Best internal optical drives according to redditors
We found 119 Reddit comments discussing the best internal optical drives. We ranked the 35 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 119 Reddit comments discussing the best internal optical drives. We ranked the 35 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
As someone who also likes ripping optical media: That's not the Blu-ray drive you want. Not by a long shot.
The drive you want is the LG WH16NS40 (also on Amazon), which is (by my measure) objectively the best BR drive currently on the market.
"Why should I get this drive over any other?" Three main reasons:
EDIT Also, for the love of <diety>, don't ever update your optical drive firmware.
Mac Mini (2018 model), named NOSTROMO
Mac Mini (2010 model), named SPUNKMEYER
MacBook Pro Retina 15” (2015 model), named SULACO
Mac Mini (2012 model), named FERRO
Mac Mini (2012 model), named AURIGA
Both the 2012 Minis and the 2010 Mini are completely headless. Unfortunately, this means that accessing them via remote desktop gives you a measly 800x600 resolution. I use this handy little gadget on both of them to replicate a 1920x1080 display being connected. So, when I connect via Screen Sharing I get a nice big display.
MacBook Pro (2018 model), named APLC02XV5W1JGH5
iPad Pro 10.5", named APONE
iPhone X, named RIPLEY
LG Blu-Ray reader/writer in connected to NOSTROMO via USB 3.0, used for ripping Blu-Rays and DVDs
Sabrent USB 3.0 Dual-Bay Hard Drive Dock, also connected to NOSTROMO via USB 3.0
The microphone is a Yeti Blue with a Nady Pop Filter, coupled with a Logitech HD C310, used for Google Hangouts and FaceTime calls with the fam, and the occasional podcast. It is mounted on a RODE PSA1 Swivel Mount Studio Microphone Boom Arm and a RADIUS II Microphone Shock Mount.
The mousepad is an XTracPads Ripper XXL mousepad
The chair is a Raynor Ergohuman ME7ERG desk chair
I use Dropbox to expertly keep my content in sync. Due to the amount of content I keep in there, it is well worth the $100 per year for a Dropbox Pro subscription.
Additionally throughout the house, I have...
3 Eeros for my Mesh Wireless Network WiFi System
2 Apple TVs (4K), named ASH and CALL
1 Apple TV (4th Generation), named BISHOP
1 Apple HomePod, named DIETRICH
1 Nest Hello Video Doorbell, named HELLO
1 Nest Learning Thermostat, named NEST (yeah, original af, I know)
2 WyzeCam Pans, named WYZE-Kitchen and WYZE-LivingRoom
4 WeMo Smart Plugs, named WEMO-Foyer, WEMO-SpareBedroom, WEMO-MasterBedroom, and WEMO-LivingRoom
1 Amazon Echo Plus, named ECHO-LivingRoom
2 Amazon Echoes (First-Generation), named ECHO-MasterBedroom and ECHO-Kitchen
2 Amazon Echo Dots, named DOT-Office, and DOT-SpareBedroom
4 Google Home Minis
1 Brother HL-L2395DW Wireless Laser Printer, named LV426
1 PlayStation 3 Slim 120 GB, named HICKS
I have a total of 31 IP reservations according to my Eero app. This makes it a lot easier to manage my network, set up port forwarding, etc.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blu-ray_Disc_recordable
Go ahead buy one
Discs are right here
I remember seeing them on the shelves of Staples when I worked there 10 years ago.
> I want to play co op lego games with my nieces and nephews, I want to play split screen with my mates, then watch a bluray with my mrs of an evening
Lego with the little guys? Got it! Even checked to make sure they were local co-op.
http://store.steampowered.com/tag/en/LEGO/#p=0&amp;tab=NewReleases
You'll probably have to go a bit outside your comfort zone for local co-op with friends, but that is also a dying feature for consoles too. However, if you're cool with some indie games... Gotta recommend Samurai Gunn specifically. That game is god damn amazing! You and your friends will fuckin' die laughing while you deflect bullets, cut off each others heads, jump up walls, get impaled on spikes, and crushed by big ass boxes.
http://store.steampowered.com/tag/en/Local%20Multiplayer/#p=0&amp;tab=NewReleases
Blu-Ray? Got it!
http://www.amazon.com/LG-Internal-UH12NS30-Blu-ray-Optical/dp/B00DVTBM2W/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464408621&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=blu+ray+drive
> I want to do this on the big screen, in the living room, on my couch not alone at a desk in another room on a smaller screen
BAM! Use the controller you already have. Wireless from the couch, no problem. Just plug it in and go.
http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Xbox-Wireless-Adapter-Windows-one/dp/B00ZB7W4QU
Use an HDMI cable to plug that bad boy up to your TV, son!
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-Standard/dp/B014I8SSD0/ref=sr_1_3?s=videogames&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464408385&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=hdmi+cable
Need to use the mouse for a second while your on the couch? Shit, we got you!
http://controllercompanion.com/
And if that ain't enough, wireless keyboard and mouse is like $20.
> I want to swap games with my friends
Yeah, bro. Us too.
http://store.steampowered.com/promotion/familysharing
> I want to play offline
Got you fam.
https://support.steampowered.com/kb_article.php?ref=3160-agcb-2555
> I want to buy discs
Then buy them. Amazon and Gamestop and every other big store sells discs too.
http://www.walmart.com/browse/video-games/pc-games/2636_1077504_1225011
http://www.target.com/c/pc-games-video/-/N-5xtfw
> I want to do all this quickly, easily and consistently and I don't want to spend a months wages, and more every 6 months, to do so
Building the computer is as simple as building a lego set. It takes a couple hours to initially set up, but it only needs done once. After that, it's just as easy as pressing the home button on your xbox to launch steam big picture and choose your favorite game to play.
PCs will be more than a console upfront. You will spend more than $300 on a PC, but not much more unless you want to. If you factor in the price of a couple games and a year of XBOX live or PSN, PC is already cheaper.
Plus, where are you going to find sales like this? http://www.gameois.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/steamos-sale.jpg
They happen damn near constantly on PC. New game you want isn't on sale? No worries. Green Man Gaming has a 20% off coupon every month that can be applied to any game they have. Save yourself $12 right there without even needing a sale.
You don't have to upgrade any more frequently than you want. The consoles are on 2012 tech. Games will stay with that as a baseline until new consoles come out.
All that said, look here for a parts breakdown with prices of various price ranges: https://www.reddit.com/r/PCMasterRace/wiki/builds
I'd recommend The Crusher as a baseline, then maybe asking over at /r/buildapc if you need help or want to make changes. I know you said you don't like PCMR, which is fine... The circlejerk gets old for us too... But there a ton of great communities on reddit for this. Maybe try /r/pcgaming as it's a bit more mature.
One thing I will say about PCMR is that they are most goddamn generous sub out there. Constantly giving away games, components, monitors, etc. and surprisingly helpful, but you do have to get past the kids and the circlejerk to see that.
If you do decide to look into, like I said, /r/buildapc is a great resource to start and you can also free to PM me if you'd like.
Have a good one, brother!
I bought this one for delivery in the USA last year, works fine.
LG Electronics WH14NS40 - $59.99
It looks like the price went up since last week, but here you go.
LG Electronics Blu-ray/DVD Writer Optical Drive - WH16NS60 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079LR2Q67/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nVWCDbWRANBF4
This is one of the ones with a firmware change will allow you rip 4K Blu-rays if you wanted to.
i have this one it works well. i need to get a new motherboard before i can play 4k content. but for everything else it works well.
Pretty sure all the highest quality drives are still 12x/8x. The actual rip time will only vary by a few seconds so don't put too much time into research unless you need a bunch of other features. If it's just a ripping drive all you need to do is make sure it's 12x/8x (unless there are faster drives now?) and that it doesn't have riplock.
I have the ASUS BC-12B1ST and a Pioneer BDR-208DBK (no longer available) both of which do not have riplock.
I should add the ASUS has a very short depth. So if you don't have a ton of room in your case it's a great option. I originally got it for a Antec P180 Mini since there wasn't much room between the big top fan and the top 5.25 bay.
I got this one from Amazon, seeing discs rise like they do from the case would have been so cool in the 2000's. I got the Blu-Ray one though which is more expensive but they have a DVD for $60, which is pretty good considering the case.
I know of them, it's not my favourite idea. I prefer to keep it self contained, though it wouldn't be hard to just stuff it elsewhere on my desk when not in use.
One thing that's not entirely applicable is that we make fun of apple products for removing functionality from the device and giving it back as a dongle/adapter. But remove CD/DVD drives from PC's and use external ones.
It's not a 1:1 comparison though because apple does it to make their computers more unnecessarily thin as well as to sell you more of their overpriced shit, and PCs do it for more fans or other internal space.
Also, I'm not sure how an external blu-ray drive works. But I know you can get VLC to play discs off internal blu-ray drives, and the ability to quickly take snapshots like this at source quality using VLC without having to faff about with other shit is one thing I particularly like having.
At the end of the day it comes down to personal preference, and my personal preference, outdated and impractical as it is, is to have it all internal rather than external.
EDIT: After checking the cost of an external blu ray burner, they're almost double the price of an internal drive as well.
Yep this, to add more to this I was able to use the ASUS flashing application found here (LG and ASUS drives only) on this drive. Good luck!
It is a type of optical media, there are DVD versions and bluray versions. Basically rather than a laser burning the organic dye stuff for a normal one, it is a slightly stronger laser burning a rock like material. It is supposed to last at least 1000 years.
You can get it off amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-Internal-Rewriter-WH14NS40/dp/B007VPGL5U
https://www.amazon.com/Verbatim-M-Disc-BD-R-Branded-Surface/dp/B011PZALWA
There have been some reports of things going strange with the multilayer, so I only trust the single layer (25GB) discs.
Edit: switched amazon link to write drive. linked to dvd only one at first.
There's very few out there that are UHD compatible.
Here's two that are official UHD drives:
LG BU40N
LG BU50N
Alternatively, you could buy an external USB3 model and just take it out when needed. Although I think this one would only be good for ripping/decrypting since it's not an 'official' UHD drive.
LG BE16NU50
You could also get an external enclosure like the one below and pair it with any of the confirmed UHD compatible 5.25" ODDs.Vantec NST-536S3-BK NexStar DX USB 3.0 External Enclosure
I was on the hunt recently for a slot-loading UHD compatible drive instead and that seems to be non-existent :(
There's a YouTube video regarding UHD ripping that uses an internal Bluray player such as [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/LG-WH16NS40-Playback-Essentials-Software/dp/B00IIXLKKU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523135219&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=internal+bluray+drive&amp;refinements=p_89%3ALG) In fact, I think that's one of the model numbers listed. You will, of course, need a powered SATA to USB adapter but at the end of the day, you'll be cheaper than your original solution.
It's just not pretty.
i have the optical drive on my desk since my case doesnt have a place for it
i have this drive with this sata to usb powered adapter, literally haven't had a problem with it for over 2 years now
keep in mind also that the original quality rips off the blu ray are going to be massive in file size, i'd very much recommend picking up an external HDD as well to store files if u plan on running something like plex, or go balls deep and build an entire server like i did
Something like this
https://www.amazon.com/OSST-Internal-12-7mm-Blu-RAY-Optical/dp/B0757L7J3C
Right now I'm running an Asus BC-12B1ST. I'm fairly sure it causes sleep problems, but other than that it works well. The only way to play blu-ray movies on OS X is by buying a commercial blu-ray player.
Form what I've read, the most compatible drives are Sony Optiarc drives, and some LG drives. There was a chart floating around somewhere with a list of suggested drives, but I can't find it.
Edit: Found it http://legacy.tonymacx86.com/wiki/index.php/Optical_Disc_Drive_Database
I just finished my 804 build and this is the drive I picked up. It's a little pricy, but I got it on sale and it comes with Bluray software and a nice sleeved sata cable. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BY3LCLI/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?qid=1422408530&amp;sr=8-6&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41syly7ywbL&amp;ref=plSrch
Try the Silverstone SST-SOB02
Sure, happy to help!
No need to spend extra on a heatsink- retail CPUs come with excellent ones. You can scrape of the thermal material they ship with and use Arctic Silver or the like for a small boost in performance.
Nothing wrong with the power supply you chose, but one with removable, flat cables would be easier to work with. Not a game-changing issue at all, just a nicety.
2242 to combo https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61pOQRWrMyL._SX425_.jpg it's 84mm x 25mm x 8mm.
Google 32965693821 for cheap price.
https://www.amazon.com/Transcend-TLC-NAND-2242-SATA-mts420s/dp/B076P63R3N 120 GB. The whole thing will be <40 USD for a 120GB combo stick and be SATA SSD speed.
https://www.amazon.com/Transcend-256GB-MTS430S-Solid-TS256GMTS430S/dp/B07KG2KFSX/ 256GB version here.
For the best experience, invest in https://www.amazon.com/Innovation-Cooling-Graphite-Thermal-Pad/dp/B07CKVW18G as well. I believe it will fit and transfer the heat to the body. I haven't yet tested this myself but I intend to.
Couldn't you get one of [these?](http://www.amazon.com/Asus-DVD-ROM-Internal-Blu-Ray-BC-12B1ST/dp/B004SUO068/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1394905004&amp;sr=1-
1&keywords=blu+ray+drive)
1600 Mhz is obviously better, but 1333 will not hinder your performance at all. If you're willing to spend a few bucks more on 1600, by all means do so.
These are cheaper than the Hyper X Fury, but have lower latency.
This drive should be good for blu-ray.
Unfortunately that seems for me £57.95. That's $81.47. Or at least the one I think is the UK Amazon equivalent. The original price was already pushing it. I may have to find another.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SUO068/?tag=pcpapi-20
The WH16NS40 will do 4K as long as you roll back the firmware. If you wanna make the internal drive an external one of these would work. I use it to make internal HDDs external as well.
For more info, check out the Ultimate UHD Drives Guide from MakeMKV's site.
I would wager it is the PCB out of this optical drive. Can't confirm for sure without taking one of those drives apart, though.
Control board for this TSSTcorp optical drive.
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toshiba-samsung-TS-H493A-Computer/dp/B00K9NMKC4
Formfactor is a given...
What you are describing is a typical slimline ODD. (And that's what the Envy uses.)
So, given the formfactor assumption... any ODD (That fits) will work.
Blu-Ray
4K Blu-Ray
I cant say for sure as I have never changed the disc drive of my PS4, but apparently each Bluray drive has its own unique identifier that the motherboard checks for. If you are using third party drives, they probably dont have the appropriate identifiers which then makes the motherboard to reject the new drive. This also applies to the PS3, but I have replaced the bluray drive of my PS3 with no problem.
The drive I bought adviced to use the old drive's circuit board (my new one didnt even come with any board).
So what Im thinking, is that if you end up buying this, you would need to take it apart and take the new drive's laser deck and put it inside your original disc drive's assembly. The laser deck is "dumb" and only reads transmits the data, so the hardware check of the console shouldn't cause any issues. The PS4 only checks the circuit board that you connect this new laser deck into.
Do consider that when you change the laser deck, you have to pull a couple of ribbon cables more than with the laser assembly. Ribbon cables can at times be a bit fragile and hard to fiddle with.
The laser deck I linked is just an example, but every laser assembly has this thing inside. I think you should only buy the whole assembly if the disc insertion and eject system is broken, to use the new one as spare parts.
The plastic part just looks like part of a Dell D600 DVD drive. (With a cutout made for the SATA power+data)
http://g01.a.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1h9Z7IXXXXXa3aXXXq6xXFXXXE/DVD-to-HDD-SSD-Module-2nd-HDD-SSD-Hard-Drive-Caddy-Enclosure-for-Dell-Latitude-D600.jpg
You can just measure the size of the drive yourself and do the cuts from that and then test fit it.
They even have the dimensions on the amazon page. Albeit probably not to the accuracy you need hence why you would need to measure it.
http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-12-7mm-Interface-Blu-Ray-SOB02/dp/B00BY3LCLI
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BFU652G/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_147_3?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41hPSN2w19L&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C75_&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=GGVSSYQX07FRDB2DQNJ6
I found this, but I'm not sure if it will work for you. Are you putting it in a laptop?
This is the one I got earlier this year. It’s an American seller so it got here quick and it’s read every disc I’ve popped into the fat with no problem. There’s 2 anti-static points you have to desolder before installing but that’s typical of this model.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07JFF21R4?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Blue Ray optical drive is 30$ + 60$ controller is still only 390$. Still 10$ cheaper than a ps4, and you don't have to pay monthly for multiplayer/online gaming. The steam machine also has better hardware. Steam machine wins in both affordability and specifications.
Link to an external blue ray player: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DVTBM2W/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1409090791&amp;sr=1-1
This one has served me very well. Used it for many blu ray burns of home movies. I used a re-writable disc as well as dual layer discs.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E7B08MS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499913443&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=lg+blu+ray+burner+m.disc&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=416X3wRYtzL&amp;ref=plSrch
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRJ9SDG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Seems like the specific one I bought is out of stock right now, but there should be others.
Yeah, I bought the LG one haha. Would something like this or this drive work?
100GB triple layer and 128GB quad layer cost extra: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079LR2Q67/
unfortunately the drivers and SW bundle are for Windows.
Just tried holding it down no dice man its fubar won't even read the disc and thanks for letting me know which one to get huge help from you.
New - Sony PS3 Bluray Drive - 120, 250 GB Slim Models - (KES-450A/ KEM-450AAA Laser) + Nextek® T8 Security Screwdriver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRJ9SDG/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_Uuf0tb1CG6PKGJ2Q
That's the one I was looking at before asking.
He said he used the PcGamer High end build guide with some changes. He swapped the 1080 to a 1070, the SSD's to a 1TB SSD, he changed the case to a MasterCase Maker 5 Mid-Tower and ordered everything form Amazon
So overall I'm guessing this is his build;
Coming to a grand total of 1945$ add shipping to that and you're looking at pretty close to 2 grand.
This build is fucking retarded though.
First of all, you can actually buy a a goddamn prebuilt with almost the same specs for about 400$ cheaper. That HP is just the first one I found, there are dozens of other prebuilts ranging from about 400-100$ cheaper with no real performance loss.
Yeah it's a prebuilt and has bloatware and all that shit, but in terms of performance it's actually pretty much equal to the authors build.
Second, you could just go for a more reasonable part list.
Swap the 6700k to an i5 6500 with the stock cooler and you'll cut 250$ from the price.
Even an i5-6600k with a hyper 212 evo would cost you about 260$, saving almost 200$
Swap the ridiculous motherboard to something decent for about 100-150$ and you're saving another 100$ right there.
32 gigs of RAM is overkill, you could easily go for 16GB DDR4 2400, and save another 70$
Dump the optical drive, who the hell watches BD movies on a PC anyways? If you really need a DVD drive they're like 20$
Swap the ridiculously high end case to something like Fractal Design R5 and save another 50$. R5 is still an excellent and fairly high end case, you could easily go for a 50-80$ mid-tower and save 100$.
I would also swap the 1TB SSD to a 256gb SSD and a 2TB mechanical drive which would be about 160-200$ saving him another 100$. but I can at least understand that someone wants the simplicity of just having a single drive.
With a few simple changes he could save about 450-650$ without losing any performance whatsoever in gaming, and that's without hunting for cheaper prices from somewhere that's not Amazon.
He said he paid about 100$ extra to buy everything from Amazon, so with an updated parts list and using PCpartpicker the price drops down to 1171$ so about 770$ cheaper than the authors build and with no real performance loss.
I've been on vacation or I'd have responded sooner, apologies for that.
I rip all my movies with makemkv. I'm basically watching the movie as if it's straight from the disc, just ripped directly and wrapped in MKV.
I have watched directly from the drive using leawo blu-ray player. Wideasfcuk talks about it on youtube.
And this is my bd drive.
Hope that helps
Optiplex:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Optiplex-7010-Core-i5-3470-3-4ghz-16x-DVDRW-NO-HD-MiniTower-Computer-used/223597044587?hash=item340f6c236b%3Am%3AmmCYchPZralPc3FUgpohyCw&amp;LH_BIN=1
Blue ray drive:
https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-Internal-Rewriter-WH14NS40/dp/B007VPGL5U/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=blu+ray+drive&amp;qid=1564694274&amp;s=gateway&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;sr=8-3
Total is ~150usd
First time PC Builder, are my parts compatible? Am I missing anything?
Part | Item | Price
---|---|----
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO | $32.00
Motherboard | ASUS ATX DDR3 1800 Motherboards H170-PLUS D3 | $117.91
CPU | Intel Boxed Core I5-6400 | $242.99
Graphics Card + PSU Combo| XFX Radeon RX 480 | $389.98
RAM | Kingston HyperX Fury 16GB Kit (2x8GB) | $87.99
HDD | 2 x WD Blue 2TB Desktop Hard Disk Drive | $95.50 each
OS Drive | Corsair Force Series LE SSD, SATA 6Gbps 480GB | $142.49
Sound Card | Sound Blaster Z PCIe Gaming Sound Card | $129.98
Case | Corsair Carbide Series SPEC-02 Mid Tower | $74.99
Optical Drive | LG Internal UH12NS30 BD-ROM | $56.99
PS: a suggestion for a black and red motherboard at the same price or lower would be much appreciated!
Shoutout to /u/spamsince, /u/Cerelius_BT for assistance with this build.
The good news is that the discs that came with the hardware are obsolete and the updated software is available for download on their sites.
The bad news is some software, depending on the vendor, must be installed from the included disc because they do not offer a replacement on their site (to minimize how many people who don't own compatible hardware try using it). Creative and Canon with their DSLR's are two examples where proprietary software is exclusive to their included media and the website merely offers patches.
Also, your OS is downloadable and can be very easily installed to a USB drive of 8GB minimum capacity (it will be formatted to FAT32)
With the spare storage on the USB drive, I would create a folder and place all your driver downloads there UNcompressed and sorted so your OS can find them when you point to it.
If you are installing Windows in new hardware, remember to boot off the USB drive in UEFI mode (use opportunity to ditch MBR). After pressing the appropriate key on startup to dictate the boot device, look for UEFI next to the USB drive. Desktop motherboards allow you to boot with the typical BIOS/MBR method or the UEFI/GPT method without having to make any modifications, whereas laptops may require you disable "Secure Boot" before permitting booting
Finally, remember to save this drive in a safe place for future use. Like in your motherboard box.
That being said, if you still want to get an optical drive, here are five options:
From Amazon's product page, it says the WH16NS60 supports 100GB triple-layer discs. I've seen some 4-layer 128GB discs on the market; I wonder if it can support those?
I've already bought 2 optical drives for my new PC I recently built.. I bought the WH16NS40 because I couldn't rip UHD movies with the first drive I bought.. I wish I had found the NS60 earlier.
any clones that have better recommendations ?
https://www.amazon.ca/Tangxi-Simulation-Dreamcast-Generation-Replacement/dp/B07SBW9VRP/ref=sr_1_5?crid=7FET90B3GHNC&keywords=dreamcast+gdemu&qid=1568199486&s=gateway&sprefix=dreamcast+g%2Caps%2C137&sr=8-5
yeah I agree I like them being cheaper but I also want to make sure I get a board that works
I'm looking to buy a bluray burner/player for my pc recently. I was looking at this How do region codes work for internal drives? Is it possible to region unlock drives?
I have the first gen of this drive and I've ripped UK locked Blurays as well as US, and its never asked me about the region. I'm using MakeMKV and Handbrake. Maybe BluRay player software will ask you to switch, but MakeMKV doesn't (at least not with the drive I'm using).
If you ask a question, and someone answers it correctly, reply with a thank you, but include this checkmark: ✓ ( or if you cannot enter Unicode, use
!checkinstead )This will score the user whose comment you replied to a 'point'. Currently the points will unlock special flair that will show in all Daily Simple Questions threads.
NOTE: The confirmation message has been removed. The points are still granted, PCMRBot will no longer reply.
In case you missed it, click here for yesterday's Daily Simple Questions thread.
There may be some questions still unanswered! Below are a selection of questions with no replies. See if you can help them out.
If you don't want to see this comment click the little [-] to the left of my username to collapse this comment.
----
> Can anyone recommend a good repeater/extender that they are confident will work with an Apple Airport Extreme Router?
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6cgpco/daily_simple_questions_thread_may_21_2017/dhuv5r5
----
> To anyone who've ordered through NewEgg Canada via Interac Online, how was your Experience(s)? I'll be ordering a new GPU to replace the one in my prebuilt in a few days & Interac Online is the only way for me to pay (sucks even more as Newegg is the only PC place in Canada that accepts Interac Online; I've tried applying for a CC via RBC; got denied as my wage is too low (I'm on PDW Benefits & get ~$1034 a month from the government)
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6cgpco/daily_simple_questions_thread_may_21_2017/dhviqle
----
> Recently installed Win10's creator update, and everything's been running mostly smoothly. I went to go play DOOM 2016, and when I entered the campaign, I noticed that my escape key wasn't working. The key works in Windows, and all the other programs I tried using it in, without any issue at all. The binds in DOOM are fine.
>
> What could be causing this?
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6cgpco/daily_simple_questions_thread_may_21_2017/dhvr3vj
----
> I'm looking to buy a bluray burner/player for my pc recently. I was looking at this How do region codes work for internal drives? Is it possible to region unlock drives?
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6cgpco/daily_simple_questions_thread_may_21_2017/dhvtxkq
----
> I'm having an issue where where my color settings in the Nvidia control panel reset whenever I leave a full screen window. The sliders and settings still look the same, but nudging one of them will make it go back to normal. Does anyone know how to fix this?
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6cgpco/daily_simple_questions_thread_may_21_2017/dhvu2iu
----
> When will I be able to afford a 144hz 1440 1ms monitor without having to sell off my liver?
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6cgpco/daily_simple_questions_thread_may_21_2017/dhvwby3
----
> Ok
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6cgpco/daily_simple_questions_thread_may_21_2017/dhujhrm
----
User | Points
-----|-------
badillin | 432
Sayakai | 285
Luminaria19 | 213
thatgermanperson | 155
motionglitch | 155
saldytuwas | 118
rehpotsirhc123 | 97
095179005 | 92
thecolonelofk | 90
glowinghamster45 | 73
----
I am a bot - This action was done automatically. Please direct any questions or concerns ( or bug reports ) to \/u\/eegras - About /u/PCMRBot
Yes, the case is what is keeping ODs from populating on PcPartPicker. If you want an optical drive you'll need to either buy an external usb powered one or find a case with a 5.25" bay. I have the Phanteks Enthoo Pro M with tempered glass side and an LG blu-ray drive. One similar to this one.
From what I could tell when doing some research while I was building my system most external drives a far more expensive than internal, but those are American prices. Don't really know about UK or Euro prices.
Sorry if this isn't the right place for this.
One of the only PS3 games I really care about is Midnight Club LA, I got a disc copy of it earlier to use as a kinda sorta benchmark game. It's listed as "Ingame" on the compatibility checker, but I've gotten nothing.
I just this error: "E LDR: Invalid or unsupported file format: C:/Users...dev_hdd0/game/PS3_GAME/USRDIR/EBOOT.BIN" when I try to play it.
I've installed the PS3 firmware, and I'm using the latest version or RPCS3 from github. I feel like I'm just an idiot and I'm just not realizing something, so if someone could tell me what I'm missing, that would be great :p
I'm using an [LG WH16NS40] (https://www.amazon.com/LG-WH16NS40-Internal-Blu-ray-Rewriter/dp/B00E7B08MS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491537583&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=lg+wh16ns40) to rip the ISO, not sure if that matters.
Seriously? There are tons of them available under $100. Here is a brand new one for $40
https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-Blu-ray-Writer-UH12NS40/dp/B01IL02TUE
I have this LG and never had an issue with it. Looks like Amazon no longer sells it but there's a newer version.
https://www.amazon.com/Asus-DVD-ROM-Internal-Blu-Ray-BC-12B1ST/dp/B004SUO068/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487206511&amp;sr=8-11&amp;keywords=pc+dvd+drive
I bought this one and downgraded the firmware:
LG WH16NS40 Super Multi Blue Internal SATA 16x Blu-ray Disc Rewriter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E7B08MS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CwwYBbYXAYDZ7
Googe for instructions.
I have not actually ripped a UHD disk yet. I bought it mostly because my old DVD player broke.
Ah. No BD-ROM drive on my computer.
Looks like they're still about $60. (Amazon link, no referral.) Last I heard, computer Blu-ray drives can't even play Blu-ray movies, at least not for free, you have to pay for a decoder. Computer Blu-ray drives are just used to burn data discs at up to 25GB per, but due to the costs involved, flash drives are a better deal 100% of the time, considering only a Blu-ray drive can read the created disc. Read and write speeds are super slow. A 32GB flash drive is cheaper and reads and writes faster, and works on virtually all computers, and Android phones with an adapter.
Getting real technical here, but I think an Android phone could read data from a Blu-ray data disc if you had an external burner/reader that used USB and you have the adapter. You run into two problems: one, is the Blu-ray drive getting enough power? Maybe a splitter is needed. Two, does Android have the drivers? Before you say "probably not," consider that it does have mouse drivers and if you connect a mouse the same way, you get a pointer. Android uses the Linux kernel, which supports a lot of hardware.
I personally wouldn't use AMD CPUs and just grab the i5-4690K. You want at least 8GB of RAM if you're building a gaming rig. The VRAM makes up for it a bit, but some games just need that 8GB. You don't need a Hybrid drive. They aren't that great and you have a SSD anyway. I would replace the storage options with a 250GB SSD + 1TB HDD. Having a liquid cooler CPU is fine but that seems expensive. The H100i is popular and you'll get the same results. What game do you plan on using 3 R9 290s? I would just get 2 GTX 970s and SLI them or just a GTX 980. You save money in the long run too since they have less power consumption, especially against 3 R9 290s. If you do get 2 GTX 970's or a 980 instead, switch up the power supply to maybe a 750-850W. You won't need the extra power. The optical drive is also really expensive. If you insist on getting a blu-ray optical, the LG is only $40.00 on Amazon.
I have one that I can no longer put inside my new case (opted for no 5.25" bays this time). I never thought about selling it because I wasn't sure if I would get an external adapter, but I don't actually think I'll need it. It's an LG (pretty sure this one). What are you looking to spend?
EDIT: You can PM me if you want.
Is this drive better?
https://smile.amazon.com/OSST-Internal-12-7mm-Blu-RAY-Optical/dp/B0757L7J3C
The budget is 1000 and I have 60$ wiggle room on the gpu
Cpu:
AMD FD6300WMHKBOX FX-6300 6-Core Processor Black Edition https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009O7YORK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_F4k.ybXJ9MNX6
Mobo:
ASUS M5A99FX PRO R2.0 AM3+ AMD 990FX SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008B6ONXK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_k5k.ybM4T8KD8
Ram (gonna get double this):
Kingston HyperX FURY 16GB Kit (2x8GB) 1866MHz DDR3 CL10 DIMM - Black (HX318C10FBK2/16) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J8E8Y5C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_35k.ybSB444ET
Power supply:
EVGA 700 B1, 80+ Bronze 700W, 3 Year Warranty, Power Supply 100-B1-0700-K1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018JYHBE6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_z6k.ybFG0BH23
Disc drive:
Asus Black 12X BD-ROM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-ROM SATA Internal Blu-Ray Drive (BC-12B1ST) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SUO068/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_86k.yb64XN6SJ
And then the hard drives and case fans etc
$43 new on amazon
https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-Blu-ray-Writer-UH12NS40/dp/B01IL02TUE
Looks pretty sweet, however:
and then you throw one of these in and beat out any console compatibility with all disks
It doesn't tell you what drive dimensions it's designed for. How lame. You could contact them.
But since you're also restricted to mATX if you use an optical drive, you should totally get a SilverStone FT03 :) And you'd know for sure these would fit: http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Interface-Drive-Optical-SOD02B/dp/B004X9PHFC/ or http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-12-7mm-Interface-Blu-Ray-SOB02/dp/B00BY3LCLI/
You can get a portable USB DVD drive like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-Portable-External-GP65NB60/dp/B00ODDE33U/
They are small, and easy to swap between machines.
However, I don't do that. Personally, I use one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Benfei-Adapter-Compatible-Optical-Support/dp/B07JGT17B8/
to connect my old Bluray drive to my PC whenever I need to:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007VPGL5U
It is much faster, but the trade off is that requires wall power and is larger.
It would be nice but no. If you do end up getting another drive for this, I have one of these and it's been working fine.
LG Electronics 14x SATA Blu-ray Internal Rewriter without Software, Black (WH14NS40) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007VPGL5U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_J6SMAbBQ0D9NJ
I want to know if it's possible to use an optical drive with this case?
Specifically I want to use this drive
If not can you recommend another simple black case in the same price range with an optical drive?
Thanks a lot!
Edit: Never mind I figured out that it does work. Thanks!
ASUS do a reasonably cheap blu-ray drive for around $60.
Notice: I was doing a rough price estimate for you on what I could get where I live. Prices listed are for example and my not be available in your location. I am not recommending any of these parts this is a quick and dirty price / parts example.
($50) Case: Same as listed in OP
($90) Motherboard: Same as listed in OP
($199) CPU: Same as listed in OP
($40) Heat Sink: Same as listed in OP
($80) SSD: Same as listed in OP
($99) OS Windows 10 Home: Same as listed in OP
($60) Power Supply 500W: Not listed in OP
($65) HDD 2TB: 2x that of OP ($13 upgrade)
($45) Blu-Ray drive: OP was DVD drive (about $25 upgrade)
($80) 16GB DDR4: Equivalent Size, Speed and Spec of OP not sure on Manufacturer
($350) GPU EVGA 4GB GTX 970: 2x video memory and faster clock than OP (GTX 960 4GB is about $230 and a GTX 960 2GB $200)
($8) Heat Sink Compound
($8) Sata Cables (drives were bare bones)
Total Cost as listed: $1174 or 1110 Euro
Total Cost Closest to OP PC (no upgrades): $986 or 932 Euro
The closest thing I could come to the exact build with 20 minutes searching yielded a PC that was only 157 Euro less than that of the OP PC. If you are more comfortable with buying a prebuilt it is not actually that bad of price and components.
Would it be able to play SC @ 4k with good fps probably not. Will it handle the game on medium to good settings at 1080 yes. Keep in mind that the current game is still not optimized and the player count in a map is also low, so we could see gains or losses in performance.
few edits: simple format changes
edit 2 side note: Nvidia Pascal is said to be around the corner with 10%+ gains. I am waiting myself to see what it offers before upgrading.
The archival grade 100GB BD-XL M-disc is probably your best option IMO. This is a suitable internal drive to burn them and this is a suitable external drive
Agreed. Also here is the drive I was thinking of.
https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-Internal-Blu-Ray-Unibody-MacBook/dp/B00BFU652G
Bottom of the reader says Model No: BC - 12B1ST
so this guy then: http://www.amazon.com/Asus-DVD-ROM-Internal-Blu-Ray-BC-12B1ST/dp/B004SUO068/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1426724936&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=asus+bc+12b1st
Yeh, I was thinking something like this
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pioneer-BDR-209DBK-SATA-Internal-Burner/dp/B00H2GTXKS/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526846867&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=blu+ray+drive&amp;dpID=41NZSfUeeyL&amp;preST=_SX300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
How do i get my Blu-Ray drive to actually play Blu-Rays??
There is an LG drive with just as good reviews on Amazon (Used) for $35... Here
It appears I forgot to add an optical drive. I was thinking about this one:
LG WH16NS40 Super Multi Blue Internal SATA
Is there a better one?
I wanted an optical drive for my new pc for playing BluRay/Dvd/CD ect.
Ended up ordering this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E7B08MS?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=od_aui_detailpages00
Unfortunately I now realize it doesn't come with cables or software? Will I be able to actually use the thing without that? If not where do I get what I need to make it actually work?
https://amazon.com/gp/product/B00H2GTXKS if you were wondering the model I had
[EDIT] That's not the UHD compatible one >< See below.
This is the one I use.
No problem at all! It's fun to talk about, one of my favorite parts of PC gaming, even. 4k gaming is a little more complicated than just being able to run the resolution. The build we looked at before is probably about as close as you can get to the Scorpio with PC parts based on what we know. The new one that you just posted, there are a couple tweaks you could use to make it a better deal, but it's pretty similar. Both of them would probably perform like the scorpio. The problem is, that doesn't REALLY mean that either they or the upcoming console is really suited for 4k in all cases. Usually running at a resolution that high means also turning down other effects like texture particle details. The XBox/Playstation would handle that for you, as developers would have kinda pre-chosen how they want it to work. On the PC, you have to choose for yourself - both a freedom and a chore. Assuming the RX 480 build I have a PC very similar, but I only own 1080p displays. It gets ultra settings at 1080p to anywhere from 60 to 120fps depending on the game. In simple-to-run games such as Overwatch (maybe), League of Legends, Rocket League, etc, you could get 4k pretty easily. As the games get more detailed and complicated - like the Assassin's Creed line or GTA, then 4k gets harder and settings need nerfs pretty quick to get decent framerates (over 40-50 to push 60 fps). So these games won't actually be rendered in native 4k from the Scorpio (most likely) but instead will be scaled-up using clever resolution tricks for the most part, while SOME will play at native 4k.
Either of these graphics cards, though the RX 480 is a bit cheaper and generally a bit better - and the new RX 580 is expected to launch in about a week - can stream 4k and render 4k from physical or digital media, so you can playback your movies no problem. An internal optical drive for blurays would probably run about $50 USD So that shouldn't really sway your decision too much. Most of us really don't use discs anymore, though, so you'll see a lot of people skip this part. But if you want to use blu-ray, don't let that stop you.
To get real 4k, 60 fps, ultra settings today on everything, you would NEED a graphics card like an overclocked GTX 1080Ti, which would run over $700. That's why people are always so skeptical of inexpensive consoles advertising 4k. With companies like AMD making components for both consoles and PCs, it's perfectly understandable that they can optimize tech for consoles and get a bit more out of it, but they're not going to invent something completely new and extraordinary and not also sell it for PCs, which makes it a bit of an equalizer.
This was a quick stab at putting something together that I think would work well. It's very similar to what you've already looked at. Some notes to go with it: I've included a much better power supply in this than I have in mine. You could get a cheaper one, but don't go too cheap. It's the one piece that COULD present safety issues for you and your other components. Just about any brand's version of a particular graphics card are practically identical, so basically just go with the one you can get the best deal on. (i.e. Asus RX 480 with 8GB is not really different from MSI's RX 480 w/ 8GB, is not really different from Saphire's). r/buildapcsales can help you find good deals on individual pieces. I've had good luck on eBay for graphics cards (GPUs), solid state drives (SSDs), and cases and case fans. You could probably find a blu-ray drive there too to save some money. I've also done well there with CPUs and motherboards, but where I've included the Ryzen 5 in this build, the processor just released earlier this week, so you're unlikely to find much on there now. However, if you went with an i5-7600k CPU and a z270 motherboard, you may be able to strike a deal.
It's hard to really say I guess. Normally PCs are a better gaming performance for the money, but that probably won't be necessarily true THIS year. I guess I would encourage you to decide if you'd rather have a PC or a console and then act accordingly. Building and tweaking a PC is seriously a lot of fun, but it may not be for everybody. We'd love to have you onboard here at PCMR if you'd join us.
The size depends on how many movies you want to be able to store but as a reference my Blu-ray directory is 7.19TB for 206 movies and 4K Blu-ray directory is 7.18TB for 117.
Unfortunately you cannot use the Oppo to back them up but I use this drive, which doesn't break the bank and then I use MakeMKV to do a full disc backup. It takes up more space than putting it in a MKV container and stripping extra language streams and whatnot but you retain full quality, lossless audio, Dolby Vision, all menus, etc.
Don't quite know how it figures into things, but I just got some new LG Blu-ray burners that support M-Disc, so I did a bit of research. Company claims 1000 year life. The discs are ~$3 a pop though.
I mention this because I ASSUME it takes some higher quality optics to burn Blu-ray, and to burn on the M-Disc media, so my assumption was that these would last me a bit longer.
I've had them for a couple weeks and burned maybe a half-dozen regular DVDs that were all good, but that's not exactly a huge test group to extrapolate long-term data from.
So can a PC?
This took 1 quick search to find. See if it meets your requirements.
LG Super Multi Blue Internal SATA 16x Blu-ray Disc Rewriter OEM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E7B08MS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZdYyDbEKTSGCT
You could always replace the optical drive.
instructions
optical drive
Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!
Here are your smile-ified links:
these
---
^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly&nbsp;bot
:p
Will this work?
I didn't ignore the articles at all.
Again, the issue is not with the interface - and I've never claimed it doesn't do what it does.
Yet again, Einstein, the issue is your claim of superiority of this product, not with what the product offers. As far as a computer with those items, my own pc is running over half of it (1080p camera, Bluray drive, HDMI in), and what I do have is miles more powerful than what xbox one claims to offer (I burn blu-ray, capture 4 channels, recording studio level microphones, much more powerful graphics cardS, etc). But again, I have not once denied that xbox one has that hardware, but most of those things are not even the "interface" that everybody is complaining about and definately not exclusive to xbox.
And that's just my personal desk computer. Don't get me started on the systems I build for work...
Back to my actual point again: Your claim that xbox one is offering the ULTIMATE interface solution is laughable.
You (repeatedly) sound like a pothead proclaiming the superiority of White Castle cheeseburgers without ever having been to 5 Guys. Don't waste my time by arguing that the cheeseburger is ULTIMATE by trying to twist it and claim I'm denying a cheeseburger has cheese. Of course a cheeseburger has cheese. There's simply better burgers than White Castle sells.