(Part 2) Best interior & off-road car lights according to redditors

I'm not one to tell you not to drill holes there. Hell, I've beat the crap out of my XV, I just haven't wanted to drill holes in a place like that. It looks like you have the rack and I mounted mine there.

http://imgur.com/a/lN0LH

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011VXU82O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KJ17QNO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Was just going to post my LED upgrade, though it doesnt look half as nice as this one. I used an LED bar/lamp... this one: https://www.amazon.com/YITAMOTOR-Single-Driving-Waterproof-Warranty/dp/B01A6TNWHW/

The cool thing is that I connected it to a 12 volt USB relay module which is connected to the Raspberry Pi running Octoprint. So I can use the API to make the light turn on when it begins to print.

Check these guys out.

Parts List:

• Nilight 32" light bar: $42
  
• 14AWG wiring harness: $14
  
• 1" Mounting clamps: $17
  
• OEM fog lamp switch (#H4510FJ000): ~$40
  
• Assorted wire connectors
  
• Crimping tool
  
• Heat shrink
  
• Silicone sealant
  
  A friend and I did the installation ourselves in about 90 minutes (it definitely helps to have an extra set of hands!). Here are the basic steps we followed (refer to this guide for pictures):
  
  

1. Attach the clamps to the roof basket.
   
2. Mount the light bar to the clamps (I ended up having to buy longer screws than the ones included with the light bar).
   
3. Run wiring harness out from under the hood through the drain hole (I had to slightly enlarge the hole with a drill). Slide heat shrink onto the wiring harness, then connect the harness to the light bar via crimping.
   
4. Attach the wiring harness to the battery. Test the light bar at this point to ensure everything is functioning correctly. Screw down the relay and seal the heat shrink.
   
5. Remove the rubber grommet and run the wiring for the switch through the firewall.
   
6. [Optional] The wiring harness comes with a switch, but I wanted to use an OEM switch. I connected the switch listed above to the spare foglight plug using these instructions.
   
7. Adjust light bar angle, zip tie any loose wiring and secure the wiring harness to the side of the windshield with silicone sealant (in the drainage channel).
   
   Hope this helps!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EUUNJRM?pc_redir=1411488927&robot_redir=1

Not recommending but it's an example

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HSX2846/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_KQWYDbSR2C92B

Got it Prime Same Day!

http://www.amazon.com/Road-Jeep-Light-Wiring-Harness/dp/B00D1CQVIY
the kit came with this similar layout

I am one of the luminous idiots with a light bar in my lower grill(2017 3) tied to my fog light switch.

You can do it but you need to make sure it is not pointed far forward/up. I would suggest you tie it into the fog light, but using the high beams is an option. The problem comes about if the high beam circuit can handle the additional load. Each light will add 4 watts(really 3, but add safety margin.) so a total of 8 watts and 6 amps requiring a 7.5a fuse or the stock fuse +7.5(so 20a fuse stock, 30a fuse with lights). How you can get around this is by using a relay that gives ground when the power to the high beams and power coming directly from the battery with a 7.5a fuse. So when the high beams get power, it also grounds the light pods and turns them on without adding strain to the high beam circuit.

Another option is to use the fog light circuit, this is a great option if you don't have fog lights and is easier but more expensive. You swap a stalk with fogs into the car and wire into the fog light sockets and it will turn on when you turn on the fogs. What is great about this option is that it gives you the ability to use the high beams independent of the light pods and vise versa and because it uses the stock switch, you can have a cleaner install as you don't need to put a button anywhere. You can do the relay trick if you already have fog lights.

Personally I feel the narrow style of light pod like this would look better in either the upper or lower grill as it has less of the stock grill blocking it vs the square 12 diode model you linked to. Also for amazon links you don't need anything from the "ref=" onward, so your link should look like this: https://www.amazon.com/6000-6500K-Breathable-Driving-Motorcycle-Warranty/dp/B07FNFWFDD/

I actually put one of these on the back of my truck below the bumper:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L0R5ZQQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Makes hooking up to a trailer at night so much easier (or backing down my in-laws 1600ft driveway at night). Has the added benefit of being a friendly reminder to dim your brights behind me.

Nilight Led Light Bar 2PCS 7" 51w 5100LM Black Round Flood Light Pod Off Road Fog Driving Roof Bar Bumper for Jeep,SUV Truck , Hunters, 2 years Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MNAALRC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Fy8PBb56Z10NB

A typical jack-o-lantern for candy is actually very roomy. You can easily fit what the other redditor suggested. Personally, I'd go the most simple route and even cheaper route.

You can use this Automotive LED Strip and bundle it up into the cavity of the lantern. It is easily powered by a single 9v battery. It comes in 4 strips of about 12" long. I've used 2 of these on a single 9v battery with a decently bright output. I imagine you may only need 1 strip balled up (with the LEDs facing outward) inside the lantern. The resistors are already built into the strips and the battery should last the entire day for you. Add a switch on the outside of the lantern somewhere to turn it off when you're not in any photo ops and you're sure to last the entire weekend with it.

Without seeing your actual rack it's a little hard to help. I found some bar clamps on Amazon that might work. You need to find something that will clamp onto the round part of your rack (assuming the bars of your rack are round) that has a flat mounting surface you can mount your solar panel to. Something like this. But for your size bar. I've never bought Relogy panels, but I'm sure there must be some kind of mounting holes on the back flange that you can bolt to. Use lock-nuts.

You'll be ok with one panel and one battery. If you decide you need a second one later, it does work to add another of the exact same type as long as you haven't trashed the first one. I've done it successfully.

A lot of noise is relative. The only noise it makes comes from the fan, there aren't any other moving parts, so I personally wouldn't worry about it unless you plan on leaving it running all night, which is definitely not advised with only one battery. But again, I'm no expert when it comes to inverters, so you should probably try to get others' suggestions.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DR67P9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_cfqMoXUnkXbwd

I ordered them off Amazon, went the cheap route in case I banged them on something. I also used tube mounts, which meant that I didn't have to drill the bumper.


Lights

Mounts

I would recommend for sure. Here are the ones I got... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T23H4G5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I saw it here. These are the lights themselves.

Happy to answer questions, this is all you need though you may want to upgrade the switch.

LAMPHUS CRUIZER Off Road ATV/Jeep LED Light Bar Wiring Harness Kit - 40 Amp Relay ON/OFF Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D1CQVIY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_nJMxwb0HP0PKW

LED Light Bar Nilight 20 Inch 126w LED Work Light Spot Flood Combo Led Bar Off Road Lights Driving Lights Led Fog Light Jeep Lights Boat Lighting ,2 Years Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WE47FVM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_XO8jyb00TR1KP

Probably smaller than. You want on a battle car but I have one on my '15 focus st a d I love it. Works great and I could totally use just it and no headlights.

288W 50" LED Light Bar Combo Beam for Off-Road ATV UTV SUV RV Truck Pick-up (pack of 1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAQUJ34/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_gQ8jybETDYH5B

Also got this one for my fiance's jeep and it's incredibly bright.

Okay, so, here is everything I used:

Light bar 28" flood/spot

Mount to 1" roof basket bar

Wire Clips

Wire harness, this comes with the bar if you choose the package. I ran the switch through the firewall wire grommet by cutting a hole in the grommet (BE CAREFUL NOT TO CUT ANY WIRES). The wire that plugs into the car was run under the hood and up the window, secured by the clips. I followed this guys guide, u/DauphDaddy He didn't use the same harness but its the same idea. Hope this helps!!

The lights pictured if anyone is interested.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J12TTM2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GC60QTA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Skip the single light IMO the 2 lights for $13 put out enough to make it pointless.

light bar mounts, universal 1” tube, adjustable.

YitaMotor 24” LED with wiring kit.

This is my testing set up and it works out well. I’m running the Yakima Load Warrior. Obviously the bug splatter is from last weekends road trip to Santa Cruz and back. Pretty bad wind noise at 80-85 because of the roof rack but not a noticeable difference with or without the light because it’s down so low. I am going to move the light back a bit on the bracket to keep the leverage down on the bracket. Being this low and this far back completely stops me from being blinded by the light bouncing off the hood.

I need to trim the Yakima wind deflector so it will fit with these brackets. That will drop the wind noise a bit.

Next up is removing half the interior so I can figure out the best way to run wiring into the roof rails. Want to keep it waterproof and winterproof. Not big on the standard reply of running the wires up the edge of the windshield. That’s ok for temporary but not permanent.

how about these?

24": Eyourlife 24" Off Road LED Work Light Bar Flood/Spot Combo Beam-3W ... http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D8RYGOI/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_0JgYtb16K7X5C

42": 41.5" Off-Road Extra LED Light Bar Cree - 240W Flood/Spot Combo Beam by AC AUTO http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EUUNJRM/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_HKgYtb0MA18J8

MICTUNING MIC-5DP30, SR-Mini Series 30W Single Row Cree LED Light Bar Combo Spot Flood 2700 lm, 400m Visibility, 8'' L https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L0R5ZQQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EmwhDbNXW3DF6

Here you go!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3rTd_rrxN1w



https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0151GUVBU/

Here is the mobile version of your link

All the lights are from Amazon.
Top bar
Bottom bar
Round lights

It actually belonged to my buddy in the picture before me. He got a new bumper and gave it to me and a police officer friend of mine helped me install it. My buddy paid ~140 for the light bar originally.

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KQXKG46/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_IQg9ub1C58YP9

It's a 41.5 but it's still a good deal.

If anyone is interested
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EUUNJRM/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1426045411&sr=1&keywords=led+light+bar

I'm trying to hook https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FWXT11I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 into my switch, so i can turn it on and off from inside the jeep

It works and Amazon. It's bright as fuck. I love it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NAQUJ34/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FWXT11I/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_3_w

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JUE9OLM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ok, thank you so much for your help! I bought these yesterday. Do you think these will be fine? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D1ASSY6/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Great!

You are totally correct on the safety items- I intend to finish out with a few more steel studs and round everything in so it does not catch on people walking by the parked car, or on other things I drive by.


I will be putting 205/70/r15 tires on my 195/60/r15 snow tire rims, may need to figure out how to use a spacer if they rub on various components.


Would you mind showing me some sort of poor paint sketch of what you are talking about with the hoses/oil cooler/radiators? Or link an image for that matter.


Also 3 other ideas:

1. I have been thinking about building a shitty home made PVC cold air intake (I need to replace my engine air filter anyway). Any thoughts on punching a hole in the hood and running that up in some cool and functional fashion? Recommended end cap filter I should buy? There are a lot of options here: http://www.knfilters.com/universal/universal.htm and I do not think I have any business spending more than $20 or $30 on that filter.
   
   
   
2. Any thoughts on ways to increase the rumble of the motor without risking a ticket or failing inspection? Read about putting a spacer nut before the muffler, but that can from what I have read, land you a few hundred dollar ticket in NY.
   
   
3. Looking at some external lights and these semi-junky things seem to be a nice cheap way to put some additional lighting about. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GC60QTA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A212MEDO528TGN
   
   

Sure!

Here is the link for the ones I bought, which are flood lights. They also sell these, which are spot lights, which I think I would go for if I were to do it again, as I think the floods might spread the light too much for on-road use. I'm actually considering swapping them over anyway and mounting the flood lights to the bumper to use as high beams.

I have them angled down about 10 degrees and they still shoot light pretty far up. I tested them by parking my dad's Accord at a normal following distance and seeing how much they blasted light into the rearview mirror, and my normal headlights were more blinding than the fog lights. However, I'm noticing while driving that it shoots the light very high and very far, so I think at longer distances they might be more blinding. I haven't tested it myself yet.

Thanks!

These Lights, mounted them directly with the fairing stay screw.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GJKXW8M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I ran this Kit from the battery.. needed to shorten a bit
https://www.amazon.com/KAWELL%C2%AE-Universal-Harness-Offroad-waterproof/dp/B00HMYIEGY/ref=pd_sim_263_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=51JBvFaXW9L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=5V6AJRAC87B1ABZC70GC

Bright and cheap!

I used these: https://www.amazon.com/YITAMOTOR-Single-Driving-Waterproof-Warranty/dp/B01A6TNWHW?ref_=ast_sto_dp

I don't have any experience with rock lights so I can't help. If you want something as flush as possible I would get a kit like this one which seems easier to install and more convenient.

no. the two side vents on the left and right would be better to use for this. something like this may fit. https://www.amazon.com/MicTuning-MIC-5DP30-SR-Mini-Single-Visibility/dp/B00L0R5ZQQ/ref=sr_1_25?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1510159375&sr=1-25&keywords=led+fog+lights

I had those ones off amazon as well. They where slightly warped so then I tightened the mounting bolts down it popped a weld. Very cheaply made. There are tons to choose from without the POD brackets. I added a set of brackets over my LED uprights and it works just fine.
http://www.amazon.com/KC-HiLiTES-7316-2007-2014-Windshield/dp/B00192QSVS/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462535961&sr=8-1-fkmr2&keywords=kc+highlights+jeep+bracket

Link

my friend bought it last month, he drove through Miami at night

https://www.amazon.com/YITAMOTOR-Offroad-Waterproof-Wiring-Harness/dp/B0151GUVBU/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522823412&sr=1-4&keywords=24+Inch+Light+Bar+Offroad+Spot+Flood+Combo

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FETT3FO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_RwrZBbHSZ4ER5

These work great for bar mounts

Not OP but buddy of mine has same ones.
https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Lights-Driving-Bumper-Warranty/dp/B00MNAALRC

Sure,

I got something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Zone-Tech-Flexible-Waterproof-Light/dp/B00D1ASSY6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1414545078&sr=8-3&keywords=red+led+strips

They're very easy to work with, you can cut them to the length you need and they'll still light. I used one strip per eye, put them in parallel with a single A23 battery and a switch.

If you're trying to avoid soldering that all together which would be ideal, there are some small tube things (can't think of the name) you can buy at radioshack which you feed both wire ends through and then clamp down on it with a wire crimper.

The battery did go in the mask along with the switch, both were housed in in the mouth area and fit pretty easily. A23's are pretty tiny themselves, and you can find pretty minimal battery holders like this http://www.amazon.com/5Pcs-Battery-Clip-Holder-Black/dp/B00ABRQYPM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414548326&sr=8-1&keywords=a23+holder

Let me know if I can be of any more help!

Also, they come with everything needed to wire and use except for a mount. If it is a new Wrangler built after 07 I would get these

http://www.amazon.com/KC-7316-2007-2014-Wrangler-Windshield/dp/B00192QSVS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1419017660&sr=8-2&keywords=jeep+jk+light+mount

They mount by the windshield and are really easy to install if you do it yourself. And I would recomend the spot lights. I bought the driving lights and then the spots like 2 weeks later.

Definitely. My "China-Bar" is connected with a similar harness. [This one] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D1CQVIY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_6fPXub0DJ2011 )

This is what I bought specifically so it came with a fuse and a switch. I wanted to put the switch back near the tailgate so with my tonneau cover on I can just open the tailgate, reach under the bed rail and pop the light on. But I don't think the switch is waterproof, so I might have to come up with a different placement for the switch. Everything else is wired with plenty of extra length.

Nilight 7in pods. 60 dollars but you need a wiring harness and a couple mounts but none the less a great looking mod for cheap. Plus they work well.

https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Lights-Driving-Bumper-Warranty/dp/B00MNAALRC

amazon $95 (they are even cheaper now http://www.amazon.com/Light-Combo-Off-Road-Truck-Pick-up/dp/B00NAQUJ34/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452257311&sr=8-1&keywords=50%22+led+bar)

It has lasted 2 years and has worked flawlessly. No moisture and looks identical to the ones a few buddies have that cost 6x as much. I originally bought it as a joke cause people hated them so much, but for that price and the light it puts out I can't beat it!

Just an Amazon bar. I don't do any off-roading. It's more for the curvy back roads at night. I ordered this one because it had the best reviews and least complaints about leakage. TMH® 20'' Dual Row High Power 126w Cree Xb-d SMD LED Work Light Bar 13000 Lumens https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KQXKG46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_KRcNwb28Y5Q77

I got spot beams. The light level is great, maybe even a little too bright.

Here are the guys here.

Not sure of the specific kind I bought since there are plenty of them. But these looks really similar to the ones I have.


https://www.amazon.com/Projector-Welcome-Accessories-Infiniti-Compatible/dp/B07T23H4G5/ref=asc_df_B07T23H4G5/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=351635609994&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5299553179869413201&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9025120&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-811715387444&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=76361197332&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=351635609994&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5299553179869413201&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9025120&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-811715387444

Don't think that diagram is viable for the harness that comes with the lighting system. More so if you take into consideration that OP is having problems with a simple install. As the ground goes directly to the control box itself, where there is a harness that goes from the control box to each light. OP needs to get a 2 pole switch, instead of a 3 pole. Harness should go from the battery to the control box. Harness would be to be cut, having a 2 pole switch used as an interrupt. The ground itself should be connected at the battery, considering that the picture the manufacture provided is accurate to what came with the kit.