(Part 3) Best seasonal decor products according to redditors

Instructions and parts are linked below. To incorporate the LEDs wasn't difficult, just required a router to create channels on the backside of the letters and about 80 point to point solder connections.

Instructions: (Not Mine)
https://www.instructables.com/id/Wood-and-Metal-NASA-Sign/

LEDs:
https://www.amazon.com/Compatible-Maxonar-Multicolor-Waterproof-Controlled/dp/B075FRFBKG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541353963&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=alexa+led+light+strip&psc=1&smid=A1WU736W1PHVH9

Very nice. Also curious why you didn't just use an off the shelf LED strip which is like $30 for a reel of 300. Here's an example from amazon that has the LEDs closer together: https://www.amazon.com/CHINLY-Individually-Addressable-Waterproof-waterproof/dp/B01LSF4Q00/

But any of the WS2812b LED strips will work. There are also multiple different strips that are either enclosed in a silicon tube, or bare strip.

You also could have made the holes closer together on your 2x4 soldering jig so that you wouldn't have to bend the wires. Kinda negates the entire point of the 2x4 soldering jig lol. Hindsight on that i'm sure.

I used a led strip like

https://www.amazon.com/CHINLY-Individually-Addressable-Waterproof-waterproof/dp/B01LSF4Q0A/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=ws2812b&qid=1562179299&s=gateway&sprefix=Ws&sr=8-4

Paired with a esp32 (basicly a faster arduino since a normal arduino was a little slow)

https://www.amazon.com/VKLSVAN-ESP-WROOM-32-Development-Dual-Mode-Microcontroller/dp/B07T6J3PXZ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=Esp32&qid=1562179449&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

I should have taken some progress pics so I could put together a real tutorial but here's the basic steps. It wasnt too hard actually.

I bought one of the 100mm plastic sphere molds off amazon here https://www.amazon.com/Naice-Round-Plastic-Balls-12-Pack/dp/B013I48KA6/ref=s9u_simh_gw_i1?_encoding=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=ZVBFCDS6X3PKAVH6DNYK&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=2a864ace-95b0-4160-8611-8c68f18bad61&pf_rd_i=desktop&th=1

I cut off about an inch with a hobby saw and used some shears to cut the cracks into it. Then I bought some (no joke) women's fishnet stockings to use as a mask and spray painted the pattern on.

There's a small magnet at the top of the force field that snaps onto a magnet on the arc node's top most exhaust to have it be detachable. Wanted to be able to still bring the model to the table lol

Think Geek looks cheapest, also eBay and Amazon. <3

For a costume like this you don't want LED's. You want EL Wire

http://www.amazon.com/Light-Battery-Parties-Halloween-Decoration/dp/B00EENNHMM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414607288&sr=8-2&keywords=el+wire

Fairy Lights

For your bike, you want one of these to illuminate the ground around you and make you visible from afar, and one of these to illuminate the frame and make your specific dimensions visible from up close.

For your body and backpack you want a few of these to light you up ad hoc.

The links I provided are all items I have bought several times on Amazon USA and used and successfully re-used on playa. They are the best combination of price, quality, and durability. They all run on AA batteries.

Have fun!

Put them on a base, not on your skin. You will dissolve the adhesive and they won't stick to you, a plastic mask would be pretty easy to rig up. Also those are 5050 leds, which are kind of terrible in my opinion since you can only power the whole strip at once, you can't control segments. Go with ws2812b or ws2811 which are the individually addressable and controllable type. The 5050s can be controlled by an arduino board but not very well. For the board, go with a 5v Trinket or Nano, small and easy to control.

This strip has a higher light density and is generally easier to work with: https://www.amazon.com/CHINLY-Individually-Addressable-Waterproof-waterproof/dp/B06XNJSKXN

Here is something that should work for your chocolate mold. I'm not sure how to check if they ship to the EU, but maybe it will be a helpful start.

Unfortunately the other most recomended circulator is the Sansaire which the 240v version is also on back order.

Here is in anova with the UK plug, but the price has been jacked WAY up.

Beyond that I think your best bet if you want to beable to have something servicable now would be to use a tempature controller and a crock pot (yall probobly dont even have those though eh?) Or the cooler and a thermometer work around. Let me know if you want more info on either.

This is the el wire- excuse mobile

Lychee Neon Light El Wire with Battery Pack, 15 Feet, Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EENNHMM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wb-.zbMXQ6FDS

And I'd recommend using some scotch or painting tape with a fifteen foot string to trace out the path you want to glue down. It will make it much easier, but it does take a while.

Also, use gel glue. It's shock/water proof. I'd recommend 2 of those if you're using a full face helmet

Loctite Ultra Gel Control Super Glue 4-Gram (1363589) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y49R7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qe-.zbFH9CXFF

Every time a thread like this pops up I always recommend battery powered christmas lights. They're light, cheap, bombproof and are much more effective than a lantern. http://www.amazon.com/Novelty-Flexible-Battery-Environments-christmas/dp/B012NBCGFU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452023666&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+powered+christmas+lights

ANJAYLIA LED Fairy String Lights, 10Ft/3M 30leds Firefly String Lights Garden Home Party Wedding Festival Decorations Crafting Battery Operated Lights(Warm White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EWBC55A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0n55BbZA6J50Y

I've done something similiar for EF and Hula. I can't post a video as a reply (maybe. Idk reddit like that)
But I used these lights linked on the outside with fake plants and flowers for an over grown look.

My amazon order history wont let me go back to the lights i used for the interior but they're the water proof strip lights that have adhesive on the back. They can change colors and it's more a Neon glow. They fit nicely around the interior of the helmet and create a dope ambient glow.


Edit: * Regardless of the adhesive you'll want to use super glue to really secure the lights and the battery pack.

These are what we got for our camp. They run off a battery pack so no is wiring necessary, just bring some spare AAA batteries and you should be good to go!

These are the ones I picked. They were all delivered in good condition, the package even came with a little in case something happens during shipping.

I rock a suit jacket every year with battery powered christmas LEDs. lasts all week, looks great, mad complements, and easy (all you gotta do is sew em in between the lining and the outside). I have started to branch out by painting voodoo iconography, sewing extra patches/mourning patches, and even made my own fur coat (with xmas led lights all over it)

Usually i go with something like this but believe me, AA packs are much easier and lighter than Ds, and are easier to get rechargeables. A few of my old suits had like 100 light strings in them, but that was a shit ton of sewing for not much more reward, so my suit this time will be going to probably be something like this.

Failures sometimes happen but usually after about 5 months of use beyond the burn. Multiple strings are a good contingency, and I am starting to look into AA powered 5050 strings.

For clarification, I make a new Jacket every year, usually in a theme like voodoo, day of the dead, ect. New one every year, as part of the ritual.
Using multiple small strings helps deal with a failure by still providing light if one goes dead.

I also add some reflective fabric on my jacket/pants just to add to visibility.

[Here you go!] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075FRFBKG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share). It connects to an app on your phone where you can control the colors, brightness, speed, modes, saturation, etc. It has an adhesive backing which I used to stick it to the underside. These also came in handy for getting it from the bottom half to the top half without it looking shitty. [Here’s how I wired it] (https://i.imgur.com/K3pMA7S.jpg)

More about lights- you need to have lights on yourself and your bike, enough on all sides so you are clearly visible from every angle (a headlamp does no good if someone is coming up on you from behind). The good news is that the price of led strands is low enough that you can easily buy a bunch on Amazon for fairly cheap. Here is a link to strands I've used in the past:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y122V89/

These are lightweight, can easily be applied to any outfit with safety pins, and can be attached to a bike frame and wheels using electrical tape. (No need to remove them when you're away from your bike, I've never heard of anyone taking the time to peel off electrical tape to steal these lights). They run on standard watch batteries, so bring some spares and you should be good to go.

This is one of the top Amazon results for "battery powered string lights"

Looks like el wire
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EENNHMM/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687762&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B003J99JW4&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0RK2D6KV6E0T1BNMHXTQ

Can't remember the exact ones, but these look similar, mine are only red though

Yeah, absolutely, here's what I send to people who ask:

LED: CHINLY WS2812B 5v (300 LED count) I bought a couple of brands for experimenting, and these are by far the brightest and more reliable LED's that I found. Powering them is trickier because they're double density; 300 led's per 5 meter instead of 150 per 5 meter.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XNJSKXN/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Controller: Advatek Pixlite 16 MK2, This was the more expensive one. I bought it because I wanted NO limitations. It can control approximately 16,000 LED's plus 4 DMX universes. It works like a charm. There is a cheaper one called the PixLite 4.

http://www.advateklights.com/pixlite-control/



Software: LightJams There is definitely a learning curve with this program, but it was the best that I found to do what I wanted. It can control any type of fixture, and is a very good price. I chose it because it can send ArtNet signals and sACN. This was important to me because I want to use the DMX universes, but the PixLite Controller cannot use the DMX outputs with ArtNet. All other software only uses ArtNet, but I needed sACN support so I can use both LED's + DMX. You can download the trial and use the trial to design all your setup and then buy a license (or rent a license for cheap!) when you're ready. There is a Google group where the developer will answer any questions. He is very helpful.

http://www.lightjams.com/ https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/lightjams





I was able to build 4 x light poles on PVC (3 rows of 87 LEDs for a total of 1,044 LEDs), with 3 power supplies, PixLite controller, software license, wires/cables for less than $800USD. I can continue adding more poles as I wish. Each pole costs about $60USD to make not including the controller or software.

Okay I am creating my spare room into a studio and dark room. I am curious if safelights have something special to them or if it is just a red light? I am thinking about putting something like this in the upper wall side by the celling. I am curious if I turn it to red, will it work as a safelight?

Here you go :) 2.4 oz. I always grab a pack before festivals or camping trips.

I got mine on amazon for 6 bucks. Didn't expect much but have been my go to precision bit set for a year. I'll find you a link.


Edit.

This is the one I bought. There is a 45 piece available for 11 as well. Bits are great. Strong, but should still give before breaking a screw in something. Are magnetic too, great for small screws. Screwdriver and extender are solid, but the money obviously went into the bits and that's ok. Come with really cheap tweezers too. Love the case though. Can easily mount on and screw on your wall. Also the party trick, the bits pop outward for easy access when you open the lid.

I got them to fix my istick 100w that I broke. Worked great, have used many times. Still, be careful what you do. Companies are very quick to void a warranty if they find out you opened it up.

You want this: https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Repeater-Signal-Amplifier-Strip/dp/B00E4JQDKE/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1498868470&sr=8-6&keywords=led+amplifier

You use the arduino to control it, and it controls the lights.

If you wanted to build your own version of this, you would use some form of transistors.

I use one of these in pretty much every LED project I do.

I got http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EVV8LK/ and recommend it. For a few dollars more you get a ton of extra bits.

Gladly! I based my builds on one developed by Ulrich Radig, who makes his source code pretty freely available on his forums and on github. He's got an (older version) assembly and demonstration on that first link, towards the bottom.

Basically, you lay out strips of WS2812 LEDs to form a grid of lights, say 13x13, depending on how many letters wide your clock face needs to be. These LEDs can be controlled individually by a signal from a microprocessor, so you can turn on just the necessary lights instead of the whole strip. For a controller, we use a NodeMCU 12-E or similar ESP-8266 board, which is a low cost (8 euro) microcontroller that also has wifi built into it and which can be programmed in the same manner as an Arduino. You then put a grid between the LEDs to mask the lights and to prevent the light from lighting up the letters around it, since you just want one letter per LED to be lit up. Ulrich used water jet cut foam for his, my first one was cardboard, but I now have a 3d printer and will print something for it. Over the grid, you put a face plate with the letters etched, cut, or painted on it. Ulrich used a silkscreen method on glass. I used painter's tape on a opaque plexiglas, traced and cut out the lettering, then a couple of coats of black spray paint over that. I carefully peeled out the tape and it left a negative of the letter for the light to shine through. This time I'm going to maybe do something nicer, laser cut metal or wood (haven't quite decided). The whole device is run on 5v power, so a simple 2A USB style cell phone charger is all you need for power.

Ulrich did most of the heavy lifting with his code, where he created a sort of library that stores the "addresses" of the LEDs in a big matrix, then created reference functions to the matrix. Calling the function "Es" lights up LEDs numbered 1,2. Calling "ist" lights 4,5, and 6. This is set up for all the other words as well. He also built in a time lookup service to sync the time over the internet, and he included a web server function so you can connect to the clock over wifi and control the colors, brightness, and so on. I have mostly just adapted his code on my previous projects, but I hope to go a little further on this one, to add in a battery powered back up clock module, and if I have time, to refine the web server that Ulrich made.

Looks good, but a little cramped for me. That fridge is awesome but if it were me, I'd either get the fridge off the desk or move it as far to the left as possible. Also, consider a dual monitor mount. Saves a lot of space and looks a lot cleaner, especially with mismatched monitors. Not sure if LED's are your thing but I think it would brighten the place up a bit with an RGB strip on the back of each monitor. I think they look a lot better coming from the back of the monitors rather than around the desk. I'd probably put the PS4 with the other consoles too, looks out of place there. Cable management could do with a little work.

Lots of LED strings for various things.
These for inside tents or part of costumes.
These for zip tying to my bike. Say no to darkwads.

If you’re ever interested in mixing things up with your tail in the future, (since you’ve already opened it up and are skilled at stitching it back together) you might try stuffing it with fairy/string lights. They’re very tiny LED lights that are cool (temperature) and energy efficient. They would make your tail look like it’s glowing from within and give it a magical feel after the sun goes down.

Wrapping them around the outside of the tail would give a different, more sparkly effect. If you wanted to, you could even trace out various shapes with the lights, like a heart (or row of hearts), or fox head, etc.

Examples of glowing tail:

Glowing Tail

Advanced Glowing Tail


Fairy Lights

Maybe try something like LED lights on the inside of the toy (but keep access to the switch obviously)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004E2T9ZC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hope this may help!

Here you go: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NSPNY3Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Alright, I’ll do my best to explain what I did. First off, material list:

4 x WS2811 5m 30LEDS/m addressable LED strip 12V in IP67 waterproof tube
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01CNL6EG2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1 x 12V 30A DC power supply
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01EWG6YT8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1 x Magic LED Bluetooth controller
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01LW1J10W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1 x Sound activated controller
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0792T73VB/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

10m (cut in half to get 20m) of Gorilla Mounting Tape Clear (link is for black, but I bought clear)
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/gorilla-glue-mounting-tape-black-0671081p.html#srp

14 gauge wire
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/southwire-30-metre-in-wall-speaker-wire-yellow-14-2-0529814p.html#srp

18 gauge wire (brown thermostat wire)
Can’t find a link, but I had it in my garage from another project

There is a strip that holds the soffit in place on the far side from the house that was a perfect channel for the LED strip. You can buy white aluminium channels for LED strips with nice frost glazing that diffuses the light. I would have bought them, but soffit and house trim are all brown and I could not find it in brown. I cleaned the surface of the house, then suck the tape to the strip and ran a knife down the side to cut it in half. I then attached it all to the house. 20m fit perfectly around the lower level trim on my house.

I have built-in shelves all around the inside of my garage. So I put the power supply on an upper shelf near the centre of the strips. I picked 12V strips over 5V strips to minimize voltage drops. There are numerous online voltage drop calculators, I used this one:

https://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html

My electrical engineering friends tell me I need to size the wire for no more than a 3% voltage drop. That might be a bit overkill for low-voltage LED lights, but that’s what is in the CEC for building wiring. I ended up using 14-gauge wire and ran power to each strip. It worked out to be a bit more than a 3% loss. I used the brown thermostat wire to tee off the main line indoors and ran it through the wall to power the strips. Each connection was done using crimp-style splice connectors that I had left-over from wiring a stereo in my boat.

On the far end I mounted the Magic LED Bluetooth controller (inside) and ran an extra run of the thermostat wire for the data signal. The controller worked great once I put in the right settings. I also set the wiring up so I can connect the sound activated controller outside. On Halloween I plan on setting up some singing pumpkins and have the lights dance to the music.

I hope this helps and good luck with your project. A key thing to keep in mind is you need to run power to each strip, otherwise, you will have too much line-loss, generate lots of heat, and the colours will be different on the far end. It can, and should, come from the same power supply, but just run additional power lines out to each strip.

I used these! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KNK1QUE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I wore these for my Carnaval costume this year, they were great. They operate on a coin battery, so the switch is small and easy to hide, they were super bright and they lasted all night. They come in tons of colors too and they're relatively cheap.

Thank you! The large size definitely leaves room for more errors. For the eyes I got a plastic sphere that opens up (usually for Christmas ornaments). I plan on using color film and one way mirror film to make the actual iris.

ANJAYLIA LED Fairy String Lights, 10Ft/3M 30leds Firefly String Lights Garden Home... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EWBC55A/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_tEHRCbWZTMQAY

Data Repeater RGB Signal Amplifier


Power Supply

2.1 mm breakout adapters

Or just buy this here and have everything in one kit

Not going to beat $3.41 with free shipping in this sub

http://www.amazon.com/partical-5050SMD-Computer-Strip-Self-adhesive/dp/B00NQR7QDI/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1426002678&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=red+led+strip+molex

Alright so this pack has been through 4 edcs 3 Orlando and 1 Vegas and every year I've added to it or removed elements from it based on what I've found works and what doesn't.

First and foremost I cannot stress this enough no tight bends in el wire!!! None on the shoulders none on the straps. Avoid flex and stress points in your pack keep el to the core bulk of the pack. El wire needs to be reinforced to prevent breakage and fading.

Keep your fishing line loops tight and close, for a few reasons...tight loops keep people from grabbing them or getting snagged on something, they also double as reinforcement to prevent any flex for dancing or stress points (remember what I said about flex points)

The fairy lights I added this last November are imo wayyyyyyy better then el wire. I have a little bit of el wire still on the pack from when I first made it and it's still holding up...but honestly el wire will come to an end eventually and with the fairy lights I've found they just hold up better and aren't as finnikey. The ability to control the lights via a remote is also an added bonus.

Anyway I have a set of these on the pack from amazon
Homestarry LED String Lights,https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KNK1QUE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_WoQNkLEDOQq1F

This is the led strip
https://www.coloradohulahoops.com/battery-powered-5050-rgb-led-strip-light-kit-usb-power-bank-2-meter

And these are on the shoulders
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M14979F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EmIhzbWT89KR5

Everything is controlled via remotes so I won't be blinding anyone as I'm going through the crowd. Don't worry ;)
Let me know if you guys have any questions

Also this is the first iteration of the pack so you can see how it's evolved
http://i.imgur.com/3bhOEoL.gifv

Sure!

Basic backstory with moderately more details- I wasn't partaking and knew I'd be partying 4 days in a row, so wanted something to lean on for the last day. I could have made a simple totem... but fuck that, I wanted that dual saber effect.

Polycarbonate tubing- bloody expensive but the core piece for it. I also ran a wooden dowel down the center of one of the lengths because I had it sitting around.

http://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/plastic_rods_tubes_shapes/polycarbonate_tubes/276


El wire - I had two kits running on one of them and three on the other. In retrospect, I'd rather get a more powerful inverter and just run more batteries in to it- kind of a pain to deal with three exterior pieces.

I think I used this kit... not sure, never know with how much stuff gets posted nowadays.


Other than that, I had a 3/4 inch PVC pipe length about a foot long and a T that was 3/4 by 3/4 with the split off as 1/2 inch. (I know what you're thinking- how's 3/4 inch PVC work? PVC's standard measurement looks at the ID, or inside diameter- while polycarbonate tubing's standard measurement looks at the OD, or outer diameter. I found 1 inch polycarb + some tape around it was able to fit in a 3/4 inch T shaped PVC fitting. Illogical... but I promise, it works.) Tee joint is like this. Then I wrapped the 3/4 inch PVC handle in baseball bat grip tape and called it a day- basically anything to make it comfortable to hold on to.

After that, I ran the wire down the interior of the polycarb and ran the power packs for the el wire out the 1/2inch split off of the PVC T piece. Super glue, screw both pipes in to the tee so that they won't fall off (now I know... screwed that up @EDC, was very frustrating to suddenly feel the piece fall off the handle if you lifted it wrong and have batteries go flying in every direction as it smashed into the ground) and it's lit fam!

To top it off: what's the point in having a walking stick, if you're going to mess it up every time it touches the ground? Fortunately, there's an answer for that! I put some of the rubber feet that you can attach to a cane on the bottoms. Not sure if that was 3/4 inch or 1 inch size, this is just a random link so you get the picture.

Difficulty... none. Hardest part was figuring out which sized pieces to use and finding polycarbonate tubing, could have ordered it online but it was a 20-30 minute detour from my commute so just did that instead. As far as figuring out which pieces to use... I instinctively bought more 1 inch PVC pieces than I'd care to admit. Fortunately it's good for setting up sprinkler systems.

End result? I felt like a shaman bouncing around on my staff by Gouryella, and was able to rally for the rest of Dreamstate after the wonderful set full of uplift.

I also stacked both totems on top of each other and recorded Prydz... haven't bothered to stitch all that footage together yet though. Maybe this weekend- it's cool to see what the crowd looked like from above.

Uhhh This might be something you'd like... I see some comments about day Z and zombie apocalypse here. A quick toolkit is excellent and necessary for hotwiring abandoned cars, or breaking into storehouses, or what have you.

I don't think I can buy a lockpick on amazon otherwise I'd suggest that. ;)

I didn't even know that was a thing. I have no idea why this didn't come up when I was googling about this problem.

Would this work?

I know the OP's post was technically a fundraiser but since it's written in the style of educating people of what their lighting options are I felt it's remiss in not mentioning one of the cheapest and best options: Cheap LED xmas lights.

Cheaper and brighter than EL wire, although not quite as robust.

http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Powered-Decorative-Christmas-Colorful/dp/B00IOHIBRA/

http://www.amazon.com/Sets-Blue-Lights-Silver-Products/dp/B010J4RMIO

It's actually a copper wire light strand taped to the wall, I got it for $7 on Amazon.

Here's the link to it if you, or anyone else, is interested.

I've actually been looking into setting up a number of these lately, and while I don't know a lot about electronics, I've come to the same conclusions you have. 10a sounds like enough, but to avoid any dimming, you'd probably be better of with 12a or even 15a.


The real problem I've read (don't know if this is true) is that the receiver only handles 2 strips at a time, so you might need one of
these to keep the signal going. So you could keep your original PS and add another 5a in line with this repeater and most likely be fine.

Sorry for my shitty guesstimations but I hope it helps!

Yeah I was thinking of getting these for behind my desk and these for inside my case. The RGB ones can be programmed for new colors and different patterns and they arent that expensive. And the ones for inside the case are dirt cheap. Just got a ssd a month ago and its awesome!!

Nice!

Grab one of these and toss it in!

https://www.amazon.com/RTGS-String-Lights-Battery-Operated/dp/B004E2T9ZC

That's probably what I'll do for now, and if I need to I found this thing on Amazon, which looks to be exactly what I was looking for.

You want to use 24v strip in these cases in order to not have to deal with power injection, which is where novices can easily get into trouble. With 24v you can run up to 10M, or 32.8ft, and is such often sold in 10M reels. Purchase four of these and cut each down to the length of it's respective wall, being sure to only cut on the line in the center of the copper pads every 6 LEDs.

{With addressable strip, the pixel "size" is TYPICALLY determined by voltage, so for 24v strip, each 6 LEDs will act as a single "pixel," when playing back patterns, 12v strip is 3 LEDs, 5v is 1.}

After cutting the strip to length, you will want to remove the connectors from the cut off ends and solder them to your new ends. IT IS IMPORTANT FOR THIS SCENARIO TO NOT solder on the RED (+24v) wire, as it will be safer to use 4 smaller power supplies, you are only wanting to interconnect the green Data wire and white Ground wire between each strip. If using IP68 waterproof strip, don't forget to remove the silicone endcap from your cut end, replacing it on the new end with a dab of silicone sealant.

Attach the 2.1mm socket adapters to the RED (+) and White (-) bare wires at the beginning of each strip using a jewelers screwdriver. Connect the 3-pin connectors between each strip, and tape off the bare wires with electrical tape, then connect the PSUs to the last three strips. For the first strip, connect it's PSU to the 2.1mm splitter, plugging one end into the strip and the other into the controller. Wire the 3pin connector included with the controller to the Data and Ground of the controller, again in this case, DO NOT CONNECT THE RED (+24v) WIRE to the controller; just wrap the end in electrical tape. Finally, connect the 3-pin connector from the controller to the first strip and power up your PSUs. From here it's just configuring the controller with your phone or tablet.

4x: https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Visdoll-Flexible-Addressable-Programmable/dp/B075GCKPHB?th=1&psc=1

4x:https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B074GJ22P6/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A325274ZEF9XYZ&psc=1

1x: https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Controller-Individually-Addressable-Programmable/dp/B01LW1J10W/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541825064&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=4+output+ws2811+controller&psc=1

1x: https://www.amazon.com/Chanzon-Female-Connector-Security-Adapter/dp/B079RCNNCK

1x: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G6G5DJ0/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1

This is funny, I only had one D item on my list. Thanks for getting your PhD, Doctor :)

Thanks for the contest!

Huh? Elwire is about a cheap as you can get.

$11 from Amazon

My thought on using a computer PSU that is also powering a computer is if there is a problem with the led strips. Such as one gets danged or the RGP controller goes bad, this could result in damage to your psu and other components. If it was all in case it would not be a problem as the strips will likely not be able to be damaged. For my own project I thought about using an PSU standalone to power some extra led strips for the garage, going for total of 288W. I deiced not to as I can get something smaller, cheaper and no waste of power like the 5v rails and 3.3v. At 200W depending on the psu you may have to wire into mutiple rails of the psu. I got this 360W 12v from amazon. Do note that this probably not UL tested. From what I understand for it to be safe and legal to be used in your house it needs to be in some other enclosure. Basically if it causes a fire your insurance may not cover damages. Also a note on long runs of led strips you should plan on running multiple 12v lines as the strips will have voltage drop. Being you are doing RGB you will need a signal amplifier/repeater like this. I would start with 1 repeater and test it to see how far you can power a run.

Thanks! Do you know what else I would need to get for that because I’m planning on buying 4 of these

CHINLY 16.4ft WS2812B Individually Addressable LED Strip Light 5050 RGB SMD 150 Pixels Dream Color Waterproof IP67 Black PCB 5V DC (Black PCB 16.4ft 150leds waterproof) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LSF4Q00/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lsGHAbSH2EMKY


What power supply/ control board would I need to get for that?

Tardis Lights

I use these and they are spot on.

Battery powered fairy lights. You can get all white or colors. Some of them come with a remote which is uber impressive.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B012NBCGFU/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1504985153&sr=8-10&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=battery+powered+string+lights&dpPl=1&dpID=61Jj453XVhL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IOHIBRA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I ordered a few of these.

Really appreciate the info, I am working on a project similar to this one, and this one but with much less LEDs. Ideally I'd like to run 900 individually addressable LEDs, all controlled by a Teensy using these LED strips. I know it's a bit ambitious for my skill level, and I am slowly working up to assembling the project. Got any advice for me before I fry myself?

So for $10 of led strip and $25 of controllers you'd be able to make 10 sets of strip kits for $35. Selling at $20 each would net $200 and then $165 after materials and probably $130 profit after shipping and magnets. You can probably get an even better deal on the rgb led strip as well to increase profits.

Overall I'd say it is a pretty good deal but I wouldn't buy it for only 1 foot of led strip. Especially not $8 for another foot. Great for people who don't want to solder and/or just want an easy kit. This however, also exists and is only $17 with prime shipping.

Best I have for you is this picture of the 2 packages (same product, just different design to the box) http://imgur.com/8WJv5Gk the number on the barcode is 37916363233. Hopefully you can find them online or something, as my google fu is currently failing me, as I'd like to find other colors

Edit: jackpot! http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004E2T9ZC?cache=2b42349f4796f733516405b256ec6bd8&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412299766&sr=1-9#ref=mp_s_a_1_9

Similarly, Amazon has some great options.

Yeah you can go to just about any craft store this time of the year and get a little battery operated pack of lights.

I would sew the pack to the inside or back of stocking and use a knife to puncture holes through the inside of the stocking to so they the wire is not visible.

Then depending on how far you want to go with it you could just do it randomly or attempt to make it look like a word. Randomly would be a lot less time.

EDIT: Here are some decent deals on Amazon if you have time to wait 5 to 7 days for shipping.

Green

Blue

Red

With LED lights you're dealing with much smaller bulbs than traditional lights, but they also put off brighter light. Another advantage would be making the incisions into the stocking to get them to be visible since they are much smaller.

Hey. you are correct for your approach for the cage. You need something sturdy to form the cage. For the lights, you will needs this

I would suggest dangling the string vertically. use fishing wire to attach it to the threads.

Blacklights, man. Blacklights. Because blacklight balloons exist. And black light paint exists.

Doctor Who lights!

I'm not exactly sure what this is, but it's called a Wizard Stick so obviously you have to have it just for the sake of asking people if they want to see your wizard stick.

Don't have any spares, but I have 2 of these cheap strips that look great. Unfortunately they take a while to ship. I also found [these] (https://www.amazon.com/XKTTSUEERCRR-Waterproof-300LED-Flexible-Light/dp/B00EKEODA0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1465409651&sr=8-4&keywords=red+led) that might ship sooner, but they only have bare wires, so you'd need to buy a molex connector. Either way I hope it works for you

Aura is analog. It's the 4 pin 12v variety as noted for the motherboard with 12v in and the RGB cathodes for color switching. The ones behind my monitor are a whole different bag of worms, they are WS2812Bs with independent addresses. Currently 112 around the monitor.

I believe it's a combination of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Kurt-Adler-Printed-Ornament-2-5-Inch/dp/B00JLS9BE8/
https://www.amazon.com/Kurt-Adler-Doctor-Ornament-Pieces/dp/B01AY9P2CW/
https://www.amazon.com/4-Piece-Multi-Colored-Miniature-Christmas-Ornament/dp/B015Q357D0/
https://www.amazon.com/Doctor-Bronze-Novelty-Christmas-Lights/dp/B0187KR2QO/
https://www.amazon.com/Doctor-Who-TARDIS-String-Lights/dp/B009XDJI9Y/

Which Arduino do you think I should use? I plan on using these LEDs for the project. Do you think the Molex cable power the whole thing?

mmh both products seem ok, but VERY expensive... look around on ebay or even Amazon.. https://www.amazon.com/CHINLY-Individually-Addressable-Waterproof-waterproof/dp/B01LSF4Q0A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1500484866&sr=8-3&keywords=addressable+5050 are a quarter of SuperBrightleds pricing...

Winner winner chicken dinner.

Here's the ones I bought https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IOHIBRA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tx3-BbQTF8E89

Here are some photos http://imgur.com/gallery/eEHOE2a

I'd say this is a pretty ambitious first project, but what better way to learn than to fail until you succeed. I did this project for a friend on a 75" tv. Honestly to do this for your computer you wouldn't use a raspberry, you would use your computer as the "brain" instead of a pi. Here's the links i used to do the tv project, there's youtube guides for pc using an arduino, you can reverse engineer these links to get you somewhere.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZCVfZb4UoO4

https://www.amazon.com/Aclorol-100V-240V-Switching-Converter-5-5x2-1mm/dp/B07CMM2BBR/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1531773371&sr=8-4-fkmr1&keywords=DIANQI+power+supply+50W+5V+10A

https://www.amazon.com/Movcle-Splitter-Adapter-Powered-Certified/dp/B0180PPTNO/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1531772622&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=HDMI+Splitter&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Cingk-Converter-Adapter-Supports-Chromecast/dp/B01N0YDDI3/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1531772653&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=HDMI2AV+Converter&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Switch-Remote-Famirosa-Switcher-Selector/dp/B075K3X64T/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1531772702&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=HDMI+Selector&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/August-VGB100-External-Composite-Transfer/dp/B008F0SARC/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1531772765&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=USB+Grabber&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/CHINLY-Individually-Addressable-Waterproof-waterproof/dp/B01LSF4Q00/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1531772536&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=WS2812B+RGB+LED&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Arduino-Uno-R3-Microcontroller-A000066/dp/B008GRTSV6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1531772580&sr=8-3&keywords=Arduino+Uno

With this set up will I run the power from the buck converter to each strip individually or run it through each strip into the next? I'll be using this strip cut to size: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LSF4Q0A/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

And could you link me to a buck converter like that? I'm not failure with best sites to buy that, other than amazon.

check out the controller in the "frequently bought together" for the color legend:

https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Controller-Individually-Addressable-Programmable/dp/B01LW1J10W/ref=pd_bxgy_267_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=W2RF1W1QSN92WMD0XDSX

I really dig these AA powered string lights. You get great diffused light from them because the individual lights are so far apart. To me diffuse light is the whole point of a lantern.

Shoot I need to weigh them with the batteries in.

LED Fairy String Lights,ANJAYLIA 10Ft/3M 30leds Firefly String Lights Garden Home Party Wedding Festival Decorations Crafting Battery Operated Lights(Warm White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EWBC55A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vpiXDb053V0V2

They're very inexpensive and typically are installed by plugging them into a molex power connector off your PSU then slapping them wherever you want them in the case.

Here's some cheapies in a few different colors. Go nuts.

Thank you so much for your response! I was thinking that the Pi wouldn't be feasible on it's own for just that reason.

​

For the driver, would something like this be able to run all 8 strips separately if I were to run the output signal through an 8-way splitter?

​

If you have Amazon Prime then just search EL Wire and you'll get it in 2 days. Even without Prime, you'll probably get them super quick.

The wire comes in a variety of colors and lengths. They have a controller pack that comes with and usually requires 2 double A batteries.

This link below is for a 4 pack but you can get them singularly or in larger packs. Its up to you.

https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Glowing-Strobing-Electroluminescent-Controllers/dp/B00ORGCOG6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1464784170&sr=8-5&keywords=el+wire

I tossed some cheap red LEDs from amazon in my black case. It looks very cool.

edit: LED's (come w/ 3M sticky backing, have held for 6mo thus far)

my computer

Mobile Users: This is pretty photo heavy.

​

I've worked on this over the last two and a half weeks in the evenings and on weekends. I've probably got around 50-60 hours in so far.

The project is complete, there are just some other things I'd like to eventually do with the programming for the LEDs.

Tools

Exacto/razor blades

Heatgun - for heat shrink, you can just use a lighter

Soldering Iron

Phillips Screwdriver

Laptop/Computer for programming with Arduino or CircuitPython

Printer - laser or inkjet

​

Supplies/Parts

Various Rustoleum Spray paints - $20 total

Multi-Strip - $15

Masking tape and paper - $10-15

Extra razor blades - $5

Printer sticker paper - $15

Electrical Tape - $1

3m double sided foam tape - $4

Heat Shrink - Not sure, maybe $5 new for the assorted kit?

Adafruit Trinket: https://www.adafruit.com/product/3500 - $8

5v 4 amp Power Supply: https://www.adafruit.com/product/1466 - $15

White LED On/Off switch: https://www.adafruit.com/product/917 - $5

White LED Momentary Switch: https://www.adafruit.com/product/558 - $5

DC Power Jack: https://www.adafruit.com/product/373 - $0.95

Small Perma Proto PCB Board: https://www.adafruit.com/product/1608 - $3

50 feet (I used about 15 feet) 4 pin RGB extension wire: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GFW6ZB3/ref=pd_luc_rh_sspa_dk_huc_pt_expsub_2?psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExUlMwQ1ZSRzJSQ0tUJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTQzMzg2M1FSRk9TSUFIMllNMyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMzEzNDU5QlQ3MFBCSTZKRUVDJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfaHVjX21yYWkmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl - $10

50 pair (lol) JST Connectors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NBSH4CA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - $11

16.7 foot reel of addressable LEDs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LSF4Q00/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - $21

​

I think that's all of it, I'll update if I think of anything else.

It's a set but I've got one of these and I love it. It has all of the bits you would ever need.

Other than that, I've found these:

• https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-DR-07-Twin-Wrench-Driver/dp/B001YHA56M
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-344-4-in-1-Pocket-Screwdriver/dp/B0014KMDZ0
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Wera-05051024001-Kraftform-Bitholding-Screwdriver/dp/B001HSNHM2

Check these out. The battery pack is super thin.

I slipped the battery pack into the cuff and strung the lights through in a zigzag pattern. Don’t wrap it around in a circle because the cuff won’t stretch as much due to the copper wire and will be super tight. The zigzag gives it a little wiggle room.

Hi, thanks bunch! I hope the same for you!

They we're just two, reasonably cheap RGB LED Strips from Amazon LINK

They're great. Plug in via USB to my USB hub. Loads of colours, plenty of brightness settings, lots of modes such as solid colour, flashing, breathing effects etc. Only downside was the adhesive on the back but, pretty much all led strips suffer this so, make sure you have the means to stick it on securely.

As for how they're position - one is on the underside pointed at the floor, the other is on the back of the desk pointing at the wall.

Hope this helped and good luck with your own battlestation! Be sure to get in touch when you rig your LEDs up - I'd love to see!

I mounted mine on a wall. I got a piece of wood and slid it through the wrist strap and the place where your actually grab with your hand. I put 2 command hooks on the wall and rested the piece of wood on the two command hooks.

https://reddit.app.link/LKXQgmaI5W

Also bought some string lights off Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075FRFBKG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_SXS7Cb0HWYDQ1) and glued those to the back, hooked it up to Alexa. I tell her to start my gaming session and she turns off my lights, turns this and a fortnite blueshield on, turns on my xbox and e-nail. What a time to be alive

I wouldn't recommend them, there's much better alternatives.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Multi-colour-19-7in-Background-Lighting-Gerneric/dp/B00KAOZI1C/ref=sr_1_19?s=lighting&ie=UTF8&qid=1467063330&sr=1-19&keywords=led+strip

I picked up one of these. I figured if I am just looking for the one specific type, I might as well get something that can be used in the future in case I need the others.

You realize that the post is specifically a waterproof RGB strip, correct? So what you're saying that it's cheaper to buy a non-waterproof RBG strip.
Here is a comparable standalone waterproof RGB LED strip which is cheaper, although if you have prime and want a controller it would be easier to just get the set for $2 more with the 2-day shipping option.