(Part 3) Best drain cleaners & pumps according to redditors
We found 1,918 Reddit comments discussing the best drain cleaners & pumps. We ranked the 961 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
I recommend the Oatey Set-Rite
If you're gonna enjoy shower enemas, get yourself one of These and a Flow Regulator.
They're easy to screw on/off the shower hose, and will give you a LOT more control over the volume of water, which is super important so you don't hurt yourself!
The trick is to take it easy. Your colon is designed to contract and relax rhythmically, and it will do so no matter how much water you're pumping in there. If you're pushing a lot of water at the wrong time, you could easily burst through the wall of your colon and end up with an abdominal cavity full of bacteria-filled water - NOT A GOOD SITUATION!
Also, a little bit of vaseline on your poophole before insertion (and reapplied when it is washed off) will do wonders for preventing soreness and making things slide in easier. But don't use vaseline for other toys (or ESPECIALLY condoms) as it breaks down most rubber/silicone materials.
EDIT: I AM NOT A DOCTOR. And this is not medical advice. It's also not likely medically recommended in any way, shape or form.
I did this on my Speakman and the pressure is amazing.
To prevent my 40 gallon tank from draining in a few minutes, I got one of these. I use full pressure to wet and rinse, and then turn it down to a sprinkle while I lather my hair and body. Not only will this save hot water, you actually get a much sudsier experience. I think it's called a sailors shower
Deluxe LPT:
No matter which head you decide on, get a shower head valve so you can turn the water off while you soap up.
If you have a tiny hot water heater, a shower head valve and a low-flow shower head can let you take long showers again.
Plumber here. The auger you linked to isn't the worst option to have as a homeowner, but there's definitely better out there. What I use is this guy. It's 6' as opposed to 3', which means that if the blockage happens to be just past the toilet itself the auger will still be able to reach it. It's a much sturdier product, and these types of augers are not meant to be used gently, so having that added degree of sturdiness is a huge plus. Also, while it might seem trivial, being able to snap the end of the auger into the handle is extremely convenient so you don't have a sewage covered cable just dangling free. At about $50 it's more expensive than the $5 auger, but it's well worth it, and even at $50 that's a lot better than the ~$150 dollars a plumber will usually charge (depending on your location/company) to use that exact piece of equipment.
A replacement is $55.
I'd try some JB Weld on that crack until you can save up the $55 to replace it, but I'd plan to do that sooner rather than later.
Should be possible if you can DIY the electrics or know someone who can...
... that's $400 not incl shipping. Still need a bunch of 30A cable at $3/ft, a project box of some sort to mount the SSVR in (I use a $6 toolbox), maybe a chiller.
What do you want to know?
I will give you 3 pointers if you buy this particular unit, though. I only bought this because it's the cheapest 4 stage you can get, and I know I don't need all the bells and whistles (in-line TDS, etc -except one that I will mention in part 2 below) that come with the ones that cost way more.
220 definitely. 5500w element like this one.
Controller like this or similar DIY. I would add a volt/amp meter to get some feedback, like this one. If you have money to spare and want to go top of the line, a controller based on this unit is the most versatile. You also need an SSR and a temp probe, as well as a box, wiring, etc.
As for connecting it up, most triclamp to element kits I've seen are 2". So perhaps an integrated element/1.5" TC like this would be good. Otherwise, a simple adapter like this would work if you have the other parts.
But you can still buy them.
Even for the car!
I bought some black rubber sheets from Amazon, something like this https://www.amazon.com/6x6-Inch-Neoprene-Plumbing-Material-Protection/dp/B018H9CCPG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482726076&sr=8-2&keywords=black+rubber+sheet.
Cut the sheets down via exacto knife or box cutter. Two strips of 5mm x ~8.0 or ~8.5cm(this part can be adjusted).
I used Gorilla glue to glue them down, specifically the gel kind. I started near the top and then worked my down towards the curved edges on the bottom.
The end result looks like this: http://imgur.com/a/PSneJ
I loved the grip prior to doing this but the wobble drove me crazy, hope this helps. You can find the sheets in stores like Home Depot as well in the plumbing section but may not be black or as cheap.
I've installed two of the Takagi T-KJr. They're built like tanks, have been around forever, and are pretty efficient. They're also pretty inexpensive ($500-$600). I'm up in Wisconsin, so if this heater can keep up with our crazy delta Ts in single bath houses, I know it'll be able to keep up with your needs just fine. There are some larger heaters from other companies like Triangle Tube and Rinnai that are good, but they are much more expensive or oversized for what you need.
Sounds like you could use a [collapsable kettle] (https://www.amazon.com/Useful-UH-TP147-Electric-Collapsible-Travel/dp/B00ZJHXNIU).
Or even better, you could use an [immersion heater] (https://www.amazon.com/Lewis-N-Clark-Portable-Immersion/dp/B001U0PB1C/ref=pd_lpo_60_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=HQQTG0FG7821QSZJFXMB).
Immersion heaters work with any size container you want.
You can ask the cafe attendant for hot water, or just bring something like this (I think mine was under $10 at the local hardware store)
You might be able to use a high temperature pump and just cycle the liquid from the bottom to the top. Something like https://www.amazon.com/temperature-108GPH-DC12V-Water-grade/dp/B007XZAJ3I with some additional plumbing would probably work. Maybe something with more GPH if you think ~2 gallons per minute would be too little.
Full disclosure - my day-job is a research microbiologist and my lab works on anaerobic bacteria.
Your water heater has something called a sacrificial anode rod in it that is electrically contiguous with the steel tank. This anode is made from a less noble metal than iron; as a consequence, the anode is more reactive and sacrifices itself to oxidation preventing the steel tank from rusting away (rust is iron oxides).
Anodes are typically made from magnesium with a steel core. Here's where anaerobic bacteria come into the picture. They are present in municipal water supplies, and some of them thrive in an environment that is around 120-130^o F. Many of the enzymes they need for their growth are dependent on divalent cations - especially magnesium, the material the anode is made of. The anaerobic bacteria enter your tank with the municipal water supply and establish themselves in this niche. As indicated by u/wtfgolf4fun, the product of anaerobic respiration is hydrogen sulfide, which smells like rotten eggs.
There are two things you need to achieve:
Let's start with getting rid of the bacteria. Cut the power to the water heater. Remove the existing anode rod. Drain the tank. Add 3-4 gallons of drug-store hydrogen peroxide (3%) and let it sit for 1-2 hours. Then drain the hydrogen peroxide as well.
Next, how to prevent the smell from re-occuring. Aluminum and Zinc are also less noble than steel, and are not used effectively as divalent cations to support the growth of anaerobic bacteria. You can replace the magnesium anode with one made from aluminum or zinc. There are also permanent electrically powered anode rods; these run around $100, and will last the lifetime of your tank (~20 years).
In addition to changing the anode with an aluminum/zinc/powered anode, you should also raise the temperature for the upper and lower thermostats to 140^o F. This is high enough to kill >99.9% of the anaerobes typically present in municipal water supplies. If you do this, be aware that the higher temperature can scald. To prevent that from happening, you should install a water heater tank booster - so that the water temperature at hot water faucets remains 120^o F.
When you're all done, make sure the water heater is filled with water (i.e. cold water comes out of all hot water faucets) before restoring electric power to the heater.
I have a waste king, that's super cheap yet surprisingly powerful
http://www.amazon.com/Waste-King-L-8000-1-0-Horsepower-Continuous-Feed/dp/B000DZGN7Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427408083&sr=8-1&keywords=waste+king
John Guest valve
Personally, OP, I wouldn’t use a garden hose from outside. It would require you to leave it on all the time, and I don’t trust garden hoses to be on all day, let alone 24/7. Also, I don’t know about this particular maker, but a lot of higher end machines have liquid level boards and sensors so they know when and how much to refill automatically.
I would plumb from a sink indoors, so you don’t have to worry about freezing/bursting hoses and tubing during the cold months if you’re in certain climates. Tap into a sink with the following, if you plan to do it yourself (I usually urge people to hire professionals though):
http://www.hhdonline.com/pc_product_detail.asp?key=F58A52082DA6422091676E0C5554B675
(This hooks onto the shut-off for your sink—the compression nut goes onto the tube first, then the delrin sleeve [linked examples of all of those below] goes on the outside of your 1/4” JG tubing. The brass insert goes inside, then you screw it onto the tee. I would also add one of the plastic shut-off valves to your line under the sink before you run the rest of the line)
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/heating-and-cooling/air-conditioners-and-coolers/evaporative-cooler-parts-and-accessories/4518155
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/heating-and-cooling/air-conditioners-and-coolers/evaporative-cooler-parts-and-accessories/4265013
I would connect one of these under the sink and behind your espresso maker, but I’m overly cautious. I would also add a second shut-off for your water line right before the machine.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Push-Fit-Quick-Connect-Water-Leak-Controller-3-8-3-8-Emergency-Shut-Off-RO-/273006090140
John Guest PPSV040808WP Single Straight Shut-Off Valve, 1/4" Tube OD x 1/4" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003YKF2E2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xOOkDbE3T1Q0K
As a safety measure, I also like to use these, they clip behind the little protruding plastic pieces that go over the hose.
https://www.freshwatersystems.com/products/john-guest-locking-clip-1-4
As for that white fitting at the end of the blue line, I’m assuming that you’re supposed to put that on the machine, yes? Plastic fittings are fine, but these are an option if it ever strips, starts leaking, etc.:
https://www.freshwatersystems.com/products/john-guest-lead-free-brass-flare-female-connector-1-4-x-1-4-ffl
John Guest NC2098LF Female Garden Hose Connector, 1/4" OD x 3/4 (Pack of 10) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N4NJ1WI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ONOkDbNXJE6J2
As for any tips on John guest, I try not to bend in too many harsh angles—if you need are short on space, use an adapter with an elbow on it so the tubing doesn’t bend going into the machine. Bends and warps mean leak if you have to forcefully bend it to make the connection.
Again, worth it to see what a plumber costs and if they can do it, but I hope this helps!
Since you seem to know what you're doing why not get a non pc specific pump? I know they make small submersible pumps for fish tanks that are very low volume/min and take up nearly no room.
here's a tiny one
Here's another tiny one
I am unaware of anyone who sells kettles with threaded connections big enough for heat elements.
I would recommend getting kettle with a 1.5 TC port or using a weld-less 1.5 TC bulkhead and pairing it with a 1.5 TC heating element with the locking plug like this one. It is so nice to be able to "unplug" your kettle when you clean it.
good tidings
There are flange extension kits for just this kind of a problem:
https://www.amazon.com/Toilet-Extension-corrects-elevations-ranging/dp/B0025VS1US
Just a new seal may work in this case:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/NEXT-by-Danco-Perfect-Seal-Toilet-Wax-Ring-10718X/204817386
http://www.amazon.com/Set-Rite-Toilet-Flange-Extender-Kit/dp/B0025VS1US/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1415849009&sr=8-14&keywords=toilet+flange
This also works to repair broken flanges.
That's a Moen shower cartridge. It's either going to be a Posi-Temp cartridge or a single handle cartridge. The set clip is what you see pictured at the front of the valve where you see kind of a raised piece on the top front of the valve. Shut the entire house water off before removing said clip, then you need what's usually called a "Moen Tool" in our trade. Moen 104421 Cartridge Puller for 1200, 1222 and 1225 Single Handle Cartridges https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00083EC6C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pZqbzb2N5HVJA
Pull that sucker out and match the cartridge at a box store.
I assume the cartridge would be this one. Moen 1225 One-Handle Bathroom Faucet Cartridge Replacement, 8.5 x 2.5 x 1-Inch, Brass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006290R6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_t0qbzbB59YRF0
Best of advice if you don't know much, call a plumber. Could save you a headache and a bunch of wasted time, or possibly a ruined shower valve. Shouldn't be more than a $150 fix.
if you haven't already bought the kettle, I'd highly recommend something with tri-clamp adapters like Bru-Gear. Its a little more money up front to buy all the TC fittings but you can completely disconnect everything with minimal effort, including your element, for cleaning. then you can go with the 5500w stainless steel element.
Currently my favorite topic! The system is entirely reusable and has NO LEAKS, which is incredible. It uses PEX 1/2" piping and "Sharkbite" fittings. The connectors are key: they snap on with no tool! They snap off with a simple tool. And no leaks. They're so perfect for the burn it's hard to believe.
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We bring the water cube empty, and have it filled. The fill is before the build is complete so I have to the footprint survey very correct, as you can't move that thing an inch once filled. The cube's output is PEX-ed to an on-demand pump, exactly like you'd find in an RV. The pump's output is passed through a two-stage filter (first year with the water cube (2015) people kept talking about the taste being weird), and then to a four-way splitter (or "manifold" in plumber-speak): kitchen sink, shower, personal water fill spigot, and misters.
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The misters were new last year and key for unloading extra water during breakdown. Overall my work-level on the water supply is way lower, and people are way more satisfied. I keep greywater levels in control by setting the pressure to the shower and sink fairly low.
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No leaks! I'm still blown away by how perfect the system is for our weird use.
The longer the hose and chiller, the slower the water will go through. Those small pumps may work but as you can see by other people's comments, it can take up to 30 minutes or even more depending on water temp. In no way am I saying that is bad. It definitely works. If you want it quicker, get a pump like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X07GQS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That pump will chill quicker as it can push the water quicker through the chiller. Jaded recommends 6gpm coming out their chillers. 2gpm even with chilled water is really slow. Again, it may work but it will most likely be pretty slow chilling. $50 is a lot for a chilling pump but I also use it to clean my 3 taps all at once.
Just a thought
I had success with replacing the anode rod with a powered anode
Corro-Protec CP-R Water Heater Powered Titanium Anode Rod (40-80 Gallon Tank) - Eliminate Odor (Sulfur/rotten egg smell), Corrosion and Reduce Limescale https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H459TAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MU-jDbQV01TQ3
I also drained a few gallons from the water heater and put in about a gallon of bleach right before I placed the new powered anode
Get this Waste King L-8000 Legend Series 1.0-Horsepower Continuous-Feed Garbage Disposal $120.45
Or this one if you have a Costco membership
Waste King® 1 HP Universal Mount Garbage Disposer $119.99
I've got a Waste King that replaced a 1/3 HP In-Sink-Er-Ater. Do yourself a favor and just go for a full 1 HP. Anything less, and you're shorting yourself. I got mine on an Amazon Gold Box deal for a decent price. And it's a lot quieter than the old one.
As far as replacing goes, it's fairly simple, even without plumbing experience (I did mine in maybe an hour or two, apart from the wiring, and that was because I was being meticulous). Save the old components, I reused the short bit of pipe connecting the old disposal to the plumbing.
I also changed from a hard-wired to a GFCI outlet. It's not that hard to do... Just put the wires into a GFCI outlet (maybe $15 at your home improvement store) in a metal junction box (a few bucks), properly grounded, screwed into the cabinet with a face plate ("Leviton" style for most/all GFCI). Test the polarity to ensure you've got it right (honestly don't remember what I did, but hooked everything up according to the diagram), tested it, etc.
All in all, maybe 3-4 hours for a complete novice like me. It's been going strong for quite a while now, and the GFCI gives a decent measure of safety in case something leaks or goes wrong.
Waste King (and possibly others, but I have no experience with others) have putty-less installs, at least for stainless sinks. Just a gasket, a collar, and a fairly simple snap-connect fitting. If you have a dishwasher, be sure to punch the plug out for the connector for that to hook up the overflow. But most/all of that will be in the directions for hooking up the disposal. It really is a fairly fool-proof set of instructions. Especially if you have any mechanical ability at all. If you don't... call a friend. If you're in MD, PM me and we can work out something...
This is the disposal I ended up with. It's pretty decent, handles whatever I throw at it. Admittedly, it's less than I used to throw at the old disposal since changing my diet, but it has yet to back up or clog. And still is quieter than the older 1/3 HP one. Plus, lifetime warranty...
Good call. This one's a bit cheaper, if you wire it yourself. Then OP could afford a roaster oven to and a circulator pump to use it with.
Ironically, the larger more expensive ones with bigger motors are much quieter than the smaller, cheaper, weaker ones.
If you must have a disposal, I am a fan of Waste King models - their upper models (like this one) have stainless steel impellers, and much of the grinding mechanism is also stainless. They have a much thicker sound absorbing shroud than what you normally find (e.g. the In-Sink-Erators at the big box stores).
But... at the end of the day, they all pretty much do the same thing... spend over $100 on one and you will likely be happy with it.
This is difficult to answer because everyone tours differently. It's entirely possible to travel anywhere in the US, Canada or Mexico and not spend a single penny on lodging. You have to be very flexible with how far you are willing to travel in one day and where you are comfortable sleeping though. Sometimes I can find a free place to camp within a couple miles of looking. Other times I've had to ride 20 miles.
If you like staying in motels plan on that costing about $30-$60 per night on average anywhere in the US/Canada. In Mexico they run $10-$20 on average.
Campgrounds in Canada are expensive--usually $15-$20 a night on average. Along the West coast in the US they have hike/bike CG's that charge about $5. There are no campgrounds in Mexico except a couple on Baja. It's not hard to find free places to camp here but I prefer motels.
Food costs can also change a lot depending on how you tour. If you bring your own stove, cooking stuff and food you'll spend a lot less. If you stop and eat meals in restaurants that'll add up. You will eat a lot of junk food. On any given day I burn 5000-6000 calories so I have to keep eating. I probably spend $10-$15 on just between meal food per day. In Mexico all food is cheaper, especially at roadside stands. You have to buy bottled water down here so that adds some extra cost. I usually cook my own food even if I'm staying in motels. Get an immersion heater!
Bicycle costs can be high especially if you go with expensive components. I've replaced 2 chain rings, a chain, a rear cassette and paid $300. I could have bought cheaper ones but I don't want parts breaking in the middle of no where. If you can tune your own bike (or car) you'll save money too.
Look into replacing the anode rod in your hot water tank with a powered titanium rod. We just moved into a house we well water that smelled strongly I sulfur. I shocked the hot water tank with bleach (and then flushed thoroughly afterward) but also switched out the anode rod. I guess the corroding metal of the usual magnesium/aluminum produces a lot of hydrogen which leads to the production of hydrogen sulfide which is the rotten egg smell
Corro-Protec CP-R Titanium Powered Anode Rod for Water Heater (40-80 gal tank) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H459TAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vHpVBbGD1GMJ1
The tool you’re after is a Moen cartridge puller
Moen 104421 Cartridge Puller for 1200, 1222 and 1225 Single Handle Cartridges https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00083EC6C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_igz1CbWMN6GX1
They're not all that expensive.
http://www.amazon.com/Takagi-T-KJr2-IN-NG-Indoor-Tankless-Natural/dp/B0057X27OC
https://www.amazon.com/Takagi-T-KJr2-Indoor-Tankless-Natural/dp/B0057X27OC
I'm not near there but I'd bet someone on here is. This is the Takagi tankless, I've installed several of these, they are super easy. $532 for the tankless + about $100 for the valves and pex.
Let's do some math, and see what your water usage is costing you now. I'm going to assume you're not doing laundry with hot water, if you are, stop. Just turn off the hot water to the washer, you don't need it. I'm also going to assume 10 minute showers each, and a load of dishes every two days. And I'm going to assume you have fairly typical equipment, 2.5gpm shower heads and a standard water heater.
An electric water heater with a 3000W element can typically heat 13.1 gallons of water/hour from 50degF to 140degF. [Water heater recovery rate = watts / (2.42 delta t).] And a fairly typical water heater losses about 70watts to standby losses.
So, two 10 minute showers at 2.5 gallons per minute is 20m 2.5gpm = 50 gallons for shower. And lets say another 5 gallons per day for the dishwasher. That's 55 gallons per day.
55gallons / 13.1gallons/hour = 4.20 hours per day that your water heater needs to run to heat that amount of water back up. 4.20 hours $0.0962/kWh 3kW = $1.21/day to heat that water. Add in 0.070kW 24 hours $0.0962 = $0.16 dollars per day in standby losses, for a total of $1.37 per day to run your hot water heater. $1.37 365 / 12 = $41.72/month for hot water.
Now, lets see what can be done with that for much cheaper than the other options you listed.
I have a low flow shower head that I would easily recommend, it's 1.25gpm. You can find them on amazon.com for $8.00
That alone will reduce your usage from 55 gallons per day to 30 gallons. So those calculations then become 30gallons / 13.1 gallons per hour 3kw $0.0962 per kWh = $0.66/day or $24.99 per month.
A drain water heat recovery unit gets more efficient the lower the flow rate is. Lets say that at 1.25gpm a 42inch model is 50% efficient, it's likely better than that, but we'll call that good enough. But lets also consider the temperature losses from the water heater to the drain about 20 degrees F. 140 deg F - 50 deg F = 90 Deg F delta T. 90 deg F - 20 deg F (losses) = 70 deg F. 0.5 70 deg F = 35 deg F 90 deg F - 35 deg F = 55 deg F. So your new delta T with a smallish drain water heat recovery unit is now 55 deg F when water is flowing in both directions through it.
3000/(2.42 55 deg F) = 22.5 gallons per hour that your water heater can now make when showering.
Now your usages will cost: 30 gallons / 22.5 gallons per hour 3kW $0.0962 per KWh = $0.385 per day or $11.7 per month. With a total of $28.3 per month.
Now lets talk about those standby losses. You can get an R10 water heater blanket that will most likely double the insulation on your water heater. Add R10 worth or rigid foam insulation under the water heater to complete the envelope, and heat traps to slow the flow of heat up the pipes, and that should reduce the standby losses by half. So, $0.16 / 2 = $0.08 /day.
With those things, that would effect any water heater and can stay with the house and not with the water heater, you're now looking at $22.53 per month, a savings of $19.2 per month.
Then, you sit back and wait for mini split heat pump water heaters to make it big in North America and then you upgrade. Or just use solar panels to supply that much smaller amount of power you now need to heat water with a traditional electric water heater.
I'd also recommend a powered anode because changing the anode is a pain in the ass, and insulating your water pipes as much as you can.
*I did the calculations for the drain water heat recovery unit while I waited for the American homedepot site to load so I could get a relevant link only to find they don't list the same 42 inch version I'm putting in my place. I'll let you figure out which one to get and where
**If your showers are longer or shower, hotter or colder, than I calculated for, that will obviously impact the number quite a lot.
Buy this Dramm shutoff valve and this Dramm water breaker nozzle and you will be golden. I used this on a farm where they had them for many many years of heavy use. The shutoff valve is heavy brass with a stainless steel ball valve. You will have these for the rest of your life.
EDIT: I don't work on that farm anymore but I have 2 sets of what I have linked above at my house. One for the hose in the front of the house and one for the back of the house. I wouldn't live without them. I also have a number of friends who have purchased this at my suggestion and are so damn happy not to have to keep replacing their crappy nozzles.
This. After having so many of the zinc nozzles split open, it's nice to have something decent that feels like it will last forever.
I would combine it with a nice ball shutoff valve, ideally this one. Not cheap, but it'll probably outlast you and you'll feel good using it. (E.g., nice big solid brass handle -- compare to crappy plastic knob on Gilmour shutoff, painted to look like brass, that you know is eventually going to crack & fall off.) Check out the Amazon reviews.
If you ever get an opportunity to get a "water breaker" (basically the head off a watering wand, which is exactly how I got mine -- look for people throwing these out; head is probably still fine, just unscrew), this makes a good addition. You can screw this on to your shutoff instead of the brass valve and get a nice gentle spray onto newly planted beds or other delicate plants, while at the same time delivering lots of water.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0057X27OC/ref=psdc_3754791_t1_B00DDPZ5HM
For the $500 model.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00DDPZ5HM/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3NJ9RMM8KBCU&colid=3NFJLKZEG7L6I
For the condensing, $1100 model.
Not sure exactly what elements I'm going with. Based on the conversation and my experience with elements it will be one of the following. Will depend on what kettle i get and tri-clamp attachements (1.5" vs 2")
3500w https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M5BSMSW
5500w https://www.brew-boss.com/ULWD-L6-30P-Stainless-Steel-Ripple-Heater-Element-p/htr-5500-ripple-l6-30p.htm
5500w https://www.amazon.com/Dernord-Tri-clamp-Stainless-Immersion-Electrical/dp/B075KCJX8W
A 0.28 second Google Search would have shown you they have...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HHQAQY/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you're going to get a tiny pump like that, there are cheaper ones on Amazon like this one. The only difference being the connections. The one you linked has NPT which means it will be easier to hook into your current system, but there's no reason you can't use the one I linked as well.
Perhaps not an ideal fix, but a much cheaper solution would be a “flange extender”.
You just need the right tool for the job is all. Also, don't pour scalding water in there anymore. You're ASKING for bigger problems. Toilets are ceramic... and constantly filled with COLD water. The heat stress can break it. Ever take a glass fresh out of the dishwasher and put cold water in it? POP! It's the same concept, but going from cold to hot instead of hot to cold.
https://www.amazon.com/RIDGID-59797-Toilet-Clogged-Toilets/dp/B000H5XRM6
Available at Home Depot
It's literally raw balsa wood.
https://www.amazon.com/6x6-Inch-Neoprene-Plumbing-Material-Protection/dp/B018H9CCPG/ref=pd_sbs_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B018H9CCPG&pd_rd_r=457NFRVKE0ZY1WA2ZHW5&pd_rd_w=ehRBM&pd_rd_wg=UNP8G&psc=1&refRID=457NFRVKE0ZY1WA2ZHW5&dpID=316g3BYm-AL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail
That's the rubber sheets I use. I cut it into little pads that rest along the lid. It's really nothing fancy and looks pretty ratchet. I would post pics but I am out of the country for a few months.
The reason I use balsa wood is it's light and cheap. I used to use sheets but I didn't like the weight they put on knobs, sliders, etc.
https://www.amazon.com/Moen-104421-Cartridge-Puller-Cartridges/dp/B00083EC6C
They sell them at home Depot and Lowes too. Most major box stores should have them
Why is it the food grade pump on amazon is $30 but a pump for brewing cost over $100. https://www.amazon.com/temperature-108GPH-DC12V-Water-grade/dp/B007XZAJ3I
Just buy the cheapest one possible. For whatever reason, my 19 year old house has a builders-grade, GE 1/3? HP disposal, and it refuses to die.
I also replaced a friends failed disposal with this one: http://www.amazon.com/Waste-King-L-111-Continuous-Operation/dp/B0014X96YS/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1397838361&sr=8-6&keywords=waste+king and there wasn't any issues.
I use these since they can run dry and create a lot of pressure so work great for a drip system (they are used to create artificial water pressure in RVs): http://www.amazon.com/SHURflo-Industrial-Pump-Model-2088-594-154/dp/B0001FAA5Y
You will need to use a sprinkler filter before the pump, as solid particles can damage the pump diaphragm.
I should mention you will see huge gains with a drip system over hand watering. I have it set for one minute every 2 hours and my plants have never looked healthier.
Hey guys, what about this thing: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0183KIU1E?psc=1 Will it work for a 12v DC battery bank dump load? also, does DC or AC matter as a dummy load?
If you want a buy-it-for-life shut-off valve, the Dramm brass valve is the way to go:
https://www.amazon.com/Dramm-114960-036434-Heavy-Duty-Shut-Off/dp/B000HHQAQY/
Just don't drop it on your bare feet or there will be lots of cursing.
There are a ton of ways to do this. I just bought a system off of amazon, (ispring water RCC7). Super easy install. Comes with a valve that goes in between the faucet and the shutoff valve under the sink. No permenant modification needed. SHut off the water to the faucet, unscrew the tube going to the faucet, install the diverter valve, turn water back on.
Don't want a RO faucet on the counter? Get a 1/4" shutoff valve, 5 bucks on amazon. Don't wan to drill into the drain? Run the drain line up and just fix it to the edge of the sink with tape or putty or hot glue or something. It won't be super pretty, but it'll work great, and be completely removable and movable in about 20 min.
RO Unit: ~$190 USD https://smile.amazon.com/iSpring-RCC7-Certified-5-Stage-Drinking/dp/B003XELTTG/
shutoff valve (in lieu of a counter-mounted faucet) https://smile.amazon.com/John-Guest-PPSV040808WP-Straight-Shut-Off/dp/B003YKF2E2
Sorry for the late reply, I'm probably the only one who checks this sub. I have a double IBC tote setup, with this pump: https://www.amazon.com/Shurflo-2088-594-154-2088-Diaphragm-Industrial/dp/B0001FAA5Y/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499722510&sr=8-1-fkmr2&keywords=in-line+water+pump+shurflo
With a couple of in-line filters: this on on the pump inlet: https://www.amazon.com/SHURFLO-255-315-Swivel-Water-Strainer/dp/B002XM3IP2/ref=pd_sim_60_8?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002XM3IP2&pd_rd_r=YQ8Y2Y060CD2PTJX5HB0&pd_rd_w=RXwRJ&pd_rd_wg=dIo1a&psc=1&refRID=YQ8Y2Y060CD2PTJX5HB0
And this one (I think) on the IBC outlet: https://www.amazon.com/Female-Strainer-mounting-stainless-screen/dp/B00CH18YFS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499722741&sr=8-1&keywords=inline+strainer
I think my long hose is 100ft. Is there a lot of head? What kind of sprinkler is it? How large of an area do you want to cover?
I have a sprinkler similar to this one that works pretty well, probably covers around 12x12ft? https://www.amazon.com/Sprinkler-medium-watering-troubleshooting-Needed/dp/B01HB1NVH4/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1499722821&sr=8-6&keywords=sprinkler
I've used it with another sprinkler like this, but there are too many holes, so not enough pressure https://www.amazon.com/Gilmour-Light-Circle-Pattern-Sprinkler/dp/B000KL17BU/ref=sr_1_47?ie=UTF8&qid=1499722890&sr=8-47&keywords=sprinkler
I've used them in two areas in my yard with about an 8ft difference in head. Neither were effected much by the head difference.
At work we have 3 ~800gal cisterns for our plant nursery. We have a pump similar if not the same model as this one which we use for the normal back-and-forth style lawn sprinklers. It works great, but again very little head. I think we might be able to run two sprinklers at a time with this one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YVPSK?ref=emc_b_5_i
To take off the handle
To pull out the cartridge
$80 for the pump on amazon, Foxx sells them for way more than they're worth. but you can get submersible ones for even cheaper.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001FAA5Y/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=RMQ6B8R1O540&coliid=I3O2VQVIO4BUHA
You can try to cut some rubber pieces to place between the bracket and case to provide vibration isolation. Pretty cheap to get a small sheet on amazon and give a try.
Adding on another sump pump question... Is Wayne a decent brand. Looking to purchase the WSS30V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0070HY5CA/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_SU-uzbRV25A1P
purchased a house with a finished basement but the sump pump has no backup or battery
Dammit, I closed the wrong window and have to retype this.
I wouldn't use a float since mechanical stuff like that has trouble, especially if your water is hard. I'd use a resistance sensor, and if it's over a megaohm or so, shut down. As long as you don't use distilled and deionized water, it should work fine.
High temp pumps are expensive (although low temp pumps are cheap, they won't handle 80C). It'd be much cheaper to mount a small motor to spin a paddle in a housing. I do have a bookmark of this guy, which might work though.
I was looking at this site to get an electronic thermometer. I think they have I^(2)C sensors, but haven't looked lately. Sparkfun has a cheap one but that loses accuracy higher than 85C, which might be fine. Generally, within 1F is good enough. I'm just pulling some bookmarks and going off memory....
You're on the right track but just fyi should you need it, you can install one of these between the shower head and neck:
https://www.amazon.com/Huntington-16-700cp-Showerhead-Control-Valve/dp/B0025VWDGQ
I would recommend going with something with a higher flow rate than your usual pond pump. I use a submersible utility pump with pretty good results. The flow rates and power of a utility pumps are better suited for pushing water through the 25+ feet length of an IC.
Is it a Moen? Looks a little like it. They require a special tool that fits over the top. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00083EC6C/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_gGoYDbYXC7A6T
(Disregard this, definitely not correct)
I got something like this that I used to throw in a sink full of ice water (about 40 pounds, plus enough water to partially submerge the pump). It had no issue shooting through a 50 foot 3/8" SS chiller for recirculation. Benefit is you aren't tethered to any particular area for chilling, and it saves water. 40 pounds of ice is, like, $5, and gets you to pitching temps in under 10 minutes.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000X07GQS/ref=twister_B00MYTZO0G?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It's killer peace of mind. Power outage, you're covered. Pump failure, you're covered. I have this one and it's worth its weight is gold because of that redundancy. My sump pump runs frequently in the spring and regularly enough all summer for it to be very bad if it failed.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0070HY5CA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fLWUAbDHHRY9S
Been happy with this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000X07GQS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Heres a good pump http://www.amazon.com/temperature-15GPH-Water-Pump-grade/dp/B004HHW0FU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1341652283&sr=8-1&keywords=hot+pump
They can be, for $10. That's what we have and it's awesome.
Unfortunately, we bought the control panel used so we don't know how it's wired. These are the heating elements we're using. We brewed a batch a few weeks ago with a straight heating element that's 3500W and it didn't trip.
This is what we use at the greenhouse/nursery where I work to solve that problem:
https://www.amazon.com/Dramm-12353-Heavy-Duty-Brass-Shut-Off/dp/B000HHQAQY
Attach it to your hose end and then attach the water dispenser of your choice to the end.
They have I have seen them before in a resaturant or bar or something (I was drinking so it was the best thing ever for a good while), but I just gave a quick look and they have similar thing on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/Hands-Toilet-Flusher-Pedal-Adapter/dp/B0018RVWZ6
I replaced it with this (got it from Amazon). The new pump runs every so often but I haven't really heard or noticed it. I guess I was more annoyed with the sound of it going off every minute with the old one.
Amazon has a good selection for less money.
If you're on a budget, a less-powerful (but still good) unit can run closer to $50.
As you say, installation is simple. I installed this unit a couple of months ago. The whole job took under an hour.
Below are most of parts that are needed for the kettle and electronics controller. I don't think I forgot anything. You would obviously need to be a little handy and have some tools like files, a drill, etc.
--
Let me know if you have any other questions!
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Item| Count | Cost | Link
---|---|----|----
Kettle - SS Brewtech 15 gal|1|$239.00|https://www.homebrewsupply.com/ss-brewtech-15-gallon-stainless-steel-kettle.html
Weldless 1.5" TC|1|$24.00|https://www.brewhardware.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=TC15WLF
Hole saw for 1.5" weldless TC|1|$19.00|https://www.brewhardware.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=holesaw40
Pump|1|$94.99|https://www.brewhardware.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=Mark2SS
Tri-Clamp Fitting|1|$7.48|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073J5MHRP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
1/2" bulkhead|1|$8.50|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IJI0TH4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
1/2" Npt ball valve for pump|1|$12.99|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0734QDGZW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
1/2" ID silocne tubing|1|$19.61|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074Q6QF9S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Spray Wort Aerator|1|$6.66|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ODSS5J8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
||||
Electronics|||
10x8x6 Wall Mount Box w/ 40A heatsink|1|$75.55|https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34&products_id=616
RTD probe|1|$64.95|https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_15&products_id=767
High Amp Main Switch|1|$12.00|https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=69_32&products_id=586
120v 15A Socket|2|$1.95|https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34&products_id=274
120v 10A Rocker Switch|2|$1.80|https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=69_32&products_id=435
Fuse holder (pack of 5)|1|$2.99|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQWXW9S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Nema L6-30 socket 30A 240V|1|$12.39|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002NAT9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Nema L14-30 Extension cord for main power|1|$56.00|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072F8P2SN/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Nema L6-30 Power cord for Element|1|$29.95|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07935M281/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
240v 5500W heating element|1|$60.00|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075KCJX8W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Inkbird PID temp Controller|1|$23.99|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LQ8TPDC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Yes, I've added hot water to the keg before to help it dissolve. It helps, but still requires a fair bit of stirring.
I figured that I'd just add some pressure to the keg and bleed the pump outlet side in order to prime it.
I actually have one of these diaphragm pumps sitting around in the garage; I might try that.
So, in case it's helpful... I used the auger incorrectly on my first attempt. I tried to extend it all the way before putting it into the toilet. Insert joke about a limp noodle.
The proper way to do it is to pull the auger's handle back so that the auger retracts into the casing. Then position the case inside the toilet, and push on the handle. That causes the snake to follow the pipe nicely.
You were probably doing that, but I wasn't sure. Also a plumber further down this thread recommended this bad boy which is 6ft long. It's $50 though.
Someone else recommended a drain bladder too, which seems equally effective. $20
I just ordered supplies from Amazon and would love feedback. I decided to go for a scissor jack, though that seems somewhat controversial in the DIY cider press world. The travel is amazing, they are light, cheap and I can operate it with a cordless drill.
Another big question is this 50 quart steamer basket. Cheap, but will it hold up to the strain? I guess the good news is that by going big now (12 gallons!), I can always downsize later.
I'm looking at mounting the disposal in a plastic tub, supported by a wood frame. I'm still working on the design (and will post here, with credit to you knockfer, when its done!).
Finally, instead of the very cool wood drainage platform you made, I'm opting for a simpler cutting board, and will drill a hole and attach a tube for drainage. Still figuring out that detail.
I'd welcome any thoughts about all this, and am so grateful for your inspiration! I'd never heard of using a garbage disposal as a chopper before. My wife is going to love this!
The kit said they are preinstalled. This backup combo kit came as one unit and the manual says there’s a check valve in each. See here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0070HY5CA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
What's your boiler wattage? I'm running 2.5 gpm with 85 degree water source on a 5.5 kW burner and haven't had a problem.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X07GQS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
boy that's really something. these are the same type of "kits" you'd find at a local hardware store. i just ordered a kit with m3-m4-m5 nuts bolts and washers, then another kit with m3-m4-m5 hammer nuts! plus, i got some rubber sheets in case i want to use them to cut to size for things like the stock part cooling fan, the y-axis brace where it touches the frame, and even the new squash ball feet i just mounted this morning! i'm not sure if the lengths all match up to what i want, but i suppose i could just find some longer/shorter if need be.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018H9CCPG
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0799KSXN9
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077Z94V83