(Part 2) Best torque wrenches according to redditors

I think I found it on Amazon, it's either this one or this one. They're probably the same but different socket kits.

Edit: this is the closest match I could find to the photos. This one might be it.

[This] (http://www.amazon.com/HomCom-Heavy-Torque-Multiplier-Wrench/dp/B00G3NA6C0/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1421969734&sr=1-6&keywords=torque+multiplier+wrench)

Look man, if you really want to spend $300 on a wrench that you use once or twice a year, go nuts.

On the other hand, you can get a Made in China version that will do what you want for $25 shipped to your door.

I've had that one for 3 years, and it's worked flawlessly both times I've used it. Got my money's worth out of it in a single spark plug change. What I've found is that a big ass torque wrench just isn't that necessary in every day life. Is that wrench going to break a lot sooner than a fancy expensive one? Yup. I don't care, given my usage of it so far.

If I made my money as a mechanic, you bet your ass I'd be buying the best tools I could find. As a guy who occasionally needs the torque on something to be pretty close to the spec, the one above is just fine for me. If it ever breaks, I'll have a $25 club which is cool too.

No it won't affect it. If you're looking to get a nice one, I'd recommend the split beam style. They're accurate and quick to adjust settings on. The $50 ones with the dial on the end work okay until they don't and you crack off a bolt because they never click for you. This Brand was the manufacturer for SnapOn and other pro tool trucks for decades. I think it's the pricing sweet spot for buying once and done between the stuff you can't trust when you need to, like on an engine, and the stuff pros use now which are digital and $500.

If you want something that's actually accurate and not a piece of shit get a CDI Torque Wrench. CDI is Snap On's industrial brand. It's basically the exact same thing that would come off the tool truck but at 1/2 the cost of a Snap On branded one. I have 3 of these and would still buy them all day long. https://www.amazon.com/CDI-2503MFRMH-Micrometer-Adjustable-Torque/dp/B002LA1EDO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506280402&sr=8-1&keywords=cdi+torque+wrench+1%2F2+inch

Yep, penetrating oil might work. Depending on what it is you might be able to heat it with a torch. Metal expands when heated, which can break loose a stuck nut or bolt. An impact driver can sometimes break loose nuts and bolts that steady torque won't.

Also you can get torque multiplier wrenches that will twist off most anything you can attach them to.

Also if there was clearance where he was working he could have used a different kind of wrench that would take more force without breaking. A closed type like a box end or a socket.

I go this one on sale a few years back:

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03716B-Torque-Multiplier-Foot-Pound/dp/B002GQ3PZ8


Im just a tinkerer myself, but that thing has come in handy on so many axle nuts ...


Its 3:1 conversion... put 100lbs on it it outputs 300lbs etc

Things that are definitely missing:

• Peddle wrenches (i.e. any 15mm wrench that isn't too thick.)
  
• Tire levers
  
• Chain cleaner
  
  Depending on what a "novice cyclist" repairs and rides:
  
  
• cone wrenches
  
  Things that you might change:
  
  
• Don't really need the expensive toque wrench. The 5 nm one of these will suffice for many things (bar clamp, rear derailleur, etc.)
  
• T-handle hex keys are nice when they work but there are sometimes clearance issues. If only one or other, simple L-shaped hex keys are probably the safer choice.
  

Most of the important stuff takes about 5nm torque spec. Get a pre-set torque wrench for cheap, and a set of bits.

Like this one.

http://smile.amazon.com/ACDelco-ARM601-4-2-Inch-Digital-Torque/dp/B0081AQDIY/

Non-reference link. Many may think you are a spammer with the ref part.

But its probably a ok one. Also likely the same one sold at sears and other places under their name. So shop around.

From what I've heard, you don't actually need to take your wheels off to dip. If you don't know what tools you'll need to do it, then you probably should go this route.

However if you still want to get some good tools to learn how to work on your car, here's what you'll need:

Floor jack this is the Harbor Freight one. It can be found in stores for as low as $70 depending on coupons. It's actually a pretty decent jack. Its very low and it lifts well. It's pretty good quality too, just very heavy. If you're not in the states/near a HF, do some research on a decent one as you don't want to drop your car on anyone/anything.

Jack stands you'll need four if you want to take all your wheels off at once. I don't have these stands and I don't know anything about them so do your research on some good ones (they don't have to be very expensive) and make sure to get some that will support your vehicles weight. Remember, be safe.

Breaker bar this will help you get the leverage you need to break your lug nuts loose. It's a very smart idea to properly torque your lug nuts back down when you put your wheels back on so they don't fall off or you don't snap a stud. Here's a combo kit with a torque wrench and that same breaker bar I have a few Tekton brand tools and I'm very pleased with them. They are a fantastic budget option that isn't junk. I would definitely buy from them again (and I'm a bit of a tool snob)

Lug nut sockets this is a generic kit that I have no experience with. You'll need a socket to fit on your breaker bar and torque wrench. This is a set with multiple sizes, you only need one size for your car so if you want to save some money, figure out what size your lug nuts are and just get one socket. The ones in this kit and some you'll find elsewhere are coated in a plastic sleeve to prevent scratching on your wheels.

Gloves Gloves aren't necessary but some people like them to keep from getting their hands super dirty. You can get as cheap or as expensive as you like with gloves. These seem to be popular. If you do go to HF to buy a floor jack, I like their heavy duty black nitrile gloves. They're disposable and very strong.

This should be all you need to get started with changing tires and whatnot. I'm on mobile so sorry for the inevitable typo. Good luck with your wheels and don't forget to post pictures on the finished product. I'll link some more tools below this if you'd like to build of a kit to do basic maintenance like changing your oil, etc...

Socket set This is a very good place to start with sockets. I linked a 1/4 drive and 3/8 combo set. The smaller 1/4 inch drive sockets are great for small places and will be fine for a lot of your car. The 3/8 inch drive set is good for larger fasteners or things that are a bit tighter. If you were only going to get one, I'd get the 3/8 drive. Alternatively if you want something a little bit better, GearWrench makes very good sockets and ratchets for a good price as well (more than Tekton but way less than "professional" tool truck brands)

Oil drain pan Doing an oil change is a great way to do maintenance on your car and get started before you do bigger things. You'll need to drain the old oil somewhere so a pan like this is perfect. You don't need anything too fancy. I think I got mine from my local auto parts store for ~$10.

Screwdrivers There's a million different options for these. My personal favorites are the Wera Kraftform screwdrivers they are super comfortable and they have a special non slip tip that is amazing. I don't want to use any other screwdriver ever after this. (They're on sale now too!! They're usually about ~$10 more than this. I almost want to get an other set just because)

Pliers These are great pliers at a good price. Keep them clean and they should last a long time. I'm very happy with mine.

I can't think of much more right now. You'll know when you need something else. This also depends on what kind of car you have. Jeeps for example, use a lot of torx fasteners so you'd need torx sockets for a lot of stuff. Just make sure you watch a lot of videos on how to do things and make sure you're comfortable doing whatever it is you're doing. The last thing you want to do is damage you or your car.

I mean the product certainly says its for the tool and the work surface, everyone loves it for the tool protection while few people mention needing it to do the later. Check the amazon reviews, 2 out of the first 20 reviews I see mention it for work surface protection, at least 10 of them mention it protecting their impact

https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-Electric-Tools-49-16-2767-Protective/dp/B079C5FJ2C/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Milwaukee+impact+boot&qid=1566517058&s=gateway&sr=8-1

>The rubber boot feels nice and tough and looks great and protects 100% more than the original bumpers on the impact itself. Very satisfied!!
>
>I bought this for my Milwaukee 2767-22 High Torque impact. I wanted to protect it from falls or other damage and to preserve the name plate with the product serial number....
>
>I finally learned its worth protecting your tools when you plan on using them for years. I upgraded to the second gen high torque impact and wanted to keep it in good shape. For the price you pay for your tools, its worth keeping them protected!
>
>Item arrived early and was in official Milwaukee Tools packaging. Only makes sense if you spend $200 on a tool that takes a lot of abuse to be protected. Cover fits very snug and does not obstruct operation of the tool in any way. Very satisfied!

I work as a mechanic for a large company that builds engines. All 99% of my work is engine or engine related.

1. Quality disassembly is as important as reassembly. It will literally decide how well things go for you when you go to put it back together. Take time to organize things in a way you will know how to put them back later. Buy some short multi colored zip ties and use those to remind you where hoses and wires go. Tie matching colors, one on each side as you disconnect and you wont be confused when you go to put the engine back in. At work I remove bolts and place them back into the holes they came out of best I can. Get a table or something you can lay everything out on. I lay things out left to right as I take them off, then I just go backwards as I put them back on.
   
   
2. Adopt the policy that anything worth doing is worth overdoing. By that I'm talking about thoroughness. I torque air boot clamps. It's over kill, but its right damnit.
   
   
3. Cleanliness is next to godliness when you tear open your engine, especially as it relates to any fuel systems or oil passages. Tape or plastics plugs can be used to cover them. When you're done working for the night, cover everything. Also, Lint free rags or towels are excellent especially when dealing with mains and rods. I put things on towels to keep them off dirty work tables.
   
   
4. As stated before, measure everything you can find specs for as you can. Quality straight edges, micormeters, feeler gauges, and even dial indicators can be bought for cheap. Especially compared to the price of having to do it over again.
   
   
5. I take everything apart with air tools, and reassemble most everything with torque wrenches. The danger for that for you would be that you lose the muscle memory of how something came apart. I see the same engines day in and day out so I at least have an educated guess how something went.
   
   
6. You don't have to replace everything you take off, but you should inspect everything, and weigh the cost benefit. The more work it takes, and the worse the results if it fails, the more likely am to not only replace, but to spend the money to make sure I have a good one. Oil pumps are an absolute to me, but I'm probably going to reuse the plug wires.
   
   
7. Dont be afraid to ask questions. New guys who dont ask questions in my shop make dumb mistakes that everyone sees (and worse, hears). New guys that do ask questions dont make the same dumb mistakes.
   
   
8. Quality tools can be bought in a lot places. Invest in the right tools. I own snap on, harbor freight, and everything in between.
   
   This is what I use, because it's the same company that makes the snap on ones.

Overpriced...

You can buy a USA made Snap-On quality (rebranded) split-beam torque wrench for a bit more. The Icon is Chinese junk marked up to USA made prices. There's no competition.

https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Instruments-PREC2FR100F-Wrench-Torque/dp/B000YOX568/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526759120&sr=8-3&keywords=split+beam+torque+wrench+3%2F8&dpID=31vJarykCwL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

None of those in the image are torque wrenchs.

Also, I paid $$40 for a torque wrench and breaker bar on Amazon. I got it on sale.

TEKTON 24335 1/2-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (10-150 ft.-lb./13.6-203.5 Nm) with TEKTON 15356 1/2-Inch Drive by 24-Inch Breaker Bar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXO4XEP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Fq5DAbQA845G9

I've got this multi-tip version of a panel key, which looks like it includes your size of triangle key. It's wicked useful and you can't beat the price.

$26 on Amazon, no converting necessary.

Breaker bar to take them off and torque wrench to put them back on: https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24335-2-Inch-ft-lb-13-6-203-5/dp/B01LXO4XEP

17mm socket: https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-14257-2-Inch-Socket-6-Point/dp/B000NPZ5S4

You also need a jack(save the sketchy one with the spare for emergencies only).

If you are going to take more than one wheel off at a time(rotate tires) or go under the car(oil change) you also need jack stands. You can get a jack and 4 jack stands pretty cheap at harbor freight, one of those always on sale things.

Check your manual but I think the lug torque is about 88ft/lbs.

Now that's a lot of stuff and it adds up. It will let you do lots of basic maintenance with this and a few other basic tools though. If you don't want to go that route just pay someone to change the wheels instead of half-assing it with the stuff for the spare tire.

i think CDI makes torque wrenches for snap-on...could be wrong about that. i am pleased with this one i bought a couple years ago. also got a smaller 3/8" drive

i hear that any snap-on tool truck will calibrate them for free but its been a while since i did the research.

hope this helps

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002LA1EDO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Park Tool stuff is solid, but IMO it's far too expensive for anyone but the professional mechanic. You could buy 6 of these for one of those

Really, if you have a kitchen table you have the space, as far as tools, an armorers wrench is all you really NEED, it would be a good idea to try to borrow a torque wrench from someone if you don't want to buy it even though anyone that owns a vehicle should have one. The vice blocks and all are very convenient but not completely necessary.

Edit: Hot damn Harbor freight has a torque wrench on sale right now, grab a center punch to stake your castle nut and a little vice like this one along with it and you can assemble a higher quality upper than Rguns by next week.

You don't need a $300 Snap-on. Look at CDI wrenches, they make Snap-on's wrench.

A $130 CDI 10-100 clicker will be sufficient for all the bolts on your bike, very accurate, well build and most importantly it can be calibrated:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LA19P2/ref=twister_B00LLTCX3G?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

See what kind of torque wrench he has, and if he doesnt, get him a CDI clicker $130 or Snapon electronic torque wrench $600+ .

Baseball bat, crowbar, breaker bar, torque wrench, shovel, hammer.

There's very few ranged weapons that aren't "considered weapons" but I can put together a very effective pneumatic "gun" that can run off my air compressor or a bike pump.

Triplines, snares, and deadfall traps would also work incredibly well.

A felled tree swinging with a rope that you can pull back to drop again and again would be great, they wouldn't care that they just saw a couple thousand pounds of wood shatter their friends, they'd walk right into it too.

EDIT: Removing stuff on second thought I don't really want tied to my username.

> Do you have a model name or # for that torque wrench?

This is the one i have, pretty useful tool for the gun toolbox. When i got it, i redid a bunch of screws i had on other guns, made sure they were all torque down to the correct specs.

Looks like they have a digital version as well, wasn't available when i got mine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081AQDIY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I love this thing. Digital is SO much nicer than click type. I used this on all of my stuff.

CDI is good.

Wait, you mean we're not supposed to use one of these on an impact for that?

I have this one https://www.amazon.com/CDI-602NMRMHSS-Torque-8-Inch-Ratcheting/dp/B002IARRSS/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1484318841&sr=8-6&keywords=cdi+torque. You can buy little pre-set torque wrenches that start at about 5nM, and are much cheaper, if you're just going to make adjustments to the seat post or cockpit.

1. Pedro's has a torque wrench for $150. I like their other tools, but I haven't used this because I don't use torque wrenches. Park Tool has a cheaper one (http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Ratcheting-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0042F8BG4/ref=pd_sim_sbs_sg_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0WB6GBF046GHCXJ6EEH3) but you don't hear good things about cheap torque wrenches.
   
   
2. Brakleen is what you want to use for brake rotors.
   
   
3. Park Tool has some relatively inexpensive folding stands. such as http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-PCS-9-Mechanic-Repair/dp/B000OZFJTI/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1405950778&sr=1-1&keywords=pcs-9
   
   Rear derailleur: Loosen the cable. Make sure your H screw is set so the upper pulley is in line with the smallest cog. Tighten the cable. Shift once. If it doesn't make it to the next gear, tighten the cable by turning the barrel adjuster counter-clockwise. If it shifts too far, loosen the cable by turning the barrel adjuster clockwise. Continue in this fashion all the way through the gears, making small adjustments if needed as you go along. When you reach the lowest gear, push on the derailleur gently while pedaling to make sure the L screw is set properly. If it hits the spokes, tighten it a quarter-turn at a time until it doesn't. Shift all the way back down to high gear again. If the shifts are slow, loosen the cable. If the shifts jump down 2 cogs, tighten the cable.
   
   That should do it. If this doesn't fix the problem, you likely need a new cable.

I've had this one for 3 years now. You really shouldn't work on your bike without one.

Vortex has a good option.

Wheeler also has a digital version of the same FAT Wrench.

This one doesn't look bad either.

I have thought about putting together an "urban" kit something like this:

A variety of different bump keys

Easy to carry set of lock picks

A multi-functional silcock key to access water

A "truckers friend" combination crowbar, axe, hammer

Sawzall blade handle and various blades for cutting metal and wood

And a good pair of gloves

I think this would cover all my bases and be able to get me into or out of pretty much anywhere I can expect to be, but it's a lot of equipment so I think it may be overkill

**The links are just representative of what I have in mind and not the actual product I would purchase.

How cheap?

There's this sort of thing for $40USD

Or these are cheaper and could possibly be hacked to work.


Or you can 3d print something for a couple bucks

https://www.amazon.com/Presa-31003-Torque-Wrench-8-Inch/dp/B00LPY2DLE

A torque wrench is one of the more expensive tools most home mechanics will purchase. As a penny pincher myself, a torque wrench is one I researched a lot before deciding to spend the money. And as frugal as I am, if there's one thing I've learned, it's NEVER to buy tools from Harbor Freight unless you're ok with throwing them away soon. If you're on a tight budget or plan to use tools VERY infrequently, then Harbor Freight can be an ok choice. However, they are the LOWEST quality you could possibly buy and truly are horrible. A torque wrench in particular would be the LAST thing I would by from HF. I'm not sure what your budget is, but you can get a CDI brand torque wrench (CDI is the home mechanic (not pro mechanic) brand of Snap-On and will probably outlast most of us) for about $100. Not to mention it will actually be accurate, whereas the HF may as well be a fortune cookie.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002IARRSS/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1452452698&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX118_SY170_QL70&keywords=cdi+torque+wrench&dpPl=1&dpID=31iIJ8EJESL&ref=plSrch

During the winter months I also have a set of extraction mats. If I'm not getting traction, I slide them under the truck tires, and it gives me a little extra grip. I've only had to use them a few times, but they've really helped when I needed them!

But yeah, get the standard stuff, jumper cables, headlamp, etc.

I like a first aid kit and a few extra tools. I tend to have some of the cheap emergency blankets as well.

I also have this little tool in my console:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071YKX8HN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have used it a grand total of three times. The first time was to help start a gas-fueled fireplace outside of a brewery when the bartender lost their key for it. The second and third time was to drop retractable/foldable posts designed to keep vehicles out of particular areas. However, I had been asked to drive my vehicle into those areas for work purposes and when other people were done they just locked up and left. The second time it happened it was ten degrees, snowing, and with no cell signal. So yeah, for under ten bucks, it has been handy.

This turned out more expensive than I expected because of the tools. Can somebody confirm that I'm buying the right stuff for the job? Am I forgetting anything?
Doesn't have to be Amazon, it's just convenient. 1994 Miata.

• Permatex 81150 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, .33 oz Tube
  
• TEKTON 24325 3/8-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench, 120-960-Inch/Pound
  
• Permatex 81343 Anti-Seize Lubricant, 1 oz. Tube
  
• NGK (9160) ZE21 Premium Spark Plug Wire Set
  
• GearWrench 80546 5/8-Inch x 6-Inch Swivel Spark Plug Socket
  
• NGK (6953) BKR5E-11 V-Power Spark Plug, Pack of 1

What about something like this?

Although, with that price... maybe I will just go with a torque wrench. Do you recommend a torque wrench specific for auto applications like this?

This one has done me well for the last couple years: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0028081GK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_irjCDbT49R9QW

$60, home use just for wheels so far.

Are there any specific reputable beam style wrenches that are still on the market that anyone would recommend?

Most readily available options:

Craftsman 9-32999 for $15 made in a China https://m.sears.com/productdetails/00932999000P

Presa 31003 at Home Depot or Amazon for $25-$30 made in Taiwan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LPY2DLE/

Both have a few reviews that describe the wenches breaking at a mid range torque. Harbor Freight doesn't seem to sell them.

Now I got get me one of those.

https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-Electric-Tools-49-16-2767-Protective/dp/B079C5FJ2C/ref=pd_bxgy_469_img_2/137-3322713-6648149?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B079C5FJ2C&pd_rd_r=348254f4-660f-11e9-afd4-2da01f345a74&pd_rd_w=IZYcc&pd_rd_wg=J3oCY&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=ZV6SZCERM49BJS2ZW64A&psc=1&refRID=ZV6SZCERM49BJS2ZW64A

The only thing specifically you need is punches, rubber hammer, barrel wrench, castle nut wrench, muzzle wrench and a torque wrench. (A lot of times the barrel, castle and muzzle wrench is all one thing )I would suggest a tapco ar15 wrench which is best quality, and it has all those things included. I would say ar15 wrench can be had here Tapco Intrafuse AR Armorer's Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006PTMYHM/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_B-G9ub1ZJDXT8 for $30.00 another $30.00 Pittsburgh Professional 1/2" Drive Click Stop Torque Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006ZB9GKI/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_i.G9ub106TFPX for a torque wrench. And at a local harbor freight you can get punches for $10.00 and rubber hammer for $1.50. So I would say it would be a good investment for two reasons, you can use the tools again for friends/ family or more builds later. That and you can save yourself money, and see it as your getting these tools for free and maybe saving another $50.00 bucks

I agree with u/Vadhakara, perhaps a torque multiplier would be a preferable solution rather than:

1. Destroying a tool.
   
   
2. Damaging equipment.
   
   
3. Putting others in danger because of your stupidity.
   
   
4. Getting fired.
   
   Use the right tool for the job, if you don't have the right tool get the right tool, if you don't want to buy the tool, don't do the job.

>but be careful with cheap torque wrenches. They're made in China and are rarely calibrated accurately.

Any suggestions which brands would be not cheap? and what should I expect to pay for a decent torque wrench?


Also below are both 3/8 wrenches one is measured in inches 120-960 the other is feet, 10-80, which converts to the same exact measurements, is there a benefit to having a wrench in inches over feet or vice versa?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FMPKAD0

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5ZL12Y

No, I haven't. I do have one, I bought it on amazon and only occasionally use it. It works fine, but I have no idea how accurate it is. EPAuto 1/4" Drive Click Torque Wrench, 20 ~ 200 in./lb., 2.26 ~ 22.6 N/m https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LX4ND65/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MLuLyb4VR55TJ

Why that Precision Instruments wrench over a CDI torque wrench, which is who makes Snap-On's torque wrenches, last I checked?
I'm asking for research purposes, not criticism.

I have this saved in my tool wish list.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LA19P2/

I call them manual lug nut remover. :D

http://www.amazon.com/TORQUE-MULTIPLIER-LABOR-SAVING-WRENCH/dp/B00BS101IQ

I have this kit in red case, or something very close to it.

I have the one from Amazon in your edit and it's served me well thus far. I do also have a second smaller one though to compliment it:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Mighty-880275-Torque-Wrench-Black/dp/B001R4BR1O/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1421496527&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=mighty+Torque+Wrench

Nah, you just need a torque multiplier. Way cheaper.

My mistake, I didn't remember correctly. I didn't buy it on Amazon, but on Ebay. This is a link to it http://www.ebay.it/itm/252479748000
The brainding is M-ighty, but it does look the same as the Amazon one.

Here is a link to (Italian) amazon for a M-ighty wrench. Cheaper than what I paid for, too.
https://www.amazon.it/Mighty-880275-Strumenti-Chiavi-Dinamometriche/dp/B001R4BR1O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481135738&sr=8-1&keywords=m-ighty

Here is the cheaper analog version
https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520352426&sr=8-1&keywords=fat+wrench

Here is the digital version that I bought.
https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-710909-Digital-Firearms-Accurizing/dp/B01B3NW5TG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1520352426&sr=8-2&keywords=fat+wrench

I think the PI wrench or the CDI wrench is about 150 (1/2 inch drive).

http://www.amazon.com/CDI-Torque-2503MFRMH-Micrometer-Adjustable/dp/B002LA1EDO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450228327&sr=8-1&keywords=CDI+1%2F2+torque

Also can be had for under $30

1/2", 3/8", 1/4". If you don't already have one, the Upper Vice Block is under $20 or under $30 for the pair on the same item.