(Part 2) Best distribution wall plates & connectors according to redditors

https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice-Dual-Plate-Brush-Bristles/dp/B00HYH26ZO?th=1

Allows for cables to enter / exit walls with a cleaner look - so you don't have to drill a hole essentially.

How would "critters" get into the wall in the first place is more the issue you should be concerned about lol. The issue here should be there are "critters" in the house in the first place that can get into/out of your wall cavities.

In regards to drafts interior walls should not have any cold air in there. Exterior walls should be fitting with insulation so there should be no appreciable drafting. Most of the better kits to hide the wires behind the wall come with draft blockers for the holes as well.

I've never had any draft issues at all. TV is installed on an interior wall with this kit:

http://www.amazon.com/Legrand-HT2102WHV1-Flat-Panel-Connection/dp/B003JUBMCI/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1453132673&sr=8-10&keywords=in+wall+tv+wiring

consider one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003JUBMCI?psc=1

Installed Legrand - ONQ / HT2102WHV1 Flat-Panel in-Wall Cable Management Connection Kit for Flat-Panel TV Installation https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003JUBMCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fcT2CbCQ52FFT

With an USB outlet https://www.lowes.com/pd/Eaton-White-15-Amp-Decorator-Outlet-USB-Residential/50029064

The case is Anti-Theft Tablet Security Case Holder - Metal Heavy Duty Vesa Wall Mount Tablet Kiosk, Mounts on Surface, Landscape/Portrait Mounting, Designed for iPad 2, 3, 4, Air, Air 2 Tablets - Pyle PSPADLKW06 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BH8TW7K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ScT2CbDE70519.

Overall happy with everything. The case isn't the best cosmetically, but functionality is good.

You might want to post to /r/cableadvice for more help.

Brocade Best Practices Guide: Cabling the Data Center

You haven't given much detail on what you're trying to accomplish. You seem to be doing framing, high voltage, and data runs for a data center. Here's some items that might be best suited for you:

1. Don't run power parallel with Ethernet. Additionally, when crossing power runs, do so at as close to a 90° angle as possible. If you don't follow this, the EMI will cause random packets to not reach their destination. A nice way to handle this is through the use of overhead cable pathways. Those will be very helpful in connecting to each rack's horizontal and vertical pathways. Also, it allows you to keep power down bottom and data up top (so they never connect).
   
   
2. I'm concerned that the high voltage is not running through some form of conduit. It's likely either you live in a place with very lax codes or an Electrician wasn't brought in.
   
   
3. It's great that the ends are labeled. Terminate the Ethernet cables at patch panels; not with RJ45 ends.
   
   
4. Are you using plenum cables or have otherwise reached the fire-safety codes?
   
   If you give more detail on where these runs start and end, as well as what the area is going to be used for, we can help with different suggestions.
   
   Edit: I also like /u/skifdank's suggestion of J-Hooks as a replacement for the cable pathways, if you insist on using the hot aisles, for some reason.

This is the one I used.

Monoprice Keystone Jack Panel, 48 Ports https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008F0YBXO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_l6BUCb139D2R8

I was going to suggest he buy one of these and these but further down he said it's a cement wall so I would suggest some of these instead. Takes a little more time than just using Velcro ties but looks much better when finished IMO.

Edit: Also, don't EVER buy stuff from Amazon that is originally from Monoprice. $18.47 for something that Monoprice charges $8.58 for? Fuck off.

Several ways to do it, maybe someone has a better option but something like this behind the tv

http://www.amazon.com/DataComm-45-0021-WH-Recessed-Voltage-Cable/dp/B001C4EAL8


And at the cabinet location

http://www.amazon.com/Shaxon-BM303WP6-B-Single-White-Keystone/dp/B006IKHAZY/

http://www.amazon.com/Keystone-Coupler-Snap--Wallplate-White/dp/B0039L3P86

http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-3796-Cat5E-Keystone/dp/B00006LUL7

Also going to need the mounting brackets

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HYHEBT8/

Let us know what you think

Do you have a link for that cable, the picture doesn’t tell enough of the story.

I wouldn’t terminate them with rj45s, I’d opt for these, with boxes and wall plates.

The first two look fine but you don't want an ethernet patch cable, you want a box of cable like - https://www.amazon.com/NavePoint-Ethernet-550MHz-Unshielded-Twisted/dp/B072FR26V6. This way you can pull out at much or as little cable as you need, and it's solid wire (vs. patch cables which use stranded wiring) which is better suited for fishing through spaces and terminating the ends.

If you've never done it before, with a bag of ends and some Youtube videos you should be able to get decent results after a few attempts.

Depending on where the cable is going, sometimes it's cleaner to have it terminate to a wall drop, in which case you'd use a keystone jack and a face plate

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Cat6-Keystone-Jack-Termination/dp/B07KM75W67/

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-10-Pack-Profile-Keystone/dp/B074HHDJWT/

If you can't get the cable through a wall, you may do a keystone in a surface mount box (https://www.amazon.com/Listed-Cable-Matters-Keystone-Surface/dp/B01J6JP6HC). Then use a regular patch cable to connect the AP the surface mount.

Lots of ways to get it done, just depends on your layout/desired results.

Most ethernet networks have range of 100m without requiring a repeater or switch. That's a LONG WAY and almost certainly further than the location of your hub from your room.

Here is a really long ethernet cable for $30. I'd recommend actually measuring the distance and planning it with your parents.

In my house I ran cables from the attic down into the walls by the hub and in each room. You can either have the cables stick right out of the wall, or if you want to be nicer about it, cut open the cable and wire them into a wall plate, patching them into your PC with a short cable. Here is a howto video. In the video he has a cable TV jack right next to it, and if you have something like that you don't even need to cut a new hole in the wall; you can just use a dual plate like this one.

I got this and it works quite well - https://www.amazon.com/elago-Wall-Plate-Hello-Black/dp/B07CYRS8KF

If you want to hide some of those cords, you could do one of these behind the TV, and another one at the base of your stand. But i'm no expert.

brush plate

>The basic question I really have is what do I do to effective get the cables to the server rack

Run them directly to the rack, leave a "working loop" of extra cable on them so that you have room to work on them or repunch them.

>once at the rack is there special type of setup I should do?

run everything to a patch panel. I prefer a keystone based system because it supports way more than just ethernet. A 48 port keystone patch panel fits in a 2U space, then you can fill it with everything you will need to keep flex and damage to a minimum from the cables running in. This includes HDMI keystones, RG6 keystones, USB3 keystones, and finally cat6a keystones.

Once you have everything run to the rack, you just need short patch cables for everything then, instead of trying to have to work each cable and risk breaking the ends. For ethernet, then you can get 12in or 6in patch cables for your ethernet runs to a 24 or 48 port rackmount switch. This is what my rack looked like last week, I have since added 4 more ethernet runs(from one spot). I have a shelf in there for the modem and Samknows whitebox(no, that is not my router). My PFsense router is just below the server you do see. All the runs from my house come to the rack, and it is all neatly bundled up in back of the rack, and has enough slack in the lines that I can take the patch panel out and work on it should I need to move things around or add more runs. Don't staple your runs down hard, and bundle everything together in the back with velcro cable ties so that should you need to undo anything, you can. Don't use zip ties for that, it makes it a giant PITA later.

I picked up something like this at Home Depot: https://www.amazon.com/Datacomm-Electronics-45-0008-WH-Recessed-Voltage/dp/B00390IT7O

Looks like an outlet cover, but you can feed a variety of wiring through it and makes it look clean :)

Electric code usually only deals with line voltage, you can do pretty much anything with DC5V as that falls into "low voltage" power. I don't have a great idea off the top of my head for connecting the 120v to the charger in some approved way. Maybe a duplex recep in the wall with the charger physically plugged into it? Alternately, the recessed box with a USB power recep and the cable run back into the wall idea should be to code as all the 120V parts are unmodified.

For running the wire cleanly into or out of the wall, check out cable bushings.

If you are looking for centralized DC power delivery, PoE is probably the most standard approach to that, where a central switch delivers power to each cable run and you can use something like this at the plate to power a USB device.

Why not chop them at the wall (well a couple feet outside the wall) and do it right with one of these: https://www.amazon.com/TNP-Ethernet-Network-Cat6-Plate/dp/B019XSN2DQ/ref=pd_sim_23_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B019XSN2DQ&pd_rd_r=E9Q8GK9C31JT1MFW0JEV&pd_rd_w=qkE01&pd_rd_wg=tyYyt&psc=1&refRID=E9Q8GK9C31JT1MFW0JEV

As /u/Grandsinge said - put RJ45 jacks in instead - either keystone jacks and wall-plates (with mounting brackets) if you can actually run it in the wall and you want a nice, professional look (this is what I did - a pain to do, but it looks great; plus I ran coax at the same time). Otherwise just go with surface-mount boxes.

​

In the basement, or wherever your switch is going to be - you can put more of the same (keystone jacks or surface-mount boxes), but if you are going to have more than 4 or so, maybe worth just doing a patch panel to keep things neat & tidy.

​

Edit - products linked are for example - not necessarily products I specifically recommend or endorse.

cat5 is cat5, if you work in tech it's the exact same termination as a regular network. J hooks just screw into support beams, or roof, you hang cable on them. It's seriously easy, The only thing you'll have to remember is to either purchase a POE switch, to provide power to the POE camera's, or purchase POE injectors to send power down the cat5 cable

https://www.amazon.com/ICC-ICCMSJHK33-PACK-J-HOOK-16in/dp/B005EIFWKG/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1474644301&sr=8-5&keywords=j+hook

Depends on how involved you want to get. Here it's all a matter of aesthetics, and if you want it to look good, you've gotta do the work. Fortunately, I did it for the first time myself, and it looks good and is worth it.

1. Take the TV off the mount. Go into the attic and assess the area directly above the fireplace. Should be easy to find based on the chimney, but if not (and there aren't any wires or duct work above it), drill a small hole in your ceiling right in the center of the fireplace, and poke a straightened wire coat hanger into it. This will penetrate the insulation and give you a good point of reference.
   
   
2. Buy and install a combo recessed plug and cable plate. If there's not much room behind the drywall, you can get shallower versions.
   
   
3. Run electrical power (12/2 Romex is sufficient for a flat screen) and a single long HDMI cable to your box. Wiring sounds difficult, but with a fish tape and a paddle bit, it's actually not that bad. DIY Network has a writeup here. If you're unsure of local code, or don't want to mess with electricity, you could run the power cable to the box, and then have a local electrician tap into an existing line with capacity (this should be much cheaper than having them do the whole job).
   
   
4. Run the other end of the HDMI cable to wherever you want your source boxes to be. Ours are in our coat closet. Use either an A/V switching receiver or an HDMI switch to control the source. Yes, modern TV's have multiple HDMI ports on the back, but for a clean and easy installation, doing 1 cable to the TV, and then switching at the sources is a much better solution than running a new cable through the attic for each device.
   
   Good luck.

If all you’re doing is putting in a pass through for cables to exit the wall then you’d be better off using a grommeted and brushed pass through plate than just drilling a hole. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07712TG67/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ghPdBbACZAGD2

All you’d need to install it is a simple drywall saw: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005QVQH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JjPdBb2VZ0T7G

Edit: also note that permanent install of extension cords could be a code violation depending on where you live. The post isn’t super clear what you’re running and to where.

Excellent advice. The only thing I add is to use a cable wall bushing or grommet on the exterior to prevent cable damage over time. Be sure to caulk too to prevent potential insect/water damage.

Dang! I wish you posted this a week earlier. I purchased a couple from an Etsy seller over the weekend that were a little more expensive and they still haven't shipped.

For anybody trying to figure out how to wire these, I bought a couple of these to put right next to the outlet. So the wire will go through the wall and you'll only see a little bit of cable and the adapter at the outlet.

1 - They make a lot of variations of this:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Vanco-1-Gang-3-4-in-x-1-1-2-in-Hole-Hinged-Wall-Plate-for-Cable-White-120617X/205359407

https://www.amazon.com/Datacomm-Electronics-45-0008-WH-Recessed-Voltage/dp/B00390IT7O/ref=sr_1_8?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1484761144&sr=1-8

Just do a search for "data wall plate" or "Multimedia wall plate"

2 - Not sure what you are talking about. Do you mean where your ethernet terminates and the networking gear will be? They make network boxes, but if space is no objection I prefer racks.

3 - Definitely punchdown. You don't need a different punchdown for cat 5 vs 6. There are 2 primary punchdown types (110 and krone). If you get the below punch down tool, you'll be able to use either punch down panel type. 6 is a little more annoying to punch down because it has the extra insulator in it, otherwise it's all about punch types.

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1484761269&sr=1-1&keywords=punch+down+tool

Are those 6" cables? I kind of did the same thing as you by not using the keystones to the left of my patch panels, but I still needed to use a few 12" patch cables for a few of the ports on my US-16-150 switch.

Get some keystone blanks to finish up: Cable Matters (20-Pack) Blank Keystone Jack Inserts in White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AYKR63O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zPGXDbM3RZWEG

Cat 5e unless your PS4 is capable of 10Gbs-1! Its cheap and dependable and most back boxes are designed for it. The e is important but it is quite unlikely that you will find only Cat5 which is only rated up to 100Mbs-1. If you only need one then run two and leave a foot or so in the wall at each end for the extra cable, just in case. If I was you I'd run three cables and terminate two of them and keep one as a spare coiled up in the back of the back box.

I assume US and let's see what Amazon.com offers. https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Plate-ESYLink-Cable-Female/dp/B076GLSN5J/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=wall+port+ethernet+2+port&qid=1565562692&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Ahh, it looks like you lot insist on Cat6 and have huge wall plates. So I'll change my suggestion to Cat6. Make sure you run an extra cable and don't stress them too much when you are laying them, especially when pulling through a hole, it is easy to kink them and try to use brute force to fix the problem. Buy solid core cable (not stranded) which is designed to work with "keystone jacks".

You'll need this tool https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-protecting-jacket-Multi-Function-Ethernet/dp/B01FHBZJ20/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=ethernet+punch+down+tool&qid=1565563203&s=gateway&sr=8-12 to make the connections. You can practice on some off cuts of cable before going live. The hook on the tool makes it easy to pull the wires back out from the back of a jack. There are a lot of videos on the web about doing all this stuff.

You’ll probably need something, depending on the hole size and if you can get rid of that brown shit. Something like this could help: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CYRS8KF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_toAOBbME7J67P

If it covers everything you don’t want to see, I personally would seal it with a white caulk or something to make it look clean on the stone. Or just leave the gaps if it’s way too bumpy.

I was thinking something like this for a "professional" look link, I guess it just introduces more points of failure and makes it more difficult to replace in the long run? Is this what you mean by pulling wires directly through link?

Thanks for the warning on monoprice, I did a bit of browsing on AVSforum and found this link, seemed to have good bang for buck and great customer service.

Just an example, but they make these which are designed to go into walls like plug sockets do. You could adapt one for a RPI interface...

This isn't one with the right ports, it's just an example, but some have interchangable ports you can buy and swap out to get exactly what you need.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Fosmon-Plated-Built-In-Ethernet-Coaxial/dp/B00B1X2904/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397680965&sr=8-1&keywords=Wall+plate+USb+Hdmi+Ethernet

if you wanted, you could also use one of these instead of the molding. https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice%C2%AE-White-Single-Brush-Plate/dp/B00HYH26ZO/

Is the wire coming out of the wall just not long enough? If so get a keystone to terminate it at the wall, then run a cable from the wall jack to wherever it needs to go.
Buyer's Point 1 Port Cat6 Wall Plate, Female-Female White with Single Gang Low Voltage Mounting Bracket Device (1 Port) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EMKYYPK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JK6XzbA7C8DDA

Powerline Adapters work. Could also do Low Voltage Wall Plates like these Through the walls if the landlord/building owners/etc is cool with it:

https://www.amazon.com/Buyers-Point-Female-Female-Voltage-Mounting/dp/B01EMKYYPK/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1505748910&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=Ethernet+wall+plate&psc=1

Since Ethernet is low-voltage, you don't technically need a wall stud or the outlet box to put these in. Just gotta knock out a square hole in the wall, put the bracket behind it, and connect some short ethernet jumpers in between.

This is what pretty much everyone uses for TV mounts.

https://www.amazon.com/Legrand-Q-HT2102WHV1-Management-Connection/dp/B003JUBMCI

If you want to spend some money in wall wire managing would like nice!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07H9DDP1X/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Otherwise atleast a cable concealer

https://www.amazon.com/One-Cord-Channel-Cable-Concealer-Management/dp/B07D8WVJWF/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=cable+concealer&qid=1568519598&s=gateway&sprefix=cable+conceal&sr=8-5

So I'm legit about to do this for my parents and get a 65" TCL Roku TV installed above their fireplace while they're away on vacation (so they can't object). I was thinking of living with the wires and using some sort of basic cable management sleeve, but my buddy suggested I go with the wires behind the wall option. Would you say it's worth the extra $100?

Maybe these:

https://www.amazon.com/HYCC-2-3-Flexible-Desk-Grommet/dp/B01KNUY3UE

or these:
https://www.amazon.com/Midlite-SpeedPort-Universal-Through-Anchor/dp/B00I0JN4O2

I think you'll find that conduit is completely unneccessary if you're running the holes back to back, but if so take one of those grommets up to a home supply store and find some appropriate-width PVC to wedge between the two.

I've used both of those products for ceilings, furniture, and walls.

Good luck.

Have a look at these or these. I have known them as 'pass through grommets or ports".

No problem. A friend is working on almost the exact same problem. His solution seems to be this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010U5EGKE?pldnSite=1

Notice that the power supply is external. So you can put it in the wall, but you have to plug in an external power supply from another outlet. But you do have a USB for a chromecast.

This is the one I've been using and it's a monoprice but also available via Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008F0YBXO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It has enough spacing in between to accommodate most keystone designs and give 48 slots.

Something like this Echogear in-Wall TV & Soundbar Power Kit Safely Hides Cables Behind Your Wall - Includes Low Voltage Cable Managment to Conceal All TV & Soundbar Wires (HDMI, Optical, etc.) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H9DDP1X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_b4LWCb2QVJGGX

What I effectively meant was buying these items:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Keystone-Line-Coupler/dp/B00WKPK1B6/ref=pd_sim_23_92?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7KG188J5T6JDQWF4Y33E

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-20-Pack-Keystone-Inserts/dp/B01AYKR63O/ref=pd_sim_147_8?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01AYKR63O&pd_rd_r=01GFYAHVW5HDP6W9N73R&pd_rd_w=nmR9i&pd_rd_wg=TYs0U&psc=1&refRID=01GFYAHVW5HDP6W9N73R

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plate-6-Port-Keystone/dp/B00IO3HF8U/ref=pd_sim_147_13?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00IO3HF8U&pd_rd_r=01GFYAHVW5HDP6W9N73R&pd_rd_w=nmR9i&pd_rd_wg=TYs0U&psc=1&refRID=01GFYAHVW5HDP6W9N73R

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-5-Pack-Gold-Plated-Keystone/dp/B0100R444U/ref=pd_sim_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0100R444U&pd_rd_r=01GFYAHVW5HDP6W9N73R&pd_rd_w=nmR9i&pd_rd_wg=TYs0U&psc=1&refRID=01GFYAHVW5HDP6W9N73R

Thanks, this is probably the best option. Thinking about it more, my tv and av receiver have cec so 90% of normal controls I can use my tv remote anyways. Will have to test out the wireless controllers for my gaming systems and see if they go through the wall or not. I will also either need to put the center speaker in the wall or on a shelf below the tv, haven't decided on that one yet. Already have 2 of these for behind the tv and into the closet. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00390IT7O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Will have to pickup some wall faces for the speakers tho.

If you use modular jacks, the only tool needed should be a toner because most of the jacks are designed with color-coding and snap-in features these days. If the wiring is labeled you might not even need a toner. If there are labels on the wires and the receptacles are already in the wall, then you might be able to do this yourself (unless you are color blind).

I would recommend ordering the jacks off Amazon if you do need to buy them, the prices will be better than most stores.

Something like this (note this has other ports too but there is a lot of variety).
https://www.amazon.ca/Fosmon-Gold-Plated-Ethernet-Compatible-Coaxial/dp/B00B1X2904/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1538763087&sr=8-14&keywords=ethernet+jack

There are other types that offer multi-use wallplates that the jacks snap into after you clip the wiring in.

I don't have the tools anymore, or the time really to help unfortunately but if someone does offer to help I recommend you at least make sure they have experience. There isn't a huge risk to wiring these things wrong, but it can lead to some really annoying data troubles.

Newbie question:

When I buy a speaker, is the listed impedance for each speaker individually? Or the pair as a whole?

To get more specific with my situation, my dad is planning on getting this wall amp for his home office and asked me to recommend him a pair of speakers to go with it. I was thinking the Kanto Ben would be great for his use case, but I'm iffy on compatibility.

The amp is listed at 100 Watt Peak, 40 Watt RMS x 2 Ch. with a 4 Ohm minimum resistance. The Kanto Ben are listed at 30 Watt RMS (42 peak) and 4 Ohms.

Am I safe making this recommendation? And regardless, is there a better set of speakers I can suggest?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CYRS8KF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HWHlDb6ZWKYFF

Would this work? I don't know the dimensions of the Ring Pro but it worked great replacing my old doorbell.

Replace VC with these

Then you’ll need to add an amp and mix/preamp per room

I would recommend the OSD Audio ATM-7.

It's a speaker selector that allows you to play to any combination of 7 channels from 2 inputs. You would just need to supply it with some kind of amplified input (if you're dealing with digital output, you need a simple stereo amp of some kind, like this: Lepy LP-2020A).

This is my setup to supply audio to our kitchen, great room, patio, loft, master, and ensuite. To supply audio, I have an Echo Show in our kitchen connect to a bluetooth receiver, which is then connected to the stereo amp in our server room via stereo over ethernet.

For volume, we use in-wall speaker volume control knobs that control each room's speakers. In the master and ensuite, since these are more private rooms and we may want to listen to something different than the rest of the house, we have volume controls with A/B selectors. These allow us to switch between the ATM-7's input and a separate, 4 channel amplifier connected to our bedroom's echo dot.

I used these: CTA Digital PAD-HFS Heavy-Duty... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KK5CSJY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I also got white blanks to make things look prettier:

Cable Matters (20-Pack) Blank... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AYKR63O?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

For a single cable youu can just use a pass through bushing and silicone caulk - Single Feed-Thru Bushings - White - 100 Per Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004JOJQEY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_dvXsxbXQM09RC

Caulk the hole well, push the bushing, feed the cable, then caulk more to seal.

The jacket of regular ethernet Cable will degrade from sunlight over time. You really should use outdoor cable.

Alternatively if you want to run a few lines, do conduit and make it nice and clean, add a dragline for good measure (twine left in the conduit to pull more lines). also oversize the conduit - go with say 1". I prefer pvc, it's easier to work with and fine for low voltage cable.

Plug them all into a Pass through patch panel. Label it one for one with the labels on the cables. Should be pretty enough and functional. Then use patch cables and a nice 2u cable manager. Be nice of you to put some j-hooks on those shit studs about 2ft up and separated the cables from the power that its probably running on top of.

Heres a parts list.

Patch Panel

2u Cable Manager

J-Hooks

Patch Cables

Wall Rack Enclosure

1 of these

https://www.amazon.com/Shark-10-2206-Rockeater-Drywall-Saw/dp/B00004TBPV

You need 2 of these

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EMKYYPK/ref=psdc_11042041_t4_B00111AAZ2?th=1


You use these for any spot you need to cut a hole in the drywall


https://www.amazon.com/Taymac-WW-B-Standard-Metallic-Wallplate/dp/B00JTQZB3W/ref=sr_1_sc_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1522868808&sr=1-2-spell&keywords=single+gang+blank+wallplat

https://www.amazon.com/Arlington-LV1-1CS-Voltage-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B000UEAJWU/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1522868644&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=retro+drywall+box

Now everything looks nice, remains accessible, and none of the drywall needs to be patched.

Remember to lay down a bit of plastic under the spot you cut the holes to save yourself some drywall cleanup later. Vacuums do NOT like drywall dust. Do not ruin your parents vacuum.

Good luck!

The only way that makes sense is if these wires were run for phone wiring.

That said you could do 1 of 2 things

1 get a faceplate with 2 Ethernet jacks and punch down both and then jumper them together with a short Ethernet cable. I’m not familiar with euro faceplate sizes etc but something like this should do the trick for you. Maybe something like this for the Ethernet cable.

The second option, if you want to be able get Ethernet connectivity at the first port, would be to still install the double faceplate above, but also run a switch at that point. a basic switch like this would be fine, as long as it’s gigabit.

Yes you can do this , heres a cat 6 one:

https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Plate-ESYLink-Cable-Female/dp/B076GLSN5J/ref=sr_1_25?keywords=ethernet+pass+thru+wall+plates&qid=1573232225&s=electronics&sr=1-25

​

<---ethernet cable---> Wallplate with ethernet passthru coupler <----ethernet cable---> Wallplate with ethernet passthru cable <-------> ethernet cable

Drop ins for the wall: http://www.amazon.com/DataComm-45-0021-WH-Recessed-Voltage-Cable/dp/B001C4EAL8

I don't think it's that simple. I believe you need some sort of impedence-matching volume control. Something like THIS. Otherwise, you change the impedence of the speaker as seen by the amp.

I don't think you have a specific need to remove the coax, it won't buy you that much more space IMO. With such a small space and relatively low amount of cables I would personally just use keystone jacks without a patch panel and keep the cables bundled together to save space. You should have enough space to move the coax out of the way, terminate keystone jacks on each cable and just buy some small (a foot or less) patch cables to connect them all to a small switch.

I'd also look into Ethernet drops into every room, mounted to faceplates like so: https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Plate-ESYLink-Cable-Female/dp/B076GLSN5J/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=dual+ethernet+wall+plate&qid=1557318562&s=gateway&sprefix=dual+ethernet&sr=8-3

These are actually pretty cheap on amazon. They’re just outlets with basically like synthetic wires running out they you can just put them through. I have some down at the bottom as well. It was a pain as I forgot to check for beams. The first one was on the wrong side of the vertical running beam, and then I accidentally put it above a horizontal beam so I had to patch a few places. I can’t for the life of me remember what I had searched to find them, and they’re too far back in my amazon to let me find them

Edit: found them: PowerBridge Solutions PB-WPB-2 Cable Management Brush Wall Plate, Decora Style, Cable Pass Through, 2-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07712TG67/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uqZBCb4STZG35

I have no experience with some of these specific items but I wouldn't hesitate to buy them from what I've seen:

The cable:

https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Shielded-Waterproof-Ethernet-trueCABLE/dp/B01JAVN1C8/

The "ends" -- these are keystone jacks. You could put RJ45 plugs on, but I think keystone jacks are more forgiving, plus it's more flexible since you can plug a patch cable into this. Also, putting RJ45 ends on this direct bury cable will be tricky since it will have thicker shielding.

https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Cat6-Keystone-Jack-Compatible/dp/B07JRD69V6

The punchdown tool -- you could get by with a cheaper/simpler one like this -- you'll probably want this for stripping the jacket (it does both), though a razor blade will work too:

https://www.amazon.com/Mini-Wire-Stripper-Rj45-Cat5-Cable/dp/B07MQB7STL/

This is kind of a basic middle of the road example of a proper punchdown tool, though the previous one is fine for a small amount of work.

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Storage-Interchangeable-Reversible-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/

Once punched down, you can plug those keystone jacks into wall plates like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-10-Pack-Profile-Keystone/dp/B074HGPH18

Or surface mount boxes:

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-2-Port-Surface-Mount-107089/dp/B0069MDB9U/

You could even find a small patch panel.

Do you have attic space above your office? If so, consider running [speaker wire](http://www.NavePoint.com/ 250ft in Wall Audio Speaker Cable Wire CL2 14/2 AWG Gauge 2 Conductor Bulk White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ETLP48I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ATSWDb281J47W) through the ceiling and installing flush mount [ceiling speakers](http://www.Micca.com/ M-6C 6.5 Inch 2-Way in-Ceiling in-Wall Speaker with Pivoting 1" Silk Dome Tweeter (Each, White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0047PPR2A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lUSWDbRQSQPYT). The speaker wire can connect to a wall amp [like this](http://www.Pyle.com/ Bluetooth Receiver Wall Mount | In-Wall Audio Control Receiver with Built-in Amplifier | USB, Microphone, Aux (3.5mm) Input | Speaker Terminal Block | Connect 2 Speakers - 100 Watt (PWA15BT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010U5EGKE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fSSWDbF0DG0MA) so wires are totally concealed. You would then connect audio via Bluetooth.