Best interconnect sockets according to redditors

I wanted to show off an arcade cabinet that my brother in-law and I built.

Imgur Gallery

We designed the cabinet in 3d to make sure everything would fit. Then cut out everything using a CNC router. We used wood glue and wood putty to put everything together. For the monitor we used a Dell 17" (we had lying around) mounted portrait. The guts of the arcade are

• Internal PC fans used for cooling. We did this because the monitor would get a little warm after playing. Plus it couldn't hurt. Not too loud either.
  
• Speakers are from an old kiosk that we were throwing away at work. I did look at some other solutions but since I already had them and they were powered, we decided on using them. It also helped that the size matched the PC fans so the hole pattern would look nice on the side
  
• Buttons and Joysticks were purchased from [Amazon].(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WDQWK5M/)
  
• We used a Raspberry Pi 3 purchased from Amazon.
  
• For power, we took a power strip and removed the plug and bought (this power socket)[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/] from Amazon. Soldered the connections from the power strip to the power socket.
  
• Still waiting on the custom piece of tempered glass that will go on the top.
  
• It's got 2 coats of stain and a couple of coats of polyurethane to protect the wood.
  
  In all it took us a couple of weeks to design in 3D. My brother in-law did all this work. He also cut out everything and assembled the shell. I did all the internal wiring and software side of things. It is running RetroPie 4.0.2. The only really PITA is that this is a cocktail arcade. Most if not all the games needed a custom shader to correctly implement the rotation and dual flipped screens. A big shout out to hunterk from (libretro.com)[http://libretro.com] forums for helping me with this. It turns out that NES, SNES, Arcade, etc... needed their own shader to correctly display the image to both users. Also, the mame emulator has the ability on some 2 player games, to set cocktail mode. That way, when it is the 2 players turn, the screen auto rotates so they can play on their side.
  
  We were pretty impressed with ourselves when we finished. We built it to give away at a foundation raffle a couple of weeks ago and the winner was very excited to win it.
  
  I'll be glad to answer any questions you guys/girls have about the build. I plan on putting the glsl shaders on my github so others using the RetroPie OS in cocktail mode can use them.

Mount your powerstrip on top, route the wiring into the underside of the top and route it forward, then mount a low profile surface mount switch on the underside of the top so you can just open the drawer and turn it on and off, you can then route it out the back of the box with just a cord and a plug or you can mount an recessed male plug on the back of the box that you can plug a cord into.

I used an IEC plug for the back of my powerbank project and was pretty happy with how it turned out. I used a locking IEC cord to come out of it which I can put a twist lock plug on for cord drops, etc.

As requested:


Bartop kit - $139.99 link


Buttons - $66 link


Raspberry Pi 3 - $35 link


Raspberry Pi Case - $7.95 link


Power Recpetical - $5.99 link


USB Hub - $11.99 - linl


Zip Ties for cable management - $5.98 - link


External USB Ports - $11.90 link


Velcro Pads for mounting speakers and Raspberry Pi case - $2.98 link


64 gb SD Card - $24.88 link


HDMI to VGA adapter - $7.99 link


20 ft of 3/4 inch t-molding - $6.99 link


Total cost so far including shipping - $361.13

I just spent the last week buying and printing upgrades for my new A8... I'm also new to 3D printing. Its been printing great so far.

Purchased;
Mosfet: $10 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XP4YZ9N
GT2 Belts: $9 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F0G4144
30A PSU: $20 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/
Power Socket w/ Switch & Fuse: $5 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK
Printed;
Extruder Buton: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1935151
T Corner: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1672959
Anti Z Wobble: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1858435
Y Belt Tensioner: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2149867
X Belt Tensioner: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2354736
Z Endstop Fine Adjustment: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1776429

You seem to be misunderstanding a few things, so it'll be easier just to give you low down.

First, why do you want to switch power supplies? This is definitely an "upgrade", but unless your power supply is broken, it isn't necessary. The psu that comes with it is sufficient, and thousands of people use it. The easiest things to do to make sure it's totally safe is to mount a fan on it (if your model doesn't already have a fan), and attach a fused socket.

Adding mosfets have nothing to do with the amount of power drawn from your PSU. Without a mosfet, what happens is power goes from your PSU to your mainboard, to a mosfet on the board, to the connector on the board, to your hotbed. The on board mosfet and onboard connector are points of failure.

When people "add a mosfet" what they're doing is separating the power. Instead of PSU->Board->board mosfet->Connector->Hotbed, it goes PSU->Off board mosfet->Hotbed.

This allieviates heat and failure points on your board. You use the wires you would be connecting to your board as basically trigger wires, attaching them to the input of the mosfet board, and then the mosfet acts as a relay and the power basically flows straight from your psu to your hotbed.

Also, do not add a mosfet to your hotend. Anyone who tells you to do so doesn't know what they're talking about. Your hotend only draws 3 amps, and it may cause temperature fluctuation by design. It won't help anything, and can only make things worse.

You do want a mosfet for the hotbed though, which draws about 11 amps cold, 9 amps hot. Going back to what I was saying before, and to answer why you don't need a current limiting resistor, you don't want to limit any current. It doesn't matter if you add a mosfet or not. It's a function of ohms law. If your bed has a resistance of 1 Ohm, and you give it 12 volts, it will be drawing 12 amps. That's it. If you add a mosfet, it's job, as stated previously, is so the ~10 amps bypasses your board.

Now, if you do want to get an atx psu, 500 watts absolutely is not required. Looking back at ohms law, we see that the 1 Ohm, 12 volt, 12 amp hotbed will be drawing 144 watts. The 4 ohm, 12 volt hot end will be drawing 3 amps, and 36 watts. So your bed and hotend need 180 watts and 15 amps, your board and 5 steppers will take a few more amps, and therefore wattage. 500 is overkill, but more definitely doesn't hurt anything.

If that's the route your going, what you should do is look up the correct way to connect a mosfet, and then run your bed on a single 12 volt rail, and then run everything else on the second 12v rail.

I combined this power supply with this switch combo bolted down inside an ammo can as my charging setup and charger case. If you have a drill and a Dremel, you can easily do the same. That supply gives you 30 amps of 12 volts with three separate outputs. So you could run 3 of those Accucel chargers at max power, in theory.

depending on whats used to power this thing, but a pump at the lake sonds bigger than coffee mashine or computer. if you're in the comfort of your own home, i have some 933mhz wifi relays to plug between your wall and your appliance. they stay off after i cut the power from the wall side. sorry for the crap language, to lazy to google the acctual terms

edit: https://www.amazon.de/Brennenstuhl-Funkschalt-Set-Funksteckdosen-Handsender-Kindersicherung/dp/B001AX8QUM/ref=sr_1_4?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1487880350&sr=1-4&keywords=funksteckdosen that kind of wifi relays

Maybe replace that whole part
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ME5YAPK/ref=sr_pogo_speakers_display_on_website_1?sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65

It is a molex connector and the wires are supposed to be crimped into a pin.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71m73J5z6XL._AC_UL320_SR300,320_.jpg

Has a picture of the male and female sides. Pushing the wire back in wont work. You would need a pin pusher to remove them from the plastic housing, which will likely destroy the pins, and replacement pins to crimp on and push back in.

Its up to you but I would return the light and make them replace it.


Or you can just fix it yourself with something like this.

https://smile.amazon.com/Molex-Micro-Fit-Circuits-receptacle-Terminal/dp/B0799DSMRV/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526747774&sr=8-2&keywords=10+pin+molex+connector+female

Paracord-

This is what I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JPJDBK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You really have endless options, this store on amazon has almost 600 different paracord:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Z1QOTS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1&psc=1

​

The Wire-

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G2SWB19/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

or (These are just the 2 I bought, I am sure there are others out there)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KQ2JNLI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Bodkin-

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003WMFVRA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (To Thread the Paracord through. I stripped the ends of the 4 wire, twisted 2 and 2 together, threaded through the back hole, twisted those combined wires together, and then heat shrinked the over it with the small clear one in the box (link shown later))

​

Heat Shrink-

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KT25J42/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

USB Type A-

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G9FLG28/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

JST 2.0 ph 5 pin connector (There is way more here than you will need as it comes with 5/6/7 pin connectors. Most mice use the 5 pin)-

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077LYP4T9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Wire Strippers- As Long as they go to 30AWG, you should be good. This is just a cheap option

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D25N45F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Precision Screw Drivers-

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0747DYJJR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

A Third Hand (Not needed but will probably make your life easier)-

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076WSZLDL/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B076WSZLDL&pd_rd_w=IeORA&pf_rd_p=8a8f3917-7900-4ce8-ad90-adf0d53c0985&pd_rd_wg=SCnJH&pf_rd_r=AKZJGB4959GQT25YX2ZJ&pd_rd_r=cf871c96-9c47-11e9-99da-dd5cbc43a5ca

​

You will also need a soldering iron, and thin solder, the points to solder are small. https://www.amazon.com/Welding-Diameter-Storage-Electrical-Electronics/dp/B01N0VNNKO/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=solder&qid=1562018188&s=gateway&sr=8-5&th=1

​

Other references I used:

https://www.overclock.net/forum/375-mice/1588984-mice-cable-pin-arrangement-internal-connector-size-database.html#/topics/1588984

​

https://www.reddit.com/r/MouseReview/comments/7xtnyi/diy_how_to_make_your_own_paracord_cable_for_any/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share

​

*Unless you have replacement mouse feet, be careful removing your current set*

I just used a DC - DC buck converter and a barrel connecter. I think I still use the nintendo power brick, but I am not home so I can't recall. Specifically I used this:
https://smile.amazon.com/GERI-converter-8V-20V-Mobile-Charger/dp/B013WMGV50/
Then, I soldered that directly to a barrel connecter:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B012T9HFNY
Made it more complicated, but this way I am using a standard barrel connector and can run it on DC or AC (which means I can plug it in my van and play SNES on the screens in the back seat).

I was thinking about this last night. If you're just using one handset just use this rather than a switch on the front side of the switching power supply. It actually eliminates a component and just turns the whole system off rather than letting the supply run.

You could wire it to a switch. The maker select comes with one like this for example.

Another option is to switch the power supply to an ATX one ( Computer power supply). Then you can either way a switch to turn it off and on, or use something like a raspberry pi to turn it on through wifi which is awesome.

just to expand on my other post because I didn't have all the links at the time. Hopefully this helps others too. Feel free to add to this if there are better solutions than these.

MeanWell RT-65B power supply keep in mind that the -12v rail is only good for 500ma. check your modules in modular grid to make sure you don't need more than one of these power supplies. it's super easy to wire the power supply to a busboard but if you don't feel comfortable doing it you'll have to get something like a Zeus power supply.

Vector rails TS-600 is the best value if you are building a large case or want to build more later or if you want to sell your leftovers on Reverb or whatever. You can use these screws to attach the vector rails to the case or the spacer strips.

Rail nuts these are the square nuts that slide into the rails (only for vector rails) they require M2.5 screws 6mm is a good length unless you have some thick acrylic panels on your modules or something like that. you can alternatively use threaded strips but they will cost a little more and I'm not a fan. Not all modules have their panel holes in the appropriate place and sometimes it causes a problem because the threaded insert holes are fixed in one place.

Panel mount plug w fuse you'll need to do a little wiring on this one. match the fuse value to the power supply overall amp draw. Don't go too much over. the fuse is supposed to blow if too many amps go through the case. Having too large value of fuse defeats the purpose.

I like this busboard and they also have the cheapest (Warning! see edit) 3U sideplates although I don't see why you can make your own or maybe even go without them. MDLRCASE actually has some great values on the larger cases too if you decide not to DIY. If you are in the USA shipping is quite an expense though.EDIT: the 3U side plates do not work for vector rails, they are the wrong spacing. They only work for the rails which they sell which are different. So, if you are using vector rails, don't buy these. The busboards are still cool)

If you decide to go for the flying bus cable

build notes:

Each 3U (height of one eurorack space) is approximately 5.25" (133.35mm) but the modules are mostly less than 130mm tall. so you can build the height of a 3U rack so the the interior dimension from wood to wood is 5 1/4" exactly and you'll be fine.

Don't cut wood until you have your rails and spacers or at least rails and a blank panel or module installed so that you will know the exact width you will need for the rails.

Be aware of the depth of your modules and factor the space for the power supply and busboard. don't make the case too shallow or some modules may not fit. Modulargrid is your friend for this and the power draw.

There will be wall level voltage inside your case, so make sure you route those cables neat and secure them well. Cover them if possible and don't let stray screws and stuff fall in there. If they do, power off and get them out. Use blank panels to cover unused spaces. Obviously power off and unplug when installing modules.

If it's useful, I too just got started, and built a similar drone. When it came to charging, I had to read a ton of stuff. Here's what I did (all non-referral Amazon links. you may find cheaper on banggood if you want to wait forever):

ISDT Charger

12v Power Supply

Balance Charger

To connect these up, it may be useful to have some extra XT60 plugs since the power supply won't have XT60, and neither does the balance charger.

With these optional parts, I was able to make a nice looking (and more safe) charger from the power supply, along with a 3d print available here


Voltmeter

Power plug

I found this to be a pretty fun project, and wasn't as expensive as some options I saw on HobbyKing or everywhere else. To be fair, it wasn't the cheapest option either.

https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-Female-Socket-5-Pin-Connector/dp/B00EZK8ZP8

This ones: https://www.amazon.de/Brennenstuhl-Funkschalt-Set-Funksteckdosen-Innenbereich-Kindersicherung/dp/B001AX8QUM/ref=sr_1_49?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&keywords=brennstuhl+funk+steckdosen&qid=1570029553&sr=8-49


They are pretty easy to work with

Before using those TPLink things, which are $35 per outlet, if you have HomeAssistant installed on a Raspberry Pi you can use the cheaper 433mhz remote controlled plugs + a radio for the Pi.

Here's a set of 3 plugs that I bought.
(Here is similar on amazon.ca, which probably will work)

and here's a radio (I've heard that the cheaper ones work less well, and you should find a "superheterodyne" one, which I can't find on amazon.ca -- maybe aliexpress or ebay if you can wait?)

and the rpi-rf home assistant configuration:
https://home-assistant.io/components/switch.rpi_rf/

Your suggested more expensive switch can probably be polled to see if they're on or off, and probably confirms a state change. This solution the communication is one way and hope-it-works. My experience is it is working most of the time - there is the occasional missed command.

So a couple of follow-up questions, if you don't mind.

 

> Iris keyboard can have rgb led strips added and has break out pins to solder to for them

Is this for backlighting or individual key lighting? I was entertaining the idea of both. Is there anyway to individually control the color of switch LEDs?

 

> You need a 24 pin dip socket

I'm noticing that these sockets come in varying widths, something like this?

Power Switch - in case anyone else wants one.

Actually, the parts are pretty standard, so it doesn't really matter where you buy from.

I bought them from various sources (electronics markets, amazon, and some local shops), so my links are just to be seen as examples:

• PSU Switching Power Supply 400W 12V 33A for 3D Printer Kits 115V/230V S-400-12 (got mine locally for 20€)
  
• MOSFET BIQU Heat Bed Power Module Expansion Hot Bed MOS Tube for 3D Printer or alternatively TriGorilla 3D Printer Heating Controller MKS MOSFET for Heatbed Extruder MOS Module (this one is huge, but powerful)
  
• Power socket & switch https://www.amazon.com/URBEST-Module-Switch-Certification-Socket/dp/B00ME5YAPK - here any 10A 250V 3 Pin IEC320 C14 type will do
  
• T-Belt RepRap Champion 5 Meter 6mm Width GT2 Timing Belt for Reprap Delta 3D Printer Kossel Rostock
  
• Pulleys BIQU GT2 20Teeth 3mm Bore Aluminum Timing Belt Idler Pulley for 3D Printer 6mm Width Timing Belt (Pack of 5pcs)
  
• Bushings 3D Printer Solid Polymer LM8UU Bearing 8mm shaft - Igus Drylin RJ4JP-01-08 for Anet A8 Prusa i3 3D Printer RepRap (warning: you need 8 pcs of these bushings. Couldn't find any listed offer with 8)
  
• Borosilicate Glass Signstek 3D Printer MK2 MK3 Heated Bed Tempered Borosilicate Glass Plate 2132003mm
  
  Printed upgrades:
  
  
• Z-Endstop for 3mm Glass
  
• Improved Fan duct or Fan duct for Anet A6 because my original fell out and killed a print as well as the fan mounting plate
  
• PSU cover
  
• Y-Belt holder
  
• Table nut and cover spring
  
• Anet A6 Dual Mosfet Holder (works only for the small MOSFETs)
  
• Z-axis calibration spacer (not really necessary but nice to have) - print two
  
  There is one small error in the assembly videos: The bed mounting plate (the H-shaped thing) is mounted upside down in the video. The bar that goes across the axes and connects both outer plates should be under the plates, not above as in the assembly videos.
  

Just a chopped up power strip wired to switch with a fuse on the inside. Then the Pi, monitor, and speakers plug into the strip.

Here's the switch I used: http://www.amazon.com/URBEST%C2%AEInlet-Module-Switch-Socket-IEC320/dp/B00ME5YAPK/ref=pd_bxgy_147_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1J71V15ZGET9SM4S253H

Well, I kind of, uh, fried one of the pin connectors with the multimeter. Guess I should have been more careful. Doesn't look like the trace was damaged but the pin is toast. Any idea where I could get one of those pin connectors from?

Edit: Found this: https://www.amazon.com/460-PCS-Sets-JST-2-54mm/dp/B0731NHS9R/ref=sr_1_5?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1523120566&sr=1-5&keywords=jst+housing&dpID=51kRGcxjL5L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Just in case anyone else accidentally fries their JST connector

Good idea, and I had actually already picked some of those jumper wires based on another post someone had made. For anyone playing with a raspi, they are great things to have around. These are the ones I ordered:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GD2BWPY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Unfortunately, the width of the female connectors is just slightly too large for me to fit 4 of these connectors side-by-side.

However, since the pins are ordered [L G G R] I was able to connect the jumpers to the L pin and the G pin next to the R pin, allowing me to confirm the speaker output terminals will work, but I'm thinking I need that specific 4-pin plug in order to connect all 4 wires w/o soldering directly to the pins (or I need to find some jumper wires with thinner connectors).

I have purchased this package of connectors from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0731MZCGF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It's more than I wanted to pay for just a couple of connectors, but if they work, it might be handy to have them around for future projects. However, I also need to get the appropriate pin crimper once I confirm these are the right size for the connector on the board. And if they won't work, Amazon has free return shipping, so I'll just send them back.

Thanks everyone, I found this:

https://www.amazon.com/Pieces-JST-PHR-Connector-Female-Header/dp/B0731MZCGF

Looks like it has crimp versions of both male & female 2, 3 & 4 pin connections.

firstly, most newer phones (especially ones from android6 and up) comes with encrypted storage, so even if you desolder memory chip and read its content there is a possibility that you wont get anything out of it, you also gonna need to buy some tools to desolder said chip and read it and its gonna cost you quite a bit too, so i just trying to warn you that it could require you to spend some money, for example tools like hot air station and reader like https://www.amazon.com/BGA529-USB-KMR210008M-A805-Chip-off-Recovery-Programming/dp/B06XC3C3XK, cant say for sure for you phone, haven't really done a lot of repairs on motorolas, and you still could end up without anything you wanted :(

you could try calling around, some shops do these type of stuff, it might be more time efficient than ordering tools, googling, etc.

> Did someone do this before and that's how we ended up with Trump and Brexit?

cant say for sure :D

Use XT60 connectors like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N75X4Q0?psc=1
And wide gauge (and softer) cable like this: https://www.amazon.com/12-Gauge-Silicone-Wire-Feet/dp/B0070RZXLW

It would help to know the current draw of your LED bank... You can cross check the cable gauge with charts like this

Are the sockets pretty standard? Like can I just get a kit of the common ones somewhere or do you need specific ones for certain chips?

like this?

Thanks! I will have a look at them in case my current plan fails.
I now bought Brennenstuhl RCS 1000 N plugs, you get 3 plugs for less than 20 EUR:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B001AX8QUM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


They are not controllable with WiFi or an app but with a 433Mhz transmitter on an Arduino or Raspberry. I use it together with a NodeMCU ESP8266 module which acts as my controlserver using the ESPiLight (https://github.com/puuu/ESPiLight) library. The library is based on PiLight.
The webserver on the NodeMCU accepts certain URL's and sends the 433Mhz signal to turn them ON or OFF.
e.g. a call to http://192.168.0.115/control?device=Outlet01&state=off turns Outlet #1 off

Range of my cheap transmitter is about 10m and it works through walls, there are also some with more range.


Total cost of this setup was about 25 EUR:

• Brennenstuhl RCS 1000 N plugs - 19 EUR
  
  
• NodeMCU Module - 4 EUR
  
  
• 433Mhz Transmitter and Receiver - 2 EUR

Thanks! The screw parts are literally just small machine screws that I picked up from the hardware store.

The other ones on the thrusters, chest, and legs are actually IC socket pins that i ordered from amazon http://www.amazon.com/Gino-2-54mm-Socket-Solder-Adaptors/dp/B0079SM1LW/ref=pd_bxgy_e_text_z

You just cut away the plastic pieces and use the pins.

I'm guessing that the wiring diagrams you're finding are for a double pole, double throw (dpdt) switch (or similar). It appears what you have is actually a lighted switch that's single pole, single throw...I wouldn't use it in this application.

You can get a new one on amazon for <$10 or you can get another pop-in plug at your local hardware store. Since you're dealing with mains, you should leave nothing to chance, though. I suggest going out and buying a new switch which has a wiring diagram on it. For safety's sake, get a dpdt.

mini usb jack

micro usb connector

On my pcb there are four through holes next to the 5 pins for the four ground, power, d1, d2 wires. I’ll be using 28 gauge wire. I’m at work for a few more hours, but I can edit in a pic of the pcb to show you what I’m talking about when I get home.

I ordered an A8 and I get it this Sunday. Can you give me some more detail on the 4 things you suggest upgrading?

I looked at flashing the Marlin but do I need any extra cabling to perform the flash?

Do either of these fill the prereqs for the upgrades you mention? I ordered them as they came in a package deal with the printer.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Which power supply should I order? Did I forget to mention anything? I am trying to make sure I buy all of the stuff so I am ready to build on Sunday. I am gonna get a Raspberry Pi 3 for Octoprint as I only currently have a zero W and a Pi 4 available for use.

Hi everyone! If you liked the electronics enclosure you can download the design files here -

• https://grabcad.com/library/3-4-axis-cnc-electronics-enclosure-1
  
• https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2756470
  
  And here's the part list!
  
  QUANTITY | COMPONENT NAME | LINK / COMMENT
  :---------:|----------|----------
  1 | 7I76-5I25 PLUG-N-GO KIT | http://store.mesanet.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=215
  1 | DROK LM2596 Analog Control Step-down Regulator Module | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019RKVMKU
  1 | DC Fan (120mm x 120mm x 25mm 24V) | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FBPQMXW
  1 | Mesh Dust Filter for 120mm Fan | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0A2UH0
  3 | DIN Rail | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015E4EIOK
  1 | IEC320 Inlet Power Socket | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/
  4 | KL-5056 Stepper Motor Driver - 32 bit DSP Based | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O6DC8PW
  1 | Emergency Stop Button Switch | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0094GM004
  25ft | 4 Pin Cable | www.ebay.com/itm/20M-4-Pin-5050-3528-RGB-LED-Strip-Light-Wire-Extension-Connector-Cable-Cord-Line-/282110056592?hash=item41af11d890
  1 | Antek Linear Power Supply - 500W 30V 16A Peak 25A With Passive Filters / EMI-RFI Filters and Suppressors | https://www.ebay.com/itm/PS-5N30-500W-30V-16A-Peak-25A-Stepper-Motor-Antek-Linear-Power-Supply-/371664502398?hash=item5688ee3e7e
  3 | Wall Outlets from Home Depot | Find ones you like / feel are safe enough using
  16ft | Led Strip Lights | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GJ3O0J8/
  1 | Misc. Hardware | Nuts, Bolts, Standoffs, Crimp Connectors, Spare Fuses, 2 Extra Limit Switches
  2 | Ogrmar SSR-25 DA Solid State Relay with Heat Sink | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074FT4VXB/
  1 | 18 AWG Gauge Stranded Hook-Up Wire Kit | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N51OO7Q
  ~30pc | Heat Shrink Tubing | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OZSL8UE
  1 | Shop-Vac | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EPH63K0
  7 | Uxcel 16mm Thread 4-Pin Panel Mount Wire Connector | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016FCZ5SS
  2 | 8 Circuit 20A Terminal Block | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S5Q2VS
  
  Best of luck! Feel free to PM me or comment with any questions or feedback!

As a fellow Mac user, who also has a prusa mendel; I would highly recommend you use OctoPrint + a Raspberry Pi 3. This may not be a just starting out configuration but it makes life a lot easier in controlling the printer.

I use Slic3r for Mac configured to talk to the OctoPrint server through an API call, and I can send gcode to my printer across the network from the Slic3r application. With the RPi camera installed I can keep an eye on my prints without having to be in the same room.

Also you may be happier with:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This PSU is a bit cheaper than your standard ATX PSU, it may be a good choice if you're looking to try this hobby out as cheaply as possible. It is a more difficult way of going because you will need to print something like:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:199089

To keep live 120VAC from being exposed on your bench.

Path of least resistance to getting started:

Slic3r > Repetier Host or PronterFace or Cura > Printer

The best way I've found (easiest):

Slic3r > OctoPrint

Seeing as I have the same printer and host OS configuration, feel free to DM me and I'll answer any questions you may have.

PSU: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Fused Switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Mosfet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The PSU has a built-in fan that kicks on and off when the PSU gets warm. I don't plan on printing things with any crazy high temperatures, so these upgrades were probably a bit overkill, but I'd rather have components that are a bit more trustworthy than what comes with a $150 kit.

Sure no problem. You can probably find them a tad cheaper on ebay but I got them from Amazon. You might be able to use the Jamma harness you have already if it didn't melt. But I'd just a buy a new one. If you need help wiring up after you get the stuff let me know. I'll snap few more pics of how I go it wired up.

Power Supply

Jamma Harness

Module Plug