hot.

($6)Ceramic cotton: Tore off the stock one when replacing for the all metal hot end by accident. At least its thicker than stock

Now that the printer is in its final form, its time for the enclosure which is a stacked Ikea Lack hack.

Print

Spool holder

Pi Case

120mm fan cover

Fan grill

120mm fan PSU modification: I edited this to fit upside down since my PSU is mounted on the underside. This was nice since I blew the 40mm fan anyways so it made everything a lot quieter than before.

IKEA Lack filament guide

Webcam holder: This is one I designed specifically for the webcam I happen to have lying around. The camera mount piece can be changed out no problem though for what ever webcam you have or buy. The SketchUp file is included on Thingiverse for such purpose.

Buy

($20)2x Ikea Lack: Luckily there is one right down the street from me. I am located in North America though, so we do not have the STUVA, if you live literally anywhere else you may check in to this as an alternative.

($80)Plexi glass for enclosure: Could be cheaper alternatives, but it looks cool

($9)Foam pads for feet

($42)Raspberry Pi3: For OctoPrint. I also suggest using a different USB cable than the stock one provided by Monoprice or you will have issues.

($9)2x 120mm fans: Used for the power supply cooling and enclosure

($6)Rocker Switches so that the enclosure fan can be on for PLA, but off for ABS

($15)Dimmable LED lights

($10)8mm LED light connectors


Total:
$250 printer + $452 upgrades/parts + ~$80 PLA/ABS to date

Thanks! Acoustically, I think the Hyperspheres made the biggest difference. I went with a really inexpensive liner ($10) so it was worth doing it. No ping whatsoever. I did two layers as the liner I purchased is a bit thin. Doing it again, I would've gone with something a little thicker like this.

Applied a piece of these right under the joycons on the carrying case. So far it's working pretty good. It gives it a nice snug fit. Would recommend this mod.

While $55 does seem a little high for a magazine release with the amount of engineering, marketing, and production the price is reasonable, especially if you do not want to register.

There is also the Patriot Mag Lock for $45 or the classic Prince50 for $17

Where are you finding grip wraps for $150? a Monsterman Grip is $45
an Exile Machine Hammerhead Grip is $30

If you want a Thordsen FRS-15 or a Hera Arms Featureless Stock Then you will be spending ~$150

Of course you could make your own Kydex grip wrap for $11 plus [hardware] (https://smile.amazon.com/Kydex-Holster-Black-Eyelets-Count/dp/B00NKOX0B4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483519643&sr=8-2&keywords=kydex) and a heat gun

OP, 80/20 (and some other vendors make this) is for sale on amazon in a lot of different sizes. The call it the "industrial Erector set." Here is one

yup, here's some basically, measure, cut, and use a riser glued to the back of the network card, or if the network card has riser slots, attach risers to those.

Cut with a hacksaw, make sure it's a bit too large (a mm or two, not too much), sand the edges with fine sandpaper down to size.

Pro tip, if it has a plastic covering on it (most do), LEAVE THAT ON UNTIL AFTER you sand the edges... makes sure the faces don't get scratched

The sheets they come with are a different type of plastic and just more flexible by nature, so the thickness isn't a good comparison.

Maybe ask these guys if they can get you a bigger piece? I think that's even thicker than what I got on Amazon (.118"). Seems expensive though. http://www.casstrom.se/en/knife-making/kydex-black-33-mm-0125-15x30-cm.html

If you haven't read, getting that Kydex sheet in to a GR2 is going to be really tough.

I'm not fixing that for me, but if i was, I would use one of the sticky pads

maybe something like this

https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Stripping-Non-Slip-Furniture-Thickness/dp/B06ZY83SZJ/

I was looking at this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07483R2GF/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1FGUTU6HPYGGA&psc=1

Would it work as well as the sorbothane or the dynamat? Its a lot cheaper than this:
https://www.amazon.com/Noico-deadening-Automotive-Insulation-dampening/dp/B01KZ5X7KO/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=dynamat&qid=1557676924&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

I think im going to buy some cellular/sponge neoprene... like this... https://www.amazon.com/Sponge-Neoprene-Thick-54-Wide/dp/B001FVG3CM

If the 100 watt 4.5 pound flexible panels are used, AL expanded metal can be attached to the 80/20 framework to support the panels.

Well, 3m velcro is what I have used. If thats not working then you need to try something else.
Is it purely attached with velcro? No screws?

I use dense black neoprene foam simular to this [Neoprene ](Sponge Neoprene 1/8" Thick X 54" Wide X 1' https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FVG3CM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Gz1BCbGD9JT3C) with double back tape on both sides. I have thicker stuff but it was free from work. I use a pwm ddc pump so it only ramps to max speed when the fans are also ramped up.

If you are using a d5 vario, does turning down to 2-3 quiet it down?

Yeah that's probably the ticket. I know where I live in the PNW USA finding old wet suits is really common. I'm assuming you're in Canada, so might be a little more tricky? This is probably way overkill (would want something 3 mil or 1/8") but is a good option.

Ok sooo... I just googled around for "frosted acrylic" as you suggested, and I did learn some things. On price, for the 4 sq ft of FA I'd need for my project, I'm looking at ~$20 for the sheet. Most offered are X by 2X dimensions, eg 24" x 48", so I'm pricing off roughly half of that.

And that's for one big piece that I'll need to cut and mount up somehow. Which I'd be willing to do if it was super cheap. However....while googling stuff this morning on your search term suggestions, I discovered THIS product on Amazon. This is absolutely perfecto for what I'm wanting to do, which is to mount the LED strips at the top corner of my 11.5' x 11.5' apartment living room area, encircling the room. These rails are V-shaped, with an inside mounting surface that will orient the LEDs at a 45-deg angle to both ceiling and walls. This is even better than the typical rails I've been seeing which all mount flat to the surface and face the LEDs straight out. Which would be ok, but the 45-deg downward angle of this new thing is perfect for lighting up the room from the top corner.

Price: Seller is selling these 1-meter/3.3' rails in 6-packs for $18.59. That's just right to do 2 walls' worth of rails since each wall is 11.5'. 3 m is just shy of 10', so splitting the difference on either end will leave like 10" of bare wall on both sides which is fine. Two 6-packs of rails then will be 18.59 x 2 = $37.18. This is slightly less than 2x the cost of the raw sheet of frosted acrylic, but for the already-fabricated rails, plus the nifty V-shaped design and ideal 45-deg angle, springing the extra $17 immediately becomes a no-brainer.

TLDR: Thanks u/lasserith! You definitely helped me get to the best answer for my little DIY project here, even though it wasn't the answer I had originally been looking for. Life's like that sometimes isn't it :)

UHMW polyethylene will work - you can cut it and dress it like wood - get a 1/2" thick piece, cut to fit the bottom of your workbench legs, countersink and screw it in place - here's a page from a bench-build that has pictures -

I used a 10" x 10" piece of high density polyethylene 1/2" sheet. Very cheap and front tire turns with zero effort.

https://www.amazon.com/Polyethylene-Off-White-Standard-Tolerance-D4976-245/dp/B00CPRDN3W

Easy enough, you mentioned that it is going on a project box.



You could either cut out the entire shape from the box, use that as a template on some translucent acrylic sheet and cut that. Do the same for the inner piece.

The only issue I see with this option is that the cuts need to be precise, in order to line up nicely. Something like Bondo could fill the gaps, if you get any.

The other option still uses the acrylic piece, but places it on top of the project box. Holes or gaps would have to be cut/drilled into the project box, beneath the acrylic.



This should be the easier of the two options. The downside here is that depending on how you place the gaps, there could be hot spots of light.

The first option provides a flush transition from box to shape, while the second has it tacked to the top. Both are viable, it just depends how much work you want to throw at it.

Something like this for the acrylic The light blue one looks close to what you have for the colour.