Best cat 5 ethernet cables according to redditors
We found 43 Reddit comments discussing the best cat 5 ethernet cables. We ranked the 19 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 43 Reddit comments discussing the best cat 5 ethernet cables. We ranked the 19 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Bad termination "works", but when it decides to get funky it can give you all sorts of troubleshooting headaches. Much better to do it right the first time.
The holes in the back of the wall box are to mount modules like a [small patch panel] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000U3DXM4/ref=pd_aw_sim_60_of_16?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3KD636KR3SCX8X0YTGG6) . Terminate in a small patch panel and get some pre-made patch cables.
A USB to RJ45 cable will probably work fine.
I've never used one, and I don't see any such cables with long histories of positive reviews & glowing feedback.
But I have used USB to DB9 serial adapters, combined with traditional DB9 to RJ45 Cisco Console Cables for years, with excellent result.
USB to DB9
DB9 to RJ45 Console Cable
Yeah, no. You're not being paid enough for that. Use one of these special couplers (no loss of speed; if you screw up, you can redo the coupling for as much extra slack in the cable as you have; tool-less, save a screwdriver and something to cut the outer sheath of the Cat cabling). On sale at Amazon as well, but it might be a better idea to just order up a few dozen (pricing drops) from the original place, and keep them in a bag on a rack somewhere.
I have used them, and there is no loss of speed. Gig-E is where I am currently sitting.
Well in that case I suggest a bigger roll, likely 1000ft or more. Shouldn't be more than like 40 or 50$. But if you're running them through the walls, you're right, cat6 would be the smarter move. This is almost exactly the kit I bought but it comes with a neat carrying case and those blue ethernet connector covers. You should absolutely get and use a cable tester like the one in this kit, if you're running wires through your wall the last thing you want to do is run them and then find out it was wired incorrectly or doesn't work for some other reason. Also always give yourself at least a foot more than you think you'll need so that if you mess up stripping the wires or something you have a couple more tries. But it takes surprisingly little practice to get good at.
I wish you good luck, mate. I also recommend running a good HDMI, USB and power extension cord for a Vive (also works with Oculus) if you ever plan on using that room for VR. Since you're already in the walls, it would be a smart time to do it. Only real advice there is to put a nice sleeve over the power wire because it's surprisingly small in diameter. Quick edit: Here's an outlet cover plate you could use for VR wires.
Cat 5e and Cat 6 are pretty much the same thing for residential use. Cat 6a just has a higher bandwidth to make sure you can do faster speeds at length (like 3x what you are looking to span).
The cables are cheap, so it doesn't really matter. I would go with a Cat 6 100ft cable for like $7and save the money.
Cable with messenger: https://www.amazon.com/Vertical-Cable-Shielded-Messenger-Ethernet/dp/B007HCAYFA
Drop Clamps: http://alliedboltinc.com/Aerial-Drop-Hardware/RPX-Drop-Clamp~164/RPX-DROP-CLAMP~10085
Anchor: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-5-16-in-x-6-in-Zinc-Plated-Lag-Thread-Screw-Eye-806936/204273503
Skip the drop clamp if you're feeling cheap.
https://www.amazon.com/Network-Everywhere-Cable-Ethernet-NC100U-WM/dp/B000UH4I4M Found it on amazon. It was first on amazon in 2007 and that is where i got the title from.
So that's actually called a Leviton Media Enclosure, or a very similar knockoff. Looks like someone didn't fully know what they were doing, or was planning on using biscuit jacks, either way they left too much unsheathed.
As for your concern about the patch panel, try this. It's designed for those.
Also, try this for that splitter job going on.
Edit: Didn't even realize these existed.
Edit: I REALLYYYY wanted to make a comment about everyone calling these contractors lazy, but wasn't sure leviton made blank patch panels for these enclosures, they do. This could have been intended for one of these to go in. I know I'd never heard of them until a Texas Roadhouse had me use one during the rack refresh, now I recommend them to everyone, they make my life so much easier, and I can install pass through cat5's for those jerk wads that run pre-cuts (So i don't have to rerun) as well as coax keystones and more.
That's a structured media enclosure. You should probably find someone who knows low-voltage to give you a hand. There are a million accessories designed specifically to fit in shallow boxes like that. Some thoughts:
Even if they aren't solid-core, you should put new ends on them. Two of them look sketchy. Make sure you get ends meant for solid- or stranded-core.
TL;DR: There are small network devices meant specifically to mount inside a shallow structured enclosure like that. Get the right equipment, clean up the cables with some zip ties, and find a door.
If you want to do this for fun, then fine. If you actually want a print server and have it be power efficient, spend $20 on one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Network-Print-Server-Ethernet-Cable/dp/B004VRGRI2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1371837406&sr=8-2&keywords=print+server
It looks like they just spliced everything together instead of using a phone patch panel. Just pull those cables apart and terminate each one to an Ethernet patch panel or a surface mount box since you have just a few cables. Then get a keystone wall jack for each room those cables go to. Make sure that you wire both ends in the same color sequence. The "B" color sequence is what people commonly use.
You may want to get a cable tester to make sure that you've got things connected properly.
I have seen this used successfully...and it seems to have good reviews:
https://www.amazon.com/GF2120-TOOL-LESS-ETHERNET-COUPLER-SPLICER/dp/B01MRT0X8Z
Instructions:
https://i.imgur.com/uVNQTe5.jpg
Isn't this what Ubnt recommends?
https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Serial-Ethernet-Rollover-Console/dp/B00979DMSM/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1492626226&sr=1-6&keywords=db9+rj45
Whats wrong with this? http://www.amazon.com/100-Feet-CAT5e-Internet-Ethernet/dp/B001QWVS1Q
Something like this. You may need two. It鈥檒l allow you to mount it in your panel, then you can run patch cables to wherever your router/modem will be.
Edit: the one you linked can also work, haven鈥檛 personally used that type in a panel.
Buy a cheap ass-router and one of these and use it to stream porn on you're phone.
I have old server with old esxi version (I think 5 or older) and the same modem was plugged into that server directly without the need of using extra converter etc .. it was done by previous guy who handle the setup last time and uncontactable so we can't ask him how he did that .. so conclusion I must buy the box am I right? Can I confirm that converter, one end is rs232 serial (male/female) then the other end is rj45 port (not cable)..
Bcos this aftnoon I tried to find but mostly seller only sells this kind of cable
https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Serial-Ethernet-Rollover-Console/dp/B00979DMSM
Which I currently have it also and all this time I use it to console Cisco switch etc
Is it the same thing?
Do u have any contact no (WhatsApp etc) that I can reach you to discuss further cos I need this modem to be detected thank you
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPP-845-Unbalanced-Patch-Cables/dp/B000068NXH
That doesn't look like any splitter I've ever seen and I looked it up, has a lot of reviews saying it never worked for them. https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Splitter-Adapter-Connector-RJ45cable/dp/B078WL7SFS
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Since everything was working fine before you added the splitter I would guess it's faulty. I'd suggesting getting an ethernet switch and not a splitter. A switch basically does the same thing as a splitter but better. Considering they are also cheap, you can get a 6 port one for about $10 that is what I would get. You plug your incoming signal into any of the ports and the outgoing to any of the other ports and the switch handles the multiple signals.
You're going to need speaker wire over all else. A pair of electrical pliers come in very handy if you're going to do more electrical work...if not then just a stripper would do you fine. I would go for the pliers but that's just me.
If you're hooking in a computer/iPod you'll need a 3.5mm to RCA cable. If you're doing a DVD/Blu-Ray or Roku you'll need some HDMI cables. If you're going from the TV/Cable box you'll probably need an optical cable. If you want to get the AVR on the network and you have a wired port available you'll need an ethernet cable. If you can I would recommend it so you can get the updates online and use the app to control the AVR.
25ft is long enough to reach just about any corner of the room. This is more than adequate (http://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Cable-CAT5e-25-White/dp/B000E8BGCE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372749840&sr=8-1&keywords=25ft+ethernet+cable). You'll need a Cat 5e at bare minimum to get the full internet speed.
Cat 5e = max of 1Gbps
Cat 6 = 10Gbps+ max (only on 10GE ethernet ports ....aka not your laptop/desktop)
Tl;Dr Get a cat 5e chord over the cat 6, unless the cat 6 is cheaper.
Something like this, provided that only jacks on your unit are active. Grab their router and plug it in, make sure that they are on different channels to prevent interference.
If the router is capable of a 'guest' network, it will allow you to effectively have two separate wireless networks, though I am unsure of the security.
If you're running a 100Mb/s network, you can actually run two devices at full speed over one cat5(+) cable, as the network connection only uses 4 wires, but the cable contains 8. (You can't do this with gigabit ethernet, it uses all 8 wires)
I found this on Amazon, there are bound to be other places you can get similar. Stick one in your room, and one at your router (you need two connections to the router with this method). Ignore the negative reviews, they are from people who can't follow the simple instructions in my previous sentence.
All the benefits of running 2 separate cables to your room, without the hassle of actually running 2 cables.
amazon.com
https://www.amazon.com/Cables4PC-Patch-Ethernet-Network-100FTCAT5WH/dp/B00SNP2HKK/
https://www.amazon.com/WHITE-100FT-CAT5e-ETHERNET-NETWORK/dp/B002HJXGFS
https://www.amazon.com/Cat5e-100FT-Networking-Ethernet-Router/dp/B01BMZ1O8I/
This was the second listing on amazon. It's crazy expensive for a 3ft cable. It doesn't matter though, unless you also have a crazy 10 gigabit switch and 10 gigabit NIC.
Something like this will work:
https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-TU-S9-USB-Serial-Converter/dp/B0007T27H8?th=1
https://www.amazon.com/HDE-9-Pin-Serial-Ethernet-Console/dp/B00979DMSM/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1478907245&sr=1-2&keywords=serial+to+ethernet
Like others have said, it is pretty hard to brick an EdgeRouter. The ERL has a serial console port on the front where you can access the command line to fix issues and see the boot sequence. You just need one of these.
Replace that board with one like this: http://smile.amazon.com/Leviton-47605-C5B-Category-Module-Bracket/dp/B000U3DXM4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454094263&sr=8-1&keywords=leviton+cat5
Then connect each of those ports to a switch and you'll be good to go!
>APC AP7753
APC RJ-12 serial cable.
> Dell Powerconnect 6224
That needs a null modem. I use this straight-through serial cable plus these slim null modem adapters with a random eBay USB serial adapter with a male plug.
> Hp 2810 (4 switches varying in port count) Fujitsu XG2600 (26port SFP+ switch)
Most things I've bought that have RJ-45 serial ports work with the standard "blue Cisco cable". Some need a null modem adapter and some don't.
You could use one of these but you'll lose gigabit speeds, and drop down to 100Mbps max. You need one on both ends.
Alternatively, depending on how your ISP's equipment is set up, you could connect a managed switch and configure VLANs. This won't work if your ISP's equipment is set up to have only untagged ports.
Just found this, seems to fit over the plastic box?
http://www.electricalcounter.co.uk/products/Switches+%26+Sockets/Decorative+Back+Boxes/Steel+Back+Boxes/Brushed+Steel+Single+Surface+Socket+Back+Box+Pattress+1+Gang+35mm/937879482
They also sell a faceplate on the same site:
http://www.electricalcounter.co.uk/products/Switches+&+Sockets/Nexus+Metal/Nexus+Metal+Brushed+Steel/Metal+Brushed+Stainless+Steel+1+Gang+(1G)+RJ45+Data+Outlet/2279986445
Not 100% sure if they're exactly what you need size/materials wise, but they're UK based at least
Edit:
Other options here:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Mercury-Flush-Faceplate-Network-Cables/dp/B007JISG2A
http://www.run-it-direct.co.uk/flushmetalbackbox.html
Might wanna watch out for colour matching if you go for those 2 though
One person can plug-in and you could bridge the connection over wireless I believe. Only downside is that you would need both computers to be there, but you wouldnt have to buy anything assuming both laptops have built-in wireless
Or just one of these guys
How does this cable look? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005EZ0HH2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=217ILZWPO3Y3H&coliid=I2M90SF0DTTH0C
Price and being solid core + uv shielded seems good enough for me. Anything you have used that is cheaper/better?
You have a few options. You can run the 50 foot ethernet cable, which I highly recommend, and they are very cheap on amazon.
If that REALLY isnt an option, then buy a very nice PCI wireless card, which I dont recommend at all, your performance will still suffer. You can however get them on amazon aswell.
Guess someone didn't get the memo
Go grab a small patch panel and patch those data runs in properly. Crimping RJs directly only solid copper isn't a bed practice and can give you some headaches down the road.
Like this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000U3DXM4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
The way phone works is that one line in can feed all the other connected lines. Ethernet doesn't work that way. Ethernet is a point to point connection; so there must be one device on each end of the plug.
You would need purchase something like this to put inside the communication box. You would reterminate all the Cat5e wires that are inside the communication box into the patch panel. Then you'd need to check the wall outlets to make sure they're wired the same way. Then you could put a switch or whatever inside the communication box to use them as ethernet ports.
In theory, something like this should work:
http://amzn.com/B004VRGRI2
Rj45 Splitter
You will only get half the speed of the connected port.
Something like this, https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-37133-Splitter-Combiner/dp/B000Q5UMEI