(Part 2) Best extension cords according to redditors

Looks really nice, might I suggest for further tweaking, something along these lines?

https://www.amazon.com/Extension-Cord-Flat-Rotating-Plug/dp/B008I5SHKE/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1496500289&sr=8-16&keywords=Flat+Wall+Plug

I prefer these. They let you turn any power strip or wall outlet even into a squid. They're especially useful for blow dryers and curling irons because of the massive ground fault wall warts that they typically have.

I got one of these for me DD1! Works a treat. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JNBTS8V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_T5cqDbGY0Y0K4

What's stopping someone from simply rigging a foot pedal power switch?

IMO, $99 seems exhorbitantly expensive for something that solely exists to make a >$1k piece of hardware not work. IDK how, but there's got to be more to it, right?

http://www.amazon.com/ClearMax-OVSPLUG10PK-1-Feet-Extender-Extension/dp/B00DHNX4ZK/ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

If you don't mind going the DIY route, you could probably come in under $100 for parts for the strips:

• LED Strips - https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-16-4ft-300leds-Waterproof-Flexible/dp/B00KYKEUXO/
  
• Power Supply - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073QTNF9F/
  
• Wifi controller - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DY56N8U/
  
• Extension cable - https://www.amazon.com/LEDENET-Extension-Cable-Color-ribbon/dp/B00J4HI746/
  
• Snap-on Connectors - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CNYZ0NW/
  
• Channel for mounting - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LL2SLME/
  
  Instead of the flat channel, you might be better off with angled channel for mounting the strips above the cabinets, since they'll throw more light on the wall, which is what you'll actually see - https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Aluminum-Mounting-Installations-1901-V/dp/B00PJSSD7K/
  
  There's a ZWave RGBW controller but it's more expensive than the wifi one and can take some more configuration: https://www.amazon.com/Fibaro-Micro-Controller-Z-wave-Strips/dp/B00P1N68FW/
  
  If you get the snap-on connectors, I recommend putting a small amount of solder on all of the pads where you'll be connecting them on the strips, so that they make a good connection.
  
  As for the puck lights, you could probably get something like this and wire the distributor to the wifi/ZWave controller, instead of plugging it into the controller it comes with: https://www.amazon.com/Changing-Christmas-Furniture-Ambiance-Lighting/dp/B01N2I47VH/ref=sr_1_2

I use the following extension cord for 240v and happy about it

NU-CORD 94561E 50-Feet 50-Amp Rv Extension Cord

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005GXQDHU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Mq-JBb5FTH84Q

That’s why I bought a bunch of these. Very useful.

In case this is helpful:

>> UK plug

I have the CX450 with UK plug. I use this to plug it into. Works very well for me. I am not very knowledgeable on electrical stuff, so this may not be very useful for you.

BTW, the solution to this problem is a product like this. Allows you to plug in 5 items, no matter how big the transformer is, to a single outlet.

Or even something as simple as a set of 1 foot long extension cords

Re: crappy wall warts that take up too much surge protector space. I carry around a couple real short extension cords, like 6 inches long, in my travel bag.

Like these ones: https://www.amazon.com/Listed-Miady-Short-Extension-Outlet/dp/B07H9LPFDB/ref=sr_1_29_sspa?crid=1AGOZJPSYYGDP&keywords=6%27%2Bextension%2Bcord%2B3%2Bprong&qid=1554271873&s=gateway&sprefix=6%27%2Bextension%2Bc%2Caps%2C165&sr=8-29-spons&th=1

42 miles on a Gen2 is roughly 75% of the battery range, and a full charge on L1 takes ~11-12 hours at 12A. So, if you're actually able to charge at 12A (meaning there are no other loads on the same circuit) you may be able to recharge fully over an 8hr day. If, and this is more likely, you have to drop down to 8A, you won't get a full charge, but you'll probably get enough to get back home no problem.

The factory EVSE is totally fine in the rain, you don't need to search for another waterproof one or worry about covering it up. Just don't leave it sitting in a puddle. J1772 extensions are expensive, you're better off getting a 12- or 10-gauge extension cord and protecting the 120V plug from water using something like this.

Most of the parts on your build are fine. But if its possible you should change the power supply to an EVGA 500B or a Seasonic 520W since its just a few more dollars.

And this is just me nitpicking, I have the same Wifi card. Although its not terrible I would opt for a powerline adapter such as this tplink. Although the internet speeds stay sorta the same, you will get more consistent signals and better ping with powerline (assuming your house isn't 100 years old).

And if you are going the powerline route buy this cable pack since that particular model that I posted above takes up too much wall plug space, and these power strip extensions/savers will help a lot.

One more thing, if its possible you could buy a smaller ssd (like a 240 or 256 gb) and buy a 1tb hdd for some space. Sorry I'm not too familiar with the Ryzen cpus, but I think yours comes with a stock cooler that already has some thermal paste preloaded (so I guess you can remove that noctua paste on your list).

Good luck on your journey to the master race friend.

-Jp876

This bugged me too. Until I realized I could just get a remote switch (something like this https://www.amazon.com/Woods-Indoor-Extension-Remote-Switch/dp/B000KKND86) and my life is 100x better now. Seriously it's worth it.

65.6 ft 4 Color 22 AWG RGB Extension Cable Line for LED Strip RGB 5050 3528 Cord 4pin wire https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L67YQ9W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RQhXCbAB89MRQ

There’s a bunch of different sellers on Amazon, this was just the first one I found.

You've done an excellent job with wiring, but can I make a suggestion? Use a flat rotating head extension cord for that plug under your desk. You can get rid of the hanging look and have a cable go straight up the back wall instead of what it's doing now.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Extension-Cord-Flat-Rotating-Plug/dp/B008I5SHKE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521920155&sr=8-3&keywords=flat+rotating+plug&dpID=21cZWNTVyjL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Did you ever try one of these safety seals? I've always wondered how well they work.

Short extension cords are your friend. I keep one of these in my laptop bag: https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Power-Extension-Cable-Listed/dp/B00CDVX330/

That looks like a lamp. Just purchase a lamp cord replacement like that one and replace the whole thing. Super easy.

I mean...

Get an appliance extension cord.

Not sure what the needs of the specific machine are... but something like this might work.
http://www.amazon.com/Prime-PS010608-8-Feet-Replacement-Supply/dp/B0022NH7G8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1416936558&sr=8-3&keywords=replacement+power+cord

However I might not be so willing to plug it right in unless you have some idea of what and how to fix these units. I know from some things I've read they can be a little temperamental and require some basic maintenance/care/lubrication.

They also do make these as well, and you can get them from just about any home center
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-Straight-Residential-Polarized-Non-Grounding/dp/B000FPAN84/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416936680&sr=8-1&keywords=replacement+plug&pebp=1416936666278

I'm not sure what the question is, but if you're saying you can't use an extension cord because it will protrude too much, try one of these - or look for something similar:

https://www.amazon.com/Extension-Cord-Flat-Rotating-Plug/dp/B008I5SHKE/ref=pd_sim_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B008I5SHKE&pd_rd_r=CFXMCG0ZBY399FK5KCR9&pd_rd_w=V4AQo&pd_rd_wg=ZhuWK&psc=1&refRID=CFXMCG0ZBY399FK5KCR9

http://www.amazon.com/Woods-Extension-Switch-Remote-15-Feet/dp/B000KKND86/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1451968504&sr=8-2&keywords=on+off+switch+extension+cord

Planning on using it to do the occasional 5/gal on the stove indoors. Looks like the mediocre reviews are not brewers at all, although the chrome flaking seems possibly problematic. At $8 shipped, can't complain though. Seems like I'll want to have one of these for switching and bonus protection: http://www.amazon.com/TRC-90026-6-012-Shockshield-GFCI-9-Inch/dp/B000XU782K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410263535&sr=8-1&keywords=gfci+pigtail

You should not be using an extension cord for a PC drawing 300-400w of power unless it's one made for such high amounts of wattage. If you are using one already then ignore this comment if you aren't then you need to get something like this.

Awe hugs Just think about your Lush bath! What product from Lush do you use for bath time? I've only used a few of their products before, but they were stellar!

If it makes you feel any better, I am still using (& still adore!) the cross stitch book mark that you made me for a contest a while back :) I get so many compliments on it!

Hmm, let's see. This long charging cable would be awesome because mine recently broke (somehow, I will find the culprit!). This doge dishwater magnet would be PERFECT because my roommate and I have ongoing doge jokes, and her birthday is coming up so I'd love to surprise her with it! And this power extension chord would be extremely helpful because my laptop chord is ridiculously short, and I recently had to remove my laptop's battery because it was overheating, so I have to keep it plugged in at all times. & this bracelet because it's pretty badass!

Total = $19.04

Thanks for hosting <3 I hope you feel better sweetie.

Edit: to add total price.

generic safety upgrade: Use a GFCI, either by plugging into a GFCI outlet in your wall, or having a GFCI breaker in your distribution panel (AKA "breaker box"), or using a GFCI extension cord such as https://www.amazon.com/26020008-6-Shockshield-Protected-Tri-Cord-3-Outlets/dp/B000HHQIK2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537806876&sr=8-3&keywords=gfci+extension

The way GFCI works is by measuring current on the hot and neutral lines independently. If they are different by more than around 25-50mA, it trips. The reason the values might be different is if some current is returning through your ground line instead of neutral.

So if anything shorts out and touches your printer chassis - which should be grounded - it will trip with only about 0.05A of current flowing, rather than having to wait for the fuse/breaker to blow, which takes longer.

For the power supply I only recommend Delta, Lambda, and to a lesser degree, Mean Well and Cosel. The reasoning around power supply quality is hard to explain simply but if you spend time watching youtubers like EEVBlog and MikesElectricStuff and BigCliveDotCom look at power supplies, they'll show you why some bad supplies are indeed bad. EDIT: Also it's a good idea to have a known brand with a UL certification, because if your house ever catches fire (whether or not the 3d printer actually caused it), inspectors are going to look for any possible explanation for it, including non-certified mains power equipment, to potentially deny you for insurance coverage. Most of those cheap $20 supplies aren't UL certified (even if they have a UL logo, it's probably counterfeit).

This is sort of a general answer to your title but I can't help with the noises you talk about, sorry. But literally no matter which 3d printer you use, it's a very good idea for your safety to run it with a GFCI outlet/adapter/breaker.

4x Four Light Vanity Strip - $51
4x lamp cords with switch - $27
1x Power strip - $5
Pack of wagos - $2
Total cost = $85
Total wattage for the whole thing is 16 60 = 960
Total wattage for each strip 4 60 = 240

Reason I'm recommending wagos is that most people don't know the proper way to use wirenuts so this will hopefully be easier for you in this case.

If you knew what you where doing you could build this at a cheaper price but given your hesitation to this project I'd recommend using a Four Light Vanity Strip instead of stringing together 4x4 lampholders.

The item i mentioned is not that much for Surges but for high and low voltage cutoff.

I'm using this for Surges

https://www.amazon.in/Goldmedal-Curve-205101-Plastic-i-Strip/dp/B0114BF6C0

I have these in mind -

• Ups for backup (luminous 600va)
  
  
• goldmedal strip for Surges
  
  
• that smartplug for high low voltage cut off
  
  
• finding a Stabilizer for pc for voltage regulation
  
  
• I have a goldmedal UK plug for corsair cx 450 Smps with a surge protector in it

If using monolights in the field w/o a battery pack (as if you need something else in your gear bags) strongly consider carrying GFCI pigtails for your equipment.

They are required where I typically work (industrial sites) and by OSHA, and I have a dedicated truck so the weight/bulk isn't an issue. Either way they are the cheapest health insurance you'll ever buy.

I don't see a GFI outlet on there. (ground fault interrupter) You really really need one even without the tangled mess. It is basically a super fast breaker board and can save your ass. You can directly put the power strip to it. With a good one you could stick your wet fingers in the sockets connected to it and not get shocked before it trips. Of course this also causes your tank to not get electrocuted if say your heater broke.

Even if your power strip advertises some sort of safety mechanism. It's not exactly the same thing or as safe.

https://www.amazon.com/TRC-26020008-6-Shockshield-Protected-3-Outlets/dp/B000HHQIK2/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1498663269&sr=8-14&keywords=gfci+plug

Yeah you can cut them anywhere you see the 4 metal contact points in the strip. The tricky part is soldering the wire on to the contacts without shorting them or melting the plastic backer.

I would suggest ordering a roll of LED strip wire from Amazon. Speaker wire should work fine as long as you have 4 insulated wires.

The Led strip wire is nice because it is color coded

Good luck

65.6 ft 4 Color 22 AWG RGB Extension Cable Line for LED Strip RGB 5050 3528 Cord 4pin wire https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L67YQ9W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nASxCbJAQQ4ZV

All wired to Mean Well 100W PSU (which ended up being overkill - I could run as many as 15 and still have wiggle room):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010CKUDZO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0022NH7G8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The Mean Well provides 2x5V positive and negative terminals. These are split out via Wago Lever-Nuts using 12 gauge wire (overkill on wire gauge, but better safe than sorry):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q7WM3SK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0756TDTDM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Finally, I just cut and stripped short runs of el-budigto dupont wire to connect runs from the APis to the Wago Lever-Nuts:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GD2BWPY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you have any questions or need more pictures, feel free to ask!

How long do you need? Here is a 6 ft

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0022NH420/

https://www.amazon.com/daylight-Bi-pin-halogen-replacement-equivalent-5packs/dp/B077Q4WCWT/ref=asc_df_B077Q4WCWT/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241869999306&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11880619207738113069&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9002051&hvtargid=pla-411526575340&psc=1

​

https://www.amazon.com/Satco-Threaded-G9-Halogen-Socket/dp/B004JQWXLA/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1543245710&sr=1-3-spons&keywords=g9+socket&psc=1

​

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Molded-8-Foot-Brown-54435/dp/B000UTE278/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1543245971&sr=1-4&keywords=lamp+cord

I didn't check the voltage/amps rating on the socket but just verify that it accommodates 120v, amps will be under a half, I'd imagine. That little light should be pretty bright but if you shop around a little you'll see there are thousands of these DIY bulbs and sockets on Amazon and ebay.

Link: http://amzn.com/B00DHNX4ZK

does the record player actually care of the AC is the correct polarity?

you can buy a replacement polarized appliance cord and most box stores, or amazon, such as :

https://www.amazon.com/GE-54435-Replacement-Polarized-Prong/dp/B000UTE278/

you'll need to open the record player and hope that the circuit board (if it has one) has tagged which connection point is Load and which is Neutral.

the ribbed or striped conductor on the cord is for the neutral, also, that's the side with the larger prong.

you'll desolder the existing cord, and solder on the new one.

Here's what I used to do my kitchen. Works with Hue can be cut to length and comes out nice and clean. Did do some soldering but you can probably get away not having to. I used 1 ballast and ran a wire thru the attic instead of using 2 ballasts but that was just to save on cost.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZ6CB2D/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MU76VMY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JKPLQW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K6ZJVP4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016XJS5B2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J4HI746/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ML3Q2ME/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not really familiar with the van in question but are there any interior lights at the moment? You could always take off whatever covers the current light and hook up the LED strip to that. Very recently I hooked up few sections of an LED strip to my Camry by using the dome light circuit and took apart some of the interiors to route the wires around the car. I ended up putting light strips on the footwells of the front and rear seats, the dome light was replaced with some LEDs and there was a strip along the rear windshield. I used a 5050 LED strip and ~50ft of wires.It seems light the tools you have would already work, you would just need to find a circuit to connect to.

Travel adapter+https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KKLMKW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1+
Usb block of your choice

Except the product actually exists - I have some that I use for connecting a series of wall warts to a power strip. (They power effects pedals for my guitar rig.)

Well you wouldn't want to plug anything into the recepticle because it's a switched receptacle. If you were to put a receptacle into the junction box and put a cord into the light ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0022NH7G8/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?qid=1451423201&sr=8-11&pi=AC_SX118_SY170_QL70&keywords=Power+cord ) and use a cord grip like this one ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005GDFLAU/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?qid=1451420633&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX118_SY170_QL70&keywords=cord+fitting&dpPl=1&dpID=51msffi-e4L&ref=plSrch ) to hold the cord in there splice it up and your done. Another option is you could just take a piece of romex from the junction box into the light with 2 romex connectors and boom your done.

>Materials:

4" x 24" x 3/8" (not 100% sure about the thickness) basswood for the sides.

1 large 3/8" (again, dont quite remember the thickness) sheet of plywood, at LEAST 12" x 20" for the outside triangles.

Light stand and wire

Two translucent yellow acrylic sheets Can be found elsewhere, but I couldnt find em around me.

>Tools:

Dremel Rotary tool with a number of attachments.

Scroll saw with different thickness of blades.

Epoxy.

Wood Stain

>Steps

Cut the wood to size with a scroll saw, print out your design on a piece of paper, and outline it through the paper with a sharp pen to indent it onto the wood, then draw with a pencil on the actual wood with your design. Use the rotary tool to cut holes into each section large enough to fit your scrolls saw blade through, fit blade through on scroll saw and carefully cut out each section (by far the longest process, took me about 7 hours.) Then sand your wood, cut your acrylic to size, stain it all, and glue together.

That's a pretty simple overview of it, but it kinda covers it for the most part. There are probably a lot more efficient and accurate ways to do a lot of it, but it was my first project and I used tools available to me, and thats how I went about it.

I used this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006U1O978/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 with this power cord - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0022NH7G8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.


I only paid $38 or something for the Evovle unit 2 years ago.

I just got a 12/3 from Amazon. It just arrived, so I was feeling better, but then it's pretty inexpensive compared to what you're saying, so I'm a little concerned again, haha. The reviews seemed good, what do you think?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002HWRS6S/ref=sr_ph_1?qid=1464045585&sr=sr-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=50+foot+12+3+extension+cord

Someone asked the same question above, so I just copied and paste the answer below. Also, consider getting a small extension cord, like one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105297-16AWG-Power-Extension/dp/B006VK7X1C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542440284&sr=8-3&keywords=short+extension+cord

https://www.amazon.com/Cablelera-Power-Extension-Splitter-ZWACPQAG-14/dp/B00FRODUR4/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1542440284&sr=8-9&keywords=short+extension+cord,


Product Height 2.5 inches

Product Width 1.4 inches

Product Depth 5 inches

Product Weight 0.35 pounds

Get the shortest cord possible. Maybe like this

Are your outlets grounded? if so, its not hard to swap out an outlet for GFCI (and you should anyway for outlets near water like the bathroom or kitchen). Alternatively, pick up an in-line GFCI pigtail

I got a 50 ft 50amp RV cord and used it a couple times at 6.6kW. Overkill for a Leaf, hoping I can fully use it with the Gen3.

Example: 50 ft 12/3 or 100 ft 12/3

12 gauge, 3 conductors.. Lop the ends off, join the conductors in the right manner.. not sure what length you're wanting, but it's an option.

EDIT: Less expensive option 100 ft 14/3 - the document also says they started with 14 AWG, so it will probably work fine for you.

• Belkin Essential
  
• GM Modular
  
• Goldmedal Curve Plus
  
  There are different models depending on number of sockets as well.

I just got a couple of these since my modem and router are in kind of an inconvenient location to get to. Simple and cheap.

> -Why is the cord on a bonavita kettle so short!

the cord is embarrassingly short and they should be ashamed of themselves for it.

I don't know if it's the same model, but I got my dad one of these to use for his bonavita.

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Power-Extension-Outlet-Listed/dp/B00CDVX330/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1542557292&sr=8-5&keywords=mini+extension+cord+3+prong

So, I have only one socket in the room, I want to extend it to the other corner and have sockets near my bed as well. There is a 24 inch monitor and laptop that would be on the daisy chain. I am aware of power strips not being good at handling large currents.

I was interested in one from Belkin and this was rated high and popular (is listed at 10A) though I am unaware of the company. Should I go for the 4 socket Belkin?

Okay thank you. I think I understand.

What do you think of the device being sold to accomplish this? I posted it above, it's this? There's a few of that sort of thing that I found...

Thanks so much!

Would it be as simple as I get this extension then just strip the end of the wires and split it in something like these connectors or would it not hold the wires in it?

Thank you, very helpful! Sounds like it may be best to charge from a standard 110 outlet at 3-4 miles per hour of charge, and swap out the dryer plug if I ever need some fast charging. Thanks for finding the name of the plug too, it was driving me crazy!

I'm a bit confused about "adapting from 10-30 to 14-50 is not allowed", wouldn't I be able to use something like this as an adapter? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VWGVQDF/ref=asc_df_B06VWGVQDF5012319/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B06VWGVQDF&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198064502357&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6825028765288310841&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9060414&hvtargid=pla-319132250762

Thanks again for the help, really appreciate it.

Edit: With the adapter listed above, I would then buy two of these extension cords. That should work, right? https://www.amazon.com/NU-CORD-94561E-50-Feet-50-Amp-Extension/dp/B005GXQDHU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496441052&sr=8-2&keywords=nema+14-50+extension+cord

you can also use one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/Hot-Headz-Extension-Safety-Resistant/dp/B004IPZ6WU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539528666&sr=8-3&keywords=Hot+Headz+Extension+Cord

Ive been using this since the IQ was out have not had a problem.

Youre welcome. You had the right idea of getting outlets close to the tables, but it does cause problems when pushing nightstands into the wall.

You could still utilize the oulets and get the nightstands close to the wall though. The best thing to do is use these (sorry for long link... I forgot how to shorten it with linked text):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KKLMKW/ref=asc_df_B000KKLMKW5075252/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B000KKLMKW&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167139094796&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7075833547891463428&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031539&hvtargid=pla-500526559152

The above plug will allow you to get the nightstands closer to the wall. It's not perfect, but better than a regular plug.

The other thing you can do is cut a hole in the back of the nightstand where the plug is protruding. This is actually the best way to get the nightstand the closest to the wall possible. The only thing you have to make sure of is that the plugs would not interfere with drawers in the nightstand, or that they would not be badly visible from the front if the nightstand has an opening where the plug will protrude through it.

https://www.amazon.com/26020008-6-Shockshield-Protected-Tri-Cord-3-Outlets/dp/B000HHQIK2/ref=asc_df_B000HHQIK2

Yeah, about that... Turns out there's a nest of unfriendly flying insects that I need to take care of to get a front-on shot of it. This is about as good as I can do for the moment.

Here's a side shot of the adapter:
https://imgur.com/a/joAimaC

Here's the cord cover I used:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004IPZ6WU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_T5eJBbXX36YTN

I'm gonna let you into a little [secret] (https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105297-16AWG-Power-Extension/dp/B006VK7X1C/ref=sr_1_48?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1521944309&sr=1-48&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A7065059011%2Cp_36%3A1253528011)

Try a new lightbulb? I've had bad bulbs that lasted 10 minutes...

Otherwise, take a cheap extension cord , cut off the end, wire it in to the cable leading to the fixture (you'll have to remove the switch), and see if the light fixture will light by plugging into a working receptacle. If so, then you know your problem is with the switches.