(Part 2) Best home automation devices according to redditors
We found 569 Reddit comments discussing the best home automation devices. We ranked the 115 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
The true cost of this thing includes paying for a plumber to install it, unless you can turn off the water mains from the city/county and are comfortable cutting open the main supply pipe to your house. There are z-wave alternatives that are substantially cheaper and do not require a plumber - for example this one. This controller (and there are others very similar to it) mount on a levered ball valve on the outside and have a z-wave controlled motor that moves the lever between open and closed positions. When paired with Aeotec flood sensors, you can assemble a system that's much cheaper than the Leaksmart at the discounted price and does the same job.
Those are the smart sensors, They control the 3 exhaust fans per temp readings. They also act as motion sensors and turn the lights on in the room when I walk in. The white boxes on the right wall are 240v smart switches that control power on/off from my phone manually or triggered by scene i.e. temp to high, or ping failure reboot rig. Energy monitor installed inside breaker box also smart home (Z-Wave). All is controlled by a Vera smart home controller. Links below.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0151Z8ZQY?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MBIRF5W?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XD8WZX6?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BX9P89Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519912082&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=vera+plus+controller&dpPl=1&dpID=31jWnlwJITL&ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007ZU69DU?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd
Vera + Schlage
Close as you're going to get. Everything but bluetooth unlock.
You don't even need that. You can get a Z-wave button pusher, setup an automation for it using a suitable home hub, and then simply have the Echo Dot activate the button when it hears "Computer -- tea, Earl Grey, hot".
2 options I’ve seen:
Allows you to send commands to the relays and detect button press through MQTT (no need for Wink)
Then load up a browser and run a dashboard view on the screen (like HomeAssistant) to control other stuff around the house. Like brilliant.tech but You already have the hardware)
https://www.makesbymike.com/
If you do away with the wink relay, you’ll want something inside the wall box to control whatever you had before. I used a dual in-wall Zwave controller like this:
https://www.amazon.com/ENERWAVE-NEUTRAL-REQUIRED-ZWN-RSM2-PLUS-Version/dp/B07KQMGH7X
And again as above you can build a dashboard, except with the fireHD tablet you can use Alexa, and see your cameras. Someone wrote a post here about using HA:
https://community.home-assistant.io/t/wall-panel-fire-8-hd-tablet-lovelace-cch-mqtt-alarm-and-video-doorbell-on-ring/133561
HTH
So I'm a big fan of starting with a bigger picture and going smaller. You need a hub that will control your smart home. Smartthings is a great choice for someone who doesn't necessarily want to tinker, but wants to do some more advanced things. It's inexpensive, can be purchased nearly anywhere, offers iOS and Android apps, and ties in with Google Assistant and Amazon Alexa. HomeAssistant, HomeSeer, and others are great systems for tinkerers but require a certain mindset and knowhow to operate.
What's great about smartthings is it has z-wave and zigbee radios built into it, so you can expand your house with all kinds of sensors. For example, I have Smartthings and sensors on my doors, windows, outlets I control, and much more. Here is the door and window sensors I use to be notified as soon as my doors open and close, here is the outlets I use to control my lamp and cameras, and I also have lights hooked up that I can control as well.
I use my smartthings hub as a makeshift security systems. So whenever a door or window opens, I get notified. If my front door opens between 9 PM and midnight, my kitchen light turns on. If any window or door opens between midnight and 6 AM, all of my lights come on. I also have two indoor cameras hooked up to z-wave outlets (listed above) which I have on between certain hours (when we're not home), so I can easily see if someone comes in or doesn't stop by (ahem, maintenance).
To get started with the front door sensor, you're looking at around $100 with a hub and sensor. You can then expand easily, and trust me, you'll want to. You could even get this smartthings starter kit and secure more than just your front door
Not cheap but lots of uses beyond this. Also it does work with rocker switches:
MicroBot Push (2nd Generation) - Wireless Robotic Button Pusher for Smart Home Automation (Platinum White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071V7Y864/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_N0lFzbR507G5C
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PFGJZM8/?utm_source=facebook&utm_medium=post&utm_campaign=veraedge_amzn_excl
I did this with my range hood a couple of months ago. I used an aeotec micro switch. It ticks every requirement you have.
I use a Neurio energy monitor. It does a decent job of tracking energy consumption (including my MS). There are other home energy monitors on the market that I haven't tried.
Note: Neurio "Intelligent Home Monitor" is additional add-on on top of the hardware.
Edit: link added.
Neurio W1-HEM Home Energy Monitor (North American Version) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0149EE5KS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Bj1IzbJEVFZCH
Three hardware solutions that I know of:
(This links to your smartphone via BTLE.)
More info [here.] (http://flic.io)
(This also links to your smartphone via BTLE.)
More info [here.] (http://www.satechi.net/index.php/satechi-bluetooth-button-series-media-button)
This is the one I have:
Samsung SmartThings Motion Sensor [GP-U999SJVLBAA] with Slim Design and Optional Automated Alerts - Zigbee – White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F8ZHBLS
If I have the app open looking at the events it's basically instantaneous. Definitely fast than the older gen one I have. Hard to give a good estimate on responsiveness for turning on lights because I have Caseta lights which are unfortunately cloud to cloud connected with SmartThings and not local, but even that is still fast enough for me. If you have zwave switches I've heard it'll do that processing on the hub itself so it should be pretty snappy.
Sorry if the formatting is weird, I'm on mobile.
This will dial it in... Sense Energy Monitor: Electricity Usage Monitor To Track Energy Usage in Real Time. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075K6PHJ9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OmhyCbR0Y1VRR
Smartthings motion sensor also does temp. You could add an automation that turns of the heat if a temp is equal or below a set temp or same for AC. It's battery powered so you could put it anywhere. It would require a smartthings environment.
Motion Sensor
Is there a situation where you'd want to turn on only lifx lights? If not, one option would be to setup an insteon remote to control the appropriate combinations of insteon lights. Then, you could use Home Assistant with the Insteon component to watch for lights to turn on, and turn on the corresponding lifx bulbs. It may not quite be instant, but it should happen within a few seconds.
If you sometimes want lifx only, and sometimes a combination, then you could use something like this with Home Assistant and a zwave dongle. Pressing a button will trigger a scene in HASS, which will then communicate as appropriate to you lifx bulbs and insteon switches.
If you don't have a SmartThings hub, you can pick up a starter kit (with the version 2 hub...still good it's what I use) for $99 on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-F-MN-Monitoring-White/dp/B076HFQ2B9/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540932558&sr=8-3&keywords=smartthings+starter+kit
The kit contains:
For a deadbolt, I use Kwikset 910 Z-Wave:
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-F-MN-Monitoring-White/dp/B076HFQ2B9/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540932558&sr=8-3&keywords=smartthings+starter+kit
It's great not having to take keys out of my pocket.
Once I got into the whole smart house thing, I went "all-in" and currently have:
If you have a z-wave hub, the Hank Z-Wave button is awesome. Super long battery life, program it to do whatever you want, reasonably compact. https://www.amazon.com/Hank-Controller-HKZW-SCN01-SmartThings-handler/dp/B0799S3764
You want this:https://www.amazon.com/ENERWAVE-ZWN-RSM2-PLUS-NEUTRAL-REQUIRED-Version/dp/B07KQMGH7X/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=zwave+relay&qid=1551068633&s=gateway&sr=8-11
Manual:
http://enerwaveautomation.com/wp-content/uploads/products/zwnrsm2/ZWN-RSM2-Plus-0208160044-03.pdf
It's a little module you place inside the box (hopefully it's deep enough). You wire each of the two loads through it, then route the hot lines through the switches into the AUX1&2 inputs on the module. This way, the module can detect when you have flipped the switches and still provide local control, while connecting your your HA system.
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I was using one for a while that had a single channel, worked perfectly.
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EDIT: It's possible that this one is thicker, and maybe you can fit two single channel versions in the box if it's not deep enough. Good luck!
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EDIT2: I didn't assume the switches controlled those attached outlets- the above solution would work for both situations. But if you need to control those outlets and not switch internal wiring, you could use these, which are embedded Zwave relays in the outlets. One terminal is always on, one is switched, and there is a button on the front...
https://www.amazon.com/ENERWAVE-ZWN-RSM2-PLUS-NEUTRAL-REQUIRED-Version/dp/B07FKW42P6/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=zwave%2Brelay&qid=1551068633&s=gateway&sr=8-11&th=1
There are a few manufacturers for these, I haven't used the enerwave ones
If you want to measure at the circuit: Sense could work.
Or something cheaper like this.
Smart things starter kit is half off on amazon right now.
You’ll get a hub, two open/close sensors, motion sensor, and smart plug.
Starter Kit $129.99
This kit with the hub and door sensors: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-F-MN-Monitoring-White/dp/B076HFQ2B9/
And this light switch: https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Dimmer-ZEN22-Regular-Required/dp/B074V8PG51/
Basically every first-party Smartthings sensor is top-quality, so that's an easy place to start. Zooz is like the go-to reasonably priced switch too.
For lighting, I would recommend avoiding smart bulbs except in very certain circumstances. A smart outlet for a lamp or a smart in-wall switch for installed lights is generally the way to go.
the pebble core sounds great https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/597507018/pebble-2-time-2-and-core-an-entirely-new-3g-ultra?anchor_link=core_for_hackers#h:core-for-hackers
just need some sort of Bluetooth or wired speakers with a mic to create an always-on dot
I hope to use the buttons like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Flic-Wireless-Smart-Button-White/dp/B00ZAEOC5K?th=1
What I’d do is:
Mount a [smartthings motion sensor](Samsung SmartThings Motion Sensor [GP-U999SJVLBAA] with Slim Design and Optional Automated Alerts - Zigbee – White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F8ZHBLS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_I4JQCb7N2BE5D) underneath and towards the middle of the changing table pointed straight down. The motion sensors work best when something “breaks” their beam, so having it mounted that way allows you to move your foot underneath it and turn the lights on by way of an automation.
If the led lights aren’t smart lights, then you would need a smart plug to use with them.
https://www.amazon.com/MicroBot-Push-2nd-Generation-Automation/dp/B071V7Y864/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=microbot+push&qid=1554752827&s=gateway&sr=8-2
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The guy below had already posted one so I didn't think I needed to
I have this the ZRC-90US by Remotec. It's not a catchy name, but it is a solid 8 button scene controller that supports single, double, and long press once you mess with the zwave files a bit.
If you have an indoor junction box, then you avoid environmental issues and locate the switch indoors. There are a few high current solutions - Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch (40 amps) is one, Linear makes another. You can control it with an outdoor Z-Wave temperature sensor.
Yep! Broadlink RM Pro $38
https://smile.amazon.com/BroadLink-Automation-Universal-Compatible-Smartphones/dp/B0742CXGHY/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1510083258&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=broadlink%2Brm%2Bpro%2B2017&th=1
Aeotec by Aeon Labs ZW130-A WallMote Quad
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCEJAOD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xLhIAb01C1JFD
ZRC-90US, BW8510US, by Remotec, Cert ID: ZC10-15100007
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016YTTIVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MMhIAbWNA3TM2
My favorite in terms of quality and ease of use are the Philips Hue strips. They were on sale for $50 last year.
But I bought this wifi led controller to test with home assistant since I am going to install about 10M of LED strips and need something cheaper: https://www.amazon.com/LED-Controller-WIFI-Wireless-Smartphone/dp/B0746654D5
i actually bought it from ebay for a little under $10. And you can use any basic RGB led strips. I got 5M strips for about $10 on ebay. The amazon description says the controller only works for Alexa, but this video shows someone setting it up with Google Home: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w-O6jtPJN7Q
So far the only thing that kind of bothers me is the high pitched whine it makes. If I send an On or Off command the controller makes a whine for 1 second and then becomes quiet. It will make a constant whine if I set the brightness to anything less that 100%, the loudness depends on the color. Also the 12v power supply (which was not included) makes a constant whine when its plugged in, but that could be an issue with my power supply. These issues won't be that big of a deal for me since I will be hiding the controller in the laundry room and have the strips in the hallway
Frankly, If I was you, I would connect a Z-wave water shutoff just AFTER your main manual shutoff. These things are a bit too pricey to have everywhere, nor should you need to use one everywhere.
Some Amazon links
$429 or [$129] (https://smile.amazon.com/Wireless-Z-Wave-Water-Valve-inch/dp/B006KU10ZI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1473890371&sr=8-3&keywords=zwave+water+shutoff) or $59
Looking closer, It appears that the 59 dollar one can be retrofit over a quarter-turn valve, which actually is pretty darn cheap and amazing, though I wouldn't trust it to be "sturdy" enough for permanent use or anything.
I would additionally attach one to your main natural gas / heating oil line, Again a second shutoff directly after your main manual shutoff. If ever your water heater that springs a leak, you're gonna wanna shut that off as well due to dangers of heating an empty heater. If electric, that means a relay or something to shut that off.
I honestly cannot think of automation that would be so necessary other than a flood sensor. Some of these ads you see on TV where the kids left the sink running are frankly ridiculous and unnecessary.
Edit: Wow, I only read the headline, thought you were only looking for plumbing advice. Light switches are a must, everything else is a good idea, but remember if you don't have an idea for it right now, its kind of wasted money. There are all kinds of things that aren't frankly necessary. (As in a outlet that can be toggled via zwave. If its gonna be on all the time, there's no need for it.)
I found Axis Gear on sale for $165. it's like 80 bucks off
When I bvought mine on sale last year it was $200
https://www.amazon.com/AXIS-Gear-Automation-Powered-Bluetooth/dp/B07KSM8QY3/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2L36CTAML3G9U&keywords=axis+gear&qid=1563211747&s=gateway&sprefix=axis+gear%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-2
Yes. You need three things:
An Apple TV 4k, iPad, or HomePod
One of these:
MyQ Smart Garage Door Opener Chamberlain MYQ-G0301 - Wireless & Wi-Fi enabled Garage Hub with Smartphone Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075H7Z5L8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FMbsDbWY8DV71
And either need to run homebridge 24x7 somewhere in your house on a computer, or get this:
LiftMaster MYQ 819LMB MyQ Home Bridge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RQVSY7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HObsDb3PB0G0S
There's a system called Vera that works decently well. There's an app, several devices by several manufacturers, etc. It does push notifications for my home's door/window sensors and motion alarms. There seem to be doorbells that interface with vera, which seemingly would do the trick.
On that note, this seems to fit what you're after, you just need to have it connect to a z-wave or other home automation controller like one of Vera's. Hope that helps.
There’s a separate item to make the my q
[homebridge addon](LiftMaster MYQ 819LMB MyQ Home Bridge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RQVSY7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RCXtDbZPR8G2V)
Well, there’s actually a bridge that Chamberlain sells that makes that hub HomeKit compatible. I believe it’s around $80US. I just already had Homebridge up and running for other devices around the house.
Edit: LiftMaster MYQ 819LMB MyQ Home Bridge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RQVSY7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9CXtDb3978B62
Maybe this could work somehow? https://www.amazon.com/MicroBot-Push-Wireless-Automation-Platinum/dp/B071V7Y864?th=1
IFTTT integration so you could use with ST
I ran across these the other day. A bit pricey though
AXIS Gear - Smart Blinds For Your Smart Home - DIY Home Automation - Powered by ZigBee + Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KSM8QY3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TXi2DbYCWEGFG
Welcome to Samsung Smart Things
Here is an amazon product link.
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-GP-U999SJVLBAA-Optional-Automated/dp/B07F8ZHBLS/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=smartthings+motion+sensor&qid=1569955895&s=gateway&sr=8-1
I connected the live and load wires to an Aeotec Z Wave Micro Switch. I could have directly capped the two wires but I wanted the ability to turn it off and on with my zwave hub's app if I wanted to.
Then I removed the toggle switch and replaced it with a toggle plastic adapter plate.
I then installed a screwless 3 gang plate. I first tried a regular screwed in plate but the screw was getting in the way of centering the POP (OCD).
And then I just attached the Pop with a double sided tape.
I will also try to use a Flic. I think it may look nicer because it's smaller. I have an old android phone that I'll use as a dedicated Flic "Hub".
Disclaimer: I did this with the guidance of my electrician and do not recommend you doing it yourself without an electrician or without referring to your local code.
I use in wall micro relays such as this.
They wire into the circuit and use an existing regular wall switch to trigger it.
Is there a reason you'd prefer that controller over this?
I've got 4 of these Hank Z-Wave Plus One Button Scene Controllers. Love 'em. Rechargeable, goes 1 year between charges.
https://www.amazon.com/Hank-Controller-HKZW-SCN01-SmartThings-handler/dp/B0799S3764
Perhaps that'd work but it wouldn't be very accessible if hidden behind the Hue dimmer wallplate.
Maybe a Zwave micro relay would be preferred? Of course a Zwave hub would be required though.
Micro Switch G2, DSC26103-ZWUS, by Aeotec with pigtails (1-pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y23DYWV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mqTPzb7CD6393
Too perfect??? Read the reviews on different shops... A lot of people are complaining that it is not pairing, bad batteries, no support, etc.
On amazon 38% gave it a 1-star, 12% gave it a 2 star. So 50% is unhappy with it... http://www.amazon.com/Flic-Wireless-Smart-Button-White/dp/B00ZAEOC5K
Does it have a remote? https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Controller-Hand-free-Compatible-Controlled/dp/B07L9VV9N8/ Might work then.
Presumably it is because your older MyQ is not WiFi enabled. I have two 2015 installed Liftmaster MyQ openers and purchased this MyQ Home Bridge and now I can operate and check the status of my openers from my Apple devices.
Editing to add: Native Homekit support through above linked device, homebridge not needed.
I spent a while yesterday looking at smart buttons and think I've settled on getting a couple of those. I'll place one in the basement by the door and the other I'll either just give to my FIL to put in his car or fasten it to something by the garage door. I'm going to program the lights to automatically turn off after 10 minutes or so as well.
This is the button that I'll probably end up getting, unless I can find something else with good reviews and cheaper. (I'm not sure how I feel about ordering a Xiaomi.)
I use the SmartThings branded one (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F8ZHBLS) with no issues at all. You can't get much more "native" than that! It can also operate and be a part of local automations.
There is a little device that pushes a button based on Bluetooth. https://microbot.is/push/ I use it to warm up my Breville Barista Express in the morning. It works pretty well...
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Here is the Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/MicroBot-Push-2nd-Generation-Automation/dp/B071V7Y864/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=microbot+push&qid=1554752827&s=gateway&sr=8-2
Hi,
If you want a primer on current security camera technology, my guide to IP cameras may help. As you will find though, I am not one who recommends storing everything on the cloud.
For a doorbell, if you want a ready to use device, consider the Ring Doorbell. If you are happy to go the DIY home automation route, you can use a standard bell linked to a home automation gateway device which can then pretty much trigger any event/action you need. Eg. Play a sound through your home theatre or SONOS, take a picture from the security camera and email to your phone, send a push notification to your phone, automatically play a recorded greeting etc. An example of a gateway device is the Vera Plus.
In fact this is going to be my next project!
Daniel
ENERWAVE Z-Wave Plus Dual Relay Switch Module, Z-Wave Relay
Used it to give circa 1990 fan/light smart capabilities, as-well-as voice control via Amazon Echo. Used Westinghouse 7727000 48-Inch Down Rod Wire Extension Kit to extend leads.
I got this for around $35 LINEAR FS20Z-1 Z-Wave 20-amp Isolated Contact Fixture Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EPTMFH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gdP7Ab0GT8M0T
It's a bit of a DIY setup, soldered it to an old PC cable I had. Plugged it into the same outlet as the garage door opener and mounted it on the same bracket. Also got an Ecolink garage door tilt sensor for about $24.
I don't use location services, not sure how reliable or quick to respond they are. But my setup is great for auto closing at night, and sending me actionable push notifications if I leave it open during the day. Also made an IFTTT widget so I can open with my watch.
Has anybody seen one of these in action?
https://www.amazon.com/Sense-Home-Energy-Monitor-electricity/dp/B075K6PHJ9/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1524696643&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=energy+monitor&psc=1
I actually use Yale locks(https://amzn.com/B00HS1O77G). If you use the one with a key(https://amzn.com/B005NLKRAO), They are re-keyable to match either Schlage or Kwikset locks to match the rest of the house. Also, you can add either Z-Wave or ZigBee, also to better fit the rest of your house. The Geo-fencing is a feature that comes with the Vera Plus and its app.(https://amzn.com/B01BX9P89Y)
They did fit under my cabinets without showing, but I do have a small molding around the bottom of my upper cabinets. I see some people on Amazon complained about them breaking, but I've had these installed for about a year without breakage yet. I also soldered my connections, so I don't know if that helped at all.
I also put some additional lights on the top of my cabinets with that power supply, but I used the an RGB LED strip and this doohickey: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0746654D5/ref=asc_df_B0746654D55377971
The sole purpose of those lights is so that I can voice activate a "red alert" in my kitchen. I know its dumb, but it still cracks me up. I'm kinda simple.
I didn't see anything either with a quick look.
Not sure if this would fit into your outlet box, but there are "contact modules" that are 20A. You probably would have to have a double gang box with a blanking plate over the controller.
https://www.amazon.com/LINEAR-FS20Z-1-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00EPTMFH8/ref=sr_1_58?ie=UTF8&qid=1500953560&sr=8-58&keywords=z-wave+outlet
This looks similar to what I am thinking you would do. https://community.smartthings.com/t/garage-zwave-relay-switch/1176
I wanted to do the same. I have not tried this yet, but this looks to be the simplest solution. A regular blinker bulb to a z-wave switch set to go on with alarm.
Sunlite A19/5W/BL/WW LED A19 Blinker Light Bulb 5W Medium (E26) Base, 3000K Warm White
https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-80204-A19-Blinker-5W/dp/B00ULSPT3O/
Connected to a compatible z-wave switch or one of these.
Micro Switch G2, DSC26103-ZWUS,
https://www.amazon.com/Switch-DSC26103-ZWUS-Aeotec-pigtails-1-pack/dp/B06Y23DYWV/
> it's an open plan living/dining/kitchen
Yeah. My dad lived in a house like that for a while. It was awful. Have dinner, put dishes in dishwasher and then proceed to be entirely unable to hear the TV for the next hour. It's not privacy so much as just being obnoxiously noisy.
But, back to the lights... One option might be to put in zwave controlled mini-switches behind the cans, and put up a control panel instead of switches, but you're really back in the realm of "this could really bite you in the ass in 20 years" since the wiring won't be standard. For today tho, something like this would work in conjunction with a control panel "switch" https://www.amazon.com/Switch-DSC26103-ZWUS-Aeotec-pigtails-1-pack/dp/B06Y23DYWV
Either that, or smart-bulbs maybe, but then you're dealing with the "no no no, don't turn that wall switch off or the bulbs won't work!!" issues...
It actually goes by different names on Amazon (and I'm sure on ebay/AliExpress, too.)
The ones I found on Amazon go by these names:
MOES WiFi Smart IR Remote Controller
YTF Wifi Smart IR Control Hub
Larkkey Smart IR Universal Control
However, it is my understanding they are all the same re-branded Tuya IR controller (blaster.)
The app is free but you have to buy a SmartThings hub as the start. I suggest getting a kit LIKE THIS as a starter as it includes several other things too. If you have an Echo or Google Home assistant you can also tie those in to control the thermostat by voice too.
a Combo device sounds awesome, and i hope i can find something like that. What about a Hubitate Elevation.
Yes my house has Neutral Wires.
Good to know on the Nest, as i had seriously thought about sensors, smoke alarms, and door bell from them. Looks like i will be staying away.
Like an idiot, I wrote everything out below before I fully read your post. I'm not sure if a 50% would be possible with the below set up but it would make the shades 'smart'.
This should help you out. I'm in the process of testing everything out for my basement (working on finishing it now). I already received the Broadlink RM Pro and got it working with some remote control outlets. When I receive the shade motor, I'll let you know if I have any difficulties. Also, this video should help with some difficulties people have with the Broadlink.
LED parts are SO EASY to make, get a decent PCB and a RGB controller and you have so many possibilities.
LED boards: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=RGB+aluminum+PCB
LED Controller: https://www.amazon.com/LED-Controller-WIFI-Wireless-Smartphone/dp/B0746654D5/
Most 2.1mm power supplies will work with this, just need more power for more LEDs :)
LiftMaster MYQ 819LMB MyQ Home Bridge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RQVSY7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bqy1Cb7R9DK00
I've been trying to find something like this for my apartment, but the one in the link doesn't quite fit my needs. Ideally I would find a similar product (smart blinds motor that can be fed a beaded metal chain) that would (1) be controllable via Amazon Echo, (2) work faster/more quietly, and (3) be cheaper. Echo compatibility is a must - the rest would just be gravy.
https://www.amazon.com/LINEAR-FS20Z-1-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00EPTMFH8
This is an example of what you could use. I don't know the amperage of your device, so I went big. There are other brands and models. This will allow you to turn it off and on and set timers, but you will not be able to control the temp output.
You might want to check out [this] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0149EE5KS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i9FLzbAMQ437B)
Power draw is roughly 3.4 kWh according to my solar system's monitoring
There's a few out there. Neurio and Curb are two that I've seen on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015IY0Z3E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_CU8FybW6S8K20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0149EE5KS/ref=pd_aw_sim_60_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WN6SSA8YKR2B0Y6JTZXY&dpPl=1&dpID=81DBKNpueWL
I have a mechanical pool pump
Timer too, I solved this by setting the mechanical timer to always on, and used one of these 20A switches in my fuse box closer to my property and zwave network to control pool pump on off via HA.
Saved messing about with zwave further from the home and fitting electronics into existing pool pump enclosure etc
https://www.amazon.com/LINEAR-FS20Z-1-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00EPTMFH8/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmrnull_1?crid=UEOOJ7S10THB&keywords=zwave+20+amp+switch&qid=1550839830&s=gateway&sprefix=zwave+20&sr=8-1-fkmrnull
These can definitely be found cheaper than this link so shop around.
Any reasons why you chose this over Neurio? https://www.amazon.com/Neurio-W1-HEM-Monitor-American-Version/dp/B0149EE5KS/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_t#nav-search-keywords
Correct - the [819LMB](LiftMaster MYQ 819LMB MyQ Home Bridge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RQVSY7).
I went from a Vera3 to a Homeseer SEL Pro. (An SEL is essentially a $$250-$300 nuc running Linux with the HS3 software preinstalled)
HomeSeer is an incredibly easy to set up system. The HS3 event system is menu driven and very capable. HS is about the only pre-built system with support for more 3rd party devices than Vera. I was able to recreate a lot of Vera scenes (with quite a bit of Luup script and Pleg) using the HS menu system in just a few hours.
An HS Zee2 ($200) is only a little more money than a VeraPlus ($150), but it has 4x the ram and close to 8x the CPU power. (Veras are essentially router hardware running OpenWRT with extra radios. A Pi3 has more cpu cores that are clocked faster, more ram, etc)
Having said that, Amazon has the Plus on sale for $110 right now, which is a really good price.
https://www.amazon.com/Vera-Control-VeraPlus-US-Smart-Controller/dp/B01BX9P89Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536373058&sr=8-1&keywords=veraplus
I recently bought and installed this relatively cheap zwave water valve controller. It's been installed for less than a week, but seems pretty solid. I've been considering using another one to automate a chicken coop door, and I think it would be effective to open and close a pet crate, though you'll have to figure out some modifications to the crate or build a linkage system yourself - could be a fun project!
I actually use VBScript at my job, so that's a plus in my book. I DO wish Homeseer was just linux based, so I didn't have to burn a Windows VM, but you can't win 'em all.
Here's a question for you, I've got a remote, and I'm trying to make the buttons do things...
Here's some snaps.
Now, I've sort of got it working by using events, but it's not exactly the most reliable, or speediest (even with three devices in the network right now, all within a meter of each other.) Is there some better spot for If/Then logic? Like "Motion sensor says there's motion, run this event"?
I’m in the same situation as you but I have 8 minis throughout the house.
I’m leaning towards IR blaster like this one with temp controls in each room.
I’m curious, why are you avoiding the cloud connections?
You need a hub too. For Zwave, you can use a vera unit but there are others. https://www.amazon.com/Vera-Control-VeraEdge-American-Application/dp/B00PFGJZM8
Zooz Z-Wave Plus Gas/Water Valve Control ZAC03 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AKCPEHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ToLqxbYBT7A47
I found this if anyone else is looking for something like this.
Hey,
Thanks for the reply.
I've been looking at getting broadlink remote for a while:
https://www.amazon.com/BroadLink-Automation-Universal-Compatible-Smartphones/dp/B0742CXGHY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=broadlink+rm+pro&qid=1567927324&s=gateway&sprefix=broadlink&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&smid=A3SP0XK4HMPKQQ&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE2TFBJUFpHRFpTTlomZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAwMDM1NzhTNUVNSTNTVFhFM1EmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDI5NDY4MDNBUUFLRTI2NkhYOVgmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
Can't find anything much better for price but open to suggestions.
Just not sure how to include switcher in a sequence. I think it would be weak link in the system.
I wish there were smarter switchers out there.
I've got the same problem in my main room. I hooked up a Flic to a couple LifX bulbs and it works great. (Have the Flic connected to my previous smartphone that I leave plugged in the closet on wifi)
https://www.amazon.com/Flic-Wireless-Smart-Button-White/dp/B00ZAEOC5K
https://www.amazon.com/LIFX-Adjustable-Multicolor-Dimmable-Required/dp/B01KY02MS8/ref=sr_1_1?s=boost&srs=12034488011&ie=UTF8&qid=1486764495&sr=1-1&keywords=lifx