(Part 3) Best car amplifier installation products according to redditors
We found 1,207 Reddit comments discussing the best car amplifier installation products. We ranked the 198 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
![SoundBot SB363 3.5mm Ground Loop Noise Isolator Adapter Remover[Buzzing Eliminator Hissing Filter] Speaker/Car Audio Stereo System/Bluetooth Adapter Receiver/Car Kit/Home Audio w/Built-in AUX Cable](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41BKUjM6BmL.jpg)
![Noise Filter Cable Ring, VSKEY [10pcs 3.5mm] Anti-Interference Noise Filters Ferrite Core Choke Clip for Telephones,Tvs,Speakers,Video,Radio,Audio Equipment & Appliances Power Audio (3.5mm)](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/415DKGRnghL._SL500_.jpg)
Sounds like you're close to a transmitter of some kind. Could be a radio station, ham radio, baby monitor, etc.
If so it's not the bluetooth that's picking it up, it's the amp circuit in the speaker or the speaker itself.
You can add a ferrite bead to the audio cable between the dac/amp and speaker.
https://www.amazon.com/VSKEY-Anti-Interference-Telephones-Equipment-Appliances/dp/B078XKHLKG/
internal shot
Parts list:
Tools:
STL for 3d printing:
All three files
Wiring diagram:
Terrible MS paint Diagram
That thing has 65% 1& 2 star reviews and an overall rating of 2.3 out of 5 stars on US Amazon.
Infinity Reference 5 channel amp - $239.99
[4 AWG amp kit] (https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-RWK4CU-Copper-Complete-Installation/dp/B019Z3RCG2/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1550159767&sr=8-6&keywords=4+awg+amp+kit) - $49.95
9 wire - $24.95
Additional RCAs - $19.99
4 channel LOC - $23.34 - You need this because you're keeping your factory radio
RCA splitter - $7.45 - To get the 4 channel LOC to 6 channels for the amp's input. There's maybe other ways you could do this, but this is what I would do because it'd be the simplest to swap the radio in the future.
Infinity Reference 6.5" for the doors - $56.95/pair x 2 = $113.90
Infinity Reference 3.5" for the dash - $48.70
= $528.37 + Installation which will easily run between $200 - $350
If you'd like to spend a bit more you might ask about sound dampening on the doors. Or you might save the extra and put it towards replacing the radio in the future.
The Boss one certainly is, you think the one on the right is garbage? Can you recommend something better (it needs to be very flexible for a DC offgrid application).
This is the things that I wrote for another guy, and since I already have it typed I'm just pasting it here. Since it's such a small battery my idea (155Ah) is to charge it with my alternator.
 
I would use that accessory to plug stuff that use 12v like cellphone charger,fans etc. It's best to run things directly from the 12v DC instead of converting it to AC and then again converting it to DC.
Those cables are over-kill, but that's what I would buy because they are not that expensive and it doesn't hurt.
 
This is how I would connect everything. It totals around $475 US.
What’s your mic setup?
Depending on where the noise is coming from, you can use a ground loop noise isolator to reduce or cut out background noise from components.
I can personally vouch for this working in a duo-stream setup with a stand-alone streaming PC. We have one on each of the mic inputs (ATH-ADG1X headsets) iirc - between each headset and its respective gaming PC, and additionally each headset split to an input on the streaming PC. Overall the setup is kind of a mess, and eventually we’d like to get a good mixer setup to make things simpler, but this sounds decent and has worked better for our sort of unique use-case scenario than anything else thus far.
Don’t get those garbage kits. The Rockford is a really good enclosure but it’s quiet, won’t get you the hard hitting bass. These will help with that a little
Subs: 2 Alpine type S
Amp: DD audio DM1000a
Box: either get it custom built or get a good prefab like this one which is well over recommended space for the Alpine’s. Measure your trunk first.
Wiring kit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019Z3RCG2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mgCLBbE45VETK
Then why not use a solar window fan on one window and screens on the rest to force in fresh air? They charge up then run on battery power at night.
great write up. there are some shortcomings in the authors system which he described quite honestly but offered little to no alternatives. let me quickly re-iterate those downsides so i can explain my solutions.
typical pv solar cells have a life cycle of only about a decade or two. lead-acid batteries have a similar life span and have the added fuckery of being nigh impossible to dispose of cleanly when they are spent. combine this with the diesel used to run backups, this personal grid is almost entirely reliant on the national grid for fuel and spare part deliveries. additionally, there are not enough trees on hawaii to rely on wood burning for warmth indefinitely. the author admits this system (including spare parts and backups) only has a life span of about 30-50 years which is a fairly long time. but if you plan on your grandkids surviving, they wont be able to benefit from this type of personal grid set up.
solutions:
atmospheric electricity can be harvested, used and stored with parts almost entirely built from scrap and it requires only 4 or 5 different parts. all this requires is an antenna that is as long as possible with as much surface area as possible as high up in the air (ideally above the treeline) as possible connected to a grounding rod that ideally goes as deep into the earth as the antenna is high with a motor/generator in between. the ionosphere of the earth itself powers the motor day AND night, rain OR shine(in fact voltage increases during storms). alls else you need is a capacitor/battery bank for energy storage. meaning the system has a lifecycle as long as your batteries/capacitors last and as long as the earth has an ionosphere which can be MUCH longer than 30-50 years if you use saltwater batteries and graphite/graphene capacitors, both of which can be easily built at home using fairly common materials.
https://ionpowergroup.com/proof-of-concept-clips/
robert murray smith has been working on simple yet powerful DIY acid-free battery/capacitor tech for years and is WELL worth looking into. he has a company that sells conductive ink which you can use to make capacitors and batteries out of paper. if you browse his youtube channel you can find out how to make conductive ink, capacitors and batteries by yourself at home
https://youtu.be/pMLcWE6NLgM
how to replace your car battery with a capacitor bank
https://youtu.be/4rjkNcKbEgg
https://www.amazon.com/Shaluoman-Farad-Capacitor-35X60MM-Protection/dp/B0162NYWUW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=supercapacitor&qid=1571245722&sr=8-3#
edit: if you dont care about pollution, there will probably be a fuck ton of useless pennies everywhere after the fall which can be used with nickel washers to make battery cells as well
the other guy is right, you could do with wing nuts or whatever, but these made it easy to solder to on the inside and are super easy to connect to for the antenna. and they look nice!!
Does your car have headrest speakers?
Mine were the factory speakers and blown all to hell and back. I picked up this set of four Kickers and installed them in a half hour.They won't win any stereo competitions, but they sound fantastic and I can hear music at low volumes.
We have two cats that chew on wires (including phone chargers and headphone cables). Using something like this cord wrap stuff, makes it unpleasant to chew.
This seems like a good option! Set it on your dash to charge or just change the batteries.
You guys need a ground loop isolator. I had this exact issue and it fixed it
​
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071W65PPC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Oh goodie, so that's basically the easiest possible combination. (I was asking about steering wheel controls and subwoofers because you'd need even more adapters for those. And auto climate control makes the din kit a pain in the ass, you gotta import it from Japan. But yours looks like a base model without any of that.)
So you're going to need:
Crutchfield also has some good resources. The only thing is that the aux port under the palm rest won't work anymore, unless you can find a way to adapt it to the new stereo. Many new stereos don't even support aux anymore. Also the Sony I mentioned (probably amongst others) has a USB port hanging off the back, so you'll need to get a USB extension and run it to somewhere in the car. Like drill a hole somewhere in the center console and run the cable up.
And here's a guide for actually removing the stereo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GIyQGdXUxS4
Yeah, do that xD And please, if you find yourself putting your voice through noise removal plugins, upgrade your equipment. Is far better in the long run as you'll save time and will get BETTER results. Noise removal is rarely a good option. You can:
-Isolate your recording station better from outside noise (thus reducing the need for noise gates)
-Get better cables (gold plated)
-Get those magnetic noise shields (https://www.amazon.com/VSKEY-Anti-Interference-Telephones-Equipment-Appliances/dp/B078XKHLKG)
-Get better gear (mic and/or interface)
-Get a better/separate power source for your audio things. (I still don't know what gear you're using)
-Compress, and limit. Compress, and limit. Compress, and limit.
https://www.amazon.ca/Metra-70-8901-Wiring-Harness-Subaru/dp/B0002BEQL6
This is the one you want, I think. You can always look at the back of your factory deck to confirm.
I got 2m extension cables (usb3 and hdmi) and taped the cable onto my desk so if it gets pulled it won't break anything. You can try split wire loom tubing to protect your cable https://www.amazon.com/Burnstine-T-500-PB-COIL-Black-Split/dp/B0039YGZDK/ expecially as the headsets cables aren't replacable. I also try stay concious of when I turn around and to avoid stepping on the cable.
I think that's big enough for nights and unsupervised time. We have something like this that Novy used as a run when he was little. We got a second one and connected them together and that's what he uses when we're gone during the day now. He still goes up to his cage (2ftx5ft?) at night. When we're there he has roam of a few rooms and occasionally the upstairs.
We use cable wrap like this to cover ground cords. He's chewed on them a few times but there's no damage. As long as they're against the wall they'll be fine. For my computer desk I screwed a postal mail tube underneath it and split if length wise to stick the power strip in so it's up out of the way; as a bonus it looks better too!
For the bookshelf, we use gating that looks like the stuff from the pen I linked to above for temporary 'keep bun out' areas like that (in my case the entertainment center).
[Edit: Updated the cable wrap link, used the wrong one initially!]
Cibie 082440 Light Unit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008DQV88Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_IuQkxbCJSHRC0
You'll need two plus bulbs. Don't need any wiring harnesses or anything.
Kicker CS speaker package - Two pairs of Kicker CS Series 3.5" Coaxial speakers 40CS354 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016P5ZE0E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_KvQkxb28GWZ7P
These are the headrest speakers. Sound great, literally plug and play, fit in nicely as long as you remove the box the original speakers went in. Nice and loud and clear sound.
Get an amplifier wiring kit it comes with fuse and terminals. It would be great if the inverter had a remote wire input like the amps (that would turn it on/off with the accessory) but i don't know any that has it, i always have to modify them.
I'm using this split wire loom: https://www.amazon.com/Burnstine-T-500-PB-COIL-Black-Split/dp/B0039YGZDK/
Here's a photo of how it looks on my vive:
http://i.imgur.com/ub3VYwD.jpg
I bought 100' because it was only $5 more than the 20' lengths I saw and I've got some friends that will be ordering Vives soon that could use some as well.
I would put two rows of pin headers (of 6 pins each) on a PCB, and then solder a wire along each of them. It is ugly but it is simply the quickest, cheapest and easiest way to do it.
If you want to be fancy you can use 2.35mm screw terminals, but they cost quite a bit more than the pin headers or the 5mm screw terminals.
The actual name of this part is a "bus bar". There is a million different kinds made, in all sizes from tiny to huge. But they cost money and take time to order, so I don't bother with them unless a project MUST look 100% perfect. https://www.amazon.com/Pair-Terminal-Distribution-BUSBARS-Terminals/dp/B07C4W7YKG/ref=asc_df_B07C4W7YKG/?
Something that looks like a bus bar but isn't is called "terminal blocks", where each pair of screw terminals is not connected to the others. You can run a piece of wire lengthwise to connect them however. https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/wire-connectors/12-position-barrier-terminal-block-14-22-awg/3126/
There is also a PCB version called "strip board", that has rows of holes connected by a copper trace: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stripboard ...The usual way you use these is you build your circuit on them and you physically cut the traces where you don't want the power/signal to run.
The Adafruit Proto Boards are a small single version of a PCB style called "bus board", that has connected strips in various lengths and orientations: https://www.jameco.com/z/SB404-Busboard-Prototype-Systems-Solderable-Prototyping-Board-SB404_2191402.html?
This fan:
Alagoo 12V 6''Car Cooling Fan Automobile Vehicle Clip Fan Powerful Quiet Ventilation Electric Car Fans with Adjustable Clip & Cigarette Lighter Plug for Car/Vehicle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078S9Z6GF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_P3cDDbB5D75KS
Amazon would probably be my best bet.
I've always used banana plugs to plug the speaker wire into the speakers.
Would this item work?
https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Binding-Amplifier-Speaker-Terminal/dp/B076J6RTGX/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1524335064&sr=8-4&keywords=binding%2Bposts
Something like this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019Z3RCG2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1491491803&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=4+gauge+amp+kit+ofc
You don't need super expensive high-end gear if you're on a budget but I'd still stay away from BOSS/MTX. For your budget ($200-$250) you just won't be able to get a full 2x12" system worth having. You gotta ask yourself what you really want out of your system. Do you really want to be totally rocking the block? If so save up for a bit and go big. If you want something smaller that fits your budget, this is the setup I bought for myself recently:
Amp
Sub
Wiring kit
It's a 5-channel amp so I'm powering my 4 speakers + the sub, which I get the inputs from my mid-end kenwood headunit I received as a gift. I'm not sure what the max volume # is on it, but at "30" it's painfully loud and the bass is enough to shake the shit out of all my mirrors and I can only handle it in small doses. From the outside you can hear everything rattling despite sound deadening efforts on doors/trunk/license plate. I bought a pre-fab box but I ditched it and designed and built my own in an afternoon.
I'm not necessarily trying to talk you out of your plans, but sometimes it's better to get smaller components that are higher quality than a huge 2x12 system with shit quality. I just wanted a "little bit" of bass and got way more than I bargained for with 1x10. I have a friend with a similar 2x12 setup but with kicker 12" subs and he likes the way mine sounds a lot better. Just my $0.02 let me know what you think. If designing a custom box is too intimidating people on this subreddit can design them for you, or you can do like I did and you're tech savvy you can figure it out with calculators/software in a couple hours with no experience.
For the sub package
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_117791_JBL-Series-II-550-Watt-RMS-Dual-12-Bass-Package-S21224-GTX500.html
For the box:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_72853_Belva-BBX212BK-BLACK.html
Rear speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000P0NJOO/ref=ya_st_dp_summary
Front speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004VSTYI6/ref=ya_st_dp_summary
Wiring kit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017HNIJBY/ref=ya_st_dp_summary
Amp for the speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BF6HYAW/ref=ya_st_dp_summary
you might want to open up the mtrack2 and see if there's a short against the enclosure or ground disconnect.
Some people will suggest a cheater plug to defeat ground loop noise, but IMO thats a bad idea because they are dangerous.
First make sure there's nothing near the Mtrack that can generate noise (where's your cellphone?)
Next try changing the power socket or even the power cord (I dont know if the mtrack2 has a detachable cord)
if you keep getting noise, maybe it's time to move on from the mtrack2. Or if you can't, consider getting one of these, although in general it's always a bad idea to throw good money after bad.
I just ordered some Split Loom Cord Tubing. The interwebs say it's pretty good at stopping dangerous chewing by pets. I think I may just have to cover my keyboard area with a blanket before I leave the desk.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Hi, thanks for the suggestions. Actually, by shopping for din rails i got recommended a "bus bar" which seems to be what I need. See
https://www.amazon.com/Pair-Terminal-Distribution-BUSBARS-Terminals/dp/B07C4W7YKG/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=busbar&qid=1573749715&sr=8-4
Thanks for your help.
I bought this fan for the llv
https://www.amazon.com/Alagoo-Automobile-Ventilation-Adjustable-Cigarette/dp/B078S9Z6GF/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=cigarette+fan&qid=1563331455&s=gateway&sprefix=cigarette+fan&sr=8-3
Surprisingly it works pretty well, considering there's no a/c but it definitely helps. Best $26 I've spent for this job
only the RCA inputs inputs in my G35x Sedan from 2007. So I use this combo:
​
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RH29CJO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
https://smile.amazon.com/SoundBot-Isolator-Eliminator-Bluetooth-Receiver/dp/B071W65PPC/ref=ya_od_pd_dx_mr_1/140-0226181-9233445?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B071W65PPC&pd_rd_r=b3dc9685-b372-47b6-ac4f-9cab6eb0cb8b&pd_rd_w=9sXj9&pd_rd_wg=j2xAt&psc=1&refRID=BN0W932BC8M70YNAT492
​
and
​
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XC5KWJN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
No steering wheel controls so all control comes from the phone. But it works well and sounds good.
Did you pick up a wiring harness adapter to splice into the Pioneer harness? The colors should just be a straight up match.
Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-8901-93-Impreza-Vehicle/dp/B0002BEQL6/
The cables that came with my psu (Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 650) had decently flexible cables. When I was bending the 24 pin, I was firm but not forceful. I didn't feel like it would damage the cable at all when I got it into place. That said, I did order a right angle adapter to hide the cable a bit more. Here's the adapter I ordered:
Cooler Master CMA-CEMB01XXBK1-GL 24 Pin 90 Degree Adapter (with Build-in Capacitor) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HZ6B6R1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HRvvDbMN58DCZ
This brand is what I always use: BNTECHGO 10/12/14/16/18 Gauge Silicone Wire 600V 30 feet(3ft Black and 3ft Red: 10 AWG,12 AWG,14 AWG,16 AWG and 18 AWG) Flexible High Temperature Resistant Electric Wire Strands of Tinned Copper Wire https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBE9C91/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_t6kuDbHTNFE3H
I would consider installing the equipment yourself. it will save you some money and it is not all that hard to do. That would free up money to get better equipment. As mentioned above 6.5" would be a better option. i would also only do the front speakers. keep the rear stock speakers as fill. Most all of your sound should be coming from the front to maintain good staging and imaging.
Also consider most aftermarket speakers are designed around the fact that they will be amplified (look at power rating). So sound will greatly improve with an amplifier. So i would consider buying a small amplifier for the front speakers as well.
I suggest you listen to the speakers before you buy as sets sound vastly different depending on material used to make them. some are more laid back others are more harsh sounding. If you are stuck on infiniti then i would consider the Kappa series. they are a bit more pricey but sound much better.
This is a nice set for the price:
https://www.amazon.com/Image-Dynamics-ID65CS-Component-Speakers/dp/B01I0QI0RU/ref=sr_1_4?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1478183682&sr=1-4&keywords=Image+dynamics
http://www.woofersetc.com/c-172-speakers/c-10-compon-speakers/c-40-65/p-11153-rip-165s-auditor-65-60w-rms-2-way-component-speaker-system.html
small amp:
http://www.woofersetc.com/c-3-amplifiers/c-28-two-channel/zapco-st-2b-2-channel-full-range-class-a-b-amplifier.html
install kit ( OFC is best but on a small amp and budget set up this would be okay)
https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Complete-Amplifier-Installation-Wiring/dp/B017HNIJBY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1478184243&sr=1-1&keywords=amp+install+kit&refinements=p_89%3AKnuKonceptz
dash kit and radio harness:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120955812/Metra-95-5812-Dash-Kit.html?tp=3121
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120705520/Metra-70-5520-Receiver-Wiring-Harness.html?tp=2977
Total around $519 and an afternoon to install.
I am really sorry about bothering you this much, but I was going to order my 18awg wires and a lot of them say they are rated for under 300v. Would that be an issue?
I did see this wire set that is rated up to 600v would that be safe: https://www.amazon.com/BNTECHGO-Gauge-Silicone-Wire-Black/dp/B01NBE9C91/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499625576&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=18awg+wire&psc=1
I looked into the HLG-320H-C2100 driver more. I think I am going to go with the A version with the dimmer screw. It seems like it would be easier and safer then hooking up the dimmer dial on a B version. Would you recommend getting a light meter or somekind of way of checking to see if I am giving the plants enough light at every stage?
Thank you.
According to the Wikipedia AWG wire size chart AWG 18 is good for 10 amps. The amazon ad says that it is 8 amp cable. It could be very small wire but my guess, with no actual information, is that it's probably AWG 16 or bigger.
If your fridge is within 6 feet of a power source you could just cut off the cigarette lighter plug and hard wire it. That eliminates the cigarette lighter plug bad contact issue. That bad contact is usually the main problem, not the wire size.
Before you cut off the cigarette lighter plug use a multimeter and determine the 12 volt polarity at the fridge end of the cable. After you hard wire it verify the polarity before you plug it in to the fridge.
To do the hard wire connection you need crimp terminals. You can probably get a kit with fewer than 540 parts for less money.
https://www.amazon.com/Glarks-Disconnect-Electrical-Solderless-Connectors/dp/B01E4RAVI0?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B01E4RAVI0
For AWG 10 and 12 you need yellow. Blue and red are smaller.
I use a tool like this cheap one:
https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-GS-67K-Terminal-Stripping/dp/B0000BYC2F/
In your fuse box each circuit needs to be fused to protect the wire. For example, if you have an AWG 18 wire to some LED lamps the fuse must be less than 10 amps. If the wire chafes on a sharp edge you want the fuse to blow to keep the wire from getting too hot and starting a fire. If you make a fridge cable with some AWG 16 wire and the majority AWG 10, good for 30 amps, you want a fuse appropriate for the smallest wire in the circuit. AWG 16 is good for 15 amps. AWG 12 is good for 20 amps. The wire, of course, must be big enough to carry the load current.
If you wire it direct to the battery you still might want a fuse. If it is ok for the fridge wire to burn your van then that's your choice. You really only need a fuse to protect wires that you don't want starting fires. GM and Ford run big fat wires from the battery to the starter motor with no fuse. Those wires are usually not bundled in a harness with other wires. The main issue is that 500 amp fuses and fuse holders are expensive. Besides, GM and Ford only own the van until they sell it. What are the odds?
For searching on the internet I use www.duckduckgo.com. If you use that and search for "you tube crimp terminals" you will find videos showing how to crimp wire terminals.
is there a mic/line option on your interface? maybe it's set to the wrong one... how much input gain do you have dialed on the interface? perhaps it's up too high. those are my thoughts.. i also use a cheap noise isolator from amazon, and it's working perfect over here.
Supercaps are on the market, but fairly expensive. They are voltage sensitive, and need charge balance control. 16V kit sample
after searching Google, it seems it's a widespread problem.. perhaps something like this noise filter can help
SoundBot SB363 3.5mm Ground Loop Noise Isolator Adapter Remover[Buzzing Eliminator Hissing Filter] Speaker/Car Audio Stereo System/Bluetooth Adapter Receiver/Car Kit/Home Audio w/Built-in AUX Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071W65PPC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_T0wZDbP61YN1S
Hardware:
Cooler Master 90 degree MB 24 adapter
EVGA RTX Link
Heat shrink / cable sleeve
Wanted to share this as I literally just found out about it. I struggled with making my MB adapter “neat” but then found the CM 90 adapter and it’s so good. I cleared about 3 inches of cable from inside my case. If you must you are able to link 2 of these together and literally move the power cable almost to the back of the case. I purchased two but because I fit a 280 cooler where it wasn’t supposed to go prevents me from fitting. [Amazon Link](Cooler Master CMA-CEMB01XXBK1-GL... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HZ6B6R1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)
EVGA link - moves the cables from in front and away from the main glass of the case and shifts the pins to the right side of the card. [Link](EVGA PowerLink, Support All... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQ1YEYH?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)
The heat shrink / custom sleeve is cool and I did it at the same time. [heatshrink](100ft - 1 inch Flexo PET... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074GPHW6B?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)
Hope this helps you like it helped me!
It could be home power related, it could be the cords for your PC, or headset. Some radio signals will perpetrate whatever is unshielded or frayed.
Try these: https://www.amazon.com/20Pcs-Clip-Ferrite-Suppressor-Diameter/dp/B016XE2BS0
I am thinking something like this may help:
https://www.amazon.com/Holland-MPOE-TM-Filter-Coaxial-Networking/dp/B01KDG41QE/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522957475&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=rf+noise+filter+coax+75+ohm
https://www.amazon.com/AUCH-20Pcs-Ferrite-Suppressor-Diameter/dp/B016XE2BS0/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&tag=c24m-20
That being said an EE with a scope would be better at determining what you need in your case as I suspect you are fighting against massive electrical interference.