Best air conditioner accessories according to redditors

We found 116 Reddit comments discussing the best air conditioner accessories. We ranked the 40 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Air Conditioner Accessories:

u/strongcode · 13 pointsr/Twitch

Here's a list of stuff everyone should/can be doing to reduce any background noise.

  • Use a dynamic mic if you aren't already
  • Try to have your setup in a carpeted room. The less flat the room is, the less the sound will reverberate
  • If you have a fan or vent and you can't turn it off, try funneling the airflow away from your mic setup. Try something like this to direct airflow away from you.
  • Reduce gain levels and physically move your mouth closer to the mic, but not too close. You may also want a spit guard.
  • Check that this isn't actually electrical interference. Try to shut down any electronics near you that aren't needed, and run your mic and PC setups out of the same outlet if possible. This could also be due to bad shielding on the mic input to your PC.
  • Get a pop/wind filter for your mic like this
  • If all else fails, you can try to edit it out in post production. Here is a great tutorial on how to do that in Audacity, but there are various other programs/plugins that will help you do this.

    Hope this helps you and others!
u/gooberfaced · 8 pointsr/mildlyinfuriating

Is there no tiny wheel to redirect the air at an angle into the room rather than straight up?
If not you can buy add on deflectors at any big box store or even Amazon..

u/jam905 · 6 pointsr/homeautomation

Several solutions that I know off:

u/encarded · 5 pointsr/Ultralight

I made one for my Hexamid, it was quite easy. I would suggest trying to find a window insulation kit (which is polycryo material). They usually come in large sheets far in excess of what you need for a decent bathtub and include a double sided tape. I know you are not in the US but this is what I used, for reference: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015PY2BY8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My procedure was to measure out my desired area (taking into consideration how high of a wall you want) and then I googled a way to triangle fold corners that create a waterproof fold. Use the tape to secure and I folded over the top edge to increase resistance to tearing. You can also put some tenacious tape or other strong tape on the corners so that you can punch a small hole for mitten hooks.

Measure twice, cut once. Mine turned out to be almost the same weight as the DCF bathtub available from ZPacks (just slightly over 3oz) and has had no issues or problems in use.

u/lfulfq · 4 pointsr/london

So, we just got an AirCon unit and this thing has been amazing:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07CCMZ3FD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

It's a seal that goes around the window. You can still open and close the window... but it should stop the huge birds coming in!

u/PsychologyOfLove · 4 pointsr/CampingGear

Check out some of the discount sites as well, such as http://www.sierratradingpost.com/ https://www.steepandcheap.com/ https://www.backcountry.com/ https://www.campmor.com/

If you're backpacking with it, 6 pounds is gonna weigh you down a fair amount. You could probably find something for the price range you're looking for that weighs 4-5 lbs. If you look hard enough, you might even find something for 3ish lbs.

Consider the features. Are you planning to camp alone most of the time, but want the extra space for gear and an occasional extra person? If so, grab a 2-man tent and worry less about having two doors. Are you planning to almost always go with another person? Consider 2 or 3 man tents (2 man will leave you just enough room to put 2 sleeping pads side by side in most tents) and keep in mind the weight can be split between you. If you're backpacking alone most of the time, then you're better off saving weight on a lighter 2-man tent. Carrying an extra 2 lbs of tent to have extra space for a rare extra camper is going to suck on all those solo trips. Other features to consider: pockets, double-wall construction (helps limit condensation), and free-standing or not (free-standing you can pitch anywhere, including rock - non-free standing requires several spots for you to stake out the tent to keep it taught and upright).

Also, save yourself $50 and don't buy a footprint. Make one! If you're camping on nice soft forest floor, you can get away with something thin that's primary job is preventing moisture and minor pokey things. In that case, buy this https://www.amazon.com/Duck-284352-Heavy-Duty-Insulation-120-Inch/dp/B015PY2BTS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495502434&sr=8-2&keywords=duck+window+kit and cut it down to be about 1.5 inches smaller on each side relative to your tent bottom (you don't want it to catch and funnel rain underneath the tent). You could consider beefing up the sides with some tape and grommets for the stake points. Check out the /r/Ultralight community - they have several guides on making your own footprint. If weight is less of a concern and you're expecting to be on rough terrain like rock, then you could make a floorprint out of tyvek which can be purchased at a place like home depot.

u/EmeraldGirl · 3 pointsr/funny

Did you have to link to a site with annoying popups and crap? They have these things on amazon.

u/inu-no-policemen · 3 pointsr/lasercutting

I see blue light on the wall.

CO2 lasers emit long-wavelength infrared. It's pure heat. Getting that in your eye is like getting a blowtorch in your eye. There is a chance to restore some of your eyesight with an operation.

Diode lasers are in the visible spectrum. It fries the retina directly. There is no way to undo that.

Take this more seriously.

The fume extraction is about right. Ideally, the extractor fan is as close as possible to the exit in order to keep most of the ducting negatively pressurized.

Use a plank, cardboard, or whatever to cover the rest of the slit.

You can also buy that kind of thing on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R65112D/ (just the first one which popped up, not the cheapest one)

u/losfew · 3 pointsr/Ultralight

I use this polycryo sheeting. It's 2x the thickness of the regular duty stuff, but weighs only a few grams more. I thought I'd get two ground sheets out of one 84x120 piece, but the resulting 5'x7' is just a bit small.

Super tough, I have 20+ nights on mine in all kinds of conditions, seems totally intact.

u/Oreoloveboss · 3 pointsr/CampingGear

https://www.amazon.com/Duck-Strength-Insulating-120-Inch-284352/dp/B015PY2BTS/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=heavy+duty+patio+door+insulation&qid=1568728824&sr=8-4

Most people go for that heavy duty patio door one. Stake out your tent over top of the sheet, then cut the sheet to size, slightly smaller than your tent.

u/reducing2radius · 3 pointsr/SeattleWA

Buy an extra long portable AC hose from Amazon if you need it, and hire a handyman to install the kit as best as possible. No need for a contractor, and I can't think of a store that would send help for this type of thing.

You could also just let the hose hang outside the window, and the AC will probably be able to overcome the infiltration from the window. That's all the kit is for, to seal up the window from letting extra heat in from the outside or the hose itself. Alternatively you could prevent infiltration by pointing a fan at the open window with the hose hanging out of it, to keep the air moving from inside to outside. You'll want to put the AC away in a couple months anyways. It's a tricky situation.

Edit: I also found this thing. A handyman could install that for you.

u/Paullesq · 3 pointsr/singapore

I got charged about $4K the replacement of every exterior window. The contractor took care of all the permits. This was probably the most restrictive part of the job and made up the vast majority of my improved insulation costs. If you are dealing with HDB, my experience was that while it was somewhat expensive, things were relatively smooth. If I had to do this again, I would have done just the bedrooms. I roughly estimate that if I were to expect these windows to repay themselves with my reduced PUB bill, I estimate my repayment time is going to be around 10-15 years.--Not great, not terrible.


I do wish that HDB would allow homeowners to take a course on safety precautions and then have them pay a fee for liability insurance and then allow us to do it ourselves. It did not look very difficult. It would save people money and make this sort of renovation much more accessible to Singaporeans. I went on Amazon and calculated that the actual cost of all the windows I installed was about S$1500 if I were in the US, so a lot of money went into the labor and permitting process.


If you don't want to do this, there are still options. My original HDB installed window frame did not have very good weather sealing. This was a significant source of noise and heat gain. Fixing this was easy with a caulking gun. I found that some heavy curtains were quite helpful, I still use them even after the new windows were installed. There are high thickness anti-convection Insulating window films are around. I tried them on one window and it was actually very effective with the thick curtains at cutting down the noise. To my ears, only slightly worse than the double-glazing. I think it would have given me almost as good energy saving if I used it on every room with aircon.--I don't have hard numbers The downside was that this solution was ugly and needed to be replaced often. Application needs a bit of practice, but if you get it wrong, the film is easy to remove. The film itself is very cheap. IIRC I used something like this.--same brand. As you can see, if you are willing to put up with the disadvantages this might actually be the best choice financially.

https://www.amazon.com/Duck-Strength-Insulating-3-Window-284351/dp/B015PY2BY8


As before, there are a quite a few things you can do to get a decent amount of sound reduction. In any case, if you are going to pay for new windows, they will not help you much unless you have good weather sealing and well insulated doors. There are things you can do that will improve things even if you don't want to spend that sort of money. And if you do, there are things that you MUST do in order for you to enjoy the best benefit from what money you do decide to spend. Don't give in to that sinkie learned helplessness where everything also cannot do! It is 2019, we have so many options to make our lives better.

u/BecauseSometimesY · 2 pointsr/WildernessBackpacking

It is the same as this too! You could pick it up at like Walmart or Ace.

u/slardybartfast8 · 2 pointsr/britishproblems

yes sash are most common but you can definitely get a different type for push-out windows. not sure if links below will work but you either get a special one like this:

https://tinyurl.com/y3e2c37g


or you get a standing up one like the one shown in this photo and use a window seal:

https://tinyurl.com/y6f97far

u/akelis · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

People aren't using temporary mounts. Instead, they buy one like this: https://www.amazon.com/AC-Safe-AC-080-Light-Duty-Conditioner/dp/B002YFWDXQ

Then, they grab a drill, make a couple holes in the windowsill, make a couple holes in the siding, then drive big-ass screws in.

And then, when summer is over, they take it all out, and just leave it.

u/huuvola · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Yup, I use a similar product (AmbiClimate) and it's awesome.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076BCPJP4/ref=psdc_13397451_t1_B07MTGD3D9

u/xxwass · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement
u/Chytrik · 2 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

Ha, fair enough, I've heard the ass-savers aren't really all that great, outside of very light rain conditions.

This one seems to be a cheap favourite of many people

u/CappyChino · 2 pointsr/NoStupidQuestions

As long as there's a few inches of clearance between the bed and the floor you'll be fine. You can even buy a vent deflector to help the air flow out from under the bed easier... Example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009W3G7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QNH5CbZ8SVCVF

u/Deux1 · 2 pointsr/HVAC

Air source heat pumps lose efficiency as outdoor air temperature drops. The compressor has to work harder. Put an acoustic blanket like this one around the compressor(s). It'll reduce the dBA level by 40%. Much cheaper than an acoustic box.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B008J5H6I2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?slotNum=2&language=en_US&ie=UTF8&linkCode=g12&linkId=a1294a23791123d47df71a7ad2727573&imprToken=pxv32azsr7mR3hiGlzI67w&tag=hitthegolbal-21

u/holmgren · 2 pointsr/HVAC

You can try this/ Only 10 bucks. so not a huge deal if it doesn't work. https://www.amazon.com/AnyCommand-Universal-Remote-Control-ACR-01/dp/B004368NG0/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_t

u/OneEy3dMonkey · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/Xponic · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

Or you could just save yourself a lot of time and get one of these: Window Vent Kits

One of my grows I ducted the exhaust from the tent with the exhaust from a "portable"air conditioner that cooled the tent. I did with a 3-way duct similar to this: Wye Duct

u/ZombiiSoup · 2 pointsr/battlestations

I do believe it's this one, I have it on my wishlist
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01F8CIS58/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_K0LuDb29TQKR3

u/DrkMith · 2 pointsr/Nest

There are smart controls for window A/C units with IR remote control

MOES WiFi Smart IR Remote Controller Smart Home Infrared Universal Remote Blaster,One for All Control AC TV DVD CD AUD SAT etc,Compatible with Alexa and Google Home,No Hub Required https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QH1X7PX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SV2pDbJY76JJR


atomi Smart Air Conditioner Adaptor, WiFi Thermometer Monitoring, Provides Smart AC Control, Compatible with Amazon Alexa, Google Home, iOS and Android, Control temperature from anywhere https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MZ6BHMZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MX2pDbG6043GY

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010ACFKNE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_6S2pDbBSTBKR9

Sensibo Sky (International) - Air Conditioner Controller, Wi-Fi, Compatible with iOS and Android, Compatible with Alexa & Google Home https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU2YSR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gV2pDb1JNWVF2


Ambi Climate 2 Smart Air Conditioner Controller - AI Powered, WiFi Enabled | Works with Alexa, Siri, Google Home, IFTTT, iOS, Android | Auto Temp Control for Window Units, Mini Split & Portable Units https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076BCPJP4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hX2pDbWDXSG28


But using the nest sensor to control it, that's not possible. You could use another nest in the room and have it actuate a relay that tells a arduino or raspberry pi to send an IR signal to the A/C.....you can do all kind if things

u/ProdigySim · 2 pointsr/SeattleWA

Yeah, the ones that sit on the floor and use a hose for exhaust are called "Portable Air Conditioners" apparently. They also often have remote controls.

My plan was basically to get a portable A/C and one of these insulating window seals since my window opens outwards. However, my only window is 15 feet up (I normally open it using a pole my landlord provided me).

So add together getting the unit + proper tubing and coupling + insulating the window + needing a ladder and I thought I'd see if someone in town was better at it.

Sounds like most people just DIY though and that's probably enough for 90%+ of apartments :)

u/Dogwoodhikes · 2 pointsr/Ultralight

Window film or food wrap or shrink wrap like the Duck Brand found cheaply at Wally World also comes in different thickness(mils). When more concerned about punctures or tears and stress pts like when making polycro bathtub floors I receive better durability with Duck Max at 1.5 mils(150 gauge) which is more than twice the thickness of the .7 mils(70 gauge) Duck brand product you've linked. https://www.amazon.com/Duck-Strength-Insulating-120-Inch-284352/dp/B015PY2BTS

Painters plastic in .7 or 1.5 mils in the same comparative polycro wt doesn't have the same shrink potential. I've stored painter's plastic in my car trunk no big issue. With either .7, .75, 1.0 or 1.5 poly it can shrink up into a hard ball with heat. It 's why it's alternatively called shrink wrap and the Duck Brand box pictures shows someone with a heat gun attaching it taut to a window.

​

IMHO, the lightest wt polycro is a darling of the UL and SUL crowd which I am part so that factors into my decision to use it over painter's plastic. I tend to buy from GG, MLD, and other UL cottage venders that offer it so I buy at the same time as other gear although, as said, Duck Brand is found in cheaply IMO every Wally World I've looked.

​

As far as GG polycro it is also offered in two different thickness .75 mils(75 gauge) and 1.0 mil(100 gauge). Others such as MLD also offer polycro. Ron at MLD has stated his poly offering is food grade so don't know if that chemically makes a personal difference. At $8 -$9.95 for up to two polycro ground sheets I personally don't find that all expensive compared to large rolls of painters plastic when only using for backpacking.

​

Obviously when making performance claims on durability one has to compare oranges to oranges ie; compare the same thicknesses of poly and painter's plastic as Friggin monkey said.

​

What may be a personal consideration is the lighter the wt of either painter's plastic or polycro the more it tends to blow around. Also, it tends to tear uncontrollably in the lightest wts(thicknesses) if not immediately addressed with duct tape repairs. Neither is a ripstop material. Consequently, at some pt if not totally replacing, as in DCF ground cloths, the duct tape added wt can easily result in greater wt and bulk and additionally adhesive hassles unfolding and sticking to other gear....so....It's also quite slippery so don't use it to cowboy camp on an incline.

u/motARTion · 2 pointsr/vancouver

I got that exact unit a few weeks ago. It does that job very well. The one issue though is that even the highest fan speed isn't very forceful so you may have to make a fan chain to get the cool air in more awkward corners of your place.

Some additional notes is that for me the hoses weren't long enough at 8ish ft. Hose extension are not cheap. Additionally my specific window opening couldn't use the included mount so I snagged this: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B07CCMZ3FD/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526335183&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=home%2Bwindow%2Bseal&dpPl=1&dpID=51vhGdgSocL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1

u/Battle_Rattle · 2 pointsr/Ultralight

Most people find the .75mil too thin and double it up. Instead of that just get the 1.5mil.

u/krully37 · 2 pointsr/france

C’est pareil pour moi et je les ai laissés entrouverts attachés avec un serre câble en fait juste de quoi passer le tuyau pour que l’air souffle bien dehors et le soleil ne passe que peu . Après ça isole relativement bien donc l’air ne revient pas mais c’est sur que si tes volets sont totalement fermés ça n’ira pas.

C’est ce modèle : HOOMEE Isolant Climatisation... https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B07C986TBQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share attention pour les dimensions à bien prendre les 4 cotes de la fenêtre que tu isoles, si c’est une fenêtre « double » tu ne comptes qu’une des deux fenêtres.

u/AutoGeek3000 · 1 pointr/shortcuts

Not sure a Nest will work with a window AC. I think you'd need something like this:

http://amzn.com/B07MTGD3D9

u/theredkrawler · 1 pointr/refrigeration

You can insulate the compressor no problem. They are cooled by the refrigerant and the motor heat removed via the condenser, so insulating the compressor itself won't cause any problems... though personally I would leave the electrical area exposed to allow heat from the relay to escape.

Air conditioners often insulate their compressors to reduce noise and condensation, and use covers like these: https://www.amazon.com/Brinmar-SBUHD-Universal-Fit-Conditioner-Compressor/dp/B008J5H6I2

Not sure on your use of material. You can poke it around anything you think is rattling I guess. Compressors in bar bridges tend to be pretty quiet, so it could be a pipe just gently tapping away on a metal edge somewhere. Usually no fan motors associated with bar fridges, so it's unlikely to be a fan.

u/chinese-newspaper · 1 pointr/AskUK

yes, well at least you can get ones that work on casement windows. eg. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07C986TBQ

u/KeatonOn · 1 pointr/HVAC

Like 3.5' x 2.5'. Or, at least, I think that large noisy vent in a central location is the return...

Aftermarket compressor sound blanket wraps are indeed a thing I don't know much about them either.

u/Eyebanger · 1 pointr/microgrowery

Update!

I am working on moving the drivers outside of the tent. I also found a window exhaust kit so I can vent the heat outside with minimal modification. I did move the fan inside the tent as well.

Let’s see how it goes!

u/j91co · 1 pointr/DIY

I appreciate your response! The problem is that I am not permitted to drill the holes outside that most kits require and others I have tried flunked out.

The kit below wanted holes in the sill or frame (which you can see in one photo), the problem was I couldn't get purchase cause my drill hits something too hard to get through. The sill is made of some weird rock looking material that I wasn't sure if I should try to use. I also tried a tool-less kit but the living room window is a double, and expanding "arms" would not be anchored by the wall and all the weight would be on the bottom of the window frame.

Thats why I thought of popping on an L angle to each side, the window would have to fall apart or something before the A/C could come loose.

https://www.amazon.com/AC-Safe-AC-080-Light-Duty-Conditioner/dp/B002YFWDXQ
https://www.amazon.com/EZ-AC-Air-Conditioner-Support-Drilling-Required/dp/B01D8NAZTQ

Window Side View

u/neonturbo · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement
  • New units are tons quieter. That, and moving it would be the best way to solve it, but not the cheapest.

  • A compressor blanket might help somewhat if yours doesn't already have one. Be sure to shut off the power before digging around in there. Check the size, but this is one product in that category. https://www.amazon.com/Brinmar-SBUHD-Universal-Fit-Conditioner-Compressor/dp/B008J5H6I2

  • Have an HVAC tech check pressures and temperatures, and adjust "freon" charge if needed. Under or overcharged units can be noisy.

  • Don't restrict the airflow. The install manual for your condenser unit will call out the minimum required clearances. Three foot is a general rule from what I have observed.
u/Union__Jack · 1 pointr/Ultralight

I used this one and cut it down. Note that it's thicker than most others, but my 81*47/39 is 2.8 oz and sturdy. 1.5 mil is 1.5 thousandths of an inch.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PY2BTS

u/weensatrap · 1 pointr/DIY

Do a search for ductless or portable AC. There’s a bunch of units you can get in the $300-500 range. Target or Amazon... You could move it around the apartment with you from room to room and no need to open any windows or doors.
Might work for you ;)

Edit: link added
Honeywell MO08CESWK Compact Portable Air Conditioner with Dehumidifier and Fan for Rooms Up To 350 Sq. Ft. With Remote Control (Black/White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078W54RDC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kDlqDb2721HHM

There’s also an adapter for side open windows!
HOOMEE 300 cm Universal Window Seal for Portable Air Conditioner and Tumble Dryer - Works with Every Mobile Air-Conditioning Unit, Easy to Install - Air Exchange Guards with Zip and Adhesive Fastener https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C986TBQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lFlqDbQTVM2GD

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/buildapc

Would your cables still reach if you just turned the computer around?

Realized your GPU and PSU would still be blowing out the back. That and your GPU would no longer have access to cooler air brought in by the front intake.

If turning it around isn't an option, seal your exhaust fans and attach http://www.homedepot.com/p/Master-Flow-Mobile-Home-12-in-x-25-ft-Insulated-Flexible-Duct-R4-2-Black-Jacket-MIF12X300/202191788, then reroute the air somewhere else.

Or work with these:

http://www.amazon.com/Model-Premium-Unbreakable-Air-Deflector/dp/B00009W3G7/

http://www.amazon.com/Deflect-O-Corp-99-Air-Deflector/dp/B0006SD0XA

Heat/air deflectors. Or a combination of other plastics to reroute the air coming out.

u/sleepingdeep · 1 pointr/AskReddit
u/heurelius · 1 pointr/HVAC

Mitsubishi for sure. If you're spending some dough, then I'd get one of this as well - http://www.amazon.com/AirPatrol-Control-Conditioner-Smartphone-Anywhere/dp/B00P2KP0MQ

u/mezzzolino · 1 pointr/homelab

When I was working at university in a non-technical environment with some serious servers (good-guy-boss :) ), we had the janitors to install holes in the windows to fit the air outtakes of a portable AC.

If cutting circles into glass is not an option (which I assume), why not at least try some window seals like this (no recommendation for this product, just my first hit)

u/Thracka951 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I’m not normally a home automation guy, but I use Sensibo AC controllers (need to have the ability to use an IR remote control). It’s cut the cooling costs at my house by about $125/month so they already paid themselves off in 3 months.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MTGD3D9

Big fans help a lot when it comes to moving the air around and keeping the AC cycles efficient.
I have these and love them:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0X1SOY

I also have applied heat blocking window film on my east and west facing windows that cook in the sun all day.

Beyond that, I’m constantly making insulation and air sealing improvements around the house.

Last year I was paying about $300/mo during the summer, now I’m down to about $150-175.

u/11787 · 1 pointr/HVAC

And I'll thank you too.

https://www.amazon.com/Brinmar-SBUHD-Universal-Fit-Conditioner-Compressor/dp/B008J5H6I2

That stuff is not cheap. :-(....but still doable.

u/Xereth4586 · 1 pointr/battlestations

HAVIT Extended Mouse Pad, Extra Large Magic Eagle Gaming Mouse Mat with Anti-skid and Waterproof Rubber Base, 35.43 X 11.8 X 0.12" (MP830, Black) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01F8CIS58/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IOTkDbH0HJK99

u/Glibberosh · 1 pointr/CrappyDesign

Criminy. $7 fix. Has little magnets that holds it to the vent.

https://www.amazon.com/Deflecto-50-Premium-Unbreakable-Deflector/dp/B00009W3G7

u/ADSquared · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Yea I just bought this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IXWL72G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_89TpDbKAVZ4GJ

So that I can seal the window that I'm gonna vent out of. Thanks!

u/ottiecat · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon
u/riseofbigbass · 1 pointr/answers
u/MrHaVoC805 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

You can control your window AC with this (app, web portal, Alexa) as long as the AC has an infrared remote capability:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P2KP0MQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_nlx8ybTGWYFZ5


Then use this thermostat for the central HVAC unit.

Ecobee3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZIRV39M/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Nlx8ybHQE7BMW


A window AC is cheaper, but you'll get better results adding a unit to your central system for sure.

u/Bone-Juice · 1 pointr/microgrowery

>Maybe there is a window exhaust kit that these issues...

Portable AC units come with a window exhaust kit that should work

​

Edit: there are several on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dezirZJjx-Window-Adapter-Portable-Conditioner/dp/B07Q5L878C/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=window+exhaust+kit&qid=1556925463&s=gateway&sr=8-4

u/vt4000 · 1 pointr/SeattleWA

Here you go.

As long as your window opening is wide enough to fit the AC unit, it'll work.

u/tannebil · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Two cautions come up about this approach. First, make sure your smart plug can handle the load. The Wemo is supposed to be able to handle 1800w which is a typical US wall outlet but some outlets are wired with 20 amp circuits so you will want to double-check the specs for your AC. The other is that fast cycling your unit can damage it so you'll want to make sure that there is a decent delay between cycles. A few minutes at least. You could do this by setting at least a 3-4 degree difference between the on and off settings. But it's something to be aware of if you are manually controlling it.

You also need to make sure your unit auto-starts after cutting the power. Not sure about AC units but lots of space heaters and coffee pots need to be manually turned back on after the power is cut and restored.

I saw this on Amazon. It's a little expensive but makes all those problems go away (replacing them with different ones I'm sure).

https://www.amazon.com/AirPatrol-Conditioner-Controller-mini-split-Compatible/dp/B00P2KP0MQ

u/arizona-lad · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Nope.

For the heating, you are looking at what is known as a line voltage thermostat. It works by turning a 240v circuit on and off as needed.

It you want to control an A/C that has a wireless remote, you may want to look at a device such as Cuby, Flair, or AirControl:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Cuby-Smart-Smart-Mini-Split-AC-WiFi-Programmable-Air-Conditioner-Controller-CUBY-2WE/303128427

https://flair.co/pages/mini-splits-and-window-units

https://www.amazon.com/AirPatrol-Conditioner-Controller-mini-split-Compatible/dp/B00P2KP0MQ

You would not install a thermostat, per se; you'd be installing a controller that would talk to the unit.

u/skoomd1 · 1 pointr/microgrowery

Here's what those portable AC window things look like.

https://www.amazon.com/Whynter-ARC-WK-SINGN-Plastic-portable-conditioners/dp/B0048ELAA8

So you would slide it up against that and run your duct through it. I thought I saw one that was insulated but i cant find it

u/IDoMindTheDudeMinds · 1 pointr/houseplants

You should be fine. If you're concerned about it, use [these] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PY2BTS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_yjxBDb7QFF7SK) to prevent drafts.

u/themadscribe · 1 pointr/Ultralight

I have only used Tyvek as a groundsheet, but will be switching this year to save weight.

Dude made a polycro tarp out of window film.

The Heavy Duty Duck Brand seems to be have its share of fans.

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